09 dodge journey p0016

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P0016 – Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A -correlation

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Table of Contents

What does code p0016 mean, where is the p0016 sensor located, what are the common causes of code p0016 , how expensive is it to fix code p0016 , what are the symptoms of code p0016 , what are common solutions to code p0016 , how serious is code p0016 , how safe is it to still drive the car with code p0016 , how difficult is it to repair code p0016 , what are the common mistakes when repairing code p0016 , how do you troubleshoot code p0016 , codes related to p0016.

• Get Help with P0016

The camshaft position sensor (CMP) is used to determine the position of the camshaft(s). It relays this information to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM then uses this information to control the fuel injectors, and on some applications, for ignition timing. The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) relays crankshaft position and engine RPM to the PCM, or ignition module. This information is used but the PCM to control ignition timing, and in some applications, it is also used to control fuel injection.

The two common CMP and CKP designs are Hall Effect and permanent magnet.

• Permanent magnet: creates an AC voltage signal that is proportional to engine speed.

A permanent magnet crankshaft sensor

(Courtesy: CP Fitters)

• Hall Effect: uses a reference voltage from the PCM to produce a DC voltage signal.

A Hall Effect crankshaft sensor

(Courtesy: nwmobilemechanicdotcom)

Inside the engine, the crankshaft and camshaft are held together by a timing belt or timing chain, which keeps them synchronized. The CKP and CMP sensors work together to keep the PCM informed about engine timing. Should the timing be off, the PCM will set a code P0016. This code stands for Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A).

On most applications, the camshaft position sensor(s) are located in or on the valve cover to place the sensor(s) in close proximity with a reluctor ring or protrusion on the camshaft(s) that interrupt(s) the sensors’ magnetic field to produce a signal. Crankshaft position sensors can be located on the crankshaft pulley (aka harmonic balancer), the flywheel/flex plate, or on the fuel pump on some diesel applications.

• A faulty cam or crank sensor
• The cam or crank circuit is open or shorted
• The timing belt/chain is out of time
• The cam or crank tone ring is slipped/broken
• A problem in the VVT system
• The PCM is faulty

Due to the high number of possible causes of code P0016, as well as the wide range of current prices of replacement parts for every possible part that can fail and set this code as a result, it is not possible to provide a repair cost estimate for this code that is even reasonably accurate for any part of the USA. However, this resource offers a cost estimator that lists both parts and labor costs for all popular makes and models in all areas of the US market.

Code P0016 may be accompanied  by several different symptoms. These including: an engine that runs poorly, an engine that cranks but will not start and an illuminated check engine light.

The most common solution to this code is the replacement/repair of wiring, followed by replacement of crankshaft/camshaft position sensors if the engine timing is known to be good. Less common solutions include replacement of reluctor rings, or VVT/VCT oil control solenoids. Note that PCM failures are rare.

Code P0016 should be considered serious, since the vehicle can be completely immobilized if the correlation between the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors fails completely. Moreover, depending on the application and the nature of the problem, some types of engines (interference type engines with timing belts) can suffer serious, if not always fatal damage should the timing belt break or slip.

Ideally, a vehicle with this code should not be driven until the fault is found and repaired, and especially not in traffic, since the engine can stall at any time.

In most cases, repairing this code should not present the average non-professional mechanic with undue difficulties, since the diagnostic procedure mainly involves testing circuits to verify that the resistance, continuity, ground integrity and (where applicable), reference voltages comply with values specified by the manufacturer.

However, in some cases, such as where the fault persists but the sensors’ control circuits check out, it may be necessary to test the operation of individual sensors with an oscilloscope. Note however that such tests can only be performed if the relevant reference data in the form of a wave form library is available. If an oscilloscope and suitable reference data is not available, the better option is to refer the vehicle for professional diagnosis and repair.

In many cases, sensors are condemned and replaced out of hand, when it is far more common for damaged, burnt, disconnected, or corroded wiring and/or connectors to be the real problem. Also note that poor workmanship during a timing belt or timing chain replacement can cause this code if timing marks on either or both the crankshaft and/or camshaft(s) are not properly aligned.

Timing of both the crankshaft and camshaft(s) should therefore always be verified before any components are replaced, and especially on applications that are fitted with variable valve or camshaft timing, since low oil levels, insufficient oil pressure, or failed VVT/VCT solenoids can also cause this code, or contribute to its setting.

• Perform a visual inspection of the sensors and connections.

Many problems can easily be found in the harness and connectors. So, begin your diagnosis by visually inspecting the sensors and their connections.

• Test the sensor output

Testing the sensor varies slightly, depending on which type of sensor your vehicle uses.

• Permanent magnet sensor: A permanent magnet sensor can be tested using an ohmmeter (DVOM). Remove the sensor connector and attach the meter to the sensor terminals. Consult the manufactures repair information for the resistance specifications. Of course, a meter reading of OL measure there is an open in the sensor and it should be replaced. Next, crank the engine and watch the ohmmeter – the reading should fluctuate. You can also do this with your meter set to read AC voltage. If there is no change in the reading, the sensor is bad and should be replaced.

Testing a permanent magnet sensor

(Courtesy: autozone.com)

• Hall Effect sensor: Using the repair information for your vehicle, determine which pin on the sensor connector is the signal return wire. Using your DVOM on the DC voltage setting, back probe the sensor wire. Attach the black multimeter cable to battery ground. Cranking the engine, you should see the voltage reading on the meter fluctuate.

Testing a Hall Effect Sensor

(Courtesy: autorepairhelp.us)

Note that a damaged or improperly aligned tone ring will also prevent proper sensor operation. When in doubt, remove the cam gear and the crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings.

• Test the sensors circuits

If the cam and cranks sensor check out OK, but you still have P0016 code illuminated, you’ll need to check the sensor circuit.

• Permanent magnet sensor: A permanent magnet sensor produces its own voltage, so it will only have two wires going to it – ground and return signal. Start by consulting the wiring diagram for your vehicle to determine which pin on the connector is signal and which is ground. All Data DIY is probably the easiest place to source your vehicle’s wiring diagram.   Next, connect the red multimeter lead to the battery positive terminal and the black lead to the ground pin. You should see a reading of about 12 volts indicating a good ground. If not, you’ll need to consult the ground side of the wiring diagram to find where the circuit fault lies. Next, check that there is continuity to the PCM. You can do this by touching one meter lead to the return signal pin on the sensor connector and the other to signal pin on the PCM. Set your meter to the ohms setting – you should see a value appear on the screen. If instead, your meter reads OL, you have an open circuit and will need to trace the factory wiring diagram.
• Hall Effect Sensor: A Hall Effect Sensor has three wires: signal, reference and ground. Start by consulting the wiring diagram (All Data DIY) for your vehicle to determine which pin on the connector is which. Next, connect the red multimeter lead to the battery positive terminal and the black lead to the ground pin. You should see a reading of about 12 volts indicating a good ground. Then, check that the 5-volt reference is getting to the sensor by connecting the red multimeter lead to the reference voltage pin and the other to ground. You should see a reading of about 5 volts indicating a good reference voltage. Finally, check that there is continuity to the PCM. You can do this by touching one meter lead to the return signal pin on the sensor connector and the other to signal pin on the PCM. Set your meter to the ohms setting – you should see a value appear on the screen. If instead, your meter reads OL, you have an open circuit and will need to trace the factory wiring diagram.
• Test the sensor synchronization

CMP/CKP Synch status (yes/no) is displayed on many scan tools, but unfortunately, that parameter can’t always be trusted. The best way to test cam and crank sensors, as well as their synchronization, is with an oscilloscope. Increasingly more manufactures are offering sample wave form patterns in their repair information, which should be consulted before testing. The timing relationship (synchronization) of the two sensors will be distorted if a timing belt jumps time, a cam gear slips, a timing chain gets loose or a cam phaser misbehaves. Cracked reluctors and missing reluctors can also lead to an altered waveform pattern.

Hooking up a scope to a Hall Effect sensor

(Courtesy: autozone)

If the synchronization pattern is distorted, you need to find out why. In most cases, this will involve engine disassembly to the point of failure. Removing the timing cover and checking that the timing marks line up is one of the first things to do. Both timing belts and timing chains may stretch over time and/or have a failed tensioner.

An example of a cam and crank pattern

(Courtesy: aa1car.com)

Variable valve timing (VVT) system components can cause cam/crank correlation problems as well. These systems are often dependent on oil pressure, so checking the oil level is a good place to start. A plugged or failed oil control valve can also cause VVT problems.

(Courtesy: f150online.com)

VVT solenoids can be tested for continuity or resistance with a digital multimeter. The solenoid circuit should also be tested for proper power and ground. In addition, the solenoids can also be removed and jumpered to battery voltage to confirm operation. Many scan tools also offer bi-directional testing of the solenoids with just the push of a button.

• DTC: P0010 “A” Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
• DTC: P0011 “A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
• DTC: P0012 “A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
• DTC: P0013 “B” Camshaft Position – Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
• DTC: P0014 “B” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) – See Trouble Code P0011
• DTC: P0015 “B” Camshaft Position -Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1) – See Trouble Code P0012
• DTC: P0016 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)
• DTC: P0017 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor)
• DTC: P0018 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A)
• DTC: P0019 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor )
• DTC: P0020 “A” Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
• DTC: P0021 “A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
• DTC: P0022 “A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
• DTC: P0023 “B” Camshaft Position – Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) – See Trouble Code P0020
• DTC: P0024 “B” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2) – See Trouble Code P0021
• DTC: P0025 “B” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2) – See Trouble Code P0022

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I replaced cam and crank shaft and I still getting limp mode sometimes. the idle at start up takes forever to figure out and check engine light comes on. I’m getting this code on the reader. I think it might need new wires?

Do you mean you replace the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors? Have you checked the wiring that goes to them? There may be a wiring fault somewhere between the ECM and the sensors themselves if you’re still coming up with P0016.

Are you coming up with different DTCs now?

I HAVE A 2008 HHR CHEVY AND I STOPPED AND GOT GAS AND THEN ABOUT 10 MILES DOWN THE ROAD IT STARTED LOSEING POWER AND THEN DIE . IT WILL CRANK BUT WILL NOT HIT A LICK . PULLED PLUGS AND THEY ARE ALL FIRING REAL GOOD AND AS CHECKING THEM THERE WAS GAS COMING OUT OF PLUG HOLES . PUT KNEW CRANK AND CAM SENSORS IN BUT DID NOT HELP ANY. NOW THE CODE READS P0016 IT WILL NOT EVEN TRY TO START ANY IDEA

hellow Dear

I have 2007 Toyota vitiz with 3 piston ,1000 cc .

after long drive and some millage i saw check engine ,then after i stop the engine and park it the check engine stop and illuminate agine after some millage .

i have check it with computer get P00016 fault Code .

can you please assist me and is it good to drive with this fault .

Hello Filimin. Yes its okay to drive, but not long term. The timing appears to be off or out of sync in your timing belt system. I wouldnt waste time throwing sensors at it just yet; I would just take it to a mechnic who could align your timing marks perfectly, then erase the code. The crankshaft position and cam position have to be perfect, or things will be awry in your car as a whole. the timing may have jumped a bit. Hope this helped you, and good luck.

Hi, I’am looking for Daihatsu Terios PCM diagram. How can I get it?

Hey, I have Peugeot 308 XSE turbo my car is not functioning at all one issue could be of battery and I am getting P0016 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A) error the car stopped suddenly and didn’t pickup from there. Thanks,

Pritam- I would start with a new battery, then clear the codes and drive it. The ECU doesn’t like to see low voltage, and it cuts things out to prevent damage. Also, it seems that this engine is particularly susceptible to chain stretch, which would cause correlation faults. -Ben

I have a 08 toyota rav4 v6. Waterpump and thermastat was replaced same day I got it back and 3rd time I started that day it made a loud raddle noise for a second. I havnt heard that noise before and wondering if the cam shaft actuator could have been harmed when waterpumpbwas replaced

Hello Megan. I do think your timing chain did jump some teeth on the cam and crank. I would take it back to who did the water pump and thermostat so they can fix it right.

Hoping for a response before I head off to the VW specialist tomorrow.

I fuelled up the car. Turned it back on – it would cut off. Glow plug lights would illuminate. After a few failed attempts, the car started again.

Breakdown guy pulled this code out:

System Type: ENGINE SYSTEM TEST/VALUES Name: CFGB – TDI-CR DTC: P001600,Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation – Bank 1 Sensor A

I drove the car back 80miles without a single issue. What could it be?

Hello Isaac. Before taking it to your specialist, I believe you could end up getting your camshaft position actuator changed, or a new timing belt kit. Regards.

Ford 2009 Edge. Has V6 3.7L. Oil was changed. First P0015 & P0016. Then P0016 went away. Took it back and had them put new oil in (they over filled by quart). 15 & 16 went away, for a short time. Then P0016 came back. Put in new CPS’s (had it apart figured do both). P0016 will still trip intermittently. Let about half quart oil out. P0016 will still trip once in a while. No loss of performance though. Just strange, no problems till oil change. Check engine light does not come on now. If I didn’t have the OB reader hooked up, I would never notice.

Sorry, it’s a 3.5l V6

Gosh, I am like 85% sure it’s the water pump, which is chain driven off the same chain as the cam shafts and the drive shaft. Don’t see any leakage throw the weep hole, but there is like steam or smoke coming out of the dip stick hole when I check it. Oil really isn’t milky, but sure does look awfully dirty. The coolant level has gone down by about a 1/8th an inch. Just worried that a water pump replacement is like $1400 or more.

Interesting new development. If I cam out on the highway and keep it at highway speeds, it will not throw the P0016 at highway speeds. Above 1000 rpm. Drove for 20 miles checking and it wouldn’t throw the code. But when I stopped to turn around, it threw the code. A bit of help would be appreciated Mr. Olsen. .

Hello mr. Rice. Okay, so after hearing your symptoms, and digging into this a bit more. Here’s what I came up with for you. If you can, try to check voltage on a violet colored wire going to your intake variable cam timing solenoid.if you have voltage going to this solenoid, and If your timing is okay, replace the variable cam timing solenoid. This should cure your problem. Remeber it ks for the intake cam, not the exhaust cam solenoid. Cheers.

Helo mr. RICE. I dont really think it is the water pump quite honestly. Yes it may be chain driven, but honestly I think it may have jumped time a few teeth. This can happen when a chain becomes worn and doesnt get replaced or adjusted at regular intervals. I noticed you have quite a few miles on your rig. The sensor A is a cam posotion sensor on the exhaust cam. Maybe start by looking at the wiring harness on the sensor itself meanwhile having someone check the timing of your vehicle, or if you know how to do it yourself. Hope this narrows down your search, and that it can be timed correctly. Although overfilling your oil by a quart can be bad, looks like you handled it already and don’t think that is the reason for the code. If the crank cam correlation are out of sync, it is usually just out of timing. Regards, Nathaniel. A.S.E certified technician.

Buonasera, ho un problema con scirocco 1.4 TSI 122 CV, si accende la spia motore e dalla diagnosi mi da il codice P0016, ho sostituito il sensore albero a camme ma non ho risolto la cattura ha 150.000 km e mi è stato detto che potrebbe essere la catena allungata e il motore sfasato, preventivo circa 1.400 euro. Possibile? Mi dicono che con la catena va anche sostituito il variatore di fase che costa ben 460 euro, devo fidarmi? a me sembra un po strano, aspetto un vostro conforto grazie.

I have a 2011 Kia Sorento 4 cyl 2.4 L fwd. 1.5 years ago I had to accelerate to enter a freeway, and a minute later the engine bogged down with check engine light coming on. It kind of came back unbogging. After visit mechanic who reset a misfire error, the car was running ok with no light.

Then last winter I had some some wheel work done. It was about the coldest night of the winter. Engine light came back on. The oil could have been compromised – old, cold and slow.

So recently Tlthere were several codes – around 3. It took several seconds to start with the right punch on gas.

Replacing the camshaft sensors removed all but P0016. The car starts fine. Runs OK.

The OCV solenoids tested around 8 to 10.5 ohms at hot temperatures with spec ranges between 6.7 to 7.9 @ 68 deg F on the 2-3 mfgs.

I took out the exhaust OCV and it clicked fine with 12 volts momentary applied.

Where do I go from here? Stretched chain, phasers wacked, or what? The OCV oil filter is not inside behind the OCV but between cam and head.

Anyway last oil change exposed very old oil. New filter is KnE Gold high flow.

I have a 2008 Mustang 4.6L engine. After changing out the cams with ford performance cams and added the SVT tunes. I received code P0016. I have been running it this way for about 8 months now with no issues. Now its time for car inspection and I can’t get rid of this code. The car runs great and I can’t figure out the problem. Any guesses?

Why is there no info on the 2012 chrysler 300 with 3.6L VVT? I have replaced both camshaft position sensors which are located on the top of the engine towards the back firewall of the engine. They each have 4 wires but the internet only references 2 or 3 wire configurations. What is the parameters of the camshaft sensors for this vehicle and also do I have to relearn the system after replacing these sensors? I’ve tested the plug and crankshaft position sensor which came back 4.8 volts and .742 ohms respectfully. This is all do to a code P0016. Your thoughts please..

I have a 2006 Kia Sedona and the oil leaked out somehow and i don’t realize it. The P0016 code came on along with some misfires. I quickly stopped driving it and did a check and realized the oil problem and got some in there and since then it only stays with the P0016 code. There’s no fuel efficiency issues just some slow acceleration. What do you think? Also I was told there is a small crack above the oil pan.

Hi, I have the code P0016 on my Porsche Cayenne Turbo 2010 V8 engine . Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A) Please can you help me to identify the correct position left or Right ? When you seat in the car this is the left one or Right one ?

I have a 2009 chevy express with a 6.0 liter engine i have code for a camshaft sensor and a crank sensor.I did the test on both and replace both sensors with GM parts. And I still have the same problem dies on deceleration and crank no start till it sits for a couple of hours. So i did some more research and replace oil with synthetic oil new filter. also change timing chain sprockets,chain, oil pump, camshaft actuator mechanical and electrical component.Oh yeah i also did a camshaft relearn with a tech 2 and im still having the same problem of dies when deceleration and crank no start. anyone have any ideas help is appreciated.

WINTER SALE!

P0016 – Meaning, Causes, Symptoms, & Fixes

Home > OBD2 Codes P0016 – Meaning, Causes, Symptoms, & Fixes

Justin Hughes

• March 16, 2022

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What Does Code P0016 Mean?

• P0016 definition : The correlation of the camshaft and crankshaft positions on bank 1 is incorrect based on the intake camshaft position sensor.
• Issue Severity: SEVERE – Stop driving immediately 
• Repair Urgency: Fix this code immediately (same day if possible) to avoid internal engine damage.
• Diagnosis: This trouble code can cause the vehicle to be hard to start and run rough. In some cases, the vehicle may not be driveable. It should be addressed as soon as possible. Use the  FIXD Sensor and app  to  diagnose and fix P0016 yourself ,  see the most likely fix and cost  for your car, access our  Mechanic Hotline , and more.
• Common Reason: Code P0016 is often related to low oil or low oil pressure problems .

In order for the engine to run smoothly and efficiently, it has to know exactly what positions the camshaft and crankshaft are in their rotation. It does this by monitoring them using the Camshaft Position Sensor(s) and Crankshaft Position Sensor. If the Engine Control Module (ECM) detects that the bank 1 intake camshaft and crankshaft are not in the correct position, it will trigger code P0016.

P0016 Causes

There are many potential causes of code P0016.

• Stretched timing chain
• Jumped timing
• Slipped reluctor ring on the crankshaft
• Slipped reluctor ring on bank 1 exhaust camshaft
• Faulty timing chain tensioner
• Low/dirty oil

P0016 Symptoms

• Check Engine Light
• Rough running engine
• Poor fuel economy
• Decreased engine performance
• Timing chain noise
• Hard/extended start
• No noticeable adverse conditions in some cases

How Do I Fix Code P0016?

With a cam or crank position sensor fault, the first step is to get it diagnosed to figure out what is causing the problem.

The  FIXD Sensor and app can help you diagnose and fix P0016 yourself by giving you access to detailed engine diagnostics that are easy to understand (even if you don’t know cars), live OBD2 data, and a Mechanic Hotline. You can even use FIXD to clear the fault codes on your vehicle and see if your fix worked, or simply turn off codes that aren’t serious.

> Click here to get FIXD for $19.99 for a limited time!

If your vehicle has this fault and you’re not comfortable diagnosing this issue at home, we recommend finding a RepairPal certified shop nearby to pinpoint the problem and give an accurate estimate for repairs. 

These shops can not only help you figure out what’s going wrong before you waste time and money on the wrong parts, but they also offer a minimum 12-month, 12,000-mile warranty and stand behind all their estimates with guaranteed fair pricing.

How Much Does It Cost to Fix Code P0016?

P0016 can be caused by anything from a stretched timing belt or chain to a bad sensor to dirty oil. It’s impossible to give an accurate estimate without properly diagnosing the issue first. 

If you take your car to a shop for diagnosis, most shops will start with an hour of “diag time” (the time spent in labor diagnosing your specific issue). Depending on the shop’s labor rate, this typically costs somewhere between $75-$150. Many, if not most, shops will apply this diagnosis fee to any required repairs if you have them perform the repairs for you. From there, a shop will be able to give you an accurate estimate for repairs to fix your P0016 code.

Possible Repair Costs for P0016

For error code P0016, one or more of the below repairs may be needed to solve the underlying issue. For each possible repair, the estimated cost of repair includes the cost of the relevant parts and the cost of labor required to make the repair.

• Engine oil and filter change $20-$60
• Camshaft position sensor: $176 to $227
• Crankshaft position sensor: $168 to $224
• Reluctor ring $200-$600
• Timing belt: $309 to $390
• Timing chain: $1,624 to $1,879

DIY Steps to Diagnose Code P0016

Engine code P0016 could be caused by a number of things, including a stretched timing belt or chain, a bad sensor, or even dirty oil. If you’d like to try to fix code P0016 at home without throwing money at parts, you’ll want to follow the steps below for proper diagnosis. Keep in mind this is an advanced-level diagnosis and repair and not recommended for beginners. Diagnosis requires more specialized equipment beyond what the FIXD Sensor can provide and it can be a time and labor-intensive process for inexperienced DIYers.

DIY difficulty level: Advanced

This repair requires mechanical knowledge and is not recommended for beginners.

Tools/parts needed (our top picks from Amazon):

• Basic Hand Tools
• Vehicle-Specific Service Manual
• Oscilloscope

STEP 1: USE FIXD TO ENSURE NO OTHER ENGINE CODES ARE PRESENT

Use FIXD to scan your vehicle to verify P0016 is the only code present.

STEP 2: CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL

Check the oil level and if incorrect, correct to the proper level. If it’s dirty, replace the engine oil and filter. Clear the code, and see if it comes back.

STEP 3: CHECK FOR TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS

Check for any Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) for your make and model vehicle. For example, certain General Motors vehicles (GMC, Chevrolet, Buick, Cadillac) have a known issue with stretched timing chains, which can cause this fault. If a TSB applies to your vehicle, perform this service first.

STEP 4: COMPARE SENSOR DATA USING AN OSCILLOSCOPE

This code requires an oscilloscope for proper diagnosis. Not all shops are equipped with this but many are. Using the O-scope (oscilloscope), connect to the signal wire for the crankshaft position sensor and bank 1 and bank 2 (if equipped) camshaft position sensors and compare the three (or two) to each other. If they are offset from their proper locations, a stretched timing chain, jumped timing, or a slipped reluctor ring is the issue. Replace the necessary parts to resolve the concern.

Common P0016 Diagnosis Mistakes

Not checking for TSBs before starting diagnosis.

Still Need Help Fixing Code P0016?

If you’ve followed the steps above and are still experiencing check engine code P0016, please contact the FIXD Mechanic Hotline if you’re a FIXD Premium subscriber or find a RepairPal certified shop near you to get the right repairs at a fair price. Don’t have a FIXD Sensor yet?  Click here to get yours for just $19.99 , including a free 14-day trial of FIXD Premium!

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Fixed It But The Check Engine Light Is Still On?

Check engine light sometimes need to be reset manually, check out our article:

How to Reset Your Check Engine Light | 4 Ways To Clear It (With or Without a Scanner)

15 Responses

I have issue with my Toyota Corolla 2007, it usually stop while in the traffic if I should start the engine again it will start but whenever I match break the engine goes off

Where is the cam shift position sensor on a 2013 smart car for two

I have a trusted mechanic that recommended leaving this alone on my 2008 Avalanche. His reasoning: The repair would likely run $1100. He said it might fix the issue but he had no way of knowing now if there was internal engine damage due to the problem. Replacing the engine could be done for about $3000. If there is already damage, the $1100 repair was for nothing and I still need a new engine. He said it could run for a week and clunk out or go for a long time. I chose to run it til it blows up. A year later, still runs fine. Only problem (besides the annoying engine light) is my autostart doesn’t work when there is an engine fault. I am not a mechanic and don’t necessarily recommend my strategy but that is what I did.

I agree with you, I just got p0016 code but have no performance issues. I’ll keep driving till it starts having problems then replace the timing chain myself. If you get a code reader that can delete the codes you can do each time you shut the car of then the remote start will work. PIA but works in the really cold weather.

can anyone tell me what size socket to use on the crankshaft sensor for a 2010 chevy cobalt? can barely get to the sensor let alone see the bolt to gauge its size.

Can this be expensive to fix ?

How Expensive is This to Fix

you will have a waveforms p0016 correlation good and bad

The information was quite helpful. Many thanks and best wishes.

2008 Ford Expedition xl, camshaft position sensor bank 1, where is located? Code p0016

On the 2007 E350 Mercedes the camshaft position sensor bank 1 sensor A where is it located

Not to sure but I have a Clk350 is a very similar engine is located on the front of the engine on the right hand side as you seated on the car as 2 sensors exactly the same

Have you solved the P0016 problem ? What was the cause and solution ? I have the P0017 code; is the same only for sensor B.

Many thanks for your answer,

Need to try and locate where sensor wiring is

Hello I have a jeep Compas a check for a code and it says my camshaft position sensor need to be replace I replaced it and the check engine light is still on what do you think it could be

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Recovering autocross and track day enthusiast. Once turned a VW Jetta into a pickup truck. Lives in a van down by the river. Dream car: 2001 Subaru WRC rally car.

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P0016 Code: Meaning, Symptoms, Causes (And How To Fix It)

Table of Contents

The camshaft  and  crankshaft are the vital components of the internal combustion engine .  The vehicle contains a crankshaft position sensor and a camshaft position sensor to measure the positions of the crankshaft and camshaft respectively. The powertrain control module (PCM) of your vehicle triggers the P0016 code when it detects that the bank 1 intake camshaft and crankshaft are not in the correct position. This article mainly explains the P0016 code meaning, causes, and symptoms.

P0016 Code Definition

The P0016 code stands for Camshaft Position A – Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1). 

What Does The P0016 Code Mean?

The P0016 code indicates that the signal coming from the Bank 1 camshaft position sensor is not correlating  with the crankshaft position sensor signal. 

To ensure the engine operates smoothly and efficiently, it relies on precise information about the camshaft and crankshaft positions during their rotation. This information is achieved through the use of the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor .

The camshaft position sensor of your vehicle measures the position of the camshaft and sends this information to the PCM. The PCM utilizes this information to regulate the fuel injection rate and ensures efficient combustion of the air-fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber. 

The crankshaft position sensor measures the crankshaft position and sends this information to the PCM. The PCM utilizes this information to control fuel injection rate and ignition timing. When the PCM detects that the bank 1 intake camshaft and crankshaft are not in the correct position, it triggers the engine code P0016.

Causes of P0016 Code

The following are the common causes of the P0016 code:

• Worn timing belt
• The camshaft phaser is out of position due to problems with a phaser.
• Damaged or bad connections or wiring
• The failure of the mechanical oil system
• Bad CKP sensor
• Bad camshaft phaser
• Bad camshaft position sensor
• Insufficient engine oil
• Damaged timing chain tensioner
• Dirty engine oil
• Oil Control Valve (OCV) has a restriction in the OCV filter.
• Stretched timing chain

Symptoms of P0016 Code

When the P0016 trouble code is activated, it produces one of the below-given signs:

• Excessive noise coming from the timing chain
• Illuminated Check Engine Light 
• Poor acceleration
• Poor engine performance
• Engine stalling
• Rough idling 
• Engine surging
• An issue with the timing system may also lead to engine misfires
• The engine may have starting issues or will not start at all.
• Poor fuel economy

Read More: Symptoms of Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

How to diagnose the P0016 Code?

There are multiple methods to diagnose the P0016 code. One of the best methods to diagnose the trouble code is to use an OBD-II scanner or book a diagnostic test with a trusted professional.

Follow the below-given steps to diagnose the P0016 code properly:

• First of all, retrieve all the error codes present in the PCM memory using an OBD-II scan tool.
• Properly analyze the freeze frame data. Clear the PCM memory and take your vehicle for a test drive. If the P0016 code returns, deeply inspect the system.
• Properly examine the wires connected to the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor.
• Examine the electrical connections for damage or corrosion.
• Make sure the engine oil level is according to the engine’s requirements. The oil must be clean with sufficient viscosity. A low level of engine oil may cause P0016.
• An issue with the timing components may also cause the P0016. Therefore, properly examine the timing components including timing belt/chain, serpentine belt, and crankshaft pulleys.
• Visually inspect the physical condition of the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor.
• Use a multimeter to test the performance of the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor.
• Check the performance of the variable valve timing (VVT) solenoid or oil control valve.
• After making the necessary repairs, clear the error codes and perform a test drive.
• While driving your vehicle, use a scan tool to check the live data from the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor.

How to avoid a P0016 trouble code?

The best way to stop the P0016 code is to maintain the car according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Follow the below-given tips to avoid P0016:

• If the temperature begins to exceed 32°C , immediately park your car in a sheltered area because extreme heat may damage sensitive components such as timing and sensor parts.
• You must prevent your vehicle from extreme vibration. This can also damage sensitive parts. For example, avoid traveling at high speeds on bad roads.
• Regularly inspect the wiring for malfunction and corrosion, especially when changing the engine oil.
• Change the oil regularly to keep it clean, and always use the high viscosity oil according to the manufacturer’s
• Maintain sufficient oil level.

Common P0016 Diagnosis Mistakes

Following are the most common mistakes that you may make while diagnosing the P0016 trouble code.

• Error codes and problems not verified before diagnosis.
• No visual inspection for connections and wiring issues before their replacement.
• Use of inappropriate tools to inspect defective parts.
• Not doing all pinpoint test steps to help prevent misdiagnosis of good components
• You haven’t checked the engine oil level.

How much does it cost to repair the P0016?

The repair cost of the P0016 depends on many factors such as your living area, the labor cost, and vehicle type. The average repair cost of P0016 is from 70$ to $160 .

To fix the P0016 error code, you may need to repair one of the below-given parts of your vehicle. The table below represents the repair and labor costs of the relevant part.

What repairs can fix the P0016 Code?

• Reset the fault codes and perform a road test
• Replace the bad camshaft phaser
• Replace the bad camshaft sensor on bank 1
• Replace the bad oil control valve
• Replace the bad crankshaft position sensor on bank 1
• Replace the faulty timing chain and guides
• Repair the wiring or connection to the camshaft oil control valve or camshaft sensor
• Replace or reprogram the PCM
• Add more oil if it is low
• Change the engine oil if needed

FAQ Section

How serious is the p0016 code.

• The timing chain may have problems with tensioners or guides and can lead to major engine damage if the valves hit the pistons.
• The engine can have stalling or hesitations along with hard starting.
• Driving the vehicle for a prolonged time with the camshafts out of time may cause additional internal engine problems, depending on the failed part.

What are the causes of the P0016?

Your car may show a P0016 trouble code due to one of the below-given causes:

• The oil control valve has a restriction in the OCV filter
• Jumped timing
• Bad CMP sensor
• Engine overheating
• Failure of the mechanical oil system

Can I drive with a P0016 code?

The P0016 code indicates a serious problem with your car. The proper alignment of the camshaft and crankshaft is very important for the efficient working of the vehicle. This trouble code can cause the vehicle to be hard to start and run rough.  In some cases, the vehicle may not be driveable . It should be addressed as soon as possible.

Can a car run without a crankshaft position sensor?

The crankshaft position sensor is the most important of all engine management sensors, and the engine will absolutely not run without it.

Where is the camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A?

The “A” represents the Intake Camshaft located on the intake side of the cylinder head. “Bank 1” indicates the engine side containing cylinder No.1.

Can low engine oil cause a P0016 code?

Yes, low oil levels or dirty oil may lead to a P0016 code. The engines with a timing chain always need a regular oil supply to lubricate the chain properly. Therefore, you must inspect your vehicle oil level before driving and replace it with fresh oil at least once a year.

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• Engine & Transmission

By Auburn2011 November 18, 2019 in Engine & Transmission

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Engine light on.  Cleared it a couple times but within a couple hundred miles or a few engine starts, it comes back on.  Runs pretty good, occasionally a rough start.  Code says "camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A"  replaced that position sensor by a trusted local mechanic but no change in engine light or occasional rough start.  I have an appointment at the dealership but they can't get me in for another 12 days.  Any thoughts from the forum?  I tried to search for a current thread regarding this issue but i didn't see one so that is the reason for the new thread.  

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I would suggest going back to your trusted mechanic to find out why it isn't fixed (unless you already tried that). I assume they guarantee their work(?). What was the code it was spitting out? 

You have 12 days to do so...

Before you all start jumping on me. 

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P0016 code won't go away any help?

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So I have the 09 challanger sxt with the 3.5l engine...it has a check engine light and Trac light that came on and it throws a P0016 code which is a cam crank correlation code I replaced the camshaft and crank shaft sensors to no avail I then got a timing kit and replaced all including water pump and gasket timing tensioner and pulley and the timing belt and or course retimed everything as it was about 2 teeth off on one of the camshafts and 1 tooth of on the other...I put it back together cleared the codes and drove for about 20 minutes everything running smoothe all of a sudden the lights came back on and it started to run bad agian with the same code...any suggestions or help will be appreciated thanks  

Could be the PCM, perhaps the ODBII Reader you have is not removing the Stored Code in both the PCM and the BCM...  

I'm not 100% sure that it's just a code issue because when the light came back on it started stuttering and running pretty rough and the exhaust sounds slightly off as well as the rpms are increased  

I have to wonder how the timing was off by two teeth on one cam and 1 tooth on the other? Those are not insignificant differences. And timing belts just don't jump time. Are you sure you timed the cams are properly?  

So originally what had happened was my timing tensioner had failed and imploded upon itself lol when I retimed it I checked it and once I tightened the tensioner in before pulling the pin I cranked the engine over by hand 2 times around to tdc on the crank and all three times including before I turned it all three marks were lined up so I put it back together and it cranked and drove fine for about 20-30 minutes and then bam right back to as before  

Just an update so after re checking the timing it's still correct and re checking the codes the P0016 correlation code is no longer there it is a P3044 code which is a intermittent camshaft sensor code I tried to see if the tone ring was lose or bent I didn't notice anything obvious so I re installed my old camshaft sensor to see if there is a failure in the new one...I'm going to drive her to work tomorrow and we'll see how it goes 🤞🤞  

Do NOTHING ELSE until you do a compression test. These are an interference engine. Any valve that kissed a piston is bent. Otherwise you are wasting your time. -John  

Chrysler SOHC V6 engine - Wikipedia

1993–97 3.5 L engines are a non-interference engine meaning that the valves will not collide with the pistons in the event of a timing belt failure. The 1998–2001 3.2 L, the 1998–2010 3.5 L, and the 2007–2011 4.0 L engines are interference designs. They could word that better on Wiki. I can see how easy it is to make a mistake. -John  

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Shooter Files by f.d. walker

Street Photography Tips, Interaction, Travel, Guides

Apr 24 2017

City Street Guides by f.d. walker: A Street Photography Guide to Moscow, Russia

*A series of guides on shooting Street Photography in cities around the world. Find the best spots to shoot, things to capture, street walks, street tips, safety concerns, and more for cities around the world. I have personally researched, explored and shot Street Photography in every city that I create a guide for. So you can be ready to capture the streets as soon as you step outside with your camera!

At over 12 million people, Moscow is the largest city in Russia and second largest in Europe by population ( Istanbul is #1). An urban, cosmopolitan metropolis with more than enough glitz and glam to cater to the elite, but without losing its fair share of Soviet era roughness around the edges. It can be fast paced, brash, busy, and trendy like other big cities, but it has its blend of West meets Russia atmosphere and beauty that provides plenty of unique interest. The Red Square is as famous as it gets, but there’s so much more to this city, including the most beautiful subway system you’ve ever seen. It would take years to capture all of Moscow, but that means you have an endless amount of areas to discover.

So here’s a Street Photography guide so you can be ready to capture all that Moscow has to offer before you even arrive!

• Patriarch’s Pond
• Old Arbat Street
• Maroseyka Street
• Tverskoy Boulevard

Top 5 Street Spots:

1. red square.

The Red Square is the most famous square in not just Russia, but all of Eastern Europe. The name actually doesn’t come from the color of the bricks or communism, but from the name in Russian, Krásnaya, once meaning “beautiful” before its meaning changed to “red.” This large plaza is what you see on the cover of guide books and magazines for Moscow, with St. Basil’s Cathedral being the center piece next to Lenin’s Mausoleum surrounded by the Kremlin Wall. Of course, the Red Square attracts hordes of tourist due to the main attractions, but all that activity around an interesting atmosphere does provide street photo opportunities. It’s also the central square connecting to the city’s major streets, providing a good starting point to explore outward.

You’ll also find the popular pedestrian only Nikolskaya Street connecting the Red Square to Lubyanka Square. This line of expensive shops includes plenty of activity, while also leading you to another popular square. Filled with history rivaling any city, the Red Square and surrounding areas are the heart and soul of Russia.

2. Patriarch’s Ponds

Patriarch’s Ponds is one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Moscow. Despite the name being plural, there’s only one large pond, but it’s worth a visit with your camera. It’s a popular spot for locals and expats to come relax or take a stroll around the pond. You get an interesting mix of young and old too, from young love to “babushkas” feeding pigeons. It’s a very peaceful park atmosphere in one of the nicer areas within the city center, while bringing enough activity for street photography. 

The pond is shallow and in the winter becomes a popular spot for ice-skating too. The area is also well-known for the location in the famous Russian novel, The Master and Margarita. 

3. Old Arbat (Stary Arbat)

Old Arbat is the most famous pedestrian street in Moscow, and dating back to the 15th century, also one of its oldest. Originally, it was an area of trade, but soon became the most prestigious residential area in Moscow. During the 18th century, Arbat started attracting the city’s scholars and artists, including Alexander Pushkin. Cafes lined the streets and impressive homes filled the neighborhood. Since then, New Arbat street was created as a highway in the area, while Old Arbat was paved for a 1km pedestrian only walkway.

Due to the historic buildings, famous artists that lived here, and the bohemian atmosphere, Old Arbat has become a big attraction for tourists today. Now, there’s a mix of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, street performers, street merchants and other attractions for visitors, and some locals, to come enjoy. It can get really busy here and there’s usually something interesting going on so it’s a good street to come walk with your camera for guaranteed life.

4. Gorky Park

One of the most famous places in Moscow is Gorky Park. The official name is Maxim Gorky’s Central Park of Culture & Leisure, which gives you an idea of what goes on here. When built, it was the first of its kind in the Soviet Union. Divided into two parts, it stretches along Moscow River. One end contains fair rides, foods stands, tennis courts, a sports club, a lake for boat rides, and more. This end brings more active life due to its number of attractions, while the other end is more relaxed, where you’ll find gardens, trees, older buildings, and an outdoor amphitheater.

Gorky Park attracts mostly locals so it’s a good spot to capture the non-tourist side of Moscow life. Muscovites come here to escape the city and unwind in a picturesque setting. The park remains alive outside of the warmer months too, especially when the lake turns into the city’s largest outdoor skating rink. I’d recommend taking the metro out here to spend at least half a day exploring the massive park’s life with your camera.

5. Maroseyka Street

Maroseyka Street is a popular area not too far from the Red Square. The long, winding street turns into Pokrovka and is lined with restaurants, cafes, bars and places to stay. It’s actually where I like to stay when I’m in Moscow due to its location and solid street photography opportunities itself. You have Kitay-gorod station near and if you keep walking southwest, you’ll get to the Red Square. But if you walk northwest, as it changes to Pokrovka, you can find a long street of activity for photography with its own interesting atmosphere.

6. Tverskoy Boulevard

Tverskoy Boulevard is the oldest and longest boulevard in Moscow, beginning at the end of Nikitsky Boulevard, and finishing at Pushkin Square, a spot to come for activity itself. The boulevard is made up of two avenues, with pedestrian walkways in-between. You’ll find grass, shrubbery, trees, benches and more walking it’s almost kilometer length. Many people come here to enjoy some relaxation, walk their dog, or just to use it to walk wherever they’re going. Its center location also provides a nice place to walk with your camera near plenty of other spots you’ll want to check out anyway.

Sample Street Walk:

For a full day of Street Photography, covering some of the best spots, you can follow this sample street walk for Moscow:

• Start your morning walking around the Red Square (1), while exploring the surrounding area, including Nikolskaya Street
• Then walk northwest to Patriarch’s Ponds (2) and slowly walk the pond and surrounding area with your camera
• Next, walk east to the Pushkin Monument and stroll down Tverskoy Boulevard (6)
• Once Tverskoy Boulevard (6) ends, it will turn into Nikitsky Boulevard. Follow this down until you get to the start of Old Arbat Street (3), across from Arbatskaya station
• After you’re done walking down Old Arbat Street (3) for more street photography, spend some time checking out Moscow’s beautiful metro stations
• To finish off the day with more street photography, get off the metro near Red Square (1) again, Maroseyka Street (5) or wherever you’re staying for the night.

3 Things I’ll Remember about Shooting in Moscow:

1. museum metro.

The Moscow metro system was the first underground railway system in the Soviet Union and today includes 203 stations across 340km of routes. The elaborate system has some of the deepest stations in the world too, with escalators that seem to go on forever. None of this is what makes it so special, though. Many of its stations feel like stepping inside a museum, making it without a doubt the most interesting and beautiful metro system I’ve been in.

When built, Stalin wanted to make the metro stations “palaces for the people” with marble, chandeliers, and grand architecture. The best part is the variety of architecture and styles used, making many of the stations a completely different experience visually. You could easily spend a whole day traveling the stations and there are even tours available for people who wish to do just that. My advice, though, would be just to buy a ticket and hop on and off at different stations, while exploring different lines. The museum-like surrounding mixed with the crowds of characters can make for a great photography experience.

Since there are so many stations, here are some of my favorites to check out:

• Novoslobodskaya
• Mayakovskaya
• Elektrozavodskaya
• Komsomolskaya
• Ploschad Revolyutsii
• Dostoyevskaya
• Prospekt Mira

2. Moscow is Big

It’s no secret that Moscow is a big city, but it can feel even bigger with how spread out much of it is. This is especially true if you compare it to cities outside of Asia. If I compared it to cities in Europe, I’d probably say only Istanbul would warrant more time to really discover the depths of this city. Most only explore around the Red Square and surrounding area, but that is such a small part of the city. Although, that central area does give you plenty to see on its own.

Fortunately, I had a good friend living in the city to show me around, but it opened up my eyes even more to how much there is to discover in Moscow. It’s a big city with a variety of atmosphere that can take you from “east” to “west” and trendy to rugged depending on where you go. I’d imagine you’d have to live here a while to really know the city.

3. Cosmopolitan Mix of East meets West

Modern skyscrapers mixed with amazing architecture, a world-class metro system with museum-like beauty, trendy fashion and chic clubs, Moscow is a rich mix of Russian culture and history in a more western cosmopolitan package. There is a push to keep the Russian culture, while also pushing forward with a modern metropolis the whole world will envy. This comes with an impressive skyline, that continues to grow, and endless modernities, but with soviet nostalgia and atmosphere mixed in for good measure.

Mixed in with this grand western cosmopolitan atmosphere, is a strong national pride in Russia. This includes their famous leader, Vladimir Putin. Maybe no other place will you see a country’s leader more often. All over, from the pricey tourist shops to the underground walkway stalls, you’ll find goods with Putin’s likeness covering them. From t-shirts to magnets to Matryoshka dolls. There’s a strong national pride that can be seen around the city, which also extends to their leader. Moscow is many things. It’s East meets West, modernizations meets Soviet era, and a whole lot more.

What To Do For a Street Photography Break?:

Eat at a stolovaya.

Stolovayas are Russian cafeterias that became popular in the Soviet days. You grab a tray and walk down the line of freshly prepared local dishes, and select whatever you want from the chefs. They’re usually inexpensive and a much better value than restaurants, while giving you the opportunity to try from a wide selection of everyday Russian food. They’re also very tasty. I always include some borsch on my tray and go from there. The places themselves are all over Moscow and usually come with Soviet-era aesthetics to complete the experience.

Street Safety Score: 7

*As always, no place is completely safe! So when I talk about safety, I’m speaking in general comparison to other places. Always take precaution, be smart, observe your surroundings and trust your instincts anywhere you go!

Being the 2nd largest city in Europe with over 12 million people, you’re going to have your dangerous areas, but for the most part, it feels safe walking around. Russia is statistically higher in crime compared to most of Europe, but this generally doesn’t apply to tourists and visitors. Around the Red Square and surrounding city center, you should feel completely safe walking around. Pick pocketing can happen, but no more than other touristic places. I always explore Moscow freely without coming across too much to worry about. It’s a spread out city, though, so of course it matters where you are. Just use basic street smarts, know where you are and Moscow shouldn’t give you a problem. 

People’s Reaction Score: 7

Moscow is fast paced, big city life, which usually means people aren’t too concerned with you, or your camera. I don’t find people notice or pay much attention to me when I’m out taking photos in Moscow. For the most part, people just go about their day. You shouldn’t get too many looks or concern. But it can depend on the area you are in. The more you stick out, the more you might get noticed with suspicions. I’ve never had any problems in Moscow, or Russia, but just be careful who you’re taking a photo of if you get out of the city center. Other than that, it’s about average for reactions. 

Street Tips:

Learn the alphabet .

Much of Moscow, including the metro system, doesn’t use english. The Russian alphabet uses letters from the Cyrillic script, which if you aren’t familiar with it and don’t know the sounds, can be hard to decipher the words. This is most important for street names and metro stops when trying to get around. It can save confusion and make it easier getting around if you learn the basic alphabet. At the very least then, you can sound out the words to see which are similar in the english conversion, which can help matching them to maps. When out shooting street photography, getting around is as important as anything. So save yourself some time and frustration by learning the Russian Alphabet.

Use the metro

While Saint-Petersburg feels very walkable for a city its size, Moscow can feel very spread out, even for its bigger size. Outside of the Red Square area, you can have plenty of walking before getting anywhere very interesting, so you’ll need to take the metro a lot if you really want to explore the city. Maps are deceiving here too, it will always be further than it looks.

Another reason it’s less walkable than Saint-Petersburg is its completely different set-up. Moscow’s streets are mostly contstructed in rings with narrow, winding streets in-between. This is common with medieval city cities that used to be confined by walls, but you usually don’t have it in a city this massive. Saint-Petersburg has a more grid-like pattern that also uses the canals to help you know your way around. When it comes to navigating on foot in Moscow, it can be more difficult, so bring a map and take the metro when needed. It’s why Moscow’s metro carries more passengers per day than the London and Paris subways combined.

Explore other areas if you have time

Moscow is really big. While most people stay around the Red Square within the Boulevard Ring, there’s so much more to the city. I covered some other spots outside of this circle, but if you really want to see the city, you’ll need time. If you do have time, some other areas I’d check out first are Zamoskvarechye, along some of the south and western Moscow.

Inspiration:

For some more inspiration, you can look through the Street Photography of Moscow photographer Artem Zhitenev  and check out 33 of my photos taken in Moscow .

Conclusion:

Moscow’s name brings a certain mystique, but once you’re there it might bring a different atmosphere than you expect. It’s big and sprawling, but beautiful in many ways. It can feel like a European capital on a grand scale, but you can definitely find its Russian side in there.

The urban sprawl of Moscow can be intimidating, but give it enough time and you’ll be rewarded with plenty to discover. All with the world’s best metro system to take you around.

I hope this guide can help you start to experience some of what Moscow contains. So grab your camera and capture all that Moscow has to offer for Street Photography!

If you still have any questions about shooting in Moscow, feel free to comment below or email me!

(I want to make these guides as valuable as possible for all of you so add any ideas on improvements, including addition requests, in the comment section!)

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Early History

In the December 1812 manifesto, Tsar Alexander declared the cathedral would “…signify Our gratitude to Divine Providence for saving Russia from the doom that overshadowed Her and to preserve the memory of the unheard of efforts, loyalty, and love for our faith and homeland displayed during these difficult days by the Russian people…” While planning for the cathedral began as Napoleon and his army retreated from Russia its completion was decades later.

Under a plan by the architect Vitberg an initial start of the construction of cathedral began on October 12 , 1817 with laying and blessing of the cornerstone. The site chosen was on Sparrow Hills between the Smolensk and Kaluga roads. The site, however, was found to be unstable and not suitable for the planned structure. As alternatives were considered Alexander was succeeded by his brother Nicholas I who had different architectural preferences. Konstantin A. Ton presented a second plan that placed the cathedral on a different site on the bank of the Moscow River that was occupied by the Aleksevevsky Convent and the Church of All Saints. The new plan was approved by Nicholas I on April 10 , 1832.

After moving the convent to Sokolniki, construction of the Cathedral began on September 10 , 1839 with the laying of the cornerstone. Construction of the huge structure continued for forty years. By 1841, the walls of the lower level were completed, followed by the joining of the arch of the main cupola in 1846. Covered by scaffolding, work continued on the exterior facing of the building and a start was made on construction of the metal roofs and lesser cupolas. The main cupola was completed in 1849. In 1860, the scaffolding was removed and the Cathedral was revealed for the first time in all its glory.

Construction continued on details of the structure while areas around the Cathedral, including riverbank terraces and squares, were completed. By 1881 the major construction was finished, including a bronze balustrade and exterior lanterns. Work on the interior frescoes continued for another twenty years. The Cathedral was formally named the Cathedral of Christ the Savior on December 13 , 1880, when the priests and other clergy were also assigned to it for the first time. The Cathedral was consecrated on Ascension Day, May 26 , 1883, the day that Tsar Alexander III was crowned. Chapels , located in the upper gallery, were dedicated to Ss. Nicholas and Alexander Nevsky , on June 12 and July 8 , 1883 respectively.

The design of the cathedral followed that of ancient Russian churches that were built in the Byzantine style. It differed in having a more regular shape and was lighter in form. The cathedral contained a number of altars . The staff of the Cathedral was relatively small; the rector , an assistant rector, three priests, one protodeacon , two deacons , two subdeacons , four readers , two sextons, twelve bell-ringers, one baker (who made prosphora ), and the choir. Among the leaders of the choir were the famous composers A. A. Arkhangelsky and P. G. Chesnokov.

In the following years services were held regularly. Among the important events marked in the Cathedral were the 500th anniversary of the death of St. Sergius of Radonezh , the 100th anniversary of the war of 1812, the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty, and consecration of memorials to Tsar Alexander III and Nicholas Gogol. The opening session of the council of 1917-1918 , that reinstated the patriarchate in the Russian Church, was held in the Cathedral. The Cathedral became the center for education and enlightenment.

After the assumption of governmental power by the Bolsheviks, the Cathedral was eventually closed. The site that it was on, as well as for ideological reasons, became an important factor in Bolshevik urban planning. Their plans entailed construction of a grandiose Palace of Soviets on the site topped with a statue of Vladimir Illich Ulyanov (Lenin) as a symbol of socialist victory and the leader of world proletariat. On December 5 , 1931 destruction of the Cathedral began under direction of Joseph Vissarionovich Djugashvili (Stalin) . It was a year before the site was cleared.

The construction of the palace was hampered from the start by lack of funds, problems with the foundation soil, flooding from the nearby Moscow River, and then World War II. The hugh hole blighted the area for years until Nikita Khrushchev had the site converted into a hugh swimming pool during the 1950s.

Recent history

The political thaw of the late 1980s brought on by a period of perestroika and the fall of the Soviet Union created an opening in which the Holy Synod of the Church of Russia , led by Patriarch Alexei II , requested the government of Russia and the City of Moscow for restoration of the destroyed Cathedral. Having been given approval in February 1990, the construction of the restored Cathedral began under Aleksey Denisov replicating the original design. Ordinary citizens contributed greatly to the construction fund that was started in 1994. After construction of the restored cathedral was well under way Denisov replaced by Zurab Tsereteli who made some controversial changes to the original design.

In 1996, the lower part of the building was completed and, in 1996, the church within it was consecrated to the Transfiguration of Our Lord. The completed Cathedral of Christ the Savior was consecrated on August 19 , 2000. Monumental statues of the Tsars Alexander II and Nicholas II were placed near the Cathedral and several chapels were built on the cathedral square.

On May 17 , 2007, in the assembly hall also located in the Cathedral, the ‘‘Act of Canonical Communion between the Moscow Patriarchate of the Russian Orthodox Church and Russian Orthodox Church Outside Russia’’ ( ROCOR ) was signed, restoring full communion with the Moscow Patriarchate. The reunion was celebrated by a Divine Liturgy concelebrated by Alexei II, Patriarch of Moscow and All Russia and Metr. Laurus , First Hierarch of ROCOR.

External links

• Index - The Cathedral of Christ the Savior
• The Cathedral of Christ the Savior
• History of the Cathedral (1812-1931)
• Wikipedia:Cathedral_of_Christ_the_Saviour Moscow
• Churches in Russia

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In Transit: Notes from the Underground

Jun 06 2018.

Spend some time in one of Moscow’s finest museums.

Subterranean commuting might not be anyone’s idea of a good time, but even in a city packing the war-games treasures and priceless bejeweled eggs of the Kremlin Armoury and the colossal Soviet pavilions of the VDNKh , the Metro holds up as one of Moscow’s finest museums. Just avoid rush hour.

The Metro is stunning and provides an unrivaled insight into the city’s psyche, past and present, but it also happens to be the best way to get around. Moscow has Uber, and the Russian version called Yandex Taxi , but also some nasty traffic. Metro trains come around every 90 seconds or so, at a more than 99 percent on-time rate. It’s also reasonably priced, with a single ride at 55 cents (and cheaper in bulk). From history to tickets to rules — official and not — here’s what you need to know to get started.

A Brief Introduction Buying Tickets Know Before You Go (Down) Rules An Easy Tour

A Brief Introduction

Moscow’s Metro was a long time coming. Plans for rapid transit to relieve the city’s beleaguered tram system date back to the Imperial era, but a couple of wars and a revolution held up its development. Stalin revived it as part of his grand plan to modernize the Soviet Union in the 1920s and 30s. The first lines and tunnels were constructed with help from engineers from the London Underground, although Stalin’s secret police decided that they had learned too much about Moscow’s layout and had them arrested on espionage charges and deported.

The beauty of its stations (if not its trains) is well-documented, and certainly no accident. In its illustrious first phases and particularly after the Second World War, the greatest architects of Soviet era were recruited to create gleaming temples celebrating the Revolution, the USSR, and the war triumph. No two stations are exactly alike, and each of the classic showpieces has a theme. There are world-famous shrines to Futurist architecture, a celebration of electricity, tributes to individuals and regions of the former Soviet Union. Each marble slab, mosaic tile, or light fixture was placed with intent, all in service to a station’s aesthetic; each element, f rom the smallest brass ear of corn to a large blood-spattered sword on a World War II mural, is an essential part of the whole.

The Metro is a monument to the Soviet propaganda project it was intended to be when it opened in 1935 with the slogan “Building a Palace for the People”. It brought the grand interiors of Imperial Russia to ordinary Muscovites, celebrated the Soviet Union’s past achievements while promising its citizens a bright Soviet future, and of course, it was a show-piece for the world to witness the might and sophistication of life in the Soviet Union.

It may be a museum, but it’s no relic. U p to nine million people use it daily, more than the London Underground and New York Subway combined. (Along with, at one time, about 20 stray dogs that learned to commute on the Metro.)

In its 80+ year history, the Metro has expanded in phases and fits and starts, in step with the fortunes of Moscow and Russia. Now, partly in preparation for the World Cup 2018, it’s also modernizing. New trains allow passengers to walk the entire length of the train without having to change carriages. The system is becoming more visitor-friendly. (There are helpful stickers on the floor marking out the best selfie spots .) But there’s a price to modernity: it’s phasing out one of its beloved institutions, the escalator attendants. Often they are middle-aged or elderly women—“ escalator grandmas ” in news accounts—who have held the post for decades, sitting in their tiny kiosks, scolding commuters for bad escalator etiquette or even bad posture, or telling jokes . They are slated to be replaced, when at all, by members of the escalator maintenance staff.

For all its achievements, the Metro lags behind Moscow’s above-ground growth, as Russia’s capital sprawls ever outwards, generating some of the world’s worst traffic jams . But since 2011, the Metro has been in the middle of an ambitious and long-overdue enlargement; 60 new stations are opening by 2020. If all goes to plan, the 2011-2020 period will have brought 125 miles of new tracks and over 100 new stations — a 40 percent increase — the fastest and largest expansion phase in any period in the Metro’s history.

Facts: 14 lines Opening hours: 5 a.m-1 a.m. Rush hour(s): 8-10 a.m, 4-8 p.m. Single ride: 55₽ (about 85 cents) Wi-Fi network-wide

Buying Tickets

• Ticket machines have a button to switch to English.
• You can buy specific numbers of rides: 1, 2, 5, 11, 20, or 60. Hold up fingers to show how many rides you want to buy.
• There is also a 90-minute ticket , which gets you 1 trip on the metro plus an unlimited number of transfers on other transport (bus, tram, etc) within 90 minutes.
• Or, you can buy day tickets with unlimited rides: one day (218₽/ US$4), three days (415₽/US$7) or seven days (830₽/US$15). Check the rates here to stay up-to-date.
• If you’re going to be using the Metro regularly over a few days, it’s worth getting a Troika card , a contactless, refillable card you can use on all public transport. Using the Metro is cheaper with one of these: a single ride is 36₽, not 55₽. Buy them and refill them in the Metro stations, and they’re valid for 5 years, so you can keep it for next time. Or, if you have a lot of cash left on it when you leave, you can get it refunded at the Metro Service Centers at Ulitsa 1905 Goda, 25 or at Staraya Basmannaya 20, Building 1.
• You can also buy silicone bracelets and keychains with built-in transport chips that you can use as a Troika card. (A Moscow Metro Fitbit!) So far, you can only get these at the Pushkinskaya metro station Live Helpdesk and souvenir shops in the Mayakovskaya and Trubnaya metro stations. The fare is the same as for the Troika card.
• You can also use Apple Pay and Samsung Pay.

Rules, spoken and unspoken

No smoking, no drinking, no filming, no littering. Photography is allowed, although it used to be banned.

Stand to the right on the escalator. Break this rule and you risk the wrath of the legendary escalator attendants. (No shenanigans on the escalators in general.)

Get out of the way. Find an empty corner to hide in when you get off a train and need to stare at your phone. Watch out getting out of the train in general; when your train doors open, people tend to appear from nowhere or from behind ornate marble columns, walking full-speed.

Always offer your seat to elderly ladies (what are you, a monster?).

An Easy Tour

This is no Metro Marathon ( 199 stations in 20 hours ). It’s an easy tour, taking in most—though not all—of the notable stations, the bulk of it going clockwise along the Circle line, with a couple of short detours. These stations are within minutes of one another, and the whole tour should take about 1-2 hours.

Start at Mayakovskaya Metro station , at the corner of Tverskaya and Garden Ring,  Triumfalnaya Square, Moskva, Russia, 125047.

1. Mayakovskaya.  Named for Russian Futurist Movement poet Vladimir Mayakovsky and an attempt to bring to life the future he imagined in his poems. (The Futurist Movement, natch, was all about a rejecting the past and celebrating all things speed, industry, modern machines, youth, modernity.) The result: an Art Deco masterpiece that won the National Grand Prix for architecture at the New York World’s Fair in 1939. It’s all smooth, rounded shine and light, and gentle arches supported by columns of dark pink marble and stainless aircraft steel. Each of its 34 ceiling niches has a mosaic. During World War II, the station was used as an air-raid shelter and, at one point, a bunker for Stalin. He gave a subdued but rousing speech here in Nov. 6, 1941 as the Nazis bombed the city above.

Take the 3/Green line one station to:

2. Belorusskaya. Opened in 1952, named after the connected Belarussky Rail Terminal, which runs trains between Moscow and Belarus. This is a light marble affair with a white, cake-like ceiling, lined with Belorussian patterns and 12 Florentine ceiling mosaics depicting life in Belarussia when it was built.

Transfer onto the 1/Brown line. Then, one stop (clockwise) t o:

3. Novoslobodskaya.  This station was designed around the stained-glass panels, which were made in Latvia, because Alexey Dushkin, the Soviet starchitect who dreamed it up (and also designed Mayakovskaya station) couldn’t find the glass and craft locally. The stained glass is the same used for Riga’s Cathedral, and the panels feature plants, flowers, members of the Soviet intelligentsia (musician, artist, architect) and geometric shapes.

Go two stops east on the 1/Circle line to:

4. Komsomolskaya. Named after the Komsomol, or the Young Communist League, this might just be peak Stalin Metro style. Underneath the hub for three regional railways, it was intended to be a grand gateway to Moscow and is today its busiest station. It has chandeliers; a yellow ceiling with Baroque embellishments; and in the main hall, a colossal red star overlaid on golden, shimmering tiles. Designer Alexey Shchusev designed it as an homage to the speech Stalin gave at Red Square on Nov. 7, 1941, in which he invoked Russia’s illustrious military leaders as a pep talk to Soviet soldiers through the first catastrophic year of the war.   The station’s eight large mosaics are of the leaders referenced in the speech, such as Alexander Nevsky, a 13th-century prince and military commander who bested German and Swedish invading armies.

One more stop clockwise to Kurskaya station,  and change onto the 3/Blue  line, and go one stop to:

5. Baumanskaya.   Opened in 1944. Named for the Bolshevik Revolutionary Nikolai Bauman , whose monument and namesake district are aboveground here. Though he seemed like a nasty piece of work (he apparently once publicly mocked a woman he had impregnated, who later hung herself), he became a Revolutionary martyr when he was killed in 1905 in a skirmish with a monarchist, who hit him on the head with part of a steel pipe. The station is in Art Deco style with atmospherically dim lighting, and a series of bronze sculptures of soldiers and homefront heroes during the War. At one end, there is a large mosaic portrait of Lenin.

Stay on that train direction one more east to:

6. Elektrozavodskaya. As you may have guessed from the name, this station is the Metro’s tribute to all thing electrical, built in 1944 and named after a nearby lightbulb factory. It has marble bas-relief sculptures of important figures in electrical engineering, and others illustrating the Soviet Union’s war-time struggles at home. The ceiling’s recurring rows of circular lamps give the station’s main tunnel a comforting glow, and a pleasing visual effect.

Double back two stops to Kurskaya station , and change back to the 1/Circle line. Sit tight for six stations to:

7. Kiyevskaya. This was the last station on the Circle line to be built, in 1954, completed under Nikita Khrushchev’ s guidance, as a tribute to his homeland, Ukraine. Its three large station halls feature images celebrating Ukraine’s contributions to the Soviet Union and Russo-Ukrainian unity, depicting musicians, textile-working, soldiers, farmers. (One hall has frescoes, one mosaics, and the third murals.) Shortly after it was completed, Khrushchev condemned the architectural excesses and unnecessary luxury of the Stalin era, which ushered in an epoch of more austere Metro stations. According to the legend at least, he timed the policy in part to ensure no Metro station built after could outshine Kiyevskaya.

Change to the 3/Blue line and go one stop west.

8. Park Pobedy. This is the deepest station on the Metro, with one of the world’s longest escalators, at 413 feet. If you stand still, the escalator ride to the surface takes about three minutes .) Opened in 2003 at Victory Park, the station celebrates two of Russia’s great military victories. Each end has a mural by Georgian artist Zurab Tsereteli, who also designed the “ Good Defeats Evil ” statue at the UN headquarters in New York. One mural depicts the Russian generals’ victory over the French in 1812 and the other, the German surrender of 1945. The latter is particularly striking; equal parts dramatic, triumphant, and gruesome. To the side, Red Army soldiers trample Nazi flags, and if you look closely there’s some blood spatter among the detail. Still, the biggest impressions here are the marble shine of the chessboard floor pattern and the pleasingly geometric effect if you view from one end to the other.

Keep going one more stop west to:

9. Slavyansky Bulvar.  One of the Metro’s youngest stations, it opened in 2008. With far higher ceilings than many other stations—which tend to have covered central tunnels on the platforms—it has an “open-air” feel (or as close to it as you can get, one hundred feet under). It’s an homage to French architect Hector Guimard, he of the Art Nouveau entrances for the Paris M é tro, and that’s precisely what this looks like: A Moscow homage to the Paris M é tro, with an additional forest theme. A Cyrillic twist on Guimard’s Metro-style lettering over the benches, furnished with t rees and branch motifs, including creeping vines as towering lamp-posts.

Stay on the 3/Blue line and double back four stations to:

10. Arbatskaya. Its first iteration, Arbatskaya-Smolenskaya station, was damaged by German bombs in 1941. It was rebuilt in 1953, and designed to double as a bomb shelter in the event of nuclear war, although unusually for stations built in the post-war phase, this one doesn’t have a war theme. It may also be one of the system’s most elegant: Baroque, but toned down a little, with red marble floors and white ceilings with gilded bronze c handeliers.

Jump back on the 3/Blue line  in the same direction and take it one more stop:

11. Ploshchad Revolyutsii (Revolution Square). Opened in 1938, and serving Red Square and the Kremlin . Its renowned central hall has marble columns flanked by 76 bronze statues of Soviet heroes: soldiers, students, farmers, athletes, writers, parents. Some of these statues’ appendages have a yellow sheen from decades of Moscow’s commuters rubbing them for good luck. Among the most popular for a superstitious walk-by rub: the snout of a frontier guard’s dog, a soldier’s gun (where the touch of millions of human hands have tapered the gun barrel into a fine, pointy blade), a baby’s foot, and a woman’s knee. (A brass rooster also sports the telltale gold sheen, though I am told that rubbing the rooster is thought to bring bad luck. )

Now take the escalator up, and get some fresh air.

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21 Things to Know Before You Go to Moscow

Featured city guides.

Dodge Journey P0019: Crank/Cam Position Correlation – Bank 2 Sensor “B”

P0019 is a generic OBD II trouble code.  It is typically thrown when the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor are out of alignment by a certain number of degrees,  if there is an issue with the wiring, or one of the sensors themselves may have gone bad. We’ll explore all the symptoms and causes directly below.

P0019 refers to which camshaft position sensor is out of time with the Crankshaft. In this case it’s sensor “B”. Sensor “A” throws P0017 .

Dodge Journey P0019 Symptoms

P0019 should be considered an important trouble code to diagnose and repair. The crank and cam sensors work in tandem to produce the ideal air/fuel ratio for your engine. When this timing is off, the engine will typically not run (or barely run).

Here are the major symptoms of P0019 in the Journey:

• Failure to start
• Rattle coming from the motor
• Service engine soon light
• Engine poorly running

P0019 Causes and Solutions: Dodge Journey

Here are the most common causes of P0019 in the Dodge Journey, and resources to help you diagnose the problem. It’ll either be a wiring issue, or it’ll be a physical problem (bad reluctor or timing chain jumped).

1. Wiring Issues

One of the most common causes of P0019 in any vehicle is going to be wiring issues. You’ll want to inspect the wiring harness for visible damage. A lot of the harness leading to and from the Crank/Cam sensors is going to be exposed to hot exhaust and vibration. This is a great place to start diagnosing P0019 in your Journey. It’s quick and easy to do this before moving on to the sensors themselves.

Make sure to check the harness where it plugs into both sensors as well.

How to Diagnose Vehicle Wiring Problems (AA1 Car)

2. Bad Sensors

After examining the wiring harness, it would be time to check the sensors themselves. Using a simple voltage tester, you’ll be able to determine whether or not they are functioning correctly. We linked to a great video showing you how to do so directly below.

How to test a crankshaft or camshaft sensor (YouTube)

Crankshaft Position Sensor (Amazon Low Price)

Camshaft Position Sensor (Amazon)

The timing chain or belt will throw cause P0019 to throw. This will happen when it has stretched or jumped a tooth or two. If it jumps more than a few teeth, the odds are that the engine itself will not run at all.

If you’ve recently changed the timing chain, it may very well have not been aligned properly on install. Many manufacturers (particularly Japanese Automakers) have very strict timing chain service intervals. If it’s been too long, it may jump a few teeth. Even the slightest misalignment can cause P0019.

Timing Chain Jumped Symptoms and Diagnosis

4. Crank or Cam Tone/Reluctor Ring

The Crankshaft Sensor is going to use a tone or reluctor ring to determine the position of the Crank. This ring uses notches that are scanned by the Crank Sensor in order to get an accurate position.

If this ring fails, the Journey will not be able to get an exact crank position. The camshaft typically will have a ring that provides the same function.

Often when a reluctor ring goes bad, it’ll rattle quite a lot. That is a very good indication that there is an issue with it.

Here’s a good video on diagnosing P0019:

Good luck diagnosing P0019 in the Dodge Journey. If there is anything you would like to add that could help; the next person reading this article, please leave a comment below.