sicily trip reports

The Ultimate Sicily Road Trip: An Epic 10 Days in Sicily Itinerary

Beautiful, mysterious Sicily, with its looming volcano, sparkling azure waters, and hilltop villages, is one of those travel destinations that I have spent most of my life dreaming about. After finally taking a Sicily road trip, I can say confidently that the island was worth the wait… and that we’ll be working our way through another Sicily itinerary before too long.

The largest island in the Mediterranean truly does have it all: whether you’re looking to lounge on a beach, dive headfirst into the cuisine, explore the Roman (or Greek, or Norman, or Arab, or Byzantine) history, or visit famous Mount Etna, a Sicily road trip has something to offer.

Planning your own trip to Sicily and not sure exactly where to go?

We’ve put together this 10 days in Sicily itinerary for first-timers to the island–this is how to make the most of your first Sicily road trip!

Table of Contents

Why to Take a Sicily Road Trip

How we structured this 10 day sicily itinerary, a note on the language of the island, the ultimate 10 day sicily road trip itinerary, other places to visit on your sicily road trip, sicily road trip itinerary map, what to know about driving in sicily, the best time to visit sicily, what to pack for sicily.

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Sicily was made for road tripping: with plenty of wide-open spaces, beautiful natural spots, and tiny towns worth visiting, there are few places in Italy more worthy of hitting the open road than Sicily.

Add in a less-than-ideal public transportation system, and a Sicily road trip quickly emerges as the clear best way to explore the island–but you need to be prepared in order to make the most of it.

You could easily create a month-long Sicily itinerary and still leave the island with stones unturned–but let’s face it, most people won’t have that long to spend on the island.

Our Sicily road trip itinerary is designed to hit all the best spots on the island for first-timers to visit, allowing you to get a taste of many different parts of Sicily: complicated yet lovely Palermo, beautiful beaches, and hilltop villages are all covered, as well as some of the most popular cities in Sicily.

Next to each location, we’ve noted the minimum number of full days (so, not counting a day you arrive at 4pm, for example) we’d recommend spending in each location. 

This works out to be quick-paced but reasonable 10 day Sicily itinerary–but if you’re lucky enough to have more time to spend in Sicily, you can extend it far longer, both by increasing the number of days spent in each location and adding new destinations (we’ll provide some suggestions for those below as well).

Though Italian is the official language in Sicily, Sicilian dialect–which is related and yet distinctly different, to the point where Italian speakers will have a hard time understanding it–is widely spoken in Sicily.

In the destinations covered on this Sicily road trip itinerary, you won’t run into many people (especially those who work with or near tourists) who don’t comfortably speak Italian–but if you stop off in smaller towns along the way, you’ll start to hear (and even see, on menus and such) more and more dialect.

As for English, well–like most places in the world, you can get by among those working in the tourism industry by using it, but it’ll be a bit harder here than in most of Italy.

We strongly recommend learning at least some basic Italian phrases before taking your Sicily road trip–the more Italian you speak, the easier your Sicily travels will be.

I don’t speak much Italian, but knowing enough to ask for (and receive) directions, order food in out-of-the-way places, read basic signs, speak with taxi drivers, etc, made our trip a bit simpler.

Palermo: 2 Days

The capital of Sicily is known for being a bit of a rundown place–and though in some ways it is, it’s also a beautiful, laid-back, and endlessly engrossing city. 

We spent an entire week in Palermo and still weren’t ready to leave when it was over, but 2 days in Palermo will be enough to give you a taste of the major sights and start your 10 days in Sicily itinerary off on a great foot.

What to Do in Palermo

Step inside the magnificent palermo cathedral..

Dating back to the 12th century and built in a variety of architectural styles, the beautiful and distinctive Palermo Cathedral is one of the most important religious buildings in the city.

It’s also home to some very unique touches, like a sundial on the floor marked with zodiac signs and an inscription from the Quran on one of the columns near the entrance–both highly unusual for a Catholic church!

Take a walking + food tour in order to see some of Palermo’s best highlights, fast.

Taking a Palermo food and walking tour on one of the first days of your Sicily travels is an excellent way to orient yourself both to the city and to the island as a whole.

Explore historical landmarks, markets, and cuisine while also getting a taste of what Palermo is all about with a fabulous food and walking tour.

We took this fun tour during our trip to Palermo and absolutely loved it!

Book your Palermo food + walking tour today!

Visit the mummies at the Capuchin Crypt of Palermo.

From the 17th to the 19th century in Palermo, increasing numbers of people were mummified in these catacombs–first naturally, and later intentionally, preserving them for all eternity.

The walls of the catacombs are lined with clothed bodies that have their full skeletons intact, staring down at visitors with sometimes disturbingly aware facial features.

No photos are allowed inside, but I can’t impress enough the creepiness of this place–I think it has something to do with the fact that these people are preserved as themselves that adds an extra layer of disturbing to it all, as opposed to places like the catacombs of Paris where the bones are more or less repurposed into artwork using human remains.

If you find catacombs interesting, we highly recommend visiting these during your trip to Sicily–they are, hands down, the most bizarre and fascinating catacombs we have ever seen.

Palermo Travel Tips

You probably don’t need a car here..

Palermo is one of the two major airport hubs in Sicily (Catania is the other), and if you arrive to the island here, we recommend not picking up your rental car until you’re ready to head to Cefalù–it’ll save you both a bit of cash on your rental bill, and a bit of a headache, as you won’t have to worry about parking it.

The easiest way to get from the airport to the city center is the train.

It costs 5 Euros, avoids the hassle of a taxi, and is perfectly comfortable!

Stay in an ideal location, and you should be able to walk everywhere in Palermo.

This is the biggest reason not to kick off your Sicily road trip until after to leave Palermo: here, a car is a liability but doesn’t really add much of a benefit.

You can walk between all of Palermo’s best things to do, so opt for that instead!

Where to Stay in Palermo

Il Lapino  — Home to simple rooms (some with shared bathrooms) and located only a 10-minute walk from the Palermo Cathedral, Il Lapino is very well-reviewed and is an excellent place to stay in Palermo for those on a budget.

Check rates & book your stay at Il Lapino!

Ciuri Ciuri B&B  — Featuring spacious rooms, included breakfast, and an excellent location, mid-range travelers can’t go wrong with a stay at Ciuri Ciuri B&B while in Palermo!

Check rates & book your stay at Ciuri Ciuri B&B!

Palazzo Natoli Boutique Hotel  — Boasting near-perfect reviews, Palazzo Natoli is located in the heart of Palermo, just steps from some of the city’s best highlights. Private balcony views, exceptional customer service, and a delicious daily breakfast are all included here–if you’re looking for the ultimate relaxing stay in Palermo, this is it!

Check rates & book your stay at Palazzo Natoli Boutique Hotel!

Cefalù : 2 Days

Of all the places to visit in Sicily, this is the one outlined on this Sicily road trip itinerary that we personally have the most unfinished business with.

We squeezed a quick visit to Cefalù into one day, but this magnificent seaside town captured our hearts and absolutely deserves more time than that–as we strolled the streets of Cefalù, we fantasized about one day returning here for a month!

In other words, don’t rush: you won’t regret taking two of your 10 days in Sicily to enjoy this beautiful place.

What to Do in Cefalù

Climb to the top of la rocca..

Climbing high over Cefalù to La Rocca takes less than an hour but rewards you with stupendous views over Cefalù and the Mediterranean Sea, as well as providing some interesting stops along the way (namely, the ruins of the Temple of Diana).

Be sure to bring plenty of water and sunscreen, and ideally, complete this climb in the morning or early evening–the midday sun is brutal up here!

Check out the Cefalù Cathedral.

Not many villages as small as Cefalù have cathedrals as impressive–dating back even further than Palermo’s Cathedral, the Cefalù Duomo is absolutely worth visiting during your Sicily road trip, and if the views at La Rocca weren’t enough for you, you can even climb to the top!

Enjoy being a beach bum.

One of the best things to do in Cefalù is simply to enjoy its beach that is conveniently located right outside of the old town, where you’re never far from gelato or a granita.

Pull up a stretch of sand, dip your toes in the water, and enjoy the beauty of Cefalù without stress.

Cefalù Travel Tips

Savor getting lost here..

The small streets and occasional unexpected sea views give Cefalù a delightful charm that completely captivated us during our Sicily travels–this small village is worth wandering aimlessly, and due to its small size, it’s impossible to get too lost along the way.

Where to Stay in Cefalù

Sweet Home Cefalù  — Located practically next door to Cefalù’s beach and complete with both a balcony and a small kitchen, Sweet Home Cefalù gets rave reviews and is the perfect option for budget travelers in Cefalù.

Check rates & book your stay at Sweet Home Cefalù !

Marina House — What’s better than a well-reviewed apartment in the heart of Cefalù? One that’s located right on the water and includes a balcony overlooking the sea!

Check rates & book your stay at Marina House!

Casa Barone Agnello — Housed in an antique home in the center of Cefalù, this impeccably decorated and well-reviewed apartment is perfect for travelers looking for a bit of old-world charm during their trip to Cefalù.

Check rates & book your stay at Casa Barone Agnello!

Taormina: 2 Days

Taormina is probably the most touristic place on this Sicily itinerary, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth adding to your Sicily travels.

Boasting phenomenal views of both Mount Etna and the sparkling Ionian Sea, great swimming nearby, and an incredible Greek theatre, Taormina is hard not to love.

What to Do in Taormina

Visit the greek theatre..

Of all the Greek theatres we have visited in world–including ones in Greece itself–this one is by far the prettiest we have ever seen, and a visit here absolutely belongs on your 10 day Sicily itinerary.

On a perfectly clear day, you’ll see an epic view of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea behind the theatre–but even on a slightly cloudy day like when we visited (at least over Mount Etna, that is), the views are still pretty phenomenal.

Take a day trip to Mount Etna.

Want to add a little thrill to your list of things to do in Taormina? Book a day trip to the crater of an active volcano!

On a clear day, the views of  Mount Etna  from Taormina are fantastic–but there’s still nothing like standing on an active volcano with your own two feet.

Whether you want to book  a morning hike ,  a scenic tour , or  a full day trip  that also includes a visit to the beautiful Alcantara Canyons, you’re bound to find a visit to Mount Etna that appears to your travel style.

Book your day trip to Mount Etna today! Morning Hike  |  Scenic Tour  |  Full Day Trip

Go for a swim at Isola Bella.

Home to what are widely considered to be the best beaches in Taormina, summer visitors should definitely add a visit to Isola Bella to their Sicily road trip itinerary!

Though you can easily reach the island yourself from Taormina via the cable car,  a cruise along the coast  paired with visits to the island’s best swimming spots is an excellent day to spend a hot day in Taormina!

Book your  boat cruise around Isola Bella  today!

Taormina Travel Tips

Not everything is within walking distance..

In order to visit some of Taormina’s most popular sights like Isola Bella, and its beaches in general, you’ll need to head down to the seaside via cable car.

Check the weather carefully.

If you’re in town for a couple of days and one day looks clearer than the other, use the clearer day to visit Mount Etna (or if you don’t want to head all the way to Mount Etna, admire views of it from the Greek Theatre).

Where to Stay in Taormina

Hostel Taormina  — Boasting great reviews and a perfect location in Taormina’s Old Town, Hostel Taormina is the perfect place for budget travelers looking to keep costs down in what is arguably Sicily’s most expensive city.

Both private rooms and dorms are available, and a shared kitchen is located in the hostel.

The only downside? No parking options–so keep that in mind if you choose to book a stay here!

Check rates & book your stay at Hostel Taormina!

Hotel Natalina  — We had a great time at this little hotel!

The location is a short walk from Taormina’s Old Town, the included breakfast quite large by Italian standards, and the customer service excellent. The staff helped us park our rental car for free nearby, which we greatly appreciated!

The rooms are large, but a bit dated–this certainly isn’t a luxury hotel, but it’s definitely a cozy enough place to stay while visiting Taormina, and we’d be happy to stay again.

Check rates & book your stay at Hotel Natalina!

Hotel Continental  — Want to admire the sea views that Taormina is famous for from the comfort of your hotel, while also staying in the lap of luxury?

If so, the Hotel Continental is for you!

Known for its superb location in the heart of Taormina, its views, and its wonderful included breakfast, luxury travelers can’t go wrong with a stay here.

Check rates & book your stay at Hotel Continental!

Syracuse: 2 Days

Packed with ancient ruins, beautiful churches, and a maze of quiet streets, Syracuse (or Siracusa) is second only to Taormina in tourism popularity for Sicily vacations.

For your 2 days in Syracuse, we recommend focusing primarily on the island of Ortigia (or Ortygia), which is a small island right off the coast of Sicily (and I do mean right off the coast–no ferry necessary) that is essentially Syracuse’s lovely old town.

What to Do in Syracuse

Check out castello maniace..

Located on the far edge of Ortigia, this citadel-slash-castle dates to the 13th century (an earlier castle on the site dated to the 11th) and boasts beautiful views over the Ionian Sea.

Stroll through the small streets of Ortigia.

Ortigia is a charming place, and we found that we loved it most when wandering the streets in search of coffee bars, churches (we stumbled across one with a festival going on inside!), and the island’s many ruins.

Be sure to make your way to the Piazza Duomo and the Fountain of Arethusa during your wandering!

Marvel at the Temple of Apollo.

Of all the ancient ruins in Syracuse, the Temple of Apollo is considered the most important.

Dating to the 6th century BCE, the temple has served a whole host of functions over the centuries, including acting as a temple to both Apollo and Artemis, as a church (more than once), and as a mosque.

Syracuse Travel Tips

Stay in ortigia if you can..

This is essentially the old town of Syracuse and is set on an island nearby the main part of the modern city.

It’s beautiful, easy to get lost in, and delightfully fun to explore on foot, making it the perfect place to stay in Syracuse. 

The only catch is what to do with your car, which leads me to…

Choose where you park in advance.

Parking is severely restricted on the island of Ortigia, and on our Sicily road trip we ended up driving in circles for a bit trying to find the right place to leave our car.

Learn from our mistakes and plan carefully beforehand!

Consider visiting the Greek Theatre on your way into or out of Syracuse.

Syracuse’s Greek Theatre is one of its most popular attractions, however, it’s completely across town from Ortigia.

It’s the perfect place to stop for a quick sightseeing break as you arrive in or leave the city, though.

Where to Stay in Syracuse

Room Calafatari — Ortigia is peppered with dozens of small, simple apartments that are used as budget rentals, and Room Calafatari is both a great option and the perfect example of what to expect in Ortigia in a budget price range: no frills but a great location.

Check rates & book your stay at Room Calafatari!

Hotel Posta — With a fabulous location overlooking a port and within a short walk of many of Syracuse’s top attractions, Hotel Posta is a prime choice for mid-range travelers on their Sicily road trip.

Personally, we’d be tempted to upgrade to a room with a balcony–those views are just too good to pass up.

Check rates & book your stay at Hotel Posta!

Hotel Livingston — With excellent reviews, and included breakfast, and a prime location on the edge of Ortigia (most rooms include a sea view!), luxury travelers (or just those looking for a splurge) can’t go wrong with a stay at 4-star Hotel Livingston during their 10 day Sicily itinerary!

Check rates & book your stay at Hotel Livingston!

Val di Noto: 2 Days

Sicily’s Val di Noto is littered with stunning Baroque towns, rolling hills, lovely wine country, and some of the best chocolate in the world–in other words, it’s definitely a place that belongs on your 10 days in Sicily itinerary.

What to Do in the Val di Noto

Hop between the beautiful baroque towns..

Eight of the towns in the Val di Noto are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their incredible Baroque architecture: Ragusa, Modica, Noto, Scicli, Palazzo Acreide, Caltagirone, Militello in Val di Catania, and finally, Catania itself.

Obviously, that is a bit much to cover with just 2 days of your trip to Sicily.

We recommend prioritizing Ragusa, Noto, Modica, and if you have time, Scicli.

Admire views of Ragusa Ilba.

Beautiful Ragusa is divided into two sections: Ragusa Superiore (the upper town) and Ragusa Ilba (the lower town).

The views of Ragusa Ilba looking down from Ragusa Superiore may just be some of the best views in this entire Sicily itinerary, which is really saying something!

Snack on chocolate in Modica.

The beautiful town of Modica is world-famous for its chocolate, which boasts a recipe that originally hails from none other than the Aztecs.

The chocolate is created with “cold processing”, giving it a characteristic grainy texture, inconsistent color, and delicious taste.

Val di Noto Travel Tips

Choose where to stay carefully..

Think about your travel style when you choose where to stay in the Val di Noto: do you want to be the heart of the action? Do you want to be able to do plenty of sightseeing without driving? Would you prefer a countryside stay so that you can easily come and go without worrying about parking or driving through a town to do so?

Personally, we chose to stay in Ragusa for its relative popularity and central location and were very happy with the choice.

Don’t try to see more than 1-2 towns a day.

The Baroque towns of the Val di Noto may look very close together on a map, but add in small, winding roads, the hassles of finding a place to park and making your way (often uphill) to the picturesque town centers, and the delights of savoring each spot, and it’s definitely best to limit your movements when possible.

We recommend sticking to seeing 1-2 towns per day in this section of your Sicily road trip itinerary.

Where to Stay in Val di Noto

For the sake of simplicity, we’ve outlined a few well-reviewed places to stay in Ragusa here, but staying somewhere like Modica or Noto will also easily work with this 10 day Sicily itinerary!

SanVito Hostel — With excellent reviews, a prime location in Ragusa near Piazza San Giovanni, an included breakfast, and a gorgeous terrace offering panoramic views of the Val di Noto, SanVito Hostel is a phenomenal option for budget travelers during their Sicily road trip.

Check rates & book your stay at SanVito Hostel!

Hotel Il Barocco — Cozy and comfortable, this small hotel is located in a 19th-century building in central Ragusa, making it the perfect launching pad for your sightseeing. With excellent reviews and a fabulous included breakfast, Hotel Il Barocco is a reliable choice in Ragusa for your Sicily vacation.

Check rates & book your stay at Hotel Il Barocco!

San Giorgio Palace — Located in the heart of Ragusa Ilba, popular San Giorgio Palace boasts very spacious rooms, as well as modern decor and amenities (including a very well-reviewed included breakfast) in a picture-perfect setting, with some rooms that overlook the valley.

Check rates & book your stay at San Giorgio Palace!

If you’re lucky enough to have more than 10 days in Sicily–or you just prefer an even more fast-paced Sicily road trip–there are plenty more incredible places to visit in Sicily to add to your list!

Here are a few more beautiful places to see in Sicily that you might want to add to your itinerary.

The ancient Valley of the Temples outside of Agrigento is undoubtedly one of the best places to visit in Sicily.

Once a thriving Ancient Greek city, these ruins are remarkably well-preserved and far less crowded than many better-known Greek ruins throughout Europe.

Located just outside of Palermo, Mondello is best known today for its long stretch of beach, which is one of the most popular places for beach days for both tourists and locals who are staying in Palermo.

This laid-back beach town is perfect for kicking back and enjoying long stretches of sandy beach–in fact, if you want a little more swimming to be included on your Sicily vacation beyond what’s outlined in this 10 day Sicily itinerary, you can even add a quick stop in Avola during your drive from Syracuse to the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto.

Aeolian Islands

Also sometimes called the Lipari Islands, this stunning volcanic island chain is a UNESCO World Heritage site and boasts some of the most magnificent sea views in all of Sicily (which is, as you can imagine, very high praise).

Located in the shadow of Mount Etna, Catania is Sicily’s second-largest city and second airport hub–you’ll likely fly into and out of either Palermo or Catania (in fact, for this Sicily road trip itinerary it’s easiest to fly into Palermo and out of Catania if you can swing it).

Though Catania is far from Sicily’s most popular tourist attraction, it’s definitely worth a bit of exploring if you happen to be passing through!

Take This Map With You! Click each highlight to pull up the name of the destination. To save this map to “Your Places” on Google Maps, click the star to the right of the title. You’ll then be able to find it under the Maps tab of your Google Maps account! To open the map in a new window, click the button on the top right of the map.

Driving in Sicily truly deserves its own post, but here are some essential tips to know before embarking on your Sicily road trip!

Shop around for your rental car.

There are dozens of rental car companies operating in Sicily, all with their own prices and rental agreements. We recommend shopping through Discover Cars in order to search through multiple companies at once.

Not only will you be able to compare prices easily, but you’ll also be able to compare rental inclusions (like insurance, kilometers allotted, etc.), which we found varied dramatically among different rental car companies in Sicily!

Price Sicily rental cars with Discover Cars today!

The driving honestly isn’t as bad as it is portrayed… but it’s not easy.

There’s no way around it: driving in Sicily has a pretty terrible reputation.

However, ultimately, we walked away feeling that driving in Sicily was easier than expected–but we fully admit this impression is likely partially because of how nervous we were about doing it.

The major roads in Sicily are perfectly well maintained–smaller roads, not so much, so beware of potholes. City driving is the trickiest while traveling between cities on major highways is fairly simple.

Drivers can be a bit aggressive, yes, but we wouldn’t say they were drastically more aggressive than in, say, Tuscany.

As much as Sicily has a reputation for being its own world, particularly when it comes to driving, driving in Sicily felt pretty much like driving anywhere else in Italy (which is, admittedly, a harder place to drive than some).

Bear in mind that we are coming at this from the perspective of people who drove daily for nearly a decade and have road-tripped through many countries, including Italy, before. You do need to be a confident, well-practiced driver to comfortably drive in Sicily.

Taking a Sicily road trip if driving makes you anxious, you’re out of practice, you don’t like to drive, or you’ve never driven outside your home country is likely not the best idea.

Also–this is not the place to learn to drive a manual. Unless you are very confident with one, we recommend paying extra for an automatic transmission.

… But be sure you have insurance (preferably with no deductible/excess).

We didn’t incur any damage to our rental car in Sicily… but when we dropped it off, both rentals parked on either side of us had huge dents in them!

Due to the aggressive driving, small roads, and distances covered on this Sicily road trip, we’d recommend purchasing insurance with no deductible/excess for the time it takes you to work through this 10 day Sicily itinerary–it’s simply one less thing to worry about on the road.

Rent the smallest car you can manage.

Tiny roads. Cramped historic centers. Parking lots where cars are parked a mere inch apart (and the lines denoting where the parking places should be seen as mere suggestions at best–people park over them regularly).

Truly, renting a big car in Sicily is a liability, not a benefit. 

We recommend renting the tiniest car you can squeeze your group + luggage into. If the rental desk suggests an upgrade? Turn it down.

Carry lots of coins.

You will pay tolls when driving in Sicily, especially in northern half of the island, so come prepared with a cupholder full of Euros.

Don’t underestimate the time it takes to drive between destinations.

There were days that we pulled into our hotel’s parking space exactly when Google Maps said that we would–and days (like the day we had to catch a flight) that we ended up way behind schedule due to road work and an unfortunate accident that we got stuck behind.

Definitely leave yourself plenty of extra time on days that you have somewhere to be at a specific time!

July and August are peak tourism season in Sicily, and while the beaches will be warm and the sun shining, it’s best to avoid taking your Sicily road trip during those months if you hope to avoid peak crowds and prices.

Luckily, Sicily is characterized by its brilliant weather that allows for swimming over nearly half the year! 

Personally, we’d recommend aiming for a September or early October trip to Sicily if you hope to swim your heart out, and a late April or May trip if you want to avoid the worst of the heat and crowds while still thawing out after a long winter.

Over the winter, lots of small, tourist-focused businesses close and the island, especially in smaller towns, quiets down significantly–but if a slow-paced, off-season 10 days in Sicily itinerary sounds right up your alley, you’ll certainly find plenty of peaceful spots to savor.

Travel Insurance — We don’t ever suggest traveling without travel insurance–anything can happen, and a fast-paced Sicily road trip is definitely better a case of safe than sorry. We use and recommend Safety Wing  for trips to Italy.

Cell Phone Holder — This is especially important if you don’t have a reliable co-pilot: the last thing you want to do is be fumbling with the GPS on your phone during your Sicily road trip. Pack a cell phone holder to attach to the car and you’ll be able to drive much more safely!

Additional Car Insurance — Whether you purchase a policy with World Nomads that covers car rental (only some of theirs do, so double-check!), purchase a policy through the rental car company, or something else, be sure you have coverage: in Sicily, it’s worth the peace of mine.

International Driving Permit — If you’re coming from outside the EU and plan to rent a car in Sicily, you’ll need to make sure to acquire an International Driving Permit in your home country, before coming to Italy. It is required for all car rentals in Italy, and while the rental company may not ask, it’s not worth the risk of being refused a car once you arrive or getting a fine if you’re pulled over to be without one. 

Comfortable Day Bag  — We currently use  Pacsafe’s sleek anti-theft backpack  and love it, but if you don’t want to shell out the cash for this trip, that’s totally understandable. Just aim for something comfortable to wear, not flashy, and medium-sized–we used a  Northface Jester backpack  for years and loved it as well.

About Kate Storm

In May 2016, I left my suburban life in the USA and became a full-time traveler. Since then, I have visited 50+ countries on 5 continents and lived in Portugal, developing a special love of traveling in Europe (especially Italy) along the way. Today, along with my husband Jeremy and dog Ranger, I’m working toward my eventual goal of splitting my life between Europe and the USA.

9 thoughts on “The Ultimate Sicily Road Trip: An Epic 10 Days in Sicily Itinerary”

From someone who has family and typically visits for +30 days every other year, you did a very nice job with the article….many, many other wonder ful places to see and things to experience on the island, and the Eolian, and Egadi…..

Thanks Anthony! We can’t wait to make it back and explore more of Sicily.

Oh waooo Its amazing to know these valuable Information provided by you. Next month we have plan to visit Sicily and these information will be very helpfull. Thank you

Happy to hear that, Josef! Hope you guys have a great time in Sicily. 🙂

Wow! That was a very helpful article! I am bookmarking it multiple places so I don’t lose it before our trip in June. Thank you so much for your great tips and very practical advice.

Thanks, Vrinda! Hope you guys have a blast in Sicily!

Quiet a lot of information . One question if not interested in driving then the other options .

You definitely can visit Sicily without a car, but it’s a bit trickier than up on the mainland where there’s more train service.

Essentially, without a car your options are to stick with one town or city as a base and use guided tours to visit more rural areas, cobble together an itinerary with train and bus service (doable, but not as simple as in, say, Florence), or sign up for a full multi-day guided tour of Sicily.

Personally the first option falls most in line with how we tend to travel. Taormina is one of the most popular bases for a trip like that, as many cruise ships stop there and there are lots of options for guided tours to Mount Etna, wine country, etc.

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Sicily Road Trip: Plan The Ultimate 14 Day Sicily Itinerary 

01 apr 2024 25 jan 2024 | dan.

Big scenery, epic history, rich culture, amazing food and wine: this is road tripping at its very best. In this post, we share our ideal 14 Day Sicily Itinerary, taking in the top attractions right across the island for a Sicily road trip you won’t soon forget.  

Tucked off the tip of Italy’s boot, the island of Sicily has been luring people to her shores at the crossroads of the Mediterranean Sea for millennia.  

Throughout the ages, waves of people – Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, the list goes on – have all added their cultural spice to Sicily’s great mortar pot, creating the rich and vibrant society that exists today. They’ve also left an extraordinary legacy of living traditions, amazing historic sites and delicious flavours. 

Add to the mix golden sandy beaches and offshore isles lapped by azure seas, rustic villages where life goes on much as it has forever, beautiful Baroque cities and medieval old towns, monumental ancient temples, six World Heritage areas (with multiple sites to visit), sweeping mountains and valleys, and two of the world’s most active volcanoes. It’s little wonder Sicily continues to draw people from around the world today.  

For us, Sicily encapsulates everything we love about road tripping: roads through big, beautiful landscapes, layers of visible history, a vivid cultural scene and, best of all, pasta and vino!  

We came not knowing quite what to expect. We left knowing we have to come back. 

Our own Sicily road trip was just shy of two weeks and we loved it. With hindsight though, there are things we would do differently if we did the trip again.  

This is the result: a curated 2 week Sicily itinerary that takes on board our own learnings and experiences of exploring and driving in Sicily, and showcases the very best highlights around the island.  

Sicily Road Trip Snapshot Start & Finish: Palermo, Sicily  Distance: If you do everything in this itinerary, you’ll travel around 1,300km (810 miles) give or take; more if you do some of the suggested extra activities.   How long does it take? This is a self-drive 14 Day Sicily itinerary. See further on for our suggestions if you have less time or more time . Overnight stops: 3 nights in Palermo, 2 nights in Trapani, 1 night in Agrigento, 4 nights in Syracuse, 2 nights in Taormina and 1 night in Cefalù.   

What’s in this post?

Planning a Sicily Road Trip Getting to Sicily What’s the route? Best time to visit Sicily Where to stay in Sicily Driving in Sicily 14 Day Sicily Road Trip Itinerary Day 1 – Arrive Palermo Day 2 – Palermo Day 3 – Palermo Day 4 – Trapani via Segesta & Erice Day 5 – Trapani Day 6 – Selinunte & Agrigento Valley of the Temples Day 7 – Syracuse via Villa Romana del Casale Day 8 – Syracuse Day 9 – Day trip to Ragusa & Noto Day 10 – Day trip to Catania Day 11 – Taormina Day 12 – Day trip to Mount Etna Day 13 – Cefalù Day 14 – Depart Palermo

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Planning a Sicily Road Trip

Getting to sicily.

Our Sicily travel itinerary starts and finishes in the city of Palermo on the island’s north-west coast. You can fly direct to Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino Airport (also known as Punta Raisi) from various cities in Italy and other parts of Europe.   

As this is a looping itinerary, you could also fly into Catania in the east, or Trapani in the west, and set out from either of those cities. 

Alternatively, if you’re travelling by car from mainland Italy, you can take the 30-minute car ferry from Reggio Calabria in Italy’s south-west to the Sicilian port city of Messina on the island’s north-east, and make Taormina your starting point. 

What’s the route?

If you road trip Sicily with this itinerary, you’ll start with a couple of days in Palermo. From there, you’ll travel in an anti-clockwise loop around the island, finishing back in Palermo (for alternative start and finish points, take a look at the ‘Getting to Sicily’ section above).  

En route, you’ll experience the very best of Sicily’s natural, cultural and historic highlights: a mezze of charming villages, time capsule cities, ancient places, World Heritage sites, sensational food, and epic mountain and coastal scenery, including Mount Etna, one of the world’s most active volcanos.  

Is two weeks in Sicily enough for a whole-island road trip?   Two weeks is the very minimum we would recommend for an itinerary in Sicily that takes in the main sites and attractions across the island. This is, after all, the largest island in the Mediterranean. Our road trip covers a lot of ground, but we make up for the car stints with plenty of sightseeing and getting out and about.   Also, while Sicily has many lovely beaches, we should note that we haven’t included beach time in this itinerary (we’d personally rather explore a medieval town). If you’re keen for some sea and sand, there are opportunities along the way to swap out some activities with time on the beach. If you have less than two weeks in Sicily , we recommend you focus your road trip on either the east side of the island (Syracuse, Catania, Taormina and Etna) or the west side (Palermo, Trapani and Agrigento).   If you have more than two weeks , you can slow the pace and add some down time, beach time, or more activities along the way. Some of the things we’d do with more time include:  > Exploring Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve and San Vito Lo Capo in north western Sicily.  > Sailing out to the Aeolina Islands, an archipelago including Lipari and the active volcano, Stromboli.  > Visiting the Egadi Islands of Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo off Trapani.  > Spending more time exploring the Baroque cities of the Val di Noto . 

Best time to visit Sicily

Sicily sits at the heart of the Mediterranean, which means hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters.  

Like many places around the Med, summer sees a rush on Sicily’s coastal towns and beaches, and prices reflect it. We’re not big fans of high heat or crowded sites so we would personally steer clear of Sicily over the peak months of July to September, as well as holiday periods like Easter.   

During winter, the temps drop, it gets quiet and you’ll find many sites, restaurants and activities have shorter hours or close down entirely. You won’t find much happening outside of the major towns.  

Based on our personal experience of road tripping Sicily in April plus some research, the shoulder periods of April to June and October seem to be the best times of year to travel as the weather is milder but it’s still not too busy.  

Where to stay in Sicily

It’s easy with a big itinerary like this to wind up staying in a different town every night. When we’re road tripping though, our preference is to find a place we can stay for a couple of days and use that as a base for day trips in the car.  

It means we can settle into our stay, get a little familiar with the place, and we don’t have to stress about leaving luggage in the car while we’re out sightseeing.  

All of the overnight stops in this Sicily itinerary are in cities or decent-sized towns with a range of accommodation to suit various budgets and travel styles. As you’ll be self-driving, you’ll want to look for places to stay with parking on-site or nearby.

We recommend you arrange your accommodation before you visit, especially if you’re heading to Sicily during a peak period.  

Sorting out accommodation and parking in advance also means far less hassle on arrival, particularly if you’re planning to stay in the historic centre of a town – many of Sicily’s historic centres have restricted traffic zones, meaning you can’t drive your car into them (read more about these in the ‘Driving in Sicily’ section below).

You can book accommodation for Sicily through all major booking engines. For this trip, we booked our accommodation through Booking.com .   

Driving in Sicily

Having driven extensively on the Italian mainland, and having also read plenty of disconcerting reports, it’s fair to say we were a little apprehensive about driving in Sicily. As we were told on more than one occasion, ‘road rules are more like suggestions’ here.  

That said, once you get to grips with the ‘every person for themselves’ mentality on the road, navigating the local approach to driving becomes much easier. Just be ready for it, and drive defensively.   

Unless you’re driving your own car over from mainland Italy, you’ll need a hire car for this trip. We’ve found Rental Cars has a great range of cars and competitive prices but we also suggest checking Discover Cars to find the best deal you can.

In the meantime, here are some key considerations when you’re planning to road trip Sicily: 

> Book your car rental in advance : This goes for every place, but booking your hire car well before you go means you can wrangle a better deal, and that can make a big difference in this post-Covid era of high car rental costs. Go for a smaller car too if you can: you’ll thank us the first time you try to park it or drive down a village laneway.

If you follow this itinerary, you won’t need a hire car until Day 4 as you’ll be spending your first couple of days exploring the city of Palermo.  

> Download offline Google maps for Sicily : That way you’ll have GPS navigation even if you don’t have internet. Also, bring a car charger for your phone.  

> There are two toll roads on the island, the A18 and the A20 : If you end up on one, you’ll pass a ticket booth. Don’t drive through the raised barrier without taking a ticket. At the end of the toll road, there’ll be another ticket booth where you present the ticket and pay. On approach, keep an eye out for the cash and card lanes and avoid the Telepass (etag) lanes. 

> Avoid driving in the Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL) : You’ll encounter these limited traffic zones in most historic town centres across Sicily. Every entrance to a ZTL will be marked by a sign showing a red circle with a white centre. Some signs may indicate certain hours that the ZTL is active. We found it’s generally safer to just assume they’re always active and avoid them. You will be fined if you drive into a ZTL without a permit. 

>   Plan your parking : To be honest, when you’re road tripping anywhere, but especially in places like Sicily, finding parking can make or break your day. You’ll save a whole lot of time and stress if you work out where you’re going to park before you visit a place. John is religious about this and always marks up several parking options on Google maps before we set out. It makes a massive difference. Have a backup or two just in case your first choice is full. 

• Carparks and street parking : Many towns have dedicated carparks or parking garages, called parcheggios . These are usually paid car spaces.
• Street parking : You’ll often see parking spaces on the street or in car parks marked with blue, white and yellow lines. You can park for a fee in parking spaces marked with blue lines. Check the signs as sometimes hours of operation apply. White lines mean either free parking or residents parking. Again, check signs before parking in white line spaces as you’ll be fined if you park in residents parking without a permit. Yellow lines are disabled parking spaces.  
• Parking when visiting ZTLs : When visiting any town with a historic centre, find the nearest car park outside the old town and walk in. If your accommodation is located within a ZTL, ask your accommodation provider for their advice on where to park. 
• Factor daily parking costs into your trip budget : You will be up for parking costs on a daily basis throughout this trip, with fees ranging from a couple of euros for a couple of hours to €20+ for overnight parking in some places.

> Don’t leave valuables in your car : This is common sense and a general rule of thumb. Sometimes it’s unavoidable though. In those cases, have everything you need ready to go with you in the car before you arrive somewhere (including valuables like passports), so you don’t need to open the car boot. Make sure everything else is tucked away out of sight and the car is locked.  

14 Day Sicily Road Trip Itinerary

Day 1 – arrive palermo.

Highlights: Evening in Palermo’s Historic Centre (Centro Storico) Total driving distance: No driving today. As you’ll be visiting Palermo over the next couple of days, save on car hire fees and collect your hire car from the airport on the morning of Day 4.       Total driving time: No driving today . Overnight: Palermo

Palermo is the largest city in Sicily and the island’s capital. A port city since ancient times, Palermo’s architecture, culture and cuisine have evolved with a distinct imprint of the diverse civilisations that have conquered and ruled here. You’ll notice Arab and Norman influences, along with Byzantine, Lombard, French and others. 

Palermo is also home to the ‘Arab-Norman Palermo’ World Heritage area, which includes seven sites across the city, plus the cathedrals at Cefalù and Monreale. You’ll have a chance to visit some of Palermo’s sites over the coming days.      

Travelling from the airport to Palermo

You can get from Palermo Airport to the city by bus, train and taxi.  

The shuttle bus is a comfortable, low-cost option. The bus company is called Prestia e Comandé and the journey from the airport to Palermo Central Station takes around 45 minutes to an hour. You can buy tickets here .

The train from Palermo Aeroporto station to Palermo Centrale station is also a low-cost option and takes between 35 minutes and an hour depending on the service. You can find timetables and buy tickets in advance via Trainline .

Taxis unfortunately have a bad rap in Palermo, with travellers often complaining of being scammed or overcharged. Uber Black launched in 2022 but is apparently expensive. There is no UberX.  

Benvenuti in Sicilia!  

Welcome to Sicily! Today is about arriving, settling into your accommodation, and getting ready to explore Palermo and road trip Sicily.  

Tonight, head to one of Palermo’s ambient squares, such as Piazza Olivella or Piazza Sant’Anna , for a wine or aperitivo, and plates of local Palermo specialities like arancini (rice balls) and pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines).  

Where to stay in Palermo  

As the next couple of days are all about Palermo’s highlights (and you don’t have to worry about parking just yet), we suggest staying in or near Palermo’s historic centre, the Centro Storico . There are several districts in this area, including Castellamare, La Kalsa, Il Capo and Albergheria/Ballarò. The major attractions are around here, along with plenty of bars and restaurants.  

Palermo is a big city with all the diversity of accommodation options that brings. The following suggested options are all in and around the Centro Storico and get great reviews: 

• Good value: Bed and Breakfast D’Angelo  
• Mid-range: Ballarooms B&B Palermo Centro  
• Spend a bit more: Palazzo Santamarino Luxury Suite and Spa  

Sicily’s north west corner When we travelled, we stayed more than an hour away from Palermo in the village of Scopello and used this as a base. Our stay, Hotel La Tavernetta , was a real treat for us – it’s a lovely place with gorgeous coastal views. With hindsight though, we feel it would be more convenient to stay in or close to Palermo, at least for the first couple of days of this itinerary. Scopello is actually the gateway to Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve , famed for its secluded beaches, rugged mountain scenery, walking and birding opportunities.   Lo Zingaro stretches away to the north and the town San Vito Lo Capo , which is said to be home to one of Sicily’s most beautiful beaches.   Sadly, we didn’t have time to explore this area when we visited and we haven’t included it in this itinerary. But if you have more than 2 weeks in Sicily , this is definitely an area worth devoting a couple of days to. Alternatively, if nature calls to you more loudly than towns, then you could swap out the days in Trapani for time here instead. 

Day 2 – Palermo

Highlights: Palermo’s Centro Storico Total driving distance: No driving today. Pick up your hire car from Palermo Airport on the morning of Day 4.   Total driving time: No driving today . Overnight: Palermo

Today is a packed day of sightseeing in Palermo.  

We love to get oriented in new places by joining a guided walking tour. A city tour will introduce you to some of Palermo’s top spots, give you an overview of the city’s rich history, and help you narrow down where you’d like to spend more time. 

Here’s one guided walking tour option but there’s also a range of themed tours you can take in Palermo, covering everything from the city highlights and World Heritage sites to street food and Palermo’s anti-mafia movement.

While you’re here, don’t miss the Palazzo dei Normanni (also known as the Royal Palace) and its exquisitely beautiful Palatine Chapel . Other must-sees are Palermo Cathedral (head to the roof for great views), the Byzantine mosaic masterpieces at the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio , and the Arab-Norman Church of San Cataldo right next door.   

Also nearby is the 16th-century Fontana Pretoria , better known as the ‘Fountain of Shame’ on account of its marble nudes. The monastic neighbours of the day were apparently unamused. 

Day 3 – Palermo

Highlights: Markets | Teatro Massimo | Capuchin Catacombs | Monreale Cathedral Total driving distance: No driving today. You’ll pick up your hire car from Palermo Airport tomorrow morning.   Total driving time: No driving today. Overnight: Palermo

Start today by immersing in the bustle of one of Palermo’s outdoor markets . These are a legacy of the city’s 9th century days under Arab rule as the capital of the Emirate of Sicily. There’s a market in each of the city’s four historic quarters. The most popular for tourists is Mercato di Ballarò . The markets are open daily except Sunday and they’re most buzzy in the mornings. As with all markets and busy places, watch your pockets and keep your valuables close.

After the markets, maybe join a tour of the ornate Teatro Massimo , the third largest theatre in Europe. There’s also the morbidly fascinating Capuchin Catacombs , where thousands of mummified bodies line the walls. 

If you’re a World Heritage seeker like us, consider an afternoon trip to the World Heritage Monreale Cathedral . Take bus 389 from Piazza Indipendenza, behind the Palazzo dei Normanni and time your arrival for when the Cathedral reopens after lunch at 2pm (Sundays it’s only open in the afternoon).  

Day 4 – Trapani via Segesta & Erice  

Highlights: Segesta Archaeological Park | Erice ‘s medieval streets and views | Dinner in Trapani Total driving distance: appx. 115km (71 miles)   Total driving time: appx. 2 hours Overnight: Trapani

Pick up your hire car from Palermo Airport

Our Sicily road trip starts in earnest today and we recommend an early start. Get the shuttle bus back to Palermo Airport and head to the arrivals hall where the car rental companies are located.  

Remember to arrange your car hire well in advance to get a good deal. Check out Rental Cars and Discover Cars to find the right option for you.

Once you have your hire car, set a course for Segesta Archaeological Park . It’s a drive of around 35-40 minutes from the airport. 

Morning at Segesta Archaeological Park

The extraordinary Doric Temple of Segesta is one of the best-preserved temples of its kind in the world. So we were surprised to learn it’s not a World Heritage site. However that fact, along with its location in a remote mountainous setting, probably explains why it’s a little less busy than some of Sicily’s other ancient sites. 

There’s a paid park-and-ride system in place here, so once you’ve found a parking spot and bought a ticket, take the shuttle bus up to the temple. The site opens from 9am and the shuttle buses run every 15 minutes or so. 

There’s also a stunningly-sited Greco-Roman Theatre nearby, tucked into the summit of Mount Barbaro and overlooking the Gulf of Castellamare. It’s also accessible by shuttle from the parking area, or you can hike up to it in around 30 minutes.  

Afternoon in Erice  

Back in the car, set the GPS for Erice, a drive of around 45 minutes. 

Charming Erice is a medieval hill town overlooking the coastal city of Trapani. The switchback drive up the 750-metre-high mountain is an experience in itself! 

At the top, there are several paid parking areas located near the town’s gates, which served as the guarded entry points for the once-walled city.  

Erice is a compact town of cobblestone streets and pretty plazas made for meandering. Its long history is still evident in the remains of fortifications and architecture from Elymian and Phoenician through to Norman and more recent times.  

Check out the 12th century Castello di Venere (it’s currently closed but the sight of the fortress itself and its commanding views make this a highlight). Tucked into the mountain below the castle is the 19th century mini-fort, Torretta Pepoli . Also near the castle is the Garden of Balio , a peaceful place to pause.  

Erice has dozens and dozens of churches. In fact, there are so many there’s a cost-saving ‘Church Ticket’ if you’re planning to visit more than one with paid entry. If one is enough and you don’t know which to choose, we recommend the cathedral, Real Duomo .  

Don’t leave Erice without sampling some of its tasty almond pastries. You’ll find pastry shops ( pasticceria ) throughout the town, but most people make a beeline for Pasticceria Maria Grammatico , an institution since 1950. 

Lastly, views. Half the fun of wandering Erice is stumbling upon its many epic viewpoints . If you can, time your visit so that you’re there late afternoon as the sun drops and bathes the whole coast in a golden glow.

Kisses of Venus Crowning a mountaintop as it does, Erice is prone to an occasional foggy embrace. Locals charmingly call it ‘kisses of Venus’, but those kisses are a literal scene stealer. Once the cloud moves in, the views disappear. The fog may pass quickly but it can also hang around. If your visit to Erice looks to be under threat of weather or settled cloud, consider swapping your visit to tomorrow morning.

Evening in Trapani    

You can stay overnight in Erice, but it can get pretty quiet in the evenings, particularly out of peak season. For this reason, you might want to consider heading back down the mountain and spending the night in Trapani, where there are more accommodation options. 

Trapani is around 25-30 minutes from Erice. Once you’ve checked into your accommodation, head out for a wander and dinner. Via Garibaldi and Corso Vittorio Emanuele , which are among the city’s oldest streets, are particularly lovely for an evening meander. If you time it right, you may find yourself among throngs of locals out enjoying the very Italian tradition of passeggiatta (a leisurely evening stroll) with their family and friends. 

Trapani has been a fishing town for about as long as people have lived here, so you’re guaranteed to find a sensational seafood dinner tonight. Maybe try a steaming bowl of fish couscous; it’s the town’s most famed dish.  

Where to stay in Trapani  

Trapani’s historic centre is the more ambient part of the city to stay in, but prices are generally a bit higher and you’ll need to park outside of the ZTL and walk in. There’s a large paid car park at Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele. Some suggested Trapani accommodations with great reviews include: 

• Good value: Appartamento Scarlatti  
• Mid-range: Enea Apartment  
• Spend a bit more: Dimora Botteghelle  

Day 5 – Trapani

Highlights: Trapani’s Centro Storico | Trapani Salt Pans Total driving distance: 16km (10 miles) return if visiting the Salt Museum and surrounds Total driving time: appx. 30 minutes Overnight: Trapani

Morning and early afternoon in Trapani  

The coastal town of Trapani is the launchpad to some fantastic west Sicily adventures, like the Egadi Islands and Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve. But….these adventures will have to wait for your next Sicily trip. This morning, we’re exploring Trapani’s old town, the Centro Storico .  

Start with an early morning visit to the local fish market, Mercato del Pesce . Then wander out along the spit to the coastal watchtower, Torre di Ligny , for views back towards the city.  

Next, enjoy a stroll around the narrow streets of the Centro Storico . Along the way, check out the Cathedral of San Lorenzo , the Baroque Church of the Holy Souls in Purgatory , and the Palazzo Senatorio .  

Also keep an eye out (and up) for the astrological clock on the city’s oldest gate, the Porta Oscura e Torre Dell’Orologio , next to Palazzo Senatorio. 

Late afternoon at the Trapani Salt Pans   

Later today, jump in the car and head south around 10 minutes to the Museo del Sale near the village of Nubia. This small museum with a 17th century windmill tells the story of the ancient salt pans stretching south from here to Marsala.

You can visit the salt pans independently or join one of the museum’s guided tours to learn about the long and sometimes spicy history of ’white gold’ production in western Sicily. Ancient traditions are still used in the salt extraction today.  

Afterwards, have a wander among the surrounding salt pans. The museum usually closes around 7pm but check in advance. 

If you don’t feel like driving, here’s a guided tour of the salt pans departing from Trapani.

If you’re making your own way though, we reckon a lovely way to finish today would be to hit up one of the restaurants or bars along the stretch of coast here and enjoy an aperitivo, or perhaps dinner, as the sun sets over the sea. Something we wish we’d done!

Day 6 – Selinunte & Agrigento

Highlights: Ancient Selinunte | Valley of the Temples Agrigento Total driving distance: appx. 185km (115 miles)   Total driving time: appx. 3 hours Overnight: Agrigento

Today we farewell Trapani and head south then east to visit two more of Sicily’s epic ancient temple sites.  

Vast Selinunte Archaeological Park is spectacularly located by the sea. Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples is World Heritage and one of the most majestic Greek temple complexes still standing today.  

This is a BIG day and if two large ancient sites sounds like too much, you could make a later start from Trapani this morning and head straight to Agrigento, skipping Selinunte. If you had to choose one, go with the World Heritage Valley of the Temples. 

Having said that, for us, Selinunte – off the beaten track and peacefully ambient – was a surprise highlight of our 2 weeks in Sicily so if you love history, we reckon it’s worth the effort to visit both. If you do, be ready for lots of walking – wear comfy shoes and sun protection. 

Morning at Selinunte Archaeological Park  

If you do plan to visit both sites today, we recommend being on the road by 8am at latest . There are a couple of routes from Trapani to Selinunte. The fastest route is inland and south via the the SS113 and takes around 1hr15. Or you can follow the SS115 via Marsala, which takes around 1hr30.

Selinunte was a thriving Greek colony from around the 7th century BC, set in a commanding location by the sea. Around 409BC, the Carthaginians invaded, killing most of Selinunte’s inhabitants and taking many away as slaves. The city never recovered and was totally destroyed 240 years later in the First Punic War. 

Despite its fall so long ago, there’s still plenty to see here, including the impressive Selinunte temples and acropolis (Temple E is the largest and best preserved), city wall remains, and the ruins of homes, shops and civic buildings.

What really struck us as we wandered the pathways here was the broken terracotta everywhere underfoot, and the giant piles of temple rubble. It really brought home the reality of Selinunte’s total destruction.  

Selinunte is open daily from 9am and closes at 5pm in winter and 7pm in summer. Allow around 3 hours here.

If you want to grab some lunch before heading on to Agrigento, there are a number of restaurants in Marinella, the town next door. 

Detour via Sicily‘s White Cliffs    If you’re making good time today, there’s a small detour you can make around 15-20 minutes before you reach Agrigento: the Scala dei Turchi , or Stairs of the Turks, a stunning stretch of gleaming white, meringue-like cliffs.      For some reason, this place completely eluded our radar when we were planning our Sicily road trip and we’re kicking ourselves. We’ve since learned though that after years of human impact, and for its long-term preservation, the Scala dei Turchi are no longer directly accessible.   However, you can still view the cliffs from lookouts such as the Belvedere Scala dei Turchi along Contrada Scavuzzo, or from Majata Beach . There’s free street-side parking if you can find it, or paid parking near Majata Beach.

Afternoon at Valley of the Temples, Agrigento

From Selinunte, the drive to Agrigento is an easy 1hr30 cruise along the SS115.

Agrigento was one of the most important cities of Magna Grecia (greater Greece) from the 6th century BC. To honour their gods, the people of the city built a number of imposing Doric temples along its southern edge in the 5th and 4th centuries BC.  

Like Selinunte, Agrigento was conquered over and over, before Rome sacked the city in 210BC. Yet somehow, despite pillage, earthquakes and the ravages of time, the temples here remain among the most impressive and best-preserved in the world.  

Ironically, the Valley of the Temples is on a ridge rather than in a valley. You’ll see some of the site’s temple columns rising above the landscape on the road approach to the archaeological area.  

We parked at Porta V along Viale Caduti di Marzabotto. As you’ll be coming from the south, this is the first parking area you’ll come across. This is a paid parking site with hourly rates and a maximum day rate. The ticket office is nearby.  

Agrigento Archaeological Park is huge and spreads out across western and eastern zones on either side of the Strada Provinciale 4, with a pedestrian overpass connecting the two zones. It’s around 2km from one end to the other and an electric shuttle bus runs between them, costing around €3.  

There are seven Doric-style temples to explore and they’re all worth visiting. The most complete and impressive is the Temple of Concordia in the eastern zone. In the western zone, the mostly ruined Temple of Dioscuri has a lovely backdrop of the surrounding valley and the city of Agrigento rising behind it. 

We were happy to wander the Valley of the Temples on our own, and there’s an official app with audio guides you can download. But if you’re interested in having a guide show you around, here’s a well-rated tour that also lets you skip the ticket queue. 

Aim to spend at least a couple of hours at the Valley of the Temples. If you can stretch your visit through sunset and into the evening, then definitely do – the setting sun makes the temples glow and they are beautifully lit up at night.  

The Valley of the Temples is open daily from 8.30am to 8pm, and till quite late during summer. Entry is free until 7pm on the first Sunday of the month. 

Where to stay in Agrigento

There are plenty of places to stay in Agrigento city itself, a 5 minute drive north of the Valley of the Temples. Check with your accommodation about parking though as there is a ZTL in the city’s historic centre. Here are some suggested Agrigento stays:  

• Good value: B&B Le Stanze Al Centro   
• Mid-range: B&B Sorahnia – Design House  
• Splash out: Villa Athena Resort  

We personally opted to stay around 5 minutes east of the Valley of the Temples in the suburb of Villaggio Mosè at the pleasant and reasonably-priced Villa Concordia , with secure parking facilities. This was well located for the ancient site, we just found the local eating options pretty limited. 

Day 7 – Syracuse via Villa Romana del Casale

Highlights: Villa Romana del Casale | Ortigia’s Cittá Vecchia Total driving distance: appx. 225-245km (140-152 miles)   Total driving time: appx. 3.25 hours Overnight: Syracuse

Today, we’re heading towards Syracuse on Sicily’s east coast. This will be your base for the next four nights as you explore this evocative and historic city, and day trip to three spectacular Baroque towns in the Val di Noto region: Ragusa, Noto and Catania.  

First stop this morning though is the extraordinary Villa Romana del Casale, a drive of around 1hr15.  

Morning at Villa Romana del Casale  

If you see one excavated ancient Roman villa in your lifetime, make it this one. While there are various theories about who owned this vast and lavish home on the slopes of Mount Mangone in the 4th century, whoever it was had some serious means.  

The Villa Romana del Casale has been designated World Heritage, in the main for its mosaic floors. No less than 3,500 square metres of mosaic masterpieces decorate the villa. Covered over time by mud from the mountain, they survived the ravages of invaders and the ages and today, they are considered among the best preserved and most beautiful in situ mosaics ever found . This is a must for your Sicily trip itinerary. 

All of the mosaics here wowed us, but we particularly loved the the Great Hunt mosaic . This 60-metre-long depiction of Romans hunting and capturing wild and exotic animals in Africa is truly epic, like an ancient tesserae version of a feature-length film. Also look out for the famous mosaic of bikini-clad women playing sport – an unexpected insight into the times. 

The Villa Romana del Casale is open daily from 9am to 5pm, and until 7pm during summer. There’s a car park on site that costs a couple of euros. Aim to spend around 2 hours here. 

We picked up some sandwiches from a local pasticceria before leaving Agrigento this morning. But if you want to stop for lunch after visiting the Villa, Trattoria La Ruota just 3 minutes up the road gets great reviews.

Leaving luggage in your car Villa Romana del Casale is one of several stops on this itinerary where you will be stopping to sightsee with luggage in your car. We generally try to avoid doing this as car break-ins are always a possibility, no matter where you are, and no one wants to spend their trip filing police reports, chasing insurance and buying new undies. If you don’t mind a bit of backtracking in some places, then you might prefer to drive to your accommodation, drop off your luggage and come back. This is not always an easy option though. Villa Romana, for example, is a long drive from both Agrigento and Syracuse. In these situations, we had everything important and valuable with us in our daypacks (which we carried with us), left nothing visible in the car and locked everything up tight. We had no issues throughout our trip. There are no guarantees in life though, all you can do is plan ahead, take precautions and have travel insurance!

Afternoon and evening in Ortigia, Syracuse  

From Villa Romana del Casale, set the GPS for Syracuse. The drive can take up to 2 hours depending on the route and traffic. 

The ancient city of Syracuse has a history spanning 3,000 years. Once the most powerful city state of Magna Graecia, it went on to become part of Rome and then capital of the Byzantine Empire in the 7th century. Along its journey to the present, it absorbed the weaves of various cultures from right around the Mediterranean. Today, Syracuse is a World Heritage site.    

The highlight of a visit to Syracuse is Ortigia Island . This tiny walled hamlet is Syracuse’s Cittá Vecchia , the Old City, and this is where the founding colony was established.  

Ortigia is beautifully Baroque and we really enjoyed just wandering the streets here. On this first afternoon, if you arrive in time, you might see if there’s a walking tour you can join. Or check out some of the city’s key highlights, like the Piazza Duomo and Syracuse Cathedral . There’s also the 6th century BC Temple of Apollo , said to be one of the oldest Greek temples in the world, and the ancient Fountain of Arethusa . 

Aim to be by the sea for a wander along the Lungomare Alfeo as the sun sets, then find somewhere for an aperitivo and dinner.  

Where to stay in Syracuse

Charming Ortigia is definitely the accommodation drawcard for Syracuse and there are lots of lovely, boutique stays around the island. There are also a couple of parcheggios on the island where you can park the car. Some suggested stays with great reviews on the island include: 

• Good value: B&B Vicolo IV   
• Mid-range: Aretusa Apartments  
• Spend a little more: La Vacanza Ortigia  

Alternatively, there are plenty of accommodation options in the area of Syracuse between Ortigia and Neapolis Archaeological Park. This is a handy part of town to stay as it’s about a 30 minute walk between the two spots.

There are also many lovely farm stays ( agriturismo ) around Syracuse if you’d prefer to stay out of town and drive in.

For our part, we chose to base ourselves around half an hour away in the coastal town of Avola, at a gorgeous bed and breakfast which is sadly not taking bookings at present. To be frank though, while Avola is a lovely place to visit, with hindsight we would have preferred to be based in Syracuse for this leg of our road trip and as such, that’s what we’ve recommended here. 

Day 8 – Syracuse

Highlights: Neapolis Archaeological Park | Ortigia’s Citta Vecchia Total driving distance: No driving today (unless you visit the Necropolis of Pantalica, an 80km (50 mile) round-trip)    Overnight: Syracuse

Morning at Neapolis Archaeological Park    

Of all the things to do in Syracuse, a couple of hours at this amazing open-air museum is a must. If it’s hot, we recommend a morning visit as there’s little shade. We visited in the afternoon and spent the whole time feeling like we were on the verge of spontaneous combustion.  

In Neapolis Archaeological Park, you’ll find some of the most important ruins of Syracuse’s Greco-Roman past, including a 2nd century Roman amphitheatre and a 5th century BC Greek theatre , Sicily’s biggest. Opera performances are held in the theatre between May and June each year. Check out the Instituto Nazionale del Dramma Antico website for what’s on if you’re in town at the right time.  

Our favourite site in the park was the Paradise Quarry (Latomie del Paradiso), with its epic ‘ Ear of Dionysius ’. You’ll immediately see why the artist Caravaggio gave this uniquely-shaped and acoustically-notable quarry cave its nickname. Also worth seeking out is the monumental Altar of Hieron , thought to have been dedicated to Zeus and used for the mass sacrifice of bulls. The park is open daily from 9am to 5.30pm. 

A 10-minute walk from the archaeological park is the Basilica and Catacombs of St John . If you missed the catacombs in Palermo, or if you just find catacombs eerily fascinating like we do, then consider joining one of the guided tours that depart from the ticket office throughout the day.

Afternoon and evening back in Ortigia      

Head back to Ortigia this afternoon to explore more of the island and its highlights. 

If you haven’t been to the cathedral, now’s the time. Also in the Piazza Duomo, you’ll find the Baroque-style Santa Lucia Alla Badia and the lavish, Rococo-style Palazzo Borgia del Casale .  

At the Piazza Archimede , there’s the Fountain of Diana . If you’re feeling peckish, swing by nearby Pasticceria Artale to sample some of their traditional sweet or savoury goodies. 

You could also explore Ortigia’s Jewish Quarter, the Giudeca , and the nearby Forte Vigliena for views. On the very tip of the island hulks the 13th century Castello Maniace , which can also be visited. 

As the sun drops, make your way back to the island’s west for aperitivo hour or head out along the jetty near the Fountain of Arethusa to watch the sun set before finding dinner.

Afternoon alternative: Necropolis of Pantalica   If you’re keen to stretch your legs and get outdoors, an alternative to more time in Ortigia this afternoon is a hike to the ancient Necropolis of Pantalica , with its 5,000 rock-cut tombs. Together with Syracuse, this is a World Heritage site.  We haven’t been here but we understand Pantalica can be reached by heading to the village of Ferla, around an hour from Syracuse. From Ferla, you drive a further 5km (3 miles) along the SR11 until you come to the Pantalica Information Office, where you can find out more about the site and get a map of the area.   Guided tours to Pantalica departing from Ferla can also be arranged for groups of up to four people.

Day 9 – Day trip to Ragusa & Noto  

Highlights: Medieval and Baroque Ragusa Ibla | Baroque Noto Total driving distance: appx. 185km (115 miles)   Total driving time: appx. 3 hours Overnight: Syracuse

The Val di Noto is a region in the south-east of Sicily encompassing eight cities collectively designated as World Heritage for their striking late Baroque architecture. The cities are Catania, Millitello Val di Catania, Caltagirone, Modica, Palazzolo Acreide, Scicli, Ragusa and Noto.

Today we’re visiting the last two of these beauties on a day trip from Syracuse. Tomorrow we visit Catania.

Morning in Ragusa        

Aim to start early today as there’s a lot of ground to cover. We opted to make today’s drive an anti-clockwise loop out of Syracuse rather than backtracking along the E45. So we travelled to Ragusa via the SP14 and SS194. At 1.5 hours, it takes 20 minutes longer than if you go via the E45 but you’ll be travelling in one direction with new scenery all day. 

Pretty Ragusa rises and falls in two defined areas separated by a ravine. There’s the lower ‘old town’ of Ragusa Ibla and the upper ‘new town’ of Ragusa Superiore .  

The city you see is the direct result of a catastrophic earthquake that devastated east Sicily in 1693. Many who survived the destruction moved out of the ruined town and built new homes in the higher area that is now Ragusa Superiore, while others stayed and rebuilt in the old town. Today Ragusa is a World Heritage blend of medieval and Baroque architecture.  

We managed to find free parking in a small carpark at the bottom end of Via Giusti, not far from Ragusa Ibla. There’s also a paid parking area nearby at Parcheggio Repubblica. We then spent most of the morning wandering the charming streets of Ibla between the Cathedral of San Giorgio and the Iblei Gardens .  

In the upper town, you’ll find another beautiful cathedral, Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista on Piazza San Giovanni . If you’re keen to know more about the history of Ragusa, a local museum, the Museo Archaeologico Ibleo di Ragusa, is a 5 minute walk from the cathedral.  

Aim to spend 3 to 4 hours in Ragusa. The town is also renowned for its food scene, so this is a great spot for a sit-down lunch before continuing on (and before the siesta shut down kicks in). If you prefer a quick bite, head to a bakery for Scaccia Ragusana , a delicious calzone-like stuffed flat bread. 

Many a visitor to Ragusa will make the pilgrimage up the 300-odd steps to the church at the top, Chiesa Delle Scale , for the pano views to be found up there. We ran out of time sadly, but there’s another, easier-to-reach rooftop view from the cathedral’s campanile.

Afternoon in Noto        

After lunch, make for the city of Noto. It’s around an hour’s drive east from Ragusa. 

Noto was also levelled by Sicily’s notorious earthquake of the late 17th century. A new town was raised over the destruction, styled in Sicilian Baroque, and this exceptional architectural time capsule is what you see today.  

Take the time to simply wander Noto’s streets and admire the city’s elaborate yet elegant architecture, starting at the city gateway, the Porta Reale and heading west along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele .   

Must-sees include the cathedral, Basilicia Cattedrale di San Nicolo , the Palazzo Ducezio opposite and the bell tower, Il Campanile di San Carlo (both of which offer superb views over the city), as well as the richly decorated theatre, Teatro Tina di Lorenzo . 

There are also a number of beautiful palazzos and churches to visit. We particularly liked Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata , Chiesa di San Domenica and Chiesa di San Carlo (which also serves up views from its upper levels).   

If you need a break, pull up a seat outside at Caffe Sicilia on Corso Vittorio Emanuele and order their famous granita cappuccino ghiacciato – granita is a must-try shaved ice Sicilian specialty that comes in a variety of flavours. This was exactly the afternoon pick-me-up we needed.

Also, if it’s a sunny day, it’s worth staying longer here to take in sunset. Noto’s buildings are clad with Noto Stone, a creamy mellow limestone that turns a rich honey colour under the last golden rays of the day.  

For dinner tonight, stay in Noto or make your way back to Syracuse. The drive is around 40 minutes. 

Day 10 – Day trip to Catania

Highlights: Catania’s Baroque Centro Storico Total driving distance: It’s not recommended to drive into Catania but if you do, the journey is appx. 140km return (87 miles)  Total driving time: appx. 1 hour 40 Overnight: Syracuse

Catania is Sicily’s buzzing second city, and the largest town in east Sicily. Having risen and fallen over and again in the shadow of mercurial Etna, Catania has come of age with a bit of a gritty edge. This, and a lack of time in our original itinerary in Sicily, led to us not visiting and with hindsight, we really wish we had. As such, we’ve included the city in this itinerary as a day trip from Syracuse.  

By all accounts, driving in Catania can be a stressful experience, with traffic, ZTLs, one-way streets and parking challenges. So why not leave the car today and take a train instead from Syracuse to Catania Centrale? The journey takes around 1hr15. 

With one day to play with, we would do what we usually do in a new city and seek out a walking tour like this one to introduce us to the city highlights and give us a historical and cultural introduction to the place.  

Catania’s old town – the Centro Storico – is another of the Val di Noto’s Baroque showpieces, but with a very local touch: these elaborate buildings were made with Etna’s own black lava stone.  

The city’s highlights are all located fairly close together and include the Piazza del Duomo with its Cathedral of Sant’Agata and lava stone Elephant Fountain . There’s also the Church of San Benedetto , Palazzo Biscari , the Teatro Romano and the smaller Roman Odeon next door, the triumphal Porta Garibaldi , Basilica della Collegiata and the Teatro Massimo Bellini .  

If you arrive early enough in the day, there’s the historic fish market to visit and, not far from there, Castello Ursino . For Ancient Rome diehards like us: if you wander up to Piazza Stesicoro , you can see a small section of Catania’s once-enormous amphitheatre. 

For lunch today, we’d be seeking out Catania’s own pasta specialty of eggplant and ricotta: Pasta alla Norma . Or considering a street food walking tour like this one if there’s time. Or both. We’re in Sicily, after all. 

Alternative to Catania Sightseeing   If a day of Catania sightseeing doesn’t appeal, there are loads of other things to do in and around Syracuse. Some of things we’ve got on our list for next time:    > Get to know the local vino on a winery tour (Nero D’Avola – yum!).  > Learn the art of Sicilian cooking with a cooking class.  > Get out on the water for a boat tour around Ortigia.  > Stretch your legs on the hike to the Necropolis of Pantalica.  Or simply enjoy some beach time at one of Syracuse’s sandy beaches, like San Lorenzo Beach or Fontane Bianche Beach.

Day 11 – Syracuse to Taormina

Highlights: Ortigia Market | Taormina Sightseeing Total driving distance: appx. 120km (75 miles)   Total driving time: appx. 1.5 hours Overnight: Taormina

Today we depart Syracuse and head north to the coastal town of Taormina. This will be your base for the next two nights. You’ll spend most of a day and an evening exploring this historic hilltop town, and the next day on the otherworldly slopes of Mount Etna.  

Early morning at Mercato di Ortigia        

Before checking out of your Syracuse accommodation this morning, take the opportunity (if you haven’t already) to visit the Mercato di Ortigia , the city’s famed street market.  

Just as it has been for hundreds of years, this vibrant market is open early six days a week (it’s closed Sundays), selling beautiful, fresh regional food. It runs until 2pm but is at its most bustling in the morning (and there are fewer tour groups). This is a great place to pick up some cured meats and cheeses, or some fresh sandwiches, for the day ahead. 

Rest of day and evening in Taormina          

The drive from Syracuse to Taormina is around 1.5 hours via the A18 and E45. There are tolls on this route.   

Taormina rises and falls over the slopes of Mount Tauro, overlooking a spectacular vista of azure sea and the hazy blue rise of Mount Etna.  

People have lived on this mountain for 2,500 years, but Taormina emerged on the historical stage around the 4th century BC as a Greek colony. It went on to become the Byzantine capital of Sicily before a run of invaders came along and left their mark. 

Taormina is considered by many to be Sicily’s most elegant city. It’s also considered to be one of Sicily’s most touristy and expensive towns, especially during the summer months.  

Don’t let that put you off though. It is a really charming place. And for us, taking in the incredible backdrop of Etna and the coast from the steps of the ancient Greek theatre made Taormina worthy of a visit all on its own!  

Once you’ve parked up, found your accommodation and dropped your bags, spend the rest of the day checking out the various things to do in Taormina. Start with a wander along Corso Umberto , the main thoroughfare through the town linking the historic gates of Porto Catania and Porto Messina .  

In addition to the drawcard 3rd century Greek theatre , highlights here include the chequerboard Piazza IX Aprile and Church of San Giuseppe , along with Taormina Cathedral , the medieval Palazzo Corvaja , and the gardens of the Villa Communale di Taormina . Also search out the beautifully decorated façades, doors and wrought iron balconies along Via Giardinazzo .  

If you fancy stretching your legs later in the day and seeking out some epic views, consider making the hour-long round-trip walk up the trail to the church at the top, Chiesa Madonna della Rocca . 

The beauty of staying at least one night in Taormina is the opportunity to experience the town after the crowds of day-trippers and tour groups have left. Now’s the time to really appreciate the charm of this historic city with a drink and dinner as twilight paints the sky pastel. 

Where to stay in Taormina

Taormina is the most expensive place for accommodation in our Sicily itinerary. Parking is also pricey but if you don’t mind forking out for a spot in one of the city’s carparks (there are four public paid parking areas, including the large Porta Catania which is the closest to Taormina’s main street), then you have plenty of upper mid-range to luxury options in and around the historic centre. 

For budget and lower mid-range accommodation, you’re better off looking outside of the historic centre, although there are a couple of hostels. You might also consider the areas below Mount Tauro, like Mazzarò, which has a cable car up to Taormina, and Giardini-Naxos, which has a bus running up to Taormina from Taormina-Giardini train station. There’s a cheaper carpark next to the train station as well. 

We stayed just near Taormina-Giardini station at the lovely B&B Sottocoperta and found this is an easy and hassle-free way to visit the city. We were also able to park on the street near the hotel for free. 

Some other suggested options are: 

• Budget-conscious: Hostel Taormina “Homstel”  
• Mid-range: B&B Floridia  
• Splash out: Villa Le Terrazze Charming Rooms  

Day 12 – Day trip to Mount Etna

Highlights: Mount Etna Tour Total driving distance: The return drive to Mount Etna is appx. 110km (70 miles) Total driving time: appx. 3 hours Overnight: Taormina

Mount Etna lords over the landscape of Sicily’s northeast. She’s the tallest and most active volcano in Europe and she’s been grumbling her discontent for tens of thousands of years. Recorded eruptions reach back as far as the 4th century BC. 

It goes without saying that Etna has had a monumental impact on the landscape, history and people of Sicily. For her efforts, the mountain has been designated a World Heritage site, and a two week Sicily road trip isn’t a fait accompli without engaging in some way with this history-shaping force of nature.  

There are plenty of companies running guided half-day and full-day tours of Mount Etna from Taormina, Catania and Syracuse, including bike tours and 5 to 6 hour hiking tours. In winter, you can also ski on the north and south sides of the mountain.  

It’s also entirely possible, and easy, to drive to Rifugio Sapienza – the launch pad for activities on the mountain – and join a tour from there. This is what we did, as we wanted the flexibility of driving ourselves so we could stop along the way and take in the staggering and surreal scenery.  

At Rifugio Sapienza, we purchased tickets for a cable car and 4×4 trip on the mountain. This involves a cable car ride up to 2,500 metres, where you board special off-road 4×4 trucks for a drive to 2,920 metres. Once there, a volcano guide takes the group on a guided walk through Etna’s cratered, otherworldly landscape. 

We organised the cable car and 4×4 on arrival but you can book a priority ticket here and skip the queue when you get there.  

On the recommendation of a local, we visited Etna in the morning as clouds tend to gather over the day. We had beautiful blue skies during our visit and it was quite warm on the drive up. Don’t be fooled though, even during the height of summer, it can get very cold up on Etna. Wear layers, bring a warm jacket, a hat, sunnies and wear closed walking or hiking shoes.  

Afternoon winery visit          

Etna has demonstrated her destructive side throughout history, but the mountain’s lava flows have also resulted in rich soil that has given rise to some excellent vino. While you can certainly sample the delicious flavours of the region in the restaurants of Taormina and Catania, if you love wine then it’s definitely worth dropping by a vineyard for a tasting.  

A vineyard visit and tasting in this area requires advance reservation, so book ahead if this is something you’re keen to do. There are MANY places to choose from but one vineyard you might consider, in the direction of Taormina, is Gambino Vini. It’s around an hour from Refugio Sapienza and 45 minutes from Taormina. Gambini reopens from 15 March 2024.

Day 13 – Cefalù

Highlights: La Rocca Hike | Cefalù’s Old Town Total driving distance: appx. 215km (135 miles)   Total driving time: appx. 2.5 hours Overnight: Cefalù   

Today is our last full day in Sicily before we complete our loop of the island and fly out of Palermo tomorrow. We suggest breaking up the long journey back to Palermo with a final stop today in the coastal city of Cefalù. It’s around 2.5 hours from Taormina.

You can stay here overnight or, if you have an early flight out tomorrow, continue on afterwards and stay closer to the airport.

A fishing village with a long past, Cefalù’s terracotta rooftops fan out around the base of La Rocca , the hulking 268 metre-high limestone outcrop that dominates the city skyline. 

One option for the penultimate day of our 14 day Sicily itinerary is to give it over to a sun lounge at one of Cefalù’s beach clubs. Just be aware that it can get very busy on the beaches between May and September and you’ll need to get in early if you want a spot.  

Another option is to make the trek up La Rocca to take in its views and sites, which include the 5th century BC Temple of Diana , the 10th century Church of Santa Anna and, at the summit, the ruins of a Norman castle, Castello di Cefalù .  

It’s a 3.5km round trip to the top, there are strict opening hours (the trail closes either 4pm or 5pm depending on the time of year you visit), and an entry fee of around €5. It’s recommended you don’t hike up during the hottest part of the day as there’s no shade.  

Later, enjoy a wander through Cefalù’s medieval old town, keeping an eye out for the historic Porta Pescara and the old harbour, the curious Lavatoio Medievale (a medieval laundry) and the Museo Mandralisica (housing the private art collection of 19th century Baron Mandralisca and the famed ‘Portrait of an Unknown Man’ from 1465).  

You’ll also find another World Heritage treasure in the 12th-13th century Norman-built Cefalù Cathedral . 

Tonight, enjoy one more sunset aperitivo and a classic Sicilian supper in one of Cefalù’s seaside restaurants.

Where to stay in Cefalù

Cefalu’s Centro Storico is where it’s all happening but, like Taormina, this resort town’s popularity means it’s on the pricier side to stay centrally. If you don’t mind being a bit further out, then you’ll find a better deal. Here are some suggested stays with fab reviews: 

• Good value: I MORI – Holiday Rooms  
• Mid-range: B&B Olas Del Mar   
• Spend a bit more: Abelia Sea Suites

Day 14 – Depart Palermo

Total driving distance: appx. 100km (62 miles)   Total driving time: appx. 1.5 hours

Last day of our epic Sicily road trip!

Leave yourself plenty of time to navigate your way from Cefalù to Palermo Airport and drop off your hire car before checking in.

If you’re flying out later today, this might be an opportunity to sleep in, laze on the beach or enjoy a final wander and a last Sicilian feast in Cefalù. 

And start planning your return to Sicily! 

If you have any questions, thoughts or updates to share in relation to this Sicily road trip, let us know in the comments below!  

For more Italian road trips and adventures, head to our Italy section .

If you’re looking for more great road tripping itineraries and adventures,  check out our Road Trips page , and our  bucket list of 100 ultimate road trips around the world .

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14-Day Sicily Itinerary: An Epic Sicily Road Trip (+map)

Planning a two week Sicily road trip itinerary and looking for the most interesting places to visit, things to do, and the best route to take? I got you covered with my detailed 14 day Sicily itinerary (extendable to 16 days).

Although it is impossible to see absolutely everything on the biggest Italian island in just a couple of weeks or even one month, the good news is that two weeks in Sicily by car is enough time to visit different parts of the island . In just a couple of weeks, you can drive the perimeter of the island from west to east and north to south and see the best of Sicily’s natural and historical sights, and experience intriguing Sicilian culture .

From pristine Sicilian beaches and postcard-perfect coastal towns like Cefalù to the greatest baroque architecture of Val di Noto, chaotic but charming streets of Palermo, climbing the smoking Etna volcano, and wandering back in time through the alleyways of mysterious medieval villages in Madonie mountains, just to name a few highlights and must-visit places included to this two-week road trip in Sicily route .

Moreover, to help you easily plan an unforgettable trip, besides the best places to visit in Sicily and fantastic things to do , I also include driving distances and times , suggestions for accommodation, and great places to eat in each location. I also share some useful miscellaneous tips about traveling in Sicily.

Following my ultimate Sicily in 2 weeks itinerary, you will discover not only popular places but also many wonderful hidden gems where the authentic Sicilian experience unfolds.

Keep on reading to find out how to visit Sicily in two weeks and see the best of this Italian island!

Disclaimer:  This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). This helps to keep my blog running and growing by creating more awesome free content for you.

14-day Sicily itinerary

2 weeks in sicily road trip itinerary overview (14-16 days).

• DAY 1 Catania
• DAY 2 Agira and Gagliano Castelferrato
• DAY 3 Gangi (Madonie mountains)
• DAY 4 Cefalù
• DAY 5-6 Palermo
• DAY 7-8 Castellammare dell Golfo and Zingaro Nature reserve
• DAY 9 Favignana island
• DAY 10-11 Trapani
• DAY 12- 13 Ragusa (with an optional stop at Valley of Temples) and Modica
• DAY 14 Syracuse
• DAY 15 Etna hike (with an optional afternoon in Taormina)
• DAY 16 Catania (flight day)

Total distance: approx. 1158 km (720 miles)

Time on the road: approx. 18.5 hrs

Travel essentials for 2 weeks in Sicily, Italy

• My TOP TIP : The best way to explore Sicily is by self-driving. Rent a car at the best rates at Discover Cars .
• Best flight deals: Use Skyscanner to find the cheapest and fastest flights to Sicily from your location.
• Sleep: find your perfect accommodation in Sicily on Booking.com .
• TRAVEL INSURANCE: get 5% off your insurance by using my link on Heymondo , a travel insurance provider. For the cheapest travel insurance on the market check SafetyWing .
• eSIM CARD: Stay connected before you land. Airlo offers an eSIM card with up to 20 GB (7 to 30 days) data packages for Italy and Europe.

6 useful things to know before heading on a road trip to Sicily

1. how many days do you need to see the entire island of sicily.

You need at least 10 days to cover the full perimeter of Sicily at a quite fast pace. However, the reasonable amount would be a minimum of 14 days to see the highlights of Sicily at a medium pace, spending 1, 2, or 3 nights in each place of interest. Ideally, I would recommend 3 weeks to even a month for a slow-paced trip. This would allow exploring not only the mainland of Sicily but also include several days of island hopping on Aeolian islands.

2. What is the best way to get around Sicily?

The best and easiest way to independently explore Sicily is by car. Public transport connects bigger cities like Palermo, Catania, Syracuse, Agrigento, and Trapani. However, getting to the smaller towns, the transportation is not as frequent, and commuting time is much slower than by a car. Also, some wonderful mountain villages or secluded beaches are only accessible by private transport.

Therefore, renting a car for a trip to Sicily was a no-brainer for us. It also allows moving around at your own pace.

I found the best car rental prices for my road trip in Sicily with DiscoverCars.

Rent a Car in Sicily

Look for the best rates for your rental car at Discovercars.

RELATED READS: If you are wondering, what is it like to drive in Sicily , you may want to read my post about it here .

3. How long does it take to drive around Sicily?

Just to give you a rough idea of the driving times in Sicily, it takes approximately 3-4 hours to tackle around 300 km from East to West.

For example, Trapani to Catania is 3.5 hours drive (315 KM), and similarly, Palermo to Syracuse is 3 hours drive covering 260 KM. Going into the hinterland of Sicily may take around 1-2 hours from the coast, depending on the exact location. In general, driving in central Sicily through the mountain villages is slower than touring the main roads around the coast.

However, you won’t be driving long distances on this road trip every single day. In fact, there is only one day on this itinerary that requires a very long drive from Trapani to Ragusa with a stop in between.

4. Getting to Sicily

There are 3 main international airports in Sicily. You will most certainly land at one of them. They are located in Trapani in the West, Catania in the East, and Palermo (capital city of Sicily) in the North West.

It is also possible to reach Sicily by ferry. One of the main ports connecting Sicily to the mainland of Italy is Messina (the eastern part). This would be an entry point for those of you traveling by road from Southern Italy (as we did).

Also, there is a long-distance ferry from Napoli and Salerno which takes around 11 hours to reach Sicily at the port of Palermo.

5. Where should I go- East or West Sicily?

Your entry point to Sicily and the duration of your stay will most likely determine which part of the island you will choose to explore.

If you have anything less than 10 days to spare, focus either just on the Eastern or the Western part of the island. That being said, if you land in Catania, your best bet is to explore the eastern and southeastern parts of Sicily. On another hand, if you are landing in Palermo or Trapani, with limited time in mind, focus on the west and northwest side of the island. In this case, you will also have an option to add a day trip to Egadian islands which are just a short 30min ride by ferry from Trapani.

If you have a couple of weeks or more, you can then aim to tour the whole island.

• Related reads: 30+ Useful Sicily Travel Tips .

6. What is the best time to visit Sicily?

The best time to visit Sicily is from the end of April-May and September to the beginning of October. These months are the shoulder season for traveling in Sicily.

You can expect pleasant temperatures on the coast and very few tourists. Have in mind that the water in May can still be a little chilly but it is already suitable to swim. Meanwhile, the temperature in the mountains can drop as low as 8 degrees Celsius, so plan to take some layers.

In September, on another hand, water temperatures are perfect, keeping the warmth accumulated during the summer heat. Also, the national Italian holiday season (which is in August) is already over, so crowds are fewer and accommodation prices are lower.

I would suggest avoiding July and August if you can as those are the most expensive and busy months to travel in Sicily.

The off-season would be suitable for those of you who do not care about swimming and just want to enjoy Sicilian culture and food.

How much does it cost to travel in Sicily?

These are the main expenses for traveling around Sicily. The estimates are based on this 14-16 days road trip route, taking into account car rental, petrol, accommodation, food, and attractions.

• Petrol cost for two weeks- 185 EUR- based on the estimated distance of this route and petrol consumption of 8 L per 100 KM, with petrol price averaging at 2 EUR/L. (in Italy petrol prices range from 1.8 EUR to 2.2 EUR)
• Accommodation cos t – 50 EUR-150 EUR per night for 2 people.
• Car rental cost – 20 EUR per day (budget, but can be double or even more if booked last minute).
• Dinner (eating out)- 20-30 EUR per person with starter and main, and one drink.
• Pizza (any time of the day)- 5-12 EUR per pizza (depending on the place).
• Coffee- 1EUR for an espresso, 1.5EUR-2 EUR for a cappuccino or latte macchiato.
• Dolce (pastries)- 1EUR-3EUR per pastry.
• Soft drinks- 2 EUR for sparkling water or soft drinks like coca-cola at a bar/restaurant.
• Alcohol – 3-7 EUR for a glass of wine or an Aperol spritz.
• Museums/Churches – 3EUR-15EUR per entrance (the most we paid for the entrance was at Norman Palace in Palermo and Monreale Cathedral in Monreale).

The estimated average daily spending per person (based on a trip for 2 people) is around 110 EUR per day . Definitely, the cost can be higher or lower. The factor that can hugely influence the budget is accommodation and daily meals. The cost of petrol is more or less fixed, car rental is whatever the best deal you can get .

Our 2-week Sicily Road Trip Route Map

About this 2-week Sicily itinerary (14-16 days)

This itinerary for a 2-week road trip in Sicily is a loop starting and ending in Catania. Although originally, we travelled to Sicily from the South of Italy, crossing the strait of Messina from Villa San Giovani by ferry (with a car).

My Sicily itinerary is a bit unconventional compared to what you may find on other blogs. It focuses more on the off-the-beaten path places around the island rather than ticking off all the tourist hotspots. However, I still have included several popular and well-known destinations such as Cefalu seaside town, or the capital Palermo, for example.  

Following this route, in 14 days we visited a selection of amazing places in the east, north, west, and south of Sicily . At each destination, we spent 1 or 2 nights, depending on how many points of interest were in the area. Each day we tried to limit driving time to a couple of hours only. However, a couple of days are required to be on the road longer. Nonetheless, we made sure to have some nice pit stops along the way.

For a dynamic trip in Sicily experience, I included a mix of everything: beaches and mountains, nature reserves as well as atmospheric medieval hilltop towns, colorful markets, and cultural sights featuring the finest baroque architecture. That being said, it is a must to have a car to reach some of the locations on this Sicily road trip route.

At a glimpse at my 2-week itinerary, you may notice that some of the most popular touristic hotspots like Taormina, or Valley of Temples in Agrigento are not included (even though you can find them recommended in almost every blog and travel guide).

The reason behind my choice is that I prioritized more local experience, and exploring beyond the most famous attractions. If I had more time in Sicily, I might have stopped at some of those touristy places too.

Nonetheless, every traveler has different interests and preferences. Therefore, I still have mentioned the most popular sights in Sicily that you could add to your itinerary.

We traveled during the second and third week of May which proved to be a perfect time before the busy tourist season takes full swing.

Sicily in 2 weeks: road trip itinerary day by day

Day 1: catania (1 night).

If you land in Catania, your Sicily journey starts and ends in the second biggest town of Sicily. If you are not planning to spend more than one night in Catania at the beginning of your trip, I recommend immediately picking up your rental car at Catania airport (also returning it to the same airport will save a huge amount on your car rental costs).

In case you decide to allocate more time in Catania and are not planning on driving outside the city, then you can pick up your car later. I also recommend doing it at the airport as it is cheaper than in the city.

Nonetheless, having limited time in Sicily, I suggest spending a day in Catania itself for the main sights as there are so many more other interesting things to see in Sicily.

THINGS TO DO IN CATANIA

Catania is the second biggest city in Sicily (after the capital Palermo). Originally founded by Greeks in 729 BC, and later conquered by Romans around 250 BC, Catania, just like all of Sicily, underwent numerous conquests. Besides Greeks and Romans, Normans, Arabs, Byzantines, and Spaniards passed by leaving their footsteps.

As if that was not enough challenge, in the middle ages, the city was destroyed by volcanic eruptions and earthquakes, and then rebuilt in Baroque architecture style in the 18 th century.

Today Catania is a bustling town where you can experience an authentic urban lifestyle of Sicily, and admire some of the most impressive architecture.

Top tip: avoid driving in Catania. The town is walkable. Leave your car at the accommodation and go for a “passeggiata” (a nice stroll around the town in Italian).

Main things to do and see in Catania- quick list:

• Start from Piazza del Duomo (with the famous elephant fountain) and the Duomo di Catania (Catania Cathedral)
• Stop by at Pescheria- a local fish market, just behind the Piazza del Duomo. This particular activity would be interesting for street photographers. Note that it is quite a stinky and bloody experience. The fish market is open daily in the mornings (except on weekends).
• Take Via Etnea- a famous street from where you can see the famous Etna volcano in the background.
• Head to Piazza dell’Universita and explore pallazo dell’Universita and pallazo San Guiliano- two famous palaces in Catania
• If you still have more time, visit Villa Bellini Gardens characterized by its many fountains.
• Finally, if you love peeking into churches, then head to Via Crociferi  to see  the Benedictine Monastery of San Nicolò l’Arena .

If you prefer some guidance when visiting cities, then it is worth checking this Catania Walking Tour , or if you are a food lover, the Food tour of Catania by night offers some off-the-beaten path experiences.

WHERE TO STAY IN CATANIA?

There is no shortage of fantastic accommodation choices in Catania. After doing some research, I shortlisted the following B&B’s and apartments

Casa Verdi- House for Travelers – 9.7/10-beautiful rooms and dorms for travelers on a budget, 23 EUR/ 24.5 USD. Find out more HERE .

Living Suite Catania Pacini – 10/10- beautifully decorated rooms with ornamental tiles, featuring a private balcony. Central location close to Piazza del Duomo and other points of interest in Catania. 57 EUR / 62 USD per night. Click HERE for more info.

Minimal Chich Teatro Massimo Bellini – 10/10- as the name suggests this is a contemporary chic duplex apartment featuring an elevated bedroom accessible by a staircase, including a washing machine (a rare find), and is situated in the historic center of Catania. 96 EUR/103 USD per night. Find out more HERE .

Gorgeous Flat with Opera view- 10/10- truly pretty authentic one-bedroom apartment in a historic building in the heart of Catania. 152 EUR/ 163 USD. Find out more HERE .

Le Suited Del Duomo -9.3/10- right in the Piazza del Duomo, modern rooms with spa bath, 132 EUR/ 141 USD. Click HERE to book.

WHERE TO EAT IN CATANIA

When in Catania, stop by at Comis Ice Café for a fantastic gelato, pistachio granita, and awesome cannoli.

If you love to eat fish, Fishiaria restaurant has great reviews and yummy-looking dishes.

DAY 2: Agira and  Gagliano Castelferrato (overnight in Agira)

• Driving distance:  approx. 85 KM (53 miles)
• Total driving time:  approx. 1 HR 20 MIN
• Stops:  Gagliano Castelferrato

Gagliano Castelferrato

On the second day, head directly to the heart of Sicily following scenic roads with mount Etna views along the way. When I was looking for less explored places in Sicily, I have come across a magical town in Enna province called Gagliano Castelferrato (iron castle). Guarded by the craggy rock, the ancient town is said to be founded in 1900 BC, originally named Galaria.

Gagliano Castelferrato is not yet under the tourists’ radar but it has already been named one of the most beautiful villages in Italy ( Borghi più belli d’Italia ). Indeed, the name is well deserved taking into account the intriguing setup of the town that features a Gothic town center, an ancient rock castle, and splendid panoramic mountain views all around.

Nestled at the foothills of the imposing rock and surrounded by lush green valleys, Gagliano Castelferrato reminds me of Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa in the Basilicata region of South Italy.

A few things you can do in this small gorgeous mountain town of Sicily are to wander around its quiet streets and visit Chiesa Madre San Cataldo- the 14th-century church set atop the town with beautiful views all around.

Also, climb the Rocca Castle for even better panoramic views and a mini-workout. The ancient castle is carved directly into the rock backing up the town of Gagliano Castelferrato.

Initially, I was willing to spend a night in this magical place, however, there was no accommodation to be found. Therefore, I picked a place to sleep in the nearest town of Agira (6 KM from Gagliano Castelferrato).

Initially planned as an overnight spot, Agira turned out to be a picturesque age-old town perched atop the steep hill (mount Teja). I have to admit, we were pleasantly surprised to find out that our blindly picked mountain village is also a very charming medieval settlement boasting panoramic views of Mount Etna.

According to the legend, the village of Agira was founded before the Trojan war by Greeks in 1194 BC, and was originally called Agyrion, with the name derived from the violent Sicilian tyrant Agyris.

The lively historic town center is situated around the piazza Francesco Crispi and Parrocchia S. Antonio Da Padova church .

There are numerous churches worth visiting, including two fine Norman examples, the remains of an Arab-Byzantine fortress and a synagogue, testifying to the presence of a Jewish population several hundred years ago.

A little further away from the historic center, you can find a neighborhood of the Rocche di San Pietro which dates back to Arab times in Sicily. Called Arab Quarter, it is one of the last places in Sicily entirely attributable to Arab art.

Fun Fact: Apparently Agira was recently put back on the map due to an enormous Sicilia Outlet Village- a shopping town with over 100 boutiques dedicated to discounted fashion products from high-end brands such as Prada, Armani, Versace, and similar.

WHERE TO STAY IN AGIRA?

There are only a few accommodation options to choose from in Agira:

Talia – 9.5/10 cozy bright rooms with private bathroom and American breakfast. 72 EUR/ 77 EUR. Find out more HERE .

Case al Borgo- Agira Centre – 9.3/10 provides apartments around Agira, some with fantastic views overlooking the mountains, breakfast included. Management features the restaurant, free wi-fi, garden and a swimming pool. 89 EUR/ 95 USD. For more info click HERE .

Casa Albergo La Terza Stella – 8.4/10. We stayed here. Instead of a room as described on Booking, we got the whole one-bed apartment in the historic center of Agira. Run by a local photographer Franco (we suspect it was his own bachelor apartment) accommodation was simple but good enough for one night. A classic Italian breakfast of pastry and coffee was served at a bar downstairs. 60 EUR/64 USD. You can find out more HERE .

WHERE TO EAT IN AGIRA?

Belvedere – a cheap restaurant offering local food on a terrace with fantastic panoramic views.

Bottega delle Cassatelle – a pastry shop that sells one of the best typical deserts in Sicily- Cassatelle di Agira – a pastry filled with chocolate and dried fruit. In fact, Agira town was the only place we could find this pastry and it is one of the best!

DAY 3: Gangi (1 night)

• Driving distance:  approx. 52 KM (32 miles)
• Total driving time:  approx. 1 HR 10 MIN
• Stops:  Sperlinga

On day 3, we make our way to one of my absolute favorite places in Sicily- a mysterious Gangi (pronounced “gan-chee”), located in the province of Palermo. Surrounded by spectacular Madonie mountains and overlooking mount Etna, the early days of Gangi are tied to the mythical Greek city of Engyon.

Named the most beautiful village in Italy , Gangi dates back to 1200 BC and was founded by Cretans. It was destroyed during the War of Sicilian Vespers and rebuilt approximately in the 1300s of this era. This is how we know the Gangi of today.

The town of Gangi raises up in layers of bright color houses glued side to side like a Lego game. While dozens of narrow cobblestone streets zigzag between the buildings leading your way up the Marone Mount, which is the base of Gangi.

Gangi is a true hidden gem filled with rich history and charm. Once a ghost village, selling abandoned homes for 1 EUR, today it seems to slowly come to life and gain a little bit of attention from a few curious travelers like myself.

At the time of our visit, Gangi was covered in fog. Although mount Etna was nowhere to be seen due to the weather, we will forever remember the mysterious atmosphere of the streets in the clouds.

RELATED READS: Check my complete guide to Gangi mountain town in Sicily, Italy .

Other places to visit near Gangi

Madonie mountains are home to many historical villages. You can easily base yourself in Gangi for a couple of nights and explore other frozen back-in-time medieval villages like Petralia Soprana, Petralia Sotanna, Polizzi Generose, or Sperlinga.  Also, Madonie mountains are a perfect place to have some wifi detox. Internet, although available in most of the accommodations, is as slow as the life of the mountain villages.

Finally, if walking up and down the steep cobblestone streets hasn’t made your legs tired yet, you can try some of the many hiking trails . There are some wonderful trekking routes of different lengths and difficulty levels in the Madonie National Park.

WHERE TO STAY IN GANGI?

B&B IL GALLETTO R. – 9.4/10- We stayed at this cozy and comfortable homestay with easy parking (important!) situated almost at the top of the town, in close proximity to the main historical parts and a couple of good local restaurants. Included breakfast was fantastic and plentiful (sweet as usual in Sicily). 50 EUR/ 54 USD per night. Click HERE for more info.

RESIDENCE VENTIMIGLIA – 9.6/10- modern and bright apartment in the heart of Gangi, features a terrace with mountain views and is a perfect option for a longer stay. It also includes a sweet Sicilian breakfast available to have in the café outside the apartment. 90 EUR/96 USD per night. Find out more HERE .

WHERE TO EAT IN GANGI?

Baglio Tramontana -we had one of the best dinners in Sicily in this pizza restaurant which also offered a selection of different kinds of pasta (the porcini mushroom tagliatelle was incredible), and pizza was great as well.

Capricci di Gola – a pastry shop in the lower part of the town which had an amazing selection of different local sweets and coffee.

DAY 4: Cefal ù (1 night)

• Driving distance:  approx. 60 KM (37 miles)
• Suggested stops:  Castelbuono

On day 4 we left the misty Madonie mountains in search of sunshine. We headed to one of the most picturesque seaside towns in North Sicily- Cefalù . Nestled at the foothills of an imposing rock, and washed by the salty waters of the Tyrrhenian sea, Cefalù (pronounced shef-a-loo) is an ancient fishing port featuring a picture-perfect beach set against the old town walls.

Today Cefalù is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sicily , attracting thousands of sun-seekers during the summer months. Luckily we were traveling during the shoulder season, the beginning of May. But even at this time, the main street Corso Ruggero in the old town of Cefalù was quite busy. Especially at the Piazza del Duomo. It was packed with hundreds of visitors during the day.

Nonetheless, chilly water and stormy weather kept Spiaggia di Cefalù (Cefalù beach) completely empty. And since swimming was only for the bravest that day, we opted to explore the charming backstreets of the old town without the crowds.

Here are a few things you can do while in Cefalù:

• Enjoy the sunshine and swim at Spiaggia di Cefalù o(also called Spiaggia del Porto Vecchio -the iconic Cefalù beach backed by rustic old buildings) or Spiaggia Libera (free beach stretching along the promenade leading to the old town)
• Wander and get lost in the backstreets of the historical center in Cefalù. Here you will find plenty of gelaterias to grab a granita or brioche with gelato, and also countless souvenir shops and hidden restaurants.
• Sip a coffee at the bustling Piazza del Duomo . This is the most touristic spot in Cefalù. But if crowds are not your scene, come to Piazza del Duomo after sunset- the plaza is empty and Duomo during the blue hour looks way more magical than during the day.
• Hike up La Rocca di Cefalù to Castello di Cefalù (castle) for wonderful views of the orange roofs of the old town and a coastline stretching all the way to Palermo in the west and Capo d’Orlando in the east (284 m elevation gain).
• Find the medieval wash house ( lavatoio medievale ) located on Via Vittorio Emanuelle . Wrapped in a myth of being built of the river flowing with tears of a nymph who cried over her dead lover, Lavatoio is a wonderful example of the life in Cefalù back in old days.
• Catch the sunset at the old harbor of Cefalù. This place is magically beautiful. I simply couldn’t put my camera away. The dramatically dark clouds rolling over La Rocca with the sun casting over the facades of old buildings is a dream come true scene for photography lovers. The best iconic views can be caught at the end of the cement outcrop stretching into the sea from the small harbor beach.

WHERE TO STAY IN CEFALU?

Cefalù is one of the most popular places to visit in Sicily, therefore booking accommodation well in advance is strongly recommended. Prices of accommodation are also higher than in other places around Sicily. If you are driving, I recommend looking for a place NOT in the historic center but somewhere nearby within a walking distance. Also, check if the hotel or homestay offers free parking, if at all.

Villa Margherita – 9/10 – We stayed here. Villa turned mini-hotel with a very helpful owner who even spoke English (not common in Sicily). Great breakfast was included (with savory options too). Villa has a big private inner yard to park your car safely and the historic town is no more than 10 min away, beach just a few steps away. 102 EUR/ 110 USD for the month of June (was slightly cheaper in May). Click HERE for more info.

Amori di Sicilia – 10/10- 2-bedroom apartment. If you are looking for fully equipped accommodation in the historical center of Cefalu, maybe for a longer stay, this might be a good option. Downside- no parking available.111 EUR/ 120 USD per night. Find out more HERE .

Hotel La Plumeria – 8.8/10- Hotel at the heart of Cefalu, offering rooms with fantastic balconies overlooking the old town, towers of Duomo and La Rocca, free parking, continental breakfast included. 152 EUR/ 163 USD per night. Find more info HERE .

WHERE TO EAT IN CEFALU?

Options of places to eat in Cefalù old town are countless. However, the best places with fewer tourists are always in the backstreets and not on the main road. Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro, almost at the back of the old town has some hidden away cozy places, some of them set on the seafront.

• Al Ristoro Di Re Ruggero is one of them-offers warm and welcoming service and great local food.
• Squagghio Icecream is also on Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro. This was our gelateria to go with one of the most amazing real mango ice creams I ever had in my life (the second one was in Portugal).

DAY 5-6: Palermo (2 nights)

• Driving distance:  approx. 76 KM (47 miles)
• Total driving time:  approx. 1 HR 30 MIN
• Stops:  Sant’Elia, Aspra

The rough, unpolished, crumbling down, loud and chaotic but undeniably charismatic Palermo is a complete contrast to everything else I saw in Sicily.

In the capital of Sicily, you can experience authentic unfiltered city life. You see people hustling to make their living at the doorsteps of the most enchanting gold-plated churches, and head-spinning palaces. Quite a number of immigrants from Africa and Bangladesh are calling Palermo their home- something you don’t find in small towns of Sicily.

Wide streets dotted with glorious architecture, busy markets, billions of bars and street food stalls, dodgy alleyways, beggars, completely confused tourists, religious ceremonies- there were so many things going on at the same time in Palermo.

Surprisingly, spending a couple of days in Palermo was like a fresh breather and a curiosity boost after the sleepy mountain towns and slow-paced fishing villages.

Things you can do in Palermo:

• Treat your senses with sounds, smells, sights, and flavors at Ballaro morning market . Coming to full life at around 10-11 AM, a colorful and authentic like back in old days market will offer quite an entertainment. The highlight is the cheerful vendors shouting and singing serenades about their strawberries. You can find fantastic street food, bread, vegetables, meat, fish, home utensils, and clothes- they sell it all at the best prices at Ballaro in Palermo.
• Visit the famous architectural monuments- Cathedral of Palermo, Palace of Normans with golden mosaics of Palatine chapel , admire the red domes of the  St. John of the Hermits church, Martorana and Santa Caterina Churches and fountain of shame ( Fontana Pretoria ).
• Stroll through pedestrian streets of Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda intersecting at Quattro Canti (four corners)- the heart of the historic district of Palermo.
• Try as much street food in Palermo as you can because it is said to be the best in the world! You will find famous arancini with all sorts of fillings (not only the usual meat).
• Drive to Monreale for the impressive Unesco listed Monreale cathedral and the best bread in the region. Built in the 12th century, Monreale cathedral and its cloister contain the largest concentration of Norman, Arab and Byzantine art in one building. 2200kg of gold were used to create Monreale mosaics depicting scenes of the New and the Old Testament. Undoubtedly, those Byzantine mosaics are one of the most magnificent in the world. We have spent almost an hour just admiring the craftsmanship and detailing. Once you finish exploring the cathedral, head to any Panetteria (bakery) in town to buy some delicious Monreale bread- it was definitely the nicest one we had in Italy.
• Visit nearby seaside towns . We stopped at Aspra and Sant’Ellia when driving from Cefalù to Palermo- those are small fishing villages with a fantastic atmosphere, and opportunities to swim and meet locals.

Top Tip: Park your car at the accommodation and walk. Driving in Palermo is a bad idea due to traffic. Also, the historic center is easily walkable. If you stay a little bit outside of the historic center, it is a good idea to catch a public bus or a taxi just to avoid the headache of driving and looking for parking.

WHERE TO STAY IN PALERMO?

LA CASETTA NORMANNA – 10/10- Apartment located in the historical center of Palermo, with free parking and a garden. 100 EUR/ 109 USD per night. Click HERE for more info and the latest prices.

Ai Tre Mercati – 9.6/10- Bright simple rooms with balcony, close to Ballaro market and other historical center attractions, excellent Italian and continental breakfast included, very helpful and knowledgeable host (which is a bonus, especially in Palermo). 114 EUR/122 USD per night. Find out more HERE .

Storie di Palermo – 9.1/10- Accommodation is located in the historical center of Palermo close to Fontana Pretoria and Palermo Cathedral. Huge rooms are decorated with beautiful colorful tiles. 82 EUR/ 88 USD per night. Check for more info HERE .

N’Amuri di Casa – 10/10- simple but cozy one-bedroom apartment (can host up to 4 people) in the historical center of Palermo features a small balcony and offers free parking. 90 EUR/ 97 USD. Find out more HERE .

CATHEDRAL VIEW APARTMENTS -9.6/10- absolutely stunning and spacious 2-bedroom apartment in a historical building with a balcony opening up to the views of Palermo Cathedral. 335 EUR/360 USD per night. Check for more info HERE .

What to eat in Palermo

• All sorts of arancini. A classic one has the meat filling. However, in Palermo, you can find many different types of fillings to choose from- mozzarella, salmon, swordfish, mushroom, and many more.
• Try different types of seafood. A great place to and value is at Ballaro market where you can pick your treat from the many different stalls. You can also find cozy market restaurants with colorful covers where you can break for delicious semi-street food lunch.
• Cassata siciliana al forno at Caffè del Kàssaro . My favorite Sicilian cake, as usual with ricotta. But this one is different from the rest I have tried in Sicily.

DAY 7-8: Castellammare del Golfo and Lo Zingaro Nature reserve (2 nights in Castellammare del Golfo)

• Stops:  Monreale Cathedral

A couple of days in busy Palermo was just a perfect amount of time for us, although you could spend there much longer, or make it as a base for visiting nearby attractions.

Now we are heading North West with a short stop inland at Monreale Cathedral and back on the coast to the seaside town of Castellammare del Golfo. It will be our base for 2 nights. The main plan here is to hike Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve . The entrance to the reserve is conveniently located only 15 min drive away from Castellammare del Golfo.

Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve is Sicily’s first protected area established in 1981. It features several nature trails. One of the most popular is a relatively easy 7km one-way (14 km round trip) trail above the coast with 6 wild beaches you can stop at for a swim. Lo Zingaro became popular recently and is definitely one of the most visited natural places in Sicily due to its spectacular panoramas.

Entrance fee: 5 EUR per person per day, opening hours from 7 AM to 5 PM during the summer months and 8 AM to 4 PM off-season (winter, late autumn).

Top tip: bring snacks and water because there are no supplies along the trail except one sandwich kiosk at the South entrance side. Also, although doable in several hours, you might want to dedicate almost a full day to Lo Zingaro as you may not notice the time spent sunbathing and swimming in crystal clear waters.

RELATED READS: Make sure to also check my full guide to Lo Zingaro nature reserve in Sicily, Italy .

Castellammare del Golfo

Named after the seafront castle ( Castello Arabo Normanno ) overlooking a large gulf, Castellammare del Golfo was founded in the 6 th century BC Elymians as a commercial port.

The slopping streets and staircases of the Castellammare lead to the picturesque marina (old harbor) dotted with fishing boats and small fancy yachts. Seeing so many fishing boats docked around, you can naturally expect to find some great fresh seafood restaurants. Choices of which are plentiful in Castellammare.

There is no shortage of sandy and pebble beaches in the area of Castellamare del Golfo. The most accessible is Cala Petrolo beach situated east of the historical center. I wouldn’t recommend swimming there; it didn’t look clean and the setup of the massive concrete wall behind was not appealing at all.

Instead, head further east to Spiaggia Playa (around a 20min walk from the old town)- a long stretch of sandy beach backed by many restaurants and cafes. Spiaggia Playa is a swimming place loved by locals and gets busy during the peak summer months.

Alternatively, drive 10 minutes West of Castellammare del Golfo to the wild beaches Cala Bianca or Cala Rosa. You will have to navigate your way from the main road to one of the hidden turns leading to those pristine beaches.

Head to Belvedere Castellamare del Golfo for scenic views overlooking the town and stretching as far as Palermo.

WHERE TO STAY IN CASTELLAMMARE DEL GOLFO?

Le Sette Meraviglie – 9.7/10 – simple and bright one-bedroom apartments with balcony and sea view, offer free parking. 94 EU/101 USD. Find out more and book HERE .

B&B Nencioli – 9.8/10 – nicely decorated spacious rooms with balconies are offered in this B&B which is also located in the historic center of Castellamare del Golfo. Continental breakfast is also included. And served at a terrace with a beautiful view, free parking included. 109 EUR/117 EUR per night. Find out more and book HERE .

Atrium – 9.8/10 -located 10 min walk from the beach, the accommodation offers elegant rooms with terrace or balcony, free parking, shared kitchen, and exceptional continental breakfast included. 88 EUR/ 94 USD per night. Find out more and book HERE.

Santina -9.5/10 – bright fresh rooms, fantastic seaside views, and great terrace, free parking and breakfast included. 264 EUR/ 283 USD per night. Find out more and book HERE .

Gastronomical tip: try cassatelle – ricotta and chocolate-chip-filled pastry in a sweet dhow, usually deep-fried. It is a specialty of Castellammare del Goflo, and you can find it all around the town. Our host in Palermo recommended roadside bar La Sorgente which specializes in cassatelle pastries. Trust me they are really good, so we came back multiple times.

DAY 9: Favignana (Egadian islands) (1 night)

• Driving distance:  approx. 42 KM (26 miles)
• Total driving time:  approx. 50 MIN
• Parking:  Leaving the car for the night in Trapani

The time spent in Castellammare del Golfo and Lo Zingaro was slow-paced and relaxed. To extend our semi-chilled vacation(considering that we always move around and explore places), we decided to spend one night in Favignana . It is located on the west coast and is reachable by 30 min ferry ride from Trapani.

Favignana is the largest of the three Egadian islands, but still small enough to tour its aquamarine beaches on an old-school bicycle. The other two islands are tiny Levanzo and the wild one- Marettimo.

Favignana can be paralleled to the laid-back island life of the Caribbeans – a perfect place just to do nothing, go on a slow beach hopping with many stops for an ice-fresh granita.

For this reason, the best way to explore Favignana island is by bicycle, electronic bike, or scooter. There are countless rental spots ( Noleggio Bici e Motorini ) just outside the ferry port and in the old town.

Things to do on Favignana island

• Beach hopping. The noteworthy ones are Calla Rosa, Calla Azzurra, Spiaggia Lido di Burrone, and our favorite the unique Bue Marino- an old query turned beach with impossibly blue waters.
• Catch the sunset at Cala Rotonda located on the western part of the island which was completely wild and scenery wise reminded me of the Turkish side of Cyprus.
• Just do nothing- it is an island to slow down, sip some aperitivo, coffee, or granita- whatever your preference is. A perfect place for that is tiny Favignana’s historical center, the Piazza Europa- one of the two main old town squares (the other one just 50 meters away is Piazza Madrice).
• Try street food- tuna burgers to be specific. Pescheria Florio at the corner of Piazza Europa is a place to go (we ate there countless times during our 1.5-day stay).
• If you have more time, catch a boat to Levanzo island and spend a couple of hours there. Marettimo is further away, with fewer daily connections, and also the wildest out of all 3 islands. You should visit it if you have more than a night in Fivignana.

READ MORE: my complete guide to Favignana and Egadi islands, Sicily .

Top tip: if you are arriving in a rental car, park it for the night in a large parking lot at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele in Trapani. It wouldn’t make sense to bring the car to Favignana- costly and you won’t need it. Parking in Trapani costs only 5 EUR for a day (and that’s the maximum you can pay in one shot). Therefore, if you are visiting the Egadian islands only for one night and need to leave your car in Trapani, this is a perfect option. Note that you will have to walk 15 minutes to the ferry from the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele parking lot.

WHERE TO STAY IN FAVIGNANA?

Cave Garden Roo ms- 9.7/10- we stayed here and it was amazing-located a few kilometers inland but free pick up and drop off from the ferry is provided. If you planning on renting a bike, it is a perfect place to stay. The family-run hotel features special cave rooms which are very modern and extremely comfy beds. The place was very peaceful, the breakfast amazing, and the hosts were absolutely incredible. Highly recommend! 60 EUR/64USD per night. Check for more info, availability, and booking HERE .

Residence Scirocco e Tramontana – 9.3/10 – Fantastic one-bedroom apartment with beach vibes, overlooking the sea and close to the ferry port. 155 EUR/166 USD per night. Check for more info, availability, and booking HERE .

Casa Vacanze Senia Del Rais – 9.4/10 – vacation house, located inland of Favignana, free pick up and drop off from the port is included. 147 EUR/ 158 USD per night. Check for more info, availability, and booking HERE .

DAY 10-11: Trapani (2 nights)

• Driving distance:  approx. 90 KM (56 miles)
• Total driving time:  approx. 2 HRS
• Visiting:  Erice and San Vito Lo Capo

Trapani is the biggest port town in West Sicily which also has an airport. On my first visit to Sicily back in 2016, Trapani was where I landed. The old town of Trapani isn’t huge and features an atmospheric waterfront facing the west side (great for sunsets). You probably won’t need more than half a day to explore Trapani’s historic center at a slow pace.

Top Tip: Trapani is a perfect base for exploring Western Sicily because many attractions are within a 30min to 1-hour drive.

Things to do around Trapani

• Visit Erice- a mountain-top town frozen back in time.

You may wonder if, after seeing a few mountain towns of Madonie, you really need to see another one. The answer is yes. Erice is absolutely unmissable on your Sicily trip and it is different from what you may have seen before.

Erice is a well-preserved medieval town, with narrow cobblestone streets winding up and down, pretty piazzas, churches, castles, and incredible views overlooking Trapani on one side and Monte Cofano Natural Reserve on the other. Driving the classic hairpin mountain road, you will find Erice situated 751 meters above sea level and often covered in its personal cloud. To catch the misty views, and great light, and to avoid crowds (tour buses start floating in at around 9 am) aim to come early morning. Also, you can come for an evening stroll with an opportunity to catch a beautiful sunset.

There are quite a few wonderful viewing points around the whole perimeter of Erice. But one of the best ones opens up from Gardino del Balio – the garden next to Balio Castle (which is also open for visitors).

Useful Tip: if you are not keen on driving the windy roads, you can take a cable car from Trapani. A round trip costs 9 EUR per person). Coming back during the sunset time by cable car is also a fantastic experience.

• Visit Monte Cofano Natural Reserve.

Heading up north towards San Vito Lo Capo, Monte Cofano Nature Reserve is home to some of the best sceneries in Sicily. You can go on a light hike around the Reserve, or stop at one of the less crowded beaches in Macari (Spiaggia di Macari) . An interesting detour is Grotta Mangiapane – a tiny cave village turned museum. The cost for the visit is a donation of your chosen amount.

• Visit San Vito Lo Capo beach .

San Vito lo Capo located at the very northwestern tip of the island is considered one of the best beaches in Sicily. No wonder it became a popular summer destination as it features a long stretch of white sand beach dotted with colorful umbrellas and divided into free and private sections.

A number of bars and restaurants dotted along Via Lotaranea Lungomare, plus fantastic views of the nearby mountain is a full package for those who love bustling seaside towns.

I have to admit San Vito Lo Capo wasn’t my cup of tea- it was just a little too busy even in May. But I can see why it is a great hangout spot, especially for teenagers and students, and also families since the sea access is quite shallow.

Dessert Tip: When in San Vito Lo Capo, try “fredo caldo” desert at Cavalluccio Marino coffee bar. Couscous is also a specialty there but I didn’t particularly enjoy that dish.

• Visit Segesta temple

Well-preserved and based in gorgeous surroundings, Segesta temple and the theatre are the remains of a former ancient city founded by Elymes. Segesta is 30 min drive from Trapani. The visit will cost you roughly 12 EUR. There is a separate fee for the shuttle bus taking visitors to the site. You must leave your car at a paid parking and also pay a 6 EUR entrance fee for visiting the temple and theater.  Note that the theater is located a little bit higher up on Mount Barbaro 400 meters above sea level. If you are not keen on walking, there is another shuttle bus for 1.5 EUR one way which can take you there.

• Visit Favignana island on a day trip. If you don’t want to spend a night in Favignana, Trapani is a perfect base for a day trip to the Egadian islands. Connections from Trapani to Favignana are frequent and you can enjoy a relaxed day without having to spend the night.

WHERE TO STAY IN TRAPANI?

Le Cupole Suits & Apartments – 9.7/10- spacious minimalistic and bright apartments in the heart of Trapani with private parking available. 101 EUR/108 USD per night. For more info, availability and bookings click HERE .

Tra I Mari – 9.7/10- One-bedroom house in the historic center of Trapani with free parking available, perfect for a longer stay in Trapani. 116 EUR/ 125 USD per night. For more info, availability and bookings click HERE .

Room of Andrea Hotel – 9.2/10- a boutique hotel offering elegant rooms in the historic center of Trapani, buffet breakfast included. 162 EUR/174 USD per night. For more info, availability and bookings click HERE .

Dimora Botteghelle – 9.5/10- charming B&B with beautiful rooms featuring traditional arched stone walls, 1 min walk from the beach in Trapani historical center. 128 EUR/ 136 USD per night. For more info, availability and bookings click HERE .

WHERE TO EAT IN TRAPANI?

Boca Pizzeria Trattoria – not exactly in Trapani old town but only 10 min drive in Rigaletta town. This place was my number one Pizzeria in Sicily serving super delicious pizzas on focaccia type of dough with a very generous amount of toppings. Sevice was unmatched considering how busy this place in the middle of nowhere gets. Reservation in advance is recommended. We came without one but super-efficient restaurant manager made sure to get us a table in under 10 minutes.

DAY 12- 13: Ragusa and Modica (2 nights in Ragusa)

• Driving distance:  approx. 313 KM (194 miles)
• Total driving time:  approx. 4 HRS 50 MIN
• Stops: Punta Bianca
• Alternative stop: Valley of Temples

This leg of the journey is the longest on our road trip. We will be heading from Trapani to the baroque gem Ragusa . Along the way, I have included an off-the-beaten-path stop at Punta Bianca – a rival to the more well-known Scali dei Tuchi (Turkish Steps) in Agrigento province.

Alternative detour: If you are keen on history, ruins, and temples, then along the way, instead of Punta Bianca, you can stop at the famous Valley of Temples in Agrigento . We were not too keen on visiting this tourist sight and only witnessed it from afar while driving on SS115 road. It was quite a bizarre view- an ancient Temple of Concordia backed by the soviet type of urban landscape of Agrigento.

Instead of Valley of Temples, we chose to explore quite an unusual sight of Punta Bianca- a unique white rock beach with a lonely abandoned house. It was a bumpy off-road drive to the parking spot, and a short 500 meters walk down the steep hill to the beach.

The views here are different from what we saw everywhere in Sicily. With beautiful natural surroundings, Punta Bianca is a great stop for photography lovers. I advise coming during the sunset (we were there during midday, and even at that time the scenery looked impressive).

We spent a good couple of hours shooting and trying to swim at Punta Bianca (it is not ideal for swimming, although there is another beach nearby that looked more suitable for swimming).

Important: Don’t step in the small bushes in this area. We saw a black long snake hiding and apparently, there are a lot of them in the area. Nothing to worry about, just avoid those small bushes and stick to the clear sandy paths.

Ragusa is one of the UNESCO baroque towns that belong to Val Di Noto – a crown jewel of southeast Sicily and an absolute must-visit.

The town of two souls-Ragusa is divided into the modern city and the ancient Ragusa Ibla- the baroque lounge. The split of the town happened after the 1693 earthquake. Ragusa Superior, today known as the modern Ragusa, was rebuilt based on efficiency, while the prettier and more atmospheric Ragusa Inferior or Ragusa Ibla (the lower part of town) was rebuilt in baroque style and now is a quickly growing tourism magnet.

Still, it doesn’t seem to be completely discovered and you can pleasantly enjoy the maze of Ragusa’s street free of crowds.

The main architectural landmark of Ragusa is Duomo di San Giorgio . The piazza surrounding the Duomo comes alive at night with its many bars and restaurants where you can have a drink or dinner.

Meanwhile, the iconic views of Ragusa Ibla can be seen from Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Scale (the church of Saint Mary of the Stairs).

The most pleasant time to explore Ragusa is early mornings when the streets are completely empty. At this time, you will only meet a few elderly people gathering at a local cafeteria sipping espresso and reading newspapers (and probably being the last generation to actually read old-school newspapers in this digital era).

While at sunset, head for the viewing point at Panoramica su Ragusa Ibla to watch the golden hues of the sunset painting the buildings followed by the street lights slowly illuminating the alleyways and churches.

Read my complete Guide to Visiting Ragusa: Sicily’s town of two faces.

Modica- the town of chocolate

Modica is another town that belongs to Val di Noto and is particularly famous for its special cold-processed chocolate. Being a huge fan of dark chocolate, I headed directly to the oldest chocolate factory in town- Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, and joined their chocolate tour (with tasting included).

Other than plenty of typical Modica chocolate places, Modica is also renowned for its great baroque architecture. One of the most important architectural masterpieces is the Duomo di San Giorgio . 250 steps leading to it are connecting the lower (basa) and upper (alta) parts of Modica.

Most of the historical part is located in Modica Alta. Therefore there are plenty of steep inclines to deal with. We visited during midday and it was quite a challenge to walk around. Even in mid-May, the heat is already unbearable. For this, we found a cozy Bar del Duomo on the side of Duomo di San Giorgio and ordered chocolate granitas (a must-try in Modica) to cool down.

Other places to add to the itinerary of Val di Noto

• Noto town. We haven’t included Noto in this itinerary but it is probably the most famous town out of all Val di Noto Baroque towns. It is said to be the most beautiful at sunset time when the buildings of the historic town are glowing in golden light.
• Scicli is the smallest town in Val di Noto and can be added to the day trip from Ragusa via Modica as all three towns are relatively close by.

WHERE TO STAY IN RAGUSA?

When choosing our accommodation in Val di Noto, I couldn’t decide between Modica and Ragusa. It turned out that picking Ragusa as our base was the best choice as the town itself is also more charming than Modica. Therefore, if you also have doubts, go for Ragusa.

Amaca Iblea – 9.3/10- A cozy one-bedroom apartment in a historic building featuring fantastic views of Ragusa Ibla. We stayed here and it was one of my favorite places in Sicily. Parking is free but not easy to find in the old town, however, the host will help to sort this out. 53 EUR/57 USD per night. For more info, availability and bookings click HERE .

Epoca – 9.6/10- enchanting rooms in the heart of Ragusa Ibla, has beautiful terrace and breakfast is included, free parking is also available. 132 EUR, 141 USD per night. For more info, availability and booking click HERE .

Giardino Sul Duomo – 9.3/10- modern rooms with wood-beamed ceilings in a guesthouse offering a garden and a pool, a great view of Ragusa Ibla, and some rooms overlooking the Cathedral. 134 EUR/ 144 USD per night. For more info, availability and booking click HERE .

A.D. 178 Boutique Hotel – 9.7/10- gorgeous boutique hotel perfectly combining art, contemporary design, and classic Baroque architecture. Each room is also different. Located at the very heart of Ragusa Ibla. 200 EUR/213 USD per night. For more info, availability and booking click HERE .

From Day 14 our route was meant to continue back to South Italy, through Messina port. We only shortly stopped at a tiny hill-top town of Savoca where some of the Godfather’s scenes were filmed.

However, if we had 3 more days to spare in Sicily, the places suggested below would have been definitely added to the route.

As you may have more time than us, it is likely that you will definitely want to include the following must-visit sights in East Sicily.

DAY 14: Ortigia Island (the historic center of Syracuse) (overnight in Syracuse/Ortigia)

• Driving distance:  approx. 77 KM (47 miles) Ragusa-Syracuse.

The gem of the Eastern part of Sicily is the baroque island of Ortigia (or Ortygia) – in a lack of a better word-an appendix or an extension of the Greek town of Syracuse. 

Pedestrian-friendly Ortigia is renowned for its cultural heritage with a significant Greek influence. A UNESCO landmark, Ortigia was inhabited for over 3000 years and plays an important role in shaping the Mediterranean culture over the centuries.

Today, Ortigia attracts many culture lovers who will have a delightful time exploring its exquisite piazzas with impressive church facades and suggestive tiny streets. Whitewashed sun-kissed houses surrounded by crystalline sea and many restaurants are said to serve the food just as good as the one in Palermo.

Moreover, Ortigia is less touristy than Taormina and more polished than Catania.

Meanwhile, mainland Syracuse is the birthplace of Archimedes (a famous mathematician, philosopher, and inventor) with Neapolis Archeological Park , home to 5 century BC Greek theater, being an important historical attraction. While Valley of Temples in Agrigento is the most significant site showcasing how strong Greek influence was in south-east Sicily, the ruins of Neapolis in Syracuse come close to second.

WHERE TO STAY IN ORTIGIA?

For your reference, and also for my future visit, I have shortlisted the following accommodation options to stay in Ortigia.

Il Duomo – 9.4/10- set in a 19th-century building this accommodation provides good value for money for the central location, a sweet breakfast is also included. 94 EUR/101 USD price per night. Find out more info, availability, and bookings HERE.

B&B Porta Marina Ortigia – 9.2/10- Located in a historical building, the B&B offers classic rooms with balconies and sea views. A sweet and savory breakfast is also included. 152 EUR/ 163 USD per night. Click HERE for more info, availability, and bookings.

Henry’s House – 8.9/10- Located in Ortigia, this unique boutique hotel provides artistically decorated rooms and offers a special experience. A terrace overlooking the sea is available in the common area. Pricey option but definitely popular and different.  246 EUR/ 264 USD per night. Click HERE for more info, availability, and bookings.

DAY 15: Etna hike (afternoon in Taormina) (overnight in Taormina or Catania)

• Driving distance:  approx. 156 KM (97 miles)
• Total driving time:  approx. 2 HR 46 MIN (estimated time if the night is spent in Taormina)

Etna – Europe’s most active volcano , constantly keeping inhabitants of the surrounding villages on edge.  You have probably seen pictures of the mighty volcano spitting lava flames and fuming like a giant dragon.

The active volcano is not something you aim to conquer but you can still take a careful glimpse at its crater from afar. The highest point you can reach in Etna is 3326 meters above sea level.

You have 3 options to visit Etna:

• Self-guided hike (cheapest but hardest option) starting at the base camp of Rifugio Sapienza at 1910 m above sea level. Here you can park your car and start a grueling 1416 meters climb over challenging terrain with very steep inclines.  Recommended only for confident and fit hikers.
• Semi-self-guided hike. You can cut off the grind by taking a cable car from Rifugio Sapienza to 2500 m base (33 EUR per person round trip), and then a 4×4 bus to 2920m (24 EUR per person round trip). From here you will only have to hike the crater area.
• Guided tour . Apparently, the most popular way to visit Etna volcano. The prices of guided tours range significantly. Possibly one of the best deals is this one on Get Your Guide (only 45 EUR per person, not including cable car cost).

It will take you around half a day to visit Etna volcano. After, you have an option either to return to Catania or spend the night there before your flight (depending on your schedule). Or, visit Taormina as an afternoon trip, or even spend a night there before you head back to Catania airport the next day.

Taormina is the most famous mountain town in Sicily featuring an imposing Greek theatre set against the beautiful panorama of the Sicilian coast. It is also the most touristic town in Eastern Sicily. Although Taormina looks pretty in the pictures, we had no intention of visiting it on our trip mainly because of it being overrun by tourists (we experienced over-tourism in Positano, and it was just not for us).

Nonetheless, there is a reason people come to visit certain places.  Undoubtedly Taormina must have its charms and spending a night there might give you an opportunity to enjoy a beautiful sunset and stroll tourist-free old town streets during the early morning or late evening hours.

Since you are in the area, it is also worth stopping by Savoca- a tiny hill-top town famous for the Bar Vitelli , where one of the famous scenes of the Godfather movie was filmed. Note that the bar itself is heavily overpriced, but if you are a fan of the film, it is worth having an espresso in this special place which still keeps the original setup as seen in Godfather.

WHERE TO SPEND A NIGHT IN TAORMINA?

Taormina won’t come cheap as it is a very popular destination. However, there are plenty of options not immediately in the historic center. The below ones got my attention:

B&B GRECO HOME – 9.8/10- beautiful bright room in an accommodation that also offers a common terrace, and continental breakfast, and only 950 meters to the beach is included, private parking is also available. 112 EUR/ 120 USD per night. Click HERE for more info, availability, and booking.

Villa Le Terrace Charming Rooms- 9.5/10- situated outside the busy Taormina historic center Villa Le Terrace features a fantastic terrace with mount Etna views. Rooms also have balconies with a fantastic panorama. 160 EUR/ 170 USD per night. Click HERE for more info, availability, and booking.

DAY 16: Catania (flight day)

• Driving distance:  approx. 70 KM (43 miles)
• Total driving time:  approx. 1 HR  (driving time from Taormina to Catania International Airport)

And that’s a wrap for our Sicilian road trip, sadly…  But with a strong feeling that we will soon be coming back to this gorgeous Mediterranean island of Italy.

I hope you will find this 14-day Sicily itinerary inspiring and useful when planning your own Sicily road trip. If you have any questions regarding traveling around Sicily, do not hesitate to drop me a message.

More Italy travel guides and resources

Sicily travel guides.

• Useful Tips for Renting a Car in Sicily and Driving Stress-Free
• Renting a car in Catania, Sicily
• Renting a car in Palermo: what you need to know
• Epic Road Trip for 2-weeks in Sicily itinerary
• Essential Sicily Travel Tips .
• 21 spectacular places to visit in Sicily 
• How to visit Favignana island, Sicily
• Guide to hiking Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve
• Visit Gangi mountain town in Sicily
• The most beautiful small coastal towns and fishing villages in Sicily.
• The most charming mountain towns in Sicily .
• Which is better: Amalfi Coast or Sicily?

General Italy travel guides

• Browse all my  blog posts about Italy   HERE .
• Looking for romantic road trip ideas in Italy? Check my list of  15 Best Road Trips in Italy.
• Thinking of renting a car in Rome? Read my guide to  How to rent a car in Rome .
• Explore Calabria- the least visited region in Italy.
• Visit Sicily- the biggest island in Italy.

Italy travel resources

Here are links to essential travel resources and services I always use when organizing my trips.

• HIRE A CAR : Rent a car at the best rates at Discover Cars .
• CHEAP FLIGHTS: find the cheapest and the best flight combinations with Skyscanner .
• ACCOMMODATION: find your perfect stay on Booking.com .
• VISA: apply for a Schengen visa easily at iVisa . Use OneWayFly to reserve dummy flight tickets/hotels if required for your visa application.
• eSIM CARD: Stay connected before you land. Airlo offers an eSIM card with up to 20 GB (7 to 30 days) data packages for Italy and Europe for reasonable rates.
• GUIDED TOURS:  Find the best day tours in Italy on  GetYourGuide , outdoor tours and activities with Manawa .
• PRIVATE TRANSFER: Book a private transfer to any location in Italy with GetTransfer .
• FLIGHT GOT CANCELLED OR DELAYED? You may receive compensation of up to 600 EUR. Consult and get support from AirHelp or Skycop .

Hi! I am a freelance photographer & videographer as well the creator of www.theroadreel.com. Born in Lithuania, and currently residing in the UAE, I have been traveling around the globe independently for over a decade. I created The Road Reel to share my passion for travel and photography through detailed road trips and city itineraries, and hiking guides, along with regular and drone photogragraphy tips.

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How to Plan a Perfect Sicily Road Trip Itinerary (7-14 Days)

Want to plan an amazing Sicily road trip where you get a taste of everything that makes Sicily special? Like the well-preserved ruins from Greek and Roman (sometimes even before that!) times, the amazing bounty of fresh produce from fruits and vegetables to pistachios, and the sheer amount of natural beauty from the slopes of Mount Etna to the beaches of western Sicily.

In this detailed Sicily itinerary, we’ll help you plan a trip that sees all of those things and more. 

But first, why should you trust us?

We spent over three weeks on our own Sicily road trip, and loved every second of it. In fact, the majority of this guide was written while we were on the island, when the information and tips were completely fresh and details were still vivid in our minds.

Alysha’s grandparents were born in the small town of Melilli, near Siracusa, and emigrated to the United States from there just a few generations ago. She has wanted to visit Sicily for years, and we finally made it happen in 2021. 

Of course, I totally recognize that you only really care about our experience if it helps inform your trip planning. So we’ve put together an itinerary that uses our own personal experience on a road trip around Sicily to help you plan an amazing trip. 

In the guide below – which is very, very long – we’ll go through everything you need to know to plan your trip to Sicily. We’ll start with some very important basics – like how many days you need to see both eastern and western Sicily, and the best route to see the island in two weeks – and then we’ll go through a day-by-day, super detailed itinerary for two weeks in Sicily. 

Don’t have two weeks to spend? We get it, vacation time is limited (at least for us Americans). Which is why we’ve included our take on ways to structure a 7 and 10 day road trip in Sicily ABOVE the actual itinerary, so you can still use the information in the itinerary to plan your own trip even if it’s not a full two weeks. 

Sound good? Off we go to Sicily!

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post, like hotel links, are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we make a little bit of money if you click through and book. That being said, we would never recommend something to you that we don’t stand behind 100%.

How Many Days Do You Need in Sicily?

At a high level, we think you’re going to need at least two weeks (14 days) to see both eastern and western Sicily . Anything less than that and you’d need to cut some of the best sights in each region to try and fit it all in, which we would absolutely not recommend. 

Even two weeks is going to mean you’re just seeing the highlights. We’ve done our best to pick and choose between places you could go based on our own personal experiences exploring the island, but even with three weeks we made some tough decisions on things to skip. 

Any 7 or 10 day itinerary that has you spending one night in each place is unpractical (impractical doesn’t fit with the “un” thing I’ve got going on here – forgive me), unrealistic, and unpleasant.

Believe me, we’ve done things that way on previous trips, and choosing to spend more time in fewer places is almost always a good decision. 

With that in mind, if you have less than two weeks in Sicily, focus your time on either eastern or western Sicily, take your time, and explore a little deeper. 

The complete itinerary we’ve put together below is for 14 days, but we’ve also got a section outlining what to do with less time above that to help you figure out how to spend your time with 7-10 days.

The good news is that, once you’ve decided on a route, you can read through the relevant sections of the detailed itinerary (and let’s be clear, we do mean DETAILED) to give you an idea of what to do and see, where to stay, how to get places, and more. 

Where to Start and End Your Trip

The short answer is “it depends.” And it depends on two main factors. 

The first thing it depends on is your mode of transportation to get to Sicily. There are two main hubs in terms of flying to Sicily – Catania and Palermo.

Messina, the northeastern tip of the island, is where you’ll arrive if you’re driving or taking the train from the mainland (both involve a ferry).

The second thing it depends on is how much time you have.

Like we mentioned above (and you’ll hear us say it over and over again below, because we think it’s that important), you really can’t see the entire island in 7-10 days. Or even 14 days, really, but we think that’s the minimum amount of time you need to hit both eastern and western Sicily in your itinerary. 

If you have 7-10 days , you’ll want to focus on one side of the island or the other, which means you can fly in and out of the same airport (either Catania or Palermo). 

If you have 14 days , it works best if you fly into one (or ferry to Messina) and fly out of the other, which will save you three to four hours of driving, but will cost a little extra in terms of rental car, which will likely incur a one-way fee.

This is how we have the detailed itinerary below structured, just know that if you want to fly in and out of the same airport at the beginning and end of your trip, it’s going to add some driving and it’s going to be less convenient. 

We think the cost is worth the added convenience and time saved, but you might feel differently, so we want to give you the option!

Getting Around Sicily

There’s really only one thing you need to know about getting around Sicily: you need a car once you’re outside of the major cities, which are basically Palermo and Catania (and we’d add Syracuse just because it’s so compact and walkable). 

Do You Need to Rent a Car in Sicily?

In short, most likely. Renting a car is the only way you’re going to be able to get to some of the beaches and sites that are outside of city centers. Once you get outside the center of most cities in Sicily, public transportation is spotty at best, and nonexistent at worst. 

Can you cobble together an itinerary that uses only public transportation? Yes. Will you be missing out on some of the more far flung destinations in Sicily that ended up being among our favorite places? Also yes.

Renting a car will give you the most flexibility and autonomy to explore at your own pace. HOWEVER. We recommend avoiding having a rental car in big cities like Palermo, Catania, and even Syracuse, where you won’t need it if you follow the itinerary below, and it’s more of a hassle than a benefit. 

For that reason, we’d recommend picking up your car AFTER you visit Catania and Syracuse, and returning it BEFORE arriving in Palermo . It’ll also save you money on parking and gas, bonus!

One thing to know is that if you can’t drive a manual (stick shift) car, you’re going to pay a hefty premium for an automatic transmission. We know that, because we can’t drive a manual. Most cars in Sicily are manual transmission, and this is not the place to learn how to drive a stick. 

We rented through AutoEurope and had a lovely experience from picking up the keys in Siracusa to dropping them off at the airport in Palermo. We’d highly recommend getting some level of insurance, because stuff happens in Sicily. Particularly car stuff, with tiny narrow alleys and reckless driving all over the place. Click here to check prices and availability for a rental car through Auto Europe. 

Driving in Sicily

You’ve probably heard that driving in Sicily is a nightmare. And, in some ways, that’s true. It’s not for nervous drivers, or for people who aren’t comfortable driving in the best of scenarios.

Here are a few tips we’ve gleaned from our Sicily road trip to help you navigate the (sometimes wild) streets of Sicily. 

First, forget the rules you thought you knew – right of way and yielding, following speed limit signs, and the like – driving in Sicily is much more of an organic experience. People go with the flow, consider any signage as a mere suggestion rather than a rule, and it somehow all works out at the end of the day. 

Even our guide for our trip to Mount Etna, who grew up in Catania, said he hates driving in the city. As we sat at a stoplight in the heart of Catania, we watched not one but two separate cars pull up next to us, look around, and drive right through the red light.

See? Said our guide. A suggestion. 

Driving in Sicily was not as bad as I thought it was going to be, but it was vastly different from driving at home and in other countries we’ve driven in. Here are a few things to keep in mind. 

• ZTLs : Many cities have a zone in the center where you cannot drive without a local residential permit. These areas are marked with signs that say “Zona Traffico Limitato” with hours and dates posted. Sometimes, your accommodations will be in that zone, which means you should not drive to the hotel. Park outside the ZTL (more on parking in the next bullet) and walk in, or message your hotel in advance and ask them what the best way to reach them with a car would be.
• Parking : Always have an idea of where you want to park before you arrive somewhere. Search “parcheggio” on Google maps to find parking lots (usually paid, though some are free). Or wing it and try to find street parking. No marking or white curb? It’s free (though look out for limited times – e.g. 30 minute parking). Blue lines or curb? You pay at a pay station, which can usually be found nearby and often only take coins.
• Roundabouts : Listen, I’m 100% on board with roundabouts after a Freakonomics episode on how they save lives and money. But the way Italians handle them, I’m not sure they can possibly save lives. Yield to traffic in both directions, because there’s no guarantee they will return the courtesy. This is really only a problem in cities. 
• Speed Limits : Signage is actually pretty good – look for signs with a white circle with a red outline and a number in the middle. However, almost nobody follows them. There were countless times on one of the main highways where I’d be dutifully going the speed limit, and I’d be passed by literally every car that came by. And those no passing signs (or double white lines)? Don’t expect anyone to follow them. Two lane roads often become three and four lanes with people passing going in both directions. 

Public Transportation in Sicily

Public transportation is an okay option for visiting very specific parts of the island. It can be very useful for getting between cities on the east coast, for example. But where public transportation falls flat is getting outside major cities. 

As an example, we really enjoyed getting outside of Noto to the Vendicari Reserve and Marzamemi, and it was one of our favorite afternoons in Sicily. You would have a very, very hard time doing that without a car. In fact, it would be nearly impossible. 

If you’re okay with sticking to the main cities and tourist attractions – for example, on the east coast Taormina, Catania, and Siracusa – then public transportation will work. If you’re interested in doing some exploring and getting one foot off the beaten path, you’re going to need a car. 

Trains – through Trenitalia – are an option on the east coast (and eastern Sicily in general) in the corridor between Messina and Siracusa, but buses through Interbus are often a faster, cheaper, and overall better option for getting between places in Sicily due to the number of transfers you’ll need to make on trains.

Planning Your Sicily Itinerary: Route Options

It bears repeating in case you missed it above: Sicily is massive. It’s the largest island in the Mediterranean at just under 10,000 square miles, which means there’s just no possible way you’re going to see everything there is to see in 7, 10, or 14 days.

It’s about picking and choosing, and we’re here to help you make some decisions on what to pick and choose based on our own personal experience road tripping around Sicily. 

With only 7 or 10 days, we think you should choose between eastern and western Sicily and focus your time on just one, rather than trying to zip around and see the entire island in a short period.

By the way, we have an entire separate guide dedicated to helping you make the most of 7 days in Sicily , if you only have a week on the island.

With 14 days or more, we think you can see the entire island, but it will still feel a bit rushed . For context, we had three weeks, and there are still places we missed entirely and are already thinking about planning the return trip. 

The detailed itinerary below gives you a complete 14 day Sicily road trip itinerary, which includes stops along the east, south, and western parts of the island. If you have two weeks in Sicily, that would be a good place to start. 

But what if you have less time?

Here are some itinerary options for those of you who have 7 or 10 days. We’re giving you options for the eastern and western parts of Sicily too!

You can then take your shorter itinerary and use the information below in the detailed itinerary to plan out what to do and see and where to stay in each place. 

7 Days in Sicily

If you have a week, you should head straight to our guide to spending 7 days in Sicily , where we go into detail on how to spend 7 days on either the eastern half of the island OR the western half of the island. 

Again, we really, really discourage you from trying to see it all in just seven days.

You’ll end up rushing through everything and it won’t be nearly as satisfying as taking it a little slower and having the time to stop at that random cafe you stumble upon for an afternoon granita, or an aperol spritz on the coast. 

Eastern Sicily in 7 Days

If you want to focus on eastern Sicily, which includes gems like Mount Etna, Taormina, and Syracuse (among other things), here’s our best thinking on how to spend your time. 

• Day 1: Arrive in Catania & Explore
• Day 2: Pick up Car and Taormina
• Day 3: Day Trip to Mount Etna (Stay in Taormina)
• Day 4: Syracuse & Ortigia
• Day 5: Syracuse & Ortigia
• Day 6: Val di Noto (Beaches & Marzamemi)
• Day 7: Val di Noto & Fly Home from Catania

Western Sicily in 7 Days

In Western Sicily, here’s an idea of how to spend your time. 

• Day 1: Arrive in Palermo & Explore
• Day 2: Palermo
• Day 3: Day Trip to Cefalu (Sleep in Palermo)
• Day 4: Pick up Rental Car, Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro, San Vito Lo Capo
• Day 5: Segesta & Drive to Trapani
• Day 6: Day Trip to Erice from Trapani
• Day 7: Fly Home from Palermo

10 Days in Sicily

If you have 10 days, you’ll be able to add a few other destinations in either region, but we really think you should still focus on either western or eastern Sicily, not both. 

Eastern Sicily in 10 Days

With 10 days, add on Agrigento, home of the Valley of the Temples, and a stop in Modica or Ragusa along the way.

One other thing to note: you can fly out of either Palermo or Catania here since they’re roughly equidistant. It’s worth checking prices, but it’ll probably be cheaper to fly in and out of the same airport if we had to guess. 

• Day 2: Pick up Car Early & Drive to Taormina
• Day 6: Val di Noto
• Day 7: Val di Noto
• Day 8: Agrigento (Stop in Modica & Ragusa along the way)
• Day 9: Agrigento (Valley of the Temples)
• Day 10: Fly Home from either Palermo or Catania (Equidistant)

Western Sicily

With 10 days in Western Sicily, add on a few extra days out on the coast, using Trapani as your home base. 

• Day 3: Day Trip to Cefalu
• Day 4: Pick Up Car & Drive to Castellammare del Golfo
• Day 5: Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro (Stay in Castellammare del Golfo)
• Day 6: Segesta & San Vito Lo Capo
• Day 7: Trapani (Day trip to Erice)
• Day 8: Selinunte & Drive to Agrigento
• Day 9: Agrigento (Valley of the Temples) 
• Day 10: Fly Home from Palermo

Two Weeks in Sicily

Finally! 14 days in Sicily means you can squeeze in the main sights in both halves of Sicily (though you’ll still be making some decisions in terms of what to see and what to save for a future trip).

This version of the Sicily itinerary works best if you fly into either Catania or Palermo, and fly out of the other city.

In other words, it’s best done as a one way itinerary, which means you might be paying a premium for an open jaw flight (a flight that flies into one city and out of another) and a rental car, which often include a one-way fee. 

For what it’s worth, we did it as a one way trip, and feel the extra cost is worth the convenience.

However, if you don’t agree with that assessment, it’s easy enough to do it in and out of a single airport. You’ll just have to budget some extra time (three to four hours with traffic) of driving back from one end of the island to the other. 

You can do this road trip in either direction . We did it east to west, which is why it’s oriented that way here, but you can pretty easily flip it. 

Another note: You aren’t going to want to have a car in either Palermo, Catania, or Syracuse . Pick up the car when you’re ready to leave either city, and drop it off before you head into the city to explore. You won’t need a car once you’re in the city. 

Here’s the itinerary for two weeks in Sicily, which you’ll find in much greater detail below.

Day 2: Day Trip to Taormina (Stay in Catania)

Day 3: day trip to mount etna (stay in catania).

• Day 6: Pick up Rental Car & Drive to Noto
• Day 7: Val di Noto (Beaches & Marzamemi)
• Day 8: Drive to Agrigento (Stop in Modica along the way)
• Day 9: Agrigento (Valley of the Temples) Day 10: Selinunte, Segesta, and Drive to Castellammare del Golfo
• Day 11: Day Trip to Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro (Sleep in Castellammare del Golfo)
• Day 12: Drop off Rental Car at Palermo Airport & Palermo
• Day 13: Palermo
• Day 14: Fly Home from Palermo

There are two main things missing from this itinerary that would be the first additions we’d make with extra time. The first is a day trip to Cefalu from Palermo, which is a lovely beach town along the northern coast of Sicily. The second is a stop in Trapani to visit the hilltop town of Erice, which has some great views, but wasn’t exactly our favorite place in the world (which is why it got relegated to the “more time” section after we did it). 

In the “More Time?” section below the detailed itinerary, you’ll find our thoughts on what to do and see in both of those places. 

A Complete Guide to Planning a Two Week Sicily Road Trip

Now that we’ve got all the important information you need to know to plan your trip to Sicily, onto the complete guide to planning your Sicily itinerary! 

Please note that in this itinerary, you do not need a rental car for the first five days . Our recommendation – and this is exactly what we did – is to pick up your rental car in Syracuse, before driving to Noto . This way, you avoid driving and parking in two of the more stressful cities on this itinerary (Catania and Syracuse). 

Then, plan on dropping your rental car off in Palermo (at the airport) as you arrive – you do not need a rental car in Palermo either, and it’s equally chaotic and stressful to drive there (if not more so).

This also has the added benefit of saving you a little bit of money, since you are cutting four to five days of rental car costs (gas, parking, tolls, etc). 

There is one implication here, which we will touch on in the Mount Etna section below, and that implication is that you will not be able to reach the summit of Etna because of the way the timing, tours, and public transit connections work out.

If getting to the summit of Etna is a must-do for you, then you will need to rent a car so that you can arrive in Refugio de Sapienza before 9:00 am, which is when the summit tours depart. 

Note that I do mean the summit, which is only accessible by guided tour and in good conditions. You can still get up to the Torre del Filosofo and the Laghetto Crater via public transit or a guided tour from Catania.

That’s probably good enough for most people, including us, but it’s worth calling out as an implication of the way we’ve structured this Sicily road trip itinerary. 

With that out of the way, off you go to explore Sicily!

Day 1: Exploring Catania

On your first day, you’ll be arriving in Catania, the second biggest city in Sicily and, in many ways, the forgotten city in Sicily. 

I say the forgotten city because a lot of people – I’d venture to guess the majority – skip Catania altogether in favor of places like Taormina and Syracuse, which we think would be a mistake for two reasons.

First, there’s no better place for exploring Catania, Mount Etna, and Taormina than, well, Catania. It has the best connections for getting to all those places. Your other option is Taormina, which isn’t as well-connected AND is more expensive (though it is pretty damn charming). 

Second, Catania is worth a day in its own right! There are a couple of very cool things to do, see, and eat in Catania, and it’s a good introduction to Eastern Sicily and Etna’s history.

Catania has been around for millennia – there is evidence of humans going back to the Neolithic Era – and has been home to Greeks, Romans, and multiple other groups and combinations of people over that time. It’s literally a city built on top of a city built on top of another city, as you’ll learn over the course of your time there.

In the 17th Century CE, Catania was affected by two natural disasters in a span of 24 years. First, in 1669, was the eruption of Mount Etna, which didn’t have any major effects on the city in terms of destruction, but did permanently alter the north and western sides of the city, and pushed the coastline out two kilometers further into the sea (which is NUTS). Then came the big one. 

In 1693, a 7.4 magnitude earthquake leveled most of Catania, and the city had to be largely rebuilt, along with most of the rest of Eastern Sicily. And from those ashes, Sicilian Baroque architecture was born. 

Like we said, lots of history here, and well worth a day of your time to understand the context around the places you’re going to be seeing on the first half of this road trip, roughly. 

Things to Do in Catania

Here is a collection of things we enjoyed in Catania , in no particular order. Note that you won’t find any of the many day trips we did from Catania here, because you’re doing Taormina and Mount Etna over the course of the next two days. 

• Guided Tour of the Benedictine Monastery : Part history lesson, part beautiful building, this was our favorite experience in Catania. It was one of the biggest monasteries in Europe, and the hour-long guided tour takes you down underground to learn about the history of the building and the city as a whole, as it happens to be a great example of how the city adapted to the lava flows from the 1669 eruption. At the time of writing, you had to reserve your spot in advance, which you can learn more about here .
• Granita : Granita is a delicacy in Sicily, and you’ll find it at just about every cafe and pasticceria on the island. But what is it? It’s basically ice cream without the cream. It’s a combination of ice, sugar, and seasonal local ingredients like pistacchio, almond, fruits like lemons and strawberries, and even coffee. It’s delicious. Our favorite in Catania was at Caffetteria Villaroel ( here on Google Maps) – get the pistacchio if they have it!
• Teatro Romano di Catania : The first of many Roman theaters you will see on this itinerary, this is a great example of how the city is literally built on top of an old city. You’ll see the modern buildings of Catania as we know it today towering over an excavated Roman theater that was built in the 300s BCE. It’s worth an hour of your time, and there is some okay signage (with some iffy Google Translate English translations) to help you understand what you’re looking at. Book tickets in advance here (required when we were there), or buy when you get there. 
• Eating in Catania : The food in Sicily is outstanding, and Catania is a great introduction. The fertile volcanic soil of Etna is known for producing great produce, wine, and nuts. First of all, we’d be negligent if we didn’t mention the raucous and energetic fish market , which our apartment happened to be right on top of. It’s not just fish – there’s local vendors selling meat, cheese, fruits and vegetables, and nuts – all coming from nearby. It takes place every day except Sunday just south of Piazza del Duomo. You should make an effort to try pasta alla norma in Catania, which is a combination of pasta, tomatoes, eggplant, and salty ricotta salata (which is delicious, we might add).

For more of our favorite things to do in Catania, make sure to read our more detailed guide here . 

Where to Stay in Catania

You’ll be using Catania as a home base for the first three days of this itinerary, so keep that in mind when you’re choosing a place to stay. 

At a high level, the best place to stay in Catania is between Piazza del Duomo and Villa Bellini . 

I’d avoid going more than two or three blocks east or west of Via Etnea, if you can. We stayed right off of Piazza del Duomo – right over the fish market – and it was a phenomenal location in terms of centrality and walkability.

Well worth the slightly fishy aroma drifting up from the street below in the afternoons, when we were hanging out with the windows open. 

We stayed at Duomo Housing Catania – the deluxe apartment, specifically – which was gigantic compared to some other places we’ve stayed in Italy.

Seriously, it’s almost as big as our old apartment in San Francisco. We should note that if we were to do it again, we’d choose the apartment with a terrace which is smaller, but has a nice view of the Duomo.

If you’re on a budget, we had originally booked the Yard Hostel in Catania , but at the time we were traveling we weren’t quite sure about being in a place with so many shared facilities, so we ultimately cancelled.

We were really excited about it, even though it’s a few blocks north of Villa Bellini. They have dorms and private rooms, and it gets consistently stellar reviews. 

Here are some other options in the area that we’ve picked out for you.

• Le Suites Del Duomo House – another option for apartments on Piazza del Duomo. 
• Ferrini Home – Etnea Collection – excellent apartments at the northern end of Via Etnea.
• Habitat – a stunning and stylish boutique hotel a few blocks west of Via Etnea.

On your second day, take a day trip up the coast to Taormina, a lovely little seaside town up on a hill with great views and a spectacular ancient theater that’s well worth the trip. 

Remember, you’re staying back in Catania on this night (if you’re following our advice of picking up your car at the end of your time in Syracuse). 

Getting to Taormina

Without a car, you have two options for getting to Taormina from Catania. You can either take the train from Catania Centrale (Catania’s main train station), which is about 15-20 minutes from Piazza del Duomo on foot, or you can take a bus through Interbus. 

The train is faster at 35-60 minutes or so (depending on whether you choose the faster Intercity train or the slower and cheaper regional trains) but drops you off at the bottom of the hill under Taormina.

You can either walk up the hill (that’s what we did) in 20 minutes or so, or take the bus (Interbus, again) that goes up the hill from the train station and costs 1.90 Euros.

Book through Trenitalia from Catania Centrale to Taormina-Giardini (the train station at the bottom of the hill).

Here’s the route that you’ll follow to walk from the train station to the center of town. 

The bus – through Interbus – takes longer, but drops you off much, much closer to town, and is the way that our Mount Etna guide recommended. We took the train and walked from the train station up the hill, which wasn’t bad at all even though there was a torrential downpour when we were there.

The bus is a bit slower – taking about 75 minutes to complete the journey – but it’s direct and cheaper at 5.50 Euros each way.

You have to pick up the bus from close to Catania Centrale – here is the location on Google Maps .

Overall, both are good options, though the bus being more frequent, direct, and cheaper makes it a more attractive option for most people.  

Things to Do in Taormina

Here is a collection of things we enjoyed in Taormina, in no particular order. You can essentially spend as much or as little time in Taormina as you’d like, but be aware of train and bus schedules so that you know when you need to be heading back (and don’t get stuck waiting for an hour).

• The Greek Theater : The first stop you should make is the spectacular Teatro Antico di Taormina, which sits at the top of a hill with amazing sea views from the seating area. They hold concerts and shows here, and I’d definitely recommend seeing if there’s anything going on around the time when you’re in town and shaping which day you do Taormina around that. More information here .
• Granite at Bam Bar : After all that walking, you deserve a treat. And Bam Bar should be your treat of choice. Come for the granita, which is so good that we actually went twice in the span of a couple of hours, stay for the pastries and aperitivo as evening approaches. They’re known for granita, and the rotating flavors are posted on the board under the canopy. Get a seat outside for some good people watching.  
• Wander along Corso Umberto : Corso Umberto is the main, pedestrian-only street running through the heart of Taormina, and is full of shops, bars, and restaurants. It’s absolutely packed with tourists, but it’s worth a stroll. Stop to admire the views and the church at Piazza IX Aprile, you might even be lucky enough to catch a wedding, like we did!
• Hike up to Chiesa Madonna della Rocca : For an exquisite view over Taormina and the water beyond, make the steep climb up to this church on a hill (find it here on Google Maps). The views are stunning. You can continue up to Castello di Mola allll the way at the top of the hill for even better views, but it’s quite the climb. Consider taking a taxi up, then walking back down. There are some good restaurants up there for lunch, too. 
• Hit the Beach! Isola Bella is at the base of the hill tucked away in a protected cove. It’s a small island that, at low tide, is connected to the mainland via a narrow walking path. We were in Taormina during a period of intense thunderstorms, so we skipped the beach for obvious reasons, but it’s easy to get to from town. You can either take the cable car (info here ) or walk down. We’d suggest walking down, and taking the cable car back up. There’s another, more sandy but less unique beach just north of Isola Bella at Mazzaro. 

If you don’t have a car, you essentially have two options for visiting Mount Etna from Catania: go with a guided tour, or use the limited public transportation to get there and back and explore on your own. 

The third option, which does involve a visit to the summit if you want – is only relevant if you have a car, and involves driving up to Rifugio Sapienza – which is essentially the gateway to Etna – and either meeting up with a guided summit tour that departs at 9:00 am, or exploring on your own.

There’s no doubt that this is probably the easiest, most convenient option for most people who want to visit the summit. But it also involves extra days of a rental car, parking in Catania, and parking in Syracuse, all of which are a bit of a nightmare. 

Visiting Mount Etna on a Guided Tour from Catania

Ultimately, this is the option we chose to go with, and we’re generally pretty happy we did. These tours include transportation from the center of Catania, which is handy if you don’t have a car because, as we’ll cover in a second, public transportation is nearly nonexistent.

There are two types of tours to choose from – tours that visit the usual tourist areas, and tours that go a little off the beaten path. We chose the latter option, and were glad we did because we saw a total of eight other people over the course of the day (that is, until we got to Rifugio Sapienza and saw where all the people were). 

If you want to hike and explore the area around Mount Etna, we did this tour with Marco , a Catania native, and would recommend it. The other option we had was this tour , which is very similar (but wasn’t available on the day we wanted to go). 

If you’re not as excited about hiking , we’d suggest either this sunset jeep tour , or this day trip from Catania , which includes some hiking around the craters.  

Visiting Mount Etna On Your Own

Keep in mind that, as we discuss this option, we’re talking about doing it without a rental car. Visiting Etna with a rental car is relatively easy – just drive to Rifugio Sapienza, park the car, and take the cable car up to do some hiking. 

Without a rental car is a bit more complicated. 

There is, at the time of writing, exactly one bus from Catania to Rifugio Sapienza , and one bus from there back to Catania. The bus leaves from near Catania Centrale at 8:15 am, and arrives at Etna at around 10:30 am. The bus back to Catania leaves at exactly 4:30 pm (16:30) and arrives back in Catania at around 6:30 pm (18:30). 

As you can see, that timing is problematic if you want to meet one of those guided tours up to the summit, which leaves promptly at 9:00 am from the cable car station near the Rifugio. 

Our recommendation based on research and a conversation with our guide is to pay the extra money for the cable car that takes you up to the craters. It’ll cost you 30 Euros for a roundtrip (return) ticket, but it cuts out a stretch of hiking that doesn’t sound enjoyable, particularly in the heat of the summer months. You could hike, and usually we’re pretty up for hiking, but this hike is neither scenic nor pleasant.

Once you reach the top of the cable car, you have two options. The option we’d recommend is hiking, which is more scenic, and is free. You’ll climb another 500 or so meters up to the craters, and this hike is more scenic because you’ll find yourself in the heart of the volcanic landscapes that make Etna such an otherworldly experience. 

Here’s a fantastic guide to visiting Etna using public transportation that we’d recommend reading if you’re going to go this route. 

Day 4 & 5: Syracuse & Ortigia

When it comes to my limited knowledge of eastern Sicily prior to starting to do research for our trip, Syracuse was one of two places I was familiar with. And the reason is kind of funny, and is actually fairly relevant. 

Growing up, I used to play hours and hours of Rome: Total War , a video game where you set out as a faction in Europe (usually Roman) to build an empire (mostly through violence and betrayal).

Syracuse was always an important city in that particular game because it sat on an island – Sicily – that was a perfect base between Italy, Spain , North Africa, and Greece. 

That also happens to be true in the real world. The city was founded by Greeks, and it became a very powerful player in the Mediterranean power game before becoming a part of the Roman Empire, and it was briefly the capital of the Byzantine Empire in the late 7th Century.

Then, it changed hands between the Aghlabids – a kingdom of Muslims from North Africa – who held it for two centuries before it was reconquered by the Byzantines. 

All of those influences are apparent as you explore the twin cities of Syracuse and Ortigia, from the prevalence of couscous in the cuisine (hailing from North Africa) to the ruins at the archaeological park that are great examples of Greek and Roman architecture. 

Like most of eastern Sicily, the architecture of the city was changed forever with the earthquake of 1693, so you won’t see as many examples of those influences on the buildings of Syracuse since the city was essentially rebuilt in the 18th and 19th Centuries. 

The entire city is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which has helped to preserve the city’s architecture from overdevelopment due to tourism. It’s one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sicily, so you’re likely to hear all sorts of different languages as you’re walking around. Especially if there’s a massive cruise ship in the port. 

A Quick Geography Lesson

This is important, which is why we’ve decided to add a quick blurb here to make sure you know what we’re talking about below. 

“Syracuse” refers to the city on the mainland, which is connected to a little island called “Ortigia” which is famous for its narrow cobblestone streets and magnificent sea views. 

You’ll want to stay in Ortigia, which is the more charming, romantic part of the city, but the most important sight in Syracuse – the Parco Archeologico Neapolis – is on the mainland, about 30 minutes away from Ortigia on foot. 

You’ll spend most of your time in Ortigia, with a journey out to the park to see the incredible Greek and Roman ruins found there. 

Getting to Siracusa

Syracuse is another place that we’d recommend avoiding driving, and frankly, you won’t need a car anyway since it’s relatively compact – you’d essentially just park the car and leave it until you’re ready to head to your next destination. 

Plan on taking the train from Catania Centrale to Siracusa (book through Trenitalia ), or the bus through Interbus (you can pick up the bus from Piazza Borsellino , which is a short walk from Piazza del Duomo). 

You should know that the train station in Syracuse is a good 20-25 minute walk from Ortigia, so you’ll either want to plan on walking or grab a taxi from the train station. 

Things to Do in Syracuse & Ortigia

Here are some of our favorite things to do in Syracuse and Ortigia. We’re going to start with a section on the Parco Archeologico Neapolis – the most important and popular sight – and then give you some other things to do and see while you’re here. 

Visiting the Parco Archeologico Neapolis

By far the most popular tourist attraction in the city is the Archaeological Park , where you’ll find both a Greek AND Roman theater, along with beautiful gardens full of citrus trees, limestone quarries, and more. 

It’s well worth a couple of hours of your time, which is about the amount of time it will take you to walk through the three main areas of the park – the Greek Theater, the Roman Theater, and the limestone quarries and gardens around the Latomia del Paradiso. 

You can buy a combo ticket that includes the Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi (about 15 minutes away on foot), which is worth a visit if you’re REALLY into archaeology, but we found it very overwhelming. It has literally hundreds of pieces of pottery from various eras, among other artifacts, though the pygmy elephant skeletons were adorable. 

After the park, we didn’t really have the brainpower or attention span for it, but it might have gone better if we had split the two activities up on different days. 

We’d highly, highly, highly recommend getting to the park at 8:30 am when it opens for two reasons. One, because it gets crazy busy starting around 10:00 am, which will give you a couple of hours head start to see some of the park in relative peace and quiet. Two, because in the summer it gets miserably hot and there’s not a whole lot of shade. 

It costs 10 Euros per person for the park only, and 13.50 Euros for a combo ticket that includes the Museo Paolo Orsi.

More Things to Do in Siracusa and Ortigia

Here are some other things to do in Syracuse and Ortigia. 

• Walk the Perimeter at Sunset : One of our favorite things to do in Ortigia was to just walk. And we ended up walking the entire perimeter of the island three times. It’s gorgeous, particularly in that sweet, soft light that happens within an hour of sunrise or sunset. It’d be a good pre-Aperitivo activity, and if you do it from the northeastern tip to the western end, you’ll be in a good position to grab a spritz at the end of the walk. Make a stop at the Castello Maniace along the way. Something like this would be a good route. 
• The Underground Tour : There’s a fascinating and relatively quick tour of the Chiesa di San Filippo Apostolo in the old Jewish Quarter that takes you into the crypts below the church (which is built on top of a synagogue), and then into the underground tunnels that were used to shelter civilians during the Allied bombings in World War 2. Pretty fascinating stuff, and an interesting way to experience the history of Syracuse from a different point of view. Tours in English and Italian are roughly every half hour in the afternoon, and are donation based (we donated five Euros for the two of us). 
• Gelateria Gusto : Incredibile pistacchio granita, though they’re also known for great gelato. 
• Sabadì Cioccolato : If you’re not making it to Modica (if you follow this itinerary, you will), then you should stop by here to try some Modica chocolate , which we found to be amazing and slightly different from the chocolate we’re used to. It’s cooked slowly at a lower temperature, which means the sugar doesn’t dissolve, and they don’t add cocoa butter in. Combined, the result is a slightly grainy texture, which reminds me a lot of chocolate in Mexico that is stoneground. You can get it plain, or with all sorts of fun flavor combinations, and this place – which is right near Piazza del Duomo – is a good place to get an introduction to it with tons of flavors you can sample and buy. 
• Aperitivo and the Sunset : Grab a drink around sunset (really, get there 30-45 minutes early to grab a seat) at one of the many bars along the southwestern tip of the island. Our picks would be Mikatu for their wines, but we got thwarted by thunderstorms BOTH nights we were there. Other good options without the view are Enoteca Solaria (for amazing wine) and Verga (for the picturesque courtyard and cocktails).

Where to Stay in Syracuse & Ortigia

It’s worth repeating: stay in Ortigia! Even if you’re on a tight budget, we think you’ll regret staying in the far less charming mainland area, even if you’ll save a few pennies. 

We stayed at Stay in Ortigia Guest House , a group of stylish apartments right in the heart of Ortigia near the Temple of Apollo on a quiet side street. The apartments are compact, but have full kitchens, modern decor, and access to laundry (which we desperately needed at this point in our Italy trip). We’d recommend it, especially if you’re looking for an apartment with a kitchen. 

Here are some other options that were on our shortlist for Ortigia. 

• Alla Giudecca : We walked by this place multiple times as we did a circle around the perimeter of Ortigia at sunrise and sunset, and noticed the rooms with balconies facing the ocean and said “yeah, that looks pretty nice.” 
• Dimore delle Zagare Ortigia : This is a historic B&B in the ever-charming Jewish Quarter of Ortigia, which was our favorite part of the island to get lost in. The location is great in terms of being central to just about everything you’ll want to see in Ortigia, and you can choose between hotel-style rooms and suites with a little more space (and, in some cases, a balcony!). 

Day 6 & 7: Val di Noto

Drive Time & Distance : 40 Minutes / 38 km (remember, pick up your rental car in Syracuse on the morning of day 6, before your drive to Noto! You’ll need it from here to Palermo, where you can drop it off on your way into the city and explore car-free from there). 

The Val di Noto is one of the crown jewels of southeastern Sicily, with the towns within the region being declared a UNESCO world heritage site in the early 2000s.

The city of Noto itself was completely destroyed during the 1693 earthquake, and was rebuilt in a completely different spot – you can actually still visit what’s left of the old town at Noto Antica , but we wouldn’t necessarily recommend it if you’re short on time. 

Noto is the epitome of Sicilian Baroque architecture, which makes sense when you realize that the architects in charge of rebuilding the city after the earthquake in the 17th and 18th Centuries essentially had a completely blank canvas to work with. 

We think there are three amazing things to see in the Val di Noto, and it’s well worth about 36 hours of your time (and certainly more, if you have it). They are: 

• A morning hike to the beaches in Riserva di Vendicari
• An afternoon in Marzamemi , a small fishing village on the coast
• An afternoon and evening in the city of Noto , which is known for its beautiful baroque architecture made of limestone, which lights up in the afternoon sun. 

What to Do in the Val di Noto

As you can see, there are two afternoon/evening activities there, which means you’ll need two nights in the Val di Noto.

Here’s how we would spend them. 

Exploring the Town of Noto

Spend your first afternoon and evening exploring the city of Noto, which is set on a hillside overlooking the valley to the south. Don’t miss: 

• Caffè Sicilia : This place is famous for their almond granita, and I wasn’t sure whether or not it would live up to the hype. Spoiler: it does. They have a version of it called a “cappuccino” where it’s a small scoop of coffee granita on top of a heap of almond granita. The almond granita is great, and their pastries look pretty incredible too.
• Putia del Coppo : A cone full of freshly caught fried fish. All gluten free! They go on holiday from… *checks notes*… October to April, so it’s really a summer thing. They also have a location in Modica. 
• Cattedrale di Noto : We’re not usually huge “go into all the churches” people, but this one is pretty cool. Inside, the stained glass windows underneath the dome caught our eye, as did the super realistic paintings depicting the passion of the Christ (aka the crucifixion), which I thought was an interesting take because you can really feel the suffering of Jesus through the art. Make sure your shoulders are covered and take off your hat as you enter. 
• Walk Something Like This Loop , which takes you up some stairs to some nice views. Obviously, you’re exploring, so feel free to wander a bit. 

Parking in Noto : We found plenty of free street parking in Noto near this gas station , which is a 10-15 minute walk up into the center of town. We had also scoped out this parking lot , which isn’t free, but is affordable and super close to the center.   

The Vendicari Reserve

The next morning, head out to the beaches in the Vendicari Reserve , which was highly recommended to us from the hosts at our little B&B in the countryside.

It’s a little more complicated than “head to the beach!” because there are multiple ways to get there, entrances, etc.

Basically, there are three main beaches in the reserve: Spiaggia di Vendicari, Spiaggia di Calamosche (the prettiest and busiest), and Spiaggia di Marianelli (the naked-est). 

So, after driving down a narrow dirt road and finding nobody there to take our money to park (it was the offseason, so I bet it’s different than the summer), we have a recommendation: head straight to the main entrance ( here – ignore the single bad review, at the time of writing, it’s 3 Euros to park for the day, which is reasonable for this area) and walk to the beaches from there. 

It’s a scenic walk along the coast, and it is well worth the effort to get there. It will save you the headache of trying to navigate the bad roads in a rental car, and the walk itself is gorgeous.

It costs 3.50 Euros per person to enter the reserve (plus the parking fee), and you’ll want to bring plenty of water because it is completely exposed and it can get very hot in the summer heat.

An Afternoon / Evening in Marzamemi 

After an afternoon of hiking and exploring the beauty of the rocky coastline, sandy beaches, and stunning crystal clear water of southern Sicily, head to the small town of Marzamemi for an evening of relaxation. Our host at our little farm stay recommended this, otherwise we probably never would have done it on our own. 

The town doesn’t really come alive until at least 7:00 pm, so it might be worth heading back and cleaning up a bit before returning. It’s a tiny town, so there’s not really that much to see, but we’d recommend finding a spot for aperitivo and dinner around Palazzo di Villadorata , which was the liveliest part of town when we were there. 

Parking in Marzamemi : We were there in the offseason and found plenty of street parking for free, but if you can’t find free parking, this lot is highly reviewed and is a couple of blocks away from the heart of the action. 

Where to Stay in the Val di Noto

We’re going to recommend that you actually stay outside of the city of Noto itself, because the Val di Noto is absolutely breathtaking, with tons of agriculture, wine production, and beautiful beaches awaiting you outside of the city limits. 

There are lots of agriturismos, where you can stay under the olive, pomegranate, and almond trees, slow down, and really appreciate the beauty and productivity of this part of southeast Sicily. 

We stayed at Fiori di Noto , a small, family-run agriturismo just outside of the city of Noto, and highly, highly recommend it. We spent half a day just lounging in the sun under the olive tree outside our bungalow in the company of the cutest bunch of kittens, and it could not have been more pleasant.

It’s also about 10 minutes from Noto, and under half an hour to Vendicari, so it’s not like you’re really trading off on the location. Plus, free parking!

Three other options (that look fantastic) just outside of Noto: 

• Baglio Genovesi
• IUTA Glamping & Farm
• Valle Degli Dei AgriResort

If you want to stay in Noto , stay at either the Ostello della Gioventù – Il Castello , a hostel with private rooms right in the heart of town that we walked by on our afternoon stroll, or B&B Novecento Siciliano , a charming bed and breakfast just off of Noto’s main drag. 

Day 8: Modica & Drive to Agrigento

Drive Time & Distance (Including Modica) : 3 hours / 186 km 

This day is the big driving day on this itinerary, and over the course of the day (and the next drive to Trapani) you’re going to pass through huge swaths of the island that are extremely picturesque, with vineyards and almond trees covering rolling hills as far as the eye can see.

However, there just isn’t enough time to stop and see everything, so we’ve chosen Modica as a perfect stop to break up the drive. We spent a lovely four hours in Modica, and there’s a nice city walk that we’d recommend (more info below) where you’ll get some pretty incredible views.

The views come with a price, though. And that price is a long, sometimes steep climb straight uphill. 

Like most cities in eastern Sicily, Modica was devastated by the 1693 earthquake (though less so than other cities like Noto), and was rebuilt in the Sicilian Baroque style you’re now probably intimately familiar with. 

Modica is really a combination of two cities – Modica Bassa (roughly, “lower Modica”) and Modica Alta (roughly “upper Modica”). Modica Alta is at the top of the hill, and the views from atop the crest of the hill are pretty great.

The only problem is that it’s a nightmare to drive up to them, and the best way to reach the top of the hill is actually to park at the bottom and walk. Which is exactly what we’d recommend doing. 

Below, you’ll find a city walk that mirrors what we did, including some of our favorite stops along the way. After you’re done in Modica – plan on anywhere between two and four hours, depending on how much walking you’re up for – head onwards to Agrigento for the night. 

Parking in Modica : There’s a small, free parking lot here that we parked at  – in high season, you’ll need to arrive EARLY (like, 8:30 am early) to have a chance at a spot. Otherwise, there’s lots of paid street parking near that parking lot at a relatively affordable rate. Pay at the machine and put the ticket on your windshield. 

What to Do in Modica: A Nice City Walk

First of all, here is a map of this city walk, including all the stops we’ve outlined below. You’re going to climb 166 meters over the course of the walk, mostly along narrow alleys and steps. Take your time, and make sure you have plenty of water. 

Here are the stops, in order. You’ll start from the parking lot we mentioned above (or wherever you found parking nearby), and make your way up the hill to Pizzo Belvedere before heading back down and enjoying some cheese, gelato, and chocolate that will have been well-earned. 

• Duomo di San Giorgio : This church – designed in the Baroque style, of course – was restored in the 18th Century after a series of earthquakes, and is now the main church in Modica, with its distinctive dome visible from all over the city. Similar to Noto, I enjoyed the paintings depicting the crucifixion of Christ, which are surprisingly realistic (apparently that was a characteristic of the times). 
• Cioccolato di Modica Sabadì : Chocolate made in the traditional Modica way: cooked at a low heat so the sugar doesn’t dissolve, which gives it a slightly gritty texture. This shop has a table with a bunch of different chocolates on it – some flavored, some just chocolate, some with flavor combinations inspired by different cities in Sicily. We really enjoyed learning about the process of making the chocolate, and about the different product lines they have. Plus, free samples!
• Pizzo Belvedere : You made it! This is the top of the hill. Admire the views over Modica Bassa from here, and the huge bridge in the distance. We think the view from here is well worth the effort it takes to get there. 
• Church of Saint John Evangelist : We stumbled upon this gem on our way down the hill. It’s beautiful, and marks the highest point in Modica Alta (so, technically, we lied when we said you were at the top before – forgive us). Inside, it’s not the most ornate, but we like the view from down the steps in front of the church. At the bottom of the steps, there was a small group of old men having coffee and chatting, gesticulating in a way that only Italians do, as they discussed either football or politics – hard to tell which. Getting together there was clearly a routine, which I admire. 
• Castello dei Conti : Not the greatest castle in the world, but we enjoyed walking out to the point where there’s a clock tower that you can hear ticking (loudly). Views from Pizzo Belvedere are better. 
• Bar del Duomo : In an alley right under the Duomo di San Giorgio, this is a lovely place to stop and have an espresso, granita, or pastry before you continue on down the hill. 
• Antica Dolceria Bonajuto : Said to be the oldest chocolate shop in the city, this will be a fun stop if you, like us, have a love affair with chocolate. They also have tours, though you’ll need to book in advance and they cancel it if they don’t have at least six participants. The friendly woman behind the counter spoke great English too, which was helpful as we tried to figure out what the things in the display case were. 
• Caffè Adamo : Famous for their gelato, Alysha knew she had to try this place as soon as she discovered it. She is, after all, a gelato fiend. I passed because I wasn’t sure how “gluten free” their gelato was. She tried a ricotta + marjoram gelato, which was super creamy and some of the best she’s had in Sicily (though, we’ve been far more focused on granita while we’ve been here).
• Casa del Formaggio Modica : Is the man behind the counter the nicest cheesemonger in the world? We think so. We walked by and decided to stop in, and walked out with two cheeses and a bottle of local wine. The man behind the counter gave us recommendations for a hard and stinkier (the technical term, of course) cheese, and helped us choose a bottle of wine. He made sure we tried the cheeses before we bought them so we were sure we’d like them, and they were fantastic. 

Day 9: Agrigento & Valle dei Templi

You’ll have arrived in Agrigento the previous afternoon after a morning in Modica, and we’d recommend spending your first evening in the center of Agrigento, which comes alive when the sun sets. 

We grabbed a drink at Caffè San Pietro right in the heart of Agrigento, and it was a lovely place to people watch with spritzes in hand, and a generous bounty of aperitivo snacks. There are plenty of places to choose from for dinner in the area, though we heard really good things about Enoteca ‘Nzolia .

Then, the next day, the main event: visiting the Valley of the Temples (more details on that in a second). 

Where to Stay in Agrigento

This is another place where we’d actually recommend staying on the outskirts of town, where you’ll find some very nice B&Bs with lush gardens and spectacular views. 

We stayed at Villa La Lumia B&B , which is just outside of town, about a 20 minute walk into the center, and we LOVED it. The hosts were so friendly, their dog Argo is absolutely adorable (we almost stole him, shhhh don’t tell anyone), and the breakfast on the terrace with temple views is quite the way to start your day.

It’s a lovely place to hang out, and we can’t recommend it enough. They have hotel-style rooms, and apartments that have a kitchen. Free parking, too. 

Other good options just outside of town are Villa Lekythos or South Valley Guesthouse .

If you want to stay in the center of Agrigento, stay at either B&B Triskéles , which looks fantastic, or at Le Terrazze di Pirandello , a good budget option with room options that have a shared bathroom for a bit cheaper. 

Visiting the Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples)

Over the course of the next 36 hours or so, you’re going to see three examples of ruins of ancient temples and cities built around them. This one, which is about a 20 minute walk outside of Agrigento, was hands down our favorite, and maybe even our favorite thing we did in Sicily. 

We were standing at the entrance to the Temple of Zeus reading the informative signage (in English!), which outlined for us where the walls of the temple would have stood.

Both of us turned to each other and audibly said “whoa” because that temple must have been absolutely MASSIVE.

Of course, you’ll have to use your imagination a bit to picture it, but the scale and grandeur of some of the structures in this area is pretty mind boggling. 

How to Get There

The archaeological area spans a pretty big distance, and there’s an entrance on either end of the park with plenty of parking (though you’ll have to pay for it). If you’ve got a car, you can drive to the Valley of the Temples, and you’ll have to pay for parking. 

However, this means that you’re going to have to walk through the valley once to see it all, then back through it again to return to your car. We recommend either walking , which takes about 30 minutes in either direction, or taking the bus , which leaves from here . 

That way, you can make a big loop without having to retrace your steps. There are two routes you need to make this loop. You take the 2 bus to get to the eastern entrance, then pick up the 1 bus from the western entrance to get back to Agrigento – buy tickets on the bus. 

More information on their website in the “visit” section here .

Ticket Costs

A standard ticket costs 12 Euros per person. A combo ticket with the Kolymbethra Garden, a former lake turned lush valley filled with citrus trees, costs 17 Euros (the garden closes earlier than the Valley of the Temples, so you’ll want to do it first). 

A combo ticket with the nearby Archaeology Museum costs 15.50 Euros (you can visit them over the course of three days, one admission to each). 

More information here .

When to Visit

We have a strong opinion on this one, and it’s shared by the host at our B&B that we stayed at in Agrigento (which we highly recommend – it’s Villa La Lumia B&B ). 

You should go in the late afternoon, about an hour and a half before sunset, when the light of the setting sun lights up the temples in a deep golden glow. 

Plus, the park is open past sundown, and if you’re willing to wait a bit, you can have a completely different experience with the temples in the dark, when they’re lit up with fancy uplighting. 

If your itinerary makes it so that you can’t swing an afternoon/evening visit, it’s still worth doing at other times of day, but it’s that much more spectacular as the sun is setting over the sea beyond the temples. 

Day 10: Selinunte, Segesta, and Drive to Castellammare del Golfo

Drive Time & Distance : 2 hours 40 minutes / 180 km 

This is another day with a long drive, but we’ve got a couple of nice stops along the way to break it up. Eventually, you’ll arrive in Castellammare del Golfo, a charming little seaside town that is a great home base for exploring one of the best nature reserves on the island. 

Like we mentioned before, there are a bunch of really fascinating historical sites in this part of Sicily. You’ll see two of them today (combined with the Valley of the Temples last night, this is quite the 24 hours of history). 

One of them – Selinunte – is about the historical context and using your imagination to envision what life in Sicily was like in the Greek and Roman times. The other – Segesta – is about the sheer beauty (there’s not a whole lot of historical context given). 

The order goes: Selinunte, Segesta, then driving to Castellammare del Golfo. 

Let me tell you, after you’ve seen all three of these archaeological sites, you’re going to walk away with a new appreciation for the ancient people’s ability to choose a site for their cities and temple complexes.

Selinunte sits on a bluff overlooking the sea, and the views are pretty fantastic, particularly from the portion of the park where you’ll find the acropolis. 

We had heard of both the Valley of the Temples and Segesta before arriving in Sicily, but this one was something we discovered along the way, and decided to make a very slight detour to include it on our route. 

Selinunte is a pretty big archaeological park set on the site of a Greek city dating back to the 600s BCE. It was one of the most important pieces of land for the Greeks in Sicily at that time, and they butted heads with both the Carthaginians and the Elymians, who came from the Segesta to the north and are one of three native peoples of Sicily. 

It was a thriving city in what we now know as southwestern Sicily, that is until Carthage sacked it, razed it, executed many of its inhabitants, and then re-occupied it in 409 BCE. It was then taken by the Romans in the Punic wars, but by then it was largely uninhabited. 

Today, the collection of ancient houses around the acropolis and the two temple complexes were among the most interesting history lessons we got during our time in Sicily.

It’s a good reminder that this part of the world has a variety of influences, and has been occupied by several different groups of people throughout its history, all of whom have left their stamp on it in one way or another (though, it should be noted that some of those stamps – particularly the architecture kind – were wiped from the face of the earth with the earthquake in 1693). 

There are two parts of the park, and you can either walk between them (think 15-20 minutes, there and back) or pay a small fee to ride the golf cart between them.

The first, right near the entrance, is a series of temples (though, unlike the Valley of the Temples, historians and archaeologists aren’t quite sure who the temples are dedicated to). 

The second part of the park is over on a little bluff, and is where you’ll find the acropolis, more temples, and the remains of houses from thousands of years ago, which is kind of cool and helps you visualize what life might have been like at that time. 

How to Get There : Drive – it’s about a 15 minute detour off the route you’d be taking anyway. Park for free in the big lot outside the entrance. 

Ticket Costs : 6 Euros per person. 

More information here . 

To be honest, this was our least favorite of the three temple complexes in the past day or so of this itinerary. It’s beautiful, yes, but the signage leaves a bit to be desired. Mostly because the answers to questions like “who built this?” and “why does this temple exist?” are basically the shrug emoji. 

There’s a lot of hypotheses, but we don’t really know the details, because we only have primary sources from other people’s points of view – namely Greeks – and other than that… *shrugs*.

The two main highlights here are the Theater, high up on the hillside, and the unfinished Doric Temple, which is an easy 250 meter walk from the entrance. 

It’s worth noting that the theater is quite a ways up on the hilltop, which means amazing views, yes, but it also means a climb to get there.

We’d recommend paying the extra few Euros to take the bus up , because the climb is brutal, especially in the hot summer sun. We walked, and we’re generally into hiking, but at the top we decided it wasn’t really worth it. 

There are some nice views of the Doric Temple from the climb up, which is why we’d also recommend that you walk back down rather than taking the shuttle . 

There really isn’t a whole lot to see here, so it should only take you 30-60 minutes or so. 

Where to Stay in Castellammare del Golfo

Unlike some of the other places on this itinerary, you definitely want to stay in the center of Castellammare del Golfo, rather than outside of town. The narrow streets near the port and along the water are very charming, and the areas further inland aren’t. 

We stayed at Veranda sul Porticciolo , a small apartment complex run by friendly Guiliano, who showed us our room and gave us some tips about visiting the Zingaro Reserve, along with where to eat in town. We stayed in a studio, which was compact, but had a full kitchen, access to a washing machine, and a comfortable bed.

The best part was morning coffee and afternoon glasses of wine out on the deck, which has views of the port. Parking would be a bit of a hassle in the summer, when the area is a ZTL and you can’t park here, but that’s true of basically any place to stay in the center of town. 

Other options nearby would be Hotel Punta Nord Est (for hotel-style rooms with nice sea views), Blue Suite (for spacious apartments with full kitchens and nice views), or B&B Da Peppa (a charming B&B with a rooftop terrace where you can enjoy your breakfast in the morning). 

Day 11: Day Trip to Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro

Drive Time & Distance : 20 Minutes / 12 km (one way) 

On this day, we’d highly, highly recommend taking a day trip to the Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro , which was a highlight on our Sicily trip. You’ll do the reserve – ideally in the early morning to avoid the blistering summer heat – and then spend the rest of the afternoon and evening in Castellammare del Golfo, which was our favorite town in this part of Sicily. 

The pristine coastal reserve was established in the 1980’s after it had originally been slated for development – you walk through the tunnel where the road was supposed to go as you enter the reserve from the southern entrance.

But numerous environmental organizations stepped in to prevent the construction of the road and keep this part of Sicily’s gorgeous coastline wild. 

Spoiler alert: they succeeded, and Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro became Sicily’s first nature reserve, protecting 4,000 acres of natural beauty on the northern coast. 

Getting to the Park

Drive. There’s no other way to do it (that we could find, anyway – let us know if you find a bus with a reliable schedule!) which means if you don’t have a car, you’ll have to skip it. There are two entrances – one near Scopello on the south end, and one near San Vito Lo Capo on the north end. 

The southern entrance is about 20-25 minutes away from Castellammare del Golfo, and is the one you should shoot for. Here it is on Google Maps. 

The road to get there, uh, isn’t great. But it’s doable, even in a rental car. There’s a medium sized parking area that we imagined becomes a zoo in high season. 

Costs and Hours

Entry to the park is 5 Euros per person, and they take both cash and credit card. In the summertime, the park is open from 7:30 am to 7:00 pm. In October, when we were there (and through the rest of the offseason until April), the park is only open from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm. 

What to Do in Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro

Now, our experience in the park is likely a bit different than yours is going to be, at least if you’re coming during the warm summer months. 

We were there in mid-October, and ended up out on the coast in the middle of a thunderstorm, with raindrops that felt like they were the size of my head. Not ideal, but still gorgeous in less of a “crystal clear turquoise water” kind of way, and more of a “those waves crashing on the cliff are a little scary” kind of way.

Start from the southern entrance and head north into the reserve. There are multiple trails to follow, but if you’re looking for those stunning coastal views and beaches, you want the coastal route, which is also the easiest. You’ll receive a map as you enter, which has all the “calas” you’ll find along the trail. 

If you’re expecting wide sandy beaches where you can lay out in the sun, think again. It’s more rocky and wild than we were expecting, though that has never stopped Italians from getting their sunbathing in as far as we’ve ever seen. 

If you’ve ever been to the west coast of the United States, which is where we’re from, the beaches here are more similar to the ones in Washington State – wild and rocky – than Southern California – developed and sandy. 

The hike from the southern entrance through to the northern entrance is roughly 7km, so a 14km hike round trip. It should take you between four and six hours, depending on how many stops you make along the way. Here is a map of the reserve . 

If you’re like most people, you’re probably visiting between June and September, when the weather will be significantly different. One thing we noticed on this route – mostly because we got soaked – is that there’s very little cover from the sun (or rain in our case).

Things to Know Before You Go

Here are a few things to know before you go to help you prepare for your trip. 

• You need to bring plenty of water (at least one liter per person, if not more), sunscreen, and a hat. It’s going to be hot, and there’s not a whole lot of shade. 
• There is no drinking water inside the park , and the only place to buy food or water is the little snack shack in the parking lot. Make sure you have enough snacks and water before setting out on the hike. 
• Start early . Both because the parking lot is small, and to avoid hiking during the heat of the day.
• Wear closed toed shoes ! The hike isn’t necessarily hard, though there is a little up and down as you make your way along the coast, but there are parts that are rocky. Leave the sandals at home. They will check whether you’re wearing proper footwear at the entrance, though it’s unclear whether they’d actually turn you away, or just laugh at you. 
• The closer you go to the middle of the reserve, the fewer people you’ll find . Solely because it’s a longer walk from either entrance, and, well, people don’t like walking that much. 

Days 12 – 14: Exploring Palermo

Let me give you a little BTS (behind the scenes) look at how we operate when we’re on the road. Generally, things are most fresh in the few days after we do something, so we do our best to actually write these guides in that timeframe (or, at the very least, take some detailed notes). 

We are writing this guide as we make our way through Sicily, which means things change as we discover new places and gain a new point of view on certain things.

Originally, we had planned this itinerary out to include less time in Palermo, and more time on the coast in Western Sicily – specifically Trapani. Then we spent time in Palermo, and decided “you know what? More time in Palermo is always a good thing!”

That’s how we landed at having two to three days in Palermo, which is barely enough time to see everything there is to see, eat everything there is to eat, and do everything there is to do. 

What to Do in Palermo

With a couple of days in Palermo, we’d strongly recommend prioritizing activities inside the city limits, rather than venturing outside the city to visit places like Monreale or Cefalu. 

Here are our favorite things to do (and eat) in Palermo. 

• Explore Palermo’s Famous Open Air Markets : There are three main markets in Palermo, and all three are worth a visit for different reasons. Go in the morning, which is when they are most lively (with the notable exception of Mercato Vucciria, which is decidedly a nighttime endeavor). Capo is a sensory overload, with vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood, ready-to-eat fried delicacies, and plenty more. Mercato Ballaró, south of the historic center, feels REAL, with a touch of grittiness that tells me that real people shop there for their daily needs. Mercato Vucciria is a collection of narrow streets that we stumbled upon after dark (mostly by accident), when the area transforms into a collection of small food stalls and cozy bars with plenty of open air seating. 
• Eat Street Food in Palermo : Palermo is world-renowned for its amazing street food. You can pretty easily eat a hearty, authentic meal for about five Euros. Some of our favorite Palermitan street foods were Crocchè, which are herbaceous deep fried mashed potatoes, and arancine (interestingly, the singular in Palermo is “arancina”, versus “arancino” over in Catania), which are basically fried rice balls stuffed with all sorts of fillings, from veggies to meats and cheeses. Or sfincione. Or panelle. The list goes on and on. The point is, Palermo has amazing street food. The best way to experience it, we think, is with a local guide. This is the tour we had planned to book – despite the fact that I have Celiac Disease and couldn’t eat a single thing, I was excited to learn all about Palermitan culture – but the timing ended up not working out and we didn’t get a chance to do it. Book the morning tour, and show up hungry!
• Learn About Palermo’s History with the Mafia : Having never seen the Godfather or the Sopranos, two of pop culture’s most famous depictions of the mafia, I actually wasn’t really that familiar with the Sicilian stereotypes around the mafia. But, as Alysha, whose grandfather was born in a small town called Melilli in southeast Sicily, informed me, people’s first thought when you say “Sicily” is generally “mafia.” Like Pablo Escobar in Medellin, Colombia, there is a lot of interest in learning about the mafia, which has created a mini boom in tours focusing on sights and famous places associated with them. It’s important to remember that there is a real trail of blood behind the mafia in Sicily. Real people died and suffered as a direct result of the mafia’s actions. Which is why, if you’re interested in learning about the mafia, you should do it responsibly through tours with Addiopizzo , which is an organization that set out to rid Sicily of the “pizzo”, or the protection money that businesses paid to the mafia for decades. This is the tour we did, and it was great – we highly recommend it. 
• Drink Sicilian Wine : It felt like everywhere we drove in Sicily, we saw vineyards. Which can only mean one thing. Affordable, delicious wine! Our two favorite discoveries in terms of Palermo’s wine scene were CiCala , which is the place to go for natural wines from Sicily, and Bottega Monteleone , a great place for a wine-focused aperitivo (Alysha really enjoyed the crostini with a paste made from sardines and herbs). 

Where to Stay in Palermo

We went back and forth a few times when deciding where to stay in Palermo, which means we have three recommendations for you that we had booked at one point or another. 

In general, we’d recommend staying either in the area between Teatro Massimo and the Palermo Cathedral , or in Politeama – Libertà , which is a little more upscale and polished. 

We stayed at Le Casette di Marcì , a set of serviced apartments roughly equidistant between all three (and close to the Mercato Capo), and it was nothing short of fantastic.

The apartments are huge, they have full kitchens including ovens and washing machines, and they are in a great location. Perfect if you want a little more space to spread out. 

Before booking that apartment, we had a couple of nights booked at two separate B&Bs. 

First was La Terrazza Sul Centro , which is in a great location just a few blocks off of Via Vittorio Emanuele. The rooftop terrace has amazing views of Palermo, and the rooms are compact but plenty comfortable for a few nights. 

The other place we had booked was Family Affair B&B Palermo , which is right in the heart of Politeama – Libertà. Rooms are stylish, comfortable, and surprisingly affordable, and the place gets staggeringly good reviews.

What to Do with More Time in Sicily

Have more time or are looking for alternate ideas? Here are some things we wanted to do, but decided we didn’t have enough time to fit into our three weeks on the island.

Obviously, it goes without saying that this is absolutely not an exhaustive list of everything to do on the island (that isn’t in the itinerary above), but it is our wishlist for our next trip to Sicily. 

Add a Night in Trapani to Visit Erice & San Vito Lo Capo : We’ll be honest, we weren’t blown away by Trapani or Erice, which is why you won’t find it in the main itinerary above. Erice is beautiful, sure, with its hilltop town looking down over Trapani to the west and Castellammare del Golfo to the east. But it’s pretty touristy, and only worth a few hours of your time. We skipped San Vito Lo Capo, a beautiful beach town at the northwestern tip of Sicily, because the weather was terrible, and it didn’t seem like we’d be getting the best of the town in mid-October. A night in Trapani should give you enough time to do a day trip to Erice in the morning, and then spend the afternoon out in San Vito Lo Capo.  

Day Trip to Cefalu from Palermo : Cefalu is an easy day trip from Palermo, but given 14 days, we’d opt to spend the two and a half days you have near Palermo in the city itself. With an extra day, take the train out to the beach, hike up to La Rocca for exquisite views, and get a spritz and aperitivo overlooking the beach. 

Explore the Islands Off of Trapani : Spend a couple of days on Favignana, or one of the other islands in the Egadi chain just off the coast near Trapani. You can do it as a day trip, but it’s better as an overnight. Here’s a guide to Favignana that we enjoyed. 

…Or the Aeolian Islands and Stromboli : At the top of our list for a return trip to Sicily? The Aeolian Islands and Stromboli off of the northeastern coast of the island. Stromboli, like Mount Etna, is an active volcano. Except instead of being on the island of Sicily, it’s in the middle of the ocean. The surrounding chain of islands are full of beautiful sandy beaches, and more solitude than you’ll find just about anywhere else in Italy. Here’s a travel guide to peruse for inspiration, if you go this route. 

When to Visit Sicily

We have an interesting point-of-view on this, since we were in Sicily for three weeks starting at the beginning of October. 

Every single travel guide, blog, and post we’ve read about Sicily says something along the lines of “summer is great but it’s too hot and too crowded, so come in shoulder season like September or October instead!” Which is true. Kind of. But that description is missing an important piece of information that we think you should know before deciding when to visit Sicily. 

In October , something happens that is almost certainly going to have an impact on your trip. Small business owners go on vacation. Sometimes it’s for a week, sometimes two, sometimes a whole month. About 30-40 percent of places we tried to go – bars and restaurants, mostly – were on holiday during the first two weeks of October. Some close completely until the following spring! 

Locals we met along the way warned us about this phenomenon, and there were several times during our visit that someone said “we love X restaurant, but it’s closed right now.”

It is worth noting that this phenomenon largely affected the smaller towns in Sicily, rather than cities like Catania and Palermo. 

All the main sights are going to be open (in our experience, anyway), but if you have specific places to eat and drink picked out, there’s a chance they’ll be closed if you come in October. Not necessarily something to stop you from visiting in October, but something to keep in mind as you decide. 

In fact, we’d recommend October, which is when we were in Sicily . Sure, the weather includes a little more rain and thunderstorms (not as many as your weather app will make you think, however, don’t trust any weather app – I’m convinced they’re all out to set expectations low so that you’re stoked when it’s 75 and sunny out), but it’s also relatively quiet and calm, and we basically had most of the places we went to ourselves, or shared them with a small group. Plus, parking was a breeze everywhere we went – we only paid for parking in a city ONCE. 

September is better if you want to eat out, experience the nightlife, and things like that. It’s a nice blend between the weather in summer (but slightly more bearable), and the lighter crowds. 

Summer – June through August – is blazing hot, which makes it far less pleasant to be trekking around the Valley of the Temples, or hiking in the Zingaro Nature Preserve. Crowds are higher too, which means a corresponding increase in prices. 

Still, there’s a reason Sicily in the summer is so popular – it’s beautiful, the weather is perfect (okay, it’s a little hot), and there’s a palpable energy that comes with thousands of people descending on the island. It does mean that you’ll be waiting in more lines, circling for parking spaces more often, and paying more for your accommodations and rental car. 

Late fall, winter, and early spring are going to be very, very quiet. Things are closed, the weather isn’t great (though still better than northern Italy, for sure), and it’s generally not the best time to visit if you want to have a Sicily experience full of sunshine, amazing views, and stunning sandy beaches. 

Matt is the founder and main writer behind Wheatless Wanderlust, which he started back in 2018 as a way to share his gluten free travel guides with his fellow Celiac travelers.

Since then, Matt and his wife Alysha have visited 18 national parks, spent three months in Europe and six weeks in Colombia, and have explored every corner of the Pacific Northwest, which is where Matt grew up.

He writes super detailed guides to the places they visit, bringing together personal experience and historical context to help YOU plan an amazing trip.

AMAZING ARTICLE!

Thanks a lot for making such a detailed trip for us. Im going there in a Month, following many of these tips you gave.

Thanks !! 🙂

No problem, Bastian! Hope you had an amazing trip. We LOVED Sicily!

Great post, thank you! We are also going in October, but sadly only have 8 days/nights. We were planning on flying into Catania and out of Palermo but instead will follow your advice and stick to just one side. At that time, 3rd week in October, would you recommend the South/East around Catania or the North/West around Palermo? We were most looking forward to Taormina and hiking the Zigaro reserve, so will have to decide between the 2. Knowing the weather will likely not be ideal and we wont be swimming, and perhaps spending more time away from the coast, I wonder if one of the cities is “better” than the other? Did you prefer one city over the other? Thanks!

Hey Lauren! Sadly, I think your trip might have already happened, but I’m going to answer this anyway in case others have the same question.

With limited time, we’d opt for the southeast corner of the island, where you have Catania, Etna, Taormina, and Siracusa all within a relatively short distance. Plus, they’re all connected by a regional train line, so you don’t necessarily need a car.

That being said, we also really like Palermo, so if you’ve only got 3-5 days, you could make a strong case to spend it all on Palermo with a day trip to Cefalù (or something else nearby).

Many thanks, Matt! Your ‘Perfect Sicily Road Trip’ article is most informative. We are retired and planning an eight-week trip to Italy next October – November, with one month in Sicily. Although you identify shortcomings for late fall in Sicily, the trade off may be less tourists. Thank you for sharing your experiences and your recommendations.

Definitely, it’s all about tradeoffs! There will definitely be things closed, but there will be far less people. We were there in October and, while it wasn’t beach weather, it was amazing.

Hi there! I’m planning my honeymoon for ~12 days in Sicily in July. We want our trip to be romantic and less fast-paced than a typical sight-seeing vacation – we don’t want to have too many travel days moving locations! Do you have a recommendation of which side of Sicily or which towns we should prioritize for a romantic low-stress honeymoon? Thank you!

We’d definitely do the southeastern corner of Sicily in that case! There’s a TON to do and see within a few hours in a car/on a train, so you can get a nice balance of relaxing and exploring. With a slower pace, you could do something like Catania, Taormina, and Siracusa over those 12 days, with day trips to Etna and Noto. Sounds like an amazing honeymoon!

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Sicily Road Trip: Ultimate 2-Week Itinerary

Delicious Sicily: a fascinating island off the mainland of Italy with stunning architecture, rich culture, and staggeringly beautiful landscapes. Speed along the stunning coastline, sunbathe in tiny coves with clear turquoise water, explore ancient towns with steep streets, and feast on fresh seafood and crispy cannoli. The relaxed Dolce Vita lifestyle is in full swing here, so take your time to enjoy life’s small pleasures. Let your Sicily road trip begin!

Sicily Road Trip

Located in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily differs from the rest of Italy with its unique history, culture, and language. A Sicily road trip is the best way to see the island and immerse yourself in its culture, giving you the ultimate freedom to pick and choose what to see.

Here are all your hotel options in Sicily.

Tip: Everything moves at a slower pace, so be prepared for unusual opening times, with many shops and attractions closing between 1-4 PM so families can enjoy a long lunch. Embrace the relaxed way of life with our 14-day Sicily itinerary.

Day 1: Catania

It’s the first day of your Sicily road trip! With a beautiful backdrop of Mount Etna and a lively local atmosphere, the port city of Catania is a great place to kick off your Sicilian adventure. Half a day is enough to explore the center and see the city’s top sights, so don’t worry if you arrive after midday. 

Here are all your hotel options in Catania.

Explore the city streets, admire its stunning palazzos and piazzas, and dive into a wine bar or two! To see the city from a different perspective, head to the peaceful Villa Bellini Gardens or climb to the top of Chiesa della Badia di Sant’Agata church for an eagle-eye view of Catania and the volcano. 

Tip: If you are here early in the morning, don’t miss a visit to the historic La Pescheria, one of the biggest fish markets in Sicily. It’s the perfect place to experience vibrant local life as you watch people negotiate for their favorites!

From the Airport

Catania is a great place to start your Sicily Itinerary (14 days), as you can take a short 10-minute train from the international airport to the center of town (1.90 EUR / 2.09 USD).

Alternatively, rent a car from here, although please note that finding parking in the city can be difficult.

We recommend to rent a car in Sicily through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here .

Where to Stay in Catania

As you are only here for one night of your Siciliy road trip, it’s best to stay in the historic center. The best spot is close to the Cathedral or Via Etnea, where most of the main attractions are. Even though it’s very central, there are plenty of accommodation options for every budget.

Hotels in Catania 😴

Day 2-3: Taormina

Time to hit the road! An hour’s drive north from Catania is the stunningly picturesque clifftop town of Taormina – the next stop of your 14-day Sicily itinerary. Spend a few days exploring this idyllic town, home to atmospheric streets, gelaterias, ceramic shops, and island beaches with crystal clear water.

Read: Best things to do in Taormina, Sicily

Tip: One of our favorite things to do in Taormina was to take in the panoramic views at sunset from Piazza IX Aprile. Make sure to have a cold aperitivo in hand (an integral part of Sicilian culture!).

Here are all your hotel options in Taormina.

Visiting Mount Etna on your Sicily Road Trip

Taormina is also very close to the majestic Mount Etna, and you can do a half-day tour of the volcano from here. Many tours also include local food and wine tastings, as the volcanic earth makes it the perfect place to grow grapes.

How to get from Catania to Taormina

It is an hour’s drive from Catania to Taormina. However, please note that parking in the town is almost impossible. The best option is to park in the Lumbi parking garage just outside. The price is 5 USD for two days, including a free shuttle bus to the center.

Alternatively, if you don’t have a car, you can travel by train on your Sicily itinerary (14 days). There are frequent trains from Catania along the coast, which cost less than 10 USD and take approximately two hours.

Where to Stay in Taormina

Taormina has two main areas: the historic center on the clifftop and the beach. Choose your accommodation depending on where you want to spend most of your time. However, both are good options as a cable car connects the two.

Hotels in Taormina 😴

Day 4-5: Cefalù

Located on the island’s north coast is the beautiful old fishing town of Cefalù – one of the most picturesque destinations on your Sicily road trip! Summer is neverending in this ancient romantic town, home to sun-drenched squares, fantastic restaurants, and traditional ceramic shops. Cefalù is a place to relax and unwind, have late nights and lazy mornings, and enjoy the authentic ‘Dolce Vita’ lifestyle.

Here are all your hotel options in Cefalù.

Make sure to visit the beautiful pier, Molo di Cefalù’, where you can admire a rustic view of the beach backed by typical Sicilian houses. In summer, this is also the best place for sunbathing and diving into the harbor to cool off!

Also read: What to do in Sicily, Italy .

How to get from Taormina to Cefalù

It is a 2.5-hour drive along the stunning coastline to reach Cefalù, which lies right in the middle of the north coast of Sicily. Parking can be an issue here, but you can park for free in Porto Presidiana. From here, a shuttle bus takes you into town for 5 EUR.

Where to Stay in Cefalù

If you don’t feel like walking far, choose accommodation in the old town. However, please note that the new town (although not as pretty) is cheaper.

Hotels in Cefalù 😴

Cefalu, in general, is a touristy location (especially in the summer), so there are plenty of B&Bs and hotels to choose from.

Day 6-7 of your Sicily Road Trip: Palermo

No Sicily road trip would be complete without a visit to Palermo, the island’s capital. The city is full of energy, character, and contrasts, with an eclectic mix of Greek , North African , and Middle Eastern influences that can be seen in its people, culture, and food.  The Mafia has also left its mark, and although it is still a very real presence in the background of Sicilian life, there is now a strong anti-Mafia movement working hard to rebel against it.

Learn more about the anti-mafia movement on this popular walking tour

Palermo is also famous for its incredible street food and fantastic open-air markets. You’ll find many of the stalls selling traditional Sicilian delicacies, like hot chickpea fritters, crispy cannoli, and spleen sandwiches! Make sure to factor in time on your 14-day Sicily itinerary to also explore the charismatic neighborhoods with their tiny winding alleyways and the incredible architecture of the Norman Palace (one of the oldest royal residences in Europe). 

Here are all your hotel options in Palermo.

Tip: Don’t miss the spectacular view from the top of the Palermo Cathedral at sunset. From here, you can see the whole city with a backdrop of mountains behind it.

How to get from Cefalù to Palermo

It is a one-hour drive from Cefalù to Palermo. On the way, stop at Punta Sant’Elia, a stunningly scenic spot on the coast with a tiny cove great for swimming. This is a must-do on your Sicily road trip! 

You can also take a direct train to Palermo, which takes around an hour.

Where to Stay in Palermo

The historic center is the best place to base yourself, as you are within walking distance of the main sights and attractions. La Kalsa neighborhood is a good option for those on a budget.

Hotels in Palermo 😴

Day 8-10: Trapani

Next on your Sicily road trip is the beautiful port city of Trapani on the west coast. The town itself is home to charming streets, stunning stretches of golden sand, and tiny coves perfect for swimming. This is where your car comes in handy, as there are lots of beautiful places to discover in the surrounding area. 

Here are all your hotel options in Trapani.

Once you’ve explored the old town, head out to the Scopello area for a walk in the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro. This natural haven has an incredible view over the spectacular Tonnara di Scopello, which is one of the most beautiful coves on the island. Popular with locals, it’s an amazing place to spend a sunny afternoon swimming and sunbathing and a memorable destination on your 14-day Sicily itinerary.

Other nearby spots worth visiting are the medieval hilltop town of Erice or Favignana Island, which can be explored by bicycle. Alternatively, relax at the breathtaking beach at San Vito Lo Capo.

Tip: If you have enough time, make a quick trip to the fascinating ruins of the Temple of Segesta.

How to get from Palermo to Trapani

It is a 1.5-hour drive from Palermo to Trapani . On the way, stop at Baia di San Cataldo, an old bunker built on a clifftop with gorgeous coastal views.

Alternatively, there is a direct train from Palermo, which takes approximately 2 hours.

Book your train tickets in advance of your trip

Where to Stay in Trapani

Stay in the historic center of Trapani , or go for more rural accommodation in the countryside or by the sea.

Hotels in Trapani 😴

If you’re looking for something unique on your Sicily itinerary (14 days), this converted watchtower near Scopello is very special.

Day 11: Agrigento

Next on your Sicily road trip is the ancient town of Agrigento! This beautiful town is one of the oldest in Sicily, with stunning examples of Arabic architecture, beautiful churches, and palazzos.

We’ve added it as a stop on this 14-day Sicily itinerary because of its proximity to the extraordinary Valley of the Temples, an impressive collection of ancient Greek structures built on the hillside over 2000 years ago. 

Spend the late afternoon exploring the UNESCO World Heritage Site , with ancient ruins scattered among a grove of lemon and olive trees. If you can, stay to watch the sun go down over the valley, which illuminates the temples before they are lit up as night falls.

See tickets and availability for a tour of the Valley of the Temples

Afterward, return to town for a relaxed Sicilian dinner, finished with the locally renowned pecorino gelato at Le Cuspidi !

How to Visit Valley of the Temples

The Valley of the Temples is open 8:30 AM – 7 PM. During the high season (July-September), it stays open until 11 PM weekly and midnight at the weekend. It costs 10 EUR to enter.

If you don’t want to drive to the Valley of the Temples, you can take the bus from Agrigento for 1.50 EUR.

How to get from Trapani to Agrigento on your Sicily road trip

It is just over 2 hours to drive from Trapani to Agrigento. On the way, stop at the Turkish Steps (Scala dei Turchi), a set of white limestone cliffs formed into natural steps that lead down to the sea. This is the exact location .

Where to Stay in Agrigento

There are many hotels and B&Bs in town. Alternatively, spend the night in an agriturismo to wake up to lovely views of the Sicilian countryside.

Hotels in Agrigento 😴

Day 12: Ragusa

The hilltop town of Ragusa, located in the beautiful Val di Noto area, is known as the birthplace of Sicilian Baroque architecture. The town is split into two parts, separated by a deep ravine. Because of this, we recommend starting from the upper town, where you can see incredible views, before walking down the steep stone steps to the historic center. 

Here are all your hotel options in Ragusa.

You can spend hours wandering around the small streets of the old city, admiring incredible buildings like the stunning Baroque Cathedral. Take plenty of breaks for plates of stuffed flatbreads, Ragusano cheese, and fresh seafood throughout the day.

In the evening, walk it all off with a traditional passeggiata (evening stroll) through the town. This Italian custom is best at the weekend when couples, families, and friends come onto the streets to socialize and flirt; it’s the best time for people-watching! 

How to get from Agrigento to Ragusa

This stretch of the Sicily road trip from Agrigento to Ragusa along the south coast takes just under two and a half hours. Unfortunately, the public transport options are more limited in this area. However, there are buses available. 

Where to Stay in Ragusa

Stay in the Ragusa Superiore, the newer area with fantastic views over the old city. Alternatively, choose the Ragusa Ibla, where you are surrounded by stunning architecture and the charming atmosphere of the old town. There are plenty of boutique hotels and lovely guesthouses to choose from in both areas.

Hotels in Ragusa 😴

Day 13-14: Siracusa (Final Days of your Sicily Road Trip)

As the end of your Sicily road trip draws near, embrace the true Dolce Vita lifestyle in the picturesque town of Siracusa. The old town is located on Ortigia Island, connected to the rest of Siracusa by two small bridges. There aren’t many cars here, so the quiet streets and tiny alleyways are perfect to stroll through at your own pace.

Here are all your hotel options in Siracusa.

Admire the ancient ruins of a Greek temple before browsing the Ortigia market for fresh fish, local wine, and heaped piles of herbs and spices. 

Spend the rest of your 14-day Sicily itinerary in Siracusa swimming off the rocky beaches and relaxing before returning home. Alternatively, squeeze in one last activity by cycling along the Rossana Maiorca coast path, and treat yourself to your last few plates of Sicilian pasta, creamy gelatos, and ice-cold granitas.

Tip: Close by is the Neapolis Archaeological Park, a collection of impressive Ancient Greek ruins. It’s well worth a visit to discover the fascinating history of this area of Sicily.

How to get from Ragusa to Siracusa

It is a 1.5-hour drive from Ragusa to Siracusa. On the way, you’ll pass through the town of Modica, famous for Aztec chocolate!

From Siracusa to the Airport

From Siracusa, it is a 1-1.5 hour drive (or train journey) to the international airport in Catania – and the end point of your 2-week Sicily road trip!

Where to Stay in Siracusa

Base yourself on the island of Ortigia, which is the most picturesque part of the town. Ask your hotel about where it is best to park before arriving.

Hotels in Siracusa 😴

How to Visit Sicily in a 2-week road trip

This Sicily road trip starts and ends in Catania, which has the main international airport on the island. However, there are five other airports in various cities. 

Alternatively, you can take a ferry from mainland Italy to any port city on the island. Best of all, most of these allow cars, making it the perfect option if you are planning an extended road trip around the whole country.

There is also a train from the mainland, which is transported over the Strait of Messina by ferry!

Book your transport to Sicily in advance here

Getting Around Sicily

The best way to follow a 14-day Sicily itinerary is by car! Having your own wheels gives you the ultimate freedom to explore at your own pace. It can also save you time in the long run, allowing you to visit those out-of-the-way destinations. 

In bigger cities like Catania and Palermo, it’s better to leave the car near your hotel while exploring, as busy roads make it difficult to navigate and park. 

Note: The historic centers of small towns often have limited parking. Because of this, it’s best to check with your hotel where it is best to park before your arrival.

By Train and Bus

If you’re not able to do a Sicily road trip, you can also travel around Sicily by public transport. However, this generally takes longer, and timetables aren’t always reliable. Trains run between most big towns, but days 11-14 of the Sicily itinerary may be more difficult as you will need to take buses.

See availability for bus and train trips in Sicily

Our Favorite Accommodations

Sicily has a huge range of accommodation options depending on your budget. Although there are not many hostels in the smaller towns, there are plenty of affordable guesthouses and B&Bs, beautiful hotels, rustic agriturismos, and luxury private villas. Here are our favorites from each destination on the Sicily road trip:

• Catania: Dome , Bed, Book & Breakfast Landolina , The Yard Hostel
• Taormina: B & B Teatro Greco 39 , Hotel Le Chevalier , Vilagos Apartments and Loft
• Cefalù: Al 33 Giri , Cortile Umberto I , Lirma B & B
• Palermo: Sui Tetti di Balarm Boutique Rooms , Family Affair , Canceddi B & B
• Trapani: Villa le Torri B & B , BADIA NUOVA Apart Hotel , Le Cupole Suites and Apartments
• Agrigento: Villa La Lumia Suites and Apartments , Casa Tita , B & B Triskéles
• Ragusa: Bed and Breakfast Terra del Sole Ibla , A.D. 1768 Boutique Hotel , Pura Vida Barocca
• Siracusa: Palazzo Alfeo Aparthotel , La Maison , La Residenza del Reginale

How Much Does a 2-week Sicily road trip Cost?

Sicily is a relatively affordable destination, with your most significant expenses being accommodation and car rental. It also depends on the time of year you visit. For example, the summer months are generally more expensive (with prices peaking in September). 

Costs of Traveling in Sicily

Travel on a budget in Sicily, from $370 − $430 USD weekly per person, mid-range $720 − $1690 USD, and high-end from $1690 − $2090 USD. However, costs depend on factors like accommodation, transportation, and activities. We did not include flights. Check flight prices here

• Hotels: $50 − $100 USD Check available hotels
• Hostels: $20 − $30 USD Check available hostels
• Transport: $10 − $30 USD Book public transport
• Car Rental: $100 − $150 USD Book a rental car
• Food: $10 − $20 USD
• Activities: $10 − $20 USD See tickets & tours
• Sim: $1 − $3 USD Get an eSIM or SIM here
• Travel Insurance: $2 − $6 USD Get Travel Insurance

Is Sicily Safe?

In general, Sicily is a very safe place to visit. Although the mafia is still active on the island, they have much less influence than before, and they don’t generally pose a threat to tourists. As in most places, keep an eye on personal belongings when out and about, and don’t leave anything in your car overnight. 

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Tip: Mount Etna is an active volcano, so always follow local advice and guidelines and check government websites before traveling. 

Best Time to Visit Sicily for 2 Weeks

The best time for a Sicily road trip is during the shoulder seasons of Spring and Fall when the weather is warm and sunny, and there are fewer crowds. However, bear in mind that September is actually the busiest month and, therefore, the most expensive. 

June-August is extremely hot. However, there is a lively atmosphere, and it is fantastic if you are looking to spend most of your 14-day Sicily itinerary at the beach. 

Alternatively, you may want to base your trip around one of Sicily’s incredible festivals, like Carnival in February, lively Easter celebrations, or the many seasonal street food festivals known as ‘sagre.’

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Sicily by Car – 10-Day Road Trip to Sicily

Home | Travel | Europe | Italy | Sicily | Sicily by Car – 10-Day Road Trip to Sicily

Taking a 10-day road trip to Sicily  was an incredible experience, as it was the first trip we took together. We wanted to visit Italy, and since we went in the summer, we decided on Sicily to avoid the heat and the tourists that overcrowd cities like Rome. Looking back, we fully enjoyed our journey exploring  Sicily by car !

Although there are many   things to do in Sicily , 10 days is plenty of time to tour the entire island and see the most important landmarks, especially if you rent a car.

Despite Sicilians’ reputation as bad drivers, we didn’t have any problems during our  10 days in Sicily . Of course, if you’re going to rent a car here, I recommend purchasing full coverage car insurance since our rental company tried to charge us for a scratch on the car that we weren’t responsible for. I also suggest checking our guide on how to find cheap rental cars .

But first, let me tell you how to optimize your time so you can take full advantage of your 10-day road trip in Sicily.

Best Sicily 10-day itinerary

While you can plan a  driving route in Sicily in fewer (or more) days, 10 days is enough time to drive around Sicily and see the island’s main attractions. To help you out, this is the best 10-day Sicily itinerary :

• Day 1 : Palermo
• Day 2 : Monreale and Cefalù
• Day 3 : Stromboli
• Day 4 : Taormina
• Day 5 : Climb Mount Etna
• Day 6 : Syracuse
• Day 7 : Noto, Modica, and Ragusa
• Day 8 : Agriento and Scala dei Turchi
• Day 9 : Selinunte, Marsala, and Trapani
• Day 10 : Zingaro Nature Reserve

Day 1: Palermo – The beginning of your road trip to Sicily

♦   20 miles (40 min by car)

My ideal  10-day Sicily itinerary  begins in Palermo , the capital city. Parking in the center of Palermo is indeed pure chaos, but the airport is about 40 minutes away, so it’s easier to pick up your rental car as soon as you land. That way, you won’t have to waste time making the journey back to the airport the next day.

There are lots of cool  things to do in Palermo , but you can see all the main points of interest in one day. If you don’t want to walk all day long, you can take this hop-on/hop-off bus , which follows two tourist routes that stop at all the important sites. You can also take this free tour  to get to know some of the most iconic attractions in the city.

If you’re going to explore on your own, I suggest spending the morning visiting the Teatro Massimo , the largest opera house in Italy; as well as the  Vucciria  market, where you can find all kinds of products from southern Italy. I also recommend visiting the  Praetorian Fountain  in Piazza Pretoria, the famous  Quattro Canti  square, and the  Palermo Cathedral , a magnificent structure that outshines the Monreale Cathedral.

Around lunchtime, be sure to check out the food at Vucciria market or Pizza Ferrari. We ate at this pizzeria and it was one of the best pizzas we had in Sicily. That said, the  arancini  at La Vucciria is also spectacular.

During your  driving tour through Sicily , you must stop at the  Palace of the Normans , one of the most historical places in Palermo. I recommend taking this  guided tour  in the afternoon to learn more about the palace, as well as the  Palatine Chapel  and the  Capuchin Catacombs .

Finally, if you’re into the nightlife scene, the best party spot is the area around La Vucciria.

Day 1 of your Sicily road trip – Recommended accommodations

For your first night in Sicily, I recommend staying in the city center so you can be close to all the main points of interest. Just be sure to  plan where you’re going to park  since some hotels don’t offer parking.

These are my recommended hotels for the first night of your  Sicily trip :

• Casa Nostra Boutique Hotel – This hotel has private parking for $18/day
• Grand Hotel et Des Palmes
• Politeama Palace

Day 2: Monreale and Cefalù – Two cool places to visit in Sicily by rental car

♦   135 miles (3 hrs by car)

To make the most of day 2 of your  10-day Sicily itinerary , I recommend getting up early and heading to the  Monreale Cathedral . It’s about 30 minutes from the center of Palermo by car, and it’s one of the island’s most famous cathedrals, as well as a  UNESCO  World Heritage Site.

The next stop is Cefalù, which is about an hour’s drive away. This small coastal town is perfect for a  Sicily day trip  because you can see all the important places in one day. Some of the  top things to do in Cefalù  include climbing atop  La Rocca  for incredible views, visiting the Norman-style  Cefalù Cathedral and the Mandralisca Museum, and seeing the Fiume Cefalino  medieval wash-house.

Besides being so-called the Norman citadel, Cefalù is also famous for its lovely beaches, so I recommend taking this boat tour  to explore the coast. For something to eat, I suggest dining at Al Faro, which offers stunning ocean views. And, for dessert, check out the corner pastry shop at Piazza del Duomo, which has awesome cannoli.

To end this second day of your  Sicily road trip , drive to Milazzo, which is about an hour and a half away (95 miles). In the morning, you can take the ferry to the Aeolian Islands, a must-see during your  tour around Sicily .

Day 2 of your 10-day Sicily itinerary – Recommended accommodations

For the second night of your  10-day Sicily itinerary , I recommend sleeping in Milazzo. These are the best options near the ferry terminal:

• Eolian Milazzo Hotel
• Hotel La Bussola
• Hotel Milazzo

Day 3: Stromboli – The best place to see Sicily in 10 days

♦   2 hrs by ferry

From Milazzo, you can take a ferry to  Stromboli , one of the most beautiful places we visited during our  10 days in Sicily . I recommend taking the first ferry from  this company , which takes about 2 hours to reach the island.

Stromboli is one of the best Aeolian Islands, thanks to its active Stromboli volcano, a must-see during your  Sicily road trip .

Moreover, Stromboli has a lovely village full of narrow, white streets. You won’t see cars here, just bicycles, motorcycles, and classic Piaggo Apes, which are Italian three-wheeled vehicles. Walking through the town is a pleasant experience, and while you’re there, I recommend visiting the  Parish of San Vincenzo Ferreri  and the beautiful black sand beaches, such as the  Aeolus Grotto .

When it’s time to eat, head to La Terrazza di Eolo, which overlooks the Strombolicchio, a volcanic sea stack.

Thanks to its size, it’s easy to  visit Stromboli in one day . That said, I suggest staying overnight so you can take  this hiking excursion to the top of the Stromboli volcano to see the lava flows. Climbing the volcano without a certified guide is not only dangerous, but also illegal, so if you want to do this activity, be sure to book in advance.

Day 3 of your route through Sicily by car – Recommended accommodations

The best way to maximize your  Sicily day trip  is by staying overnight in Stromboli. The town is beautiful but quite small, so there aren’t many accommodations. I recommend booking one of these in advance so you can get a good night’s rest and continue  traveling around Sicily  in the morning:

• Hotel Ossidiana Stromboli
• Il Gabbiano Relais in Stromboli
• La Sirenetta Park Hotel

Day 4: Taormina – An essential stop on your road trip through Sicily

♦   2 hrs by ferry + 55 miles (1 hr 30 min by car)

After visiting beautiful Stromboli, the next thing to do on your  10-day Sicily itinerary  is to take the return ferry and head to  Taormina . This lovely city is about an hour and a half drive from Milazzo.

However, before arriving in Taormina, I recommend making a stop in  Savoca , especially if you’re a fan of  The Godfather . Here, you can walk through some famous areas that were featured in scenes from the movie, and it’s one of the best  things to see in Savoca .

As for Taormina, this city is known for its  Greek theater , which dates back to the 3rd century B.C. In the 19th century, it became a luxury tourist destination for European nobles, and today, it’s one of the most impressive sites in Italy.

Moreover, Taormina sits on a cliffside, over 650 feet above sea level, making it one of the most magnificent stops on your  Sicily road trip . Plus, there are many  things to do in Taormina . Besides visiting the Greek theater, you can walk along Corso Umberto Street and stop by the Duomo di Taormina cathedral and Piazza IX Aprile.

I also recommend riding the funicular down to  Isola Bella , a small island with a hidden residence that has housed several famous guests over the years.

For one of the best sunsets in Italy, go up to  Sanctuary Madonna della Rocca , where you’ll get stunning city views on one side while overlooking Mount Etna on the other.

Finally, if you’re looking for a good place to have lunch or dinner, I highly recommend  Pizzeria Villa Zuccaro , which was awarded the honor of second-best pizza in the world.

Day 4 of your Sicily trip – Recommended accommodations

Taormina is one of the best places to stay in Sicily, especially if you want a luxury hotel. So, for your fourth day traveling through  Sicily by car , I recommend these accommodations:

• Grand Hotel Timeo, A Belmond Hotel – Located in historical old town
• La Plage Resort – This hotel has a private beach
• Villa Sant’Andrea, A Belmond Hotel
• NH Collection Taormina

Day 5: Climb the Etna volcano – The best thing to do in Sicily in 10 days

♦   100 miles (2 hrs 15 min by car)

Mount Etna  is one of the most essential stops on any  Sicily road trip . Unfortunately, our tour got canceled because the volcano erupted right before we arrived in Sicily. However, if you have the chance to go, I recommend  this hiking tour .

During this excursion, you’ll take a guided hike to explore the stunning scenery of Mount Etna, 11,000 feet above sea level. You’ll ride a cable car and Jeep up the volcano, then do a 1.5-hour trek to the final summit.

This hike will take up your entire morning, but if you have the energy for it, you can take advantage of the natural beauty of  Gole dell Alcantara , a basalt canyon formed millions of years ago after a volcanic eruption.

While you’re in the area, you can also  visit Aci Trezza , a charming coastal village where you’ll find the popular Faraglioni, a group of small sea stacks formed by Etna’s volcanic activity.

We decided to spend the night here since we wanted some peace and quiet. However, if you prefer the nightlife, you can stay in  Catania , an important city in Eastern Sicily. It’s just 20 minutes away and even has an international airport.

If your  Sicily driving itinerary  includes an overnight stay in Aci Trezza, I recommend having dinner at  La Cambusa del Capitano .

Day 5 of your road trip through Sicily – Recommended accommodations

For day 5 of your  Sicily road trip , these are the top hotels in Aci Trezza and Catania:

• Ciclope Resort – Aci Trezza
• Il Principe Hotel Catania – Catania
• Duomo Luxury Suites – Catania

Day 6: Syracuse – An essential stop on your route through Sicily by car

♦   70 miles (1 hr 40 min by car)

If you spent the night in Aci Trezza, I suggest waking up early to enjoy the beautiful sunrise as it lights up the Faraglioni. Then, hop in the car, and drive about 1.5 hours to  Syracuse , another can’t-miss stop on your  10-day Sicily itinerary .

Syracuse is special because it’s one of the most historical Greek cities in Italy. While there are lots of attractions you can visit in  Syracuse in one day , I recommend booking  this tour , which will make the most of your time while teaching you more about the history of the town.

During the tour, you’ll visit the  Archaeological Park of Neapolis , where you’ll see a Greek amphitheater, the altar of Hiero II, the Ear of Dionysius cave, and the Greek theater. The tour also includes a stop on the island of  Ortygia  in the historical center of Syracuse. There, you’ll visit the Cathedral of Syracuse, the Fountain of Arethusa, the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, and other tourist attractions.

If you have time in the afternoon, I suggest going to the protected marine area of Plemmirio, which is just 20 minutes outside the city and boasts hidden coves.

Finally, take a break at  La Cambusa  in Ortygia, where you can enjoy some delicious food.

Day 6 of your Sicily road trip – Recommended accommodations

On the sixth night of your  10-day Sicily road trip , I suggest staying overnight in Ortygia so you can see this beautiful city at night. Here are my top hotel recommendations:

• Hotel Livingston
• Hotel Gargallo
• Hotel Henry’s House

Day 7: Noto, Modica, and Ragusa – Must-sees on your 10-day Sicily itinerary

♦   55 miles (1 hr 45 min by car)

On day 7 of your  driving tour of Sicily , you’ll get to explore the southeastern part of the island. This area suffered a magnitude 7.4 earthquake in 1963, in which nearly all the buildings collapsed. Afterward, the city attempted to rebuild the area in a style that later became known as Sicilian Baroque.

The three most important cities here are Noto, Modica, and Ragusa.  Noto , which is referred to as the Garden of Stone and an excellent example of Sicilian Baroque, is a must-see on your  10-day Sicily itinerary  if you want to witness this distinct architectural style.

Modica  is known for manufacturing cocoa, and the chocolate they produce here is made through a cold brewing process, similar to what the Aztecs did. Here, you can find the  Antica Dolceria Bonajuto , the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily.

Finally,  Ragusa  is a lovely town perched on a hill, and from here, you can see the areas affected by the famous earthquake. I suggest looking through our guide on  what to see in southeast Sicily  to find more things to do around Noto, Modica, and Ragusa.

On the other hand, if you prefer nature over history and architecture, you can skip one of these cities and instead go to the  Cavagrande del Cassibile Nature Reserve . Here, you’ll find lovely natural pools where you can swim and relax.

Day 7 of your Sicily road trip – Recommended accommodations

After this seventh day of  driving around Sicily , I recommend stopping in Ragusa since it’s the closest to your next stop. These are my favorite hotels in the area:

• Itria Palace
• De Stefano Palace Luxury Hotel
• Iblaresort Boutique Hotel

Day 8: Agrigento and Scala dei Turchi – Essential stops on your Sicily road trip

♦   85 miles (2 hrs 20 min by car)

On your eighth day traveling around  Sicily by car , you’ll visit Agrigento, which has the best-preserved Greek temples in the world. Here, you’ll find the Valley of the Temples, a highlight on any Sicily itinerary.

The Valley of the Temples, a  UNESCO  World Heritage Site, is an archaeological expanse containing several important ruins, such as the temples of Hera, Hephaestus, and Heracles. All of these temples are well-preserved, except for that of Hephaestus.

Visiting all of the temples in one day just isn’t possible, but this  e-scooter tour  will help you see the most famous ones while learning some little-known details you might have otherwise missed.

During day 8 of your  10-day Sicily itinerary , you can also visit the  Scala dei Turchi  (Staircase of the Turks). This white stone cliff has taken on a peculiar shape thanks to years of wind and water erosion, and it’s quite a popular sight, so I highly recommend it!

Day 8 of your route through Sicily by rental car – Recommended accommodations

After an intense day exploring the Valley of the Temples and Scala dei Turchi, you’ll want to sleep in a comfortable bed. Here are the best hotels in Agrigento:

• Hotel Villa Athena
• Diodorus Luxury Experience
• Doric Boutique Hotel

Day 9: Selinunte, Marsala, and Trapani – The best things to see on your Sicily road trip

♦   105 miles (3 hrs by car)

On your 9th day  driving around Sicily , you’ll return to the western side of the island. It’s a lot of driving, so I recommend an early wake-up call so you can get on the road as early as possible.

As you make your way to Trapani, you might want to stop at  Selinunte , an archaeological site with ancient temples. While many of the structures are in ruins and it’s not clear who they’re devoted to, they’re still quite interesting.

Another pitstop I recommend is  Marsala , which is known for its amazing wine. There is no better way to enjoy this town than by taking a  winery tour with wine tasting .

Once in  Trapani , be sure to visit the beautiful historic center, which is free of cars. Here, you can walk around and discover the most intriguing attractions, such as Via Garibaldi, which is full of Baroque palaces. Also, be sure to walk along Via Vittorio Emanuele and check out the churches. After all, Trapani is known as “the city of 100 churches.”

Finally, end this portion of your  Sicily road trip with a visit to the Trapani Salt Pans, which take on an incredible glow at sunset.

Day 9 of your road trip through Sicily – Recommended accommodations

These are the best accommodations in Trapani so you can recharge for the final day of your  driving tour through Sicily :

• Badia Nuova Apart Hotel
• Hotel San Michele
• Crystal Hotel

Day 10: Zingaro Nature Reserve – The last stop on your 10-day Sicily itinerary

For the last day on your  10-day Sicily itinerary , I recommend passing through  Erice , a gorgeous medieval town overlooking the water from nearly 2,500 feet above sea level. From here, you can get amazing views of the Trapani Salt Flats and the Aegadian Islands.

After this quick stop, you can visit the  Zingaro Nature Reserve , which boasts some of Sicily’s most incredible natural landscapes. While there are several trails, I recommend the one that runs along the coast and passes by a few coves and wild beaches. It’s a great way to see the native flora and fauna, too.

After a pleasant day in nature, continue your  driving route through Sicily  by heading back to Palermo.

On the way to the capital city, you can visit the  Temple of Segesta , which is in the city of the same name. While its construction was never completed, the temple has become one of the most impressive in Sicily, so it’s a must-see.

Day 10 of your road trip through Sicily – Recommended accommodations

For your last night in Sicily, I suggest booking a room at one of the hotels I recommended in Palermo. If you have some time before your flight, you might want to spend some time exploring the capital city, visiting some places you couldn’t see your first time here.

If you’re short on time and have to catch an early flight, I recommend staying at a hotel near the airport:

• Residence Villa Rosa dei Venti
• Hotel Il Pirata
• CDSHotels Terrasini – Città del Mare

There you have it, a full itinerary to explore  Sicily by car in 10 days . All that’s left to do is start packing your bags!

Of course, you can modify this  Sicily driving tour  by skipping some attractions or adding a few more. If you don’t have that much time, I suggest skipping the Aeolian Islands and Stromboli. On the other hand, if you can afford an extra day or two, the Aegadian Islands are worth visiting, and  this excursion  from Trapani makes it very easy.

Finally, if you have any questions about the attractions and places in this guide, check out our article on the  best things to do in Sicily . You can also leave me a comment below and I’ll try to help you as much as I can.

I hope you enjoy your  road trip through Sicily  as much as we enjoyed ours! Happy travels!

Ascen Aynat

20 replies on “ Sicily by Car – 10-Day Road Trip to Sicily ”

Hi, can you please help us with some advice. We are flying into Palermo Sicily 1st October 2023 we are going to rent a car from the airport. Driving east on the E90 motorway 3 hr 36 min to Savoca. How do I pay for the Tolls on the motorway, is there like a toll bouth, do I pay with cash or card, are their petrol stations on the motorways. Kind regards Brian McMahon

Hi Brian, You can pay the tolls with a credit card. There are gas stations along the highway, but be aware that some places may only accept cash.

I’m planning a 14 night trip to Sicily with a car rental. Thinking of landing in Catania and: 3-4 nights Ortigia with trips to Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Marzamemi), 4 nights Taormina, 2 nights Cefalù, 4 nights Castellamare del Golfo with trips to San Vito Lo Capo, Scopelly, Trapani, Erice, Favignana, Segesta. Fly out of Palermo.

Do you have any suggestions on the itinerary? Are 4 nights in Ortigia too much? Would you break up the 4 nights in Castellamare to 2 nights in Castellamare and 2 nights in Trapani?

Hi Christine, 3-4 nights in Ortigia is perfect. I think staying longer in Trapani is a good idea since there is a lot to see there. Also, it’s a lot of driving, so staying overnight for a couple of nights can break up your Sicily road trip a bit. Hope that helps!

What route could you recommend…renting a car. Landing in Catania…want to visit Catania, Taormina, etna, Siracusa (the island specifically ) cefalu, agrigento, trapani & Palermo…. I was thinking of a few days in Catania-without a car…day trip company to etna, Taormina, transit to Siracusa for 1-2 nights on the island, back in Siracusa grab a car to travel west, return upon arrival in Palermo, then visit there for last couple days before our overnight ferry to Naples. OR Fly into Palermo, no car for a few days and visit trapani with a group tour, rent car on way out of Palermo to agrigento, Siracusa etc, Catania, etna, Taormina, cefalu, return to Palermo.

Thoughts? We thought we could take trains/busses but I’m hearing horror stories of schedules not being followed, broken down trains slower than busses…but busses are a free for all a few Sicilian bloggers said… my mom is 79 and is not prepared to elbow her way onto a bus lol

Sicily 12-13 days. Then 4 days a Amalfi coast, 2 nights Ischia, 2 Capri. 1 night Rome before departure.

Hi Janine, I liked your second itinerary better. I do recommend renting a car. Public transport in Sicily is not very reliable and you will save time renting your own car.

Enjoyed your blog. My husband and I plan to go this fall. We don’t speak Italian. Did you have trouble communicating, especially in smaller towns, or do you speak the language? I’ve been to a small town in Sicily about 4 years ago when my brother lived there. No one spoke English. So when I wasn’t with him, the only way I could communicate with the hotel staff (my shower door is broken; my hairdryer isn’t working, etc. ) was using a translation app. Now we’re considering hiring a tour company where we’d have a driver/interpreter. But you did it on your own. What problems, if any, did you run into? Thanks!

Dan lived in Italy for one year and can speak Italian. I don’t speak Italian but I remember communicating in English with no issues.

This looks like a terrific 10 day trip. How do we modify it if we arrive from the car ferry at Messina please? We are planning to travel to Sicily and drive in September 2022.

You are going to have so much fun! If you are arriving in Messina, just start with day 4 in our 10-day Sicily Road Trip itinerary (Taormina) and get to day 1-3 at the end of your trip.

Let me know if you have any other questions, Ascen

Wonderful summary! Thank you for this. Can you please clarify more on the car parking, driving and usefulness? We essentially want to do the same trip in a couple of weeks but unsure how a car can be accommodated (do we have to pay parking fees everywhere? Are roads easy to navigate?)

Another question: your trip was in July, which I assume is pretty hot weather – did you not need to be near the water/pools to cool off? Thanks a lot!

Thanks Rasha,

Driving in Sicily can be chaotic in big cities like Palermo or Catania, but it’s generally fine across the island. In some small popular towns and villages there are parking fees, like in Taormina, but we parked for free in most of the locations.

As regards the Sicilian heat, there are incredible beaches and delicious Sicilian ice creams to cool off 😉

Have fun in your trip! Dan

Hi Ascen, We are completing a 8 night road trip around Sicily in May 2020. Your blog is excellent and my husband is addicted to a good pizza so not doubt we will try your recommendation in Taormina. Thanks for sharing your adventures with us. Leanne

Great! You will find plenty of nice places where you can eat great pizzas. I miss Italy so much! Ascen

This is a wonderfully comprehensive 10 day itinerary to visit the north! I’ve been checking out many blogs since I plan to go in May 2020. Yours is one of the best if not the BEST! Please continue!! Could you do a 10 day itinerary for the South? How about one for seniors and one for families? Thank you and safe travels for the future.

Hi Marietta,

Thanks for your nice words!

We’ll try to add more itinerary options for the South in the future. Enjoy your trip to Sicily this year!

Awesome blog. Keep up the good work guys !

Thanks Antony! Glad to see you found our blog useful!

Have a nice trip in Sicily 😉

Really awesome. Loved it. Keep sharing your experience! Fantastically photographed!

Thank you Sarah! Thanks for your kind words 😉

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The most scenic road trips in Sicily: volcanoes, baroque beauty and fabulous food

Mar 9, 2024 • 6 min read

Explore the beauty of Sicily with our pick of the best road trips on the island © VvoeVale / Getty Images

As the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily is a grand road trip destination that doesn’t just stop at the beautiful blue waters that fringe its rocky coastline. Winding pastoral roads meander through the hilly hinterlands near Palermo and up to the dark volcanic slopes of the testy Mount Etna . At the crossroads of history, Sicily’s relics of the past are delivered by the dozen with Greek and Roman ruins and medieval and baroque towns that will charm you with their beauty. 

Here are some ideas to plan a thorough Sicily road trip – including which inner village is hiding the best cannoli.

1. Around Mount Etna

Best road trip for adventurous wine-lovers

Catania—Catania; 162 km (100 miles); allow one or two days

You could circle Europe’s most active volcano in a day by car, but a longer trip gives you more time to appreciate the unique terroir of this microregion that produces some of Sicily’s finest wines. You’ll find unique stays in the small towns throughout the region, like Palazzo Previtera , a family-owned boutique hotel in Linguaglossa, or accommodations in the countryside with a cozy agriturismo or winery stay. 

Also consider making space in the itinerary for a climb to the top of Mount Etna, or take the car as high as it can go to Rifugio Sapienza.

2. West Coast

Best road trip for families

Palermo—Marsala; 221 km (137 miles) allow two or three days

Heading west from Palermo, you’ll find some of the best swimming spots in Sicily, including the family-friendly resort town of San Vito Lo Capo and inspiring historic sights like medieval castles and fortresses. 

First, though, stop by the temple of Segesta to see a remarkably intact two-thousand-year-old temple. If you’re outdoorsy, you can also try the trails at the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro , or continue your journey towards Erice , an impossibly-placed village with an impressive fortress. Stop in Trapani , the largest city on Sicily’s west coast and your access point to catch a ferry to the Egadi Islands. Keep driving along the coast, and you’ll end up in Marsala , where you can tour the salt flats, relax on more sandy beaches and sample its sweet dessert wine.

Planning tip: You can skip the drive up the mountain to Erice by taking the cable car from Trapani. 

3. Palermo to Agrigento

Best for small-town adventures

Palermo—Agrigento; 165 km (102 miles); allow one or two days

Leaving the commotion of Palermo behind you, start this road trip with something sweet by first stopping in the town of Piana degli Albanese, where Sicilians widely agree Extra Bar Petta makes the best cannoli on the island. Afterward, you can pass through the real Corleone to learn the sobering truth of the mafia and the inspiring story of the anti-mafia movement at CIDMA . 

From Corleone, you can go east and make a detour to pay tribute to Old Blue Eyes in Leccara Friddi, the proud ancestral home of Frank Sinatra. Or head west to Giuliana, where an incredible view of the southern part of the island is available from the old castle walls. You’ll finish this tour of small-town Sicily in Agrigento and Valle dei Templi , a sprawling archeological complex dating back to ancient Greece.

Local tip: No matter how you get to Agrigento, the famous Scala dei Turchei beach is always worth a visit, especially if you want to relax after a long day of sightseeing in the ruins.

4. Palermo to Catania

Best for coastal sightseeing

Palermo—Catania; 317 km (197 miles); allow two or three days

Heading east from Palermo, the beaches will get rockier, so be sure to make that first stop in sandy  Cefalù , a charming seaside village and a popular vacation spot. Follow the coastal route to Milazzo , where you could catch a ferry to the Aeolian Islands ; or continue towards Messina and consider going all the way to the point of Torre Faro, where you will be able to see mainland Italy across the Strait of Messina’s narrowest point, only 5km wide. 

Follow the coast south to Taormina , where it’s worth finding a hotel on the low road near Isola Bella — like the Panoramic Hotel , which gives you a picture-perfect view of the island — and taking the cable car up to the mountainous city to enjoy the luxury shopping and Mount Etna Views from the awe-inspiring Greek Theatre . On the way to Catania from Taormina, consider hopping off the highway and booking a guided hike to the summit of Mount Etna.

Planning tip: The fastest – but less scenic – way to make this trip would be to cut through the island. Although, it does offer a chance to see the medieval city of Enna , which played an important role in the island’s history.

5. Syracuse and the Southeast

Best for ancient and baroque gems

Catania—Ragusa; 170 km (105 miles, allow two to three days)

Starting from Catania, follow the coastal road south to Syracuse and Ortigia, where you can wander the ancient ruins and stone quarries of the ancient city and the historic island that promises great nightlife on top of historic attractions. Keep going south, and you’ll reach Noto , one of the most highly-praised towns in Sicily for the beauty of its baroque architecture. After a stroll around town, continue down the coast to the small beach town of Marzemmi for a little respite on the Ionian Sea. 

Once you’re satisfied with the southeastern tip of the island, turn west to continue your baroque journey in the smaller towns of Modica and Ragusa , which are particularly well-known and sought-after gastronomy destinations, with an array of Michelin-star restaurants like the two-star Duomo being the prime foodie attraction.

Planning tip: The best way to enjoy one of the ancient Greek theaters outside of a daytime visit is to book a ticket to a performance. Just make sure to buy your tickets in advance. 

Tips for driving in Sicily

Driving in Sicily is not for the faint of heart. The road culture is aggressive, and you will see other drivers pulling off daring maneuvers mid-gridlock. You will need a heightened sense of awareness and to take extra care when driving in big city centers. Also, be prepared to find rough road conditions if taking shortcuts in rural hilly areas. You may have to stop for animal crossings. 

When driving in small medieval towns, prepare yourself to navigate narrow and steep streets, and don’t put all your trust in the GPS. When in doubt, find a central place to park and go on foot if you can, especially if the area is marked Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL), which means you could be fined if you enter by car anyway. Look for the white circle with a red outline. 

This article was first published November 2021 and updated March 2024

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(Almost) A month in Sicily

Some Background In September 2021, we began what was supposed to be a 4 week circumnavigation of Sicily, starting in Palermo for 5 nights, Cefalu for 3 and Petralia Soprana for 3. When a death in our family abruptly ended that trip, we planned to return. We’ve just come back from that month-long return. Before that, here are a few thoughts on Palermo, Cefalu and Petralia Soprana. We had 5 nights in Palermo, which for us was just right. Palermo is church- and palazzo-heavy, but the Teatro Massimo, duomo, and Salinas archeological museum were all worth visiting. Having seen plenty of catacombs elsewhere, we skipped the Capuchin version here. We liked Palermo’s vibe a lot, and spent a good chunk of time just wandering the streets. I can see where it wouldn’t appeal to some, but being a city grit and grime devotee, I enjoyed it. Cefalu was charming, and the antithesis of Palermo. We stayed 4 nights, planning to make it a rest stop, but most people I think would give it a half-to-a-whole day. More time gave us the opportunity to really explore the backstreets of the town, make repeat visits to favorite spots, to meet more locals, including an interesting man who makes his living making elaborate wood carvings. Since woodworking is one of my husband’s hobbies, we spent considerable time there, although I was done in about 20 minutes. They were not, so I used the time for a chance to sit down and have a cup of tea. We stayed at a resort above the town, mostly because we had planned to have a car (but a year after our first cancelled attempt, I switched to using a driver. We had a credit at the hotel in Cefalu, so I stuck with it.) Taxis up and down to town were 10 euro each way. Not perfect, but it worked for us. I added Petralia Soprana to our itinerary after reading about it in Lonely Planet. We were there in October, which meant it was a definitely out-of-season quiet stone village, but a refreshing look at the interior of the island. We visited the Santuario di Gibilmanna and Castelbono for a lunch featuring manna en route. The Nebrodi mountains were beautiful, and our time there was enjoyable.

How do I do this? Let's try chapter 1 now. Catania This year, we chose to pick up where we left off minus our previously planned wine country drive and Etna expedition. Our first stop was Catania for 3 nights. While on the dirty (but not as much as Trapani as we later learned) and noisy side, we found Catania to be a great first stop for jumping right back into Sicily. We didn’t feel any crime threat that is sometimes mentioned in comments on Catania. The subway, while limited in its scope, was cheap, clean, at the times we were on it, uncrowded. An enthusiastic local citizen jumped in to help us with the ticket machine, which wasn’t all that complicated. Nevertheless, it was very nice to have our unexpected chat with a college student. She was the friendliest person we met in Catania. Back to the sights. Of course, spots like the fish market with lots to see and lots of crowds. are a pickpocket’s heaven, so beware. If not wearing a money belt, with our important papers and extra cash safely secured in the apartment, we felt completely fine. Sadly, the Museum of the Allied Landings in Sicily was closed due to a lack of electricity. We visited without calling first, so our fault for that disappointment, but the staff there were nice in pointing out some of the exterior-access areas, including the courtyard where the sulfur-processing chimney stacks are located and one of the smelters (and smell) from the war era are still available. Oddly enough, the allies bombed the facility but managed to miss 3 or 4 large smokestacks. Anyway, we called each day afterward, but they never picked up, so we presumed the power was still out when we left Catania. It was easy to cover the compact highlights of the Duomo, the fish market, as well as other stops on the walking tour. The Catanians serve the most unusual concoction of a bread they call a brioche and granita. (But, other than in shape, it bears no resemblance to the French brioche, as cornetti resemble croissants in shape, but not texture or flavor.) While a little weird at first, it grows on you. The bread kills the brain freeze effect of the granita. And it meets the bread/sweet food groups standard for breakfast, so there you go. Our much-anticipated train ride around Etna was a bust I reviewed separately. Our food experiences in Catania were great. See separate reviews of Me Cumpari Turiddo and Sagre if you are interested.

OK, that worked, on to... Siracusa We really enjoyed our 5 nights in Siracusa. In terms of ambiance, food and accommodations, it was a winner. Because we are slow travelers, we nearly always stay in Airbnbs or VRBOs. We like having the kitchen and laundry facilities for breakfasts and occasional dinners at home. Our apartment in Ortigia was spacious, clean, and comfortable and located around the corner for what was to become our favorite gelateria in Sicily. We are somewhat limited in our selection in that my husband can’t easily manage steps and narrow stairwells, so another first floor with elevator apartment fit the bill just fine. I reviewed our evening at the puppet theatre earlier, and looking back, it was one of the highlights of our trip. The time we had there allowed us to leisurely explore the city, both Ortigia and the mainland as well, covering all the stops in the book with time to spare for wandering. In an earlier review, I mentioned the usefulness of the small HOHO busses. At 5 euro for an all-day ride, it was well worth it. Be aware, however, that they do not accept credit cards on board and having the exact fare ready is helpful to everyone. If you can’t quite fit on one bus, stand by as there usually one very close behind it. We used the fountain Corso Giacomo Matteotti stop, as it was a block from our apartment. It was always busy, so waiting for the second bus was a technique we picked up on early. We never did figure out if there was a schedule or not, but it really didn’t matter in that one showed up within 10-15 minutes. In the entire time we were there, we did not see any of the navetta electric busses described in the book, unless they were equivalent to, or perhaps replaced by, what we considered the HOHO bus, which made the entire circuit of the periphery of Ortigia and out to the mainland sites. It was also useful, and more cost-effective to use to get to the bus and train stations, taking us to the train we took to Noto, reviewed separately. Not quite duomo’ed-out yet, we of course visited Siracusa’s, but we also enjoyed the visit to the Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime, too. The Santuario’s weekday hours of which have changed to 0730 – 1230 and 1530 - 1930. On Sunday the schedule is 0730 – 1300 and 1530 - 2045. Mass times are daily at 8 am 10 am (forgot to write down the Sunday schedule) and they frown on tourist visits, of course, at those times, but the church is accessible if you are discreet. We were there at 1530, joined by a small, but manageable crowd. The space is so big than other at the Madonna herself, you didn’t really feel accompanied. BTW, I kept a respectful distance from her at first, but when I realized that the Sacrament was only located on side altars, I moved in much closer for a few photos. Ditto on not being archeological-museum’ed out at that point, so we took a few hours to visit the Paolo Orsi Museum near to the church. It was as promised -- a very large collection laid out in a bewildering fashion, and the coin collection was closed, so be aware of those caveats. The wheelchair here was very helpful. It was in the those clean restrooms on the basement level that hit our first trifecta of Sicilian public bathrooms – toilet paper, soap and paper towels,. While we got used to it, I never fully understood that island-wide glaring lack of public services. Always carry your own tp, and a few paper towels if you don’t like drying your hands on your trousers. We’re not big shoppers, but husband wanted a leather belt and I needed a keychain. We were very happily surprised with a small shop near the apartment, Il Piacere della Pelle. The owner learned his trade from his father, and his work was beautiful. He customized my keyfob and took time to carefully size a belt to my husband’s measurements. Since we were the only ones in the store, we enjoyed the time to have an interesting conversation while we shopped.

Ragusa September 10, on to Ragusa, with a private driver, this time from Sicily Driver Service. They were reasonably priced and like all the others we used, the driver’s English was fine and the car was spotless. This was our only stop we weren’t in an Airbnb. The Evoca, a B&B booked on booking.com was a delightful, quiet respite which I reviewed earlier. There were just a dozen steps here joining our room to the dining room, but with a landing midway, they were easily manageable. The staff were happy to move our bags from the entry to our room and back again. Even though they were easy for me to move, it was thoughtful of the owner to jump right in. I really appreciate little things like that. His mom drove us down to the lower carpark where we met Roberto Sapone, are driver to Agrigento with enroute stops. (More on this later.) I thought Ragusa was charming. Small, and for most people, probably covered fairly well in a day, we spent 3 nights. We did the stair climb, but for us, it was a stair descend (reviewed separately), and the walking tour, but the highlight was our private tour with Raffaele at Cinabro Carrettiere. We expected an hour and got 2 on the history, construction process and marketing of the carts with Raffaele. I don’t know if the small shop is open to the public, but even if it is, I’d suggest making a reservation. ( [email protected] ) The personalized experience was worth the 10 euros for sure. We took our third day as a rest day, opting out of the day trip to Modica or Scili, which I would have liked to have done, but slowing down every once in a while is good for both of us. Be sure to check in with the helpful TI at least before you go (see Guides and TI in Ragusa post) as well as for information on the Donnafugata Theatre, Conversation Circle and Palazzo Arezzo di Trifiletti.) We passed on A Porte Aperte/Ibla 1860’s tour because for the prices, we felt it wasn’t worth it based on our interests.

Agrigento via Villa Romana del Casale Next, on to Agrigento via Villa Romana del Casale, Caltagirone, Piazza Armerina with the aforementioned Roberto Sapone. Due to my aversion to driving (and, god knows, parking), my husband’s age, my preference for comfort, and the cost and hassles associated with rental cars, we use private drivers. For this leg, I selected Mr. Sapone based on forum raves and suggestion in the book. He was personable, knowledgeable and an excellent driver, but I felt his fee was exorbitant at 350 euros for the day. He was the only driver I could find willing to do the itinerary I wanted, so we went with it, but I’m not sure I’d do it again. (I note, however, that it seems that 350 may be the going rate for a full day, as the recommended driver in Trapani charges the same for a full day.) We dropped the planned stop at Aidone Archeological Museum in lieu of a surgical strike for chocolate in Modica. Stops in Caltagirone and Piazza Armerina were also very brief, but good enough for our goals there. The beautiful Villa Romana del Casale has been reviewed to death, so I won’t go into any detail here other than to say that it was very crowded midday, so if you can plan your travel to be there at OOB, or late in the day presumably, you’d be better off. The entry fee has increased to 13 euro from 10 (I submitted all of the price increases and opening hour changes to guidebook updates.). Using “permesso” gets results, but not as much as you’d think in that most of the visitors are not Italian. No wheelchairs here. Our briefest overnight stop on our vacation was in Agrigento, with only 2 nights. While it was enough to see the Valley of the Temples and museum, it wasn’t enough to do much else. We had dinner after arriving from the day trip en route, and that was it for the night. After our visit to the Valley of the Temples, we started out on the town walk, but were unimpressed with the Via Aetna, so never finished it. We were planning to visit Mazara del Vallo’s kasbah, so I didn’t feel the need to search out the market here, which probably was a mistake (see Mazara del Vallo, below). We had two great meals at Sal8, across the alley from our apartment, so I felt the need to go no further on the gastronomic front. In several ways, Agrigento was the most stressful part of the trip. Back to the park for a moment. I had arranged a tour with Michele Gallo of the guidebook, but was disappointed. He was not available, but had other guides, so I was OK with that. He was responsive to emails (if you waited at least several days), and did make suggestions for accommodating my husband’s limitations and we set up a time. After trying to contact him to confirm several times within a few days of our scheduled time and getting no response, I sent an email cancelling and briefly explaining why. I received an answer to that one in a few minutes. Our cancellation saved us 180 euros, and frankly, in the end, we felt it was fine just using guidebook and, perhaps, cruising along with various groups which crowded around every stop (As sleazy as that seems, it wasn’t really avoidable, and I never stayed long. Bonus, depending on the group, it was fun for French, Italian and Portuguese comprehension practice!) We did have a wheelchair, and most of the site is at least navigable, but if you’re not familiar with electric models, make sure you get a thorough orientation. The staff didn’t seem to have the time or interest in explaining it well. The directional button and speed buttons were worn off, and we only figured it out halfway that there are gears/speed selection on the thing, so we crawled along for quite a while. Duh. So my legs got a little more tan and our hats were never more appreciated.

More on Agrigento.. Personally, I was disappointed with the treatment my husband received along the route. If some of the patrons had been able, I’m sure that they would have shoved him out of the way and trampled on to the next attraction. Very unusual and very rude, and by far, the most unpleasant experience of the trip, save our taxi experience. I’m chocking up the patrons-at-the-park experience to pressed tourists, as not an Italian voice was heard during our entire visit. Our taxi was arranged by our Airbnb host and getting there was fine, but we never connected with her for the return trip, so found another way home. (There are plenty of taxis at the main park entrance, BTW, so don’t worry about getting stuck out there.) She proceeded to WhatsApp call incessantly (which I declined) and threatened us with messages informing us that she knew where to find us and planned to come to the apartment and collect her 15 euros. After a few hours of silence, she backed down a little and dropped the threats if we agreed to pay up directly to the host. I finally blocked her and informed the host of our experience. She said she’d speak with the driver. Honestly, I was a little worried she’d be sitting at our front door when we left the next morning, but she was not. Whether our host contacted her or not I don’t know, but I was relieved to get out of town. At least our host’s restaurant recommendation hit the mark! While the park was frustrating at times, the museum was a delight. Not too crowded, and the exhibits were well organized and curated. The accessibility is great—ramps and elevators—but, alas, no wheelchairs to borrow. It’s a BYO operation. Word to the wise.

Trapani and day trips Lastly, Trapani for 10 nights before heading home. We used recommended driver Lillo Amato for the Agrigento to Trapani transfer, which was easy and pleasant until he couldn’t find our Airbnb, then we were treated to a loud albeit somewhat entertaining argument between him and the host. We eventually got there in one piece. I loved our Airbnb. In the heart of the historic center, it was a converted, rebuilt actually, garage with a small interior courtyard complete with grill, hammock, table and chairs and a welcome clothesline that I didn’t have to hang out a window to use. With no washing machine in Ragusa and no inclination to figure out the one in Agrigento, an Airbnb washer has never gotten a better workout. It was smaller than some Airbnbs on this trip, but still most adequate with a kitchen/dining/living room combination, bath and separate bedroom. The host supplied everything from a stocked-with-water, mixers and juices refrigerator to a complete first-aid kit, extra towels, mosquito coils for the garden, a well-equipped kitchen, guide books and maps, and instructions on everything from how to use the washer to turning the gas cooking bottle on and off. It was almost like living in your own home but with instructions. There was literally nothing lacking. It was clear that the host was meant to make his living in hospitality, and he owned at least 3 apartments in Trapani. At $140 a night, it was our most expensive accommodation, but well worth it. He also set us up with driver recommendations. We ended up choosing a friend of his who, while not a professional driver (never did figure out what he did for a living, as he was pretty much available for wherever and whenever we wanted to go), he more than adequately fit the bill. A lot of people, I know, are shaking their heads (if you’ve gotten this far!) at this time we spent here, but I like establishing a locals routine – morning trips to the bakery, chats with neighbors hanging out at street level (presumably escaping the stifling heat of their apartments), and being recognized at the local café. Also, after a long 3 weeks or so of travel, we needed some serious down time and an anchor for all the day trips we planned. Trapani was an excellent choice. With our time there, we had a couple of days to wander the town, which is small but pleasant. We never made it to the Optical Illusion Museum, or the Agostino Pepoli Museum, but by the time we got to Trapani, neither of us felt like we missed much. Our last day in town, we took a long walk and stumbled on the open-for-free palazzo of the turn-of-the-century politician, businessman and art collector Nunzio Nasi, for whom our street was named. The book’s town walk can be easily accomplished in an hour or two, which left us time to hit every open church, of which there are plenty, let me tell you, hang out in a couple of cafes and watch a little Italian TV (a goal, if you will, of my trip, as there’s nothing better for comprehension and vocabulary building. I recommend the shopping channel. They are over-the-top in their enthusiasm, and it was a hoot to watch.)

I didn’t consider a guide for Trapani; with lots of time, we didn’t feel the need to compress the entire town into an hour or two. After a down day, our first day trip was to Poggioreale, Cretti and Selinunte. Most travelers don’t have time for Poggioreale and Cretti, and that is understandable; they are well off the beaten track and of limited value for most people. Visiting a ghost town destroyed in massive 1968 earthquake for some reason intrigued me, but we were disappointed that a recently-constructed fence around the entire town completely cut off access. That detail had not made it into any of the research I did prior to our trip. I would guess that it was erected for safety and insurance reasons. More than 50 years after the quake, the buildings left standing were undoubtedly dangerous to the curiosity seekers. We were forced to peek in through the chain link fence down the main street, view the town from a road above, and received shared drone photos courtesy of our driver Giuseppe. Cretti is a modern art installation completely encasing the remains of the other town destroyed in the earthquake. It is a huge, stark white concrete collection of monoliths laid out exactly by street plan that existed at the time of the quake, hugging the side of a steep hill. No one there but us and a busload of German tourists who departed soon after we arrived. No admission fee; just a very quiet, wind-swept, thought provoking glance at what was, at one time, a community of a couple hundred, most of whom died in the quake. On to a happier phase of the day trip, a visit to Selinunte. Of the three ancient Greek sites, we liked this one the most. The weather was glorious, and the park is well mapped and explanations at each site were very helpful. Their website, visitselinunte.com, offers some excellent suggestions as to itineraries inside the park as well as useful tourist information for the area.

Our day trip to Erice was fun, but decidedly chilly. The elevation is up there; I was glad to have my trusty, unstylish cotton cardigan. Taking the bus up and the cable car down worked well for us. Nothing like a white-knuckle bus ride to get the blood flowing. There’s a reason many of the hairpin switchbacks are well-padded with brightly colored, painted tires. My admiration for Sicilian drivers, crazy or not with their speeding, tailgating, passing and parking wonders, was multiplied by scores sitting in the seat behind this driver. At the end of the day, taking the cable car down was easy, quiet (no line at 4 pm on a Sunday), and cheap. It was only diminished by the fact that the windows were so dirty that it was essentially impossible to see the Trapani or the coastline. Definitely not the same experience we had in Dubrovnik a few years ago. Too bad, too. It has real potential. Right off the top, let me say that the Pasticceria Maria Grammatico lives up to all the hype. The almond biscotti of various sizes, shapes and flavors were wonderful, but for us the standard was set here for the Genovese, a butter cookie filled with a vanilla pastry cream (we also had them filled with Nutella, but not as good). The tender, flavorful cookie, smooth sweet cream was heavenly and I could have easily made a meal of them. Lucky for me, we took home half a dozen and we ate them all in a day. Erice is a challenge for the mobility-limited with its steep, worn and slippery stone streets, but I’m proud to say that my husband hung with the best of them, only choosing to send me up the tower at Chiesa Madre for a nice view of some of the town and a bit of Trapani below. We purchased the multi-church and museum ticket for, if I recall correctly, at 6 euros, and it paid for itself and we wandered in and out of churches and a couple abandoned monasteries we otherwise would not have paid 2-3 euros each to see. The town was crowded on Sunday afternoon, but not obnoxiously so. Our poor timing led us to the closest restaurant we could find when hunger struck, the name of which I cannot remember. The meal was equally memorable, but we were hungry, and it was there.

Favignana was a blast. We took the Liberty Lines hydrofoil rather than signing up for an islands cruise/ tour which included swimming spots that didn’t interest us, and limited the time on Favignana, the only place we thought would be worth the effort to get to. The round trip was about 32 euros each. We were advised against buying two one-way tickets by the ticket window clerk, and she was right. The ferry schedule was not hourly and our trip back at 4 pm was shared with an absolutely crammed-in crowd. The town is charming, small, and very comfortable. It feels local, despite the fact that there were a lot of day-trippers there. We joined the many local citizens in a main piazza, enjoying an extended coffee break and bite to eat.

There are lots of bike rental places immediately along the port, and well into the town. I can see where if you are beach-destined, you’d definitely need one. We were there for the town sights, primarily the Tuna Museum, so we passed. The museum did not disappoint. (Nor did the thong bikini clad teens at the small beach en route there, according to my husband. They made me feel very old and very fat.) The book is accurate in its description of the museum, but we felt it underplayed the museum’s charms. I found the darkened hall with audio/visual clips of various workers at the factory fascinating. If you understand Italian, stand directly under each bell for the best acoustics. If there are a lot of people in there, it can be very hard to hear as there are probably 15 or 20 screens in operation at any one time. If you don’t understand Italian, it won’t be worth your time. In addition to the painstakingly deep and detailed review of every aspect of the now-dead industry there, the museum also included a fascinating small exhibit on the history of the Carthaginians and Romans and the Battle of the Egadi Islands. The objects are not well-labeled, though, and it took watching the videos to fully understand what I was looking at. One of the videos is subtitled and I thought worth the time. The other is not subtitled, but equally interesting. If I were to make one recommendation it would be for them to try to increase and improve the English information available. The brochure available and 99% of the videos and written explanations were only in Italian. Nevertheless, even if you don’t speak or read Italian, you’ll get a lot out of it. We just stopped for a quick bite at U Coppu, which was fine as advertised, but the real culinary destination for me was A Putia, which features typically Favignanasi products in the form of dozens of cans and jars of tuna in various forms (there still is a small, local industry here, but nothing is produced for export, even to the island of Sicily, that we could find). I scored locally preserved salted capers (not easy to find at home), a red-orange jam (impossible to find at home), and a sun-dried tomato spread spiked with anchovy (like-item substitutes are available here). I’ve yet to try the capers, but the jam and tomato spread were well-worth the expense, and the weight in my carry-on. We skipped Mozia, and its museum, in favor of a shorter trip to the salt flats of Nubia. The small Museum of Salt was fun, and our guide was enthusiastic in her description of the family, industry and history of salt production. She wasn’t a family member, but she was clearly invested in the family and the business. The advertised 20-minute tour was more like 45. I can’t remember the admission fee (I’m thinking 4 or 5 euro, with a well-worth-it extra euro to head out into the pans.) Production for the season was already completed, but on the way back to Trapani, we stopped at roadside pans still in the harvesting mode. The gift shop has grossly overpriced t shirts and the like, but the 2 euro kilo bags on fine or coarse salt were a steal. They were also the reason we had to check our roll-aboard bags for the trip home. We engaged our driver Giuseppe for this outing, as getting there by public transport is impossible; it just doesn’t exist. We probably could have rigged up taxi transfers, but again, for us, it just wasn’t worth the hassle.

I’m sorry to say that Mazara del Vallo was a disappointment. Perhaps I set my own expectations too high. I envisioned the kasbah as being similar to the ones of Tunisia and Morocco, but it was a pale comparison. We couldn’t even find a restaurant open for lunch! What was interesting, though, is the street art in that neighborhood, and throughout the small town. Tile installations and fountains were a pleasant, colorful delight. I also wanted to visit the Museum of the Dancing Satyr, which we accomplished mostly by stumbling on it. Directions from the train station were vague, and there were no maps or any information there, and the TI in town was closed, so we were left to stroll in search of the museum. It turned out fine, as the place isn’t that big, and once you get into town, there are directional signs. And, fortunately, the museum does not close mid-day, so we could spend time there without rushing in or out. While the train ride was uneventful, it was late and two other trains destined for other localities never showed up at all. Again, the bus might be a better choice if you’re on a tight schedule.

I’d been wanting to visit Segesta for years, and it was well worth the wait. However, for us, the bus to Segesta was not great. Getting information on it for starters was frustrating. There is only one company serving it from Trapani, ironically not called Segesta (there is a line that is), but rather Tarantola. They have a website now ( www.tarantolacuffaro.it ), but based on the website’s spotty performance, we chose to buy tickets onboard. The bus stop is odd. It’s a large, but abandoned building; tickets are not sold there (nor are they at the tabacchi which allegedly sold them), and while the stop is marked with one 8 ½ x 11 sign covered in plastic wrap, the bus does not necessarily stop there. It can stop anywhere along the side of the building. Had a helpful local person not clued us in, we would have missed the only bus that gave us enough time to visit and still make the last bus of the day home. Also, it’s not a big tour bus that the other companies run to local, but out-of-town destinations, but rather a 16 seat grey minivan which is not particularly well-marked. Pay attention! And one more thing, if the weather forecast even vaguely mentions rain, or there is a cloud in the sky, take your emergency rain poncho. We did not and paid the price of being caught in a thunderstorm without cover, being soaked to the bone from head to toe, and waiting in the chilly afternoon breeze for 2 ½ hours to catch the next, and last, bus back to town. At one point, I honestly wasn’t sure we were going to make it without major consequences. But we did, and courtesy of the two blow driers in the apartment, my husband’s shoes were dry in about 5 hours.

Unfortunately, Lufthansa has discontinued their Trapani-Munich route, so after a final day in Trapani, we took off for Palermo for one night, staying at Delle Vittorie Rooms and Suites. It is well-located on the extremely noisy Via Maqueda, but the sound-proof windows are great. We had a very comfortable room and a fine breakfast. The staff was friendly, but no tourist maps and an out-of-date restaurant list definitely put our stay in the not-as-great-as-it-could-have-been category. So, after 26 days on the road, we were headed home. All in all, it was a good trip. I still feel like there are places I’d like to visit, especially in the interior of the island, but we are most likely to head off in a different direction the next time we are in Europe. Random Thoughts We are both retired, and hence we have the luxury of being slow travelers. We have good foreign language skills, and I think that it affects the quality of our trip. We met very few people, mostly elderly, but surprisingly, not all, who spoke little or no English. Due to his age, my husband has mobility challenges and becomes tired after particularly strenuous days. While we still average about 5 miles a day, we move more slowly both in terms of each day and in terms of the overall trip. I realize that most readers aren’t interested in the accessibility/wheelchair issue, but I thought adding it certainly wouldn’t hurt. There has been a recent discussion on Airbnb on the forum, so I took an extra few minutes to describe ours. For very reasonable rates, from $40 to $140 per night, depending on the size, age and style of the property, city location (e.g. historic center) and the actual city it was in, we felt comfortable in our choices for the entire trip. We use a lot of cash on these trips. I’ve read the periodic threads that say a lot of people struggle to use up even a small amount of cash, but I pay the drivers in cash, and for smaller transactions like museum entries and coffee and gelato breaks, I prefer it. I also use it in small business/family stores to help cut their costs. We do use credit for accommodation and restaurant expenses, though. On this trip, all over the island, I noticed a disproportionate number of the Euronet and other high fee, non-bank affiliated ATMs. Finding an ATM at a bank took a little doing in some cities. We had six different drivers for the trip. Unlike last year, I was unable to book one company for the entire trip, and in the end, we probably saved some money by comparison shopping. It was time-consuming, though, to lay out the entire trip. We’ve been trying to start and finish this trip since early 2020, so in some ways, I think I overplanned. And, in the case of Poggioreale at least, all the effort was for naught. My best sources were the Blue Guide for background and a more academic approach to the places we visited; the Fodor’s forums (limited use, but a very different perspective), visitsicily.com and other websites like it, TripAdvisor, and the wonderful trip reports on this website.

If you’ve made it to the end, thanks. I hope at least some of my musings will be helpful to you

What a wonderful trip report! I love Sicily and yearn to go back. Thank you!

I enjoyed this very much! Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

I need a month in Sicily!

A few questions: Can you tell me more about Raffaele at Cinabro Carrettiere who you used in Ragusta? You said it was enjoyable and 10 Euros so that peaked my interest.

If you had to chose would you go with Agrigento or Selinunte? I have gone back and forth and finally decided on Agrigento but then your accounts make me wonder if we would enjoy Selinunte more.

I contacted Roberto Sapone for the same route. There are 4 of us so the fee is 400 Euros not 350. My husband said that was too much and he would rather drive. So we are going to rent a car when we leave Siracusa. We drove in May in Crete and survived goggle maps taking us to a olive orchard not the factory and two way roads that are only as wide as one car (so you have to back up!). We will have to see how Sicily compares.

Raffaele is one of the men who work at the shop. He told us that he is in training to do a little more in terms of decorating and design, but I think he does a lot of tours, too, as he was the one with whom I exchanged emails to set up our visit and he mentioned other tours/visitors during our time there. The only thing lacking on the tour is that there were no other employees there when we were. No one was actually working on a cart. It would have been very interesting to watch a craftsman at work. It's a small workshop, so maybe it's one or the other, but not both at the same time.

Since you've decided on Agrigento, I hate to say it, but Selinunte was my preference. It was less crowded and hectic than Agrigento. I don't know a lot about this subject, so I especially appreciated all the explanations and stories associated with each of the temple ruins. I felt like I wasn't just looking at huge piles of rocks. It may have been there, but I can't remember any kind of information or signs like that at Agrigento. The people at Agrigento struck me more as there to check off an item on the tour list, whereas at Selinunte, there were no large groups, no guides with little flags to follow, and a much more relaxed atmosphere. There was time and space to just look, and to sit and imagine what it was like to live there. It seemed to be, if you will, the more "serious" of the two sights. It felt like people were there because they wanted to be; not because it was an item to check off a list.

There's no doubt in my mind that drivers recommended in the RS book are making a very good living. Interesting that he would charge 400 euros for four, but 350 for 2. We weren't that much work! There's plenty of open road outside of the cities, and driving (and parking) won't be stressful. Considering the cost of a private transfer, if your husband is willing to drive, I'd say do it. I laughed at your description of driving with Google maps. We had a similar experience with a GPS in Croatia 10 years ago. I can't remember what we were looking for, but we got all the way to the end of a one-lane dirt road only to find out that what we wanted wasn't there and that there was no place to turn around. Took me half an hour to back myself out of that mess.

Thank you for your detailed report! We toured both Selinunte and Agrigento. We stayed outside of Selinunte which was a mistake. The BnB was nice but surrounding areas were quite sketchy. We stayed down near the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento at the Colleverde Park Hotel which had wonderful service, nice views. A walk around the city above it was brief as we did not feel safe and we have lived in NY and Chicago and are not easily intimidated by any city.

Thank you for such explicit information. We are in Florence now in our favorite apartment hosted by dear friends we have made. We are looking to travel to Sicily probably late October and will definitely use your info..

Your mention of vague directions for finding bus stops made me chuckle, not alogether humorously. Maybe it’s a southern Italian thing. We spent half of our first day in Naples trying to get to the Archaeological Museum. Our B&B host gave us explicit directions, except that he used the local name for a transfer stop. The street sign had the official name, so we missed it. Anyway, the bus stop wasn’t actually at the piazza, but near it. We had a similar experience when leaving for Amalfi. Our host told us to take the short tram ride to a major piazza (Piazza del Popolo?, del Plebescito?), where we could find the bus for Amalfi. Well, the piazza is enormous, probably two blocks long on each side, with many, many bus stops around it. We circumnavigated it, schlepping our luggage behind us. When we got back to our starting place, we saw a policeman, and asked him. Miraculously, he had enough English to inform us that our bus stop was actually two blocks away, down a side street. At least we had allowed enough time so that our misadventure did not result in amissed bus. All this happened in the pre-gps on your phone days. However, we have found the gps to be far from perfect, especially in Italy. Lessons learned: 1) use taxis a lot. 2) Suck it up, and enjoy all the wonderful things about a trip to Italy. 3) Laugh about it later.

Many thanks for sharing the details of your trip. Sounds amazing. I am planning to go next year, and reading about your experiences will be very useful.

Loved reading about your slow trip around the island. I've been to Sicily four or five times now and simply love it. I have not yet been to Siracusa or Ragusa, so that was very interesting to me. We liked both Agrigento and Selinute, for different reasons. We had a car and so it made going around a lot easier.

My favorite place just to hang out was Trapani. Just the liveliness of the main street, the relative safety compared to other places, and the other places nearby (yummm... maria grammatico) The salt is wonderful --- so intense and flavorful. It is place we would consider staying for a month or more, and frequently look at real estate listing as well.

I missed your TR the first time around. How easy will a trip like yours be for someone with almost no Italian language skills?

Honestly, you'd be fine with only basic Italian skills. Chances are you'd be fine with only please/thank you/hello/goodbye skills. My husband and I enjoy practicing our languages when we travel, but other than the odd person (one driver, one shopkeeper, our neighbors in Trapani), everyone spoke enough English to communicate. Actually, I suspect that these people did speak enough English to communicate, but they were shy to use it, especially since I always open conversations in Italian. Go and have a good time. It won't be a problem at all for you.

our RS drivers were exactly $350 also. I did not know to ask our Airbnb hostess about drivers so that is an excellent tip. The RS company drivers were excellent. I cant say enough good things about them. We had one take us to my husbands grandparents village. The streets could not have been wide enough to fit anything but a Prius. Somehow he managed that AND the turns. I had a different experience of Catania and I am happy to hear it is a nice place after all.

Just a note: not all Airbnb hosts know of drivers. It doesn't hurt to ask. Our hosts in Siracusa and Trapani were happy to help. They set us up with friends. I think both drivers were happy for the income.

Thankyou! Hoping to go to Sicily this April.

This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity.

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Sicily travel guide — the fullest sicily tourist guide for first-timers.

Referring to Italy, in addition to the powerful and mighty of Rome, the rich culture of Tuscany or the vibrant of Naples, surely the name Sicily or Sicilia will evoke lot of emotions to anyone. Sicily, not only has famous for the novel ‘The Godfather’, ‘specialty’ Mafia and Separatism but also owns a lot of great things that no other land in Italy can match, including the rich and diverse culture of the land with the oldest history in Italy after Rome. In terms of landscape, cultural identity and geographical location, Sicily is not inferior to any other place in Italy, but what has made this land stray from the image of a prosperous Europe that people often imagine? This Sicily blog not only shares with you Sicily travel experiences, but also provides a part of the social picture of the evil land in the pages of Mario Puzo’s books. So, what to do and how to plan a perfect budget trip to Sicily — The largest island of Italy for the first-time? Let’s check out our Sicily travel blog (Sicily blog) with the fullest Sicily travel guide (Sicily guide, Sicily tourist guide) from how to get there, best time to come, where to stay, best places to visit and top things to do to find out the answer!

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If you have read the world famous novel ‘The Godfather’ by Mario Puzo, you will surely know the legendary land of Sicily of Italy which is also the beautiful southernmost island with tradition of producing wine for more than a thousand years. Not only being the “land of Mafia”, this place also contains many interesting and strange things.

Unlike many other large cities and regions in Italy, Sicily is not dense with monumental or massive, majestic or high-rise buildings, but it has many palm trees and other rare trees and plants that evoke the feeling of being in a country of Middle East or North Africa. The streets of cities or towns in Sicily are also small, and there are many more flea markets, shops right on the streets, diverse markets from food markets selling meat, fish and vegetables, to clothing stalls, Chinese game electronics, to gas stoves and ovens.

Sicily travel guide: Overview of Sicily

Where is sicily.

Well, if you imagine Italy as a boot or a high-heeled shoe, Sicily is like a kicked ball. Indeed, this image ironically compares Sicily’s position in the heart of Italy: Backward and isolated. Despite the distance from the mainland (ie Italy) to the port of Messina of Sicily is only 6.6km, but Sicily is already considered a remote island of Italy.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea with an area of up to 25,711 km² and a population of over 5 million (2022), it is separated from mainland Italy by the Strait of Messina, is one of five autonomous regions, officially known in Italian as Regione Siciliana. The most prominent landscape of the island is Mount Etna, the most famous volcano in Europe with the most frequent and powerful eruptions.

Sicily is 3km from Calabria (in mainland Italy), 160km from the coast of Africa, and to this day, it is still impossible to confirm whether Sicily was once attached to Africa or mainland Italy. Due to its geographical location, Sicily is the most important island in Mediterranean Sea.

A brief history of Sicily

Since the appearance of the first inhabitants, the ancient people of Sicanians, there have been many peoples to occupy, successively inhabiting this hilly and rich in flora and fauna island. After the primitive civilization of the Sicanians came the civilization of the people of Sicels (the origin of the name Sicily), then the people of Elymians originated from West Asia (now Turkey), and then continued to be assimilated by Greek army. For hundreds of years, people jostle against each other to occupy this vast and majestic island, Sicily was handed over from the Greeks to the Carthaginians, to the Roman Empire, to Arabia, to Norman, to France, to Spain, to Austria… until Giuseppe Garibaldi unified Italy and regained Sicily in 1860.

Due to its prime location with hundreds of years of changing thrones, Sicily is the cultural exchange of many different cultures, the Sicilian people are famous for their multi-racial diversity and colorful culture. Coming to Sicily, you can see a blending of ancient indigenous civilizations such as Sicanians, Sicels, Elymians, to the civilizations of invaders such as Roman, Greek, Arab, Norman, Albania, France, Spain. A lot of people in Sicily today are of Albanian origin because this people have occupied and settled here since the 16th century…

The Greeks also invaded the southern Italy and Sicily, so Sicily is so heavily influenced by Greek culture and its civilization, so there are a lot of Greeks here, more Greek-style temples than in Greece itself. The language of the Sicilian people therefore also has a lot of foreign elements mixed (there are even some Albanian-influenced communities who have occupied here since the sixteenth century and to day they still speak the ancient Albanian language). Even the eye color and hair color of a large number of people in Sicily (red hair and blue eyes) are also considered traits they inherited from the Normans. In addition, there also are many people with Arab surnames. So, many Italians sometimes joke that Sicily isn’t Italian, and many Sicilian themselves also don’t identify themselves as Italian.

Sicily travel guide: Is Sicily safe?

There is no country is absolutely safe but actually in Sicily you will be surprised because the security here is better than you think. I lived for a year in Sicily and have never been pickpocketed, stolen or cheated while in Rome I was scammed as soon as I arrived at the airport. The proud Sicilian are sincere, generous and respect to foreigners. What about the mafia? I didn’t see the influence of this criminal organization on the daily life here. However, you should not be too casual when talking about this topic or discuss it with natives because it is a rather complicated topic.

Generally, fewer pickpockets than other famous tourist cities such as: Rome, Barcelona, ​​Paris… also not as many robbers as Naples, Sicily is much safer. There is also absolutely no gunfight like in the movies, probably because civilians, tourists are not the object of interest of mafia gangs. However, you should also be careful when wandering around in slums or suburbs, which may not be as safe as in downtown areas.

What about poverty and backwardness? Indeed, Sicily has poorer infrastructure than northern regions and high rates of unemployment, ghost towns and abandoned cities when young people move to the North to finding jobs that makes the cities become deserted, full of elderly people but in general people still have a comfortable life.

Sicily travel blog: When to visit?

Sicily is endowed with a mild Mediterranean climate, warm winters, cool summers, and little rain. The average temperature in winter is about 6-7 degrees Celsius, 18-20 degrees Celsius in summer.

The golden rule when traveling to countries with sea and islands is to go in sunny summer, even if it’s the peak season with higher costs. Summer in Italy is similar to Vietnam, lasting from the end of May to the end of August. The Mediterranean climate with hot and dry summers and due to its geographical location close to North Africa, summer in Sicily is hotter than other European regions. However, the European summer is very pleasant compared to the summer in the North or Central Vietnam.

You can also come to Sicily in spring with lush green trees, flowers blooming everywhere, it will be more beautiful but not as crowded as in summer, especially for ocean lovers. However, many hotels and restaurants only open in the summer when tourists flocking here.

Sicily travel guide: How to get to Sicily?

The simplest and most efficient way to get to Sicily is by plane. The island has two international airports: Palermo and Catania, connecting to many major cities in the world and the most famous airline is Alitalia – the national carrier of Italy.

There are no direct train routes from mainland cities to Sicily because there is no bridge connecting the island to the mainland. Due to the distance is too far from other regions of Italy, so taking a bus will takes a lot of time, so I do not recommend you to choose this option.

Traveling by boat also is a option to reach Sicily. There are many ferry companies such as Alicudi Palermo Ferry, Alicudi Milazzo Ferry, Civitavecchia Palermo Ferry, Civitavecchia Palermo Termini Imerese Ferry, Favignana Trapani Ferry… which are operating routes to Sicily, you can directly buy tickets at ticket counters at ferry piers or buy online in advance, refer to departture points, routes and timetables here .

Sicily guide: Getting around Sicily

Unlike other developed regions or cities in Italy, public transport in Sicily is even more backward. Usually, in order to save time and make the most comfortable, tourists often choose to travel by coach (passenger car) between tourist destinations on the island. You can refer to the website of the Etna Travel Service Company here or via Facebook , the web is not available in English, so please use Google Translate. According to my experience, you should look up the departure time on the website and then follow the address that listed on the website to buy tickets right on the spot, because online payment also is not available.

For trains you can book and pay online here . However, not every city in Sicily has a train station and the frequency of trains is not as much as that of passenger cars.

Self-driving

However, you should rent a private car if you want to freely explore the tourist attractions on the island. It is recommended to rent in advance online, especially to avoid the holidays or special occasions. The car rental price for a week ranges from €250 to €500. Large rental companies often offer better prices, should not be rented from small firms, they often offer cars with poor quality, prices are not fixed. All car rental companies have offices at the airports and in major cities in Sicily.

Sicily travel guide: What to do and where to go?

Trapani – marsala, salt flats and ancient windmills.

Since ancient times, salt has always played an extremely important role in human life. People get rich from salt, war for salt, even in Italy there are many roads named “Via Salaria” – Salt Route.

The hot winds from Africa, the long sunny summer days, the saltwater coastal lands are all the perfect conditions for the birth of immense salt fields. Here, natural sea salt is still crystallized from the evaporation of water, just as the ancient Phoenicians did 2,700 years ago. Salt was sold throughout the Mediterranean, as far away as the Nordic countries. Thanks to salt, in the mid-16th century it was one of the most important ports in Europe. Today, although there are many different substitutes, the salt here is still preferred by culinary experts because of its purity, no preservatives and the salty taste of natural sea salt.

Leaving the highway, driving along the highway from Trapani to Marsala you will encounter salt fields along both sides of the road. The scene of salt fields is adorned by scattered ancient windmills on the horizon. The first windmills were built in the Middle Ages, today most people use mechanical pumps, but sporadically, there are still 1-2 windmills that continue to lead into and drain water out of the salt fields.

Not available in Sicily tours, and if you want to go, you also have to rent a private car to get there, so not many tourists know this place. But if you have an opportunity to get here, remember to visit the Museum of Salt and the restaurant Trattoria del Sale. You can both visiting, admiring artifacts and documents regard the salt industry in Trapani, and you can also enjoy dishes using salt according to local recipes. And of course, you should also take advantage of buying a few bags of sea salt to use and give as gifts to friends.

Isola Di Vulcano – The Island of Volcanoes

The ancient Greeks named the island Thérmessa, meaning “Source of Heat”, and in Greek mythology it was known as the forge of God Hephaestus (Vulcano in Roman, the god of fire, blacksmiths, and craftsmen). The small island of only 21 square kilometers, 25 kilometers off the northern coast of Sicily, is the closest island to Sicily in the cluster of eight Aeolian Islands. From the main island of Sicily, there are many ports to catch a boat or ferry to the island, but you should go to the port of Messina, the port closest to the island cluster, from there, you can take ferries or boats to reach the island. Buying ticket is simple, just go to the port to see which boat preparing to depart, then go to its ticket counter right on the street and then get on the boat, it only takes 40 minutes to get to the island.

Currently there are 3 volcanoes on the island, of which the Gran volcano is still active. Rated as the most impressive attraction on the island, the scene of the crater is truly breathtaking. The smoldering columns of white smoke, the strong smell of sulfur. However, you should not reach too close, might will be suffocated.

Due to the volcanic terrain, an interesting place to visit is the natural hot mud bath area of ​​Fanghi. The mineral mud here contains very high sulfur content (the smell is quite concentrated), especially good for people with rheumatism and skin diseases (oily skin, acne, psoriasis).

In addition, due to the formation of lava flows, there are many volcanic black sand beaches on the island. The best way to go around the island, stopping at any beach you like is to rent a motorbike, or an ATV, the rental price for a day is not too expensive, about 15-25 Euros depending on the season.

Besides tourist services, people on Vulcano island mainly live by goat farming and hunting. So there are also great local cheeses like goat ricotta, and traditional dishes like fried ricotta, pasta with ricotta, seasoned with local specialties including herbs and spices.

The medieval fishing village of Cefalu

With narrow winding cobblestone streets, small beaches and a lovely harbor, Cefalu is one of Sicily’s most beautiful and most popular medieval fishing villages. The most impressive thing in Cefalu is the Lavatoio – a public laundry area that dates back to the 16th century in the Middle Ages. The laundry area was built where the Cefalino estuary empties into the sea. A special thing is that this river originates in the mountains next to Cefalu, flows underground, slips under the small houses in the village before emptying into the sea. Legend has it that this murmuring stream is the tears of the river goddess, who mourns her beloved husband day and night. From the main street, gracefully curving stairs lead down to the laundry area carved out of monolithic blocks with cool water designed to flow into 22 small faucets, of which 15 are designed in the shape of a dragon’s head which still well preserved to this day.

Until the 60s and 70s of the last century, Cefalu women loved to gather to do laundry here, especially in the hot summer days of the southern Mediterranean because they loved the cool water here due to underground flow through several kilometers before being exposed and flowing into the sea.

Located on the Mediterranean coast, Palermo – the capital of the island of Sicily, is famous for its fresh food and the enthusiasm, generosity, hospitality and kindness of the coastal people. Visitors can return to the past and riding around streets on unique horse-drawn carriages that will not be disappear even when the most modern vehicles appear. Most Palermo people are proud to talk about their homeland, a peaceful coastal city with bold classical European architecture.

And having come to Palermo, it is impossible to ignore its markets. All you need is to walk along the Vucciria market (Mercato della Vucciria) to experience local life. This is a place where locals and tourists come to buy fresh fruit, seafood and fresh cheeses with the enthusiastic, soulful sales style of the Mediterranean people.

Aeolian Islands

Aeonlian Islands is a must-go destination on the journey to Sicily, it is a volcanic archipelago of Sicily, Aeolian not only has pristine coastlines, volcanic black sand beaches, caves and cliffs, but also has a full range of amenities and tourist facilities such as mineral hotspring resorts, water sports, interesting relaxing fishing service.

Don’t miss the beautiful scenery in the town of Marzamemi which is one of the friendliest destinations for a summer vacation. If you want to relax, enjoy beautiful space, experience ancient Italian style, nice climate all year round and saving memories with your family, then Marzamemi is a good choice.

The town of Gangi was built on a small hill in central Sicily, about 80 kilometers to the southeast of Palermo, like a giant tortoise shell. About several years ago, very few people outside of Italy had heard of this village. Considered as one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, this 12th-century old town had a population of about 16,000 in the 1950s but today only 7,000 remain.

Sicily Valley

Located next to a mountainside outside the city of Agrigento, the valley of Sicily possesses seven Greek temples, so it is called the valley of the temples. The Temple of Concordia, built in the 5th century BC, is the best preserved in the valley and is one of the largest and best preserved Doric temples still standing. Doric columns with 7 m high, 1.3 m in diameter. Other temples include the Temple of Juno, used for wedding ceremonies, and the Temple of Heracles, the oldest temple in the area.

Town of Piazza Armerina

The people of Piazza Armerina speak a different language than in other parts of Sicily. Here, visitors have the opportunity to visit beautiful Gothic works and buildings, especially the Villa Romana del Casale, a palace built in ancient Roman times in the middle of the 4th Century AD with the extraordinary mosaics decoration.

This town located in the southeast of Sicily is known as the “town of Baroque culture”. The Baroque structures in Val di Noto were remodeled in 1693 after a terrible earthquake and were recognized by UNESCO in 2002. The best time to visit Val di Noto is spring, when there are many festivals are held.

In Greek mythology, Etna is the place where Zeus imprisoned the monster Typhon, ending the war that is considered the most terrible in the history of Greek mythology. Currently, Etna is one of the most active and powerful volcanoes in the world, each time the volcano erupts Italians often joke that it is the wrath of the monster Typhon to escape the captivity of Zeus. Etna is also considered a symbol of Sicily, if you are a person who likes challenges and adventure travel, you cannot miss the opportunity to witness firsthand this great volcano.

Taormina is an extremely famous mountain town in Sicily. From Taormina you can see ravishing pebble beaches below, the beautiful Isola Bella island as its name suggests, the old streets for walking and shopping.

You can get to Taormina by bus and if you want to go down to the pebble beaches at the foot of the mountain, you can choose the bus or cable car, in the peak seasons you can go early to get a seat or access to the private beaches of restaurants. Entrance fees will be charged per person.

In addition to beautiful beaches, Taormina is also famous for its Greek theater, this is a theater built by the Greeks in the 2nd century BC. You can also take a walk in the old town of Corso Umberto – a shopping and culinary paradise to explore every corner of Taormina.

The port city and economic center in Eastern Sicily. Although not as famous as the capital of Palermo, Catania is a city worth visiting due to its location right at the foot of Mount Etna – Europe’s largest active volcano. Due to its proximity to the volcano, the structures, buildings and houses here are built mainly of lava rock, creating a slightly sad gray color for the whole city.

Tourist activities of the city are concentrated along the Via Etnea avenue, where you can visit the Cathedral and Badia of Sant’Agata, the Central Square, the University of Catania – one of the oldest universities in the world, shopping street, fruit market, fish market and Ursino fortress. Just walk along the avenue and turn sideways and turn along the directions of the map. Catania is quite small, so it only takes one afternoon to visit its center. From afar, do not forget to watch the Etna volcano, which is still growling day and night to release smoke into the sky.

This is a small city on the Ionian coast, not as famous as Taormina but as beautiful as a gentle wave of the sea. Acireale has a very small and lovely Central square, not to mention the small and narrow alleys that go forever without seeing an end. Far away is the pale blue sea. We kept walking along small alleys to find that color of blue sea, but we forgot about our tired feet. In the past, Acireale used to be quite crowded with tourists, but due to the economic downturn, today the city is gradually deserted. I listened to uncle Grazia’s story and I saw that faint blue color become sadder.

The city is named for both its culture and architecture, so the beauty of Noto is truly overwhelming. The Baroque architectural style is famous for its sharp shapes, high contrast of colors and delicate curves of sculpture. In Noto, those elements are pushed to an astonishing level of sophistication and exquisition. I have visited many Baroque buildings in Vatican, Naples but Noto really is the most elegant. The cathedral here is not grandiose and the streets here are also small, but it is the honey yellow color of the stone that makes Noto really unique. We originally planned to go to Siracusa, the city where the famous Malena movie was set, but uncle Santi said Noto was equally beautiful without being touristized. Indeed, when traveling far, you have to ask the locals to know the real good places.

Ragusa Ibla

The last city before parting with Sicily and also the city with the most memories for me. Since I lived for 8 months in Ragusa Ibla, this is really my second home. Ragusa is also close to the southernmost point of the island, traveling so far away to meet my Italian friends when I was a student. I was really surrounded by the kind people of Sicily and taught me many things. Ragusa Ibla rose to prominence a few years back as the setting of an Italian TV series. From an average tourist city, it has become a trending destination for Italians. The city is located on a mountain, so just go from the lowest point to the highest peak to enjoy the beauty of the romantic mountain town.

Diving in Lampedusa

Lampedusa is voted by many travel sites as the most beautiful coast in Europe with a long coastline, many beautiful beaches with clear and blue sea water. This is also a very suitable spot for those who love diving and watching coral. In addition, you can also witness turtles come ashore to lay eggs in the evenings of early September, this must be an extremely interesting experience.

Whisper your secrets at the Ear of Dionysius cave

Even if you talk in a whisper in the Ear of Dionysius cave, be careful because any of your secrets can be exposed whether those around you are near or far away.

The Ear of Dionysius man-made rock cave located in the city of Syracuse (southern Sicily), has been designed so that even the slightest whisper is clearly amplified. Legend has it that this cave was created by Dionysius I – the famous abuser of Syracuse to eavesdrop on the whispers of prisoners locked inside.

Rafting and trekking in Gole Alcantara

Gole Alcantara is a botanical and geological park 40 minutes by car from the town of Taormina, Sicily. This park is an interesting destination for locals and tourists instead of crowded beaches, everyone enjoys spectacular gorges, towering cliffs with strange structures, even water can freeze even in summer time. In addition to activities such as rafting, group boating, water parks, etc. Adventurers can also try challenging adventure sports such as mountain climbing, canyoning, etc.

Tasting Sicilian fine wine

This beautiful island with a typical Mediterranean climate, fertile soil is very suitable for growing grapes, and this is the region with the oldest winemaking tradition in Italy with famous wines such as DOCG, DOC, white wine Moscato di Noto and other famous red wines.

Sicily travel guide: What to eat?

Sicily has many dishes using local products such as cheese, olive oil, tomatoes, especially the seafood here is very fresh and quite cheap. If you have time, you should visit the local markets as well as tasting specialties here with full of fresh vegetables and local produce such as Vucciria Market in Palermo or La Pescheria fish market in Catania.

Due to influenced by Arab cuisine, Sicily is flooding with pastries. First, you must try Arancina (Arancini), rice balls that are stuffed with, cheese and tomato sauce then coated with bread crumbs and deep fried. Next is Cannolo (Cannoli), an extremely seductive cream-filled pastry consisting fried pastry dough, stuffed with a sweet, creamy filling usually containing ricotta. It has crispy crust with sweet ricotta cream, soft at every bite. Don’t forget to try the almond milk from the province of Agrigento as well. In Catania, don’t forget to try grilled horse meat.

Smorgasbord is the popular type of serving here with many delightful mixing dishes which are influenced by Arabic, Greek, French, Spanish and North African with an Italian twist, giving it a speacial flavor and style that you should try!

Sarde a beccafico – The famous Sicilian stuffed sardines here.

The restaurant we dined in in Catania was Trattoria Da Zia Tanina (Address: Via Plebiscito, 428, 95122 Catania CT, Italy/Hours: 12–3:30PM, 7PM–12AM; Monday: 7PM–12AM) , which specializes in horse meat dishes. There is another restaurant specializing in Sicilian cuisine called Giaca Ristorante Pizzeria (Address: Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 245, 95029 Viagrande CT, Italy/Hours: 6PM–1AM; Wednesday:Closed) , in the town of Viagrande near Catania. Here we tried pizza and pasta for dinner. If you spend the night in Ragusa Ibla, you can dine at U Saracinu and Da Nito Titos , two popular restaurants in the region.

Sicily travel blog: What to buy?

Definitely the world famous Marsala red wine. In addition, Caltagirone ceramics is also the pride of this dangerous land.

Sicily travel guide: How should I combine my Sicily travel itinerary?

Normally, tourists after finish their journeys to exploring famous destinations in the North of Italy such as Rome, Venice, Florence and then they will going to the South or making another trip to return Italy for the second time and want to explore more deeply the beauty of the boot-shaped country.

Because the island of Sicily is quite large and possesses so many tourists attractions as introduced above, so it will take at least a week or two week to explore all famous places here. For those of you who just want to explore the most famous places, there are two itinerary you can refer to as follows:

Explore the western part of the island:

• Day 1: Arrive in Palermo – Visit the capital city of Palermo
• Day 2: Traveling to Cefalù, a beautiful seaside city near Palermo
• Day 3: Traveling to Erice, a lovely little city and then return to Palermo, ending the trip.

Explore the eastern part of the Island

• Day 1: Arrive in Catania – Visit the port city of Catania
• Day 2: Traveling to Taormina – the most beautiful tourist city in Sicily – Traveling to Acireale – a lovely small city and back to Catania.
• Day 3: Traveling to Noto – A city that representing a school of architecture – Traveling to Ragusa Ibla, the emerging tourist city in Siclia – Return to Catania.

The East and West of Sicily has significant differences in landscape, culture and architecture, so choosing only one of the two is definitely not enough to fully understand this beautiful island. However, due to limited time, I chose the Eastern itinerary, also known as the Val di Noto journey to explore Sicily.

Sicily travel guide: Where to stay?

Check out top ratings and best accommodation, hotels, apartments on Agoda , Booking or Airbnb.

Some best day tours, trips, activities and transfer services, tickets in, from and to Sicily you can refer to

• Catania: Mount Etna Day Trip with Tasting and Cave Trip
• Etna: Summit Craters Trekking
• Lipari and Vulcano: Day Trip from Milazzo
• Mount Etna Summit and Crater Trek
• From Tropea: Day Tour to the Aeolian Islands
• Palermo 3-Hour Street Food and History Walking Tour
• Catania: Mount Etna Sunset Jeep Tour
• Syracuse and Noto Day Tour from Taormina

Are you looking for more top things to do in Sicily: Tours, activities, attractions and other things? Let’s check it out here . And Italy travel guide here .

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• Where to go? Everywhere Acireale Agrigento Aidone Alcara Li Fusi Avola Bagheria Borgo Parrini Bronte Buccheri Burgio Butera Caccamo Calascibetta Calatafimi Segesta Caltagirone Caltanissetta Capo d’Orlando Castelbuono Castellammare del Golfo Castelmola Castelvetrano Castiglione di Sicilia Castroreale Catania Cefalù Cinisi Egadi Enna Eolie Erice Etna Favara Ferla Gangi Gela Geraci Siculo Giardini Naxos Gibellina Grammichele Gratteri Ispica Lampedusa & Linosa Licata Marsala Marzamemi Mazara del Vallo Messina Milazzo Militello in Val di Catania Modica Mondello Monreale Montalbano Elicona Monterosso Almo Naro Nicosia Noto Novara di Sicilia Paceco Pachino Palazzolo Acreide Palermo Pantelleria Parco Archeologico di Selinunte Patti Petralia Soprana Piana degli Albanesi Piazza Armerina Porto Empedocle Ragusa Randazzo Realmonte Salemi Sambuca di Sicilia San Cono San Marco d’Alunzio San Vito lo Capo Santo Stefano Quisquina Savoca Sciacca Scicli Siracusa Sperlinga Sutera Taormina Terme Vigliatore Termini Imerese Terrasini Trapani Troina Tusa Ustica Zafferana Etnea
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STATES-GENERAL OF CINEMA IN SICILY

The “States General of Cinema” will take place from 12 to 14 April 2024 at the Maniace Castle in Syracuse, on the island of Ortigia.

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Open Paths - Magna Via Francigena

An unexpected and probably unknown Sicily is the one that will be discovered on 13 April, travelling along a stretch [...]

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The Sicilian hinterland, the one less travelled by tourists, is a treasure trove of stories that can be discovered with [...]

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Three days of sun, sea, sport, fun, music and relaxation. In Mondello, at the Ombelico del Mondo, from 3 to [...]

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EXPERIENCES TO BE LIVED

How many times have you yearned to enjoy a fully relaxing holiday, to contemplate a beautiful landscape while breathing in clean air and sipping a good glass of Etna DOC?

To stroll through a piazza with open-air bars and get lost in a maze of narrow streets, with your nose in the air, wandering between flowery windowsills and bell towers, noble palaces and rounded balconies, peering into courtyards?

Dreams and desires can come true: it’s time to visit Sicily’s beautiful villages.

These small towns by the sea, surrounded by greenery, nestled in the hinterland or perched on the mountains will offer you what you are looking for, with small curiosities and new discoveries, such as houses carved out of the rock that were inhabited until the last century, or the most famous film set of all time.

In each of the nine Sicilian provinces, you will find the right village for you and, nearby, many other places that may be less renowned but will remain forever in your heart.

These people-friendly places and holidays can be experienced in company and in safety, where the watchword is “unspoiled”, just like your chosen village.

Unmissable flavors

The flavours, shapes, scents and colours of Sicilian food have become symbols of overwhelming pleasure all over the world.

The outstanding desserts include cannolo   and cassata , which bring out the freshness and authenticity of local ricotta. Granita , which does not include ice here, reveals itself in all its creaminess. It can be difficult to choose between the many flavours and it is so delicious it can even give the best homemade ice cream a run for its money. Never alone: it should be accompanied by an aromatic hot brioche , and strictly with a “tuppo” (nobble).

Almonds , another of the island’s points of pride, are used to make the paste that is often chosen as a sweet souvenir by those visiting a distant friend. It is also the basis for a thirst-quenching and sumptuous milk and the choreographic creations of martorana fruit , which add life to the windows of the pastry shops and amuse tourists and passers-by.

In Sicily there are many delicacies rooted in tradition and faith , which become beloved symbols before they being consumed.

Bridging sweet and savoury, the juiciest red oranges  come from the countryside most beloved by the sun, while the most famous pistachios , those from Bronte, now dominate the culinary scene thanks to their gastronomic flexibility, which ranges from their use as sweet cream in desserts to the intense pestos that bring together ancient grains [link to Sicilian Ancient Grains] in the form of inimitable first courses.

A treasure trove of flavours: from Bronte’s green gold to the finest red gold , Saffron , which seduces the palate and inspires you to dream. And digging in the undergrowth, precious jewels and nuggets emerge: mushrooms and truffles .

An icon of Sicilianness, arancin*  has a name that divides people but its taste brings everyone together: it is a rice-based wonder, an essential fried delicacy and the pinnacle of Sicilian street food .

Sicily is the cradle of the Mediterranean diet , which has always been the healthiest and most varied approach to food. It also brings out the best of fish and vegetables through caponata and parmigiana , as well as pickles and infinite speciality dishes, in which the Pachino tomato reigns supreme .

In Sicily, the dinner table becomes a “stage” for exhilarating flavours: one case in point is pasta alla Norma , made with tomato sauce and fried aubergines, and so named because it is considered sublime like the work of the same name by the “Swan”, the composer Vincenzo Bellini.

Meat from historic farms, such as the Nebrodi black pig, rounds off rich and surprisingly impeccable menus.

The price of Sicilian wines is rising rapidly, as the product becomes increasingly sincere, intoxicating and versatile. It serves as an invitation to savour this island in small sips, with a glass in your hand and lightness in your heart.

Walking along the nostalgic paths of taste  you will find that even dipping bread in oil  proves why you will never have enough of Sicily.

Visiting the local markets will be the best way to deeply discover the tasty, spicy and most authentic flavours of Sicilian street food. Sicilian street food is among the most celebrated, and its main symbol is the arancin * of contention, which is loved and appreciated all over the world.

Sicily is the cradle of the Mediterranean diet and will surprise you witha thousand combinations of poor ingredients that enrich vegetarian menus.

And if you are wondering whether Sicily is the right destination for you, you will find the answer in a glass of local wine .

Discover all the flavours of your happy island.

Traveling you learn

In Sicily, you can visit the majestic volcano Etna , the Valley of the Temples , the Greek Theatre of Taormina and the one of Syracuse . You can learn more about Quasimodo, Verga, Il Gattopardo and the Rape of Persephone . Close your geography, science and art history books. Forget everything you learned at school and get ready to live a new experience.

You can follow the verses and passages of the greatest writers in world literature, from Sciascia to Camilleri, from Tomasi di Lampedusa to Pirandello . Travel along the literary routes that will lead you to discover an unusual side of Sicily.

Discover the roots of the fascinating myths and legends . These stories take inspiration from an extraordinary nature whose shapes and colours influenced the course of history itself. All tales reveal one truth: Sicily has always been a place loved by the Gods .

Travelling through Sicily, you can learn what rare botanical wonders live around the island. You can visit corners of paradise such as the Bioparco di Sicilia , or you can choose to follow the footsteps of Charles V around Sicily’s most beautiful cities . Spend some time watching hundreds of colourful kites soar through the sky, then taste and discover the history of real Aztec chocolate .

Travelling is the best way to learn something new and unique about Sicily.

Tourism Commitment

There are stories of men , perspectives, voices and hands that come together and, with commitment, give life to new hopes. They are the symbols of a Sicily that rises from its ashes.

Discover the Sicily that doesn’t give up.

The part of Sicily that does not want to be forgotten creates memorials. Palermo Ecomuseum promotes projects related to shared social responsibility, participatory care of the territory and sustainable tourism. The local community plans cultural, touristic and educational initiatives.

A terrible earthquake destroyed the town of Gibellina . Today its existence echoes through the work of its rebirth: Burri’s Cretto . There is a part of Sicily that shouldn’t be forgotten and abandoned. In Favara , from the greyness of a neighbourhood destined to decay, Florinda and Antonio created the Farm Cultural Park . Today it is one of the world’s most vibrant cultural centres. With Fiumara d’Arte, Antonio Presti has proclaimed the salvific power of beauty, creating one of the largest and most evocative land art parks in Europe. The inhabitants of the small and enchanting Borgo Parrini transformed the town into one of the most evocative places on the island, a virtuous example of urban regeneration.

There is another part of Sicily that does not surrender to fate. It pursues its dreams and reaches for the stars. One example is the shepherd poet Lorenzo Reina , who shapes the Andromeda Theatre in Santo Stefano Quisquina with his bare hands.

We cannot mention the part of Sicily that does not surrender to the Mafia . With infinite gratitude for the men who gave their lives to protect their land, it keeps their memory alive and educates the new generations to fight with messages of peace.

Discover the beautiful stories that Sicily has to tell. Prepare yourself for an exciting journey that will enrich your soul: this is what committed tourism is all about.

Sicily is the perfect and unique destination for those who want to spend a holiday surrounded by art, history and culture.

Let’s discover the cities and small towns of Sicily. Noto is the capital of Sicilian Baroque. In Caltagirone , we will be surprised by the blaze of colours of its ceramics. Syracuse is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a walk through its streets will take you back in time. In Modica , the Duomo di San Giorgio’s great beauty (the Baroque icon in Sicily) will leave you speechless. In Marsala , you can admire the most beautiful sunset in the world, which makes the atmosphere of the Stagnone surreal. We then arrive in Piana degli Albanesi , a tiny Albania in the heart of Sicily, ready to welcome you with its lake teeming with life.

You will get to know such a wide and varied territory that you may wonder whether you are still in the same Region. Sicily seems to be the gateway to another dimension. Heaven and hell make peace in the Etnean landscape. Gods and nymphs weave love stories, unbridled passions and jealousies through forests, rivers and springs. But don’t forget to visit the smaller islands.

In Lipari , you can taste the worldwide famous Malvasia. Panarea is the most exclusive and popular destination. You can explore the Island of Alicudi on the back of a donkey. Don’t miss visiting the characteristic Island of Vulcano , renowned for its mud baths. Stromboli is pyrotechnical, while, in Salina , you can see the home of the poet Neruda, set of Massimo Troisi’s unforgettable movie “ Il Postino ”.

Then there are the Egadi Islands , Pantelleria , Ustica , Linosa and Lampedusa . They are all surrounded by a wonderful sea, and each Island has its palette of reflections, from deep blue to the turquoise sky. You will be completely captivated by the colours and atmosphere of these places.

There is too much to see, and it is hard to choose where to start. Do not waste time then: get ready to go. Sicily is waiting for you!

Spirituality

There is increasing demand for holidays that take us away from crowded places and daily stress, where the body and mind can find rest and meditation.

Excursions lead us to places where nature and silence reign, with monasteries, hermitages and shrines where it is possible to find religious devotion by retracing the paths of Saints and beatified people, as well as a secular moment of serenity.

The Sacred Paths are routes that have been travelled by pilgrims since ancient times, and have now become itineraries with great attraction for tourists. Some are a few dozen kilometres long, others hundreds. Discover the itineraries along the ancient roads of the Via Francigena or along the most beaten religious paths, and get ready to walk through the most enchanting places in Sicily.

Sicily is ready to offer an interesting network of religious routes that allow you to discover bright gems that are still little known, alone or with the help of local nature associations.

Spa and Wellness

Sicily offers a wide range of natural treatments to regenerate the body and mind.

If relaxation, sensory well-being and immersive pleasure are your top travel priorities, when you visit Sicily, you will discover that it is an amazing open-air spa .

It is not a matter of destination or length of your holiday: you will find out that the simplest and most natural things have extraordinary power over your health.

Breathe deeply and find your balance using the wisdom of the centuries-old forests and the energy of the frozen waterfalls . Surround yourself with sunshine and beauty. Relax on the salt crust in the unique setting of the Stagnone . Explore and rest in the natural caves , places of the Gods in the minor islands .

To treat yourself to some relaxation, spend a day in Vulcano’s mud baths . They are a true elixir of life. The thermal waters scattered throughout Sicily supply some of the best facilities in Italy .

Let your wellness journey begin. You deserve the best: you deserve Sicily.

Sea in Sicily

A quick look at the beaches, lidos and coves on the wonderful Sicily sea, with surprising transparency and richness of colours.

We’ll start from the coast on the south of this incredible island, going from Capo Passero in Syracuse to Capo Granitola in Trapani , which proudly reveals its golden sand with an exotic flair.

Marina di Ragusa, Pozzallo, Punta Secca in the territory of Ragusa , the Torre Salsa Reserve near Sciacca, the island of Lampedusa and the Scala dei Turchi in Agrigento have very long beaches that are usually not crowded, and which blend the “off-grid” harmony and relaxation we all seek.

This sandy coast extends to Mazara del Vallo and Marsala and continues with the Via del Sale, the Stagnone Reserve and Mozia in Trapani . Here we find out how salt is produced in the museums dedicated to it. Riserva dello Zingaro and the white, fine sandy beach of San Vito lo Capoe need no introduction and open up to the Tyrrhenian coast, characterised by a succession of beaches and cliffs.

The island of Ustica , Cefalù and Mondello in the Palermo area, the Aeolian Islands , Capo d’Orlando and Tindari in the province of Messina and the Egadi Islands in the Trapani region all overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, where the blue of the sea is intense and snorkelling is very enjoyable.

The eastern coast starts after Messina with the lava rocks and pebble beaches of Taormina and Giardini Naxos, the Acireale Timpa Nature Reserve and the cliffs of Aci Trezza. The sand then returns in the Gulf of Catania , Syracuse , the Vendicari Reserve , going up to Marzamemi and the Isola delle Correnti, the precise point where the Ionian Sea and the Mediterranean Sea meet.

Also discover the child-friendly beaches and those that have been awarded the blue flag in 2023 !

The climate and landscapes allow you to pursue many outdoor sports activities in Sicily, combining wellness and fun: you will be spoilt for choice.

If you love the sea, you can dive and snorkel, experiencing the thrill of contact with the most awe-inspiring fauna and flora and discovering the “Divers’ paradise” on the bottom of Ustica, in the heart of Italy’s first marine reserve. You will behold images and colour combinations that you thought were pure science fiction with your own eyes.

On the surface, however, the sea works together with the wind to playfully push you towards kitesurfing: try it in the beautiful setting of Stagnone in Marsala!

The Sicilian natural scenery offers an original and fully comprehensive solutions for any level of fatigue, for all ages and for previous background of physical activity, from those who want to get fit to those who want to push their limits. Choose between a walk with your children   and the extremes of climbing and ski mountaineering. There are challenges with a very wide range of difficulty levels, from golf, which you can play in both the west and east of Sicily, to a highly evocative bike trip, from a day spent feeling truly free on a sailing boat to a horseback ride on Etna or crossing the Argimusco.

The hinterland of Sicily is the heart of the island, it is a little-known area. Here time flows naturally, and the contact with the locals is wonderful. It is a land rich in cultural expressions, millenary traditions, archaeological, architectural and naturalistic treasures. Many places make you want to stay forever.

Let’s discover the slopes of Mount Etna or the Simeto Nature Reserve : this area is rich in lava caves, waterfalls, rapids and small lakes. The Piana degli Albanesi Lake , on the other hand, is an area teeming with life. From the Bosco Della Ficuzza , we find ourselves in the heart of the Parco delle Madonie , dotted with small towns where time flows slowly and quietly.

Enna is the highest town in Italy, and from here you can enjoy a panoramic view over the whole island. Caltanissetta has a historical centre full of Renaissance and Baroque monuments.

Sutera is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. The Teatro di Andromeda in Santo Stefano Quisquina is a magical place surrounded by the pastoral landscape of the Monti Sicani .

Despite being in the centre of Sicily, far from the coast, you can enjoy the incredible and unique view of the Aeolian Islands . You will feel like you have just completed a journey into the most unusual and authentic Sicily.

Families and Children

Sicily is the perfect place to spend a carefree and fun holiday with your family and children.

Here you can travel and walk with children in total comfort and safety , discovering beautiful and unexpected natural settings . You can travel on foot, by bicycle or on the back of friendly donkeys . There are many ways to discover a land rich in hidden treasures, observing fauna and flora of rare beauty.

We recommend the best beaches to enjoy the wonderful Sicilian sea and spend your days among sandcastles, velvet seabeds and curious little fish. If you are lucky enough, you may even see a specimen of Caretta Caretta turtle !

In the Valley of the Temples , children can become budding archaeologists. They will be provided with the right equipment and guided by experts in discovering ancient remains. The Ludum is the first science museum in Sicily where you can learn what laws regulate the Universe.

You can discover the rare botanical wonders hidden around the island together with your family. You can visit corners of paradise such as the Bioparco di Sicilia . Or you can test your courage in the Adventure Parks , suspended in the air amidst the greenery.

Another unforgettable experience is driving along the writers’ road . Follow in the footsteps of Charles V on a historical route. Have fun with the children by flying colourful kites and tasting Aztec chocolate . Be inspired and choose the experience that perfectly suits you and your family.

Art and Culture

Some treasures do not need to be touched to perceive their rarity. However, in this triangular and evocative region, you will constantly come across the signs left by history, the passage of man and his creativity.

Get ready to discover how Sicily can amaze you. Sicily will surprise you when you least expect it. As you stroll along the streets, you will come across the works of contemporary street art : it is intense, immediate and universal. Looking out, over the infinity of the Sicilian hinterland, from the Andromeda Theatre, you will see a mystical and ancestral place. You will feel like floating in sidereal space. You have the chance to visit artisan’s workshops , guardians of traditions handed down from father to son.

Some customs are very ancient, such as the working of obsidian or the unique and precious Mediterranean coral . These traditions keep alive arts and knowledge of inestimable value, they are World Heritage Site. This heritage also includes the Sicilian puppets , protagonists of the Opera dei Pupi . Or the art of dry stone walls that embellish landscapes with their ancient beauty.

And what about archaeological sites ? Of Sicily’s 7 UNESCO sites , some are among the most beautiful archaeological sites of all time. Examples, Pantalica , the Valley of the Temples  and the magnificent Theatre of Taormina . They all bear witness to a glorious past in bright colours just waiting to be discovered. In Sicily, you will find countless places of culture , beautiful theatres and museums, artistic routes and endless opportunities to breathe in art en plein air. You will cherish this journey in the depths of your heart, along with your most precious memories.

DISCOVER THE  AREA

Things not to be missed

Grammichele

Vulcano aeolian islands, caltagirone.

SICILY, UNIQUE IN THE WORLD

to the discovery of an immense and always surprising heritage

EXPERIENCES AND  ITINERARIES

Travel tips and advice

The Yellow Gold Route

Vegetarian food tour in sicily, palermo, quick tour of the historic centre, not only sea: sicily lakes, scopello, san vito lo capo, marsala and surroundings, the writers road along the ss 640, not only sea: raccuja-floresta-montalbano elicona, underwater archaeology routes.

UNESCO HERITAGE IN SICILY

From the seven wonders of the ancient world to the seven diamonds

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Can anyone give me any idea of how private drivers charge please. I've looked up SicilyLife but don't see prices.

Am happy for any suggestions on an easier way of getting around Sicily please and in particular how best to get to Taormina from Cefalu .

14 replies to this topic

Hopefully DE Vagabonda will reply with her excellent guidance but in the meantime, why not give us your itinerary...you may find that taking the bus or a train will be simple and easy between certain destinations. Where are your airports (arriving/departing)? How long is the trip?

There is a train between Palermo and Cefalu - are you not interested in taking trains at all?

I used SicilyLife for one of my transfers - they were responsive and on time.

Works that way pretty much everywhere in Italy when using an NCC - If someone doesn't provide more suggestions you can just google "NCC [name of city]" - These will be licensed.

They are no inexpensive overall and you need to keep in mind that sometimes the price may seem high to you but it is a for a round trip the drivers, even as you are just going one way.

There are different routes, but generally it is about 200 km.

The posters here can assist with more train information if you want to explore that further.

Hi The Rafsta,

The Intercity service is much faster than the Regionale service.

Or you might take the train from Cefalù to Messina, and then take Interbus directly to Taormina’s bus terminal in town.

https://www.trenitalia.com/en.html

https://www.interbus.it/

Expect to pay € 280 for this transfer.

Perhaps contact Roberto Bruscemi, a local driver based in Cefalù.

https://www.robertourcefalu.com/transfer/

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g194726-d21198825-Reviews-Roberto_Bruscemi_Transfer-Cefalu_Province_of_Palermo_Sicily.html

I can recommend two drivers that we liked very much (they were all good but a couple were arranged by our hotel and I did not take their names:

DARIO CAFFISO is fabulous. he lives in Ragusa but will drive all over the island and to Calabria and Matera.

We hired him. for several different days, for transfers and for at least one full day when we visited an olive oil estate and the coast near Marzamemi, and a quick stop in Noto . He is just wonderful and has a large van.

Partner was slightly disabled back then and he was very comfortable.

Highest recommendation:

DARIO CAFISO. [email protected]

You need to write to him, and to anyone you are considering, to ask about pricing. I did a lot of research on prices and both Dario and ROBERTO ALABISO came up as very fair.

Here is my review of Dario on this site:

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g194872-d19588815-r892658439-Tour_barocco-Ragusa_Province_of_Ragusa_Sicily.html

We also liked very much Roberto ALABISO, who speaks perfect English and provided excellent conversation and insights. He lives inn Licata but also will cover the island.

https://www.siciliancc.it

I would try to arrange with these drivers as far out as you are able.....I've already hired Dario for a few days our return in September.

Glad you were pleased with Roberto's recommendation anonymous05.

You might also contact New Travel Services and Sicily Life The Rafsta.

Thankyou. I don't know how we'll do it, it all seems like so much mucking about. We are not young and I'm already tired just thinking about it.

Thanks for your great advice.

Thanks again Vagabonda. I will definitely contact them.

Thankyou so much. I've noted all your advice.

Prego The Rafsta,

It seems as if you might prefer a transfer.

https://www.newtravelservices.net/en/1-181-content/services/taxi-from-catania-airport-to-milazzo?s=0&c=1

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