2001 ford excursion ac recharge

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Ford Excursion low AC refrigerant symptoms, how to recharge

The refrigerant is the magic compound running through the AC system of Ford Excursion that makes it possible to blow super chilled air in the blistering heat. What happens when the refrigerant level gets too low?

The only most prominent symptom of low AC refrigerant in Ford Excursion is warm air from the AC vents. Insufficient amount of refrigerant in the AC system is one of the leading causes of AC not cooling properly. This can happen due to a leak or if the AC has not been recharged for a long time.

Refrigerant leak

A low refrigerant level in your Excursion does not necessarily mean there is a leak. Ideally, the refrigerant should never leak in a properly sealed AC system, but most car AC systems do leak small amount of refrigerant over time due to minor imperfections and will need recharging after every few years.

If you don’t service the AC system in your Excursion for a long time, the refrigerant level will eventually get so low that the system loses its cooling capacity. Just have it refilled and you can drive with pleasant temperatures again. If the refrigerant level goes down again quickly, it means there is probably a leak.

Refrigerant leak causes

Refrigerant leak in Excursion can be caused by leaking O-ring seals, leaking condenser or evaporator core, or a cracked hose. The leak can be diagnosed by injecting small amount of fluorescent dye into the AC system. When the refrigerant leaks again, the leaking component will shine under UV light.

How to recharge AC refrigerant the easy way

There are two ports in the air conditioning system of Excursion. One is labelled H for high-pressure and the other one is labelled L for low-pressure. You can recharge your AC through the low-pressure port with a do it yourself AC recharge kit.

• Open the hood of your Excursion.
• Check which type of refrigerant your vehicle uses. This information is typically located under the hood and/or in the owners manual.
• Start the engine.
• Turn on the AC and set it to the coldest setting, and the fan speed to maximum.

• Shake the canister briefly and release the refrigerant into the system until the recommended pressure has been achieved. Note: See next section for recommended pressure values.

Recommended video

Warning: Wear gloves and safety glasses before recharging the AC to avoid accidental exposure to harmful chemicals in the refrigerant. It is also cryogenic and can cause severe frostbite when it comes in contact with the skin.

Overcharged refrigerant

Just like with low refrigerant, the AC in Excursion will blow warm air only if the AC system is overcharged with refrigerant. An overcharged system not only affects cooling performance but can also damage the compressor and sometimes can cause a major leak.

Ambient temperature affect on refrigerant pressure

The refrigerant pressure is affected by the outside atmospheric temperature. So, even if you recharged your Excursion AC at the recommended pressure, the system could still over pressurize when the ambient temperatures get warmer.

Most modern vehicles use R-134a refrigerant, but newer vehicles are increasingly using R-1234yf as a more environmentally friendly replacement. The pressure values based on ambient temperatures differ depending on the type of the refrigerant. Check your vehicle’s owners manual or look under the hood to find the type of the refrigerant your vehicle uses.

Low side pressure values R134a vs R1234yf

Check refrigerant pressure.

Connect the pressure gauge to the low pressure (L) port in Excursion. If the pressure is higher than the recommended values, let some refrigerant out preferably into an empty tank since releasing the refrigerant into the air is harmful for the environment and is against the law.

The proper way

The DIY AC recharge kit method is considered as a quick fix, and is usually not recommended by the professionals. The proper way is the complete evacuation of the refrigerant from the AC system with a recovery machine, then refilling the precise amount of refrigerant by weight based on the manufacturer specifications.

There are many reasons why your Ford Excursion AC is blowing warm air. When looking for the reason, you should always start with the most obvious cause, insufficient amount of refrigerant.

In any case, it is advisable for laypersons to visit a workshop. A professional mechanic can swiftly diagnose the poor AC cooling issue for you.

Okay, but like I put into search for “where/which is the low side valve and this is the 17th site that search shows but no indication is given for that question, so far Anywhere.

The video shows the port locations.

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AC system refrigerant capacity?

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How many lbs. / ozs. of 134 does the AC system on an Excursion take? I dropped 18 oz in and got my low side up to about 30 PSI, but It's still not blowing too cold. Is this because my truck has a rear condenser, and it needs more refrigerant to fill the whole system? I'm going to check the pressure and get it up closer to 40 PSI after this damn rain stops... Hopefully, it's not leaking out.  

Pop your hood open and it should be right there in front of you on the fan cover i think  

the decal should be on the shroud under the hood i believe excursions take around 3 1/2 pounds but before you add you should leak test the system to make sure it's airtight otherwise you're doing this for nothing  

keep in mind that higher low side pressures do not equal colder temperatures, they actually indicate a higher evaporator (coil in the cab) temperature in most cases. You need to get a gauge set that will show you the high side pressure to get anywhere near an accurate idea of whats goin on with the ac system. Just dumping refrigerant in usually does more harm than good. The BEST way to recharge an ac system is to remove all refrigerant and recharge by the weight on the sticker  

Just finished up a head gasket/stud job on my 2004 F350 6.0, and needed this info (had to pull ac condensor to get to passenger side head bolts), and yes it is right there under the hood. 2lb 10oz plus 9fl oz oil. Question is how do I get all the oil out so I can recharge with new oil? I assume as with all mechanical devices, oil gets loaded with contaminants as parts wear, also the oil breaks down, so for the sake of longevity of my compressor should I go the extra yard?  

$75 at most shops, they'll drain the whole system, recharge appropriately, and add the oil shot. Your store bought can wont get near the same results anyways, doing it properly will get the a/c working to max capability. And that machine will also let you know if there is any leaks.  

4.25 LBS. EXCURSION ONLY W/ AUX. A/C.  

Yep yep he's got it.  

01 excursion7.3, Draining the system of refrigerant and evacuating will not remove the oil and why do you think store bought refrigerant is not as good as the stuff that comes from a wholesaler in a bigger can? Oppinions and facts are often not one in the same.  

It's too easy to overcharge/undercharge the system with one of the can systems. Having it done ensures the proper amount of charge, and proper amount of oil shot. You mean to tell me the average joe can get it right on the dot? I doubt it. I'd rather have it done every time and be done with it. Plus, if it doesn't feel cold enough, I have someone to complain to to fix it, besides myself.  

that is good if that is what you want, however that does not address the oil issue. If you know how much oil came out you can replace same amout, but to put an oil fill in you have to darin the system of all old oil first. how is that done, and evacation will not remove the oil.  

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• Ford Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

If you’re working on your Ford AC and recharging you’ll need to know the Ford Refrigerant capacity and refrigerant oil type and capacity. I compiled this list from multiple sources and it’s as accurate as I can get it. However, if anything on this list conflicts with the information you’ve found, double-check using a shop manual.

Most R-134a systems use PAG 46, but some use other viscosities, like PAG150. Make sure you use the correct oil!

How to use these refrigerant tables

To speed up page loading, the tables only show up to 10 entries. However, once the page is loaded, you can change the number of entries shown. You can also enter the year in the search box or scroll up and down the table using the next/previous buttons at the bottom of the table.

Ford AEROSTAR Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

The Ford Aerostar van was sold from 1986 to 1997. It was available with a 2.3L, 2.8L, or 3.0L engine and with and without a rear AC unit.

Ford switched from R-12 to R-134a starting with the 1994 model year.

Ford Crown Victoria Grand Marquis Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

The Ford Crown Victoria was produced from 1992–2011. All Crown Victoria and Lincoln Grand Marquis AC systems use an orifice-tube type expansion valve and a cycling compressor clutch.

Ford E450 SERIES FULLSIZE VAN Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

On base model E-Series vans, the standard air conditioning setup uses an auxiliary compressor mounted to the front of the engine to supply cooling power. This system pumps out 27,000 BTU/hr of cooling capacity. Ford also offered an optional Enhanced Capacity Air Conditioning with up to 35,000 BTU/hr of cooling output from a large compressor and condenser setup.

In addition, Ford also offered a premium system that had up to 40,000 BTU/hr. The system includes an oversized evaporator core and a high-output blower fan. The overhead casing design optimizes the delivery of chilled air through adjustable roof-mounted ducts.

Ford EDGE Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

H block expansion valve

The Ford Edge air conditioning system originally employed an orifice tube to regulate refrigerant flow. The original orifice tube was crimped into the middle of the liquid refrigerant line, running from the condenser to the evaporator. In more recent years, expansion valves have become the preferred choice over orifice tubes in automotive air conditioning systems. Expansion valves offer better control over refrigerant flow, responding to evaporator temperature and cooling demand. These valves allow for more precise adjustments, resulting in improved AC system performance.

Ford ESCAPE Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

Ford excursion refrigerant capacity and refrigerant oil type.

The Ford Excursion was sold by Ford from the year 2000 to 2005. It was sold with and without a rear AC unit. Here are the refrigerant capacities for both.

Ford EXPEDITION Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

The Ford Expedition typically uses the FS10 type AC compressor. The AC clutch is replaceable on this compressor. If it’s not working you can find replacements at rockauto.com. The clutch hub and clutch coil cost around $100.

Ford EXPLORER Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

Ford f150 full size pickup refrigerant capacity and refrigerant oil type.

Starting in the late 1990s, Ford began phasing out orifice tubes for the F-150’s A/C systems in favor of thermostatic expansion valves (TXV). The transition happened around the 1997-1999 model years. The TXV provided better performance and efficiency over a wider range of operating conditions compared to the fixed orifice tube design.

Ford F250 Series PICKUP Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

Ford flex refrigerant capacity and refrigerant oil type.

The Ford Flex was manufactured by Ford Motor Company from 2009 to 2019 as a single generation. Designed to replace the Ford Taurus X, the Flex also served as a functional alternative to the outgoing Ford Freestar minivan. While slightly larger than its Taurus X predecessor, the Flex was dimensionally comparable to the full-sized Ford Explorer, albeit marginally longer but not as tall as the Explorer in Ford’s lineup.

Ford FREESTAR Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

Ford rebranded the Windstar minivan in 2004, calling it the Ford Freestar. It was sold under this name until the 2007 model year.

2007-04 All  – 13.00 Oz. PAG-46; 53.00 Oz. R-134a with Rear AC All  10.00 Oz. PAG-46,  36.00 Oz. R-134a without Rear AC;

Ford FREESTYLE Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

The Ford Freestyle was a crossover utility vehicle offered from 2005 to 2009. It was the successor to the Ford Taurus station wagon. It shared its platform with the Ford Five Hundred and Mercury Montego sedans. It blended the traits of a sport utility vehicle and a passenger car, catering to buyers seeking a versatile vehicle with a car-like ride and handling combined with the increased cargo space and raised seating position of an SUV.

It was available with or without rear AC

2007-05 All Eng. 29.00 Oz. R-134a without Rear AC; 7.00 Oz. PAG-46 All Eng.  38.00 Oz. R-134a with Rear AC 9.00 Oz. PAG-46

Ford FOCUS Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

Ford fusion refrigerant capacity and refrigerant oil type, ford mustang refrigerant capacity and refrigerant oil type, ford probe refrigerant capacity and refrigerant oil type.

Ford ventured into the sports coupe segment with the Probe. It was first offered in 1988 and produced until 1997. The Probe was produced in partnership with Mazda. It was based on Mazda’s front-wheel-drive G platform. Ford switched over to R-134a for the 1994 model year

Ford RANGER Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

The Ford Ranger is a compact or mid-size pickup truck that was introduced in 1982 and built until 2010, when it was discontinued. The Ranger was re-introduced in 2019.

In 2022, Ford introduced the latest iteration of the Ranger, designated the P703, which is based on the T6 platform. This current generation marks the return of the Ranger to the North American market after a hiatus that lasted from 2011 to 2018.

Throughout its lifespan, the Ford Ranger has occupied a prominent position in the automaker’s lineup, catering to customers seeking a capable and versatile compact or mid-size pickup truck with a global presence.

Ford TAURUS Refrigerant Capacity and Refrigerant Oil Type

Ford transit connect refrigerant capacity and refrigerant oil type.

The Ford Transit Connect is a compact commercial panel vane. It was introduced in 2002 by Ford Europe. Ford started importing the Transit Connect into the North American market in the 2010 model year. To avoid taxes on imported trucks, they were built as passenger vans. Ford then stripped out the rear seats and seatbelts, at a Ford warehouse near Baltimore, converting the units into cargo vans.

Ford WINDSTAR Capacity

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• Air Conditioning Refrigerant Capacity and Oil Type

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Schedule A/C Service for Your Ford Excursion

Feeling the heat from your A/C? Our trained technicians can take a look at your 2001 Ford Excursion A/C system and recommend a repair plan. Schedule A/C service today and get ready to chill out.

A/C Repair Service for Your Ford Excursion

There’s nothing worse than cranking your car air conditioner on a hot day — and discovering it’s broken. Your steering wheel feels like lava. Your skin sticks to the driver’s seat. “Who can fix my Ford Excursion A/C?” you wonder, as the sun beats through the windshield. Firestone Complete Auto Care — that’s who! We know our way around Ford vehicles, and our qualified technicians can diagnose and service the A/C system  in your 2001 Ford. Bring your Ford Excursion to your local Firestone Complete Auto Care

In this A/C performance inspection, we’ll check out the current condition of your 2001 Ford Excursion A/C system to determine whether repair work is needed. This check will include an examination of system pressure, a visual inspection, and a leak test. If we think there might be a leak, we'll run a special U/V dye through the system or use a "sniffer." A "sniffer" is a machine that's run along parts of your Ford Excursion A/C system that can identify points where refrigerant fumes could be escaping the system. If there's a leak, we'll find it and fix it.

A/C Recharge for Ford Excursion

Let's say we repair your 2001 Ford Excursion A/C system. We will also perform an A/C evacuation and recharge. To start this process, a technician will flush out the old refrigerant from your vehicle’s A/C system. Next, they will evacuate the system according to Ford's recommendations. To finish, we’ll add new refrigerant to recharge the A/C system, and after one final test to be sure the system is cooling properly, you're ready to get back on the road. Our technicians are trained to efficiently perform 2001 Ford Excursion A/C recharges.

Common Ford Excursion A/C Problems

Warm air isn't the only Ford Excursion A/C problem you may encounter. Another common A/C problem is weak airflow, which could mean you have a compromised seal, mildew or mold buildup, a loose or damaged hose, or a ventilation fan that needs to be replaced. If you notice that your A/C system’s air is cold at first, then quickly goes warm, this can mean there’s a malfunctioning compressor clutch, a leak, or a blown fuse. Are you breathing in some “interesting” new odors in your 2001 Ford Excursion? This can mean you have mold in your evaporator case, or it may indicate that it’s time to change your cabin air filter. Our trained technicians will do what they can to solve your A/C problems. We’re here to help you get back on the road in your Excursion — without all the sweat puddles!

Frequently Asked Questions for 2001 Ford Excursion A/C Systems

• How can I make my Excursion air conditioner colder? For starters, use a sun-blocking shade in the windshield while you’re parked, or look for a shady parking spot. Closing all the passenger vents in your car can help redirect cold air toward you, cooling you off faster. Still need more chill? Head to Firestone Complete Auto Care for an A/C performance check and recharge.
• Why do I get hot air from my Excursion A/C? If your car’s air conditioning isn’t blowing cold air at all (or it tries, then turns warm), you could have a clogged expansion valve, a faulty compressor clutch, a leak, or a malfunctioning fuse in the system.
• What causes A/C system leaks? A/C system leaks are often due to a combination of age and moisture. Rubber seals and gaskets naturally degrade over time, allowing refrigerant to exit and moisture to enter your Excursion's A/C system.
• Is my Excursion A/C powered by gas? Excursion air conditioning systems don’t use gasoline as a direct fuel source. However, they do rely on engine power, which can indirectly affect your vehicle’s gas mileage.
• My Excursion’s A/C smells like vinegar! What can cause that? If the air conditioning in your Excursion smells like vinegar, it could be due to bacteria growth on system components such as the evaporator and heater cores. Bacteria can grow when moisture accumulates on air conditioning system components, providing a breeding ground for microorganisms.
• Why does my Excursion’s A/C only work when the car is moving? There could be issues with one or more components in the air conditioning or electrical system. Your Excursion may have a faulty cooling fan or low refrigerant.
• Where can I go for Excursion A/C repair near me? Firestone Complete Auto Care has decades of experience inspecting and repairing Excursion air conditioning systems. Schedule an A/C repair appointment  at one of our locations near you today.

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Excursion A/C not cold

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Hey guys... I have an 02 f350 but my mom has a 03 X. Now... Its a 6.8 v10 so pls excuse the lack of it being diesel. Probem>> After idling for 5 mins, the AC coming out of the vent only gets down to 60F:nono:. We all remember being in this thing freezing and loving it... now its just mildly mediocre and is not adequate in the blacked-out beast in the Texas summer. She already has a shutoff valve on the coolant line leading to the heater core, so the MAX AC assist (or ball valve) wont help. http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=21 The ford stealership says that the r134 level is fine. Soon I'll be wrapping the coolant line with nice insulation, but this temp should be lower with no mods.... help please  

air gap, check that and remove the front plate and inside of it should be a small washer/spacer. take that out and should cure the problem. as long as it is the same as my 2003 f250 diesel set up , should take you about 10 mins  

Ok Ill check for an air gap, but which "plate" is this?  

Go to this thread here http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/adjustment-ac-clutch-283938/ It covers what your looking for and where to go from there.  

Ok, First I checked the compressor. it is functioning correctly... The clutch engages when necessary and the compressor continues to run after an extended period of time. The spacing is also within spec. I just cleaned/degreased the condenser with no success in helping the A/C temp. I just got in it today and its seriously pitiful, you cant even call it "air conditioning" more like cool fan air. No wonder My mothers been so angry today :lol:. Anyway I'll continue to work away at it... please continue the helpful tips... Ill get there Im sure.  

With the AC on is the suction line cold? It should be sweating. Also look at the condenser, if it never been cleaned that can cause poor cooling. With out gauges on it and knowing working high and low pressure Im out of ideas. I just re-read your original post with 60 degree air discharge you need to put gauges on this to see where your at. Just because ford said " its right" does not always means its correct. Is the compressor clicking on and off? Or running non stop. If its clicking on and off your more than likely low on charge.  

OK... Recently I have checked pretty much all that you just said. -Checked the low side pressure.. which was 30psi -Suction line IS cold and getting condensation on it -I cleaned and thoroughly degreased the condenser -Compressor is engaging when necessary and staying engaged until turned off... Air gap is good and everything with the compressor seems fine. I would like to check the orifice tube, but i have to evacuate the system of the r134 before I do that right?  

-Checked the low side pressure.. which was 30psi Click to expand...

I would like to check the orifice tube, but i have to evacuate the system of the r134 before I do that right? Click to expand...

chuckster57 said: What did you use? If you used a manifold gauge set then you could read both the low and high side. Just having the low side reading isn't really much help without knowing what the high side is. And is that reading with the compressor engaged? If that is with the compressor running then I don't think the system is low on refrigerant. Yeah the refrigerant has to be removed...then you have to evacuate the system before recharge and the proper protocol is to replace the drier/reciever also any time the system is opened up. Click to expand...

If your suction line is cold, then your evaporator core is cold. Quit looking at the a/c under the hood and start looking inside - the evaporator could be plugged with debris, the blend door could be malfunctioning - blower motor - etc. Don't worry about the orifice tube if your suction line is cold. If it were plugged or blown, that wouldn't be happening.  

The Front evaporator AND blower motor.... are BOTH under the hood :lol: :jester:  

When mine was not cooling good, I replaced the orvice tube and the expansion valve. Recharged and it works great. The expansion valve is in the compartment in the rear where the jack is.  

Check to make sure you heater blend door is closing.  

hey Buford, RT is the one who helped me get my 2003 f250 working correctly just a few weeks back. i know you say 60 degrees but does it feel like ambient air. if so, even though the air gap may be correct like i thought mine was, you may want to take the front plate off and take out one of the spacers/washers and then ride around for about 20 mins and see whether there is a change in temp. RT got me to do this and i wasnt sure what i was looking for at first but once i got the spacer/small washer out of the front place which has just one small bolt in it , the front clutch plate is what i am talking about. unless RT suggests something different i would try this as well because i am not seeing where you have and i was about to mess my system up by adding freon , so i did as he suggested and took a spacer /washer out and within minutes i had cold air. still have cold air and operating correctly. again i thought i had the correct gap as well but once i took the spacer/washer out the gap closed to actual correct gap. if you need instructions on how to do this let us know. hope this helps, RT, think he ought to at least give that a shot, worked for me just as you said it would. thanks, D  

saltypop said: hey Buford, RT is the one who helped me get my 2003 f250 working correctly just a few weeks back. i know you say 60 degrees but does it feel like ambient air. if so, even though the air gap may be correct like i thought mine was, you may want to take the front plate off and take out one of the spacers/washers and then ride around for about 20 mins and see whether there is a change in temp. RT got me to do this and i wasnt sure what i was looking for at first but once i got the spacer/small washer out of the front place which has just one small bolt in it , the front clutch plate is what i am talking about. unless RT suggests something different i would try this as well because i am not seeing where you have and i was about to mess my system up by adding freon , so i did as he suggested and took a spacer /washer out and within minutes i had cold air. still have cold air and operating correctly. again i thought i had the correct gap as well but once i took the spacer/washer out the gap closed to actual correct gap. if you need instructions on how to do this let us know. hope this helps, RT, think he ought to at least give that a shot, worked for me just as you said it would. thanks, D Click to expand...

The spacer should only be removed if your air gap is out of specs. If the compressor is turning while you are having the problem - that's not it. Do you have a thermocouple? Or any way to get an exact temperature of your suction line? Beer can cold worked for years but isn't considered the proper way to get the proper refrigerant load. Still, if your suction side is ice cold and sweating and your vent temperatures aren't cold - there's a problem with heat transfer. I don't want to come across as single minded - just can't count the number of times I've seen people sink thousands into rebuilding their a/c system only to eventually dig the equivalent of a birds nest worth of crap out of a completely plugged evaporator. Or a heater valve stuck open. Or a blend door frozen open - etc..  

Totally Understand. That makes sense too. Everything other than that seems fine. No I dont have a thermocouple. Ill eventually get the system evacuated, then check the evap., then have it recharged. Am I correct in thinking that any time the system is evacuated and air gets in it, then the accumulator/drier needs to be replaced?  

Yes, you should replace the drier and use the opportunity to replace the orifice tube any time the system is opened. But what I'm trying to say is you don't need to have the system evacuated. When I say plugged evaporator - I'm talking about the outside where the air flows through. Like when your radiator gets plugged up with bugs - you don't have to drain the coolant to fix that. Just vacuum it out and get the air flowing again. Pull the blower motor and get a flashlight in there and look at it.  

Yessir I understood that, I just thought that I had to remove the whole evap. (thus evac'ing, etc) just to clean it well. Thnx Ill check it that way  

OK! just removed blower motor and used an inspection mirror... Most of the evap is clear... but there are a few COMPLETELY clogged sections...problem found! (Thnx RT). now.. can I thoroughly clean it any other way than reaching through that little hole? It looks like I can remove a large plastic section below and to the right of where the MAP sensor would be on a diesel.... It's black and has a heat shield on it due to its close proximity to the engine.. It looks like the other side of the evap. Is it possible to take that off?  

You might be able to get the back cover off - then you could use compressed air to blow the crap out - maybe while running a shop vac at the blower hole to catch any flying debris. Don't forget to verify the blend door is moving. You can pull your glove box liner and watch the lever move while you move the controls. Here's a picture of the evaporator cover screws and what you will see when its removed: View attachment evaporator.pdf  

Whoa, whoa - is that your low side pressure? You are WAY overcharged. Any refrigerant has a pressure temperature curve. For fixed orifice systems, especially with short piping (unlike the huge runs in some houses) you can assume your low side pressure and its corresponding temperature equivalent are roughly equal. R134a has a pressure temperature equivalent of 65.71° at 65 psi. That means that if your low side is showing 65 psi - the best you could ever hope for out of the evaporator is 65.71° - check here for a chart: R134a Refrigerant Pressure Temperature Calculator If you get your low side pressure down to around 32-34 psi, you will have an evaporator temperature of about 36-38° - much more enjoyable temperatures. Have you had the system open? Was it completely vacuumed down before being recharged? I sure wish you were close enough for me to run over and put a full set of gauges on it for you.  

System has not been opened that I know of. Here's what the "Professionals" have told my mother: -You need a new compressor please give us $1400 -with high ambient temps such as above 90F, a charge of 40-50 is fine........ sounded high to me too, thats why I put that pic up. Thnx so much Im in woodlands area/north Houston btw.  

That's just down the road - I'm in the Lake Conroe area. Dump the pressure down to 35psi or so. If that doesn't fix it, we can make a time to meet somewhere on I45 and I'll bring my gauges.  

Awesome, Will do  

I hope Im doing something wrong.... Just dropped the pressure and as I did, my friend with me watched the digital thermometer in the vent go from 71F to 80F. I got the pressure down to 40psi and if I tried to do it any more it seemed like it would go right back up to over 40. Now, the line into the accumulator was cold, but the one coming out was hot, which of course was the input into the evap. (And it was definitely the input into the evap, the one that was cold and sweating before.)  

Did you ever figure out why your ac wasn't blowing cold? My 01 Excursion 7.3 has the EXACT symptoms to a T that you describe in your thread with RT. I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance![/QUOTE]  

There may be a restriction. I'll PM you in a second.  

reading this I do have my manifold readings and I am in the 60 psi realm on the low side and the high side is registering zero, the ac is blowing luke cold air. Any ideas?  

I can see no way the high side would really be zero. Sounds like a fitting issue or gauge issue. Just for kicks, put your low side gauge on the high side with the engine off. You should show the same pressure on high and low side that way. Can you check your suction line in the front and the one in the back (behind the right side kick panel in the cargo area) and compare the temps. With the other vehicle, I was suspecting the orifice tube was clogged and all the freon was being directed to the expansion valve in the back.  

RT said: I can see no way the high side would really be zero. Sounds like a fitting issue or gauge issue. Just for kicks, put your low side gauge on the high side with the engine off. You should show the same pressure on high and low side that way. Can you check your suction line in the front and the one in the back (behind the right side kick panel in the cargo area) and compare the temps. With the other vehicle, I was suspecting the orifice tube was clogged and all the freon was being directed to the expansion valve in the back. Click to expand...

I realize this is an old post but I wanted to see if anyone found a solution. I am having a similar issue with my 2000 Excursion 7.3, entire system is new except for the front evaporator. I do a lot of ac work but this one has me baffled. Low side pressure will not go below 50-55 psi. Ive even tried going to smaller orifice tubes and it wont drop ( I understand the system isnt designed for this, just thought I would try). I bought the truck in 2010 and its never had good ac. The only thing I can think of is maybe that the system has too much oil? I pull 29+" vacuum for 90 minutes before I charge and it holds the vacuum for an hour so I dont believe Im getting air in the system. Thank you for any help!  

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How to Add Refrigerant to a 2000 Ford Expedition XLT 5.4L V8

Ford expedition model years - 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002.

Where the low pressure A/C port is on 2000 Expedition and how to add add freon

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When the air conditioner in your 2000 Ford Expedition starts blowing hot air, you likely have a freon leak. Recharging the freon in your AC system is an inexpensive and easy first step to restoring the cooling capacity of your A/C system. Most refrigerants include a leak sealer that will seal small leaks in addition to filling the R134a freon. The A/C system in your Expedition consists of a compressor that is belt-driven, an evaporator and freon. If there is a problem with your compressor or evaporator, adding freon will not restore cooling.

How do you recharge AC in a 2000 Ford Expedition? The low side AC port location is the first thing to find when you are looking for how to put freon in a car. Once you find the 2000 Expedition AC low pressure port cap, hook up the can of refrigerant to the low pressure port. When your compressor kicks on, add freon to the correct pressure. In addition to cooling, freon lubricates the compressor when it runs. Typically the AC recharge kit you buy will have enough capacity to add enough freon to get the AC in your Expedition to blow cold air.

What type of refrigerant does a 2000 Ford Expedition use? Air conditioning systems can vary so it is critical that you check the sticker in the engine bay to determine your Expedition refrigerant type. There is an AC sticker in the engine bay of your 2000 Expedition that indicates if it requires R134a refrigerant or the newer R1234YF type to do a recharge. You cannot add R1234YF refrigerant to a R134a system nor can you add R134a refrigerant to a R1234YF system. R134a and R1234YF have different low pressure port types, so you should never use a recharge adapter to add the wrong type of refrigerant. Recharging your Expedition with the wrong type of freon can make the AC recharge cost much higher!

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• Ford Expedition Forum
• 1st Gen - 1997 - 2002

RECHARGE AC

• Thread starter Mr.Ted
• Start date May 30, 2019

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• May 30, 2019

Well-Known Member

I need to know for sure about the R 134 to recharge the AC for a 1998 Expedition EB 5.4  

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What do you need to know?  

If you've got front and rear AC , 62 ounces, front only 37 ounces r134a. That's total empty system. Pag 46 oil is 11 ounces front/rear air, 9 if front only. Hope that gets you started. Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk  

• May 31, 2019

THANKS MOOSE  

No prob. Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk  

Hey mr Moose do I really need to mess with the back? If I don't will that effect the performance of the whole unit. Also went to WalMart and Auto Zone they had a can with the meter gauge on it for $33/ WM and AZ $30 but WM had a small can $6 is the meter important?  

Lets see, those of us that work on ac systems spend $250-350 for a set of stand alone pressure gauges, $4,000-$7000 on just one recovery unit that also has built in gauges. So I think being able to know what the low and high side pressures are might be important. It would be prudent to change the service ports and pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks before dumping in the refrigerant. Those gauge cans are a joke. They are made for the uneducated in ac operation and take your money. You recharge an automotive ac system by weight of refrigerant while monitoring the pressure readings. You just don't toss a few cans in and say its good. The gauge is a cheap china guess gauge. You may get it to cool but what is the high side pressure? Also stay away from any that contain ac system sealer. They do more damage to the system. Hey Moose, have you checked the cost of 10lbs of yf1234?  

No I haven't. Do they make a set of gauges I can hook up to me? I'm pumping in 3, 25 oz Budweiser beers right now! Oh yeah that's my blood pressure tester back at the house. Ted, listen to stamp, he's done more AC work than probably every one here combined. Don't cheap out on the cans with the gauge. If you overfill the AC by more than 10 ounces, it can come out everywhere and damage the system. I once over filled my Datsun 280zx, it looked like Christmas under the hood. As to your question can you fill just the front, I thought their was one charge point, and it took 62 ounces. When you charge it, it's for front, and back. You should have settings front and rear at coldest, and fans on high, with doors open. Any of the others want to confirm/deny. I personally haven't had to charge mine. You should be able to rent the R134a gauges from one of the major auto parts tool rent programs. It's free once you return them unharmed. Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk  

Don't waste the money on the large cans or gauge cans. Sales gimmick. Get a 10-12.00 charging hose and buy the 12 oz cans. Get 3-4 cans. You didn't give us much info about it. Does it cool at all? Does the compressor clutch kick on at all? Did it work previously or have you had it that long? Most just get low and kick on and off and stop getting cold. Some get a fast leak or catch a rock in the condenser and leak out quickly and stop coming on altogether. Walmart has cans for 4.88 Rural King for 3.99 and they are the old good style ones. You will need an adapter for the new self sealing cans that walmart sells. It is only about $3. Your fill port is on the accumulator/dryer near the firewall on pass side. Should have a black screw on cap on it. You can push the inside valve core down with a small screwdriver carefully and if it has any pressure it will blow out a little. That;s a good thing as you don't want to find an empty system = big leak unless someone had it open to replace a compressor or something else and didn't recharge it. Either way bad. If you have pressure hook the charging hose to the can and pierce the top (if using old style can) and hook to fill port on car. open valve on hose and shake the can as it goes in. You might hear a little click when the pressure switch kicks in. Then you can start the car and turn ac on max hi fan recirc. It should suck the can in and you will be able to tell when it is empty and no thing left sloshing around in it. Then take hose off of port and reload another can and repeat. If you see or hear any hissing leaking then you have a bad leak and can stop without wasting any more r-134a. As pressure comes up the compressor will come on for 3-4 seconds then off again. As more goes in it will stay on longer. Then it will stay on all the time. 2-3 cans should get you cycling nice or even staying on most of time. The large aluminum (usually silver metal) line will get cold and sweaty when you are getting close to correct charge. It is nice to have gauges to see the pressures before you start and watch the high side go up and low side go down, but you can get by with this basic way as many did for decades. I grew up in the time of $.88 cans of Freon R-12 every year in a whole endcap display at K-Mart.  

• Jun 1, 2019

THANKS guys now I have to make up my mind what to do. I don't have $250.00 or $350. 00 too have it done, however I don't want too blow the darn thing up and it cost even more to repair. Living on Social Security and pension sucks not like when I was working .Thanks for your help.  

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How to recharge the ac on a 2001 ford expedition

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5 Related Answers

• 3092 Answers
• Posted on Jun 29, 2010

SOURCE: were is the low pressure port for AC fill located

Passenger side by fire wall under some elec. connector on accumulator, port point about 45 deg. angel towards engine.

• Not Helpful
• Posted on Aug 06, 2008

SOURCE: 2001 ford expedition spark plug location

That's because they are hidden quite well. If you look at the engine, you'll see yellow plastic prongs (?) that look like spark plugs, but hook up to the silver tubing.  That's the fuel injectors.  BUT, right behind the yellow plugs, are black ones.  The black one is the connector to the spark plug.  The plug itself sits about 4 inches down into the block of the engine.  They are a real pain, and from what I can tell, you only have decent access to the first 2-4 of them, then they get too far back and start going under the dash (you'll see what I mean when you get there).

• 3533 Answers
• Posted on Mar 21, 2009

SOURCE: I want to recharge ac on 2001 focus ford

134A is the freon you need and to find the port follow the lines from the condensor back toward the engine and you should find the connection for the charge hose and make sure you have gloves and safety glasses on and try www.autozone.com to see if they have your car listed for diagrams pictures and step by step instructions if your car is not listed then try your local library they have all the car manuals and even copy them for you

aaron johnson

• 204 Answers
• Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: How do you change upper and lower ball joints on 2001 Ford Expedition?

i am not going to lie to you on this. if you do not have a very good mechanical back ground you should not attemp this procedure your self because it could result in serious injury. it should be brought to a shop because they do have the right tools to do this. alot of the time ball joints are pressed in under extream amounts of pressure

• Posted on Jun 26, 2009

SOURCE: where do i recharge ac on a 2001 lincoln ls we only found i line

You Can locate it beside the compresor underneath the car on the driver side

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