hueco tanks bouldering tours

Hueco Tanks Guide Service

We offer year-round bouldering, rock climbing, yoga, pictograph, and hiking guided tours in the Hueco Tanks backcountry (East Mountain, East Spur, and West Mountain), about 30 miles east of El Paso, Texas. We also offer photography services during these tours if desired.

Schedule a Bouldering, Yoga, Pictograph, or Hiking tour at Hueco Tanks or email us at [email protected] for more info.

Blue Lizard Yoga

For information on our yoga studio and school in the El Paso city limits, please visit our other website at www.bluelizardyoga.com

Hueco Tanks in the News

Blue Lizard Climbing and Yoga, LLC

17561 Old Butterfield Trail, El Paso, TX 79938

[email protected]

1 (512) 843-0963

Most photos copyright Steve Marek 2010-2024

A Guide to Bouldering Hueco Tanks

• Post by: Conquer Your Crux (Will)
• Last Updated On: November 7, 2023

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Regardless  of how long you’ve been climbing, you’ve probably heard someone talk about climbing at Hueco Tanks. Hueco Tanks, Texas, is known the world over for its amazing ecology, stellar views, and spectacular climbs, but there’s a lot to know before you go climbing at Hueco Tanks for the first time. 

In this article, we’ll cover the basics of bouldering Hueco Tanks. We’ll talk about the fees and costs associated with climbing here, as well as a quick breakdown of the rules and regulations you’ll have to follow. Don’t worry; we’ll talk about the amazing climbs too! 

Hueco Tanks: Overview

Hueco Tanks, located about 45 minutes outside of El Paso, Texas, is one of the best, if not the best, bouldering locations in the US. Known for amazing pockets and gorgeous roof problems, this popular climbing destination is highly regulated, so make sure you know what to expect before heading to Hueco. 

Hueco Tanks bouldering is divided into four mountains that are all covered in boulder problems. The East, East Spur, and West mountain are all accessible with a guide only, so if you want to climb here, you’ll need to book a guide. Hueco Tanks guided tours can be either public or private and can cost anywhere from $20 to over $100. 

The North Mountain is the only mountain that is accessible without a guide, but it is also highly regulated. Hueco Tanks is a Texas state park, and they only take reservations for 70 people to climb the North Mountain every day. They do reserve ten extra spots for walk-ups, but beware because these will fill up fast. 

If you need more specific information on Hueco Tanks or are looking to help support the park and the climbing access within, please check out the Climber of Hueco Tanks Coalition. This group of climbers works to take care of the park and the climbing access, preserving it for those to come. 

Why You Should Climb Hueco Tanks?

Climbing Hueco Tanks is iconic. The boulder problems are stunning, and the history and ecology are stellar. Climbers love the incredible beauty of the area that they get to experience while climbing on some of the most interesting-looking rocks around. 

Hueco Tanks bouldering grades are the standard for other climbing areas across the US. The V scale that we use in the US to rate boulder problems was developed here, so climbing in Hueco Tanks is like climbing through history. 

When is the Best Time to Climb Hueco Tanks?

Hueco Tanks’ climbing season starts around September and continues all the way through April. If you try to climb here during May, June, July, or August, you’ll come across a lot fewer people, but the temperatures will also peak at over 100 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, meaning that many climbs will be too hot to touch. 

Hueco is popular during the winter months, making it a great place for a Thanksgiving or Christmas break climbing trip. Keep in mind that the roof climbs, which are amazing in the summer since they stay cool, will be cold in the winter. The most popular seasons for climbing at Hueco Tanks boulders are fall and spring due to their perfect sending temps.

How Hard Is It to Climb Hueco Tanks?

Hueco Tanks is known for having a huge range in climbing route difficulty. With boulder problems ranging from V0 all the way to above V12+, you are sure to find a boulder that is right for you. The area has hundreds of routes in the V2 to V8 range, making it a perfect place to go with your friends since everyone can find something that works for them.

What are the Recommended Routes in Hueco Tanks?

With over 800 boulder problems on the North Mountain alone, there are excellent routes everywhere you turn in Hueco Tanks, but these are some of the standout routes that you can find in the park: 

• Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2): A super overhanging roof climb that is touted as one of the best V2 climbs in the world. 
• Animal Acts (V5): A creative V5 on West Mountain that starts low and traverses out to a rail before finishing on some easier vertical climbing. 
• Warm Up Roof (V4): A visually stunning V4 on East Mountain that starts low and traverses along a spectacular flake up and out of the roof. 

These are by no means the only classic routes at Hueco Tanks, so make sure you don’t just limit yourselves to the routes you read about online. There are exceptional routes everywhere you turn, so find ones that work for you and inspire you. 

Important Things to Note When Planning to Climb Hueco Tanks 

There are a lot of logistics to figure out before you go bouldering at Hueco Tanks. Here are some of the most important things to think about before you go: 

It costs $7 per day for each adult in your party to enter the park. Some guided tours will include this cost in them, but many of them will not. You can also buy a Texas state park pass, which will cover your day-use fee for a year in any Texas state park. This year’s long pass will cost you $70 per year. 

Remember that the park only allows  70 Hueco Tanks climbing reservations per day   so, make sure you plan ahead. If you show up and they have reached the quota for the day, the rangers will turn you away unless you are able to get onto a guided tour and are willing to pay for that.  You can make these reservations over the phone up to a month in advance and they do fill up fast, so planning ahead is essential for visiting.

• Where to stay 

Hueco Tanks only has about 20 campsites in the park, and they book up months in advance. Keep in mind that you must arrive at these sites at least one hour before the park closes so you don’t get locked out of your site at night. There are a handful of campgrounds right outside the park that you can also stay at, but these fill up quickly too. 

Although there are a few campgrounds with yurts or other non-tent accommodations near the park, if you are looking for a hotel, you’ll want to look in El Paso. The closest hotels in El Paso are only about 30 minutes from the park, which is not a bad drive to make in the morning at all. 

Since only the North Mountain is accessible without a guide, there is a high likelihood that you will need to hire a guide or join a public guide group to get to climbing in Hueco Tanks. Blue Lizard Yoga and Climbing is one of the most popular climbing guiding companies in the area, but you can also ask at the visitor center when you check in about other companies and options. 

Depending on the day, you may have the opportunity to join a public guided group. These groups are cheaper than hiring your own guide, but you will get less say in where you go during the day. They also fill up fast, so make sure you get there early. 

• Guidebooks 

Guidebooks to Hueco Tanks  are interesting since most of them only focus on the North Mountain. If you are looking for the most popular guide to bouldering Hueco Tanks, look no further than the Wolverine Publishing guidebook. It covers over 850 boulder problems on the North Mountain and even has about 20 pages dedicated to describing the more popular routes on the other mountains. All in all, it’s an excellent book. 

• Rules and Regulations 

Hueco Tanks is a highly protected area, meaning there are a lot of rules to be aware of. First, make sure you know what times the gates open and close since those times are final, and you will be locked either in or out at that time. Next, expect to spend more time at the visitor center than you might at other climbing locations. 

This is because you will be asked to watch an orientation film and go over the rules of the area with a ranger. Sticking to trails is essential in Hueco Tanks for preserving the plant life of the area and not ruining the cultural sites that are hidden away in the rocks. Rangers take protecting this landscape seriously, and so should you. 

Wrapping Things Up: A Guide to Bouldering Hueco Tanks

Climbing Hueco Tanks boulders is something that every climber dreams of. The gorgeous lines and features make these highly protected boulders truly one of a kind. Make sure that you fully understand the rules and regulations before you go to Hueco Tanks because we wouldn’t want you to miss out on these amazing climbs because you didn’t understand the reservation system or something like that. Planning a trip to Hueco Tanks should be on every climber’s bucket list!

Looking for more guides? Check out more of our climbing tips here.

Here are a few to help you out:

>  A Guide To Bouldering Joe’s Valley

>  A Guide to Bouldering Rocktown

> Best Rock Climbing Destinations in St. George

> Top 15 Summer Rock Climbing Destinations

Conquer Your Crux (Will)

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Gumby to Dirtbag – Ultimate Guide to Climbing in Hueco Tanks

Climbing in Hueco Tanks State Park

We just spent three weeks at Hueco Tanks, our first time ever. And this guide is everything you need to know for your first time there – or what we learned. You could call this a FAQ, because it answers a lot of questions WE have asked, had answered, and now are giving to you. Without further ado… this is a beginner’s guide to climbing in Hueco Tanks.

The Season:

Pretty much when everywhere else is too cold to climb. The bouldering season goes from beginning of November to end of March; pretty much the whole time the Hueco Rock Ranch is open – although I wish they’d stay open a little longer.

By early March, everyone’s saying its too hot, the Rock Ranch closes, and hot blooded Colombians are just now thawing from winter, ready to boulder in the life-giving sun. It does get WAY too windy in late March, though.

I’m writing this from a library in El Paso, hiding from 40 mph winds in the desert as I write, actually.

Is this boring stuff? But this is why Hueco Tanks is said to be the best bouldering in the world.

The rock is a weak granite that feels to me like sandstone… but the way its been shaped by erosion across eons? Oh mama! This rock makes climbing feel like it makes sense!

Where to Stay to Climb in Hueco Tanks:

• Rock Ranch: We car camped for $10 per person, and it was super worth it. You can a communal area with furniture, a cooking area, a ping pong table and lots of cool people to meet. If you choose the rooms, they cost $25 for the bunks and $45 for a private room, per person per night. They have their own cool, nicer, communal area. The Ranch is open from mid-November to mid-March.
• Gleatherland: This camping location is known for being quiet and peaceful, and it’s first-come first-serve for camping, at $5 per person per night. If you’re in an RV, it costs $25 per night and you need a reservation. It gets cheaper the longer you stay, and Gleatherland is open from November to April.
• The Mud Hut: This location is where the party’s at. You’ll be able to meet a lot of climbers, and it’s the closest to the entrance to Hueco Tanks. It costs $5 per night per person.
• El Paso: This puts you about 20-30 minutes away from Hueco Tanks, but getting an AirBnB or hotel is always an option and may give you the comfort you need for a substantial price increase.
• In the State Park: They have some campsites with water and others with electricity. Staying here puts you a bit far away from civilization, and you’re trapped in the park from 6pm to 8am every day. If you have the Texas State Park Pass, it can be a good option in terms of price, but it’s a bit limiting.

Should you make reservations?

The short answer is yes.

Only 70 people can visit the park self-guided every day. That’s why there’s are two types of people entering Hueco Tanks each day. The people with reservations, who can enter the park between 8 and 10 am (or call 915-857-1135) to hold their reservation), and those who are waiting in a line of cars on the right side of the road at the Hueco Tanks entrance, if the park’s full.

Right at 8 am every day, the first 10 people waiting in line get to enter the park immediately. From 8-10 am, those in line can get in as and if people call to cancel their reservations. At 10, all unfulfilled reservations are automatically cancelled and that number of people waiting in line get to go in. After that, if you’re in line, you have to wait for people to start exiting the park.

It helps having reservations, and you can make them starting 3 months before your visit by calling (512) 389-8911. Before calling, make sure you’ve made an account for yourself on Reserve America . You can call and make a reservation for multiple people, and they all have to have accounts on Reserve America.

This is especially nice if you’re going to be climbing in Hueco Tanks for a mere week and need to be in the park by 8 am every day you have planned.

We were climbing for 3 weeks, and our plans changed based on how WRECKED our bodies were and due to the weather.

We were able to climb on days we didn’t have reservations, and it was no problem at all, especially during the week. Some days, we were able to arrive at noon and get right in; other days, we waited in line for 2 hours. One day we did NOT get in (it was a Saturday).

It’ll definitely be harder to get in without a reservation during high season and the weekends, but if you get in line SUPER early, you’ll most likely make it in.

That being said, if you have a reservation and choose to forego it, CANCEL IT so that someone in line can get in quick!

Best boulders in Hueco Tanks:

This is very subjective, obviously, but my favorite climbs were: Girls of Juarez, Stegosaur, Denizen, Free Willy, and King Cobra.

Lala’s favorite boulders were: Baby Martini, Lobster Claw, Denizen, and Girls of Juarez.

Should you get the Texas State Park Pass?

Most likely, yes. It costs $70 and whoever is in the car with you will pay $0 to get into the park. All it takes is 10 days of climbing for it to be worth it for one person. With 4 people in a car? 3 days. And it lasts a full year, so you can use it next season too if you time it right!

Tour or self-guided?

Self guided means you’ll be rock climbing on North Mountain, since all others require a guide. There is more than enough climbing on North Mountain for a lifetime, and it has the best boulders. Going on tours every day could get very pricey, but it’s worth getting to know other areas. So go on some tours, but mostly self guided!

Do you need a guidebook?

Yea, it makes it so much easier to find boulders. However, if it’s too pricey, you do get signal pretty much around the entire park or at least a stone’s throw away, so you could rely on Mountain Project or a similar app.

Fun Climbing Challenges

We met some folks at the Hueco Rock Ranch who had been climbing at Hueco Tanks State Park so long, they were making up games… and man, they had the right idea. Here’s two super fun challenges!

• The Tour d’ Fours: Climb these ten V4’s in a day at Hueco Tanks, in this order (this day was spectacular) – Dab, T-bone Shuffle, Lithologic, Squirm, B-Flat, Denizen, Pudgy Pussack, Double Vision, Girls of Juarez, and Bloody Flapper. The end will haunt you. A classically sand-bagged Hueco Tanks V4. Enjoy!
• Nobody Runs Out of Here Alive: Start at the pond parking and run up to Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2). Climb it and run all the way back down to where you started. Current record (about 6:30) and rules are in a binder in the barn at Hueco Rock Ranch.

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Hueco Tanks Climbing

Areas in hueco tanks, description.

The best bouldering in the world, Hueco is amazing, but you gotta play the game to get in. Must call Texas State Parks (512)389-8911 to make reservations for North Mountain (be sure to write down your confirmation #s as they tend to lose them). The Hueco Rock Ranch (915-856-7181) no longer offers guiding services but does offer excellent lodging and camping options.Best time of year to visit is November through March. It gets windy through the end of March and beginning of April. After mid-April, it's hot as sin. The rock is amazing, bullet hard and sharp on the digits. Matt Wilder's Hueco Tanks guidebook from Wolverine Publishing is the best resource for routes. It is very extensive, has great directions and pictures. As of 2020, a new North Mountain guidebook has been published by Wolverine Publishing ( wolverinepublishing.com/sto… ).

 This online guide will focus on North Mountain, since in the other areas you'll have a guide and other people who can point out the problems.

Since two thirds of the park is by guide access only, you can reach out to the local guide companies: Blue Lizard Climbing and Yoga ( bluelizardclimbingandyoga.com/ ), Sessions Climbing & Guiding ( sessionsclimbing.com/ ) and Wagon Wheel Coopt ( wagonwheelcoopt.com/ )  to provide guided access into the park and the backcountry. 

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Hueco rock ranch, 738 total climbs, route finder - best climbs for you, classic climbing routes at hueco tanks, weather averages, add new photo photos.

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HUECO MOUNTAIN HUT

CRASH PAD RENTALS – CAMPING

Hueco Tanks Access

How to go climbing at Hueco Tanks

Planning on visiting Hueco Tanks State Park during the winter climbing season? You read online and abroad it can be difficult to get access. It can be without advanced reservations. You need to understand the dynamics behind the park system.

Unfortunately most of the information on Hueco Tanks access is not accurate or is outdated. Especially on social media such as, instagram and facebook, etc.

You can make reservations for North Mountain access way in advance (90 days) and or join volunteer back country bouldering tours 1 week in advance. Self-Guided on North Mountain is $7.00 per person per day or you can purchase the annual Texas State Parks Pass for $70.00. This pass also allows everyone in the vehicle to enter without additional charges or fees. This is a great way to save money when visiting for a long period of time.

Make Reservations Before the Season Begins! Hueco Tanks Climbing Season Begins in October and ends in March Set your alarm clock or calendar and call the reservation line beginning in September.  You can make reservations up to 90 days in advance. Remember to continue to call and make reservation as the 90 day reservation window moves across the calendar. This is the single most important rule to follow if you want to have an affordable visit. Note: by the end of October ALL North Mountain self-guided slots will be taken through the end of January!

2 Ways to Get In

How to Access the Hueco Tanks park for Rock Climbing – Bouldering

1. SELF-GUIDED  Call  (512) 389-8911  to make a reservation to climb in the North Mountain  $7.00 per person (Up to 90 days in advance)

2.   VOLUNTEER TOUR  Call  (915) 849-6684  to join or request a back country bouldering guide  $9.00 per person (Up to 7 days in advance)

Join a Volunteer Tour

One of the best ways to access the park for bouldering is by joining or requesting a volunteer tour. Call or walk into the Ranger station and get on a tour or request one:

• You can only access West Mountain, East Mountain and East Spur with a tour guide.
• Request tours for Wednesdays through Sundays throughout the year by calling (915) 849-6684 before your visit. Due to staff time constraints,  we can only give tours if requested early enough to confirm a guide.

Guided Tour:  Join a tour the same day or reserve your spot a minimum of one week in advance by calling  (915) 849-6684

What to do if all the North Mountain spots are Reserved?

• Coming to Hueco Tanks without advanced reservations in all aspects can be problematic and stressful.
• Make reservations 3 months in advance beginning in September and October.
• Reserve camping at or near the park to avoid being late to self-guided and back country tours. Air BnB’s located in the city have been problematic.
• If needed. Reserve bouldering crash pads way in advance to insure you’ll have the gear.

(7) Comments

Yes, BnB was not a good idea. Traffic in El Paso is heavy in the morning. Definitely a big mistake. Missed our tour.

Signing up for the early 8am tours is risky. Better to get on the 9am and later tours.

Is there guides that take same day reservations? Or how can I find a guide when it’s late notice?

Camp or hang out at the campgrounds. The mountain hut is a good place and the rock ranch is open this year. Usually you can find a guide with a few open slots.

Social media searches are just a bunch of guides trying to sell tours.

Pay guides are the last resort imho

So happy that volunteer guides can climb. There’s more volunteer tours available now. Great people.

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How to Climb in Hueco

Photo by: Dawn Kish

By Sierra McGivney

Down in southern Texas, where tumbleweeds and cacti rule the desert, lies a bouldering mecca with a rich history and hundreds of problems waiting for you to climb.  With 300 days of sun and perfect holds carved into boulders, Hueco Tanks State Park has it all.

"It's a wonderland of boulders bristling with positive micro-flakes and peppered with gaping huecos; it's enormous roofs, vein-bursting traverses, and pleasant mantle-free topouts; it's joyful jughauls, cerebral sequences, and impossible-looking problems that go." —John Sherman, Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering

Highballs, Crimps, and Huecos, Oh My!

Hueco Tanks is the birthplace of the V grading system, the Yosemite of bouldering if you will. Climbers can find trad and sport climbs here, but they are few and far between. Hueco Tanks is the quintessential bouldering destination.

PC: Michael Lim

As Todd Skinner said in Desert Dreams, "This place is brutal. [But] if your elbows hold together and the tendons of your fingers hold together, then you'll leave Hueco stronger than you've ever been."

Hueco has a range of bouldering from V0 to V15. If you're just starting or looking to get stronger in the offseason or just love bouldering, Hueco Tanks is for you. Better Eat Your Wheaties , a V9 boulder problem, is an overhung crimp marathon that won't leave you missing your gym's moon board. If you love highball bouldering, The Maiden V0 is the must-climb highball—topping out at 35 feet; you won't want to look down. You are visiting Hueco, so you'll want to climb some of the world-famous holds: The Ghetto Simulator V2 follows an incredible line of chalked huecos up to a crux finish. Be warned, this climb may be greasy because of its popularity. 

North Mountain alone has 850 problems, so there are hundreds of options, grades, and climbing styles at Hueco. For more information about climbing in the area, check out the essential bouldering guide by Matt Wilder and Jason Kehl from the AAC Library . 

"I have traveled the world and have yet to see a place superior to Hueco Tanks in problem concentration or one that better embodies the inexplicable desire to progress that all climbers share. Hueco's rock quietly urges you to come closer, to take a look under all the roofs, touch the holds, and somehow gives you the audacity to try things you would never have dared before." —Scott Milton, Hueco Tanks: The Essential Guide to America's Bouldering Mecca

Training is an important tactic for a successful and fun climbing trip. Since you'll be visiting Hueco during the winter months, you'll want to begin training in August or September. Next, you'll want to focus on a goal for your trip. Hueco is known for having lots of different climbing styles, so the more you narrow it down, the better. As there are hundreds of problems with varying levels of difficulty and style, you can get as specific as training for roof climbing V5 and up, or you can leave it as open as wanting to climb all of the highballs in the park—either way, you can build a solid base to be prepared for any type of climbing you'll come across in Hueco.

PC: Dawn Kish

Porphyritic syenite is no stranger to wearing down, and you are bound to find a few polished climbs. Train to improve your body tension and get good at using tiny feet. Hueco's classic and popular climbs have seen a lot of people and tend to be slippery, so improving both tension and foot placement will go a long way. 

Even if techy vertical walls and boulders call your name, improving roof skills will benefit your climbing at Hueco. Focus on strengthening your core and legs. If you have yet to explore climbing on a roof, practice heel hooks, toe hooks, and knee bars at your climbing gym. 

The last thing you'll want to focus on is power endurance. That might sound a bit out of place since bouldering requires only a handful of moves, but chances are you'll be throwing yourself at a boulder problem repeatedly. You'll want to be able to try moves all day until you send or collapse, so building up endurance should be in your training plan.

For a deeper dive into training, check out Power Company Climbing .

Pictographs and Problems: A Brief History

All aspects of Hueco are deeply rooted in a rich cultural history. Hueco Tanks is part of the Chihuahua desert ecoregion, the largest desert in North America. Though evidently known to climbers as an epic bouldering location, Hueco Tanks is also home to deeply important historical artifacts and a sacred site for several Indigenous cultures. The human history of Hueco spans thousands of years, possibly starting about 10,000 years ago, and the pictographs and petroglyphs there tell the story of many—they continue to be an important part of this sacred site for the Kiowa, Mescalero Apache, Comanche, and Tigua (or Ysleta del Sur Pueblo) tribes, who use the site for prayer and gatherings.

The history that weaves together Hueco Tanks, making it such a unique place to climb, was a point of friction between the route establishers and the park rangers in the past. John "Vermin" Sherman arrived in the early 1980s, establishing over 400 classic boulder problems and the "V" rating system. 

"Along with great friends like Donny, Hardin, Chris Hill, and others, we got to develop the finest bouldering on the continent," says John Sherman in Hueco Tanks: The Essential Guide to America's Bouldering Mecca.

The act of bolting was illegal in the park until 1989, and since the park is mostly bouldering, this didn't prove to be a problem until Todd Skinner showed up, ready to bring challenging sport climbing to Hueco. 

Skinner spent winters climbing at Hueco Tanks, floating between campgrounds and friends' houses, and spent summers developing routes all over the world. He was known especially for the first free ascent of the Salathé Wall in Yosemite with Paul Piana in 1988. As time passed, he rented apartments or homes, becoming a hub for climbers. 

According to the article "When Legends Die, the Changing Face of Hueco Tanks," Skinner and friends would bolt routes at night, erroneously arguing that there was a loop-hole in the Park’s no-bolt rule—bolters had to be caught in the act, or such was Skinner’s interpretation. When morning rolled around, the route was legal to climb. In this way, Skinner put up Legends (5.13a) in 1987. 

The park rangers were not a fan of this, because Skinner and others were trespassing in order to use this supposed “loop-hole,” and clearly not acknowledging the spirit of the prohibition on bolting. After an unknown climber got caught bolting, the park banned rope climbing for three weeks in 1988. Tensions continued to rise as Hueco became a well-known destination for climbing in the 80s and 90s. But climbers were not the only user group putting pressure on this fragile environment. Between rowdy parties, destroyed vegetation, and defacement of the historic pictographs, Hueco couldn't handle the influx of visitors—hikers, tourists, locals, and climbers—and their impact on the landscape. Beginning September 1, 1998, reservations would be required to enter the park.

As climbers and the Park settled into these new ethics of engagement, Hueco climbing continued to make a name for itself as a unique destination and community. Skinner, Amy Whisler, Carol Gogas, and John Gogas purchased the land currently known as Hueco Rock Ranch in 1991. They built the Ranch to be a communal space for climbers, much like the early days of his rented apartments and houses. The kitchen and common room were made to be the center of the house. Everything was built around housing a community of climbers. 

"We soon understood that what most affected the quality of each day was not the climbs we chose but the people we chose to climb with. This led to a Utopian experiment of building a home a mile from the park to house a carefully chosen core of great people, many of whom also happened to be great climbers," reflects Todd Skinner in Hueco Tanks: The Essential Guide to America's Bouldering Mecca.

In 2000, Rob Rice took over the Ranch and added a guide service to the property. After more than a decade of ownership and management, Rice relocated out of state. In May 2012, The Access Fund went under contract to purchase the Ranch and assigned the property to the American Alpine Club for long-term ownership and management.

 Skinner's vision of a home for climbers in Hueco would continue, but in a new form.

How to Climb in Hueco: A Checklist

Feeling inspired to wrestle some sandstone pebbles in the Tanks? Here's some beta worth following–ensuring you are prepared for your trip. 

Plan your reservation. 

The daily entrance fee into Hueco Tanks State Park is $7; the park is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. October through April. A note for check-in: The office closes a half hour before the park closes. Reservations are required to minimize our impact on the park because of the fragile desert landscape and ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. 

Reservations go fast during the weekend but stay relatively open during the weekdays. Your safest route is to book as far in advance as you can. If you forget to reserve a pass, you can show up at the park as it opens and try to get a walk-in pass. 

To make a reservation to climb in the self-guided area, call (512) 389-8911. North Mountain is in the self-guided area of the park. A 15-minute orientation video is required for visitors to watch if they are venturing into the self-guided area. Don't worry; once you've watched it, you are good until next year.

A guide service is required to access the East Mountain, East Spur, and West Mountain. You can request a tour through the park by calling (915) 849-6684. Another option is going through one of the local guide services listed below:

Blue Lizard Climbing & Yoga

Sessions Climbing

Wagon Wheel Co-Opt

Pack a Skin Kit

 Items to include but are not limited to are nail clippers, a roll of tape, a finger file, and nontoxic glue. "The bloody flapper is the official injury of Hueco Tanks," according to John Sherman.

PC: Hueco Tanks: The Essential Guide to America's Bouldering Mecca by John Sherman

Mind the Heat & the Cacti

Bring sunscreen. More sunscreen. Maybe even a hat. Even in the winter, the desert sun can be intense. The average temperature in January is 44 degrees Fahrenheit, with the first freeze in mid-November and the last freeze in late March. According to the Mountain Project page for Hueco Tanks, "After mid-April, it's hot as sin."  

The plants here are no joke; most are out to maim you. See the provided excerpt from John Sheman's Hueco Guidebook. 

Grocery stores

The closest grocery store is The Montana Vista Market in Homestead Meadow South.

If you're driving through El Paso to Hueco, you can stop there for grocery and gear stores.

Brush Up on Your Outdoor Ethics

As John Sherman said in his 1995 edition of Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering, "Hueco Tanks is not an amusement park created for climbers." It's up to us to preserve and keep Hueco open to climbers. Leave No Trace includes not using social trails, brushing your tick marks, and never climbing on or near petroglyphs.

Some bouldering areas have been closed due to their proximity to petroglyphs. Read more about how to identify petroglyphs and which rocks to respectfully steer clear of climbing—>in this article. James Lucas covers a new app that allows climbers and other recreationists to check rock formations for faint petroglyphs, and to learn about their significance and meaning!

PC:Dawn Kish

Book Your Lodging and Meet New Climbers

If you plan on climbing in Hueco Tanks, the Hueco Rock Ranch is the best place to stay. The Rock Ranch is a 4-mile drive to the Park and offers a range of accommodations from private rooms to campsites. Costs vary depending on lodging type and your AAC member status.

The Ranch has three options for accommodations: A house with private or shared rooms, camping for two people to a site, and flat spots for "road-tripping machines." The barn is a communal cooking area with a lounge, games, and books. There are showers available for $1 for 4 minutes.

Well-behaved dogs are allowed at the campground but not in the bunkhouse.

Prices are as follows: Non Member / Member

Private Bunk Room: $75 / $40

Communal Bunk Room: $45 / $25

Camping: $10 / $6 per person

Make A Wifi Plan and other Hueco Rock Ranch Logistics

If you are a work from home nomad and plan on answering emails or taking meetings, Wi-Fi is available, but it has a limited bandwidth, so it might be worth bringing another internet source. The water is potable, but the Ranch relies on water delivery, so please bring your own water! If you're just trying out bouldering or don't own a crash pad, they are available to rent for $15 for the first day.

There are both trash and recycling bins at the ranch.

The Hueco Rock Ranch season is from November 17, 2023 - March 10, 2024.

Have A Rainy Day Plan

Hueco is a desert, but it does occasionally rain. Hueco Tanks State Park has recently instituted a new rule that prohibits climbing until 24 hours after a rain event. Learn more at the Park’s website.

Train Creatively

Get prepared to utilize a lot of body tension and creative foot beta. Seek out those boulders in the gym or locally that teach you a thing or two about toe hooks, bicycles, and knee scums. 

Dream Up a Tick-List, and Then Be Ready to Abandon It

There are hundreds of boulders; keep your mind open and be willing to try anything. You never know which boulder will kick your butt.

Bouldering at Hueco is PHYSICAL—plan for rest days.

Bring books or games.

Explore El Paso (40 minutes) or White Sands National Monument (1.5 hours). 

Visit the Ysleta del Sur Pueblo Cultural Center Museum and learn about the extensive history and culture of the Ysleta del Sur Pueblo tribe, who continue to revere Hueco Tanks as a sacred site for prayer and gatherings.

If you can line these up with rainy days, you're golden.

Keep an eye out for the Hueco Rock Rodeo!

The pebble-wrestling competition of your dreams. Coming back to Hueco February 16-18th, 2024.

Grab a bouldering pad and set off on a winter climbing adventure where the sun always shines and the accommodations are the best around. Reservations are now open for the 2023-2024 Hueco season!

**This article is undergoing edits thanks to community feedback.

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