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Trek 6000 Review

March 28, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• The Trek 6000 is a great budget mountain bike that offers features that punch above it’s price.
• It is built on a sturdy aluminum frame with forged dropouts w/ rack/fender mounts.
• The Trek 6000 went out of production after 2012, but you can still find a good used one.
• For a modern alternative to the Trek 6000, check out the Trek Marlin 4 .

This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

‍ If you’re looking for an affordable mountain bike, there are dozens of options to choose from. This review will help you decide if the Trek 6000 is for you.

Overall, the Trek 6000 mountain bike is a solid, affordable choice if you need a general-use bike for casual riding or commuting. It has a lot of features you’ll find in higher-end mountain bikes like disc brakes and a suspension fork. It definitely isn’t designed for hardcore riding though.

I’ve ridden hardtail mountain bikes my entire life, and my first bike was a budget model from Trek. For this review I’ve dug into all the specs, components, and details on this bike to give you the information you need.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

‍ Trek 6000 Performance

If you’re looking for a capable all-around bike that’s equally happy on your commute, neighborhood bike paths, and flowy singletrack trails, the Trek 6000 is a great choice.

This isn’t an all-out trail shredding machine by any means, but it is plenty capable for most recreational riders wanting to get out on some singletrack and have fun. And it still maintains plenty of practicality for everyday use.

If you are planning to tackle highly technical, rocky descents, you’ll probably be better served by a more aggressive bike. With it’s fairly traditional geometry, 26 inch wheels, and limited suspension travel, the Trek 6000 just isn’t cut out for hardcore riding.

On steep, rough trails, you’ll pretty quickly find yourself out of your element and clinging on for dear life.

Where this bike shines, though, is on gentler, flowy singletrack. The cross-country-oriented geometry, small wheels, and hardtail handling make this bike feel very playful and responsive on smoother trails.

The Shimano 3x10 drivetrain gets you plenty of low gear range, especially when you take the 26” wheels into consideration. The lowest gear gives you a 24-tooth chainring in the front to a 36-tooth cog in the back, which is great for winching your way up steep hills.

This bike is also fairly lightweight for an entry-level bike, and it’s cross-country geometry puts you in a very efficient climbing position.

The smaller 26-inch wheels on the Trek 6000 may not roll over obstacles as well as bigger 29-inch wheels, but they do make this bike feel very maneuverable when climbing.

If you’re looking for an older entry-level mountain bike like this, you probably are wanting something versatile that can be your only bike for everything. I commute to work every day on my hardtail mountain bike, so I’ll be the first to tell you that you can definitely use a mountain bike for more than trails.

The Trek 6000 is a perfectly capable bike for commuting or just cruising around town. It has built-in fender mounts and mounting points for a rack to carry your gear.

Trek 6000 Frame and Geometry

The Trek 6000 mountain bike is built around a fairly basic, but well-made alluminum frame.

This frame has plenty of modern features built-in like a formed top tube, monostay seatstay, forged dropouts w/ rack mounts, a threaded bottom bracket shell, and disc brake post mounts.

Specs and Components

The Trek 6000 comes equipped with a Shimano Deore drivetrain with a triple chainring up front and a 10-speed cassette in the back. This drivetrain has plenty of range for everything from cruising on the road to winching your way up technical climbs.

The Shimano Deore XT m780 Shadow rear derailleur offers very smooth and crisp shifting performance. This is a reliable drivetrain that you can rely on to get your power to the ground no matter the conditions.

As a hardtail, the Trek 6000 has no rear suspension. This makes it much more efficient for pedaling uphill or on flat sections, but also means you’ll feel more trail chatter than a full suspension bike.

In the front you get a Suntour XCR-RL coil spring suspension fork with a remote lockout. The 100mm of travel isn’t a ton, but for the type of riding you’ll do with this bike, it’s more than enough.

This fork isn’t the lightest weight on the market, but it offers surprisingly good performance for a budget fork. It is smooth throughout it’s travel and does a good job at smoothing out rocks and roots in the trail.

The remote lockout is an awesome feature that lets you quickly switch between modes for variable riding.

This bike comes equipped with Shimano m446 hydraulic disc brakes that provide ample stopping power and decent modulation. It’s really awesome to see Trek packing in performance-oriented components like this at an entry-level price.

Brakes are definitely an undervalued component of any bicycle, but they are massively important for riding, especially on trails. Having powerful brakes will give you more confidence and control to ride faster on the descents.

If you are coming from mechanical disc brakes or rim brakes, you’ll be blown away by how much better these hydraulic brakes are.

The Trek 6000 rides on a pair of Bontrager hubs laced to Shimano M435 alloy hubs. Overall this wheelset is about what you’d expect in an older budget bike. These wheels are plenty sturdy, but a bit on the heavy side.

The biggest thing to note here is that you’re stuck with old-school 26-inch wheels. The mountain bike industry as a whole has shifted to 29-inch or 27.5-inch wheels, so this bicycle is definitely showing it’s age here.

For casual riding, the smaller wheels won’t be a problem, but 29-inch wheels definitely are smoother and faster on the trail.

Those 26-inch wheels are wrapped with some pretty basic Bontrager XR1 wire bead tires in a 2.2-inch width. These should be adequate for most casual trail riding, but you may find yourself short on grip through loose sections of trail.

Other Components

Other component highlights include the Bontrager race lite step and grips, the surprisingly comfortable saddle, and the low rise handlebar that puts you in a great balanced position.

Overall, this is a quite comfortable bike for all sorts of riding.

Competition for the Trek 6000

The Trek 6000 is no longer in production, so you may be interested in looking at some more modern alternatives that are still available on the market. Here are a few bikes that are pretty comparable to the Trek 6000.

Trek 6000 vs Trek Marlin 4

The Trek Marlin 4 is probably the most similar ride you’ll be able to find to the Trek 6000. It has a Shimano 3x drivetrain, a Suntour suspension fork, and a basic but fairly lightweight aluminum frame

The Trek 6000 actually has some advantages over the Marlin 4, which only has a 7-speed cassette and mechanical disc brakes.

Where the Marlin 4 shows it’s advantage is in the more modern wheel size choices. You can get either 27.5 or 29-inch wheels, which makes for a much smoother more capable ride overall.

With the Marlin 4, Trek has started following the trend of matching wheel size to frame size. On the smaller sizes you get 27.5-inch wheels, while larger sizes are equipped with 29ers.

Trek 6000 vs Canyon Grand Canyon

Canyon is a modern direct-to-consumer manufacturer that uses their business model to offer capable bikes at impressively low prices. The Grand Canyon is their entry-level mountain bike model that packs in an impressive range of performance and features at a low price.

If you’re looking for a capable modern mountain bike on a budget, the Canyon Grand Canyon may offer the best price-to-performance ratio on the market. Seriously, it’s incredible that they were able to deliver so much at this price.

The Grand Canyon has fairly aggressive modern geometry with a slack head tube angle and steep seat tube angle. It will definitely feel much more confident on trails than the Trek 6000.

You also get a very well-spec’d component selection. You get Shimano MT200 hydraulic disc brakes for fantastic stopping power, a smooth-shifting Shimano 12-speed drivetrain, a Suntour XCR coil suspension fork, and larger wheel sizes for smooth-rolling performance.

Trek 6000 vs Specialized Rockhopper Sport 29

The Rockhopper is Specialized’s entry-level hardtail mountain bike, and it’s one of the most popular mountain bikes out there.

The Specialized Rockhopper Sport 29 is the second lowest bike in the Rockhopper range. It has a Microshift 2 by 9 speed drivetrain, a Suntour XCM coil suspension fork, Shimano MT200 hydraulic disc brakes, and an aluminum frame with cross-country-inspired geometry.

Overall, you can expect fairly similar performance from the Specialized Rockhopper Sport 29 and the Trek 6000. The big difference again is going to be in wheel size. There is a reason you don’t see modern mountain bikes with 26-inch wheels.

Just having the larger wheels makes the Specialized Rockhopper feel more fun and capable on most trail riding. It rolls faster and smoother and is easier to keep in control.

Where to Buy the Trek 6000

Unfortunately, the Trek 6000 went out of production in 2012, so it is no longer available from Trek. You can still find a good used one near you or online. BikeExchange is a great online marketplace where you can shop for used bikes.

Bicycle Blue Book lists the fair value of the 2012 model of the Trek 6000 at around $300, so there are definitely good deals to be had. If you can find one used, you’ll be getting a lot of bike for your money.

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About THE AUTHOR

Jakob Thygerson

I love mountain biking and live in Salt Lake City: a central hub for the MTB community. I started biking four years ago when a series of injuries put me out of commission for trail running. While biking started as cross-training, I fell in love with the sport. I mainly enjoy using my bike as a tool for exploration, I've done 50-mile all-day epic rides in the mountains and have been to some amazing places on my bike.

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Size / 15.5", 17.5", 19.5", 21.5"

At a glance

Where to buy.

Specifications

• Frame Alpha Black Aluminum w/externally relieved head tube, hydroformed bi-axial down tube and top tube, monostay seat stays, forged disc ready dropouts
• Wheels Shimano M495 disc hubs; Bontrager Ranger rims
• Wheel Size 26"
• Tires Bontrager Jones XR, 26x2.2/2.25"; 27 tpi
• Crank Shimano Alivio 42/32/22
• Front Derailleur Shimano Alivio
• Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore
• Shifters Shimano Deore, 9 speed
• Brakeset Shimano M485, hydraulic disc; 180mm front, 160mm rear rotor
• Handlebar Bontrager Crowbar Sport, 25mm rise
• Saddle Bontrager Race Basic
• Seatpost Bontrager Sport
• Stem Bontrager Sport, 10 degree
• Headset Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed

Q: Where to buy a 2008 Trek 6000?

The 2008 Trek 6000 may be purchased directly from Trek .

Q: What size wheels does the 2008 Trek 6000 have?

The 2008 Trek 6000 has 26" wheels.

Q: What size 2008 Trek 6000 should I get?

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About MTB Database

Explore, search and compare thousands of the world’s best mountain bikes here on Mountain Bike Database.

Compare prices, components, suspension, reviews, images and more on current and past MTB’s. You can even share reviews, comments and questions on mountain bikes. View and compare a huge selection of bikes from brands such as Trek , Specialized , Giant , Santa Cruz , Norco and more .

We strive to provide accurate and up-to-date information for mountain bikes on MTB Database. If you’ve spotted any issues, please let us know . We also include helpful tools, such as our frame size calculator, to assist you in choosing the right mountain bike. Bear in mind that these tools serve as a guide and simply provide a general indication. Refer to information provided by your bike manufacturer for the most applicable information for your bike.

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Vintage Trek Catalogs

Table of Contents

Here you can find all the Trek catalogs from 1976 up to 1999. If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you can find them further in the article.

Trek Catalogs

• Trek Catalog 1976
• Trek Catalog 1977
• Trek Catalog 1978
• Trek Catalog 1979
• Trek Catalog 1980
• Trek Catalog 1981
• Trek Catalog 1982
• Trek Catalog 1983-1
• Trek Catalog 1983-2
• Trek Catalog 1984
• Trek Catalog 1985All-Terrain
• Trek Catalog 1985Trek2000
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekRacing
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekSport
• Trek Catalog 1985TrekTouring
• Trek Catalog 1986
• Trek Catalog 1987
• Trek Catalog 1988
• Trek Catalog 1989
• Trek Catalog 1990
• Trek Catalog 1991
• Trek Catalog 1992
• Trek Catalog 1993
• Trek Catalog 1994
• Trek Catalog 1995
• Trek Catalog 1996
• Trek Catalog 1997
• Trek Catalog 1998
• Trek Catalog 1999

History and Iconic Models

Trek started out in 1975 by providing only frames. In 1976 they would supply entire bicycles.

For many people Trek is most famous for sponsoring Lance Armstrong’s U.S. Postal team during the late 90’s up to his retirement.

But Trek already pioneered the use of carbon fiber in 1989 with the Trek 5000.

It would result in the short-lived but daring design of the Y-Foil, introduced in 1998. One of the few bikes that is designated with something more than just a number.

They were also early adopters of the mountain bike craze, with the Trek 850 launched in 1983.

Their early foray in using carbon fiber would be later used with the introduction of the iconic Y33 and Y22 models. Mountain bikes with a monocoque carbon fiber frame. Although it used the suspension technique URT ( unified rear triangle ) which would turn out to be rubbish, the original design was considered iconic.

If you’re interested in learning more about vintage Trek bicycles, please visit vintage-trek.com .

Trek Models

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Vintage Kona Catalogs

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Vintage Giant Catalogs

Unfortunately I was only able to find a couple of Giant catalogs. Although it’s a huge bicycle brand, finding the Giant catalogs proved to be

Vintage Cannondale Catalogs

Here you can find all the Cannondale catalogs from 1983 up to 1999.  If you’re looking for a specific model for a specific year, you

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Is The Trek 6000 Mountain Bike Worth Buying? [Trek 6000 Review]

Table of Contents

Manufacturers will gradually abandon mountain bikes that are affordable while still providing good value for money.

However, as a cycling enthusiast, you are always looking for a mountain bike that fits you and is suitable for daily use.

With this comprehensive review of the Trek 6000 mountain bike, welcome to the Best Bike Select blog.

What are the Trek 6000 mountain bike’s features, as well as its advantages and disadvantages? We have detailed instructions on how to purchase a it.

Are you in a hurry? Let’s get this party started.

Features of Trek 6000 mountain bike

Stylish appearance (4.0/5).

The Trek 6000, like most men’s mountain bikes, has a dark paint job. The mystery and premium feel of Mount Grey/Gloss Black are palpable.

Gray is one of the most versatile colors, and Mount Grey is one of the few attractive grays. The frame’s exterior design is similar to that of Trek mountain bikes.

The stylish appearance of men’s mountain bikes reflects the rider’s taste.

Alpha Gold Aluminium Frame (4.0/5)

Frame composition: Alpha Gold Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, formed down tube w/integrated gusset, formed top tube, monostay seatstay, forged dropouts w/ rack & fender mounts. Smooth welded joints and sturdy special frame construction.

Can accompany the rider for quite a long time. Comfortable headtube angle, perfect for casual riders.

30 speed (4.5/5)

That’s right, the Trek 6000’s 2012-style 3 X10 gear configuration combines to create 30 different speeds.

Despite the fact that 1X mountain bikes are currently popular. An exaggerated 30 different speeds, on the other hand, is a very rare presence in any brand of mountain bike.

It increases the adaptation and learning curve, but this does not deter riders who enjoy multi-speed mountain bikes. Of course, the Trek 6000 is still a 27-speed mountain bike in 2009.

A comfortable ride is impossible to achieve without a good speed mix. You have 30 speeds at your disposal; learn the hard way.

Shock front fork (4.0/5)

The 2009 model had a RockShox Dart 3 shock fork, but the latest 6000 has an SR Suntour XCR-RL shock fork with 100mm of travel.

This is the bare minimum for trail riding, and it’s difficult to match the Trek in terms of shock absorption when compared to the 70-90mm shock forks on cheap mountain bikes.

The shock fork has enough damping effect for riding on rocky roads, but it cannot be ridden intensely for long periods of time, making it unsuitable for intermediate riders.

When the road is flat, the spring knob can be used to suspend the work of the shock fork, allowing the rider to convert the power to maximum and increase the speed of the ride.

26×2.2″ tires (4.0/5)

The Trek 6000 rides on Bontrager 26×2.2″ tires, which are narrow mountain tires with more limitations for riding in difficult terrain. It can ride smoothly and without skidding on muddy trails.

On rough surfaces, it also effectively converts riding power into tire grip.

Hydraulic disc brakes (5/5)

The brakes on the new 6000 mountain bike have been improved. The 2009 Trek 6000 still used Avid BB 5 mechanical brakes, but the new model uses advanced and popular hydraulic disc brakes that require less maintenance or are maintenance-free.

A sharp descending downhill section requires very little force to stop. More drifting maneuvers are also possible. (Because of the danger, newcomers should practice on flat roads first, then move on to mountain roads.)

Adjustable handlebar and seat height (5/5)

When riders select a suitable mountain bike, one of the more debatable points is how well the frame size and height match.

There are a lot of mountain bikes on the market that don’t have much adjustability. The Trek 6000 mountain bike has a handlebar height adjustment with a 15mm rise.

In addition, there is a 9 degree rear sweep. Adjusting the seat height necessitates the use of a tool.

Quick release front and rear wheels

Both the front and rear wheels have quick-release mechanisms for simple maintenance and adjustment at any time.

The installation will also be quite simple; if you want to update some accessories manually, you will only need basic tools to complete them.

Learn more: Is The Trek 6500 A Good Mountain Bike? [Review]

Advantages and disadvantages

• Stylish aluminum frame
• 100mm travel shock fork
• Off-road friendly tires
• Hydraulic disc brakes
• Adjustable handlebar and seat height
• Affordable price

Disadvantages

• Can’t order online

Trek 6000 mountain bike Full Specifications（2012）

• What frame sizes are available for the Trek 6000?

15.5″, 17.5″,18.5″,19.5″,21.5″.

• How much does the Trek 6000 body weigh?

Approximately 26.6 lbs.

• What body colors are available for the Trek 6000?

Trek 6000 mountain bike red is the 2009 model. The latest Trek 6000 bicycle is Paramount Grey/Gloss Black.

• Trek 6000 mountain bike price?

There are still some 2012 Trek 6000 mountain bikes available for purchase offline. The price is expected to be around $800. Depending on whether some of the features have been upgraded.

If you own a used Trek 6000 it will be valued based on the condition of the bike. 2009 Trek 6000 bicycle trade-in price is estimated to be $80.

• Is the Trek 6000 mountain bike worth buying?

The configuration, the 30-speed number, and the hydraulic disc brakes are appealing to beginners.

The integration of these components into a high-quality cross-country mountain bike. It is well worth the money if you are looking to purchase your first mountain bike.

With a comfortable ride, an off-road configuration, and the ability to use it as a commuter bike, this is not a particularly good choice for an intermediate rider.

After all, you want better technical advancements, and woodland adventures necessitate better gear. So whether it’s worthwhile to buy depends on whether you’re a casual rider.

Bicycle Comparison

Trek 820 mountain bike vs trek 6000.

Trek 820 has two types of frames, if you are a female rider, you can consider Trek 820 WSD, a frame suitable for female riding, and the Sky Blue paint is very bright.

There aren’t many differences between the Trek 820 and Trek 6000 in terms of configuration. The Trek 820 is a low-cost mountain bike that can meet the needs of commuting and low-difficulty mountain riding at a low cost.

However, if you enjoy mountain riding, the Trek 6000 is ideal. 30 speeds almost completely outperform the 21-speed configuration, and while 10 and 11 speeds are popular now, I still prefer the 30-speed Trek 6000.

Excellent maneuverability is provided by hydraulic disc brakes. There are also wider tires, which add to the difficulty of mountain riding. The 6000 is an excellent choice for improved mountain riding.

The Trek 820 is currently the hot newbie mountain bike. We have also done a full review of it, if you want to know more you can click more.

Learn more: Is The Trek 820 Mountain Bike Really Suitable For Newbies?

Trek Marlin 5 mountain bike vs Trek 6000

The Trek Marlin 5 is very similar to the Trek 6000, and it is not very expensive.

More details, such as the internal alignment, which is cleaner than the Trek 6000 and protects the cables from damage, have been optimized. The same hydraulic disc brakes, no discernible difference in braking effect.

The Trek Marlin 5’s style is enhanced by the gorgeous paint color.

Young people may dislike the dull black, and the bright colors make for a more visually appealing commuter ride.

However, the speed is limited to a 2X8 configuration, which is slightly slower than the Trek 6000. The Trek Marlin 5 is an excellent choice for anyone new to trail riding or looking for a comfortable, stable commuter with the ruggedness of a true mountain bike.

The Trek Marlin 5 is also an excellent replacement for the Trek 6000.

Schwinn High Timber VS Trek 6000

The Schwinn High Timber is one of the best options for those on a tight budget who want to get their hands on one right away, and it also comes with a good warranty.

The Schwinn High Timber is reasonably priced, but it lacks the features of the Trek 6000. 27.5-inch medium size tires are also an inexpensive tire size to replace.

The Schwinn High Timber has mechanical disc brakes front and rear, without the ease of braking with hydraulic brakes, but compared to The Schwinn High Timber is more for the casual rider, and at an affordable price, many entry-level riders like them.

For those who want to know more, we have also done a detailed review specifically for the Schwinn High Timber .

Final rating (4.5/5)

The Trek 6000 is a high-quality mountain bike from Trek that is perfect for entry-level mountain riders. If you are a new mountain rider, you are not familiar with it, but you can get a good impression of the Trek 6000 with this review. Most of the mid-range accessories combined into the Trek 6000 can be ridden in more mountainous areas. Woodlands, trails, and gravel roads all perform well. All in all the Trek 6000 is a good mountain bike and worth buying.

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• Crosscountry
• Rider Notes

2011 Trek 6000

A 26″ aluminum frame crosscountry bike with mid-range components. Compare the full range

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A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

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Last updated June 29 Not listed for 2,487 days

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Trek 1999 6000 Hardtail Bike

1999 Trek 6000, mountain bike, front suspension, Mountain Mix components, Rock Shox Jett T2, 2.5" travel fork

• USER REVIEWS

Solid frame and good paiintjob that held up over 16 years now. Good rims - never bent one yet, and I'm a big guy and abusive to bikes. Seriously, though, I've ridden this thing on the beach and in the ocean, and even salt water can't hurt that frame. It has held up well, under a lot of abuse.

Riveted chain-ring that wore out. Seats wore out and not comfortable. Good street/trail bike, but not a serious mountain bike for hard core folks. Shifters will lock up with age, as the grease turns to rock. Just spray with WD-40, lots of it. Probably not a good choice for a cruiser bike, or hard-core off road.

We bought two of these new in 1999 on the recommendation of a friend who works at a bike shop. I think they were $498.75 each (we got hosed a bit, although they retailed for $899.99 according to Bikeopedia). They worked well for 10 years, mostly street and light trail riding. I used them to commute to work along the Potomac bike trail and occasional biking in the blue ridge. Not hard core mountain biking. The shifters stopped working and I took one apart. The grease in them hardens over time and stops the mechanism from working. It is an intricate clockwork mechanism and if you take it apart, springs will fly everywhere. I'll save you a lot of time - there is a small hole in the case, just put WD-40 into it (a LOT) until it softens the grease, and it will shift fine after that. Once I figured this out with the first shifter, fixing the the other three was easy - just keep spraying WD-40. Like a whole can of it. The grease hardens into rock, I had to replace the front chainring on mine when the teeth wore out. I realized this is a cheap bike at that point, as the chainrings are rivieted together. I ended up buying a whole new chainring and crankset, as after 12 years, the cranks were welded to the shaft, and the parts were cheap on eBay. I also bought new chains for both bikes, and new pedals. The orginal plastic toe clips were crap. No rear cassette - yet, but after 15 years, the teeth are starting to round on mine. Derailleurs have held up well! The seats finally died (literally broke off) and I replaced them with a neoprene gel set (BIkemanforU) - not too cushy, but firm. Works better than new. Also replaced shifter cables (they started to come apart from rust), tires and tubes (the latter many times). The wheels have held up really well - no bends or wobbles, which is amazing given the abuse I've handed to them. I removed the presta valves and drilled them out for schrader. Who am I kidding? I'm a paved trail rider and want to be able to use the local gas station air hose. I just don't get the point of having exotic tire valves on a bike like this. A good bike for the commuter or causal trail rider. The handlebar position is uncomfortable for those looking for more of a "cruiser" kind of bike, though. It has held up well, though! 16 years! I kind of would hate to buy a new bike, as I think I would be disappointed in the quality of bikes these days.

Built to last, good components, low maintenance and a pleasure to ride.

Nothing to mention.

I bought this bike brand new in 1999. At the time I lived in Dallas, TX, which has a fairly good variety of paved and off-road biking trails around the metro. I rode this bike almost every day for years. In the evenings I would ride on the roads around my neighborhood or on one of the many paved biking trails. Generally on Saturdays I would venture off for a 15 or 20-mile ride on one of the many off-road trails, some of which were somewhat technical and likely above my skill level but I'm confident the bike could have handled the challenge if only I were able (or willing). Overall I rode between 75 and 150 miles per week. Sundays were dedicated to my road bike but the rest of the week I generally rode my Trek 6000. Around 2002 I moved to the North side of the Kansas City metro area where biking trails are almost non-existent. After a couple years of riding through the neighborhoods I finally lost interest and put my bikes in storage for almost 8-years. We have since moved to an area South of the KC metro where access to bike trails is much more convenient so I have started riding again almost every evening. Getting on this Trek again feels like reuniting with a long lost friend. With exception to one of the shifters giving me a little problem, the bike looks great (except for a few well-deserved scratches) and rides like the day I bought it. I recently took this bike to the local Trek shop for some basic maintenance and a tire swap. When I walked through the door the mechanic commented when he seen the bike. He said the 6000 was a great bike and value-for-money, probably one of the best bikes Trek made. This bike is nearly perfect for normal all-around riding and you'll find nothing better at this price range - as I'm sure you can get these for a steal today. If you're wanting to do some serious mountain biking or puting on a lot of road miles then I would suggest looking at something designed specifically for that purpose.

withstands almost anything that you can dish out to it.

when I bought the bike it had a faulty valve in it.

This bike is great for going in a trail in the forest or up in the mountains. my favorite place to go with it is the Barr trail. It was totally up for the challenge. I am taking it back to Colorado in a few weeks and I am going to do some tougher trails.

Gears, Components, braking, fork, frame

high speed handling, the steering can sometimes have a mind of its own if you hit a really big obstacle (root/rock)

I love this bike! I have abused it worse then anyone else probably has, often riding down steep hills at around 35MPH on sidewalks in my suburban area. The shocks work great, and this bike can handle anything. I have only gotten one flat, and have put about 1500 very hard miles on it and the tires are still in good shape, in addition to the brakes. Front brakes are slightly more worn then back brakes, but both work great. I have done a lot of hard stops with the front brakes, since I am into doing front wheelies, and still have almost a year left on the pads. The biuld quality is excellent, with all name-brand components. The alumninum frame is surprisingly light and gives a fairly good ride on the rear end. The bike handles well, but not great. Upwards of 25MPH if your going to do a quick turn be ready to wrench the handle bars and pray, high speed handling isnt great. However, the handling isn't great, but for some unknown weird reason this bike is funner to drive then any other hardtail Ive ever been on. The handling is tight, and its very easy to lean into curves or do fast slaloms. In Addition, I love the wide gearing especially for such an old bike.

Similar Products Used:

another hardtail from specialized

Can withstand a lot of abuse. Shifters and rear deurailler are awesome. No problems with brakes.

MAD chainsuck, caused by a crappy front deurailler and the crankset.

For 550 bucks, I must say that I am totally satisfied with this bike. I can ride it for hours on end and it holds up to any abuse I can dish out on it. If you already know that you are really into off-road riding, you may as well spend more money for a better bike, but if you are just starting out in the sport (like I was when I bought the 6000), then this is definitely a good place to start. You can pretty much take it on any cross-country trails you can think of, and you can ride it nice and hard too.

*frame *rear derailleur *lightness *rear cassette *rapid fire shifters *bontrager jones tires

*bottom bracket *rock shox jett t2 *grips (when wet) *pedals *rear part is a little heavy *crank

I like the frame, and I think that any beginner who wants to start mountain biking should consider the Trek 6000. I have a lot of fun with this bike, but I had to replace the bottome bracket and the crank because I bent them both. I only weigh 150, but I was doing some big drops for a xc bike. I will soon replace the front suspension.

Norco Charger Rocky Mountain Vertex Trek 6500 Trek 7000

i like the pretty red it goes well with my biking shorts the seat smells good also

the smell of the seat after my little sis rides it the tires are to big and the seat is to big id like a bigger rear deraleur and stem to heavy but i still managed to win nationals (thanks mom!!)

if u want to be like me buy it and email me i need friends those chilis look more like flammin cocks to me but thats just me

ccm heat mbx 1000 and all kinds of 100 dollar bikes

Great Price Shocks are amazing for $520 Alluminum frame is super light for trails

rear der grips

Great bike, and great price at $520! The 2k Trek 6000 is great for off-roading and ok for on-road. The shifting is smooth. Only extra thing you need is some new grips. The frame is super light too. The shocks (Manitou Magnum) are really soft and great for off-roading! GREAT BIKE!!!!!!

GT Cannondale

Great price, LX Rear Derailer, good no name brakes, Bontrager wheels and tires. TOUGH BIKE!

This bike falls down a lot. Honest, it's not my fault.

This is one tough bike. I've only been riding for about a month now and this bike has taken the worst falls, endos and other punishmnet I've dished out. I'm very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone on a budget or as a starter bike.

Gary Fisher Tassajara Schwinn Mesa GSX

Great, Lightweight bike. Nice change from the Roc Shock to the Manitou this year.

Standard toe clips - are a deathtrap. Take them off! Brakes squeal like a pig. Rapid Fire and rear LX derailer are a little quirky - Seat is a little hard on the posterior.

I would recommend this bike- highly. I love it. Mind you, I've had it for a week only. Sure, it has its quirks - but what bike doesn't? I did a hell of a lot of research. This is a nice bike for an intermediate rider who doesn't want to break the bank. I paid $509. If you're in Tidewater VA - check out Mike @ East Coast. Going from a rigid Schwinn (pre shocks), it's like an Escort to a Cadilac! Trek has done a good job. And I had been warned to stay away from the conglomerants (Kelin Fisher Trek, et. al.) And, I too have taken a few spills - although I blame it on going from a 12 year old, 73lb, cro-mo Schwinn to a new Aluminum.

Schwinn Mesa Specialized Higher end Treks Gary Fisher GT

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Trek Vintage Bicycles

Whether you're into riding to work or cycling along mountain trails or around your neighborhood, a bicycle can be a useful mode of travel. These Trek vintage bicycles come in an array of frame sizes, ranging from 18 inches to 24 inches. These trek bicycles were manufactured primarily in the 1980s, although some models were made in the 1990s and 2000s.

• Mountain bike: This is a type of vintage bicycle that is designed for off-road riding along mountain trails or on any type of unpaved road. They consist of large wheels and heavy frames as well as cross-wise handlebars. The gear ratios available with mountain bikes extend from low ratios to high ratios, as you can find single-speed bikes as well as ones with 16 speeds or more.
• Road bike - racing: This type of bicycle is designed for road racing in competitions. They are comprised of light frames and narrow wheels as well as drop handlebars. These vintage bicycles are designed in a way that positions the front and back wheel close to one another.
• Road bike - touring: This is a type of bicycle that is meant for any kind of lengthy travel on the road. They consist of relatively heavy frames and wide wheels.
• Steel: This is a hard metal that oftentimes comes in a gray or bluish-gray color and is comprised of both carbon and iron. It is known as an alloy, which is a combination of at least two metals, and is available in a variety of different types that range from low-background steel and stainless steel to long steel.
• Aluminum: This is a light metal that comes in a silvery-gray color and is typically combined with several other metals such as magnesium in order to create an aluminum alloy. This alloy is then used in the creation of Trek bicycle frames.
• Composite: This involves any type of material that is made from at least two other materials with vastly different chemical or physical properties. When combined, these distinctly different materials lead to the creation of a material that is comprised of characteristics that are unique to the ones found with the initial materials. The composite materials used for the manufacturing of bikes typically consist of carbon fiber.

These vintage bicycles by Trek are available in a wide range of colors, the most prominent of which are red and blue. Some extra color options that you can select include black, gold, green, silver, and yellow. A small selection of these cycles come in multiple colors with combinations like black and yellow, and blue and white.

Table 2 - TUBING TENSILE STRENGTH AND YIELD STRENGTH*

* Most of the information in Tables 1 and 2 was extracted from Jalon Hawk's DesperadoCycles.com web site. Included at his site is Jalon's excellent write up of the geometry and physical properties of the various tubings and what it all means.

** Tubeset weight is not consistent among tubing manufacturers. The length of some of the tubes in a set is different between makers as is the length of butted sections. As a result, the total tubeset weights are not indicative of the relative weight of the resulting bike.

HELICOMATIC HUBS

Trek used Maillard Helicomatic rear hubs on some road bike Models in the mid 80s. They were a clever French innovation using a special cassette (of cogs) that mounts onto a special hub. Great idea, but poorly engineered and tested; they proved to be unreliable. For more information, see Sheldon Brown's comments at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#helicomatic and at The Yellow Jersey http://www.yellowjersey.org/helico.html .

What to do if you have one on your Trek and it no longer works, or you want a more reliable setup? People often replace the Helicomatic hub/wheel with a freewheel wheel or freehub wheel. If they are concerned about originality, they keep their original wheel and work to find a replacement for the hub or cassette. They show up occasionally on Ebay.com.

Vintage Trek bikes were originally painted with DuPont Imron paint. Imron is a two part paint that is difficult to use by other than professional painters. Imron is still available from DuPont. Some frame painters still use it today. However, some localities have clean air regulations that prohibit its use.

Classic Rendezvous provides a list of expert bike frame painters and refinishers. Desperado Cycles uses Imron as do Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing , Rad Finishes and Spectrum Cycles . If you know of other painters who do, please let me know .

Many of the Imron colors used by Trek are still available. Trek generally used the same Imron color name as did DuPont, so it often is possible to match the original color. The Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing web site has a PDF copy of the Imron color chart on its site.

For many years, Trek had a service to repaint an old Trek for an owner or bike shop. It would not reproduce the original colors and graphics, but used the then current year graphics and colors. This way, a bike might have been made in one year but have paint and graphics from a later year. The repaint service was discontinued around 2010.

TREK DECALS

One source of reproduction Trek decals is VeloCals.com . Here are examples of reproduction Trek graphics made by VeloCals . You can contact JR Anderson of VeloCals at [email protected] .

PAINT TOUCH UP

Because the paint used on Vintage Treks, Imron, is a two-part paint, it is difficult to use for touchup. Many serious bike collectors use Testor's paint. It comes in little bottles and spray cans. It is used for car and airplane models and can be found at hobby shops in lots of colors. If you can't find a match, mix a couple of colors together.

Richard Kaufman writes: "Testor's "Model Master" Enamel Paint in FRENCH BLUE is a virtual match for the Dupont Imron "Race Blue" on my '85 Trek 600. No mixing with other colors required, in my opinion."

Car paint touch up paint also works fine. Get it at a car parts store or car dealer. The bottle comes with its own paintbrush. Color matching can take a bit of work, you may need to mix two or more bottles.

Others have had good luck with fingernail polish, red bikes are especially good for this but, depending on the latest fashion, other colors work as well.

Another option is take the bike to a specialty shop that sells auto paints (not just an auto body shop). They will scan the paint on the bike and mix a perfect match. They can give you the paint in a jar or can put it in a spray bottle. It is a bit pricey; on the order of $60.

THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY

Trek ran the rear derailleur cable through the right chainstay for most of their steel road bikes beginning in 1985 and ending in 1989. A clever idea - that has its supporters and detractors. However, cleverness is also required when replacing the cable. Rich Tong's "Tong Family Blog" lists some helpful methods.

INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME

Unlike some other frame materials, a steel frame does not degrade through normal use or simply through age. However, if a steel bike is ridden in the rain or is kept outdoors, rust on the inside surfaces of the frame tubing can be a problem. A way to check if your frame has been damaged by rust is to remove the bottom bracket and look at the bottom bracket shell and the tubes. Some rust is normal, but lots of rust or significant pitting can be a problem.

To prevent, or significantly reduce, internal rusting, people spray the inside of the tubes with a rust preventative. Two excellent products are "Frame Saver" by J. Peter Weigle and "Boeshield T-9" developed by Boeing. Frame Saver dries to a wax-like coating. It is available at most pro bike shops and over the web. Boeshield T-9 is a protectant and lubricant; it stays oily. Which to use? Peter Weigle is a custom frame maker (support a fellow bike guy). Boeing makes lots of great things that fly, but I believe bikes are not included . . .

People also use LPS 3, a heavy-duty rust inhibitor, which leaves a transparent waxy film. It is commonly available at hardware stores in spray cans.

A simple solution is to spray the insides with WD-40 penetrating oil. It dries to a thin, varnish-like coating that protects the metal. Not quite as good as the three products above, but much better than nothing at all. (BTW - because of this drying characteristic, WD-40 should not be used as a long-term lubricant.)

The rustproofing products above generally do not require removing the rust inside the frame tubes before applying. However, cleaning the inside of the bottom bracket and the headtube of loose rust is a good idea. To treat, remove the bottom bracket, headset and seat post. Spray into every opening in the frame, including the vent holes in the stays. Then, I like to tape over the openings and rotate the frame slowly a few times in various directions, to be sure that all internal surfaces are soaked. Remove the tape and let the excess run out. For the waxy coating types, and WD-40, it it best to allow a day or two drying time before reassembling.

CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM

Your vintage bike came with a quill stem. Can it be converted to a more modern threadless stem? NO, YES, and YES.

NO - The steerer tube on the original fork is almost certainly not long enough to use a full threadless system.

YES - A new fork which has a sufficiently long steerer tube is required. New forks typically are made for threadless stems, and have no threads on the steerer tube. One can employ a used fork from a (much) larger bike that has a sufficiently long steer tube. However, any threaded upper portion of the used fork must be cut off. In this conversion, a threadless headset will be required.

CAUTION - You should NOT attach the threadless stem to the threaded portion of a fork's steerer tube. The steerer tube may (will) break at the threads. This can result in a dramatic alteration of the rider's appearance.

YES - There is an adapter one can buy that has a quill at one end and a cylinder at the other. The quill is inserted into the steerer tube and tightened. The threadless stem is clamped onto the cylindrical end. These threadless stem adapters are available at most bike shops or on the Internet at places like performancebike.com or nashbar.com. Cost is about $20.

UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK

This is a common upgrade for people living in hilly areas. It can be done by replacing a double crank with a triple crank or by attaching a triple chainring adapter, a triplizer, to the existing double crank. Information on tripleizers (triple chainring adapters) , has been provided here by Don Gillies.

What new/used parts do you need to replace a double crank with a triple?

• Triple right crank
• L onger bottom bracket axle or new bottom bracket
• W ide range rear derailleur (either a road triple or mountain bike triple)
• Longer chain
• STI or Ergo triple front shifter or a friction shifter capable of handling a triple (most can).
• A new front derailleur may be needed if: 1. the existing one doesn't have enough range to shift to the inner and outer rings, or 2. if the chain drags on the tail of the derailleur when in the small ring.

If you want to use a small inner ring, less than 30 teeth or so, (touring over the Rockies, stump pulling or just peace of mind) and a large ring of 50 teeth or more, a new front derailleur with a long tail will probably be required. Here are some suggestions for long-tailed front derailleurs (all no longer made): Huret Duo Par, Huret Pilot, SunTour Cyclone MK II, Simplex SJA 522, Simplex SJA 102, Shimano N-600, SunTour Mountech. A Campagnolo Super Record front will work with inner rings down to about 28 teeth.

Drew Saunders has detailed information on making a double to triple conversion. http://www.stanford.edu/~dru/tripleize.html . This page also describes the use of the " tripleizer " chain ring.

A Campagnolo Nuovo or Super Record double crank arm can be converted to a triple by drilling and tapping the crank arm to accept a 74mm BCD inner chainring. It requires some precision, so don't try it with a hand drill. Various shops can do it for you, including Elliott Bay Bicycles in Seattle.

An alternative to a new bottom bracket is to add a longer axle to the existing cup and cone bottom bracket. It may not be easy to determining the length needed. See Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database for a discussion of this problem: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html . Vintage Trek road bike bottom bracket shells are the English/Japanese standard 68mm wide. Used parts can be found at bicycle swap meets, used bike shops, or on eBay.com

If you are able to find a vintage used road triple crank, you may have a challenge finding a bottom bracket or crank axle of the right length. See Sheldon Brown's site, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html , for guidance.

For a vintage Trek, a common setup is to find a used Sugino AT crankset (triple) and use a Shimano UN52 or UN72 or UN73 sealed bottom bracket with 127.5mm axle. This may require a 2mm spacer on the right bottom bracket end to provide sufficient spacing between the small ring and the chainstay. The spacer is typically available at your local bike shop.

One possible solution to the crank axle length problem is to take the crank and bike to your local bike shop. Ask them to sell you a new bottom bracket and install it for you. It is likely the will have only Shimano sealed bottom brackets to choose from. They may have to do some trial an error fitting, trying a few bottom brackets until they come up with one that works. Let them know that using a 1mm or 2mm spacer on the right side is OK.

ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING

Vintage Treks typically came with 5 or 6 or 7 rear cogs. More modern rear hubs have 8, 9 or 10 cogs. Can an old Trek be modified to have more cogs? Yes, but it does take some money and work.

First, you must decide on the number of rear gears you want. If you want more than 8 gears in the rear, it is likely you will need a new crank. A 9 speed chain will likely fall between the chainwheels. A 10 speed chain is more of a problem.

A modern Shimano road hub with 130mm spacing can take a 8, 9 or 10 speed cassette. With a commercially-available spacer, the hub can be used with a 7 speed cassette. This road hub requires 130mm rear dropout spacing (see the Spreading Rear Dropouts section below).

Campagnolo and Shimano components are generally not compatible with each other if index shifting (click shifting) is your goal. Campy or Shimano rear shifters will not work with the other's rear derailleurs or cassettes. (An exception is that 9 speed hubs/wheels can be used, imperfectly, with the other's equipment.) Cassettes of one manufacturer will not fit on the other's rear hubs. However, Campy and Shimano front shifters and derailleurs are usually compatible.

If you are going to buy new road components of a single manufacturer, the components will be compatible, if a common speed (8, 9 or 10) for the parts is specified. If you are going to use components of different years and models, there are some incompatibilities of which you should be aware. The book "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance" by Leonard Zinn contains details of these problems.

What is needed to convert from a freewheel hub (5, 6, or 7 speeds) to a cassette hub system with index shifting?

• A rear hub capable of carrying a cassette with the targeted number of gears. (This usually entails buying a new wheel.)
• A cassette with the desired number of cogs, that matches the new rear hub.
• New shifters that are made for the number of cogs on the cassette.
• Cable stops to replace the downtube shifters (if you are using integrated brake lever/shifters [AKA brifters] or barcon [bar end] shifters).
• New rear derailleur designed for index shifting. A caution - a rear derailleur designed for a lower number of cogs (e.g. 7) will shift cogs with more gears, BUT - there may not be clearance between the derailleur and the spokes.
• Front derailleur designed for index shifting. If you want to friction shift, almost any front derailleur will work.
• New chain designed for the targeted number of cogs in the cassette. A modern 8 speed chain will also work with 5, 6, or 7 speed cogs. Nine cogs require 9 speed chains; ten cogs require 10 speed chains.

If your bike has brazed-on bosses for downtube shifters, to convert from 5 or 6 speed shifters you probably can find 7 (or rarely, 8) speed Shimano indexed downtube shifters that will fit.

Many conversions use Shimano bar end (also called barcon) indexed shifters. They were available in 7 and 8 speeds (find used or NOS on eBay.com). Nine-speed barcons are still available new. Bar-end shifters avoid the expense of STI integrated brake levers/shifters and allows you to keep your current brake levers. They require replacing your downtube shifters with downtube cable stops.

A caution - some downtube clamp-on shifter bosses made for friction shifting, that may be on your lower to mid-level Trek bike, are not compatible with standard shifters that fit on brazed-on bosses. Downtube cable stops also will not fit on these nonstandard types of clamp-on bosses. Types that do not work are various Shimano ones, including Shimano 600, and many by SunTour. Old Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record clamp-on bosses work fine as do Shimano clamp-on bosses made for index shifting.

A shifter alternative is to use a brifter for shifting the rear derailleur, but a downtube shifter for the front. A regular brake lever can be used for the front brake. This weight-saving setup was often used by Lance on his climbing bike. Also, with this method you can use your existing non-indexing front derailleur and non-indexing downtube shifter.

Here are three innovative shifter alternatives that can facilitate upgrading or modernizing an old bike:

The Kelly Takeoff is: "A simple, low cost alternative to integrated shifting. Lightweight chromoly. Mounts simply. Uses your conventional shifters & aero/non-aero brake levers. Great for retrofits." Paul Component Engineering Thumbies thumb shifter mounts: "These are designed to be used with indexed Shimano bar-end (aka barcon) shifters. Both 9-speed and 8-speed indexed shifters are readily available, and these shifters also still have a friction option for everything else." Bar-end Shifter Mounts from Rivendell Bicycle Works . "If you have regular downtube shifters that you want to convert to bar-enders, you need these. Most shifters work on them. Not all, but most." CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS Many older Treks came with 27" diameter wheels/tires. More modern bikes use 700C wheels/tires. A common question is: "Can I simply replace my 27" wheels with 700C"? The answer is yes, if your brake pads can be lowered in their slots by 4mm or more. This is usually the case. A practical test is to borrow a set of 700C wheels and try them. If the pads cannot be lowered that much, the brakes calipers will have to be replaced with others that allow this much reach. There are plenty of good 27" tires available at road bike shops or on the Internet. Touring, commuting, and training tire availability is not a problem; lots of choices. Why change from 27" to 700C? Three reasons: 1. You want to use racing clincher tires. The selection and availability of lightweight skinny tires in 700C is huge. 2. You want to use tubular tires (which are not available in 27" diameter). 3. If you think 27" wheels/tires are old fashioned or your riding buddies give you grief.

SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS

Early Vintage Treks, 1976 to 1982 (or so), have a rear dropout spacing of 120mm. After 82, spacing increased to 126mm to accommodate 6 or 7 speed hubs. With a bit of effort (or $) you can bend the stays on your steel Trek to increase the spacing to work with modern hubs. Modern spacing is 130mm for 8, 9 or 10 speed (road hubs). One can even spread to 135mm to employ the extra strength of mountain bike rear hubs. This is common for touring bikes.

CAUTION: Only steel frames can be safely spread. Aluminum and carbon frames should not be spread as they tend to break or be damaged, not bend. Additionally, frames of Reynolds 753 steel tubing (such as the Trek Model 170) should not be spread. The forces required are so high that damage to the frame (or the person bending) is likely.

Unfortunately, there is some (but minor) risk involved in permanently bending a frame; the brake bridge or chainstay bridge can pop, leaving you with junk or an expensive repair job. An experienced bike shop can do the spreading, but usually with the proviso that is is at your risk.

One do-it-yourself method employs an 8" or longer piece of allthread, two nuts, and two washers. Allthread is a continuously-threaded rod available in most hardware stores. Use either 5/16" or 3/8" diameter. The allthread is placed in the dropouts and the nuts are turned outward to spread the dropouts. The washers go between the nuts and the dropouts. Lubricate the allthread to make the process easier.

You must spread well beyond the target width to get the stays to bend. It is an iterative process. Screw the dropouts out a bit, measure the spread, unscrew the allthread, and measure the result. If no permanent spreading is accomplished, spread again, going a bit farther. Repeat this process until the target is reached. Use care, there is little distance between spreading with no permanent bending and spreading with permanent bending. If you do go beyond the target width, use the allthread in reverse to bend the dropouts back together. Columbus tubing is commonly thought to be the most difficult to bend, followed by Ishiwata and then Reynolds 531.

I wrap the bridges with many turns of string and/or strapping tape to help assure they do not pop. However, realize that the tape or string can damage the paint. One can use the string method described by Sheldon Brown (see below) to check alignment after the spreading. Most Trek frames do not have dimpled chainstays, so spreading using the allthread method tends to spread the stays uniformly, and does not significantly affect alignment.

A final test of alignment is whether you can ride the bike with no hands and have the bike go straight with both bike and rider vertical.

More frame spreading information is available at Sheldon Brown's site http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html . He suggests an alternative method for spreading, employing a wooden 2 x 4. However, the 2 x 4 method can misalign the entire rear triangle. If this happens, one can use the allthread in reverse to keep the dropouts from spreading apart while using the 2 x 4 to twist the rear triangle back into alignment.

After spreading the dropouts, a good frame shop will align the dropout faces to make them parallel. They will have a tool just for this purpose. For the do-it-yourselfer, this is not normally necessary. Non parallel dropouts are often cited as a cause of axle breakage, at least for freewheel-type hubs. However, with the wide bearing location of modern cassette hubs, the problem is not encountered.

A shortcut, useful for going from 126mm to 130mm, is not to permanently spread the frame. When you install the 130mm hub, just pull apart the dropouts to make it fit. Not very elegant, but works just fine.

IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?

Is the tubing on your frame Columbus? If so, the steerer tube outer surface would probably have a little Columbus dove stamped on it. Also, if Columbus, the lower portion of inside of the steerer tube will typically have "ridges" or "rifling". (The inner surface of the top of the tube will be smooth to accept the stem.) If either is the case, the fork tubing is almost certainly Columbus. If the fork is original, the rest of the frame is almost certainly Columbus. However, if either the dove or the rifling are missing, it is not proof it is not Columbus, but it likely is not.

On vintage Treks, the Cinelli bottom bracket (with cast in "Cinelli") was more commonly used with Columbus tubing. However, it is not a reliable indicator as it also was used with Reynolds 531 tubing.

SOURCES OF GENERAL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT INFORMATION HOW TO CONTACT TREK TECHNICAL SUPPORT HOW TO FIND VINTAGE BIKE PARTS BASIC SPECS FOR VINTAGE TREK STEEL ROAD BIKES STEEL TUBING SPECS FOR EARLY TREKS HELICOMATIC HUBS PAINT TREK DECALS PAINT TOUCH UP INTERNAL RUSTPROOFING OF A FRAME THREADING THE DERAILLEUR CABLE THROUGH THE CHAINSTAY CONVERTING FROM A QUILL STEM TO A MODERN THREADLESS STEM ADDING MORE REAR COGS OR CONVERTING TO INDEX SHIFTING UPGRADING FROM A DOUBLE TO TRIPLE CRANK CONVERTING FROM 27" DIAMETER WHEELS TO 700C WHEELS SPREADING REAR DROPOUTS IS IT COLUMBUS TUBING?

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