how to visit palestine from israel

Travel to Palestine (West Bank) – 2-week itinerary + Tips

By Joan Torres 39 Comments Last updated on April 12, 2024

From green rolling hills to a Mediterranean culture and cuisine, the hospitality of the Arabs, first-class souks, historical cities that are thousands of years old and one of the most interesting political scenes in our modern history, visiting Palestine, especially a tiny region called the West Bank, will definitely surprise you.

Whether you are interested in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, a lover of Biblical and Christian sites or just a backpacker seeking adventure, Palestine is a country adaptable to any kind of traveler.

This guide contains everything you need to know to travel to Palestine , including a comprehensive 2-week itinerary as well as plenty of travel tips. 

In this Palestine travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

• Safety in Palestine
• Books I recommend
• The people and religion
• Detailed costs
• Day 1-3 – Jerusalem
• Day 3-5 – Bethlehem
• Day 5-7 – Hebron
• Day 7-9 – Ramallah
• Day 9-11 – Nablus
• Day 11-14 – Jericho
• Jenin – 2 extra days
• Zababdeh – 2 extra days
• Qalqilya – 1 extra day
• More information

💡 Traveling to Palestine – Quick travel tips

Wait, West Bank or Gaza? –  You probably know this already but Palestinian territories are divided into two regions: the West Bank and the Gaza Strip, both separated by the state of Israel. You can’t enter Gaza unless you are a journalist or an NGO worker.

This article is for those traveling to the West Bank.

If you wish to travel to Gaza , read our travel guide there.

How to travel to Palestine – There are no international airports in Palestine, so you can only enter overland through Israel. The Palestinian border is controlled by the Israeli authorities.

Read more: Israel – Jordan border crossing .

Visa for visiting the West Bank – A Palestinian visa doesn’t exist. If you are in possession of an Israeli visa, you can visit the West Bank. Most nationalities, especially EU countries, USA, Canada, Australia, and Japan, can get a  free visa  on arrival. For more information, check out this link to see if your visa situation.

Israeli stamps? –  The Israeli authorities don’t stamp passports anymore. Instead, they give you a slip containing all your personal information, which you need to keep with you if want to travel to the West Bank. This is quite a controversial topic. You can find all your answers here:  Avoid Israeli stamps – FAQ .

Currency –  In Palestine, the currency used is the Israeli Shekel.  1USD = 3.60ISL . Exchange offices are available throughout the country.

Language –  Arabic is the official language. A large proportion of the Palestinian population is well-educated and many speak good English. Taxi drivers and shopkeepers speak very basic English.

When to visit Palestine – The West Bank is a year-round destination, with slightly cold winters and moderately hot summers. Some desert parts, though, like Jericho, can get extremely hot in summer. I would say that either spring or autumn would be the best time to travel to Palestine.

Transportation –  Since both the Israeli authorities and settlers need to drive throughout the region, roads are in a very good condition. The West Bank also has an efficient public transport system, connecting all cities and towns.

Typically, you have two options: big buses, which are cheaper but slower and less frequent; or  serveece , which are brand new yellow mini-vans that are slightly more expensive but faster and way more frequent. Within cities, towns and between small villages, shared taxis are also very common.

Hitchhiking –  While backpacking in Palestine, I hitchhiked five or six times and I never had to wait for more than ten minutes and, even in smaller areas and towns, some cars were stopping voluntarily, asking me if I needed a ride to somewhere. Very rarely, they will ask you for money. It only happened to me once.

Internet / SIM Card –  High-speedWi-Fi is available throughout the country. You can buy either a Palestinian or an Israeli SIM card. Palestinian SIM cards are cheap but only have 2G not 3G, so if you want good internet data you must buy an Israeli one, which can only be bought in Israel or in border cities like Kalandia, close to Ramallah. A brand new SIM with one month’s worth of data and calls costs around 90ISL (25USD).

Read: A guide for traveling to Syria (How to get a visa + tips)

⚠️ Is it safe to visit the West Bank and Palestine?

You may also be interested in which countries in the Middle East are safe to visit

For the past few years, whatever you have heard on the news in relation to the war with Israel, has happened in the Gaza Strip, which is an isolated, hermetic and inaccessible piece of territory.

The West Bank is a totally different place that has lived in peace (despite a few clashes) for almost twenty years, since the  Second Intifada .

🚑 Travel Insurance for Palestine

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📚 Recommended books for traveling to the West Bank and Palestine 

Palestine travel guide by Bradt – The only exclusive book guide to Palestine. Bradt is one of my favorite traveling brands as they give so many tips for the independent traveler and plenty of local insights.

Israel & West Bank travel guide by Lonely Planet – You can also buy the combo from LP, although it is not very comprehensive for the Palestinian Territories.

Walking Palestine – If you are a trekking lover, this is the best book for trekking in Palestine out there.

🕌 People and religion

After traveling to practically all the Middle Eastern countries , I will dare say that Palestinians one of the most hospitable peoples in the region.

Either because they rarely see foreigners, have an international bad reputation due to the Israeli conflict or just because they are kind by nature, the fact is that you should always expect loads of coffee, food and house invitations.

Traveling in the West Bank is extremely pleasant.

Palestine is a Muslim country, Sunni Islam being the most practiced religion.  Hebron , Nablus and Jenin are more traditional and conservative, so you should always dress modestly there. Ramallah, a surprisingly cosmopolitan capital, is more laid-back, so is Bethlehem, the city with the largest Christian population.

Home to some of the most important Biblical sites in the world, Christianity also plays an important role in the West Bank, not only in Bethlehem but also in several Christian villages around Ramallah and Jenin, like Taybeh and Zababdeh, where even local breweries can be found.

Read: A travel guide to Beirut

💰 Travel to Palestine – How much does it cost?

You will be surprised if I tell you that the West Bank is not a budget backpacking destination, with similar prices to Greece and Portugal. Since accommodation is pretty expensive, I would say that you can’t travel for less than:

a minimum of 25-30USD a day

Accommodation

Airbnb –  Definitely, the cheapest option for a couple. You can find double rooms for as little as 20USD.

Hostels –  The cheapest if you are backpacking solo but, honestly, they are pretty expensive for what you get. They are available throughout the country and prices range from 50ISL (14USD) to 75ISL (20USD).

Hotels –  Personally, I didn’t stay in any hotels, as private rooms were too expensive. Typically, you won’t find anything cheaper than 30USD or 40USD.

Please note that you can find further details on where I stayed further down, in the ”Travel Itinerary” section. 

Fast food is cheap but, if you want a bit of a change from shawarma and falafel, you will have to spend some more money.

• Street falafel –  3-5ISL (80¢ – 1.40USD)
• Shawarma –  8-15ISL (2.20USD – 4.10USD)
• Kebab –  10ISL (2.80USD) per piece
• Half a roast chicken with rice –  25ISL (7USD)
• Proper, good Palestinian meal –  40-75ISL (10-20USD)
• Beer in a bar –  15ISL – 25ISL (4-7USD)
• Beer in a store –  5ISL (1.40USD)

Transportation

These are the prices of some of the bus, mini-van and shared taxi journeys I took:

• Serveece (mini-van) from Hebron to Ramallah (53km)  – 27ISL (7.50USD)
• Bus from Ramallah to Nablus (52km)  – 11ISL (3USD)
• Shared taxi within the city of Bethlehem  – 3ISL (80¢)

Read: Guide for traveling to Iraqi Kurdistan – Everything you must know

🍲 Palestinian food!

Like its neighbor  Lebanon , Palestine is a Mediterranean country whose cuisine goes far beyond just shawarma and falafels, as many people believe.

From delicious fresh salads, including  hummus  and baba  ganouj , to more elaborate stews and roast dishes, where olive oil is king; if you can afford it, in Palestine, you can also enjoy your way through food.

These are some of my favorite dishes:

Makluba –  The Palestinian dish par by excellence. Apparently, there are many variations but the one we ate had chicken, rice, cauliflower and eggplant.  Makluba  literally means ” upside-down ”, because, when it’s being cooked, the chicken is placed at the bottom of the pan so, when it’s ready, you pour out the contents, leaving the chicken on top.

Msakhan –  It consists of roast chicken placed on an oily slice of bread and topped with chestnuts and loads and loads of onions. It’s quite a heavy meal, so Palestinians have it for lunch.

Fatteh – This is not only Palestinian but from all the Levantine region. it has flatbread, olive oil, yogurt, chickpeas and loads of nuts. It a super powerful breakfast. I freaking love it 😀

📍 Visiting Palestine: A 2-week backpacking itinerary through the West Bank

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I spent 40 days traveling in the West Bank and Jerusalem and still I couldn’t visit everything I wanted to. But I like to travel slowy, spending 3 or 4 days in each place.

That’s why, in my opinion, if you only have 2 weeks, the itinerary suggested below is totally feasible. The good news is that, since the region is pretty small, distances between each destination are short and quick.

Map of the Palestine 2-week travel itinerary

Jerusalem – Day 1-3

Why go? Today, Jerusalem is part of Israel but the eastern part of the city is completely inhabited by Arabs. If Palestine ever becomes an independent state, East Jerusalem would be capital of the country.

Being the holiest place for the three main monotheist religions (Christianity, Islam and Judaism) in Jerusalem, if you wanted, you could spend an entire eternity exploring and wandering around the Old City. I spent 10 days there myself but you only need a few days to visit the main sites.

Do you want to visit Jerusalem with a professional local guide? CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Things to do in Jerusalem – Highlights

Western Wall –  One of the most important landmarks in the city and a very holy place where, every day, thousands of Jews come to pray and venerate it. It is also called the  Wailing Wall   as, during the Ottoman period, Jews would go there and lament the destruction of the previously destroyed Temple Mount.

Church of the Holy Sepulcher –  Whether you are religious or not, the  Church of the Resurrection  is an impressive building, where, apparently, Jesus was crucified. You can also find his empty tomb, from where, according to Christians, he rose from the dead and ascended to heaven.

Temple Mount / Al-Haram ash-Sharif –  A real landmark, as this is one of the holiest places for both Jews and Muslims. The  Dome of the Rock  is believed to be the place from where Prophet Mohamed stepped to heaven. The last time I was there, in March 2017, it was only possible to visit in the morning.

Hang out at Yehuda Market and around –  For some reason, all travelers always finish their day at Yehuda Market, which is a regular market that, at night, turns into a bunch of small alleys where you can find budget food, beer and an awesome vibe, both local and international. Around this area, you can also find plenty of pubs and bars.  Location: 31.784976, 35.212340.

Mount of Olives –  According to the Bible, the  Mount of Olives  is the place where the Judgement Day will start. And not only that, it is also a great place to watch the sunset over the Dome of the Rock.

Where to stay in Jerusalem

Budget Hostel – Abraham Hostel – One of the most famous hostels in Jerusalem. Located in the center of the new part of the city, this hostel is the best place to socialize and meet other travelers alike. The owners are great and they organize all sort of activities: from endless tours to pub crawls and much more. This is one of the greatest hostels I have ever been to.

Mid-range Guest House – Allenby2 B&B   – This very cozy hotel has been here forever, with hundreds of positive reviews and a very central location. It has a lovely garden, very warm staff and free coffee and chocolate. Overall, a great option for mid-range travelers.

Mid-range Hotel – Hotel Hashimi – A pretty cool hotel in the heart of the Old City with stunning views to the Dome of the Rock. 

How to get from the airport to Jerusalem

There are two options. Bus nº485 costs 16ISL (7USD), departs every half an hour or so from the first floor and leaves you at the Central Station.

Sherut (shared mini-vans) cost 68ISL (19USD), depart more often, are faster and leave you closer to your final destination. During Shabat, bus nº485 doesn’t run.

Bethlehem – Day 3-4

Why go?  With hundreds of tour groups roaming around, Bethlehem doesn’t give the feeling that you are in the West Bank but, since this is the birthplace of Jesus, it is one of the most visited places in the Middle East.

Apart from all the Christian sites, this is a great place to easily get a close feeling of the consequences of the Israeli occupation.

Things to do in Bethlehem – Highlights

The Wall –  In 2001, after the Second Intifada, Israel started building a wall, 8 meters high, which would eventually separate Israel from the West Bank. In the center of Bethlehem, the wall is decorated with progressive and Pro-Palestinian paintings, including a real painting from Banksy. Note that most Banksy paintings are fake and the only real one is the white pigeon.

Aida Palestinian refugee camp –  In 1948, after the Israeli-Arab war, the Palestinians were expelled from their native land, being forced to settle down in several refugee camps across the West Bank and other neighboring, Arab countries. Aida is perhaps the most well-known camp, although, in my opinion, it is also the most commercialized. The wall is built right beside it and has some very cool graffiti on it.

Dheisheh Palestinian refugee camp –  Less visited and way more interesting than Aida, in Dheisheh, you will see the real picture of life in a Palestinian refugee camp. The camp also has loads of very interesting martyr paintings. Actually, I did an Airbnb stay here, one of the best traveling experiences in my life.

You can read about it here: Airbnb in a Palestinian refugee camp .

Please note: Both Aida and Dheisheh are extremely safe and foreigners are always welcome. There is no need to go on a tour unless you want someone to explain the history of the camp to you. Cameras are also welcome but, if taking any portrait, ask for permission first. I t’s a good idea to spend a few dollars at one of their shops or cafés. I’ve been to more than 10 refugee camps. Any question, feel free to ask.

The Church of Nativity and the Old City –  Well, you made it all the way to Bethlehem. Perhaps you should go to see the place where one of the most influential people in our human history was born, right? The entrance is free but try to get there early, otherwise, you’ll be standing in the line for hours. The old part the city is also worth spending a couple of hours in, wandering around the different souvenirs shops.

Mar Saba (Day trip) –  Constructed in an isolated desert valley during the 5th century, either carved into or built on the cliffs, Mar Saba is an Orthodox Christian monastery, considered one of the oldest inhabited monasteries in the world. Today, around 20 monks live at this impressive monastery and, the surprising fact is that they still live the same way their ancestors used to, meaning that there’s no electricity and cell phones.

Entrance to women is strictly forbidden but either way, you will spend 90% of your time outside of it. How to get to Mar Saba: Located 30km from Bethlehem, if you don’t want to take a taxi, you should take a mini-van to Ubeidiya (4ISL, 1.10USD) and from there, either hitchhike or walk the remaining 5-7 kilometers. Location:  31.704939, 35.331314 .

Where to stay in Bethlehem

Airbnb in Dheisheh –  Does it sound scary to you? It shouldn’t. Palestinian refugee camps have been going on over 60 years and, today, they have become mere city neighborhoods. If you really want to have an authentic and ultimate experience, you must stay here.

You can read my  whole experience on this link .

Budget Hostel – Habibi Hostel – This is, definitely, the best hostel in town. Great staff, cozy and clean rooms and a good location make this an excellent budget option in Bethlehem.

Mid-range Hotel – Walled Off Hotel (Banksy) – Located right in front of the separation wall, this famous, thematic hotel is inspired by the work of the artist Banksy. Staying here must be an awesome experience. They have both dorms and private rooms. Even if you don’t stay here, you can visit the museum. Everybody says that this is such an awesome hotel.

How to get from Jerusalem to Bethlehem

Buses leave all day from the station right in front of Damascus Gate, in the Old City of Jerusalem. It takes less than 1 hour but it all depends on the mood of the Israeli authorities when crossing the border. Cost: 7ISL (2USD).

Hebron – Day 5-6

Why go? One of the most interesting places to visit in Palestine but also, the most troubled. Hebron is the only city where Jewish settlements are within the city itself. The tension is extreme, which can be seen at every corner of the city. The Mosque and Synagogue at the Cave of the Patriarchs, one of the holiest sites for both Jews and Muslims, are separated by bulletproof glass. It’s insane.

There is so much to say about this. I’ve written a full article about it: Visiting Hebron, the most troubled city in Palestine

Do you want to visit Hebron with a passionate, professional local guide, who will tell you everything about the political situation? CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Things to do in Hebron – Highlights

Arab side (H1) – What used to be a busy market, full of joy and happiness, is today nothing but a semi-abandoned area, whose inhabitants can’t avoid expressing their hatred of the settlers. The old Arab quarter is full of deserted streets with random walls placed in the middle of them by the Israeli authorities. Most of the windows are protected to prevent the settlers from throwing objects at them.

Mosque and Synagogue of the Cave of the Patriarchs – A very holy place for both Arabs and Jews, this is the place where Abraham, one of the most important figures for both religions, is buried. His tomb is located right in between the synagogue and the mosque, separated by bulletproof glass. Crazy.

Jewish Side (H2) –  It’s also important to go and see how the settlers live. I suggest you go there and try to talk with an Israeli. Many of them, will be happy to share their side of the story with you, as they also want to end with their international bad reputation.

Remember to check my article for further info:  Visiting Hebron, the most troubled city in Palestine

Herbawi Kuffiya factory – In Palestine, there is the first and only kuffiya factory (Palestinian scarf) that has ever existed in Palestine. For further details, read this post: The Art of the Palestinian scarf – Visiting the kuffiya factory in Hebron .

Where to stay in Hebron

Budget Hostel – Hostel Hebron – The most popular hostel in Hebron. With a set of pretty new facilities and awesome reviews, this hostel is located next to the old city.

Mid-range Hotel – Queen Plaza – If you don’t want to stay in a hostel, Queen Plaza is the most popular mid-range option in town and has very good reviews.

Couchsurfing at Mo’s  – Mo is a Palestinian who has hosted over hundreds of people in Hebron. He was more than happy to be included in my guide Meeting Mo was one of the highlights of my trip!

How to get from Bethlehem to Hebron

Buses leave from the station which is closer to Hebron Road. Here: 31.709617, 35.199298 . Price: 9ISL ($2.50).

Ramallah – Day 7-8

Why go? Home to a large expat community, Ramallah is a cosmopolitan city where you can hang out for few days in its numerous pubs and restaurants, besides visiting Yasser’s Arafat’s Tomb and the Historical Museum. Ramallah will definitely surprise you.

Things to do in Ramallah – Highlights

The Mausoleum and Museum – The place where the former President Yasser Arafat is buried and also a Historical Museum that showcases the story of Palestine from the Israeli-Palestinian conflict perspective.

Taybeh brewery (Day Trip) – Yes, a brewery!Located in Taybeh, the town with the largest proportion of Christians, this is the first micro-brewery ever founded in Palestine. In the mornings, they offer free tours and a beer tasting for free. You can also buy additional beers at 7ISL (2USD) per bottle.

How to get to Taybeh: Mini-vans leave from the main station and cost 7ISL (2USD). It’s a very small village, so you’ll find the microbrewery easily.

Nightlife in Ramallah – A visit to Ramallah is not complete without getting drank at any of its many bars and pubs. The locals recommended Garage, Fuego and Sangria’s to me.

Where to stay in Ramallah

Budget Hostel –   Hostel In Ramallah – A cool hostel located in the city center with which is run by two brothers. Dorm mattresses are pretty comfy and they also have private rooms for couples. There’s a cool, friendly atmosphere. The breakfast is quite poor though and, at night, for a couple of USD, they cook a special dinner with products from their own farm.

Super Budget Hostel – Area D Hostel – For the most budget backpackers, Area D is a pretty popular hostel. Unlike the other two, this one is located near Ramallah Park Terminus, with great views of the mosque and its minarets.

Mid-range hotel – Lavender Boutique Hotel – For travelers with a mid-range budget, this hotel seems pretty decent and a great choice.

How to get from Hebron to Ramallah

From the main bus station in Hebron (Location: 31.528543, 35.095612), mini-vans leave all day long. Price: 27ISL (7.50USD), for a 53km trip.

Nablus – Day 9-10

Things to do in nablus – highlights.

Why go? Located in a beautiful valley between Mount Ebal and Gerizim, Nablus is a real off the beaten track destination, home to, perhaps, the most beautiful Old City in the Middle East, with plenty of narrow alleys filled with sweet and olive oil shops. Nablus is a vibrant Muslim city and the authentic Palestine where you will find the friendliest locals and the best food.

The Old City – Wandering around the huge Old Town (Qasaba) is definitely the highlight of any trip to Nablus. And guess what. Around the alleys of Qasaba you will also find the most colorful job in the Middle East.

Kunafeh! – Kunafeh , oh… yes! This dangerously delicious cheese-based pastry with orange syrup on top that can be found across the country is originally from Nablus and, Al-Aksa, a shop located in the Old City, serves what is considered the best kunafeh in Palestine and, of course, in the world. A piece of kunafeh typically costs 5ISL (1.40USD). If you don’t eat kunafeh , you haven’t visited Palestine.

Samaritans – According to the Samaritans, Mt Gerizim, one of the mountains that form the valley around Nablus, was the first piece of land that was ever created. The Samaritans are a religious group which is very close to Judaism, even though they don’t like people to say that.

The largest community of Samaritans in the world are in Nablus and they live in peace with their Muslim neighbors. They live at the top of Mt Gerizim, where you can find a museum explaining their history, and the only liquor store in town! Location:  32.200556, 35.273333.

Where to stay in Nablus

Budget – Success Hostel – The most backpacking-friendly hostel in Nablus. Located in the city center, it has relatively fancy rooms, given the fact that it’s a hostel. The best option for budget travelers.

Mid-range –   Khan Alwakala Hotel – This may be the most beautiful hotel you have ever stayed in Palestine, as it’s located in such a beautiful building which has been restored by the UNESCO. The rooms and facilities are great and despite being such a nice hotel, it’s not that expensive and perfect for mid-range travelers.

How to get from Nablus to Ramallah

We took a big bus from the main station and paid only 11ISL (3USD) for a 52km ride.

Jericho – Day 11-14

Why go?  At 400 meters below sea level, this is considered the lowest city on Earth and, with 10,000 years of history, it is also the oldest inhabited city in the world. Disturbingly hot in summer but pleasant in winter, Jericho is a desert city with the largest number of touristic sites ranging from stunning Christian monasteries to ancient ruins, awesome hikes, a Bedouin culture and the gate to the Dead Sea, although it is not under Palestinian control but Israel’s.

If you are short in time and want to visit Jericho , you can book one of GetYourGuide tours. CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Things to do in Jericho – Highlights

Saint George Koziba monastery – Located in Wadi Quelt, this is another beautiful Greek Orthodox monastery carved into the rocks. The entrance is free but I recommend you go there early, before the place gets filled with endless pilgrims and tourists. Dress modestly, otherwise, you won’t be allowed to get in. Inside the monastery, they offer water, tea and coffee, for free.

Trekking to Wadi Qelt – Wadi Qelt is a valley that connects Jericho with Jerusalem. Around 10km after Jericho, there are some natural springs that make an excellent day trek through rolling arid hills, Bedouin camps and striking views of the valley. Some parts of the springs are deep enough to swim in. On weekends, you might find some groups of Palestinians enjoying a picnic day. Of course, expect invitations to join them.

Monastery of Temptation – Apparently, this is the place where Jesus spent 40 days and 40 nights meditating and fasting during the temptation of Satan. Today, instead, you can find another Greek Orthodox monastery which is the third architectural masterpiece built on a cliff. From the monastery, you get awesome views of Jericho, the Dead Sea and the mountains of Jordan. You can easily walk to the top but, for 30ISL (8USD), you can also go up by cable car.

Hisham’s Palace – Constructed in the 8th Century (arguably), these Islamic ruins were just the second residence of some kings but they contain some of the most well-preserved Islamic mosaics that have ever been discovered. The entrance ticket is 10ISL (2.70USD).

Where to stay in Jericho

Budget Hostel – Sami Hostel – Not the best hostel ever but it is definitely the cheapest choice. It is located in Jericho’s refugee camp, a bit out of the way but there is a direct bus that runs every couple of minutes. The owner is OK and there are many backpackers. 

Nicer – AubergInn – Pricier but the location is excellent and it is one of the best-punctuated hostels in town. It’s run by a lovely local family and it even has a pool, which gives it quite an edge, given the fact that Jericho is one of the hottest places in the world.

Extending your itinerary

Jenin (2 extra days).

Why go?  The least visited part of Palestine, Jenin is a cozy, little city with a beautiful old town, surrounded by beautiful green scenery.

Things to see in Jenin 

Besides wandering around the old town, in Jenin, there is also a refugee camp where foreigners are more than welcome. Inside the camp, there is a famous NGO called the Freedom Theater , where you can volunteer, even for a short period of time of 1 or 2 weeks. In the hostel where I stayed, I was the only person who was not volunteering there. You can find more information about the NGO here .

Where to stay in Jenin

NGO Hostel – Cinema Guest House – As far as I know, this is the only guest house in town. Like I said, most guests are volunteers working at the Freedom Theater. It’s OK for a few nights and there’s a nice atmosphere. However, I think it’s quite pricey for what you get.

How to get to Jenin

From Nablus, we took a direct bus for just 10ISL (2.70USD), 50km.

Zababdeh (2 extra days)

Why go? This barely visited part of Palestine is home to the most beautiful scenery in the region, composed of green rolling hills, olive oil trees and where you’ll be likely to see wild turtles. In Zababdeh, we also had an unexpected, peculiar experience. Read more below on ” Where to stay section ”.

Things to see in Zababdeh 

Besides visiting the church built on the place where, supposedly, the Virgin Mary spent one night on her way to Bethlehem, Zababdeh is the place from where to go on short day hikes through mountain villages, fields and green rolling hills. I recommend you go hiking around Raba, a village located 6km from Zababdeh.

Where to stay in Zababdeh

When traveling in Palestine I heard of someone called Father Firas, who was a Christian priest from Zababdeh. I was told he liked to host foreigners at his church, so I decided to give him a call. Father Firaz is not only a priest but a man with a lot of influence throughout the region.

For the last few years, he has been trying to build bridges with Israel through meeting people and getting contacts from all over the world.

He is a wise man from whom you will learn a lot about the conflict between Israel and Palestine. We spent 3 nights at his church and he blessed us with tremendous hospitality. I can’t recommend Father Firas’ guest house highly enough.

Note that you don’t need to be a religious person to stay at his house but just someone interested in the conflict and history of the country. Several journalists and writers have stayed here. There is no fixed price and he will tell you to pay as much as you want.

Contact him at [email protected] or [email protected]. Phone number: +972599789282. When you arrive in Zababdeh, just ask for Father Firas. Everybody knows him.

How to get to Zababdeh

Zababdeh is only 10km from Jenin, from where you can take a mini-van for just 5ISL (1.40USD).

Qalqilya (1 day)

Why go? If you are interested in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, after Hebron , this is a super interesting place, since this is the village most affected by the construction of the separation wall, as it practically surrounds the whole community, completely drowning its economy.

Many fields owned by Palestinians were left on the other side of the wall, so the Palestinian farmers have to go through insane security checks every single day.

If this was not enough, the different checkpoints are only open during certain, alternate hours a day, so quite often, the Palestinian farmers have to wait for hours at their fields before they can go back home.

The saddest part is that Qalqilya doesn’t receive the international attention that Bethlehem does, so instead of having a wall filled with cool Banksy paintings, there you just find an 8 meters gray, sad, concrete wall, 8-meters high.

How to get to Qalqilya

You can easily go by bus from Nablus on a day trip. That’s what I did.

❗ More information for visiting Palestine

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Tours – I always encourage independent travel but, if you are short in time, or just feel safer with a local guide, there are loads of tours available, and I recommend you book them via GetYourguide , as you can book them with just one click, have free cancellation, and always count with professional local guides. 

For Palestine: CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL THE AVAILABLE TOURS

For Israel:  CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL THE AVAILABLE TOURS

All guides and articles for traveling in Palestine destination

• A City Guide to Gaza
• Travel Guide to Hebron
• A Guide to Kuffiya Factory in Hebron
• Palestinian Refugee Camp in Bethlehem
• Things to know about Palestine

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

• Iran Travel Guide
• Iraq Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Oman
• Travel Guide to Lebanon
• Syria Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
• Yemen Travel Guide

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East .

39 comments

Thanks for writing this is a super helpful post. I just wanted to ask some questions:

1. If you’re coming from Israel, I assume you took Qalandia border crossing in? If you did, how was your experience there? 2. Do the officers at the border crossings/ airports ask you a lot of questions for staying in Palestine for so long? 3. I think I read somewhere in your blog that you’ve lived in Dubai for a while, and you may or may not be able to speak Arabic. So did you have any trouble understanding Palestinian Arabic as it was spoken on the street?

Hi, thank you for your comment. My answers: 1 – I entered from Jerusalem but, when I went to Qalandia, I re-entered Israel just to see how was there, as the border in Qalandia is the most fucked up border. In Jerusalem it was super smooth but in Qalandoa, it was very slow 2 – They do ask some questions but you just tell them the truth and it’s all right. 3 – I don’t understand Arabic but a lot of Palestinians speak English

Thanks for the info! Hopefully I can repeat your itinerary soon 🙂

No problem, any time!

Awesome article man, a side of the world rarely seen. Keep them coming 🙂

Thanks, man!

Stumbled on this article while searching for travel agencies in Palestine, and just got way more information about the country than I probably would on wikipedia. Good job, the world needs to know about this beautiful country and their people and it’s good to know that freelance journalist like yourself are taking the trouble to visit there and bring us this formation. We are in the middle of launching a company for everything related to tours and hopefully maybe we’d be able to partner or work with you in some sort way. I’ve subscribed to follow up comments will be coming back to check up.

Hello, I might be interested in working with a tourist agency in Palestine. Please, email me at [email protected]

Hi, this an interesting article. You have described very well. The really descriptive post you have shared with us.

Thanks so much for this information! It was a great resource for me. I just would like to suggest revising your bus/serveece prices because they are not accurate. Bus from Jerusalem (Damascus Gate) to Bethlehem is only 7 shekels. Serveece from Bethlehem to Hebron is 9 shekels. Palestine is an amazing place with incredibly friendly people. I hope to go back sometime soon so I can get through all of the other stuff on your list! Cheers

I am glad you enjoyed Palestine and its people. They are awesome! And thank you so much for your correction, I just updated it accordingly 🙂 Cheers,

Hi! Thank you so much for sharing this comprehensive itinerary and background. Palestine is a region I have been dreaming of visiting all my life and hope to do so this year, but I have been contemplating whether to join an organized tour or plan this out all on my own. The tours are quite pricey, but it definitely saves the hassle of coordinating visas, transportation, and general travel and accommodation. I am a female and will likely travel with my brother and maybe others. With that in mind, think it might work best like you suggest to do some parts with a tour company while spending more time in areas I am interested in on my own. How much would you say your two week itinerary costed you overall?

Hello, I spent around 25-30USD a day. I travel independently, always sleep in the most budget hotels/hostels (15USD a day) and eat at local places. If you want to stay in mid-range places and hire a guide it will be significantly more expensive.

Hi Joam Thank’s for sharing. I will go there soon on a revisit together with my 6 year old son, and we will probably stay only in Palestine. Since you love off-the-beaten-track places you will probably like my site, too: https://www.traveltwins.dk/ Best, Anders

Good luck in the West Bank and thanks for the suggestion!

This was fantastic to read. Thanks so much for sharing! I’m looking to go here and Israel this year, and it’s so nice to see this type of perspective written on the West Bank. This just makes me more excited to go! Thanks for taking the time to write all this up!

Hi Ellie, thanks for your kind comment! I am glad you find it useful. There is so much to exñore beyond Bethlehem and historical sites in Jericho. Have a wonderful trip there!

Loved it!! Very informative.

Love the way you travel 🙂 very nice and beautiful pictures!

Thank you 🙂

awesome! loved this post

cheers, enjoy Palestine!

Hello buddy, this was a great piece to read and very informative. It answered many of my questions.

However, I have few questions which hopefully you would be able to answer. If I land in Israel at Tel Aviv with an Indian passport and then need to go West Bank, then which check points or immigration centres do I have to use and clear. Also when rerurning back from West Bank to Israel, how many check points or immigration centers I have to clear so I can reach back to tel aviv airport easily.

Either way, there is only one checkpoint when entering the west bank and one when you get out. Most of the times, the checkpoint is very quick. It is seriously not a big deal.

Thanks for the quick response. Really interesting what you are doing by visiting these amazing palces which are not covered well by the media and tourism industry. So what is next on your bucket list?

First of all thank you very much for a wonderful 2 weeks tour itinerary for Palestine. I very rarely been to Arab and African countries so far, but I have plans to tour around Africa region in near future. Your complete tour itinerary for Palestine helps me to grab some ideas for my next tour, in between the photos look great. Cheers,

Very informative article ! Could you also please let us know more about the local Vegetarian/Vegan Food availability and recommendations ?

falafels, hummus, fateh… There are always many options

Thanks and very informative. We are group of 4 Chinese ladies and we want to visit Nablus Jacob’s well etc. Do u know if it is fine for us to visit on our own without a guide?

If your question is related to safety in Palestine, yes, you will be totally fine 🙂

Hello! Great post! Just a quick question, if I were to cross the King Hussein/Allenby border from Jordan, would it make sense to go to Jericho first? Is there a way to get to Jericho from the border without having to go to Jerusalem? Thanks!

Hey Maddie, yes of course, Jericho is extremely close to the border, and for very little money, you can get a taxi

I’m so glad to have come across your article!! So I’m originally Palestinian and planning my first trip ever this July. I’ll be traveling with my husband who will have to enter through the boarder and not airport. We only have 5 days what would you recommend we must visit while maximizing short stopovers on the way like stopping by Jericho since it’s close to border. We don’t mind splurging on this trip as I’ve been waiting for over 3 decades to be granted entry to Palestine. Thank you in advance

Dude your work is awesome and so helpful thank you. Do you have an Instagram account?

Hi Nimr, thanks! My IG account is @againstthecompass

Free palestine 🇵🇸🇵🇸 from the river to the sea from israeli colonialism

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GETTING INTO PALESTINE

Both Palestinian territories – the West Bank and Gaza – are confined by a large, military separation wall which allows Israeli forces to control what, and who, goes in and out. If you wish to enter or exit either of the territories, be you foreign or Palestinian, you will first have to successfully pass through checkpoints controlled by the Israeli military.

There are no direct flights to either the West Bank or Gaza. In 2000 the airport at Qalandia was closed for civilian travel and the Israeli Defence Forces took over control.

Instead, you must fly to either an Israeli airport or that of a neighbouring country (such as Jordan) before entering via an Israeli checkpoint.

Flying to Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv, Israel is the fastest, ‘easiest’ way to enter either the West Bank or Gaza. However, the vast majority of Palestinian nationals possess only a green identification card and not a blue one. This forbids them from entering any area now considered to be Israel. Therefore, most Palestinians living in the West Bank that wish to travel must do so via Jordan.

• WhatsApp I Signal I Telegram +972598172071
• Info@gopalestine.org

The Palestinian Center

For Education & Cultural Exchange

How to Visit Palestine?

Those who are planning to visit Palestine often ask: How do I get to Palestine/West Bank? What airport do I fly to? How do I get a visa to Palestine? In the following lines, we will answer these questions and put your fears to rest.

To even the most seasoned traveler, the idea of passing through Israeli checkpoints to enter occupied Palestine (the West Bank) is intimidating. Most international travelers, however, are able to enter easily, and, once you are inside the West Bank , you can make your own way to the all Palestinian cities you might visit during your stay in Palestine, with relative ease.

The first decision to be made is the choice of first point of entry. We recommend two options for entering Palestine:

( A) Via Ben Gurion Airport – highly recommended as it saves time and money.

Flying to Ben Gurion (Tel Aviv) is the easiest point of arrival in our opinion. Most Americans and Europeans are issued a 3-month visa upon arrival and clearing customs.

Once you are in the airport, you have two options to enter Palestine (the West Bank):

Option 1: By Shared Taxi

Heading to jerusalem (around 45 minutes).

If you desire to visit Jerusalem you need to ride the shared taxi one which drives straight into Jerusalem. Sheruts (or Services in the West Bank) do not leave for their destinations until they are full, but this generally does not take long! These depart from outside the Ben Gurion Airport arrivals hall. They deliver you directly to your destination in Jerusalem, and should cost about 60-70 shekels (NIS – New Israeli Shekels) (approximately $20).

Internationals traveling to Hebron or other cities in the West Bank should ask to be let off at the Old City of Jerusalem’s Damascus Gate , which is near the old Arab bus station (there are 2 bus stations: the old Arab bus station, and the new Arab Bus station). With the Damascus Gate behind you, the old Arab bus station will be to your right. Walk to the intersection straight ahead of you from the Damascus Gate, cross the intersection, then turn right and walk about 2-3 blocks. The bus station is next to the café with the green neon lights.

Heading to Bethlehem (Around 45 minutes)

If you are visiting Bethlehem , you may take a bus which is found at the old Arab bus station, Damascus Gate, in Jerusalem. You should look for Bus Number 231 to Bethlehem . These buses depart frequently, and the trip from Jerusalem to Bethlehem should take about 45 minutes and cost about seven shekels.

You should stay on the bus until the last stop which is Bethlehem. Although unlikely, there is the possibility that you might have to get off the bus and walk through the checkpoint into Bethlehem. If this is the case, there should be services (shared taxis in Arabic) traveling directly to Hebron. From just inside this checkpoint, Bethlehem’s city center, there are taxis that will go to the Hebron Road/Beit Jala junction (in Arabic, ‘’Bab Azqaq’’) .

Heading to Hebron (Two options)

If you want to visit Hebron there are two options. Option 1 to Hebron from Bethlehem will take about 40 minutes. Upon arrival in Bethlehem, you will likely be greeted by numerous taxi drivers. You may take a private taxi for about $25 (not more than 100 NIS) the rest of the way to Hebron, OR , as we highly recommend, you should walk straight ahead to the main intersection of Beit Jala and Hebron Roads. Here the Services shared taxis, depart from the right side of the street.

The bus station in Bethlehem is usually filled with many yellow Services – they look like minivans. Just ask for the Service to Hebron. The bus to Hebron generally costs about nine shekels (9 NIS). Tell the bus driver where you are headed in Hebron, and he may well drop you off at that specific place if it is along the main route. Otherwise, stay on the bus or Service until it stops at the city center to let everyone off; from there take a private taxi for no more than 10 shekels to the place you want to visit.

Option 2 from Jerusalem allows you to take a Service. The Services are yellow minivans and are usually parked in the busy market area across from the Damascus Gate. The drivers can be heard shouting: “Al Khalil! Al Khalil! (Arabic for Hebron). The cost for one of these will be about 25-35 NIS and the trip should take about 50 minutes. Board the Service, and wait for it to fill up and leave.

Option 2: Private Taxi

If you want to get to your destination by using a private taxi , we can organize a taxi to pick you up at Ben-Gurion Airport. It will take you straight to any destination you desire. This is the easiest and fastest way to get to any of the Palestinian cities; however, this option is quite costly. Please contact us if you are interested in this option.

(B) Entering Palestine from Jordan – costly and takes much time.

From Jordan , the journey into Palestine is significantly longer, and it may well involve lengthy delays, several hours possibly, at the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge . Once you are through the checkpoint, however, you find a shared or private taxi that will take you the rest of the way directly to Jerusalem, Ramallah, Hebron, Nablus, or any other towns.

Traveling to Palestine through the Allenby Bridge (Israeli)/King Hussein Bridge (Jordanian) is something you should try to equip yourself for before your arrival in Jordan. Be prepared to not have anyone communicate with you in English at each of the three borders you have to travel through in order to get into Palestine.

Journeying direct from Amman International Airport (Queen Alia) in Jordan takes roughly an hour. It will cost about 30 JDs (Jordanian Dinars). At the border, the procedure is fairly forthright, but if you carry a foreign passport make sure you ask for directions to the foreign passport checkpoint, and , out of the two buses that take you to the Israeli border, make sure you board the one for foreign passengers.

If you don’t know where the bus for foreign passengers is located, you can ask any person around you. Once on the bus, it can take up to 40 minutes to get from the Jordanian checkpoint to the Israeli checkpoint. It all depends on how long it takes to fill the bus up and the drive over the bridge.

Once you arrive at the Israeli border, collect your baggage and follow the crowd or ask for directions to where you can get your bag tagged, ready for it to be taken away and checked. You will again have to go through basic border control procedures and passport checking, where you may or may not be asked to wait for your details to be verified. Your passport might be held for a number of reasons, and the staff at the Israeli border control are not too keen on explaining why, so it is best not to ask and instead wait it out.

After you leave the Israeli border, you will find shared taxis waiting for you. These Services will take you to Jerusalem. If you are going to other West Bank cities besides Jerusalem, you need to ride another bus to the Palestinian border. Once you are at the border you will find many shared taxis that go to all Palestinian cities. A shared taxi from there will cost you about 35 shekels to Nablus, and about 50 to Hebron or Ramallah.

Concluding Remarks

Although these detailed directions might seem overwhelming, you should remember that the people you will meet on this journey are, overall, extremely welcoming and eager to help! Most of these people will speak English, and they are very eager to enjoy the company of an international visitor and to impart a positive impression of their homeland upon an international. You will very quickly become comfortable with the transportation modes between the cities in Palestine. Our advice? Embrace the journey’s adventure and all the friends you will meet along the way!

Important Information

• There are ATMs at Ben Gurion to receive NIS/shekels . Don’t worry if you see only the Hebrew language on the ATM – as soon as you insert your ATM card, a menu will appear asking you what language you desire.
• The visa that you receive at Ben Gurion is a 3-month visa and it is valid for Israel and Palestine (West Bank).
• Being stopped at Israeli checkpoints is a fairly routine affair. You will be asked for your passport and visa stamped on the passport and then sent on your way.
• We recommend that you always use a shared taxi/Service (pronounced sair-vees) , especially in Jerusalem or Bethlehem. Not only will you pay less, but you will have the company of other passengers. Private taxis can cost 10 or even 15 times more than a Service. In Palestinian cities, a private taxi fare is an appropriate 2 to 15 shekels, not more than 15.
• Many people speak English in Palestine so that you do not have to speak Arabic to get around. Of course, if you try in Arabic, people will be so pleased!
• A former teacher also advises: get yourself a good guidebook, such as Lonely Planet’s Guide to Israel and the Palestinian Territories before you come to Hebron. Not only will the guidebook provide much useful information, but it comes with a map in your native language. Remember: once here the maps will be in Arabic or Hebrew!
• Do NOT be shy about asking for help . Palestinians are super friendly and are eager to help out!
• Do NOT be shy if you need to use someone’s cell phone. Ask anyone around you for the use of their cell and don’t be surprised if they make the call for you! People will not tell you no. If you appear confused, it is quite possible that a cell will be offered to you and/or the call made for you!

Palestine: Comprehensive Travel Guide 2024 & 11-day Itinerary

• On Oct 8, 2023

This ultimate travel guide to Palestine (West Bank) is everything you need to know for an independent trip to the most interesting places in Palestine. Read our 11 days Palestine itinerary with detailed descriptions of transportation, including the exact shared taxi locations, prices, where to stay, including refugee camps, how to cross the checkpoints, safety in Palestine and many other valuable tips.

I wrote this post to include everything you need to know before you travel to Palestine with confidence and knowledge of what to expect. Consider this as your best travel guide to Palestine.

We always wanted to visit Palestine but were hesitant to go through Israel with a passport full of stamps from other Middle Eastern countries. However, after travelling through Egypt and wondering where to go next, we decided to  cross the Taba border from Egypt to Israel  and continue to Palestine. 

Since, at that time, we were travelling more than a year in a row, we couldn’t swap our passports. We had to use the ones with stamps from Lebanon, Syria, Iraq and other interesting countries, and that’s why we ended up being detained and questioned at the Taba border by Israeli officers for 5 hours. However, since you’re reading this Palestine travel guide, it is clear we successfully made it, so now it’s time to show you that Palestine is a land worth visiting.

WARNING! October 2023: The ongoing war between Israel and the Gaza Strip is currently taking place, and before you travel to the West Bank, it is necessary to seek the most updated information. The conflict does not hit West Bank, but high tension is expected.

WHY VISIT PALESTINE

Where there is a conflict, there might be hope and soon a solution. However, this is not the case in the long-lasting Israeli-Palestine conflict. To understand better the situation in Palestine, you need to get off the trail. You need to stay with people in refugee camps. Listen to their stories. Have coffee with strangers and talk. Listen. Only after that we realised how hopeless the situation in the occupied land of Palestine is. It is an emotionally draining, eye-opening journey that we recommend you embark on. 

We rate visiting Palestine high on our list of favourite countries, as it left a big impact on our hearts. And apart from the bad things happening there, Palestine deserves attention because of its rich history, delicious cousin, breathtaking monasteries and because of the people who are amongst the most hospitable people on earth.

We recommend you check our  stories on our Instagram Brokennavigation_  where we documented our journey through Palestine in detail.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

• Religion:  Palestine is a Muslim country with a majority of Sunni Muslims. As in other countries of the Middle East, people are very welcoming and hospitable. They really want to talk about life in Palestine and are very happy to meet foreigners and invite you for tea. Even though I just said that the majority of people in Palestine are Sunni Muslims, Christianity here plays a significant role. Especially in Bethlehem and also in Ramallah and Jericho. Would you expect to find a local brewery here?
• Language:  official language in Palestine is Arabic. We found it very pleasant to travel around Palestine as most people we met spoke at least basic English; therefore, it was very easy to communicate. 
• Currency : The currency in Palestine is the Israeli Shekel. 1$ = 3.58 ILS.
• Visa: You don’t need a visa to visit Palestine; however, you must show your passport and the Israeli immigration slip you got once you entered Israel.

Interested in the Middle East? Read our guides from Syria, Iraq, Lebanon and more.

SAFETY AND SITUATION IN PALESTINE

Israel has occupied Palestine since 1967, and the situation is only getting worse with Israel building more and more Jewish settlements in Palestinian territory. Basically, Palestinians have no way to fight back because as soon as they try, the Israeli army attacks back with much more power. Does this fact affect your travel? Yes and no. Yes, because the land is very sensitive, and riots are happening on a daily basis, especially if you decide to  stay in a refugee camp  with local families. All the army attacks on Palestinian people occur at night and early in the morning. Therefore, try to avoid being outside at that time.

During our time in Palestine, we were informed by local people that there is daily shooting in refugee camps and dangerous situations for Palestinians happening. We personally did not see anything dangerous, and we did not go out at night & very early morning. We felt very safe and welcomed.

Palestine territory is divided into the West Bank and Gaza Strip. Gaza Strip is absolutely off-limits to tourists; therefore, all travel guides we wrote about Palestine refer solely to the West Bank territory.

Essential reading: Is it safe to visit Palestine? Our experience. (Coming soon)

Israel also limits the water supply for Palestine since the reservoir is on Israeli territory. They open the water for Palestinians only two days per month. That’s why you will see many water tanks on the rooftops of houses. Because they have to collect rainwater and in those two days when they have the water they collect as much as possible.

Electricity & Internet works well everywhere we have been in Palestine. Use VPN for accessibility to certain sites.

SNIPERS AT BUS STOPS

When travelling in Palestine, get used to seeing snipers behind the barriers, either made of sandbags or bulletproof glass. They are usually located close to where the Israeli settlers live, next to the bus stations. They point their huge gun directly at incoming cars. Sitting in a car and seeing the soldier pointing a gun at you is a super weird feeling. They are protecting the settlers from potential attacks from Palestinians. Notice the huge red signs close to the Jewish settlements that state: ,,This road leads to Area A Under the Palestinian Authority. The entrance for Israeli citizens is forbidden, dangerous to your lives and against Israeli law” . So even if Israelis would like to go and see Palestine themselves. They can not, as they are told it is dangerous for their lives.

Travel Insurance for palestine

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CHECKPOINTS

Going through checkpoints is very easy for foreigners. Basically, in most checkpoints between Israel and Palestine, when going in the direction of Palestine, you just freely walk through without any special check. If you want to go from Palestine to Israel, that’s a different story, though. 

Overall, there are more than 100 checkpoints across Palestine and roadblocks to separate new roads, which only Israeli cars can use, from the old and not repaired roads only for Palestinian cars. You will also see the separation wall in Bethlehem, that most likely will leave you emotional with all the powerful graffiti on it. Palestinians say it is to segregate them from the rest of Israel and limit their free movement. Israel claims it is for the safety and preventing the terrorist attack. Come and see yourself. We travelled around Palestine independently to see with our own eyes what was happening. We talked with people to learn their points of view.

CHECKPOINT 300 – JERUSALEM TO BETHLEHEM

The first checkpoint we crossed was between Jerusalem into Bethlehem. Checkpoint 300. Located South of Jerusalem by the entrance to Rachel’s tomb. This checkpoint is used for Palestinians who are permitted to cross into Jerusalem. If going in the direction from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, it is very easy. You go through the concrete tunnel with multiple one-way gates. There are no officers to check anything as you are going into Palestine, and no one care. If you go in the opposite direction, then officers will check your documents. And for Palestinians, they check their permit. From what we heard, frequent harassment towards Palestinians is happening on these borders. They let them wait for hours.

After we got out into Palestine, there were many taxi drivers. Some of them immediately started chatting with us. Even though they are not used to many tourists coming independently through this checkpoint, they tried to rip us off by asking for crazy amounts of money. That surprised us a bit. Don’t get me wrong. Palestinians are lovely and hospitable people; however, but as elsewhere, be careful about the taxi drivers as they will try to rip you off in many places in Palestine. You don’t need a taxi if you want to explore the separation wall and reach The Walled Off Hotel. You can easily walk as it is an easy 800 m walk from Checkpoint 300. This checkpoint is open 24/7.

JALAMEK/ EMEK HAROD CHECKPOINT – JENIN TO NAZARETH

Another checkpoint in Palestine we crossed was Jalamek Checkpoint from Jenin to Nazareth. We used this checkpoint on our last day in Palestine to cross into Israel (Nazareth). I have to say; the Jalamek checkpoint was the worst border crossing / Checkpoint we have ever experienced. The way Israeli officers act here is unthinkable. They are rude, humiliate people and make you feel like nothing. Here, the checkpoint is open only at certain times. We arrived here at 2pm, and it was closed. We and other Palestinians waited an hour, and at 3pm, they finally opened the gate. Be careful; it is open only for some time and then closed again. The best way to find out is to ask locals. We were told the checkpoint is open from 2pm, but as you see, they did not open till 3pm. Then the queue was already quite long; we were between the first ones who got through the gate. We recommend you have your bag carefully packed and prepared and have documents handy. As soon as the gate opens, people start rushing and pushing you from behind. Everything goes very fast and hectic. First, you have to send your luggage through the x-ray check, your jacket as well, belt etc. It is a similar procedure to the security check at the airport. We did not expect that. And there was very little space, people were rushing, and we had to pick up our bags quickly & forgot our bag with food there as it was super hectic. Then we continued through the designated path until we reached the officer in a stall behind bulletproof glass. From the second floor, there was an officer with a gun pointing at people. Super weird situation. They checked our passports and took them.

We were asked to go aside, and after a few minutes, the officer & armed guard came to question us. What we did in Jenin was their biggest concern. We said we did not go to Jenin but to Nablus. This was partially true as we slept in Nablus and Jenin we visited when we went through on the way to the border. Why do you go to Israel? What you’re going to do? We showed our itinerary for Israel, explained we were travellers, and they let us go through after a few minutes. Overall, this checkpoint with waiting for opening took 2 hours. Even though the experience here was awful, I recommend anyone to cross this border to see with their own eyes how the officers act towards others. 

CHECKPOINTS IN HEBRON

When visiting Hebron, you will go through multiple checkpoints. Hebron is divided into two areas known as Area H1, which is under the control of Palestinians and Area H2, which is Israeli controlled area. Both crossings are in the Middle of the city. The tension between those two areas is huge as the checkpoints separate the Al-Ibrahimi Mosque (Holy site for Muslims) from the Cave of Patriarchs (holy site for Jews). One building. Two checkpoints. 

CHECKPOINT TO AL IBRAHIMI MOSQUE

Basically, to enter the Al Ibrahimi Mosque, you go through 2 checkpoints. In both of them, they ask where you are from, why you are here and if you have any weapon. The officers let people go through a one-way gate only one by one. So when the light is green, you can go. Otherwise, you wait in a queue. 

CHECKPOINT TO CAVE OF PATRIARCH

To enter the Cave of Patriarch, you return to the main street (in front of the first checkpoint you crossed) and make your way toward the checkpoint that leads into the Cave of Patriarchs. Here you have to answer the same questions, and you also will be asked about your religion. We said we are Christians. Entry for Muslims is forbidden here.

CHECKPOINTS IN H2 AREA – ISRAELI TERRITORY

After visiting the synagogue, we walked around the area H2, which is under Israeli control. It is basically a dead city with a huge military presence. No Palestinians can set foot on those streets. There were multiple barriers with soldiers who always stopped us, asking what we were doing there, where we were from and where we were going. They checked our passports, made a few phone calls – I guess to the soldiers on the other barrier and let us go. When we wanted to go and visit  the archeological site up the hill,  the Israeli soldiers told us that area was not safe for us to go alone and would not let us go through without an armed escort. We accepted. Otherwise, we would have to return to area H1, where we had a hotel. After visiting the site, we crossed another checkpoint that brought us back to the H1 area.

WHEN TO VISIT PALESTINE

When is the best time to visit Palestine? Avoid the summer in Palestine if possible, as the temperatures get way too hot. We visited Palestine in January, and it was a perfect time as we still managed to see a lot of Christmas decorations, and it was not too cold. In Jericho was the warmest weather from the whole trip.

THE BEST TOURS TO PALESTINE

Independent travelling in Palestine is not a big thing. To be more precise, we barely met any travellers during our travels, and the first hint that Palestine’s destination is not among the most typical is the fact there only exist a few up-to-date travel guides. 

In our eyes, it is very easy to get around independently, and obviously, that way, you experience a whole different point of view than if you take a tour. On the other hand, I understand that many people maybe don’t want to travel alone or want a guide to listen to their opinions on the situation. There are many tours you can take comfortably from Jerusalem. If that’s what interests you, base yourself in  Abraham hostel  in Jerusalem and check our top tour picks:

HOW TO GET TO PALESTINE

There is no international airport in Palestine; no matter what direction you’re coming from, you must go through Israel.

To get to Israel, you can  cross overland borders  from Jordan, or like we did  from Egypt.  However, the most common way to reach Israel is by flight and airports in Tel Aviv or Eilat have frequent flights from Europe with the low-cost airline Wizzair, and you can find flights for as little as $25.

Find cheap flights to Israel here.

Border Crossing Report: How to cross the Taba Border between Egypt and Israel.

HOW TO GET AROUND PALESTINE

Getting around Palestine is very easy as the shared taxi system works very well. Don’t bother using Google Maps, as it always shows you a non-sense, much longer way. Instead, use Maps.me app that shows the correct way. Travelling around Palestine by shared taxis or buses is easy, convenient and safe.

SHARED TAXIS & PRICES OF TRANSPORT

Here you can see the summary of buses & shared taxis we used in Palestine and how much they cost. Bear in mind, when travelling around Palestine, to start your day early as there is much more traffic going to places and also coming back from sights is much easier in the early afternoon rather than in the evening as there are lower chances of catching the shared taxi or you will wait a long time for them to fill up. Usually, the shared taxis run till 6pm, but make sure you ask drivers or locals before. In our experience, we woke up every day early and started exploring no later than 8-9am. We never had any problems with waiting for shared taxis to fill up. It usually took up to 10 minutes only.

• Jerusalem – Bethlehem:  bus #234 to Checkpoint 300 5.5 ILS ($1.5)
• Bethlehem – Mar Saba:  Shared taxi to Ubediya 5 ILS ($1.4)
• Shared taxi in Bethlehem:  From the centre to Dheisha refugee camp 3 ILS ($0.8)
• Bethlehem – Hebron:  Shared taxi from Dheisha refugee camp 10 ILS ($2.8)
• Hebron – Jericho:  Direct shared taxi 30 ILS ($8.3) or Shared taxi to Al Azariyah 20 ILS ($5.6) and change to shared taxi to Jericho 10 ILS ($2.8)
• Shared taxis in Jericho:  From the centre to Hisham Palace 10 ILS ($2.8) to Mount Temptation 20 ILS ($5.6), to St. George Monastery 15 ILS ($4.2)
• Jericho – Ramallah:  Shared taxi 18 ILS ($5)
• Ramallah – Nablus:  Shared taxi 17 ILS ($4.8)
• Nablus – Jenin:  Shared taxi 16 ILS ($4.5)
• Jenin – Emek Harod Checkpoint / Jamaleh:  Shared taxi 4 ILS ($1.1)

You can expect to spend a total of around 180 ILS ($50) for transportation in Palestine.

DO YOU HAVE A TROUBLE STAMP ON YOUR PASSPORT?

When we travelled to Palestine, we had two passports with us, and the one we used had stamps from Syria and Iraq and multiple stamps from Lebanon and other Muslim countries. We decided to cross the overland Taba border between Egypt and Israel with that passport as we thought it might be even more suspicious if we used the clean ,,backup” passport, and they found the other one with stamps from those countries. We have been detained and questioned for 5 hours, including a body search and a very detailed bag search. After 5 hours, we successfully made it to Israel. You can read a full report on  crossing the Taba border into Israel here.

After we made it to Israel, we no longer had any issues, even though multiple officers in both Israel and Palestine checked our passports.

The currency in Palestine is the Israeli Shekel. $1 = 3.58 ILS. Regarding ATMs money withdrawal, you don’t have to worry about anything as ATMs are widely spread and easy to find. We withdraw money in Palestine many times and never faced any issues. However, there is always a transaction fee of around 11 ILS ($3). In the Bank of Palestine, the withdrawal fee was even 40 ILS, so don’t even bother. We usually used the ATM of the Arab Bank . We used cash everywhere in Palestine; they are not used to card payments. But it is possible in some places.

INTERNET & SIM CARD

The Internet in Palestine is very good. In every accommodation we stayed wifi was very fast and reliable. Regarding Sim cards, you have two options. Either buy it in Palestine or Israel. SIM cards in Palestine are cheaper. However, their coverage is not great, and it’s only 2G, sometimes 3G. We recommend getting a SIM card in Israel. We bought ours in Jerusalem. It is not the cheapest, but it worked well in most places. However, we had some outages in Bethlehem and Hebron. Anyway, from what we heard from others, Pelephone is still the best option for Palestine. To access some sites, you will need a VPN. We paid 100 ILS ($28) for a Pelephone SIM card with 100 GB, unlimited use of apps such as Instagram and Facebook, and they provide 5G. Even Palestinians use Israeli sim cards. Don’t buy a sim card at the airport; they are overpriced.

VPN FOR PALESTINE

To access many sites in Palestine, it is necessary to use a reliable VPN app . Don’t use the free VPN apps, as they are unreliable, and there is always a safety risk as they can steal your data. We always use NordVPN everywhere we travel. They have excellent services and very fast support, which is important when you need to access the internet quickly. In some countries we visited, VPN can be blocked, but after we contacted the helpdesk of NordVPN, they quickly navigated us how to connect. Check the link below for the discount option – sometimes you can get up to 65% discount for a 2-year plan.

Check the best prices for NordVPN here.

PRICES IN PALESTINE

• Entrance fees: usually around 5-10 ILS ($1.4 – 2.8)
• Accommodation: $17-$35 for both of us per night
• Transportation: For 11 days in Palestine and using Shared taxis, we spent around $50 per person; you can see more details in How to get around Palestine section.
• Falafel sandwich: 5 ILS ($1.4)
• Ice cream: 5 ILS ($1.4)
• Palestinian Pizza: 7-10 ILS ($2-2.8)

In 11 days in Palestine, we spend around $750 for both of us ($375 per person) , so I’d say Palestine is a very affordable destination. In that budget, I don’t count the flight ticket from Tel Aviv to Europe, which costs an additional $50 per person. 

WHERE TO STAY IN PALESTINE

You can find accommodation on Booking.com and also Airbnb. However, during our visit, the hotels started to disappear from Booking.com due to some new laws and hotel owners told us that the issue is they can not receive money through booking into their bank account due to them being from Palestine. Just another example of unfair play Palestinians have to go through. Anyway, you can also try to contact the hotels directly by searching their number through Google. The majority of people use WhatsApp, and Couchsurfing is also popular. We got in touch with a few incredible people who have been willing to show us around. The sleepover never worked, though, but at least for meeting local friends, it is incredible. See below all the accommodations we used in Palestine. We describe each accommodation in greater detail in our 11 days itinerary below.

The following prices are per night for two people:

• Jerusalem I Abraham hostel ($52, dorms)
• Bethlehem I Staying with Ibrahim’s family in Dheisha Refugee Camp ($33)
• Hebron I Friends Hostel Area B ($32)
• Ramallah I Eco Hostel Ramallah ($40, dorms)
• Jericho I Aqabat Jabr Refugee Camp Sami hostel ($33)
• Nablus I Turquoise Guest House ($36, dorms)
• Jenin I Jenin Creative Cultural Center ($55)

STAYING IN REFUGEE CAMPS

If you truly want to understand Palestine, there is no better way than staying overnight in one of many refugee camps in Palestine. We absolutely loved staying with locals in camps, listening to their stories, and seeing the reality with our own eyes. Read our detailed travel guide on how and where you can stay in refugee camps in Palestine and how to book it, including contacts and exact locations in Bethlehem, Hebron and Jericho.

Read more: How to stay in Refugee Camps in Palestine & Things to know.

QUICK SUMMARY OF OUR 11 DAYS ITINERARY: 

• DAY 1 JERUSALEM (1 NIGHT)
• DAY 2 – 3 BETHLEHEM (2 NIGHTS) – Checkpoint 300 to get in West Bank
• DAY 4 – 5 HEBRON (2 NIGHTS)
• DAY 6 RAMALLAH (1 NIGHT)
• DAY 7 – 8 JERICHO (2 NIGHTS)
• DAY 9 – 10 NABLUS (2 NIGHTS)
• DAY 11 JENIN – Emek Harod Checkpoint to get out West Bank

Map of the 11-day itinerary for Palestine

11 DAYS ITINERARY FOR PALESTINE

Day 1: jerusalem.

The first minute we stepped out from a bus in Jerusalem, we found ourselves immersed in a culture we haven’t seen before. We felt like we showed up in an old movie with all the fashion people in Jerusalem wear. Jerusalem is today part of Israel. However, East Jerusalem is inhabited by Palestinians.

Not every day you see a city that welcomes more religions, and Jerusalem is the holy place, sacred for Jews, Muslims and Christians. 

Essential reading: How to visit top places in Jerusalem in one day.

BEST THINGS TO SEE IN JERUSALEM

Temple mount/ al haram ash sharif.

The biggest landmark in Jerusalem, especially the  Dome of the Rock , is the most holy and famous site. There are nine gates for Muslims to enter; however, as a non-muslim, you can only enter through the Gate of Moors (Bab Al Maghrib). It is recommended to line up early, as many tours are coming and you should expect huge queues. When we visited in January, there was a small queue, and it took just 10 minutes to get inside. You will go through the security check and then follow the wooden bridge that gives you a perfect view of the Western Wall.

The Dome of the Rock is where you find the foundation stone Jews believe is the centre of the earth. For Muslims, it is a place where Mohammed made his ascent. Non-muslims can’t enter the Dome of the Rock or Al Aqsa Mosque. But even from outside, we had a great time wandering around its plaza and admiring the architecture, which is simply stunning. 

• Sites inside Temple Mount Areal:  Dome of the Rock, Al Aqsa Mosque, Dome of the Chain, Sabil of Qaitbay, Scales of Souls, Bab Al Qattanin
• Opening hours for Temple Mount for non-muslims:  7 – 10:30am and 12:30 – 1:30 pm in winter and 7 – 11am and 1:30 – 2:30 pm in summer. Fridays and Saturdays are closed.
• Entrance fee:  Free
• Security:  They take security seriously in Temple Mount, and they will thoroughly search your bag while entering by the Gate of Moors. The military presence here is huge.

Western Wall

Western Wall is the holiest site in the world where Jews pray by the wall. We already mentioned above you get a perfect view of the Western Wall from above when walking on the wooden bridge when visiting Mount Temple. Stop there for a few minutes and just watch how Jews pray here. Western Wall is open 24 hours a day, but it makes the most sense if you come here after visiting Mount Temple as it is very close. 

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

After seeing the holiest site for Jews, it’s time to move to the Christian Quarter, where the main pilgrimage site for Christians, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, is to be found. Christians come and pray here by the empty tomb of Jesus. It is the place where Jesus was crucified. You find here the Stone of Unction, which is apparently where Jesus’ body was laid and prepared for burial. 

• Opening hours of Church of the Holy Sepulchre:  5am – 8pm from April to September and 5am – 7pm from October to March.
• Entrance fee:  Free

Via Dolorosa

Via Dolorosa is the holy walk through the Jerusalems’ holiest sites. It takes roughly one hour to walk this 600m paths; that is the one believed that Jesus took carrying the cross. We took a whole walk and did not expect such a spiritual experience. Having a map from Lonely Planet and reading the description of places as you go is worth it. The walk starts by St. Stephen (Lion’s) Gate, and it ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Mount of Olives

To end the day and watch the sunset with an unbeatable view over Jerusalem, head to the top of the Mount of Olives. We decided to walk from the old city, but you can also take bus number #83, which runs between Jaffa Gate and the top of the Mount of Olives. The viewpoint lies over the slopes of the cemetery where more than 150 000 Jews are buried. It is worth it to come here for epic views of Jerusalem with the shining golden Dome of the Rock.

Mahane Yehuda Market

We enjoyed strolling through this vibrant market after sunset. You can expect many halva, bakeries, cool food stalls and eateries. If you want to buy some locally grown products such as dates, oils and much more, this is the place to be. This market stood here since the Ottoman period and is located on Yehuda St., which is an open market, especially for veggies and butchers, and Etz Chayim St., where all the eateries, bakeries and halva makers are. We ended our day in Jerusalem here. 

• Opening hours for Mahane Yehuda Market: 8am – 7pm and 9am – 3pm on Fridays.

We managed to  visit all these top sites in Jerusalem  during a 1-day visit. We started exploring early in the morning, and we had plenty of time to see most places. However, you can easily spend more days here as there are many historical and religious sites to visit.

HOT TO GET AROUND JERUSALEM

Use Rav Kav Card and travel with trams and buses all around Jerusalem. You find the correct timetables in Moovit App. However, if you base yourself in the old town or close, you can basically visit all places by just walking around.

HOW TO GET TO JERUSALEM FROM EILAT

In Eilat, we took bus #444, which goes from Eilat Central Station. We got our tickets for 63 ILS and waited for an hour for the next bus as it was Shabbat, and the bus went every hour from 3pm. The bus wasn’t full, so I believe it was enough to get the bus ticket on the spot. We also bought here the Rav Kav card for public transport in Israel.

WHERE TO STAY IN JERUSALEM

The budget I Abraham Hostel – we highly recommend you stay here, as Jerusalem is pretty expensive, but staying in Abraham Hostel gives you a lot of advantages. They serve a huge, healthy local breakfast buffet that will make you full for most of the day. And if you pay for your stay in advance, you also get a free ticket for a beer in their bar. It is also located close to the centre, with a tram station right in front of them. It is one of the best hostels we have ever stayed in.

DAY 2-3: BETHLEHEM

Bethlehem is a synonym for religious travel in West Bank. Many pilgrims come to see the main sight, which is the Church of the Nativity. Many tours are coming here, but is there more to see from Bethlehem? Oh, yes, but you have to go behind the tourist trail. Many tourists come with a guide as they’re worried about crossing the checkpoints independently into Palestine. What a shame because the true understanding of what is happening in Palestine does not lie in the Church of the Nativity. But far behind the line when you experience  staying with a local family in the Dheisha refugee camp  in Bethlehem. Read our recommendation of places that you can visit in two days in Bethlehem.

BEST THINGS TO SEE IN BETHLEHEM

Israeli separation wall.

As soon as you cross Checkpoint 300 to Palestine, you will see the huge separation wall that is known as Israeli Separation Wall. It is a concrete wall up to 8m high that separates Israel from West Bank. The first feeling of this wall is pretty depressing. Follow the path along the wall and walk towards Walled Off Hotel. It is where you will see the most powerful graffiti. Basically, the whole wall is covered with graffiti, and each of them has a powerful message. Take your time to read it, to carefully watch all the art that helps Palestinians express how they feel. Truly powerful. Before we turned to the street that led to the Walled Off Hotel, there was a petrol station where we left our backpacks. The friend of Ibrahim, our host in Bethlehem, arranged it for us so we didn’t have to carry it the whole day before he picked us up later in the evening. Take your time and make a loop from Checkpoint 300. Go straight until the turn left that takes you to the Walled Off Hotel. Then turn left again, follow the wall until you can turn left, and follow the path down the hill, check the graffitis along the way. This loop is the most common to walk, as you will see most graffiti on the wall.

From the point of Israel, they built this wall for the safety of Israelis as frequent bomb attacks were taking place in the past, killing many Israelis. From the Palestinian point of view, this wall is to separate Palestinians, humiliate them, control their movement and show who has the power.

Walled-off Hotel + museum

If there is only one place you should see in Bethlehem, you need to visit the museum inside the Walled Off Hotel. Hands down, this museum was the best we have ever seen, as it’s a good start to understanding the problem between Israel and Palestine. 

You can’t take photos inside the museum. But there was (not only) one powerful moment when you walk through the museum and suddenly the phone rings. I came closer and saw the sign: ,,Please, answer the phone” . When I answered the phone, I heard: ,,This is Israeli Defence Forces; you have 5 minutes to leave your house until we blow it away” . I felt sick in my stomach. Is this the life people face here?

Besides the museum, the hotel is stylish inside, with a piano bar, interesting decorations, and occasional live music on Saturdays. If you don’t want to spend the night in a refugee camp, you can stay here. Who would not like to stay in a hotel that claims to have the worst view in the world?

• Opening times of the museum: 11am – 7:30pm
• Entry fee: 20 ILS ($5.5)

Want to stay in the Walled-Off Hotel?  Book it here .

Church of the Nativity

The most important religious site in Bethlehem. This Church is believed to be built on the spot where Jesus was born. To enter the Church, you must bow your head through the tiny Door of Humility built in the Ottoman Era. Once you admire the detailed decoration in the main hall, descend the stairs into the Grotto of the Nativity. It is the place where Jesus was born. When we visited, we even saw a priest walking around the Church. However, expect lots of people to visit this site.

• Opening Hours:  6:30am to 7:30 pm and 6:30am to 6pm in winter.

St. Catherine Church

Right next to the Church of the Nativity, there is St. Catherine Church. Visit the underground praying hall and the outside little garden. We liked this Church; very peaceful and atmospheric.

Milk Grotto Chapel

Visitors often overlook this Chapel, but once in the centre, it is just a short walk to visit this beautiful place. It is believed that it is where Mary and Joseph fed their baby, and after the milk dropped on the floor, it turned the red rock into white. 

Green Market

The main souq in Bethlehem, you can visit after the Church as it is right in the centre. Here, you will meet very friendly people, have a chat with them, buy some fresh fruit or a small snack and absorb the atmosphere. 

Refugee camps in Bethlehem

Another must and very important thing to experience not only in Bethlehem but the whole of Palestine is to visit refugee camps. There are two camps in Bethlehem. Dheisha and Aida. We visited both independently and spent a night in Dheisha with Ibrahim’s family. It was an unforgettable experience; you got to learn so much and hear the stories that you would never hear in media. 

We visited the Aida refugee camp on our second day after we returned from Mar Saba Monastery. We walked through the camp, took some photos and did not experience any issues. People there are very friendly and welcoming, happy to see foreigners coming on their own. Right by the entrance, we were invited into the Car Mechanic shop because as soon as they saw us, they almost yelled with excitement. It was such a warm welcome; we had a nice conversation with a cup of coffee. 

Essential reading: How to spend a night in a refugee camp in Palestine.

Mar Saba Monastery (Half-day trip)

Mar Saba is a dramatic cliff-clinging monastery half an hour from Bethlehem. It is our favourite place we visited as the monastery, and the surroundings are breathtaking. Women are not permitted inside, but let’s make it clear. It is the outside look over the monastery from the opposite slope that is the main goal of this trip. Men can enter inside and take a tour with one of the monks. When we visited in January, it was open between 9am to 2pm. Once you arrive at the monastery, follow the stairs and trail that leads down the valley. Once there, cross the small bridge over the river and follow the trail that takes you all the way up the slope opposite the monastery. From there, find a spot and the best viewpoints to view the Mar Saba Monastery. When we visited, we were the only ones who hiked on the opposite slope, but surely it is worth it; otherwise, you miss out on the main beauty. It takes only half an hour to get to the other side of the slope. Ensure you have water with you; it is quite warm when the sun shines. On both sides, there is a stall where two brothers sell some small snacks, tea, coffee and water.

How to get to Mar Saba from Betlehem

Take a shared taxi (yellow minivan) from the central bus station located in the basement of the Bethlehem city mall, where KFC is. You’ll see a lot of yellow minivans waiting there. Search for one that goes to Ubediya. Be aware that some taxi drivers might want to cheat you; they told us that it is dangerous to go alone and that we should go with them, a private taxi for 150 – 200 ILS. We did our research and talked with locals, and we found it very safe and cheap to go independently. Shared taxi costs 5 ILS ($1.4), and the ride takes around 30 minutes, it is 12 km. The shared taxi stop is at the end of the village, by the brown sign pointing the way to Mar Saba. 

From there, hike down the hill on the road, 4.5 km, until you reach the monastery. In the middle of the way, there is a nice viewpoint. Many taxis and buses with tourists or locals go there every day. You can also hitchhike. We were hiking, and after just a few metres from the shared taxi stop, a taxi with a French tourist stopped and offered us a lift to the monastery for free and we gladly accepted. We stopped at the viewpoint on the way down. 

To go back, it’s the same process. Ask someone to take you up the hill, where the shared taxi dropped you. Or hike, but note this part is only uphill four and a half km. It will take around one and a half hours to hike, and it is a safe area. There is a local guy selling tea & snacks, and he offered to take us uphill for 19 ILS ($5.3). Since there were no more cars at the monastery when we finished exploring, we accepted his offer, as simply it was a faster and easier solution than hiking 4.5 km uphill. After 10 minutes ride, we arrived exactly when the shared taxi arrived, and we made our way back to Bethlehem from the same spot where they had dropped us off earlier (5 ILS). 

Is it safe to go alone?  Yes. We felt perfectly safe and comfortable. You basically just walk down the hill from Ubediya town; you have almost all the way the monastery in sight. There is traffic daily, either tour buses, many taxis and local people coming. Chances are that someone will offer you a lift, or if you feel like you can ask them & hitchhike.

• Opening times:  9am – 2pm
• Entry fee:  Free 
• Total time  from leaving Bethlehem and being back to Bethlehem: 3 hours (9-noon)

HOW TO GET TO BETHLEHEM

From Jerusalem, we took bus #234 (5.5 ILS, 30 minutes) from HaNevi’im Terminal from Damascus Gate, which takes you to Checkpoint 300, which we crossed on foot. There is no control if you’re crossing in the direction from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, so it is very fast and easy to get into Palestine. 

Another option is to take bus #231, which actually crosses into Bethlehem, but it takes 1 hour, and we felt like it is better to experience and cross Checkpoint 300 ourselves.

TIP:  As soon as you get to Israel, get a Rav-Kav card for public transport. You can top it up in kiosks or online through the Rav-Kav Online app and then use it for buses in Jerusalem.

HOW TO GET AROUND BETHLEHEM

Taxi or shared taxi is the common way of transportation, and it is quite cheap. Yellow taxi with black sides is a shared taxi , and you can expect to pay 3 ILS for the ride in the city or to Dheisha and Aida refugee camps. If the taxi is only yellow, it means it is private, and the charge will be higher. You can expect to pay around 15 – 20 ILS for a private ride.

WHERE TO EAT IN BETHLEHEM

Afteem restaurant .

This restaurant is located on the corner opposite the Church of the Nativity. They serve delicious Masabacha, which is a warm hummus with whole chickpeas. It was also our go-to restaurant for falafel sandwiches. Very tasty.

Stars Bucks

Located across Manger Sq, this cafe serves delicious coffee and snacks. Not talking about its name. 

Coffee stalls on the square

You will see some coffee stalls on the square in front of the Church of the Nativity. Getting coffee, sitting on the bench and enjoying the atmosphere is worth it. Coffee costs only 1 ILS ($ 0.3) you won’t find cheaper.

WHERE TO STAY IN BETHLEHEM

Dheisha Refugee Camp I Stay with a family in Dheisha refugee camp.

Walled Off Hotel I Stay here for the worst view in the world. This hotel is located right next to the Israeli’s separation wall.

DAY 4-5: HEBRON

Despite the fact that Hebron is the most problematic city in Palestine, it is a rich cultural and handicraft centre, and it is one of the most interesting places to visit in Palestine. What is the problem in Hebron? The city is divided into two areas H1: the area under Palestinian control, and H2: the area under Israeli control. And as if this is not enough, Jewish settlements are built within the old city. The city is divided by many checkpoints, and Palestinians can not walk on certain streets. The tension in this city is high, to say at least. You won’t meet many independent travellers here; we met only two other independent travellers; others came with a tour. The best thing to see in Hebron is visiting the Mosque and Cave of the Patriarchs, a holy place for Muslims and Jews and inside, it is separated by bulletproof glass. 

Expect going through many checkpoints in Hebron, have your ID ready and be prepared for questions such as your nationality, why you are coming, and your religion. I already described it in the Checkpoints section.

BEST THINGS TO SEE IN HEBRON

Area h1: palestine territory: market.

The main place to visit is the market that used to be bustling with life once upon a time. Today, some shops are open, but it is just a short part. The market has a fence from above to protect people from Jewish settlers who throw trash and worse at Palestinians. You can still see lots of garbage, church and different items thrown at people and stuck in the fence. 

Actually, the Friends hostel, where we stayed, is located inside this market and to get inside you go through one of the shops. You can buy clothes, fruit and vegetables in the market, especially lots of colourful pickled veggies and olives. Some art shops are open, and it was a pleasure to talk with some shop owners about the situation and their opinion about the future of Palestinians. You will see many barriers on sidewalks that Israelis have placed. 

Tomb of the Patriarchs and Ibrahimi Mosque 

An important holy place for both Muslims and Jews who believe here is the final resting place of Ibrahim. One building. Two separate entrances. Two checkpoints from each side to enter. The security and amount of military is insane. This must be one of the most controlled places in Palestine. We entered both sides and seeing two completely opposite worlds was interesting. In the middle of the building is placed the tomb, which is protected with bulletproof glass, as you literally see from the mosque to the synagogue.

Area H2: Israeli Territory

From the Ibrahimi mosque, you can continue your way to Area H2, which is hugely protected by the Israeli military. We walked through the deserted city, and in a 1 km walk, we were stopped at least six times. They checked our ID and then let us go. You can see lots of military presence here, and deserted streets with tens of shops closed down.

Herbawi Kuffiya factory

Everybody knows the Palestinian scarf; this factory is the first Kuffiya factory in Palestine. The entry is free; you can see how the scarf is made. There is also a little shop where you can buy a scarf. We bought ours there.

Glass Factory

Another souvenir we brought from Palestine is a Christmas decoration made in the Glass Factory. You can watch here how the glass is made, and there is a shop with hundreds of different glass products.

Sidr family

You can visit the Sidr family, one of many families living in the old town who was offered millions of $ to leave their house to make space for Jewish settlers. They refused. They welcome people from outside to come and talk about the situation. Read more in our separate  post about Hebron.

Essential reading: The ultimate guide to visiting Hebron. The troubled city in Palestine. (Coming soon)

HOW TO GET TO HEBRON FROM BETHLEHEM

If you stayed with Ibrahim in the Dheisha Refugee camp in Bethlehem, just walk back to the main street and wait for the shared taxi van that goes directly to Hebron. It cost 10 ILS ($2.7); this is what we did. Otherwise, take a shared yellow and black taxi for 3 ILS, which takes you close to the Shepherd Hotel, which is the station for shared taxis. There, find the one that goes to Hebron.

HOW TO GET AROUND HEBRON

You can easily walk everywhere. Or catch a taxi. 

WHERE TO EAT IN HEBRON

Who would guess that Hebron is the ultimate foodie destination? Everywhere you go, there is delicious food. A falafel sandwich typically costs around 4 ILS. Try also Palestinian chocolate; many stores in Hebron sell many kinds of small chocolate.

WHERE TO STAY IN HEBRON

Friends Hostel Area B I The best and most welcoming place to stay in Palestine. Akram really makes sure you feel well; his place is full of useful maps and recommendations on what to visit. He made sure he sat down for tea with us, let us ask as many questions about the situation in Hebron and Palestine as we wanted, and explained everything passionately. This hostel is located right in the centre so you can walk from here everywhere.

You can also stay in  the refugee camp at Hebron   Hope Guesthouse.

DAY 6-7: JERICHO

Jericho is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities and the hottest area in Palestine. Jericho doesn’t have the old historical centre. Still, it is the monasteries carved into mountains, archaeological sights and close proximity to the Dead Sea that make it an attractive destination for foreign and local tourists. Two days are sufficient for the places below; if you want to visit the Dead Sea, you need to add one more day. On day 1, we started exploring late at 1pm by visiting Hisham’s Palace, Mount of Temptation and Jericho City Centre. On day 2, we hiked to St. George Monastery and explored the Jericho city and refugee camp where we stayed. I can not forget to mention the people of Jericho, who are amongst the friendliest we have met in Palestine. Many times we were invited for a coffee and friendly chat.

BEST THINGS TO SEE IN JERICHO

Hisham palace  .

We arrived in Jericho around 1pm, and the first thing we visited was Hisham’s Palace. We took a taxi for 10 ILS from the city centre. But you can walk, it would take around 40 minutes. After you get inside the area, watch the 10 minutes documentary explaining the history of Hisham Palace. It is an Islamic ruin with one of the most well-preserved mosaics. Search for the Tree of Life, the most famous mosaic in the palace.

• Opening times for Hisham Palace:  8am – 6pm
• Entry fee:  10 ILS
• Time:  45 minutes

How to get to Hishams palace

You can easily walk from the city centre to Hisham’s palace. It is roughly 3 km and 40 minutes on flat terrain through the city. Or take a taxi for 10 ILS ($2.7).

Mount of Temptation (Deir al Krntl)

This Monastery is carved high in the mountain into the cliff, which is totally impressive. I’d say one of the most beautiful sights in Palestine. Unfortunately, when we came, it was closed. It means they lock the gate, and you can not get inside. However, you can still have a nice view from the area around you and take a small hike that takes you under the Monastery, where you can see a lot of caves and the Monastery from below. The Monastery is built on the spot where Jesus resisted Satan after 40 days of fasting. You get amazing views over the Dead Sea and the agricultural area of Jericho.

How to get to Mount of Temptation

From Hisham’s Palace, it makes sense to head to the Mount of Temptation, as it’s in the same area, only 4.5 km away. It’s the Monastery carved into the rock on the opposite hill. We took a taxi for 15 ILS to reach the bottom of the Mount of Temptation. It takes 15 minutes to hike on the gravel path to reach the top. It’s a pretty easy short hike; you see the Monastery right above you all the time. If you go from the city centre, just take a taxi for the same price.

After we were done exploring, we hiked down the mountain back to the road and saw a shared taxi coming. We asked the driver if he went into the centre and he pointed that we can jump in. So we did. We showed him where we wanted to go – to the Jericho centre, and he dropped us off there for 3 ILS. Otherwise, you can walk back to the main road and catch any shared or private taxis passing by. 

Another option to reach the Mount of Temptation is to go by cable car, which costs 60 ILS. A big restaurant is on the top where the cable car stops, just a few metres from the entrance.

• Opening times:  Mo, Tu, We, Th, Sat: 9-15:30, Sun: 10-15, Friday: Closed
• Entry fee:  free

St. George Monastery 

Another monastery carved into the cliff. You get a fantastic view from the upper viewpoint. Be prepared for many locals pushing you to take a donkey ride down to the Monastery. Apparently, beautiful paintings are inside the chapel, and you can see parts of the original mosaic floors.

How to get to St. George Monastery from Jericho 

Reaching the Monastery is straightforward. From Jericho city centre, it’s 6 km to reach the Monastery. You should open Maps.me while reading this description, as it will be easier to understand. From the city centre (Mount 41 hostel), walk or take a taxi to Wadi Al Qelt hostel – it’s 2,5 km through the city and along the road. 

When we walked this way, after the roundabout towards the Wadi Al Qelt Hostel, the car with two friendly locals stopped and offered us a ride for free to the Monastery. Which was super nice, so you can also try to hitchhike; locals in Jericho are very friendly. 

Ok, if this won’t be your case, the way is following. There are two ways from Wadi Al Qelt Hostel. The first one is to follow the road for cars, which will take you to the Monastery. It’s a steep uphill road. This way, you turn up at the Monastery’s viewpoint (the most beautiful one). You can also take a taxi from Jericho centre to this viewpoint; when we asked around, the lowest price was 10 ILS per person. To reach the Monastery, you just walk from the viewpoint down the steep road; it takes maybe 10-15 minutes. 

Second option: Little bit before Wadi Al Qelt hostel, there is a brown sign on your right that says ,,Herod’s Palace”. Turn right. After you cross the bridge, turn left and follow blue or red signs that will take you through the valley, through the beautiful scenery to the Monastery. It takes roughly 1 hour and 15 minutes through this hiking trail. The first part is uphill, and the rest is more or less flat. This way, you will appear directly by the Monastery. To get to the viewpoint, it’s a very steep hill. 

Therefore we recommend you go the other way around (like we did). Walk along the road for cars to get to the top viewpoint (or take a taxi), then check the viewpoint and hike down to the Monastery to explore. After you’re done, walk back to the city through the hiking trail. Btw, the hike through the valley was wonderful; we enjoyed the scenery very much and met many marmots. Bear in mind that this hike goes through the valley, and we were the only people on the trail. It’s a hiking trail, and only a few people actually do it. However, we enjoyed the views, and the valley was stunning. After the hike, we returned to the road close to Wadi Al Qelt hostel by the brown sign described above. From here, it is roughly 2,5km back to the centre. We took a taxi for 15 ILS.

• Opening times of St. George Monastery:  9-13, but when we arrived at 12:20, they had already closed
• Entry fee:  Free

HOW TO GET TO JERICHO FROM HEBRON

Take a shared taxi from this location. You can also find shared taxis to Ramallah and other locations from here.

We took a direct shared taxi to Jericho for 30 ILS. The ride took 1 hour and a half. Be careful; some taxi drivers are very sneaky and wanted us to go to the wrong location just to get money from us. Luckily other taxi drivers teamed up and took us to the right car to Jericho. The second option is to take a shared taxi to Al-Eizariya (20 ILS) and change there for another shared taxi to Jericho (10 ILS). 

HOW TO GET AROUND JERICHO

If you stay in Jericho refugee camp, like us, reaching the city centre is around 3 km. The good thing is a shared taxi stops in front of the Sami Hostel , where we stayed and for 3 ILS goes to Jericho centre. This shared taxi runs very often, so it is not a problem. Once in the centre, you can easily walk almost everywhere.

Prices of shared taxis in Jericho

• Jericho Centre – Hisham Palace: 10 ILS
• Jericho Centre – Mount Temptation: 20 ILS
• Jericho Centre – St. George Monastery: 15 ILS

WHERE TO EAT IN JERICHO 

Restaurants in the city centre (roundabout by Mount 41 hostel) are very overpriced and cheat customers by serving small portions. If you go a bit further away, you’ll find good local eateries.

Abu Feras restaurant  – our favourite place to go. Falafel or hummus 5 ILS. They also have shawarma, Palestinian food (rice, small dishes and chicken) and more. It’s across the Bank of Palestine in this location.

مخبزومعجناتالشام – if you want a change from all the typical Middle Eastern food, head to this bakery , as this bustling place serves the best pastries we had in a while. Pizzas, different kinds of filled pastries. Super yummy. Prices range from 3-10 ILS.

WHERE TO STAY IN JERICHO 

Jericho has not many budget options. However, depending on your preferences and budget, you can easily find a place to stay. You can stay in the city centre or a refugee camp. We recommend you stay in the camps as they are a big part of Palestine, and everyone should experience the reality.

Budget I Sami hostel – the backpacker’s option in Jericho; this hostel is located in a refugee camp, that’s why we decided to stay there. The owner is friendly and helpful. It’s located 3 km away from the city centre however there are restaurants and stores right in front of the hostel. A shared taxi (3 ILS, 15 min) runs all the time between the centre and Sami, and they stop right in front of the hostel, which is super convenient. You can see life in the Palestinian camp, which was the first one built in Palestine. The area is safe to walk even after dark. You can book dorms online, but double rooms are available too, and the owner will most likely upgrade you. Also, it is a great option to talk to people about life in a refugee camp, the current situation and their opinions. A private double room costs 120 ILS ($33).

Want to stay in refugee camps in Palestine? Read our experience here.

Mid-Range I Mount 41 – if you don’t want to stay away from the centre, the best option is to stay in hostel Mount 41, which has the best central location in the city. However, there are only dorms. 

Mid-Range I Auberg-Inn Guesthouse – another popular option amongst travellers. It’s close to the Mount of Temptation, the rooms are big, and the place is clean. 

DAY 8: RAMALLAH 

Honestly, Ramallah was a bit disappointing as we felt like not much was going on here. We enjoyed the Christmas decorations around the cosmopolitan city and the good Palestinian pizza in local bakeries. But also the famous local ice cream you can taste at Rukab’s Ice Cream.

BEST THINGS TO SEE IN RAMALLAH

Yasser arafat museum.

As the name suggests, this museum is dedicated to the life of Yasser Arafat. In my opinion, the museum is made in quite a chaotic way, and if you’re not familiar with Yasser Arafat’s actions, it might be a bit confusing. A whole section in the museum shows the life of Yasser under the Israeli Siege during the years 2001 and 2004. The first thing you see when entering the area is the Mausoleum. However, these days, it is not guarded by soldiers anymore.

• Opening times of Yasser Arafat Museum:  10am – 6pm
• Entry fee:  5 ILS ($1.4)

Taybeh Beer Brewery

We wanted to visit the beer brewery in Taybeh, so we went to parking lot where buses to Taybeh goes. We entered the bus and waited half an hour for the bus to fill up, but no one showed up. We used Google Translate, and the driver said it could sometimes take even a few hours. We searched for a shared taxi instead, which was right on the road next to this parking lot . We were the first ones in the taxi, another two ladies joined, and then we waited another half an hour, and no one showed up. We gave up as we thought getting back might be even more problematic.

HOW TO GET TO RAMALLAH FROM JERICHO

Take a shared taxi that has a station in the centre opposite the Mount 41 hostel in Jericho. They charge 18 ILS. 

How to get around Ramallah or to other cities

Ramallah is very confusing with the shared taxis system as there are many stations from where the shared taxis or buses leave, The best is always to talk to local people, and they will show you where to go.

WHERE TO STAY IN RAMALLAH

Eco Hostel Ramallah is a place where travellers meet in Ramallah and also volunteer. The German guy checked us into the hostel earlier than check-in time, which we appreciated. We stayed in shared dorms for 75 ILS ($20) per person, which is quite a lot in our opinion; it was the most expensive accommodation we had in Palestine. The place is very clean; you can use the kitchen, fast Wi-Fi, free water and a coffee & tea station.

DAY 9-10: NABLUS

Nablus surprised us with its beautiful atmosphere and old city, where we felt like being back in  Tripoli in Lebanon . It is a conservative and authentic city that does not attract many foreigners. At the time of our visit, a new terrorist group was forming with the aim of fighting the Israeli forces. The area from Nablus towards the north is quite sensitive, and during our stay, we were informed by our hotel not to go outside after sunset. The whole old city and market shut down before 5pm, which is when we should go back to the hotel. One evening, around 5pm, we were already chilling when we heard gunshots right in front of our window. Hundreds of people of this Nablus group with guns went into the streets and shot into the air. That day, we saw a small boy holding a huge gun and casually walking around the market. Even though it sounds dangerous place to be, this group aim to protect Palestinians, and you, as a tourist, have nothing to fear about. However, if the bullets are in the air, they must also go down; so it is better to be inside your hostel in the evenings.

That night, there were big riots close to Jacob’s Tomb as Jews, and the Israeli army, which protected them, came to pray at this holy site. There was shooting, fire on the streets and fights until late that night. In the hostel, we met US journalists who were preparing to go there to film and make a report on this.

People in Nablus are suspicious of foreigners at first, so they checked on us many times, asking where we are from, if we are journalists, and why we came. After we explained we were just tourists, they relaxed and were very nice to us. Actually, Nablus is a place where we would like to return one day.

BEST THINGS TO SEE IN NABLUS

Traditional souq.

This souq had many shops with traditional products and crafts, where the recipe is passed from generation to generation: Halva, sweets, honey. There is even a store with a crocodile and snake skin that the owner brought from India. The whole market and old city are covered with posters and flags of the activist group, showing martyrs killed in fights with Israel.

The old city and watch tower

The old city has an authentic vibe, narrow streets and charismatic stone houses. Come to the square with the watch tower, have a coffee from one of the stalls and enjoy the place. It has identical Ottoman Era architecture as we saw when we visited Damascus during our trip to Syria.

Try the best Kunafeh in Palestine in Al Aqsa Kunafeh , the famous Kunafeh place in Palestine. Their Kunafeh tastes like heaven, and there is no wonder why this place is bustling with locals every day. You can also see the whole process of making kunafeh which is a cool experience. 

The next sweet thing you must try is Tamriyah , a fried pastry filled with semolina pudding that costs only 1 ILS. Zalabye Pumpkin is to die for. It is something like a crepe filled with sweet pumpkin filling and then fried. It costs 7 ILS and is totally delicious. Halva . Oh, halva. We visited two traditional places where they make halva, the owners took us inside, showed us around, and gave us a taste of their delicious halva, and we bought a few boxes to bring back home with us. The food in Nablus is fresh and so good.

You can get local Palestinian food, falafel sandwiches or hummus in many places. We didn’t make a mistake in any of the eateries we visited in the old town.

Soap factory 

There are numerous soap factories in Nablus. Visit one, check out the colourful soaps and lovely smell and learn about the soap-making process.

As you can guess, Nablus is our favourite city in Palestine, and that’s why we dedicated a whole separate post about Nablus and the best things to do and eat there, but you can also read about the safety situation. 

Read more in our post: How to visit Nablus, Palestine, in 2023 & Is it safe? (Coming soon)

HOW TO GET TO NABLUS FROM RAMALLAH

We asked the local man where the shared taxi have a station, and luckily he took us to the building, where we took a lift and after we saw the place where many share taxis stand. We paid 17 ILS. The location of the multi-floor building from where the shared taxis leave is here .

HOW TO GET AROUND NABLUS

Stay in the centre of Nablus, and you can easily walk everywhere. If you want to go further, take a taxi for 5-10 ILS.

WHERE TO STAY IN NABLUS

Turquoise Guest House I without a doubt, is the best place to stay in Nablus and maybe the whole of Palestine. It is right in the old town, located on the second floor of the stone house. There are some private rooms and also separate dorms for men and women; that’s where we stayed. We met interesting people here, travellers and volunteers who helped at Turquoise Guest House. The owner and family took the time to discuss things about Nablus; they have generally been very helpful. The guest house has an amazing rooftop from where you can see the whole of Nablus. After sunset, it’s a show of lights.

DAY 11: JENIN

Jenin is not your typical holiday destination as it is a place of frequent riots and a place where the Palestinian journalist Abu Akleh was killed when reporting for Al Jazeera. Her face is a symbol of Palestinian activism. You will see graffiti with her face and posters all around Palestine.

When you cross the Emek Harod checkpoint to Nazareth, expect you will be suspicious as only activists and journalists usually go to Jenin. We decided not to spend a night there and only go for a day trip. Jenin is a traditional Palestinian city with similar vibes to Nablus. We felt there very well, safe and welcomed. People stopped us on the street and wanted to practice English. 

The market in the centre, together with the one in Nablus, is the best market we visited in Palestine. We wandered around its streets for a couple of hours. We used our time, especially for walking around the centre of Jenin, talking with people, and tasting some food and pomegranate juice. And then, we took a shared taxi towards the border as the plan that day was to make our way to Nazareth, Israel.

HOW TO GET TO JENIN FROM NABLUS

In Nablus, take a shared taxi to Jenin from this location . It costs 16 ILS.

WHERE TO STAY IN JENIN

Jenin Creative Cultural Center – I got in touch with Yousef through Facebook messages . He runs this place and is a director of an NGO in Jenin. They charge quite a higher price for accommodation, but since there are not many hotel options, this is the place to be. We spent a half day in Jenin on the way to the border, so we didn’t stay overnight. 

HOW TO GET TO NAZARETH FROM JENIN

Take a shared taxi from Jenin to Jalamah, the city right by the Emek Harod Checkpoint, where you cross to Nazareth in Israel. We asked locals, and they brought us to the shared taxi location. We paid 4 ILS for a ride. 

We already described the Emek Harod Checkpoint above in the Checkpoint section .

After you cross the checkpoint, you find yourself back in Israel. Follow people and go outside of the building. Then continue your way to the bus stop by the main road. On google maps, you find the bus stop as Jalamah Checkpoint and wait for the bus to Nazareth. Check the Moovit App to find the bus that is going there. We took bus #52 and then changed to bus #354. More buses are going as well as taxis. It is only 25 km from Nazareth.

Read more: Visiting Israel on budget: Tips & Perfect 5 days itinerary. (Coming soon)

More from the Middle East

Palestine / israel.

How to visit Jerusalem in 24 hours: Safety, Tips, Itinerary

Visit & Stay in refugee camps in the West Bank.

Taba Border Crossing: Dahab (Egypt) to Eilat (Israel) with Troubled Stamps in Passport

How to travel to Lebanon & Ultimate 11 days itinerary

The best things to do in Beirut, Lebanon

Is it safe to travel to Lebanon? Our experience

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How to travel to the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus

Travel off the beaten path in Cyprus

Epic road trip: The King’s Highway in Jordan

Wadi Rum: Overnight in the desert & Know before you go

How to travel to Aqaba, Jordan & Ultimate beach guide

How to visit Petra and Little Petra in Jordan

It’s time to plan your trip!

Find our travel resources below that help you plan your next trip. Good luck and safe travels.

Book your flight

Skyscanner is our favourite tool for searching for the cheapest flights and flight combinations. Multi-city or Explore Everywhere helps us to find real bargains.

The best platform to rent a car and compare the prices for your next road trip anywhere in the world is Discovercars.com . The booking process is hassle-free.

Find your acommodation

On Booking.com we always find the best deals for accommodation. Another great option for cheap accommodation is Hostelworld .

Travel insurance

We always recommend IATI Travel Insurance which offers excellent plans. As a reader of Broken Navigation, get an exclusive 5% discount. For Europeans Truetraveller offers perfect travel insurance for the best price.

Explore more with Tours

Some places are better off explored with a knowledgeable guide. Or, if you simply want to save time and hassle, we recommend GetYourGuide . Another great option that also has an amazing range of activities is Viator .

protect yourself online by VPN

We always use  NordVPN  everywhere we travel for safe internet browsing and access to specific sites that might be blocked.

Disclosure: We recommend only companies we personally use. If you book services through any of the affiliate links in our posts, it earns us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Travelling for years now, she found the passion in unique and off the beaten path places. Romana is a food lover, but it doesn’t stop her from hiking the mountains for several days. By sharing her experiences, she wants to help you experience the same.

You may also like

Visit Varosha, The Ghost Town – Ultimate Travel Guide 2024

Is It Safe to Travel to Lebanon in 2024? Know Before You Go

How To Visit Petra and Little Petra, Jordan in 2024

How to Travel to Aqaba, Jordan in 2024 & Ultimate beach guide

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• Passports, travel and living abroad
• Travel abroad
• Foreign travel advice

The Occupied Palestinian Territories

Entry requirements.

This travel advice covers Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories (OPTs).

This information is for people travelling on a full ‘British citizen’ passport from the UK who choose to travel despite FCDO advice. It is based on the UK government’s understanding of the current rules for the most common types of travel.

The authorities in Israel and the OPTs set and enforce entry rules. If you’re not sure how these requirements apply to you, contact the Israeli Embassy in London or the   Palestinian Mission to the UK .

Check Israeli immigration policies before you travel. Allow extra time for increased security measures and checks at airports, especially during Israeli holidays and during the summer tourist season.

COVID-19 rules

There are no COVID-19 testing or vaccination requirements for travellers entering Israel or the OPTs .

Visa requirements

You do not need a visa to enter Israel as a tourist. On entry, visitors are given permission to stay for up to 3 months. However, if you are a dual national, read the dual nationals guidance for more information.

If you work in Israel without the proper permissions, you can be detained and deported. This process could take several months.

Passport validity requirements

If you’re visiting Israel or the OPTs , your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from the date you enter the country (check the expiry date).

Check with your travel provider that your passport and other travel documents meet requirements. Renew your passport if you need to.

You will be denied entry if you do not have a valid travel document or try to use a passport that has been reported lost or stolen.

 Checks at border control

Passport stamping and entry cards.

Visitors entering via Tel Aviv Ben Gurion Airport get an entry card instead of an entry stamp in their passport. At other entry points to the country, you may get an entry card or you may get a stamp.

Keep your entry card with your passport until you leave. This is evidence that you entered Israel legally. You may need it, particularly if you’re crossing into the OPTs . If you’re refused entry to Israel, your passport may be stamped with an entry stamp and 2 red lines drawn across it to show the refusal.

Stamps with restrictions

Entry stamps that state ‘Palestinian Authority only’ or ‘Judea and Samaria only’ have been issued to some travellers at:

• the Allenby Bridge crossing with Jordan
• Tel Aviv Ben Gurion Airport

Since travellers entering by the Allenby Bridge crossing must pass through Israeli checkpoints and Israeli-controlled territory to reach Jerusalem or Gaza, this effectively limits travellers who receive this stamp.

It is not clear how travellers who get this stamp at Tel Aviv Ben Gurion Airport can leave the airport without violating the restriction.

This stamp has been issued to travellers who have no Palestinian or other Arab ancestry, and do not seem to have a claim to a Palestinian Authority ID.     

Immigration checks

The Israeli authorities decide if you can enter Israel. You may experience lengthy personal questioning and baggage searches at security when you enter and leave Israel. Searches and questioning may be longer for some visitors, including:

• visitors with Palestinian or Arab ancestry
• visitors with evidence of previous travel which may be considered suspicious
• visitors who are considered to have publicly criticised the state of Israel

Foreign nationals can legally be refused entry if they:

• have publicly called for a boycott of Israel or Israeli settlements
• belong to an organisation which has called for a boycott

Travellers may occasionally be held at border control for more checks. This is not routine, but a few travellers do experience delays, sometimes for several hours. Israeli security have sometimes requested access to travellers’ personal email or social media accounts as a condition of entry.

Previous travel to countries in the region

Evidence of previous travel to another country in the region, such as entry or exit stamps in your passport, does not normally stop you entering Israel. However, you may face extra questioning at the border.

If you have concerns about visas or entry into Israel, including whether previous travel can affect you travelling there, contact the Israeli Embassy in the UK before you travel.

Refusal of entry into Israel

If you’re refused entry to Israel, you will be booked on the next available flight back to where you flew in from, on the same airline.

Depending on the flight schedule, you may be taken to the Immigration Detention Centre (a few minutes’ drive from the airport) to wait until your flight departs. You will have access to a telephone, information in English and medical assistance if needed. Your luggage will stay at the airport, so tell officials if you need to retrieve anything urgent from your luggage, for example medication.

You can contact the British Embassy in Israel from the detention centre. They can help where possible, but cannot intervene in immigration decisions.

Entering the OPTs

Entry to the OPTs , including by sea to Gaza, is controlled by the Israeli authorities. You must show a passport and Israeli immigration slip to cross between Israel and the OPTs .

There are requirements for foreign nationals entering the West Bank. Read about the requirements for entering the West Bank on the Israel government website .

Israeli border officials at Tel Aviv Ben Gurion Airport have asked some travellers to sign a form stating they are not allowed to enter territories controlled by the Palestinian Authority unless they get advance authorisation from the Israeli ‘Territory Actions Co-ordinator’. You can be deported from Israel and barred from entry for up to 10 years for violating this restriction.

If immigration officials believe you plan to enter Gaza without permission, or that you’re entering Israel to work in the OPTs , you may be refused entry.

FCDO cannot support individuals applying for entry or exit permits for Gaza. If you decide to visit Gaza against FCDO advice, you must contact the relevant authorities well in advance. FCDO cannot provide administrative support to UK charities wishing to enter Gaza by the Rafah crossing.

The Rafah border regularly closes with no warning and for long periods. The Erez border is currently closed. At these times it may be impossible to enter or leave Gaza. 

Israeli checkpoints may close on Israeli public holidays and during periods of increased instability. There is information on known checkpoint closures on the UN website . This can change at short notice.

British nationals of Palestinian origin

If you’re a British national of Palestinian origin (on the Palestinian Population Register or holding a Palestinian ID number), you need a Palestinian passport or travel document to leave Gaza or the West Bank.

If you’re a British national with a Palestinian name or place of birth but without a Palestinian ID number, you may face problems. British nationals of Palestinian origin or British nationals married to Palestinians have been refused entry into Israel.

British people holding dual nationality 

British-Palestinian dual nationals living in the West Bank and Gaza may only exit the OPTs via the Allenby border crossing into Jordan or the Rafah border crossing into Egypt, and must return by the same route. If you’re a British-Palestinian dual national entering Gaza against FCDO travel advice, check entry and exit procedures with the relevant authorities. There is a limit on the number of dual nationals permitted to enter and exit Gaza through Erez – this includes if you are entering for medical or humanitarian reasons. The Israeli government has the authority to make decisions on entry and exit permits through Erez.

If you’re a British national with dual nationality, check with your nearest Israeli embassy if you need pre-approval to travel to Israel. Dual nationals holding Iranian, Iraqi, Syrian and Lebanese citizenship have previously been impacted. If you are not a citizen of any of these countries, but have close family ties, it is also advisable to check with your nearest Israeli embassy before travel.

Children with at least one Israeli parent (father or mother) are considered Israeli nationals. These children must enter and leave Israel on an Israeli passport.

British nationals with associations with other countries in the region

Dual nationals holding Iranian, Iraqi, Syrian and Lebanese citizenship have previously been heavily questioned, denied entry and deported. If a deportation flight is not available immediately, this can mean being detained until one is available, which can take a number of days. If you are a citizen of any of these countries, or have associations such as close family ties, the Israeli authorities advise you to check with your nearest Israeli embassy before travel to gain pre-approval for entry.  

Children and young people

Children aged 17 years and under travelling to Israel alone or with only one parent should carry a letter from their parents or guardians confirming parental consent, accommodation plans and contact details.

Children exiting Israel alone should carry a locally issued notarised letter as advised by external firms .     

For children with at least one Israeli parent, read the advice for dual nationals above.

Entry to Jordan

To enter Jordan from Israel, you must register in advance. Find more information on the Visit Jordan website .

Vaccination requirements

At least 8 weeks before your trip, check the vaccinations and certificates you need in TravelHealthPro’s Israel guide and TravelHealthPro’s Palestinian Territories guide .

Customs rules

There are strict rules about goods you can take into or out of Israel and the OPTs . You must declare anything that may be prohibited or subject to tax or duty.

Taking money into Israel and the OPTs

The Israeli Tax Authority provides information on taking money into or out of Israel .

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Matador Original Series

Traveling to Palestine Is Easier and Much Safer Than You Think

W hatever your interest in Palestine is — be it religious, historical, or cultural-political — there is no better way to get a clear picture of the territories than to visit them. Contrary to the images that the mere mention of Palestine conjures, traveling in the region is easy, safe, and the people are incredibly welcoming. Palestine is composed of two territories: the West Bank (located between Israel and Jordan) and the Gaza Strip (land bordering Israel and Egypt). Travelers can go to the West Bank, but the Gaza Strip is closed to tourism. Here is everything you need to know about visiting the West Bank and the Israeli side of the Gaza Strip border.

The Palestinian Territories are the areas delimited by the dotted lines. Photo: Google Maps

• Practical information about the West Bank for travelers

How to get to the West Bank from Israel

What to do in the west bank and where to start your visit, visiting the gaza strip border, the west bank, practical information about the west bank.

The currency used in the West Bank is the same as the one used in Israel: shekel (0.00 per 1 USD). The official language is Arabic although many people in the cities speak basic English. It’s recommended to dress modestly : Both men and women should cover their shoulders and legs, and even their heads and arms to enter some places such as temples and other sacred edifices. Most shops are closed on Fridays because it’s the resting day for Muslims (commercial activity also slows down during the month of Ramadan). But since there is a minority of Christians, some places are also closed on Sundays. Whatever you do, start early, because most places close around 4:00 PM. Note that summer is the hottest time of the year in Palestine, so avoid this season if you can’t handle the heat.

Safety: The West Bank is divided in three areas (A, B, and C), which are administered by Israel and the Palestinian Authority. It has lived in relative peace since the Second Intifada ended (2005), so the answer is yes, it’s safe to travel to the West Bank in general, so long as you follow local guidelines.

Where to stay: Bethlehem has the most accommodation options, which makes it perfect to use as your base. But all places have some kind of lodging. The choice is yours: Airbnb apartments or rooms, hostels, hotels, bed and breakfasts, and even homestays where you can work as a volunteer and participate in the annual olive harvest.

Transportation: We recommend the yellow mini-van shared taxis (pronounced serveece ), which cost about 10 percent of the price of a taxi. Hiring taxi drivers by the hour is an excellent option considering the cost-time benefit, especially if you are sharing the ride with a couple of travelers. Most rental cars companies don’t allow you to take the cars you rent in Israel to the West Bank.

Photo: Peace center restaurant /Facebook

Food: Palestinian cuisine has many Mediterranean influences, so you can expect plenty of fresh vegetables and olive oil. There are many Arabic fast-food places that serve falafels and shawarma, but you can also find other types of restaurants. Besides the ubiquitous hummus, try the musakhan (roasted chicken placed on a slice of bread and topped with chestnuts and tons of caramelized onions) at the Peace Center Restaurant in Bethlehem. For a treat, have a kanafeh , a delicious pastry made out of semolina dough, soaked in syrup, and layered with cheese — it can be purchased at most markets, cafes, street stands, and restaurants, and it pairs amazingly well with Arabic coffee. The West Bank also has some microbreweries worth trying; Taybeh Brewing Company is the oldest and is located in the Ramallah District.

You can get to the West Bank from Israel (through different checkpoints) and from Jordan (via Allenby Bridge about an hour from Amman). In both cases you’ll have to go through Israeli checkpoints. I’ve gone to the West Bank from Israel, and I was stopped and had my passport checked only on my way back to Israel. The process took less than 10 minutes, but the time can vary depending on the checkpoint. You’ll need to have your passport and your visa (the slip that was given to you when you entered the country since Israel doesn’t stamp passports) at all times.

Photo: gary yim /Shutterstock

Start in Bethlehem. Take a taxi (15 minutes) or the Bus 21 from Jerusalem (near Damascus Gate in the Old City, it takes 30 minutes). Once in Bethlehem, hire a taxi driver (negotiate the fixed price first) to take you around.

The best things to see and do in the West Bank depend on your interest, but here are some great spots to check out for those with a spiritual, cultural, or political pursuit.

According to the Bible, Bethlehem is the place where Jesus was born. Today, it has the biggest population of Arab Christians in the West Bank. The Old City, with its white houses and its narrow limestone streets, is a beautiful sight.

Photo: Victor Lauer /Shutterstock

The UNESCO’s World Heritage Church of the Nativity , right in the center of the Old City, is the oldest continuously operating church in the world (326 AD). The temple is administered by three different Christian denominations (Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, and Roman Catholic). Inside the Church, in the Grotto of the Nativity, is a 14-point silver star that marks the spot of Jesus’s birth. There are usually big lines of tourists waiting to enter, but if you go during lunch, you’ll have the place to yourself. You are allowed to bend over and touch the ground underneath the star, an exciting moment for Christian visitors from all over the world.

Photo: Yevgenia Gorbulsky /Shutterstock

Located 7.5 miles from Bethlehem, the Greek-Orthodox monastery of Mar Saba is one of the oldest inhabited monasteries in the world (483 AD), and it’s still functioning. Its founder, Saint Sabas, was one of the first hermit monks in the Negev desert where he worked to establish many other monasteries. The interior of the building is stunning, and one can see the remains of the saint. The setting of the monastery gives one of the most spectacular views of both Israel and Palestine. Women are not allowed to enter, but the drive through the desert to get there and the views are worth the little road trip (especially in the spring when the flowers are in bloom.)

Photo: eFesenko /Shutterstock

Many independent travelers want to visit the refugee camps in Palestine, built and still run by the United Nations and now transformed into established neighborhoods. Both Aida and Dheisheh are located near Bethlehem and are easy to visit. There, you can see the politically charged street art and talk to people, including activists about the current political situation. If you go to any refugee camp, go or stay with someone who is familiar with the security situation. Conflicts can arise quickly. Note that there are Airbnbs inside the camps .

Photo: badahos /Shutterstock

Bethlehem is also known for its street art. There are three pieces adjudicated to Banksy (who also owns a hotel there) although it is believed that only one is authentic. There are hundreds of street art pieces on the security barrier (wall) that Israel built in 2002 to stop the suicide bombers attacks that killed hundreds of civilians in the ‘90s. Although the attacks have stopped, the wall is extremely controversial and is dubbed the “Separation Wall” by Palestinians. You can go to “ The Banksy Shop ” and get some souvenirs (t-shirts, postcards, etc.) or buy spray paint and leave your personal message on the wall.

When hunger strikes, head to the little souq and buy some delicious snacks like fresh fruits, pastries, nuts and caramelized fruit, dates, etc. Hit one the street stands to enjoy a traditional pomegranate juice.

Other places of interest to visit in or near the Old City include the Chapel of the Milk Grotto , a sanctuary for women who want to increase their fertility and have a healthy breastmilk supply; Rachel’s Tomb where it’s said the biblical matriarch died in childbirth on her way to Hebron; The Mosque of Omar , the only mosque in the city; and the Old Bethlehem Museum for traditional and beautiful Palestinian embroidered clothing.

Photo: nayef hammouri /Shutterstock

Hebron is the city of Abraham (Ibrahim in Arabic) and the burial place of the biblical patriarchs and matriarchs (excerpt for Rachel), sacred to both Judaism and Islam. It’s not an easy city to visit because the Jewish settlements are within the city center and in the outskirts, so Hebron is geographically divided; you need to go through checkpoints to go from one side of the city to the other. Unlike the other places in the West Bank, the tension here is palpable, especially since 2014 when three Israelis teenagers were kidnapped and killed. Tension can escalate quickly, especially on Fridays.

On the other hand, if one wishes to learn more about the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, the visit to Hebron is essential. Take the Dual Narrative Hebron Tour led by two guides, one from Palestine and the other one from Israel, to get a very well balanced and broad perspective of this complex city.

Located only 6.2 miles north of Jerusalem, Ramallah is the administrative center of the West Bank (both Palestinians and Israelis consider Jerusalem to be their capital). The city is very cosmopolitan, full of shops, cafes and restaurants, people walking around and talking loudly. The center of Ramallah is Al-Manara Square, with its iconic four sculpted lions. Explore the Al-Muntazah neighborhood and visit the many places related to modern Palestine’s history, like Yasser Arafat’s presidential campground, and his gigantic and solemn tomb, guarded by soldiers and perpetually adorned with wreaths.

Photo: posztos /Shutterstock

The archaeological finds suggest that Jericho was built more than 10,000 years ago, which makes it one of the oldest cities in the world. You can visit the archeological site and then take a cable car to the Monastery of the Qurantul, built on the Mount of Temptation, where Christians believe Jesus was tempted by the Devil.

Other places to visit in the West Bank

• Qasr al-Yahud , on the Jordan River, is the place where some Christians believe Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist (you can see Jordan on the other side of this very narrow river). There is another bapstimal place in the North of Israel, near Tiberias.
• Nablus is located in a beautiful valley and known for its olive oil soap factories, olive-wood carvings, and its kanafeh. The old city is beautiful. Check out Mount Gerizim and spend some time learning about one of the world’s last communities of Samaritans. Nablus is also home to many hammams , so pick one to relax at the end of a long day of exploration. Hammam Ash-Shifa is a tried and tested bathhouse that we recommend.

Photo: Val_Yankin /Shutterstock

The Gaza Strip has been closed to tourism since Israel’s blockade (2006) when Islamist party Hamas took control. But, if you really want to learn about the conflict while you are here, you can get closer to the border to visit some of the neighboring villages and kibbutzim and to see the Strip from a distance.

Photo: Laura Bernhein /Facebook

We do not advise to go to the border by yourself, without anyone who is familiar with the security situation. Hamas attacks with rockets (and even with helium balloons full of explosives) are constant in this area and, once the alarms sound, you have only 10 seconds to get to a shelter. So please take it seriously, go with a local, and stay very alert.

Gaza’s population is almost two million people (one of the most densely populated places in the world). The unemployment rate is above 50 percent (some say it’s 70 percent for younger people), and its inhabitants have electricity only four to six hours a day. How things have got so bad in this part of the world is a long, complicated story that differs depending on who you talk to. Take this dual narrative North of Gaza Border Reality Tour for a comprehensive summary on the ancient and current history of the region. For me and my children, the three highlights of the tours were:

• The Ezer Crossing (the only crossing for people between Israel and Gaza open today) where we had the chance to talk to some Gazans who were waiting for the transportation to go to both Israel and the West Bank to receive medical treatment at the local hospitals. An old man told us with a smile, “We are neighbors, all sons and daughters of Ibrahim.”

• This menorah was made with rockets in the town of Sderot. Sderot is located less than one mile from the Gaza Strip and has been the target of attacks from Hamas. For that reason, the town is full of bomb shelters, as well as artworks made with the rockets destined to damage it.

• The visit to the Moshav Netiv HaAsara (a moshav is an agricultural village), where we participated in the Path to Peace Project by leaving a ceramic piece on the first wall (there are more) that signals the border between Israel and the Gaza Strip.

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My guide on how to visit Palestine

Middle East

The first question that comes to mind when people ask about visiting Palestine is – is it safe? Yes, it is safe, if you stay in the advised areas. Traveling through Palestine isn´t something you do and just think “I´ll wing it”. It takes some research, and you also need to understand that there are parts of Palestine that you are advised to stay away from, and there is a good reason for that. Unless you are willing to risk your life, which I obviously advise against. Other areas are super safe and breathtakingly beautiful. The population is welcoming and the food is mouthwatering. So yes, I highly recommend visiting Palestine when traveling through the Middle East.

Beware that since a lot of governments advise from traveling to Palestine your regular travel insurance might not be valid here. Make sure to get one that is. I would recommend World Nomads.

MY GUIDE ON HOW TO VISIT PALESTINE

The Gaza strip and the West bank | Getting in | Currency | Religion | When to go | Costs | Places to visit in Palestine | Jerusalem | Bethlehem | Hebron | Ramallah | Nablus | Jericho

The Gaza strip and the West bank

Palestinian territories are divided into two regions: the West Bank and the Gaza Strip, both separated by the state of Israel. You can’t enter Gaza unless you are a journalist or an NGO worker. Due to constantly ongoing wars, it is not safe to enter Gaza and therefore this post is for those traveling to the West Bank. The West Bank is a totally different place that has lived in peace with Israel for almost twenty years, since the Second Intifada .

Palestine is also divided into Area A; Area B and Area C.   This division was established during the  Oslo Accords , a series of agreements that were signed in the 1990s as part of the peace process.

Area A is in full control of the Palestinian Authorities. There are no Israeli settlements in Area A and Israeli citizens can’t enter it. This counts for around 18% of the West Bank and includes the cities of Ramallah, Bethlehem, Jericho, and about 80% of Hebron, among others.

Area B has Palestinian civil control and joint Israeli-Palestinian security control. It counts for about 22% of the West Bank and there are no Israeli settlements.

Area C is the remaining of the West Bank and it is under full Israeli civil and security control.

As there are no international airports in Palestine, it is only possible to enter the west bank overland through Israel or Jordan. All Palestinian territories are surrounded by a big concrete wall controlled by the Israeli military hence entering Palestine requires passing through an Israeli military checkpoint. There are two main checkpoints through which you can enter, the Qalandia checkpoint in Israel or the Allenby bridge crossing in Jordan. As an international visitor, it’s easiest to fly into Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv and from there it’s a 45 min taxi ride to the checkpoint. However, since Israel is a small country, the West Bank can be reached within a few hours by public transport or car from wherever you are within Israel. Just note that you are not allowed to bring a rental car from Israel into Palestine. If you do so, it is neither insured nor safe to use as means of transportations. The easiest way to enter is by bus to the border and then enter by foot. Well in Palestine the system of public transportation works well. If you are entering via Jordan the Allenby Bridge crossing is accessible by bus or taxi from Amman and takes a little over an hour. The more annoying part of this entry is the line to get in which is notorious for being long. You should allow at least 3h of queuing if you plan to enter through this way.

You use the same currency as in Israel in Palestine namely, New Israeli Shekel (NIS).

The most practised religion in Palestine is Sunni Islam. Therefore, it is advised to dress respectfully and cover shoulders, cleavage, arms and legs. Hebron , Nablus and Jenin are more traditional and conservative, so you should dress even more modestly there, headscarf is advised for women. Ramallah, the most cosmopolitan city on the west bank and also its capital, is a little bit more laid-back. The same goes for Bethlehem, the city with the largest Christian population.

The West Bank is a year-round destination. The winters get just slightly cold and the summers don´t get too hot unless you are traveling to some parts of the desert, like Jericho, where the weather can get extremely hot in the summer and freezing cold in the winter.

The West Bank is not really a budget destination, even if it is somewhat cheaper than other places in the Middle East. Count on spending a minimum of 25 – 35 USD per day. The cheapest option for accommodation is staying in hostels, for between 14-20 USD per night. If you´re travelling as a couple or a group of friends, I would suggest you stay in Airbnb´s as that would generally then be the most cost-effective. Where you can really save though is on food as portions are hefty and you really get a lot of bang for the buck.

Places to visit in Palestine

1. jerusalem .

Where to begin? Jerusalem is the holiest place for Christianity, Islam and Judaism. You can literally spend forever here and not stop being amazed, impressed and surprised. I have visited Jerusalem many many times and I never get tired of it. Jerusalem is part of Israel but the eastern part of the city is completely inhabited by Arabs.

Being so important to three main religions also makes it a melting pot for conflicts, meaning you will have to get used to the military constantly patrolling the streets. Their machine guns might seem intimidating, but it is really what makes Jerusalem a safe place.

Remember that you can be asked to show your passport at any time and therefore it is good to carry a copy of it with you.

Things to do in Jerusalem

The Western Wall  

Probably one of the most known sights in the World and one of the most important landmarks in the city. It is a very holy place where, every day, thousands of Jews come to pray. It is also called the Wailing Wall   as, during the Ottoman period, Jews would go there and lament the destruction of the previously destroyed Temple Mount. Visiting the Western Wall it is required to cover shoulders and knees, if you somehow forgot, there are robes to borrow free of charge. Visit the wall respectfully, do not take pictures of others and remember that it is a holy place and not actually a tourist attraction.

Temple Mount / Al-Haram ash-Sharif

Another landmark of Jerusalem and one of the holiest places both for Jews and Muslims. Biblically, this is where Abraham offered up his son Isaac for sacrifice. The Temple Mount is the third holiest site for Muslims after Mecca and Medina. In Muslim tradition, this is where the Prophet Mohammed made his “Night Journey” to the throne of God. Today, within the area of the Temple Mount, there are about 100 different structures to see spanning different time periods, including prayer locations, arches, and fountains.

Admission is free, but lines can be very long, so get there early. It is closed on Fridays and Saturdays.

Church of the Holy Sepulcher

The  Church of the Resurrection is one of the holiest sites within Christianity and is an impressive building, where Jesus was crucified. This site has been continuously recognized since the 4th century as the place where Jesus died, was entombed, and then rose from the dead.

Mount of Olives

Mount of Olives is towering over 800 meters above sea level and provide stunning views over Jerusalem. This holy site is associated with Islam, Judaism and Christianity, and has been used as a place of prayer and burial since the days of the First Temple.

2. Bethlehem 

Bethlehem is considered to be the birthplace of Jesus and the home of King David hence it attracts millions of visitors each year. It is a picturesque town overlooking the Judean Desert and during Christian holidays the festivities are endless. The pomp, ornate decor, and beautiful displays continue year-round and whether you are religious or not, it is well worth a visit.

Things to do in Bethlehem

The Church of the Nativity The Church of the Nativity is one of the oldest working churches in existence today. It is the oldest complete church in the world. It was built by the emperor Justinian in the 6th century. Erected in the place where Jesus is believed to have been born.

Aida Palestinian refugee camp

Aida camp was established in 1950 on land UNRWA leased from the government of Jordan. The camp is located between the municipalities of Bethlehem, Beit Jala and Jerusalem. It is partially surrounded by the West Bank Barrier. The Aida refugee camp is probably the most well-known refugee camp in the West Bank, but I also found it to be the most commercialized. It is possible to visit the camp and there are several help organizations, such as Volunteer Abroad that offers volunteer programs. The volunteer programs aim to provide help for the refugees but also aim to spread awareness of the situation in the camps.

Mar Saba Day trip

Mar Saba monastery in the Judean Desert is reputedly the oldest continuously inhabited monastery in the world, dating back to 439 CE (equivalent to 439 AD). It´s a Greek Orthodox monastery and women aren´t allowed inside the monastery at all but can view it from the opposite side of the phenomenal cliff-clinging copper-domed hermitage. Men, on the other hand, are permitted inside, where tours are available with one of the 15 monks in residence. Even if you´re a woman and cannot get inside, the surrounding Judean Hills and the Kidron Valley are amazingly beautiful places to hike, and the views are absolutely breathtaking. The monastery is set amid amazing scenery, with paths and steps going down into a beautiful valley below. It is only possible to visit the monastery from Bethlehem and therefore I suggest making a day trip out of it. Note that the monastery is closed on Wednesdays and Fridays and opening hours on other days are limited. For more information visit their website.

It really is a must-visit! With the ancient monastery and unique landscape, it feels like travelling back centuries in time.

Hebron the largest city in the West Bank, might be one of the most interesting places to visit in Palestine, but it is also the place with the most tension. There are Jewish settlements within the city, the old city specifically, and the animosity this creates is really noticeable. You can feel that people are on edge, that there is something bothering basically everyone. The Mosque and Synagogue at the Cave of the Patriarchs, one of the holiest sites for both Jews and Muslims, are separated by bulletproof glass. The military is constantly patrolling the streets. To understand why there is such tension, you need to understand the complicated history of Hebron and the ongoing social and political complications. Jews have been present in Hebron from Biblical times, and Muslims have also lived there for many centuries.

In the middle of the 19th century, Hebron was deeply Muslim, and the social climate was hostile against the Jews present in the city. After the 6 Days War in 1967, Hebron came under Israeli occupation. Because of its strong religious symbolism, the Jews then started to build settlements within the Old City itself. Today the city is divided into two areas, H1 (80% of the city controlled by Palestinian authorities ) and H2 (20% of the city controlled by the Israeli military).

Most of the Old City (H1 area) is protected by a fence, to protect both sides from throwing garbage, eggs, bleach and even excrements at each other. Balconies and windows are protected by heavy metal bars. The hatred towards the Israeli settlers is expressed in every other sentence and more so to foreigners visiting. A large part of the Old City has been abandoned as the Palestinian population there have found it too difficult to make a living under the Israeli Military law and because of the division of the old city restricting Palestinian movement between areas within the old city. In the H1 old city areas, you’ll therefore see a lot of empty houses, shops and restaurants.

To visit Abrahams tomb, you must leave the H1-area through a military checkpoint. From there you can enter the tomb as it is literally located between the synagogue and the mosque, so it’s visible from both sites, but separated by bulletproof glass.

The H2 area, the Jewish side, is basically just a residential area for the Israeli settlers and passage for the Israeli military between and around the settlements.

It is a complex place and the history of the conflict is so complicated it is impossible to know what’s “right or wrong”. In order to best understand what’s going on and to form your own opinion, I encourage you to talk to both the Palestinians and the Jews living in Hebron. The conflict is well known internationally and both sides are happy to share their story. Another great option is to take a guided dual perspective tour . The tour will be done by two guides sharing their life story, their experiences and feelings regarding living in Hebron. All is done with empathy for each of their respective countries and without demonizing the other side. It’s a very interesting experience that brings out a lot of emotions and thoughts about humanity’s bad and good sides. It truly is the best way to see both sides of the story and to get a grasp of the complexity and the scope of the situation.

4. Ramallah

Ramallah differs a lot from the rest of the cities in the West Bank. Here the tension is less noticeable, people carry on with their daily life and a lot of them even crosses the border every day to go and work in Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Haifa or other Israeli cities. It´s a place with lots of restaurants, bars and pubs, but also with lots of history. Here you find the Palestinian History Museum and the tomb of Yasser Arafat.

Things to do in Ramallah

The Mausoleum and Museum

The place where the former President Yasser Arafat is buried is also a Historical Museum that showcases the story of Palestine from the Israeli-Palestinian conflict perspective. It is a really interesting museum and I would recommend spending a few hours, maybe even half a day here.

Eat, eat and eat.

There are so many restaurants in Ramallah and the food is mouthwatering! Palestinian food really is something! Try Peter´s Place ,  with stunning views over Palestine and the Dead Sea and a décor that brings the history of Palestine alive. The menu always changes and it is really one of the best places to experience Palestinian cuisine. And please, don´t miss out on the hummus. Hummus is generally eaten for two out of three meals per day and it´s safe to say that some of the best hummus in the world is found in the West Bank, and particularly so in Ramallah. Another great hummus place is Abu Walid. It isn´t fancy, rather the opposite. It’s a very simple place, plastic chairs, one big pot of hummus, pickles and lemonade. Located behind the maze-like fruit and vegetable market, Abu Walid is a bit tricky to find, but ask any local and you will be pointed in the direction of some of the best hummus you will ever taste!

Visit the Old City of Ramallah

The Old City will bring you back to the Ottoman empire. The Old City includes ruins of the ancient watchtower and the Ottoman court. This area of the city will give you a real authentic taste of Palestinian life.

Try the nightlife

Yes maybe bars and clubs aren´t the first to come to your mind when thinking about Palestine and the west bank, but this is a big part of life in Ramallah. The places to go is ever-changing and the best way to hit a homerun is to talk to the locals. They will not only tell you where to go, but they will invite you to their pre-drinks and bring you out with them into the young nights of Ramallah.

Nablus is an off the beaten track destination located in a beautiful valley between Mount Ebal and Gerizim. It has one of the most beautiful old cities in the Middle East. It is a vibrant city, the locals are super friendly and the food is just amazing. On top of that, it is home to some of the world´s best olive oil shops.

Things to do in Nablus

The Old City – Qasaba

Nablus  itself was actually modelled on the capital city of Damascus and wandering the streets of the Old City you will see remains of ancient mosques, public drinking fountains, the alleyways and passages of the Old City, and traditional balconies.

Eat the world´s best Kanafeh

Kna-what? Kanafeh is a traditional  Middle Eastern  dessert made with shredded  filo pastry, or alternatively, fine semolina dough, soaked in sweet, sugar-based syrup, and typically layered with cheese, or with other ingredients such as  clotted cream  or nuts. Even if it doesn´t sound very appetizing it is one of the most popular deserts in Palestine, and most parts of the Middle East. And let me tell you – it is absolutely delicious. Luckily the world´s best Kanafeh can be found in Nablus at Al-Aqsa. Ask the locals for the way and join them in eating the warm Kanafeh in the street outside the tiny eatery Al-Aqsa.

Jericho is considered the oldest inhabited city in the world. It is also the lowest city on earth, at 400 meters below sea level. It is filled with stunning Christian monasteries as well as ancient ruins, plenty of beautiful hikes and a Bedouin culture.

Things to do in Jericho

Visit Saint George Koziba monastery

A beautiful Greek Monastery was carved into the rocks in Wadi Quilt. The location has great religious significance and is well worth a visit. A dusty road leads up to the monastery and you can either walk or ride on a donkey-taxi to the monastery gate. Unlike many other monasteries, this one is open to female visitors. Even if the entrance is free it´s a good idea to get there early as it quickly fills up with pilgrims and tourists. The monastery welcomes guests from Monday to Saturday 9 am to 1 pm. It is safe to travel to the monastery but probably better to take a guided tour ,  rather than traveling solo, it is a bit of a haggle going there by public transportation. There are plenty of private tours, but I used Micheal Tours and I was really happy with my choice. Michael is super professional and has a lot of knowledge about the West Bank. The tour groups are small and really gives you a chance to see all that you want to see in one day.

Mount of temptation and the Monastery of Quarantul

One of the most impressive sites in the entire West Bank is the Monastery of the Qurantul, built on the spot where the Bible says Jesus resisted Satan after his 40-day fast in the desert. Visitors to the mount can take the cable car from  Tel Jericho  to the summit or hike up the mount which will take about half an hour. A visit to the Mount of Temptation is often combined with a visit to Jericho or the Dead Sea because of their proximity. There aren´t really any opening hours for the monastery so the best thing is to go with Micheal tours again or another private tour of your preference.

What are you planning to do when you visit Palestine? Let us know in the comments below.

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© THE INTERCEPT

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Israel Tightens Restrictions on Travel to the Occupied Territories

A new 97-page directive is aimed at restricting the flow of foreigners of Palestinian descent and others who want to visit the West Bank.

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Sandra Tamari was traveling to a family wedding in the West Bank when security officers at Israel’s Ben Gurion Airport pulled her aside. For hours, they questioned her about her parents, grandparents, employer, and previous travels. They ordered her to write the names and contact details of everyone she planned to visit and made her list all her email addresses. Then, a security officer turned a computer screen toward her and ordered her to log into her Gmail account.

“That’s when I said, ‘No way,’” Tamari, a U.S. citizen of Palestinian descent, told The Intercept. When she refused, she was detained overnight and then deported back to the U.S. An officer told her she was denied entry because she posed a security threat.

While the West Bank and Gaza are occupied territories and not part of Israel, Israeli officials control access to them, monitoring the movement of anyone traveling there — and regularly denying entry to foreigners who are visiting for personal, family, or professional reasons. For years, international travelers, and particularly those of Palestinian descent, have been at the whims of border officials. The process was often degrading, unpredictable, and arbitrary.

Now much of that process has been codified by the Coordination of Government Activities in the Territories, known as COGAT, the unit of Israel’s Defense Ministry tasked with administering civilian issues in the Palestinian territories that Israel occupies. In a 97-page document issued earlier this spring, COGAT officials introduced a slate of severe restrictions on international travel to the occupied West Bank, which they refer to as “Judea and Samaria.”

“Before this, it was kind of like Russian roulette when you got to an Israeli border crossing if you’re a Palestinian foreign passport holder: You’d just never know, are you going to get in, are you not going to get in,” Zaha Hassan, a human rights lawyer and fellow at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, told The Intercept. “Now at least you know what the rules are, and they are all in one place. But the rules are pretty egregious.”

The new rules formalize invasive questioning that has long been the reality for those traveling to the territories. Some — like a requirement that those visiting Palestinian family members disclose a series of personal details about them — have always been the norm. But the rules also include a new slate of restrictions that Palestinians in the diaspora warn will drastically curtail their ability to visit their families and homeland. They include a condition that visitors disclose details about any land they might own or expect to inherit in the territories, a limit to the number of trips one can make, and a requirement that visitors apply for a permit 45 days before traveling — a measure introduced during the Covid-19 pandemic, ostensibly for public health reasons, that Israel is now seeking to make permanent.

The rules also curtail the travel of non-Palestinian visitors to the territories, including caps on the number of visiting scholars and students. But they do not apply to those seeking to travel to Israeli settlements in the West Bank, which are illegal under international law but which Israel effectively treats as an extension of its territory. The rules were slated to kick in later this month, but a legal challenge raised by an Israeli group has temporarily delayed implementation to early this summer .

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While they apply to Palestinians holding any foreign passports, as well as non-Palestinian foreigners visiting the territories from anywhere else in the world, the rules have raised particular concerns for Palestinian Americans, many of whom have long felt the U.S. government is doing far too little to address Israel’s discriminatory policies toward them. At least two draft letters are currently circulating among legislators, asking U.S. officials to address Israel’s new restrictions on travel to the West Bank.   A spokesperson for the U.S. State Department wrote in a statement to The Intercept that officials there “continue to study the new regulations and are engaging with Israeli authorities to understand their application and encourage additional consultation with stakeholders before implementation.” The spokesperson added, “We seek equal treatment and freedom to travel for all U.S. citizens regardless of national origin or ethnicity.”

A spokesperson for Israel’s Ministry of Defense deferred questions to COGAT, which did not respond to a request for comment.

U.S. critics of the rules note that they come at a time when U.S. officials can exercise particular leverage, as Israel is currently seeking to join the U.S. visa waiver program, which allows visitors from participating countries to travel to the U.S. for business or tourism without a visa. In March, the U.S. and Israel signed an information exchange agreement bringing Israel closer to approval for the program. The State Department spokesperson said that officials are “reviewing the regulations in detail in order to determine if there is any linkage to the requirements of the Visa Waiver Program.” He added, “The U.S. government continues to work with Israel towards fulfilling all program requirements, including extending reciprocal privileges to all U.S. citizens and nationals upon arrival — including Palestinian Americans.”

Participation in the visa waiver initiative is predicated on reciprocal treatment — meaning Palestinian Americans seeking to enter Israel and the West Bank should expect the same guarantees as Israeli citizens traveling to the U.S. That’s hardly the case currently: For instance, U.S. citizens who also hold Palestinian IDs are denied access to Ben Gurion Airport altogether and must travel through Jordan, while other U.S. citizens can travel through Israel.

“In the past, American citizens have complained to the State Department about discrimination, and the U.S. response has always been that Israel has sovereign right to exclude people it doesn’t want,” Hassan said. “But the problem here is that Israel is not sovereign over the West Bank. It’s occupied territory.” She added, “This is actually a moment in which the U.S. could very well help to change policies that are impacting Americans attempting to work, study, and visit in the West Bank.”

Palestinian passes through an Israeli security checkpoint from Ramallah into Jerusalem on April 29, 2022, in Ramallah, West Bank.

Surveillance Project

The new COGAT rules appear to serve multiple purposes: by discouraging travel to the West Bank, they further isolate Palestinians and seek to undercut growing global solidarity with them. They limit the ability of foreigners of Palestinian descent to maintain ties with their families and homeland. And they enable the large-scale collection of personal data on anyone traveling to the territories, feeding into a sprawling surveillance effort already underway that some have dubbed Israel’s “ Facebook for Palestinians .”

“Israel is in the process of creating this massive data project, mapping Palestinian relationships, property holdings, and all kinds of other information,” said Hassan. “This is something they have always done. But now they want you to proactively give them that information.”

“Israel is in the process of creating this massive data project, mapping Palestinian relationships, property holdings.”

The requirement that those applying for permits to visit the West Bank disclose details about land they might own or inherit has caused particular alarm, raising echoes of the “Absentee Property Law” by which Israel has justified expropriating the land of countless Palestinians who left, fled, or were forcibly expelled during its founding. The provision in the new rules is especially concerning to those owning property in “ Area C ,” a large swath of the West Bank where illegal Israeli settlements are fast growing.

“Maybe if you have property in Area C you don’t get in, and maybe under Israeli military law, if a property is abandoned, then the state can take it,” said Hassan, in reference to the new travel requirement. “The issue is that Israel is extending its sovereignty over the West Bank. And these COGAT rules are just an expression of that.”  

Palestinian Americans and others critical of Israeli policies have long denounced treatment like the one now codified by COGAT — to little avail.

A car drives past a sign for the Allenby (King Hussein) crossing point to Jordan, in the city of Jericho in the occupied West Bank, on Jan. 28, 2021.

When Tamari was detained at Ben Gurion Airport, she was allowed to call the U.S. Embassy. She recalled that the staffer who responded on the citizen services’ line immediately asked her, “Are you Jewish?” When she said that she was Palestinian, the staffer told her, “There’s really nothing we can do for you,” she says.

“The issue is that Israel is extending its sovereignty over the West Bank. And these COGAT rules are just an expression of that.”

Back in the U.S., Tamari spoke with her congressional representative, and she and her supporters delivered a petition to the State Department and met with officials involved with consular services in Israel. “None of the information we presented was surprising to them,” she told The Intercept. “I don’t think there’s any motivation on the part of the U.S. to protect Palestinians.”

The failed trip was Tamari’s last attempt to visit her family’s homeland: “I have missed out on a whole generation of cousins that I haven’t met,” she said.

Her ordeal was hardly unheard of for Palestinian holders of foreign passports who are regularly turned away by Israeli officials. “There are hundreds and hundreds of stories of Palestinians with U.S. passports who have been denied entry,” Tamari said. “The separation of families is part of the Israeli weaponry against Palestinians, and it’s unfortunately very painful and traumatic.”

So far, few U.S. legislators have been willing to criticize Israel’s treatment even of U.S. citizens.

“We know that Congress has the capacity to really influence these sorts of decisions, especially because at this point, there’s a large population of Palestinians in the United States who would be directly impacted by this,” Iman Abid-Thompson, national director of advocacy and organizing at the U.S. Campaign for Palestinian Rights, told The Intercept.

“If there’s a silver lining to be looked at upon here, it’s the fact that we are now able to see, verbatim, what it is that we have been saying,” she added. “The United States can look past it, if it so chooses, as it already does, or it can actually see what Palestinians have been saying for decades.”

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The ONLY Travel Guide You'll Ever Need When Visiting Palestine

Every Pro-Palestine supporter dreams to one day visit the beautiful land of Palestine. Often times, with Israel being in charge of who can and cannot visit, it's hard to have a peaceful traveling experience. Different tourist sites are blocked off depending on the IOF's mood that day, and you usually need impossible to attain permission to visit major landmarks. We (just as much as anyone else) would love to be able to see and experience Palestine despite the harsh rules set in place by the IOF. For that reason we have made an incredibly useful Palestine travel guide! Use this guide to enhance your travel experience and enjoy the fresh Palestinian air while the unfortunate hassle is minimized through our tips and recommendations.

1. Getting To Palestine: How To Prepare For Travel

There are varying methods on how to get into Palestine, and that all depends on a few things. Do you have a Palestinian passport? Are you only an American citizen? Do you have family in Palestine and or Jordan? All of these things are determinants as to what is going to be the best way for you to get into Palestine.

Flying through Ben Guirion Airport

• The only airport that flew into the West bank was shut down by the Israeli government in 2000. If you want to get into Palestine through his airport, you would need to be carrying a passport other than a Palestinian passport (Hawiya)

Booking Flights:

• If you're not too confined by dates, you can use the anytime feature on sites like Skyscanner or Google Flights to find the best deals.
• Book on a Sunday, with flights departing on a Tuesday. Those tend to be when you can find slight dips in price. Try your best to book 3 - 6 months in advance as well.
• Sites like Kayak, SkyScanner, are great tools. Avoid TripAdvisor and Booking.com for their refusal to acknowledge Palestines' existence.
• Those who posses a green ID can ONLY use this option
• During the summer, this can be a lengthy process. Taking Up to 14 hours from the time you get to the Checkpoint to the destination.

2. Passing the Checkpoints: What You Need To Know

Both Palestinian territories, Gaza and the West Bank, are subjugated to brutal Military occupation, requiring you to successfully pass through Israeli checkpoints in order to visit.

Quick Tips:

• Stay Calm - Seeing men and women with large weapons that have the capacity to kill can be very intimidating, it is best to put on your best poker face and get through the quickest way you can.
• Have ALL your Papers on Hand - Passports, ID’s, even tickets sometimes, will be required at these checkpoints so have them in a place where you can quickly grab them.
• Keep your Pride in Check- We ALL know how much pride Palestinians carry in being Palestinian, and these checkpoints can make you feel sub-human but its best to not let it get to your head and ignore their intimidation tactics to cause the least amount of issues.

3. Lodging: Places To Enjoy During Your Stay

Finding the best hotels, owned by Palestinians. There are many hotels owned by Palestinian families and/or Palestine supporters and we have listed a few here for your convenience!

Hashimi Hotel

⭐️ Review: "We loved everything about our stay. Location was so central and within a walking distance everywhere we wanted to go to in the old city of Jerusalem. Room were so clean, comfortable beds. The view was astonishing..." - H Neumann

Walled Off Hotel

⭐️ Review: "Across the street from the Apartheid wall in Bethlehem is a hotel that artist Banksy has built a hotel that expresses the life of Palestinians due to the occupation. The staff were efficient, friendly, and so helpful." - Munir Alawi (Google Reviews)

DO NOT BOOK WITH AIRBNB!

In 2018, AirBnB committed to removing all listings from stolen homes in Palestine, but soon reversed their decision in 2019 listing settlements as vacation spots.

4. During Your Stay: Things You NEED To See and Eat

What You Need To See:

• Avoid touristic/historical sites in Jerusalem, the Old City, and the occupied Golan Heights which are run by the Israeli occupation.
• Increasingly visit Palestinian families in both the West Bank and Gaza, as well as camps.
• Traveling to Palestine is not just a vacation, but a beautiful reminder to acknowledge and take in the history and reality of what has happened throughout the land.
• Take a trip to the "Al-Aqsa Mosque Compound" and "The Old City" - Take a trip back into history by taking a step into the Old city of Jerusalem.

Foods You Need To Try:

We totally recommend that you try as much food as you can throughout your stay! There are so many mouthwatering flavors to take in and enjoy all over the streets of Palestine, so take advantage and enjoy the savory tastes the culture has to offer! Here are some hot spots we recommend you make it a point to stop by on your food tour!

• You cannot visit an Arab country without taking a sip of the beautiful caffeinated beverage we call coffee. Lucky for you, we have a separate blog about "6 Must Try Coffee Shops in Palestine" .
• BOOZA!🍦 You can never go wrong by spending an entire vacation eating ice cream. I would even go as far to say that it is sacrilegious to avoid it. Read our blog about the "5 Ice Cream Spots in Palestine You NEED to Know About" and add it to your Palestinian vacation.

5. Enjoying All There Is and More

• Watch a golden sunset at the top of the "Mount of Olives" in Jerusalem. The view at the top gives you the best orientation of the Old City, Ein Karem, and the horizon. This is a view that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world. The view transcends words.
• Don't be scared to rock Pali Gear during your visit. Like aforementioned, avoid Pali Gear at checkpoints and airports, but there should be no fear in rocking a Pali Cap on the beach, or at the Al-Aqsa Compound. Represent your Pro-Palestine Gear with PRIDE.
• If you want to get an idea of what your experience in Palestine could look like, check out PaliRoots' own Palestine Travel Series available on our youtube channel right now.

6. Leaving You On A Final Note

Traveling to Palestine tends to be associated with some heartache and longing that may deter you from wanting to visit but we urge you to make it a point to take the time to explore Palestine's extensive and beautiful history. Take our advice and book your flight to Palestine as soon as you can. This blog was designed for your use to ensure a blissful and purposeful experience for you and your loved ones on your unforgettable journey.

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Update April 12, 2024

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Latest Information for U.S. Citizens

Information for U.S. Citizens in Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza

The Department reminds U.S. citizens of the continued need for caution and increased personal security awareness as security incidents often take place without warning. The security environment remains complex and can change quickly depending on the political situation and recent events. Please see the latest Israel Security Alert .

U.S. citizens should heed the  Travel Advisory  for Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza. The U.S. Embassy continues to closely monitor the dynamic security situation in Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza. There are active military operations and active rocket and mortar fire in Gaza and the Gaza periphery.  Terrorist groups, lone-actor terrorists and other violent extremists continue plotting possible attacks in Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza. Terrorists and violent extremists may attack with little or no warning, targeting tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, and local government facilities. Violence can occur in Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza without warning. If you require emergency assistance while in Israel, the West Bank or Gaza, contact the  U.S. Embassy in Jerusalem  by email ([email protected]).

Individuals seeking to depart Gaza  through the Rafah crossing into Egypt should monitor the  Palestinian General Authority for Crossings and Borders’ Facebook Page  for a list of those approved to cross. U.S. citizens, Lawful Permanent Residents, or immediate family (as listed below) who desire our assistance and have not already provided their information to the Department of State, please email U.S. Embassy Jerusalem at  [email protected]  with a copy of the individual’s travel document as well as an explanation or proof of relationship.

The U.S. government does not control the crossing lists nor determine who is permitted to depart Gaza or enter Egypt. Individuals must assess their own safety and risks in attempting to cross the border. Individuals permitted to enter Egypt will likely receive a 72-hour Egyptian visa; all those who cross should have a plan for onward travel from Egypt in this timeframe. U.S. citizens, LPRs and their immediate family members who successfully enter Egypt and require further consular assistance should contact the  U.S. Embassy in Cairo  via the  U.S. Citizens Services Navigator .  Individuals may apply for a U.S. visa at any U.S. Embassy or Consulate; U.S. immigration laws and regulations will apply.

If a name has appeared on a crossing list since November 1, we understand those individuals will be permitted to cross as long as the border remains open for foreign nationals. We urge U.S. citizens, LPRs, and their immediate family members who have appeared on one of these lists to cross as soon as possible – there is no guarantee the border will remain open. We continue to work in partnership with Egypt and Israel towards safe passage for U.S. citizens, LPRs, and their immediate family members.

Immediate family members of U.S. citizens include:

• unmarried children under the age of 21, and
• parents of U.S. citizens.

If the U.S. citizen is under 21, immediate family will also include any siblings who are also unmarried and under 21.

Immediate family members of LPRs include:

• unmarried children under 21 years of age.

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2 Week Israel & Palestine Itinerary

The land of Israel and Palestine is one of the most fascinating places in the world. From the rich history to the religious importance to Jews, Muslims, and Christians alike, stunning natural beauty, vibrant cities, and incredible food scene there is so much to see, learn and experience. So, how do you figure out what to see and do? Here are my suggestions for a 2 week Israel & Palestine itinerary and a few tips to get your started. 

Are Israel and Palestine Safe to Visit?

One of the biggest questions when it comes to this part of the world is, are Israel and Palestine safe to visit? As someone who has been multiple times and lived in Tel Aviv for 3 months, I say yes. That’s not to downplay the existence of the conflict, but this part of the world is not as violent and war-torn as the media would have you think and both Israel and Palestine are safe for tourists. Of course, if tensions are high then certain areas might need to be avoided. But, overall, I don’t think visiting Israel and Palestine is any more dangerous than visiting many cities in the USA.

That being said, there is a high level of security in Israel, especially in Jerusalem. As you go through the West Bank you will also notice the checkpoints. It can be intimidating to see so many armed soldiers but, it’s everyday life here and most of the soldiers are very friendly and often interested in chatting with tourists. 

Do I Need to Take a Tour? Or Can I Travel Independently?

This depends on your preferred travel style and the nature of your trip. Many people do visit on a tour, especially individuals going for religious purposes. However, it’s also very easy to visit as an independent traveller. That being said, I do recommend taking day trips with guides in some places. Most notably, you will see below that I suggest taking guided tours of Palestinian cities because I feel like it’s the best way to experience and learn. Especially when it comes to the refugee camps, it’s more respectful to visit with local rather than on your own. However, as a whole, I recommend independent travel whether you are travelling solo, with friends, or with your family.

Best time of Year to go to Israel and Palestine

There are two things to be mindful of when travelling to Israel and Palestine. The first is the time of year in terms of the weather and temperature. After all, this is the Middle East and it gets incredibly hot. I personally love to visit in the fall (I’ve been twice in November and still been able to go to the beaches) or early spring, around March. The summer months can be stifling with heat and humidity and winter can be very rainy and damp.

The second thing to be mindful of when planning your trip to Israel and Palestine is the holidays as things do run differently. Some, like Hanukkah or Purim, are fun for visitors and not much is impacted from a tourist perspective. However, during Passover or the Jewish High Holidays, a lot of things will shut down for a couple of days. So, it’s not necessarily the best time.

Similarly, be aware of when Ramadan occurs for any Palestine visits. Since fasting occurs at this time it can be difficult as a tourist to find open restaurants and places to eat during the day. Also, having travelled through Muslim countries during Ramadan before, the local people tend to (understandably) be a bit more grumpy and abrupt when fasting so, overall, I just recommend planning your visit around this holiday.

Getting Around Israel and Palestine

Public transit throughout Israel isn’t too bad. There is a train system that connects many places very easily. There is also a bus system for the more off-track spots. However, bus journeys can be long. If you plan on using public transit, it’s in your best interest to purchase a RavKav card. This is a pre-loaded card you can use to purchase both bus and train tickets. You can get them at the airport or train stations.

There are also taxis which are cash only (I suggest downloading the Gett Taxi app, this way you can link your credit card) and small minibuses called sheruts that work like shared taxis. These are commonly used on Shabbat (Friday evening-Saturday evening) when public transportation in the country shuts down. Please keep the lack of transportation on Shabbat in mind when planning your 2 weeks in Israel and Palestine.

Palestine does not have the same type of public transport network as Israel. The most reliable way to get around Palestine is by taxi although there are some buses that will take you from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Again, in this itinerary I recommend a guided tour so transportation into Palestine will be taken care of for you, but should you want to visit on your own, transportation will require a bit of advance planning.

Finally, it is possible to rent a car in Israel. It’s an expensive option but does allow for the most freedom. That being said, Israelis can be crazy drivers and traffic can be ridiculous so I recommend sticking to public transit if you are only spending 2 weeks in Israel and Palestine.  

2 Week Israel and Palestine Itinerary

I’ve spent a lot of time in this part of the world and still have a lot to see. But, for those looking to spend 2 weeks in Israel and Palestine, I would recommend this itinerary. I’ve created it to include the least amount of travel time but keep in mind that depending on the days you are visiting, you may have to readjust the schedule. A lot shuts down during Shabbat so plan around that as needed. With that in mind, here is my suggested itinerary.

Days 1 & 2: Jerusalem

I recommend starting your 2 weeks in Israel and Palestine in the Holy City, Jerusalem. It’s a short, 26-minute train ride from the airport.

This will be your base for the next few days so I recommend choosing a central hotel that is close to The Old City or Shuk Machaneh Yehuda. If you are looking for somewhere cheap to stay try Abraham Hostel which has both private rooms and shared dorms. If you aren’t as budget conscious, there are some beautiful central properties such as:

• Bezalel Hotel 
• Old City Boutique Hotel

Jerusalem is quite a large city and there is a lot to see and do which means you will have a busy couple of days. The Old City is the highlight for many. I highly recommend taking a tour with a guide as there is so much history and so much to see inside these walls. There’s no shortage of tours and guides available for Jerusalem. If you are looking for recommendations and something different consider this Dual Narrative Tour which allows you to experience the city and history through the eyes of an Israeli Jew and Palestinian. It’s fascinating. 

You can also walk around and explore on your own. Make sure to see:

• The Church of the Holy Sepulchre
• Al Aqsa Mosque (best visited on a tour as you can only go at certain times. Make sure to dress appropriately)
• The Western Wall
• The Arabic Market (My favourite shop is Sinjalawi!)
• Via Dolorosa

I also recommend spending some time exploring the Machaneh Yehuda Shuk which is the marketplace. From craft beer to spices and teas, knafeh and hummus, there are so many great spots to eat here. PS: Foodies should read my picks for where to eat in Jerusalem.

Finally, I recommend spending a couple of hours to going to Yad Vashem , which is the World Holocaust Remembrance Centre.

For more ideas on what to see and do in Jerusalem check out my blog post.

Day 3: Nablus Day Trip

Today I recommend exploring the Palestinian city of Nablus. I highly suggest taking this tour with Green Olive Tours, which is who I used and highly recommend.

Nablus is one of the largest Palestinian cities and has tons of history, both biblical and political. It’s home to the largest Palestinian refugee camp in the West Bank as well as an incredible Old City with winding streets full of friendly vendors. Nablus is also famous for knafeh, a cheese dessert commonly eaten in the Middle East, so make sure to try some before you leave!  

Day 4: Bethlehem Day Trip

No Israel and Palestine itinerary is complete without a visit to Bethlehem! Bethlehem is a Palestinian city just a few minutes outside of Jerusalem. It’s most famous for being the biblical birthplace of Jesus and attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists. You can easily visit Bethlehem on your own but having been twice, I again recommend a tour because there is a lot to see and do.

The type of tour you take will depend on what you want to see and do. If you are interested in politics, then Green Olive Tours offers a great Bethlehem full-day trip.

If you are more interested in the history and visiting inside the Church of the Nativity then consider this Bethlehem half day tour.

Other things to see in and around Bethlehem include:

• The Walled Off Hotel (the Banksy Hotel, be sure to visit the museum inside)
• The street art/graffiti on the wall
• Mar Saba Monastery

  Day 6: The Dead Sea Day Trip

After a busy few days exploring, today is a good day to relax and visit one of the most unique places in the world: The Dead Sea! This is a saltwater lake located between Jordan and the West Bank. It’s the lowest point on earth and the water here is so salty that you can’t actually swim, just float!

You can visit by bus from Jerusalem if you like, or take a day tour. Some day tours also include a visit to Masada and Ein Gedi National Park, in which case you have less time at the actual Dead Sea itself. It depends on how you want to spend your day. Consider these day trip options:

• Masada & Dead Sea
• Dead Sea Chill Out

Dead sea tips: Don’t shave the day of, don’t get in the water if you have any cuts or open wounds, and don’t dunk your head and get the water in your eyes and hair.

  Day 7: Gaza Border Tour Day Trip

In the last few years, a couple of tour companies have started offering Gaza border tours. The Gaza strip is closed off completely to tourism. The blockade is enforced by Israel and Egypt and borders are heavily militarized. It’s a highly political area and a tour here allows some insight into the history, why it’s blockaded, and life not only for the Palestinians living in Gaza but also the Israelis who live in the border cities which are frequently hit by the rockets. This is a long, and heavy tour but very eye-opening.

I took this Gaza border tour with Green Olive Tours.

Days 9 & 10: Mitzpe Ramon

Time to leave Jerusalem and head out to the desert! Mitzpe Ramon is about 3 hours from Jerusalem by bus but it’s an easy enough route and definitely worth seeing this part of the country.

The crater here is the highlight, think of it as Israel’s version of the Grand Canyon. Another spot I loved visiting was the Alpaca farm. If you are lucky, you’ll also get clear skies and be able to do some star viewing as well.

I suggest spending 2 nights here so you have one full day to explore. There are a few accommodation options including hostels and hotels. But if you are up to splurge check out Beresheet which is set on the cliff edge for a unique luxury experience.

Days 11 & 12: Tel Aviv

In the morning, head to Tel Aviv. The journey is about 3 hours by bus so I suggest leaving early enough to enjoy most of your day in Tel Aviv.

Tel Aviv is one of my favourite cities in the world. I will admit that I see it more as a living city rather than a tourist city, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t anything to do.

One of the biggest draws of Tel Aviv is the beaches that line the coastline. Even if it is not swimming weather it’s a great place to hang out or enjoy a walk down the tayelet (boardwalk). Tel Aviv is incredibly walkable but they do have a good bus system as well if you need to use it. Personally, I prefer the south end of the city, from Shuk Ha Carmel (the market) down to Jaffa, which is the ancient Port.

Shuk Ha Carmel is a must. It’s very busy but it’s a lot of fun to walk through and browse everything from fruit shakes to spices to sunglasses and t-shirts.

Jaffa is very mixed with lots of Israeli and Arabic businesses. The Jaffa Flea Market is always fun to browse and the Old Town is a beautiful spot to take photos.

I also really love the neighbourhoods of Florentin (famous for street art and Shuk Levinsky, which is the spice market) and Neve Tzedek which is a beautiful upscale neighbourhood with lots of boutiques and European-style restaurants.

The food and drink scene in Tel Aviv is fantastic. So, check out my Tel Aviv Food guide for my top picks on where to eat as well as some other tips and suggestions. 

Looking for a place to stay in Tel Aviv? Try:

• Abraham Hostel for a budget option
• The David Kepinski Tel Aviv for beachfront 
• Trieste Neve Tzedek for a unique boutique Suite  
• The Jaffa for top end luxury 

Day 13: Akko Day Trip

While in Tel Aviv I also highly recommend a day trip to Akko, which can easily be done by train. Akko is a walled city in Northern Israel. It’s a mixed city full of history and today is known to be a place of co-existence where Jews and Arabs live and work together.  As a whole, Akko is more Jewish than Arabic but the Old Town is mostly Arabic.

Old Town Akko is small but there’s quite a bit to see and do. Definitely enough to keep you busy for a full day. However, I highly recommend you plan a bit in advance so you can make lunch or dinner reservations at Uri Buri , one of the most famous restaurants in Israel. I did the tasting menu and it was one of the best meals of my life, so please don’t miss it!

Read more about Akko and my recommendations on what to see and do here.

If you would prefer to do a group day trip rather than go on your own, you can do this trip to Akko which also include a stop at Caesarea and Haifa.

Day 14: Tel Aviv-depart

Today is your last day in this 2-week Israel and Palestine itinerary. Depending on the time of your flight you might have some time to explore more of Tel Aviv, do some last-minute souvenir shopping, or spend some time at the beach. When the time comes, you can easily take the train to the airport from any of Tel Aviv’s train stations or take a bus or taxi. If you want to take a taxi, I recommend booking a Hadar Taxi in advance. This is an airport taxi with a flat rate that will be cheaper than Gett Taxi. 

If You Have More Time

Israel and Palestine are relatively small in terms of land size, but they both offer a surprising number of things to see. Two weeks in Israel and Palestine will allow you to see a lot, but not everything. If you do have more time, here are a few places I recommend adding to your Israel and Palestine itinerary.

• Eilat: Israel’s Red Sea resort city. Great for scuba diving, beaches, and hiking. Check out my guide to Eilat for more information.
• Hebron: This is a divided city and incredibly interesting. If you can, take a dual narrative tour where you experience part of the city with a Jewish guide and the other part with a Palestinian guide.
• Nazareth: Known as the Arab capital of Israel. Plenty of historical religious sites, a beautiful old town, and tons of incredible food. I highly recommend exploring Nazareth with Aziz Banna Culinary Tours.
• Galilee Region: This is further north, a place of religious importance but also a lot of natural beauty.

Final Tips for 2 Weeks in Israel and Palestine

One important thing to note as your 2 weeks in Israel and Palestine comes to an end is that Israeli airport security is intense. You will get questioned. You may require extra screening. Your bags will likely be searched (carryon and checked luggage). This sounds scary but it is normal. Every time I leave the county I get pulled aside and questioned. Twice I’ve been taken away for further questioning, once included doing full body scans (fully clothed). Security in Israel is incredibly strict but I have always been treated kindly and respectfully in these situations. Note that you are most likely to be questioned if you are a solo traveller or have passport stamps from Arabic countries. Since airport security can be a lengthy process, it is highly recommended to give yourself the full 3 hours at the airport before your departing flight.

Israel and Palestine are both very complicated places and people tend to have a lot of opinions when visiting this part of the world. If you do decide to travel here, I strongly suggest keeping an open mind and taking the time to learn and speak to individuals on both sides. No visit to Israel is complete without a visit to Palestine, and vice versa.

I absolutely love this part of the world and I hope that you enjoy your time here as much as I always do. 

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Don’t forget travel insurance!

Please do not travel without travel insurance! I’ve had to use it multiple times throughout my travels and it has saved me thousands of dollars. You can learn more about travel insurance  here . If you are looking for a provider I love and recommend  SafetyWing . For Canadian readers, take a look at  SoNomad.

Book your accommodation

I love and recommend  booking.com  for accommodation. They have a range of hostels, guesthouses, hotels, and resorts. Plus, the platform has a great loyalty program that means the more you book, the more you can save. 

Book your tours

My go-to tour provider that I love to recommend is  GetYourGuide . They have options all over the world and partner with local companies for everything from day trips to food experiences and even airport transfers. 

Get connected

If you want to have data while travelling for online maps or any other needs, an esim is one of the easiest solutions. I’m a big fan of Airalo and have used their sim cards around the world from Brazil to Uzbekistan, Greece to the USA. It’s really easy- you download the app, pick what country you want an esim for, and after you purchase it follow the installation instructions. You can use promo code HANNAH3326 to save $3USD on your next esim purchase. 

Not sure what to pack?

I have destination-specific guides for some countries but you can also check my  travel essentials  and  camera gear  if you are looking for some ideas. 

Looking for a travel buddy?

Check out my group trips!

Fantastic detail! Love your adventurous spirit. I am not quite ready to take flight here on the West Coast of Canada, but I AM itching! Glad I found you.

Thank you! I hope you visit one day!

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My One Week Itinerary in Israel & Palestine

I was recently invited to experience Israel with a focus history: from religious sites to the lowest place on earth, there is so much to see in Israel. However if you’re coming all this way, be sure to keep an open mind and see a little bit of everything, even if it doesn’t entirely interest you (upon first consideration). Throughout this trip I learned so much about religion, history, architecture and even chemicals (in the Dead Sea of course). It was an amazing and insightful week so I’ve shared my itinerary below as I believe I covered most of the highlights in Israel, as well as allowing for some time in the Palestinian territories as this is such a huge factor in the history of this land. Here’s how it went…

Day 1 – Haifa

Arrival at Ben Gurion Airport.

Jump in a car and rive to Haifa – Israel’s third largest city and second largest port, on the slopes of Mount Carmel. Public transport is also a decent option in Israel, with buses running between all the major cities. However for complete freedom to roam around as you please, a car really helps!

Day 2 – Nazareth & The Dead Sea

Day 3 – Ruins of Massada & Jerusalem

From the Dead Sea, its just a short 10 minute drive to visit Massada – the ruins of King Herod’s mountaintop fortress and the last stronghold of the Jewish revolt against the Romans in 73 C.E. You can choose to either hike to the top (around 40 minutes) or take the cable car up and back down. Not only is this a fascinating site in terms of historical relevance, but also has amazing views of the Dead Sea and across into Jordan.

Next, drive for about an hour to Jerusalem, the Capital of Israel and the holy city for the three monotheistic religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam. make your first stop a visit to Yad Vashem – the National Memorial and Museum of the Holocaust. Here you will find a comprehensive insight into the Holocaust and a memorial to the 6 million jews killed throughout this horrific time in history. If you’re looking for a fantastic evening meal, I really enjoyed Caffe Mamilla, a vegetarian restaurant at one of the cities’ luxury hotels. For my time in Jerusalem I stayed at the Dan Boutique Hotel, which has incredible views of the old city and comfortable accommodations at a reasonable price.

Day 4 – Bethlehem & Jerusalem

Today I branched off from my Israel itinerary and chose to visit Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus and an incredibly unique city in the Palestinian territories. No visit to “The Holy Land” would be complete without coming here and the locals were incredibly welcoming and proud to show me around their home. Oh and yes…. I felt entirely safe!

Back in Jerusalem for the later half of the day, I visited the Western Wall (Kotel) – Judaism’s most sacred site, Via Dolorosa (Stations of the Cross), the Christian Quarter with the Church of the Holy Sepulcher , the rebuilt Jewish Quarter and Cardo – ruins of a main street from Roman times and the Arab Market (Shuk) in the Muslim Quarter.

Outside of the old town, I spent the late afternoon/early evening at Machane Yehuda Market which was impressive to see in the lead up to Shabbat.

Day 5 – Old Jaffa, Tel Aviv

This morning we drove to Tel Aviv – Israel’s commercial, cultural and financial centre. First of all we walked around the Tel Aviv promenade and made or way to Old Jaffa Visit, easily my favourite part of the city. There is plenty to see and do here on weekdays, however on the weekend (especially on Shabbat – Saturday), it is very quiet and almost deserted. Be sure to enjoy the nearby port and walk all the way along the beach back to the city centre.

Day 6 – Tel Aviv

Today was the last real day to explore as the following day I would be packing my bags and heading to the airport after a whirlwind 7 day itinerary in Israel. In Tel Aviv, be sure to visit the Carmel open-air market (selling fruits, vegetables and clothing), Sheinkin Street – Tel Aviv’s Yuppie area, Rothschild Boulevard – with its unique Bauhaus architecture and cafes, and Sharona – a reconstructed Templars neighborhood. Tel Aviv is full of great boutiques, eateries and has some great ice cream/frozen yogurt to cool you down in the Middle Eastern heat!

Day 7 – Depart!

What a jam-packed week of adventures in Israel! If you’re looking to take a slower pace and enjoy more of the every day life in Israel, you’ll really need more time. It also would have been nice to spend more time in Bethlehem and make a visit to Jericho, so if you’re looking to visit the Palestinian territories as well, be sure to allow for more time in your itinerary. There’s still much more to see in the Middle East beyond Israel, so be sure to consider combining a trip with Jordan or Lebanon, two travellers’ favourites in the region.

My trip was arranged by Go Israel , however my opinions are all my own.

Brooke Saward founded World of Wanderlust as a place to share inspiration from her travels and to inspire others to see our world. She now divides her time between adventures abroad and adventures in the kitchen, with a particular weakness for French pastries.

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Israel To Palestine / Palestine To Israel: All You Need To Know In 2024

This post is all about Israel To Palestine and Palestine To Israel: distances, modes of transportation and how to get between each area; what parts of the land are called “Palestine” and “Israel”; where Gaza and the West Bank are in relation to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem; who can visit and enter each; and introductory information into the conflict for beginners.

Why listen to me? I lived in Israel for two years, have participated in multiple archaeological excavations, and hold a degree in Archaeology from Tel Aviv University, so I’ve traveled pretty extensively around Israel.

Beyond personally experiencing living in Israel and traveling around the country, I’ve personally heard from and spoken with Jews, Arabs, Muslims, Druze and other people with varying opinions on the conflict.

So, whether you’re looking for strictly geographical info, or if you’re wanting to dive into the region and conflict more, read on!

Map of Israel To Palestine / Palestine To Israel

Learn about the false maps circulating on the internet from Honest Reporting here.

First, Where is Palestine?

Palestine refers to a region in the Middle East situated on the eastern coast of the Mediterranean Sea. It shares borders with Israel to the west, Jordan to the east , and has boundaries with Egypt and Syria.

Today, the term “Palestine” predominantly refers to the West Bank and Gaza Strip.

The West Bank (Judea and Samaria), located to the east of Israel , is home to cities such as Ramallah and Bethlehem.

Meanwhile, the Gaza Strip lies along the Mediterranean coast , separated from the rest of Palestine by Israeli territory.

The political status and control over these regions have been central to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.

The historical understanding of the term “Palestine” is multifaceted.

Ancient Israel was a distinct entity with its own historical and cultural heritage. The land witnessed the rise and fall of various civilizations, including the Israelites. Over the centuries, the region experienced changes in rulership, from ancient Israel to the rule of Arab Caliphates and more.

The term “Palestine” first came into use during the Roman period when the Romans referred to the region as “Syria Palaestina” after suppressing a Jewish revolt. Subsequently, the land witnessed multiple rulerships, including Byzantine, Arab Caliphates, Crusaders, the Ottoman Empire, and the British Mandate (Mandatory Palestine) .

In the modern era, the geopolitical landscape underwent significant changes, leading to the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948. This marked a distinct chapter in the history of the region, with Israel becoming an independent nation separate from the territories known as the West Bank and Gaza Strip.

Understanding the historical complexities provides insight into the layered narratives surrounding the term “Palestine” and its evolving significance over time.

Israel To Palestine / Palestine To Israel: Distances

Here are the land and air distances from major Israeli cities to Palestine (Gaza and the West Bank) and back:

Jerusalem to Gaza / Gaza to Jerusalem

• Land/Car Distance: Approximately 75 kilometers (46.6 miles)
• Air Distance: Approximately 58 kilometers (36 miles)

Tel Aviv to Gaza / Gaza to Tel Aviv

• Land/Car Distance: Approximately 64 kilometers (39.8 miles)
• Air Distance: Approximately 50 kilometers (31 miles)

Jerusalem to West Bank / West Bank to Jerusalem

• Land/Car Distance: Approximately 48.4 kilometers (30.1 miles) via Ramallah-Nablus/Route 60, or approximately 39.3 kilometers (24.4 miles) via Begin Blvd/Route 50
• Air Distance: Approximately 20.52 kilometers (12.75 miles)

Tel Aviv to West Bank / West Bank to Tel Aviv

• Land/Car Distance: Approximately 89.5 kilometers (55.6 miles) via Route 5, 75.8 kilometers (47.1 miles) via Route 465, or 74.6 kilometers (46.4 miles) via Route 1 and Route 465
• Air Distance: Approximately 52 kilometers (32 miles)
• Air Travel Time: If traveling with an airplane with an average speed of 560 miles per hour, it takes approximately 0.06 hours (3.6 minutes) to arrive

Israel To Palestine / Palestine To Israel: Ways of Transportation & How to Get There

There are multiple ways for travelers to reach each destination within Israel/Palestine, from Jerusalem and Tel Aviv to Gaza and the West Bank, and vice-versa. They include:

1. Public Transportation:

• Buses: Public buses operate between major cities in Israel and the West Bank, connecting places like Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Bethlehem.
• Shared Taxis (Sherut): Shared taxis are convenient and relatively inexpensive. They operate on set routes and can be found at designated taxi stations.

2. Airports:

• Ben Gurion Airport (TLV): Located near Tel Aviv, Ben Gurion Airport is the main international airport in Israel.
• Yasser Arafat International Airport (GZA): Located in Gaza, this airport serves the Gaza Strip. However, its operational status may vary, so always check for updates.

3. Renting a Car:

• Renting a car is a great option for those who prefer flexibility in their travel. Rental agencies are available at major airports and cities in Israel , but if you have an Israeli license plate, you will not be safe in Gaza or many areas in the West Bank.
• Regular Taxis: Taxis are available in cities and can be hired for shorter distances within Israel and the West Bank. I recommend using the Gett app for set pricing for traveling within Israel.
• Private Taxi Companies: Various private taxi companies operate in both Israel and the West Bank.

5. Crossing Points:

• Allenby/King Hussein Bridge: This border crossing connects Jordan to the West Bank and serves as a crucial link for travelers between Israel and Jordan. It is the primary gateway for those traveling by land between the West Bank and Jordan .
• Erez Crossing: This crossing point is used for travel between Israel and the Gaza Strip. However, access is restricted, and travelers should check current conditions.

6. Shared Transportation Apps:

• Shared transportation apps, similar to ride-sharing services, are available in cities including Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

7. Walking and Cycling:

• In many areas – especially cities – walking or cycling are common options, as well as electric scooters. Electric bikes and scooters can be rented throughout cities like Tel Aviv.

Palestine and Israel: A Brief History of Names & Borders

The term “Palestine” has historical roots, and the name was derived from the Philistines, who came from Philistia and are mentioned in the Hebrew Bible . The Philistines were known as the “Sea Peoples” or “Peleset” in Hebrew and Egyptian , probably originally from the Aegean or Greece, but possible from other areas of Asia Minor.

The Philistines, an Aegean people, conquered the Mediterranean coastal plain that is now Israel and Gaza in the 12th Century BCE. Before the Israelite conquest, the region was called Retenu by the Egyptians, and later terms like Canaan and Eretz Bnei Yisrael emerged.

The name “Israel” first appeared in the tenth century BCE, referring to the northern Jewish kingdom. During the Persian period, the area was called Coele-Syria.

The term “Palestine” made its first appearance in Greek literature in the 5th Century BCE, used by Herodotus to refer to the coastal strip inhabited by the Philistines.

In the 2nd century CE, after the Roman suppression of the Jewish revolt, Judea was renamed Palaestina in an attempt to diminish Jewish ties to the land.

Under the Ottoman Empire, “Palestine” was a general term for the land south of Syria. Many Ottomans and Arabs referred to it as Southern Syria. After the Muslim conquest, place names were converted to Arabic, with Palestina Prima becoming Filastin.

The name “Palestine” gained currency in Early Modern English and was used by the Crusaders. The Ottoman use of the term was not an official designation but a general description.

The Palestinians of today are not descended from the ancient Philistines, but are mostly Arab in origin .

The modern concept of Palestine as a geopolitical entity gained prominence during the early 20th century. In 1920, the League of Nations granted Britain the mandate to administer the territory, which included the land that is now Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza – and those known as “Palestinian” included Arabs, Jews, Druze and more people.

The establishment of the State of Israel occurred in 1948. Following the end of the British mandate, Israel declared its independence, leading to the Arab-Israeli War. This war marked the beginning of the modern state of Israel, which emerged from the conflict victorious, gaining recognition from several countries.

Note: While Palestinians predominantly identify as Arab, not all Arabs are Palestinian. In Israel, the population is made up of various ethnicities, including Palestinians. In contrast, within the territories referred to as Palestine, the primary identification is Palestinian Arab, with a smaller presence of Palestinian Christians, though their numbers have decreased over time.

Regarding borders, various lines have been considered over the years, with significant events shaping them. The borders discussed include the Armistice Lines of 1949, the Six-Day War in 1967, and subsequent negotiations for peace, all contributing to the ongoing discussions about the region’s territorial boundaries.

In 2005, Israel unilaterally withdrew from the Gaza Strip, dismantling settlements and withdrawing military forces. This move aimed to alter the status quo and has been a significant event in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, influencing the dynamics of the region.

Visiting Israel vs. Palestine: FAQs for Travelers & More

🌴 why do tourists visit palestine.

Tourists visit certain areas in Palestine to explore its rich history, ancient sites, and experience its diverse culture. Bethlehem, known for the birthplace of Jesus, the vibrant markets of Ramallah, and historical/archaeological sites like Herodium and Jericho are popular spots.

🌴 Can you cross into Palestine from Israel?

Travelers can cross into certain parts of Palestine from Israel, but entry conditions vary based on travel advisories. It’s crucial to check specific border restrictions, security conditions, and U.S. government recommendations .

🌴 Is it safe to travel to Palestine from Israel?

The safety of traveling to Palestine from Israel depends on specific regions and current security situations. U.S. citizens are advised to reconsider travel due to terrorism and civil unrest. Make sure to follow the U.S. Embassy’s alerts, maintain situational awareness, and exercise caution.

🌴 Can I enter Palestine from Tel Aviv?

While entry from Tel Aviv may be possible, you should always be cautious and stay informed about the security situation. Checkpoints and border areas may have increased security measures. Monitoring the U.S. Embassy’s website for the latest information is recommended .

🌴 Can Americans go to Palestine?

Americans can visit certain parts of Palestine, but caution is urged due to the terrorism and civil unrest advisory. It’s essential to follow U.S. travel advisories , maintain awareness of surroundings, and heed local authorities’ guidance.

🌴 Can Americans visit Gaza Strip?

Travel to the Gaza Strip is not recommended due to the ongoing armed conflict and terrorism. U.S. citizens are advised not to travel to Gaza. The security environment is extremely dangerous, with potential closures of crossings and limited access to information.

🌴 Is Palestine safe for tourists?

Tourist safety varies, and U.S. citizens are urged to reconsider travel to the West Bank. The situation is volatile, and attacks can occur without warning. Travelers should stay informed, avoid demonstrations, and follow emergency response officials’ instructions.

🌴 How safe is Jerusalem right now?

Jerusalem is generally safe and tours are continuing as planned in regular tourist areas, but it’s important to stay updated on the current situation. Going with a tour guide is encouraged.

🌴 Can Jews enter Gaza?

Access to Gaza is restricted, and entry is challenging due to the security environment. For Jews who are not Israeli or have other Passports, they technically can enter, but it’s not safe. Israelis cannot enter Gaza safely. U.S. citizens, including Jews, should be aware of the risks, follow travel advisories, and consider alternative travel plans.

🌴 Can Jews visit Bethlehem?

Jews who are not Israeli or have non-Israeli passports can visit Bethlehem, but it’s important to stay informed about the security situation. U.S. citizens are advised to reconsider travel to the West Bank, including tourist destinations like Bethlehem.

🌴 Can Israeli Jews enter Palestine?

Israeli citizens face restrictions on traveling to Palestinian territories. They are prohibited from using the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge crossing and entering Gaza. Additionally, Israeli citizens are generally not allowed to travel to parts of the West Bank under Palestinian Authority control, including Bethlehem and Jericho.

The reason behind this prohibition is primarily for security concerns, as violence is likely. While Israeli Arabs can travel more freely into these territories, Israeli Jews are subject to restrictions due to safety considerations. Signs at entrance points explicitly state that Israelis, not just Jews, are not allowed to cross.

The lack of bypass roads further complicates this situation. Previous decisions, such as the cancellation of bypass roads by the former transport minister Merav Michaeli, contribute to the challenges faced by Israeli citizens who wish to navigate around sensitive areas.

This situation raises questions about the discrepancy in travel freedoms between Israeli Jews and Israeli Arabs within Palestinian territories. While Israeli Arabs can move more freely, Israeli Jews may face risks, as demonstrated by recent incidents.

Regarding the accusation of apartheid, this situation highlights the disparities in access based on citizenship, demonstrating complexities that go beyond simplified narratives. It emphasizes the security concerns that shape travel restrictions, while also raising issues of fairness and equal access for all citizens.

In contrast to these restrictions, Israel allows tourists from every single nation, even those that do not officially recognize Israel, to enter the country. While tourists from all nationalities are generally welcome, some may need to obtain a visa in advance, depending on their nationality.

🌴 Is drinking illegal in Palestine?

Drinking alcohol is subject to restrictions in Palestine, and it’s important to be aware of local laws. Palestinian authorities may enforce penalties for certain offenses, including the prohibition of alcoholic beverages.

In Gaza, under the control of Hamas, wine and liquor are illegal due to the adherence to Islamic ideology and the conservative societal norms in the region.

However, in the West Bank drinking is not so rare – for example, there’s a microbrewery called Taybeh you can visit , and they even host an Oktoberfest (it last took place in September 2023).

Additionally, under Palestinian law, homosexual acts are prohibited, and authorities may enforce strict penalties for offenses such as treason, aiding an enemy, and deliberate killing.

Islamic law applies in Gaza, which further influences legal regulations. Travelers should be mindful of and respect local laws and customs to ensure a safe and respectful visit.

🌴 Do Israeli Jews drink alcohol?

Yes, Israeli Jews can consume alcohol, which is legal in Israel, and many choose to drink either regularly or on occasion. It is legal to drink in Israel.

On religious holidays like Purim, it’s common tradition for many Israelis, including Jews, to engage in festive celebrations that involve drinking alcohol. Purim, in particular , is known for this.

Israel also has a great wine culture, and Israeli wines are well-regarded internationally. There are also wineries throughout Israel, especially in the North. You can visit during the Jerusalem wine festival to experience more!

In Tel Aviv, being gay is legal, and they have the biggest Pride Parade. While gay marriage isn’t yet legal, adoption for gay couples was just made legal in Israel.

Who started the war between Israel and Palestine 2023?

Hamas started the war in 2023 on October 7, when they launched the biggest terror attack since 1948. They massacred a music festival and kibbutzim, and took hundreds of hostages. Here’s more data on the attack .

Here’s a video with more information from an Israeli travel guide and creator I recommend following:

More FAQs About Israel & Palestine

👉 who owned the land first, israel or palestine.

Short answer: Israel from BC times. Long answer:

• Etymology and Early References:

The word “Palestine” does not appear in the Quran, Old or New Testament, but it does appear in the Hebrew concordance of the King James Bible due to translation.

Believed to be derived from the Egyptian and Hebrew word “peleshet,” it roughly translates to “rolling” or “migratory,” describing the Philistines who settled along the Mediterranean coast in the 12th century BCE.

• Historical Names of the Region:

Before the Israelite conquest, the region was called Retenu by the Egyptians and later referred to as Canaan in the 15th century BCE.

During the Persian period, it was known as Coele-Syria, and the name “Judaea” appeared in the 2nd century BCE.

The term “Palestine” first appeared in Greek literature in the 5th century BCE.

• Roman Influence and Name Changes:

After the Roman conquest and the suppression of the Jewish revolts, the Romans renamed Judea to “Palaestina” in an attempt to diminish Jewish ties to the land.

The Arabic word “Filastin” is derived from the Latin name.

• Ottoman Period:

Under the Ottoman Empire (1517-1917), “Palestine” was a general term for the land south of Syria but not an official designation.

The region was commonly referred to as Southern Syria, and the inhabitants identified by their religious, clan, or city affiliations.

• Modern Usage and National Identity:

The name “Palestine” gained currency in Early Modern English and was used by the Crusaders.

With the British conquest during World War I, the term gained official status in the mandate held by the British Empire.

The area was called “Palestine” until Israel’s reconstitution in 1948.

Palestinian nationalism began forming in the early 20th century, influenced by European ideologies.

After the 1948 War, the term “Palestinians” was not initially used for the Arab population.

Jordan annexed parts of the West Bank and East Jerusalem, but the term “occupied territory” was not applied.

The UN began using the term “West Bank” after Israel captured the territories in 1967 .

• Formation of Palestinian Identity:

Palestinian nationalism evolved in response to Zionism and British colonialism.

The idea of a distinctive Arab national entity, “Palestine,” gained prominence after Israel’s victory in 1948 .

• Modern Usage and Conflicts:

The usage of “Palestine” and “Palestinian” has been intertwined with the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.

The term “West Bank” was adopted to describe territories west of the Jordan River.

👉 Who is right, Israel or Palestine?

In the case of the Hamas massacre on October 7, 2023, Israel has the right to defend itself and prevent future attacks. Israel does all it can to alert Palestinian civilians and allow them to leave, but Hamas uses them as human shields. In addition, it’s difficult to believe the numbers coming from the “Palestinian Health Ministry” as this is Hamas, a recognized terrorist organization, and the numbers are usually reported too quickly, as well as including terrorists. The Israeli government has issues, and Israelis have been protesting it for some time. Basically, neither side is completely innocent, but only one side has a bonafide terrorist organization that is connected with Iran, raises its children with hateful ideology, etc (Palestine does this). There’s so much more to this that I can’t fit into this blog post, but you can read more here , and I encourage you to read and study more about these issues.

👉 What is Israel doing to Palestine?

Israel is defending itself and working to root out the terrorist organization Hamas in order to prevent future massacres like Oct 7, which Hamas leaders have stated they want to do “again and again” . Israel is also working to get the hostages back. Israel’s initiative includes multiple warnings to civilians in Palestine, though the outcomes of war are tragic for both sides.

For IDF news updates to see what Israel is doing in current time, here’s the Jerusalem Post’s updates .

👉 When did Israel go to Palestine?

The historical timeline regarding Israel and Palestine is as follows:

• The Israelite tribes entered “Palestine” (which was not yet called Palestine) before the end of the Late Bronze Age, around the early 12th century BCE.
• The British Mandate of Palestine came after the Ottoman Empire fell. Before that, there was no State of Palestine, only a province.
• Between 1921 and 1948, there was a country called the British Mandate of Palestine. It was assigned to the UK after WWI by the League of Nations.
• In 1947, a vote of the UN General Assembly was in favor of partition.
• On May 14, 1948, the State of Israel was established, marking the end of British rule in Palestine. This event triggered the first Arab-Israeli War, involving neighboring Arab countries, which ultimately led to the displacement of hundreds of thousands of Palestinian Arabs.
• The following war ended with Israel declaring independence, and the rest of the country was annexed by Jordan and Egypt until 1967.
• Israel occupied the Gaza Strip and the West Bank in 1967 during the Six-Day War.
• Israel pulled out of Gaza in 2005.
• The name Palestine was adopted by the PLO militants during this complex historical period.

👉 What is Palestine famous for?

Palestine, comprising Gaza and the West Bank, is known for its historical sites, religious significance, and historical events. These include:

• Gaza City: Home to historical landmarks such as the Great Mosque and the Church of Saint Porphyrius.
• Gaza Port: An ancient port city with archaeological significance.
• Great Mosque of Gaza: A prominent religious site.
• Church of Saint Porphyrius: Holds significance for Christians in the region.
• Siege of Gaza: Throughout history, Gaza has been a site of various conflicts and sieges.
• Agriculture: Known for its agricultural products, including olive oil and citrus fruits.
• Jerusalem: Houses religious sites like the Western Wall, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the Dome of the Rock.
• Bethlehem: Birthplace of Jesus, featuring the Church of the Nativity.
• Hebron: Home to the Tomb of the Patriarchs.
• Jericho: One of the oldest inhabited cities, with archaeological significance.
• Religious Significance: The West Bank holds immense importance for Judaism, Christianity, and Islam, with several holy sites for each.
• Israeli-Palestinian Conflict: The West Bank has been a focal point of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, with historical events such as the Oslo Accords shaping the region’s modern history.
• Taybeh Brewery: Located in the West Bank, Taybeh Brewery is known for producing Palestinian beer.
• Palestinian Handicrafts: The West Bank is known for its traditional handicrafts, including embroidery and ceramics.

👉 What part of Israel is Palestine?

The term “Palestine” is commonly used to refer to the West Bank and Gaza Strip. These areas are recognized as territories with exclusively Palestinian populations, distinct from the state of Israel, which includes Jews, Christians, Palestinians and other Arab people, Druze, Bedouins and more.

👉 What is the issue between Israel and Palestine?

The Israeli-Palestinian conflict revolves around competing national narratives, territorial disputes, and issues related to refugees, security, and sovereignty. It is a multifaceted geopolitical conflict with deep historical roots.

👉 Was Palestine a country before Israel?

Short answer – no. Here’s more explanation: Israel has existed since ancient times, much longer than the idea, terminology or national identity of Palestine existed. There was never any country of Palestine as it exists today; it was originally a British territory, including Arabs, Jews, Christians, Druze and others.

The 1948 Israeli war of independence – from British colonial rule – prompted fighting between Jews and Arabs. Israel won, and has existed since. The Palestinian national identity today only includes Arabs. There’s much more to the story than this that I encourage you to study beyond this blog post.

👉 Is kissing in public allowed in Israel?

Public displays of affection, including kissing, are legal and generally acceptable in Israel, especially in urban areas. Israeli society is diverse, and cultural norms may vary, but public affection is generally tolerated.

What To See In Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv offers many attractions , from gorgeous beaches and nightlife to the arts and culinary scene. Don’t miss the UNESCO-listed White City with its Bauhaus architecture, the markets (including Carmel Market), the historical port of Jaffa (Yafo), and more!

What To See In Jerusalem

Jerusalem has a wealth of significant religious sites and more to discover, including the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Dome of the Rock, and the Mount of Olives. The Old City of Jerusalem , recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, is arguably the most significant place to visit in Israel.

👉 For the best times of year to visit Jerusalem and more things to see, read this post.

Travel Planning Tips for Israel

👉 Wondering the best time to visit Jerusalem? This guide has information on all seasons and even more things to do!

👉 For flights, WayAway is a flight aggregator that helps you find the cheapest flights. Use the code MUKI-TRAVELS for 10% off WayAway Plus.

Public Transportation In Israel

🚄 High-Speed Train: A high-speed train operates between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, with travel times of just 32-34 minutes. The train stops at multiple locations in Tel Aviv and one station in Jerusalem. You may need to take a taxi from your hotel to the closest train station.

Note: The train doesn’t run during Shabbat, which is Fri. evening through Sat. evening. Normal hours are Sun-Thurs. 6am-9pm. Here’s the Israel Railway’s website , and the Railways app is available on the App Store or Google Play .

🚎 Buses: Buses run directly between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. From Tel Aviv, you can catch a bus at the Arlozorov terminal (not to be confused with the Central Bus Station). The bus’s final stop is Jerusalem’s Central Bus Station . From Jerusalem, the buses depart from the Central Bus Station and arrive at the Arlozorov terminal. The bus journey takes approximately 45 minutes to an hour.

📸 Group Tours: Joining a group tour is a convenient option. You can start the tour in Tel Aviv and end it in Jerusalem or vice versa. This allows you to bring your luggage along while exploring the sights. Keep reading this post for group tour options!

🚖 Other Options: Private transfers offer comfort and convenience, while shared taxis known as “ sheruts ” provide an alternative mode of transportation between the cities (they’re a bit difficult to pin down, however, so not my top option).

🚎 For Israel public transport, use the Moovit app . Some places are only searchable in Hebrew, so Google Translate is your friend! For diving, use Waze . For taxis, use Gett . 🚎 For all over Israel, get a Rav Kav , which is the public transit card for the bus (and trains, but you have to buy the ticket at the train stations for that). You can fill it up at stations and stores around the city.

If you don’t get one and fill it up outside of the bus, you’ll have to buy one for one ride on the bus, but it’s more expensive. So be sure to pick one up at the airport.

For accessibility info, check out Israel’s accessibility website here .

👉 Find more tips on things like travel insurance, what to pack, and more on my travel resources page .

What to Consider for Israel Travel

🌍 Shabbat and Holidays

Shabbat is a sacred day of rest transforms the atmosphere in Israel (as it does on most religious holidays), with limited public transportation and closures of businesses, shops, and restaurants. Make sure to plan activities and travel with the Shabbat and other religious holiday observances in mind.

🕍 Navigating Religious Sites & Customs

For the spiritual side of Israel, visiting religious sites like the Western Wall, Dome of the Rock, Church of the Holy Sepulchre and more in Jerusalem is a must. Many of these sites require modest dress, respect for worshipers, and adherence to specific rules or restrictions.

As for wandering around Tel Aviv, Haifa and even Jerusalem apart from the main religious sites and mosques, you can dress however you want!

In contrast, you’ll need to keep to modest dress in the West Bank and Gaza.

🌞 Packing for Israel’s Varied Climate

Israel has a Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters. Pack wisely, with lightweight and breathable attire for the summer months , and don’t forget essentials like sunscreen and a hat to shield yourself from the strong sun. In winter, especially in elevated areas, layer up with warmer clothing .

All In All: Israel to Palestine: Distances, Locations & More

I hope this post helped you learn about the distances and locations of Israel and Palestine, plus answers to frequently asked questions and history to begin understanding the region and its conflicts. Keep reading about the conflict here .

Planning Your Israel Trip? Use my favorite resources:

Accommodation: Booking.com Mid-Priced Hotel: Bezalel Hotel Rent a Car: Discover Cars Travel Insurance: Allianz Flights: WayAway Tour: All Inclusive Walking Tour Old City Jerusalem Airport Transfers: KiwiTaxi

Check out these posts for more info on Israel & Middle East travel

👉 Israel & Palestine, and the Conflict: A Beginner’s Guide (History, Maps & Resources) 👉 Is Israel Safe For Travel In 2024? Important Advice Amidst War 👉 Is Egypt Safe For Travel In 2024? Important Advice Amidst War 👉 Is Jordan Safe For Travel In 2024? Important Advice Amidst War 👉 8 Best Tours From Tel Aviv To Jerusalem To Check Out 👉 Solo Travel In Israel: Expert Tips, Itinerary + More 👉 Four Quarters In Jerusalem Old City: 29 Places To Visit (With Map + History) 👉 Is Jerusalem Worth Visiting? 26 Things To Do To Make Your Trip Worthwhile (with pros & cons) 👉 Winter in Jerusalem: Weather, Things To Do + Travel Tips 👉 31+ Best Things To Do In Tel Aviv (With Map) 👉 The best time to visit Tel Aviv 👉 Where To Stay In Tel Aviv: Best Places for Every Budget (Neighborhoods, Hotels + More) 👉 Renting A Car In Tel Aviv: Everything You Need To Know 👉 The 20 best day trips from Tel Aviv 👉 Is Tel Aviv Worth Visiting? 18 Ways To Make Your Trip Worthwhile (+ Pros & Cons) 👉 Jerusalem to Egypt / Egypt to Jerusalem: All You Need To Know 👉 Rome to Jerusalem / Jerusalem to Rome: All You Need To Know 👉 Is Haifa Worth Visiting? 38 Ways To Make Your Trip Worthwhile (+ Pros & Cons) 👉 Check out this post for where to stay in Haifa on any budget for each area! 👉 Israel Archaeology: Volunteer On An Excavation 👉 Israel Archaeology List: learn about famous sites 👉 The 17 Best Israel Souvenirs 👉 Top 25 Biblical Sites In Israel 👉 Captivating Scenes: A Photo Journey Through Historic Jerusalem 👉 10+ Unique and Captivating Photos of Tel Aviv, Israel 👉 The 41 Best Photography Spots In Jerusalem with Map + Ideas 👉 What To Pack For Israel In Winter (Dec-Feb) 👉 What To Pack For Israel In Spring (March-May) 👉 What To Pack For Israel In Summer (June-Sept) 👉 What To Pack For Israel In Fall (Oct-Nov)

👉 Also check out this post on Cairo (or this one ) for more Middle East travel! 👉 For more International Travel guides, check out this page .

Get my guide on the Israel & Palestine conflict

Hi! I'm Sarah Simon, the founder of Mukikapup's Travels! I created this blog as a place to share travel and photography tips that I've learned and additional research using my experience solo traveling and living abroad, plus getting various degrees, including a Masters in Archaeology from Tel Aviv University in Israel. Mukikapup is a character my grandfather created to tell us stories about - read more on my "about" page. I'm so glad you're here!

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How to Plan the Perfect Israel Trip (1-3 Week Israel Itinerary)

By: Author Taylor Lorenz

Posted on Last updated: 10/25/2023

Israel is often seen as dangerous, unknown and is usually not the place that people put on the top of their bucket list. I’m here to shatter those beliefs and to let you know that Israel is actually completely unique yet somehow familiar at the same time.

I believe that an Israel trip is a must for any seasoned traveller.

Picture yourself in the desert, overlooking the Dead Sea, laying on the beach along the Mediterranean coast, taste testing olive oil in the north and standing atop mountains from where you can see Syria.

Israel is packed full of religious monuments, sites and holy places that are important to almost every religion. But it is also a country filled with history, adventure, unique nature and wildlife and epic parties. There is truly something in Israel for everyone.

This Israel travel guide will help you plan the perfect trip to Israel for 1-3 weeks and includes the best places to visit in Israel and Palestine, where to stay in Israel, what to do in Israel and Israel travel tips. By the end of this Israel guide you’ll have your Israel vacation planned.

Some tours, accommodation and transportation mentioned in this post were sponsored by Abraham Tours and Abraham Hostels . As always, all thoughts and opinions are my own. 

Table of Contents

Israel Fast Facts

Currency:  Israeli shekel (NIS) Languages:  Hebrew and Arabic (English is widely spoken in main tourist areas) Population:  8.7 million Religion:  Jewish, Muslim and Christian, with some less common faith’s practiced as well

Israel Itinerary

Here’s the tough part, deciding where to go! Pick out which spots above interest you the most and then build around that. Below I recommend some itineraries to help you get started.

I do not include Eilat in these itineraries as many people choose to visit Eilat on it’s own as a place to stay for a week at a resort or to spend time diving. You could easily visit for a couple or few days but plan that it will take you at least half a day of travel to get to Eilat.

Israel Itineraries by Length

1 week in israel (central israel, palestine).

• Day trip to Dead Sea and Masada
• Day trip to West Bank (Palestine)

10 Days in Israel (Central and Northern Israel, Palestine)

• Nazareth or Haifa as base for trips to Golan Heights and Sea of Galilee

2 Weeks in Israel (Central and Northern Israel, Palestine)

• Nazareth of Haifa as base to see Golan Heights, Sea of Galilee, Acre
• Multiple day trip(s) or base yourself in the West Bank (Palestine)

3 Weeks in Israel (Central, Northern and South Israel (or Jordan), Palestine)

• Haifa as base to se Acre
• Nazareth as base to see Golan Heights and Sea of Galilee
• Multiple day trip(s) or base yourself in West Bank (Palestine)
• Spend more leisurely time in places or opt to spend 2-3 days in Jordan or head down to Eilat

Daily Breakdown of My Israel Trip Itinerary

I recommend the minimum amount of time for each destination and longer so you can experience the best things to do in Israel at a leisurely pace or for those with limited time.

Tel Aviv: 2-4 Days

If you like nightlife then use Tel Aviv as your base, otherwise, I would recommend spending a few days in Tel Aviv to explore Tel Aviv and then moving onto Jerusalem as Tel Aviv is further than many of the Israel tours that leave from both Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

DAY ONE: Spend your first day relaxing after your travels. Head to the beach and check out the city’s most famous market. The Camel Market and the Nahalat Binyamin Arts and Crafts Market are two of the most popular.

In the evening go on a pub crawl or try doing a self-guided food tour to experience a diverse range of foods in Tel Aviv.

DAY TWO: In the morning take a Tel Aviv walking or bike tour to get to know the city. In the afternoon I recommend roaming around the city some more to see what street art you can find (there are tons). Street art tours are also available and give a great background behind the art and help you find many that are hidden.

DAY THREE: Explore Old Jaffa, which was once it’s own city, by doing the free Old Jaffa walking tour . For the afternoon hit up some more markets, museums or opt to do another food tour  (I did a vegan one even though I’m not vegan and loved it).

DAY FOUR: Get cultured, do a half-day trip to visit a Kibbutz . A Kibbutz is a community living together where all income is split equally to all people. It’s a very interesting concept that many people enjoy (though I didn’t personally love the tour).

Another option which is unique is The Other Tel Aviv Tour which takes you to a lesser known neighbourhood and touches on subjects and issues in Israel that often get hidden by the conflict. It’s a very educational experience that also has food!

READ MORE: 13 Cool Things to do in Tel Aviv and 7 Best Day Trips from Tel Aviv

Jerusalem: 3-5 Days

I recommend this long in Jerusalem because there is really a lot to do in the surrounding areas as well as in the city itself.

DAY ONE: Familiarize yourself with the city, join the Holy City tour which gives you an in-depth explanation of many of the city’s most famous sites, the free walking tour or a full-day city tour if you’re limited on time.

DAY TWO: Take a day trip to the Dead Sea! There are day trips that include visiting the Dead Sea, Masada and Ein Gedi so you get to see all three spots in one day. I personally did the sunrise tour which was ideal because you hiked up to Masada in the morning without the sun. A non-sunrise option to all three places is also available.

If you prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace or just want to spend half of the day hanging out at the Dead Sea then choose this chill out option .

In the evening head to the Mahane Yehuda Market to grab dinner (it’s seriously one of the best food markets I’ve ever been to and I went every night I was in Jerusalem).

DAY THREE: Take the day to explore some Jerusalem city sites on your own. Check out Dome of the Rock (a must) if you haven’t already on a tour, go shopping in the Old City market, stop by the Western Wall and go to the Tower of David which also has a light show at night.

Other top spots to visit include Yad Vashem, a Jewish memorial site from the Holocaust, the Israel Museum and the Mount of Olives . Then do a pub crawl !

DAY FOUR: Visit the West Bank (Palestine). One of the best Israel tours I did was the Hebron Dual Narrative Tour through Abraham Tours. I can not recommend it enough. The guides were beyond amazing and it is the tour that I learned the most about Israel and Palestine. If you want to understand these places and the people there is no better tour to take.

DAY FIVE: Take another day to explore a different spot in the West Bank (Palestine). For those limited on time the best option is to take the Best of the West Bank tour . Another option is to explore Bethlehem more in-depth or take a multi-day tour to the West Bank .

READ MORE: 20 Awesome Things to do in Jerusalem and 10 Best Jerusalem Tours and Day Trips

Nazareth: 2-3 Days

I personally used Nazareth as my base for exploring the north of Israel through Abraham Tours. I opted for the Northern Israel 4 Day Package from Tel Aviv which was a great value. I visited Nazareth, Golan Heights, the Sea of Galilee, Haifa, Acre and Rosh Hanikra.

I choose to do the tour because getting around the north can be difficult without a car.

Nazareth itself you really only need a day to visit sites such as Basilica of the Annuication, Mary’s Well and walk part of the Jesus Trail for a pretty sunset view. Your second and third day can be spent visiting Golan Heights and the Sea of Galilee and then Haifa, Acre and Rosh Hanikra .

Haifa: 1-2 Days

Haifa is another place that you can base yourself to explore the north of Israel but I only recommend doing this if you have a car.

DAY ONE: Spend the day in Haifa, see the beautiful Baha’i Gardens (one of the most beautiful Israel attractions), roam around the German Colony, check out some of the museums or chill at the beach.

DAY TWO: Take a day trip to Acre and/or Rosh Hanikra.

Dead Sea, Masada and Ein Gedi

I mentioned to do these from Jerusalem by tour or if you have you own car then it’s ideal!

Here are your tour options:

• Masada Sunrise, Ein Gedi and Dead Sea Tour
• Masada, Ein Gedi and Dead Sea Tour
• Dead Sea Chill Out Day Trip

Golan Heights and Sea of Galilee: 1-2 Days

You can easily spend a day driving around Golan Heights and checking out the must-see sites for yourself or you can opt to do a day trip if you don’t have a car. What you can see are nature reserves such as Banias Nature Reserve (waterfalls!), see the view (including Syria) from Mount Bental, stop by the Golan Heights Winery or go skiing if it’s winter at Mount Hermon.

If you have a car and want to explore at a more leisurely pace then opt to do the Sea of Galilee on a second day to visit the beaches around the Sea of Galilee, stop by the Town of Jesus (Capernaum), Mount of Beautiudes and the Tiberias-Hamat Hot Springs. This day tour from Nazareth combines stops in Golan Heights and the Sea of Galilee.

If you are driving Tiberias is also a good spot to base yourself without driving back to Nazareth.

Acre: Half-Day – 1 Day

I recommend visiting Acre as a part of a tour from Nazareth or as a half-day or full-day trip from Haifa. The old town is not very big and all things can be done in a day.

Eilat: 2+ Days

How long you stay in Eilat for really depends on why you’re visiting. A minimum of two days is required so that you have one day to explore the mountains by jeep and a second day to see what’s underwater or to spend time relaxing at the beach.

Tack on a third day if you want to visit Petra or plan to scuba dive.

Palestine (Hebron, Bethlehem, Jericho and Ramallah): 2+ Days

Once again, this really depends on what you want to do while you’re in Palestine. Some people prefer exploring each city on their own, others want to do tours so that they can gain as much information as possible.

I based myself in Jerusalem and visited on day trips.

I think Hebron is a must-visit which is most common to do by tour. The Hebron Dual Narrative Tour is a must (it’s the best tour I did on this trip).

Here are some tour options:

• Hebron Dual Narrative Tour
• Best of the West Bank (Bethlehem, Jericho, Ramallah and more)
• Bethlehem Sightseeing Tour from Jeusalem
• West Bank 3 Day Package
• Northern West Bank Full-Day Tour (Nablus, Jenin refugee camp and more)

A Brief Word on Israel and Palestine (Must-Read)

The Israeli-Palestinian conflict is complicated and can take a bit of time to wrap your head around. It is still ongoing and something I believe that you should be aware of before you take a trip to Israel or Palestine.

While this guide is labeled as an Israel trip, parts of it include Palestine, which is referred to as West Bank from the Israeli point of view.

Israel and Palestine are both safe to travel to so long as you avoid areas of heavy conflict such as the Gaza Strip where violence can occur. Guns are seen regularly by those who are in the army who are required to have a gun on them at all times, even when out of uniform.

This is quite a detailed guide on the ongoing conflict but it is broken down into questions so you can choose to read parts that will still allow you to get a good idea on what’s going on.

I personally read My Promised Land: The Triumph and Tragedy of Israel to gain a better perspective of the country from before Israel was created to why and ideas on the future of the country. It certainly helped me understand more and the complexity of this small country.

Do not be afraid to venture into Palestine, the barbed wire and concrete walls make it look harsh but the people are so welcoming. More people welcomed me into their country by saying “Welcome to Palestine!” than I have experienced anywhere else in the world.

Lastly, I refer to Palestine as Palestine because 137 out of 193 United Nations member plus two non-members recognize Palestine as a state. However, in this guide I sometimes refer to it as the West Bank as many tours from Israel call it the West Bank, so as to help avoid confusion.

I had a guide tell my group on our way to Hebron (Palestine) that we would go into the conflict confused with many questions and come back out even more confused and with twice as many questions. I can promise you that that is true.

Best Time to Visit Israel

When it comes to Israel weather there really is no bad time to visit Israel as the weather is never extreme cold, rainy or snowy. It all really boils down to what kind of vacation you have to have when in Israel.

The weather in Israel varies significantly from the north where there are mountains to the south where there is the desert. The country experiences four seasons.

In summer the temperatures are hot, reaching above 30°C (86°F) and oftentimes into the 40°C’s (104°F) in the desert and the Galilee (in the north).

Winters in Israel are still mild but areas such as Jerusalem and the north which have high elevations can get snow, though it is rare. Temperatures are around 10-20°C (50-68°C) during the day and dropping to 5°C (41°C) at night.

Weather and budget-wise the best time to visit Israel is during spring (March-May) or fall (September-November) when temperatures are in the 20°C’s (68-84°C), there are fewer visitors and prices are more affordable than summer.

Israel Travel Budget

I’m sorry to be the bearer of bad news…Israel is not cheap. However, travelling Israel on a budget can be done but expect to keep an eye on your wallet as things will add up quickly.

For backpackers aim to budget $75-$100USD (275-370 NIS) per day. This will give you enough to stay in hostels 80-130 NIS per night ($21-$35USD), cook your own food or eat out at cheap street food joints, 10-20 NIS ($2.70-$5.40USD), get around by bus, cheap daily activities and to take an occasional tour.

For a mid-range budget plan to have $175-$300USD (650-1115 NIS) per day. This gives you plenty of wiggle room to stay in private rooms in hostels, cheap apartments or mid-range (3-star) hotels which are 350-550 NIS ($95-$150USD) per night.

You will be able to eat more meals out at sit down restaurants, 80-250 NIS ($21-$68USD) but will still need to eat some budget meals. This will also allow for taxis, pricer daily activities and more day tours.

A luxury budget in Israel should be $450USD+ (1670 NIS) which will allow you to stay in 5-star hotels, get private cars or tours and to eat out wherever you like.

How to Get to Israel

Flying to Israel is by far the most common way to get into the country. Flights from North America are often expensive but budget airlines fly to Israel from Europe often. I recommend getting a sale flight to Europe and then hopping over to Israel.

From abroad you will fly into Israel’s largest and main airport, Ben Gurion Airport, which is located about half-way between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

It’s also possible to enter Israel from Jordan. There are shuttles/buses that make border crossings or you can opt to take a taxi, you’ll need a taxi on both sides of the border.

Visa Requirements for Israel

Always a question on travellers minds heading to Israel, luckily for a lot of people getting into Israel is not as difficult as many think.

Majority of the countries in Europe along with Canada, USA and Australia (plus many more, check here ) are given tourist visas that are free and valid for 90 days.

In Israel you will be given a card upon entry and exit that you must keep with your passport while you are in Israel as if you are asked to show your passport (you may need to show it if you plan on going into Palestine and accommodation will ask you to show the card) then the card is the only proof you have of legal entry into the country.

This card is used because some Arab countries do not allow those who have visited Israel to travel in their countries so a stamp is avoided by using this card.

Be prepared to be asked many questions going in and especially out of the country. This is normal but not always the case.

How to Get Around Israel

You have options when it comes to travelling around Israel. If you’re in a group and plan to see most of the country then a rental car is your best option as it will be the fastest.

Buses are the most popular way to get around Israel and the cheapest too. The company to look for buses is Egged . Buses don’t go to all tourist destinations though so sometimes you may have to walk far from a stop so check routes before jumping on.

Trains are definitely less popular because of the lack of trains. There is a train that runs from the airport to major cities such as Tel Aviv and Haifa (you have to go through Tel Aviv to get to Jerusalem).

Personally, I took shuttle buses through Abraham Hostels that delivered me from door to door to each hostel in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv and Nazareth.

Israel Travel Insurance

Where to Go in Israel

This Israel map gives you an idea of the best places to visit in Israel. I have also included places to visit in Palestine (marked in red). These places are often visited as day trips from Israel, typically Jerusalem, or you may visit them on your own.

North Israel

Haifa: Haifa is the third largest city in Israel and is located on the northern Mediterranean coast. The city is most well known for the expertly designed Baha’i Gardens (Baha’i is a small religion that is fascinating) and the German Colony, a street lined with restaurants at the base of the gardens. Haifa is a good place to base yourself to explore the north.

Nazareth: Nazareth is a second option for you to base yourself when travelling around the north. This small city is the largest Arab city in Israel but has many religious sites and is where the Jesus trail begins. Nazareth is a work in progress though, it’s developing itself as a cultural and culinary destination but is still rough on the edges.

Golan Heights: Golan Heights is an area in northern Israel that borders Syria, once a place where conflict and tension ran high but is now a spot where it is safe to travel. In Golan Heights you can find everything from nature reserves to wineries, mountaintop views, old war bunkers and you can even go skiing on Mount Hermon in the winter.

Sea of Galilee: The Sea of Galilee (known as Yam Kinneret in Hebrew) is well-known for its biblical associations. At the Sea of Galilee and in the area around Jesus is said to have performed many of his miracles. The sea itself is Israel’s largest freshwater lake which the Jordan River runs through that has beaches, camping and many walking and cycling trails around.

Acre (Akko): Acre is more like an old town in Europe than it is unlike any other city in Israel. Located on the northwest Mediterranean coast, Acre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with stone walls and alleys that lead you to the Mediterranean shores. The town is small with markets and tons of history. Even Napolean tried to take over this town but failed.

Central Israel

Tel Aviv: If you’re a city person then Tel Aviv is where you want to be. It’s the second largest city in Israel and most likely where you will start your trip. Tel Aviv is hip, packed with culture, has beaches that rival some of the best beach destinations in the world, art, architecture and is home to the country’s party scene. Foodies will love Tel Aviv too.

Jerusalem: Jerusalem, the Holy City, is in the Judean Mountains in east Israel and is where history is still an open book. New ancient discoveries are made constantly and pilgrims venture to the old part of the city where they can find some of the holiest sites linked to Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Beyond the thick stone walls of the old city the modern expands outwards with trendy cafe lining streets, educating museums and much more.

Dead Sea: Stop by the Dead Sea, one of the top Israel tourist attractions, to float in the saltiest of water at the lowest point on Earth (431m below sea level). As you float you will see Jordan across the sea and to get to the Dead Sea you’ll drive through the picturesque Judean Desert.

Masada: Masada is an ancient fortress with Roman ruins that sits atop a plateau in the Judean Desert that overlooks the Dead Sea. It’s here that a bloody siege took place but now it’s a place for dramatic views.

Ein Gedi: Ein Gedi is a nature reserve in the Judean Desert that is an oasis in the middle of the harsh, hot climate. It’s here that plants are found that are usually in Africa, thousands of miles away, freshwater waterfalls plummet to the ground and unique wildlife make their appearances.

South Israel

Eilat: Eilat is the most resorty area in all of Israel. In the far south of Israel, bordering Jordan, Eilat sits along the Red Sea where beach lovers flock to enjoy some rays. Snorkelling and diving here are extremely popular as the waters are filled with an abundance of marine life and coral reefs that are not bleached.

Hebron: Just 30km from Jerusalem, Hebron is where travellers go to see a very real side of the Israeli-Palestinian tension. Hebron is believed to be the final resting place of Abraham and the city is very important to all three major religions of Islam, Judaism and Christianity. Barbed wire lines the walls of some streets, metal gates stop Palestinian’s from passing through to the Israeli side of the city and soldiers stand guard at all times in this Israeli controlled city.

Bethlehem: Bethlehem is an extremely important city for those of Christian faith. It’s believed that Jesus was born here in the Church of Nativity. Other than religious sites, Bethlehem is also famous for being the home of some of Banksy’s most well-known pieces of art that line the wall that separates Bethlehem from Jerusalem.

Jericho: Jericho is a place of history, where you can see monasteries carved into mountain faces and ancient cities being uncovered from dirt. Jericho holds the name of the ‘world’s oldest continuously inhabited city’ where evidence has proven that settlements here date back over 10,000 years.

Ramallah: Ramallah is a great city to visit to experience Palestine as just that, Palestine. The city is the political and economic heart of Palestine with street art decorating many walls but it’s more than just politics. It’s a bustling place to see everyday life.

How Long to Spend in Israel?

This really depends on what you want to see. I would recommend spending a minimum of one week in Israel but typically people spend 10 days to two weeks and this just covers the major highlights.

I personally spent three weeks in Israel and feel like I got a good look and feel of the country but could have easily have spent more time there and still not do the same thing twice.

Enjoy your Israel holidays!

Must Read Posts About Israel

• All My Israel Trip Planning Resources

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links which I earn a small commission from and are at no additional cost to you. See my disclosure policy for details. Thank you for supporting my small business!

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Palestine’s status at the UN explained

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What will it take for Palestine to become a full UN Member State? As the Security Council takes up the matter while the devastating war in Gaza enters its seventh month, we looked at Palestine’s current status and what it takes to become a UN Member State.

Palestine’s current status

Right now, Palestine is a “Permanent Observer State” at the UN, enjoying the status that allows it to participate in all of the Organization’s proceedings, except for voting on draft resolutions and decisions in its main organs and bodies, from the Security Council to the General Assembly and its six main committees.

However, some other participation is off-limits to Permanent Observers. This was made clear by a General Assembly resolution , which temporarily, for the year 2019 during which Palestine served as chair of the Group of 77 developing countries and China (G77), accorded to Palestine additional rights: to submit proposals and amendments and introduce them, to exercise a right of reply and to raise procedural motions, including points of order and requests to put proposals to the vote. These rights temporarily accorded to Palestine then expired as of 2020.

On 2 April 2024, Palestine sent the UN Secretary-General a letter requesting renewed consideration be given to the application of Palestine for admission to membership in the UN, a request originally submitted in 2011. Upon receipt of the request, the UN chief forwarded it to the Security Council, which on 8 April took up the matter in an open meeting.

The process is a continuation of what happened in September 2011, when the Palestinian President sent a  letter with the application request for UN membership to the UN chief, who promptly  sent the application to the Security Council and the General Assembly. In accordance with the Council’s provisional rules of procedure, the Security Council referred the matter to its Committee on Admission of New Members, where members deliberated but were not unanimous on approving the request.

How UN Member States are born

Agreement between the UN General Assembly and the Security Council is needed to  admit any new Member States .

Any application for UN membership comes to the UN Secretary-General and then is forwarded to the Security Council and the General Assembly.

The 15-member organ decides whether or not to recommend the admission to the 193-member General Assembly after its Committee on Admission of New Members deliberates on the matter.

The process is outlined in the UN Charter , whereby UN membership “is open to all other peace-loving States which accept the obligations contained in the present Charter” and “are able and willing to carry out these obligations”.

The Council can vote on the proposal and must have at least nine members in favour and none of its permanent members – China, France, Russia, United Kingdom, United States – using their veto power.

Committee of Admission of New Members

As per rule 59 of its provisional rules of procedure, the Security Council referred the matter to its  Committee of the Admission of New Members . The Committee met twice, on 8 and 11 April 2024.

In 2011, Committee members considered Palestine’s request at meetings held over two months, but could not unanimously advise the Council to approve the application, with some members in favour, others noting that an abstention was envisaged in the event of a vote and several suggesting other options, including that as an intermediate step, “the General Assembly should adopt a resolution by which Palestine would be made an Observer State,” according to the Committee report.

Learn more about the Committee’s history of decisions  here .

World body holds a vote

After receiving the Council’s positive recommendation, the General Assembly plays its role.

In cases of approvals – like with  Israel in 1948 and dozens of others, including  South Sudan , in 2011, the newest UN Member State – the Assembly is tasked with drafting a resolution.

Shortly after receiving a Council recommendation, the General Assembly holds a vote on the matter, with all 193 Member States joining in the process.

Granting full membership status

In  admitting more than 100 Member States since the founding of the UN in 1945, the General Assembly needs a two thirds majority in a vote to admit a new member.

Once a resolution is adopted, the new member is officially admitted to the UN.

Membership entails participating in UN meetings, paying annual dues and voting on all issues that come before the Organisation. The new member’s flag is then added to the row of members that stretch across the front of UN Headquarters in New York and other main UN offices around the world.

Non-member Permanent Observer status

In the case of Palestine, one year later in 2012, the General Assembly  decided to recognise it as a “non-member Permanent Observer State” .

While the only other current non-member Observer State is the Holy See, representing the Vatican, the practice of according the status dates from 1946, when the Secretary-General accepted the designation of the Swiss Government as a Permanent Observer to the United Nations. Observers were subsequently put forward by certain States that later became UN Member States, including Austria, Finland, Italy and Japan.

As a Permanent Observer State, Palestine’s flag does fly outside the UN Secretariat building in New York, although it is slightly separated from the UN Member State flags and is not part of the alphabetic line-up.

How Palestine became a non-member Observer State

On 29 November 2012, the General Assembly adopted a  resolution granting to Palestine the status of non-member observer State in the United Nations, with a  vote of 138 for, nine against (Canada, Czech Republic, Federated States of Micronesia, Israel, Marshall Islands, Nauru, Panama, Palau, United States), with 41 abstentions.

Until 2012, Palestine had observer status in the UN General Assembly, but not as a State.

The vote came on the same day that the UN observed the annual  International Day of Solidarity with the Palestinian People . Established in 1977, the Day marks the date in 1947 when the Assembly adopted a  resolution partitioning then-mandated Palestine into two States, one Jewish and one Arab.

Upon the adoption in 2012, Mahmoud Abbas, President of the Palestinian Authority, said its aim in coming before the world body to change its status was to try to “breathe new life” into the peace process.

Finding Justice in Palestine

The question of Israel and Palestine must be reframed and recalibrated.

The first step toward coexistence for Israelis and Palestinians—and toward the resolution of the conflict between them—must be the abandonment of the zero-sum mentality that has suffused thinking about the conflict for far too long. And it’s not just the Israelis and Palestinians who have fallen victim to such thinking. In Western and Arab capitals, elites have chosen to view the issue through ethnic, religious, colonialist, and geopolitical frameworks that are simplistic, woefully misguided, and incompatible with their oft-stated commitment to universal values.

There is nothing unpatriotic or disloyal about understanding another people’s history and its foundational narratives. This is simply sound strategy, undergirded by normal human empathy. Each dead-end eruption of violence has put paid to the notion of a military solution;  reconciliation is the only path forward. The parties should not be asked to reach a consensus on the historical record of the past 140 years in the region. But they can, and should, learn to understand each other well enough to build a shared future around a promise of mutual recognition, equal rights, security, and prosperity.

The simple fact is that two peoples, in roughly equal numbers and with distinct national identities, reside in the territory that lies between the Mediterranean Sea and the Jordan River. Israel exercises various degrees of hegemony over that territory, which includes Jerusalem, the West Bank, and Gaza. The people who reside there, however, have been sorted by Israel into four primary categories. There are Israeli Jews (including West Bank settlers), who enjoy exclusive first-class citizenship in the Israeli state, as most recently enshrined in Israel’s 2018 nation-state law . There are Palestinian citizens of Israel, who have political rights but suffer discrimination within the state. There are Palestinians in the West Bank, who live as noncitizens under foreign-military occupation, or who contend with Israeli-settler encroachment and violence . And there are Palestinians in Gaza, who live as noncitizens under a military blockade and are currently suffering through Israel’s brutal military campaign.

Arash Azizi: The one-state delusion

This four-layered arrangement is inherently unjust, unstable, and unsustainable. In the postcolonial world, ethnic domination is simply not going to fly. Sooner or later, a formula for coexistence undergirded by legal, political, and social equality must be found.

The latest explosion in the tortured history of this land began on October 7, with Hamas’s brutal attack in southern Israel that killed more than 1,100 Israelis. Since then, 33,000 Gazans have been killed, according to Hamas’s Health Ministry. Some 1.9 million Gazans have been displaced, and most of the Strip has been destroyed. The onset of disease, famine, and chaos will only exacerbate the human devastation in the months to come. The emotional and political impact—in the region and globally—is likely to be generational. Once the difficult triage work of bringing the violence to a halt, ensuring the return of all hostages, and restoring some level of stability to Gaza is complete, the world community must prioritize a genuine political resolution to this most vexing and intractable of conflicts.

Promises of a “total victory”—whether Israeli fantasies of enforcing military submission or expulsion, or Palestinian visions of an international restoration of pre–Balfour Declaration Palestine—undermine progress toward peace. Such chimerical ideologies would damn the populations of the region to many more years of violence and cruelty. The purveyors of these atavistic yearnings, no matter how sincerely they feel them, must be marginalized. People of goodwill, who genuinely believe in a peaceful future and who can prioritize their reverence for universal values over tribalism, will be the ones who bring about peace. For far too long, ideological extremism, political cowardice, cynical exploitation, and war profiteering have been ceded an effective veto power over finding a pragmatic resolution to the conflict, while the blood of the Palestinian and Israeli peoples continues to flow.

Read: My message of peace to Israelis

The question of Israel and Palestine needs to be reframed and recalibrated. Relitigating years of violence and atrocities may make for good television or social-media spats, but it does nothing to promote peace. There is no need for either side to submit to the other’s narrative or to admit their own singular culpability.

Rather, the paramount focus must be on a shared future built on equality, the rule of law, justice, compromise, and the rejection of ethnic or sectarian supremacy. The elevation of these principles from sloganeering to practice will be the basis of any just and lasting resolution. Those who embrace them need to engage in the effort to bring about peace—and those who do not can watch their influence ebb as history passes them by.

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Middle East crisis — explained

The conflict between Israel and Palestinians — and other groups in the Middle East — goes back decades. These stories provide context for current developments and the history that led up to them.

How Iran and Israel became archenemies

Peter Kenyon

Emergency and security personnel extinguish a fire at the site of strikes that hit a building annexed to the Iranian embassy in Syria's capital Damascus on April 1. Iran blames Israel for the attack. Louai Beshara/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

Emergency and security personnel extinguish a fire at the site of strikes that hit a building annexed to the Iranian embassy in Syria's capital Damascus on April 1. Iran blames Israel for the attack.

ISTANBUL — Israel is on high alert for a possible attack from Iran, following an airstrike that hit the Iranian consulate in Syria two weeks ago and killed several senior Iranian military officers. Iran blames Israel for the attack, and has vowed to retaliate.

Iran's regional flashpoints are increasing. Here's what to know

Many countries have issued warnings to their citizens not to visit the region, as tensions flare and fears grow that an Iranian attack may be imminent — and the war in Gaza may spread.

Iranian leaders have been among the sharpest critics of Israel's military operation in the Gaza Strip. Tehran has made no secret of its praise for those who attack Israelis, including the Hamas-led attack that Israel says killed 1,200 people on Oct. 7.

U.S. drone strike kills a leader of an Iran-backed militia in Iraq

Israel compiled a video showing Hamas gunmen killing civilians, including babies, and burning corpses. Human Rights Watch verified some of the videos of the attack, and called on the International Criminal Court to investigate the attacks as war crimes.

People attend the funeral procession for seven Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps members killed in a strike in Syria, which Iran blamed on Israel, in Tehran, April 5. Hossein Beris/Middle East Images/AFP via Getty hide caption

People attend the funeral procession for seven Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps members killed in a strike in Syria, which Iran blamed on Israel, in Tehran, April 5.

Iranian officials accuse Israel of a deadly attack on Iran's consulate in Syria

Iran, however, wasted no time in hailing the Hamas attack as a "victory." Hours after news of the attack broke on Oct. 7, Iran's Foreign Ministry spokesman Nasser Kanani told Iran's ISNA news agency that "What took place today is in line with the continuation of victories of the anti-Zionist resistance in different fields, including Syria, Lebanon and occupied lands."

Iran blames Israel for the April 1 airstrike on Iran's consulate in Damascus that killed seven members of Iran's Revolutionary Guard Corps, including two IRGC generals . Israel has neither confirmed nor denied being behind the attack.

If Israel was responsible, it would be the latest in a long line of attacks against Iranian targets.

1979 was a pivotal year

While Iran was ruled by the Pahlavi dynasty for more than a half-century, Iranian-Israeli bilateral relations were far from hostile. Iran was one of the first Muslim countries to recognize the new state of Israel .

The killing of U.S. troops in Jordan raises specter of a wider war in the Middle East

Palestinians saw that recognition as a tacit international acceptance of what they call the "Nakba," or catastrophe — the forced dispossession and displacement of more than 700,000 Palestinians when Israel was created in 1948.

For its part, Israel was quick to establish ties with non-Arab states, including military and security cooperation with Iran.

Iran's 1979 Islamic revolution, though, sent relations between the two nations into a tailspin. Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi was ousted, and the new supreme leader of the Islamic Republic of Iran, Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, pursued a policy of standing up to "arrogant" world powers. During his regime, the United States became known in Iran as the "Great Satan," and Israel as the "Little Satan."

Even so, limited cooperation between Israel and Iran continued into the 1980s. But later a hostile rivalry emerged as Iran built up and funded proxy militias and other groups in Syria, Iraq, Lebanon and Yemen. A shadow war between Iran and Israel grew over the years.

Iran's nuclear program is a main target

Iran's nuclear program — which it has always insisted is entirely peaceful — has been a primary focus of Israeli attacks. Tehran believes Israel and the U.S. introduced the Stuxnet computer virus in the early 2000s to target the centrifuges enriching uranium for Iran's nuclear program

A series of sabotage attacks continued into the 2020s, as Israel sought to damage Iranian nuclear facilities. Nuclear scientists were also targeted. President Donald Trump's decision to withdraw from the Iran nuclear agreement in 2018 was seen as a blow to Tehran and a victory for Israel.

Middle East

Iranian commandos seize an israeli-linked container ship near strait of hormuz.

Iran continues to insist that its program is 100% peaceful, although certain incidents, such as an unexplained discovery of uranium particles at sites Iran never disclosed to the United Nations nuclear watchdog agency, trouble critics who doubt Iran's motives.

With Iran firmly under the control of Islamist hard-liners, and conservatives leading Israel, there seems little likelihood of a return to cordial Iranian-Israeli relations anytime soon.

War by proxy

Iran has long backed armed groups around the region that target Israel as well as the U.S. military. The main one is Hezbollah in Lebanon, formed in the 1980s to fight the Israeli occupation in southern Lebanon. Hezbollah has been firing rockets into northern Israel since the Gaza war began in October.

Iran also supports Hamas, the armed Palestinian group that led the Oct. 7 attack on southern Israel that triggered the current war, which Gaza health authorities say has killed more than 33,000 Palestinians, mostly women and children, over the past six months.

Biden says Iran could soon attack Israel, and warns, 'Don't'

Iran also has provided support to Houthi rebels in Yemen, who have fired ballistic missiles at the Israeli resort town Eilat on the Red Sea, and attacked shipping vessels — attacks which the Houthi rebels say are in support of Hamas.

Iran supports the Syrian regime of President Bashar Assad, and Israel says Tehran uses Syrian territory to ship missiles and other weapons to Hezbollah in Lebanon. Israel has carried out numerous airstrikes in Syria to halt that flow of weapons, and said the Iranian general killed in the consulate strike was a key figure in that logistical chain.

Now, however, American and Israeli officials are warning of the risk of a direct attack by Iran against Israel. Iran's supreme leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, has said the April 1 attack on the consulate building in Damascus, for which Iran blames Israel, was tantamount to an attack on Iranian territory. He has threatened that Israel "must be punished and shall be."

Israel has said that an attack from Iranian soil would be met with a direct response against Iran. That could trigger a major regional war.

U.S. officials say that they have sent messages to allies with closer ties to Tehran to urge Iran to exercise restraint. The U.S. officials noted that the U.S. has also relayed the same message directly to Iranian officials.

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Israel ‘making decision to act’ after Iran attack, says Cameron on Jerusalem visit

UK foreign secretary is probably first non-Israeli politician to admit military reprisal is inevitable but urges Israel not to escalate

David Cameron has said it is clear Israel is “making a decision to act” in response to last weekend’s Iranian mass drone and ballistic missile attack, as Benjamin Netanyahu brushed off calls for restraint and said his country would make its own decisions about how to defend itself.

Lord Cameron, the UK foreign secretary, speaking on a visit to Jerusalem, said he hoped the Israeli response would be carried out in a way that minimised escalation.

“It’s right to have made our views clear about what should happen next, but it’s clear the Israelis are making a decision to act,” he said after meeting the Israeli president, Isaac Herzog. “We hope they do so in a way that does as little to escalate this as possible,” he added, becoming the first non-Israeli politician to openly admit that some kind of military reprisal is inevitable.

Cameron later met Netanyahu, the Israeli prime minister, who made it clear Israel would reach its own decisions on its security.

Speaking at the beginning of his cabinet meeting on Wednesday, Netanyahu said: “I thank our friends for their support for the defence of Israel … They also have all kinds of suggestions and advice, I appreciate it, but I want to make it clear: we will make our own decisions, and the state of Israel will do everything necessary to protect itself.”

Cameron met Netanyahu and Herzog alongside the German foreign minister, Annalena Baerbock. She was on her eighth visit to Israel since the Hamas attack on 7 October, in which 1,200 people were killed and 253 taken hostage, which prompted the Israeli offensive in Gaza that has so far killed an estimated 34,000 Palestinians.

Britain, in conjunction with the US and its European allies, has been pressing Israel not to mount a full-scale reprisal for Iran’s attack. Cameron has urged Israel to be governed by its head as well as its heart and to regard the destruction of most of the Iranian missiles and drones directed at Israel over the weekend as a win.

He argued it was more important to focus on freeing the remaining hostages from Hamas, getting aid supplies to the Gaza Strip and achieving a ceasefire in the conflict. He said he wanted to press for this in talks with the Palestinian Authority. Rishi Sunak delivered a similar message by phone to Netanyahu on Tuesday.

A No 10 spokesperson denied that Cameron’s admission that Netanyahu would take some form of action represented a snub for those lobbying the Israeli leader to show restraint – including Sunak.

Asked whether the government was disappointed that Israel seemed intent on a military response, the spokesperson said: “We’ve always said that Israel has got a right to defend itself. But clearly, we want to see all sides exercise restraint. So obviously it’s a decision for Israel but if Israel decided to act and respond, we urge them to do so in a way that avoids a significant escalation.”

In a statement issued by Herzog’s office after the meeting with the two foreign ministers, Herzog said the leadership in Tehran was endangering stability in the entire region with its actions. “The entire world must act decisively and defiantly against the threat by the Iranian regime,” the statement said.

Cameron is also due to hold talks with Mohammad Mustafa, the prime minister of the Palestinian Authority.

One of the side-effects of the Iranian assault has been to reduce some of the pressure on Israel to do more to improve humanitarian aid flows into Gaza. The UK remains deeply concerned that if the media and diplomatic pressure is eased, Israel may not fulfil the pledges it made a fortnight ago to Joe Biden to allow more aid in through more crossings.

Iran has daily threatened a severe and major escalation if Israel does launch an attack, insisting it will provide no advance warning, as it did over the weekend. But officials admit Iran’s response will be calibrated according to Israel’s own attack, with one factor being whether it is directed on Iranian soil or instead seeks to attack Iranian assets in Syria and elsewhere.

At the annual military parade in Tehran, the Iranian president, Ebrahim Raisi, told Israel that even the “smallest invasion” would lead to a “massive and harsh” reaction. Iran’s attack last weekend had only limited targets, Raisi said, adding that a larger attack could hit Israel much harder.

The latest round of tit-for-tat violence broke out on 1 April when Israel killed seven Iranian commanders, including two Revolutionary Guards (IRGC) generals, in Iran’s consulate in Damascus. Some Israeli sources have said the target was legitimate since the Iranians were using the building to mount attacks on Israel, thus losing the diplomatic immunity provided by the Vienna convention.

The US state department said on Tuesday it was still carrying out an investigation into whether the consulate was a diplomatic building or not. The US said it was relying on intelligence capabilities and allies on the ground to ascertain the true purpose of the building.

Cameron said he wanted to see coordinated sanctions against Iran, and that would be the key purpose of a G7 foreign ministers’ meeting starting formally on Thursday in Capri, Italy. He argued Iran must be “given a clear, unequivocal message” over its support for Hamas, its Lebanon-based ally Hezbollah and Yemen’s Houthi rebels. “I hope that will happen at the meeting,” he said.

Iran is already under probably the heaviest sanctions in the world. The most effective way to further punish it would be to hit the Chinese banks and energy firms involved in importing Iranian oil, the single largest revenue earner for Tehran, but the Biden administration is reluctant to become embroiled in a sanctions war with China and does not want to see petrol prices rise in the midst of a presidential election.

Britain is also pressing Israel to realise that the nascent anti-Iranian sentiment in the Gulf states provides an opportunity for Israel to forge stronger links with Arab nations, so isolating Iran.

Tensions between Jordan and Iran have emerged over Jordan’s decision to knock out Iranian drones heading for Israel. It has also been reported that Egypt was still negotiating with Iran three hours before the attack was launched, saying it was seeking understandings from Israel over a ceasefire and an Israeli commitment not to attack Rafah.

Iranian diplomats insisted they wanted a UN security council statement condemning the Israeli attack on Iran’s consulate, but Washington rejected the proposal.

It was also reported in the Iranian media that it was the IRGC, not the Iranian foreign ministry, that summoned the conduit for Iranian-US relations, the Swiss ambassador in Tehran, at 3am on Sunday to convey the message that Tehran was prepared to go further if the US intervened.

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Israel launched an attack on Iranian soil on Friday, sources said, in the latest tit-for-tat exchange between the two arch foes, whose decades of shadow war has broken out into the open and threatened to drag the region deeper into conflict.

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Miscalculation Led to Escalation in Clash Between Israel and Iran

Israeli officials say they didn’t see a strike on a high-level Iranian target in Syria as a provocation, and did not give Washington a heads-up about it until right before it happened.

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By Ronen Bergman ,  Farnaz Fassihi ,  Eric Schmitt ,  Adam Entous and Richard Pérez-Peña

Ronen Bergman reported from Tel Aviv, Farnaz Fassihi and Richard Pérez-Peña from New York, and Eric Schmitt and Adam Entous from Washington.

Follow live updates on Israeli military strikes in Iran.

Israel was mere moments away from an airstrike on April 1 that killed several senior Iranian commanders at Iran’s embassy complex in Syria when it told the United States what was about to happen.

Israel’s closest ally had just been caught off guard.

Aides quickly alerted Jake Sullivan, President Biden’s national security adviser; Jon Finer, the deputy national security adviser; Brett McGurk, Mr. Biden’s Middle East coordinator; and others, who saw that the strike could have serious consequences, a U.S. official said. Publicly, U.S. officials voiced support for Israel, but privately, they expressed anger that it would take such aggressive action against Iran without consulting Washington.

The Israelis had badly miscalculated, thinking that Iran would not react strongly, according to multiple American officials who were involved in high-level discussions after the attack, a view shared by a senior Israeli official. On Saturday, Iran launched a retaliatory barrage of more than 300 drones and missiles at Israel, an unexpectedly large-scale response, if one that did minimal damage.

The events made clear that the unwritten rules of engagement in the long-simmering conflict between Israel and Iran have changed drastically in recent months, making it harder than ever for each side to gauge the other’s intentions and reactions.

Since the Oct. 7 attack on Israel by Hamas, an Iranian ally, and Israel’s subsequent bombardment of the Gaza Strip, there has been escalation after escalation and miscalculation after miscalculation, raising fears of a retribution cycle that could potentially become an all-out war.

Even after it became clear that Iran would retaliate, U.S. and Israeli officials initially thought the scale of the response would be fairly limited, before scrambling to revise their assessment again and again. Now the focus is on what Israel will do next — and how Iran might respond.

“We are in a situation where basically everybody can claim victory,” said Ali Vaez, the Iran director of the International Crisis Group. “Iran can say that it took revenge, Israel can say it defeated the Iranian attack and the United States can say it successfully deterred Iran and defended Israel.”

But Mr. Vaez said: “If we get into another round of tit for tat, it can easily spiral out of control, not just for Iran and Israel, but for the rest of the region and the entire world.”

This account of these tense weeks is gleaned from interviews with U.S. officials, as well as officials from Israel, Iran and other Middle Eastern states. All of them spoke on the condition of anonymity to discuss sensitive matters they were not authorized to reveal publicly.

Planning for the Israeli strike in Syria started two months earlier, two Israeli officials said. The target was Mohammad Reza Zahedi, the commander for Syria and Lebanon of Iran’s elite Quds Force, a branch of the Islamic Revolutionary Guards Corps.

About a week beforehand, on March 22, the Israeli war cabinet approved the operation, according to internal Israeli defense records that summarized preparations for the strike and were viewed by The New York Times. The Israeli military did not comment on the internal assessment.

Those records also outlined the range of responses from Iran that the Israeli government expected, among them small-scale attacks by proxies and a small-scale attack from Iran. None of the assessments predicted the ferocity of the Iranian response that actually occurred.

From the day of the strike, Iran vowed retaliation , both publicly and through diplomatic channels. But it also sent messages privately that it did not want outright war with Israel — and even less so with the United States — and it waited 12 days to attack.

American officials found themselves in an odd and uncomfortable position: They had been kept in the dark about an important action by a close ally, Israel, even as Iran, a longtime adversary, telegraphed its intentions well in advance. The United States and its allies have spent weeks engaged in intensive diplomacy, trying to tamp down first the expected Iranian counterattack, and now the temptation for Israel to reply in kind.

When it came this past Saturday night, Iran’s show of force was significant, but Israel, the United States and other allies intercepted nearly all of the missiles and drones. The few that reached their targets had little effect. Iranian officials say the attack was designed to inflict limited damage.

U.S. officials have been telling Israeli leaders to see their successful defense as a victory, suggesting that little or no further reply is needed. But despite international calls for de-escalation , Israeli officials argue that Iran’s attack requires yet another response, which Iran says it would answer with still more force, making the situation more volatile.

“The question now is how does Israel respond in a way to prevent Iran from rewriting the rules of the game without provoking a new cycle of state-on-state violence,” said Dana Stroul, a former top Middle East policy official at the Pentagon who is now at the Washington Institute for Near East Policy.

In fact, Israeli leaders came close to ordering widespread strikes in Iran on the night Iran attacked, according to Israeli officials.

Israeli officials say the Oct. 7 attack by Hamas, which caught them by surprise, changed the ground rules of regional conflict. To its enemies, it was Israel’s bombing and invasion of Gaza that did that, and it led to increased rocket fire by Hezbollah, Iran’s proxy in Lebanon. That in turn drew heavy fire from Israel.

The Israeli airstrike in Damascus killed seven Iranian officers, three of them generals, including Mr. Zahedi. In the past, Israel had repeatedly killed Iranian fighters, commanders and nuclear scientists, but no single strike had wiped out so much of Iran’s military leadership.

By March, the relationship between the Biden administration and Israel had grown increasingly fraught, as Washington criticized the Israeli assault in Gaza as needlessly deadly and destructive — “over the top,” as President Biden put it.

Then came the Israeli strike in Damascus. Not only did the Israelis wait until the last minute to give word of it to the United States, but when they did so, it was a relatively low-level notification, U.S. officials said. Nor was there any indication how sensitive the target would be.

The Israelis later acknowledged that they had badly misjudged the consequences of the strike, U.S. officials and an Israeli official said.

Defense Secretary Lloyd J. Austin III complained directly to Israel’s defense minister, Yoav Gallant, in a call on April 3, U.S. officials said, confirming an earlier report by The Washington Post. Mr. Austin said that the attack put U.S. forces in the region at risk, and that the lack of warning had left no time to ratchet up their defenses. Mr. Gallant had no immediate comment.

The vulnerability of thousands of U.S. troops deployed in the Middle East became all too clear earlier in the Israel-Hamas war, when Iranian-backed militias fired on them repeatedly, killing three and injuring more than 100. Those attacks stopped in early February only after retaliation by the United States and ominous warnings to Iran.

The night of the Damascus strike, Iran’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs summoned the Swiss ambassador in Tehran to convey Iran’s outrage to Washington, along with the message that it viewed the United States, Israel’s primary backer, as accountable for the attack.

Using Oman, Turkey and Switzerland as intermediaries — Iran and the United States do not have formal diplomatic relations — the United States made clear to Iran that it had not been involved and that it did not want war.

The Iranian government went on an unusually open and broad diplomatic campaign, spreading the word that it saw the attack as a violation of its sovereignty that required retaliation.

The government publicized that it was exchanging messages with the United States and that Foreign Minister Hossein Amir Abdollahian was speaking with representatives of countries in the region, high-level European officials and leaders of the United Nations.

On April 7, Mr. Abdollahian met in Muscat, Oman, with his Omani counterpart, Badr Albusaidi. Oman is one of the main intermediaries between Tehran and the West. The Iranian message at that meeting, according to a diplomat briefed on it, was that Iran had to strike back but that it would keep its attack contained, and that it was not seeking a regional war.

Before and after that meeting there was a whirlwind of phone calls between Gen. Charles Q. Brown Jr., chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff; Secretary of State Antony J. Blinken; Mr. Biden; Mr. Austin; Mr. Sullivan; their counterparts in Israel, China, India and Iraq; NATO allies; and others, officials said.

The Biden administration did not think it could dissuade Iran from attacking at all, a U.S. official said, but hoped to limit the scale .

Mr. Blinken talked to senior Israeli cabinet members, assuring them that the United States would help defend against an Iranian attack, and urging them not to mount a rash counterstrike without weighing all considerations.

American and Israeli intelligence agencies worked closely together, with help from Jordan and other Middle Eastern countries, to learn what they could about Iran’s intentions.

Intermediaries and allies told the United States and Israel that Iran planned to hit military sites and not civilian targets, U.S. and Israeli officials said.

Iran’s message was that it would temper its attack so as not to elicit an Israeli counterstrike, Israeli and Iranian officials said. But in reality, the Israelis said, Iran was expanding its attack plans, and wanted at least some of its weapons to penetrate Israel’s defenses.

Initially, Israel’s military and intelligence services expected Iran to launch no more than 10 surface-to-surface missiles at Israel, an attack they code-named “Late Foliage.” By the middle of last week, they realized Iran had something much bigger in mind, and the Israelis increased their estimate to 60 to 70 surface-to-surface missiles. Even that turned out to be too low.

On Wednesday, Mr. Biden publicly reinforced what he and his aides had repeatedly said: Despite friction with Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, the American commitment to defending Israel from attacks was “ ironclad .”

Still, the Biden administration also redoubled its diplomatic efforts to head off a confrontation, and Iranian officials said their government fielded calls last week urging restraint from countries across Asia, Europe and Africa — an effort they described as frantic.

Turkey, relaying an Iranian message, told the United States that Iran’s attack would be proportionate to the Damascus strike, according to a Turkish diplomatic source. Mr. Abdollahian, Iran’s foreign minister, told state television the day after the Iranian barrage that Iran had given its neighbors 72 hours’ notice of the attack, though the specifics of that warning are unclear.

Israeli officials say that, thanks in part to international cooperation, they had a good idea in advance of Iran’s targets and weapons. The Israel Defense Forces evacuated families from some air bases and moved aircraft out of harm’s way.

The U.S. military coordinated aerial defense efforts with Israeli, British and French forces as well as — crucially — those of Jordan, which lies between Iran and Israel. The United States and Israel had been working quietly for years with friendly Arab countries to develop a regional air defense system with shared detection and alerts. The effort picked up steam after several drone attacks against Saudi Arabian oil facilities in 2019.

News of the first wave of the Iranian attack on Saturday, consisting of 185 relatively slow drones, spread worldwide hours before any of them reached Israel. The three dozen cruise missiles Iran launched later were much faster, but the biggest challenge was Iran’s ballistic missiles, which traveled several times as fast as the speed of sound. Iran fired 110 of them, posing the first major test of Israel’s anti-ballistic missile defense system.

American, British, French, Israeli and Jordanian warplanes and air defense systems shot down most of the drones and missiles before they reached Israel. Only 75 entered Israeli airspace, where most of those were shot down, too, Israeli officials said. The attack did only minor damage to one air base, and only one serious injury was reported.

Throughout the strike, Iran’s Foreign Ministry and the Revolutionary Guards kept open a hotline to Oman’s government, to pass messages back and forth with the United States, Iranian officials said.

At 3 a.m., the Swiss ambassador in Tehran was summoned again — not to the Foreign Ministry, the usual practice, but to a Revolutionary Guards base, according to an Iranian and a U.S. official. She was asked to convey a message that the United States should stay out of the fight, and that if Israel retaliated, Iran would strike again, harder and without warning.

Iran cast its barrage against Israel as a measured, justified act that should not lead to escalation.

“We carried out a limited operation, at the same level and proportion to the evil actions of the Zionist regime,” Maj. Gen. Hossein Salami, commander in chief of the Revolutionary Guards, said on state television. “These operations could have been a lot larger.”

Mr. Biden told Mr. Netanyahu in a call that Israel’s successful defense had demonstrated its technical superiority, according to John F. Kirby, a spokesman for the National Security Council.

“The president urged the prime minister to think about what that success says all by itself to the rest of the region,” Mr. Kirby said on Monday.

But in interviews, Israeli officials described the attack in far more dire terms, in part because of its sheer scale. They emphasized that this was a sovereign nation, from its own soil, attacking Israel directly, and not through proxies abroad.

Israel’s war cabinet had ordered the military to draw up plans for a wide-ranging set of strikes against targets in Iran in the event of a large-scale Iranian attack. After news came of the Iranian launches on Saturday, some leaders argued behind closed doors that Israel should retaliate immediately.

Waiting, they said, would allow international pressure for Israeli restraint to build, and could let Iran think that it had set new ground rules for the conflict, which Israel considered unacceptable. Among the leaders making that argument, according to three Israeli officials, were Benny Gantz and Gadi Eisenkot, former military chiefs of staff who were in the Parliamentary opposition to Mr. Netanyahu’s right-wing government and are usually considered less hawkish, but who joined the war cabinet last fall.

The Israeli Air Force was ready to carry out the order, but it never came. On Saturday night, after Mr. Netanyahu spoke with Mr. Biden, and because the damage was limited, the war cabinet postponed a decision, and more postponements followed.

The world is still waiting to see what Israel will do.

Reporting was contributed by Sheera Frenkel , Isabel Kershner , Michael Crowley , Vivian Nereim and Safak Timur .

Ronen Bergman is a staff writer for The New York Times Magazine, based in Tel Aviv. His latest book is “Rise and Kill First: The Secret History of Israel’s Targeted Assassinations,” published by Random House. More about Ronen Bergman

Farnaz Fassihi is the United Nations bureau chief for The Times, leading coverage of the organization, and also covers Iran and the shadow war between Iran and Israel. She is based in New York. More about Farnaz Fassihi

Eric Schmitt is a national security correspondent for The Times, focusing on U.S. military affairs and counterterrorism issues overseas, topics he has reported on for more than three decades. More about Eric Schmitt

Adam Entous is a Washington-based investigative correspondent and a two-time Pulitzer Prize winner. Before joining the Washington bureau of The Times, he covered intelligence, national security and foreign policy for The New Yorker magazine, The Washington Post and The Wall Street Journal. More about Adam Entous

Richard Pérez-Peña is an editor for international news at The Times, based in New York. More about Richard Pérez-Peña

An uneasy alliance of Arab states helped defend Israel from Iran. Their resolve may soon be tested.

BEIRUT — Since Iran’s unprecedented retaliatory attack against Israel was thwarted over the weekend with the help of the U.S. and its Middle Eastern allies, the Biden administration has crowed that the “coalition” averted a regional war.

An Israeli response, however, would test the durability of an informal coalition of awkward bedfellows, including Saudi Arabia , Jordan and the United Arab Emirates , whose recent cooperation against Iran has the potential to be damaging on the home front, analysts say.  

“Those Arab countries are in a very critical situation,” said Oraib Al Rantawi, director of the Al Quds Center for Political Studies, a think tank based in Jordan’s capital, Amman. “There is no easy position to take for all of them, especially Jordan, which for geopolitical reasons has found itself trapped between two troublemakers — Iran and Israel.”  

After Iran’s barrage of more than 300 missiles and drones did limited damage, as many of them were shot down by American, British, Israeli and Jordanian forces, National Security Council spokesperson John Kirby said Monday on MSNBC’s “Morning Joe” that the coordinated operation was “an extraordinary military success” that sent “a strong message about where Israel is in the region versus where Iran is in the region, which is increasingly isolated.”  

But there was no such boasting from America’s partners in the Middle East, where even acknowledgment of the weekend’s events was muted.

One sighting of their difficult domestic messaging came Monday, when Jordan’s foreign minister, Ayman Safadi, told state television that the country would defend itself against any threat to its sovereignty and airspace, including from Israel.

The comments, echoed in foreign media interviews, were among the few public statements Jordanian officials have made about the country’s role. 

Iran said the salvo was retaliation for an attack on the Iranian consular building in the Syrian capital, Damascus, which killed two senior commanders and five advisers from Iran’s Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps . Israel has not claimed responsibility for the attack, for which it is widely believed to be responsible. 

Israel may test Jordan’s commitment in a matter of hours depending on whether and how it decides to respond.

Among the three Arab states that participated in Israel’s defense, Jordan is the only one that shares a border with Israel and the only one that took part in the air operation to destroy the drones. 

In a measure of the Middle East’s new realignment, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates shared intelligence about Iranian plans with the U.S. after they were briefed on them to safeguard their airspace, as first reported on Monday by The Wall Street Journal . 

While the UAE normalized its diplomatic relations with Israel four years ago, Saudi Arabia was on the verge of doing so before the negotiations were derailed by Hamas’ Oct. 7 attacks, which Israeli officials say killed 1,200 people.     

Both of the monied Gulf monarchies are “heavily reliant on Western states,” said Tahani Mustafa, a senior analyst at the International Crisis Group, a Belgium-based think tank. Saudi Arabia “wants a U.S. security pact,” he said. “Until that alliance is kind of fixed, Saudi will try to do all it can to remain in the U.S.’ good books.” 

Jordan’s participation signaled a kind of volte-face for a state that has been unsparing in its criticism of Israel’s six-month military campaign in the Gaza Strip. It was the first country to withdraw its ambassador from Israel, it has repeatedly called for a cease-fire, and it has taken the lead on delivering aid into the besieged enclave. 

Rather than signal a newfound affection for its neighbor, Jordan’s participation in the operation shows its wholesale reliance on American and Israeli diplomatic and economic support, said Rantawi of the Al Quds Center for Political Studies. 

Even though Palestinian refugees are about half of the population, Jordan became the second Arab country to recognize Israel in 1994. Its reliance on the wider West goes even deeper: Jordan’s landscape is dotted with American, French and British military bases, and its economy is largely propped up by humanitarian and military aid.

Jordan’s government also signed a 2021 defense agreement that essentially gives the American military free use of its land and airspace.

“I don’t think they’ll have much choice than to go wherever the tide takes them,” said Mustafa of the International Crisis Group. “It’s ultimately not up to them.”

Jordan is also eager to parry calls from right-wing Israeli lawmakers to take in more Palestinian refugees — part of a long-standing push to effectively turn Jordan into a de facto Palestinian state, she said.

But Jordan’s participation in the American “coalition” could still stand in the way of the government’s desire to close the yawning gap between public policy and public opinion, Rantawi said, citing Jordanians’ relentless criticism of Israel’s war in Gaza.

So far, the messaging has appeared to work in all three countries. Tensions between the largely Sunni Muslim Saudi Arabia, Jordan and the UAE on one side and Iran, which is majority Shia, on the other have dominated the Middle East for decades.

“There has been a narrative going on for years that Iran is trying to destabilize Jordan,” said Ghaith al-Omari, a senior fellow at the Washington Institute for Near East Policy and a former official in the Palestinian Authority.

The ball is now very much in Israel’s court. Were Israel to launch a tit-for-tat strike on Iran, it would risk further alienating public opinion among its hard-won Middle East partners, Omari said.

“Things can become very messy if the Israelis try to retaliate over Jordanian airspace,” he said.

Matt Bradley is a London-based foreign correspondent for NBC News and MSNBC.