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Asheville’s Burial Beer Relaunches Forestry Camp Restaurant

New menu, new look, and new systems

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It’s a safe bet that in the early 1930’s, when the U.S. government’s Civilian Conservation Corps constructed six wood-frame buildings on two-acres of land three miles from downtown Asheville to house the men working on the Blue Ridge Parkway, they never imagined the property would one day be the multi-purpose campus of one of the city’s most successful breweries. Yet when Jess and Doug Reiser and Tim Gormley – the trio who in 2013 planted Burial Beer ’s stake in Asheville’s South Slope brewery district — sought to expand brewing operations in 2016, that’s exactly what they envisioned for the rustic site that had sat dormant since 1942.

They got the new site rolling by installing a new 20-barrel system in one building to increase annual production; the other buildings have since been restored for offices, the wild and sour barrelhouse, Visuals Winery, and the grain warehouse.

After an extensive renovation, the two-story Forestry Camp restaurant launched in fall 2019 — a casual taproom on the first floor, a full-service, reservations-recommended restaurant on the second. Brian Canipelli, chef/owner of Cucina 24 , created a Basque menu that Camp owners felt expressed their vision, “That cuisine has a very communal focus which resonated with how we focus on collaborations and communal experience,” explains Burial’s brand director Chris McClure. “It’s a world we really love, it facilitated a lot of exploration and with a culinary profile that utilized the same value and qualities as our beverages.”

As such, Canipelli’s opening repertory had grilled gernika peppers simply seasoned with flaky sea salt, olive oil and lemon; chorizo sausage links with roasted potatoes and grilled whole trout filled with pickled onion, sliced roasted chilis and mounds of glistening roe.

In mid-March 2020, COVID closed the world, including Forestry Camp. “We only had six months of runway when COVID hit. It takes time to build a following for a restaurant and we just didn’t have that time before COVID,” McClure says.

Forestry Camp rode the pandemic coaster for the next two years, doing all the pivots. “We utilized that time to figure out what consumers – locals and tourists — want in an overall experience. We have basically been doing R&D the past two years, with a culinary staff that knows the brand and what our customers want and put together an awesome menu. We survive and thrive on innovation.”

The Forestry Camp property closed to the public in January for a re-imaging of the space and service model; for long-time partner Victor Hernandez to work his magic on constructing permanent outdoor gathering places; and for executive chef Mike Achberger to finalize a new menu.

All was revealed February 5 with the official reopening of Forestry Camp Taproom + Kitchen. Downstairs is the taproom, furnished with the familiar polished beer hall style tables and benches made from hard pine harvested on the grounds. The redesigned second floor has contemporary chairs and banquette window seats around smaller tables and a cozy lounge area set with plush velvet sofas and upholstered armchairs.

The new system asks everyone to open a tab at the bar downstairs. If the intent is to remain in the tap room, order food and beverages at the bar as well; If dining upstairs, servers will take and deliver orders there. Achberger’s menu of small plates, sandwiches and a quartet of entrees leans deeply into local growers and providers.

Get out of the avocado toast rut and try his chicken liver mousse toast with embered almond, apple gelee and truffle powder. Smoked meat croquettes with house mustard and cornichons and smoked fish with crispy potatoes have glimmers of the Basque menu. The seasonal root vegetable gratin with barley and the half chicken with barbecue red peas, couche-couche (cornmeal hash), and wilted bitter greens remain close to the region.

Weekend visitors who want to lean deeply into the Burial Beer experience can purchase a ticket for the new 90-minute guided walking tour of the property and buildings, finishing with a seated food/beer/wine pairing in the taproom.

“The vision for Forestry Camp has always been to showcase the Burial world,” says McClure. “With the reopening, the relationships we built within the craft beer and wine industry and the local community of growers, makers, builders and artists are all under one roof.”

Forestry Camp is at 16 Shady Oak Lane, Asheville. Burial Beer also has a tap room and bottle shop in Raleigh, and soon- to- open tap room in Charlotte’s Plaza Midwood neighborhood.

• Burial Beer [Official] • Forestry Camp [Official]

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Home | Food & Drinks | Breweries | Burial Beer Co. – Forestry Camp

Everything to know about

Burial beer co. – forestry camp.

10 Shady Oak Drive | Asheville, NC

Located near Biltmore Village

About Burial Beer Co. – Forestry Camp

Burial’s Forestry Camp is one of the most interesting breweries in town . It’s located in a former camp that housed Civilian Conservation Corps Workers. The setting and buildings, full of the warmth of old wood, bring a sense of nostalgia to your beer-drinking experience.

As far as beer goes, Burial is one of the top craft brewers in Asheville , consistently cranking out delicious, unique and creative beers in their death-themed style.

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USA TODAY 10Best

Go behind the stills on the 10 best brewery tours in the country

Best Brewery Tour (2024) March 8, 2024

The only thing better than sipping a pint of your favorite brew is getting a behind-the-scenes look at where it's made. To determine which breweries offer the best tour experiences, we asked a panel of beer experts to nominate their top brewery tours across the country. Then, our readers voted for their favorites. Here are the 10 best brewery tours in the United States.

No. 10: Samuel Adams - Boston, Massachusetts

Samuel Adams has long been a giant in the Boston beer scene, and visitors are invited to learn more about the history of the company and its famous Boston lager during 45-minute tours of the brewery. Other themed tours focus on cheese pairings and research and development.

No. 9: Stone Brewing - Escondido, California and Richmond, Virginia

San Diego's king of craft beer offers public tours of its Escondido, California, and Richmond, Virginia, production facilities. Beer experts lead visitors through the brewing facility and packaging hall while offering insight into the science of brewing and craft beer culture. Tours end with a tasting and include a souvenir glass.

No. 8: New Belgium Brewing Company - Fort Collins, Colorado & Asheville, North Carolina

Visitors to the New Belgium facilities in both Fort Collins and Asheville are in for a treat. Tours that last 90 minutes include beer sampling as well as stories of the brewery's history and a look at the facilities. After the tour, guests are invited to enjoy beers in the tasting room or grab a bite to eat from a rotating list of visiting food trucks. Free 45-minute Tour Teasers are also available, which include a tour of the Brewhouse and one beer sample.

No. 7: Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. - Chico, California and Mills River, North Carolina

Sierra Nevada beer fans have the opportunity to tour brewing facilities in either North Carolina or California. During each 45- to 60-minute interactive tour, visitors trace the process from grain to bottle. Smell whole-cone hops, sample sugary wort, and finish with a guided tasting of Sierra Nevada beers. Beer Geek, Beyond the Pale, and other tours go further in depth.

No. 6: Bell's Brewery - Comstock, Michigan

Bell’s Brewery, one of the oldest craft breweries east of Colorado, started out with a 15-gallon soup pot in 1985. Today, visitors can tour the facilities at both the Comstock and Kalamazoo locations to learn more about the processes of brewing, fermentation, and packaging. Tours include complimentary samples.

No. 5: Spoetzl Brewery - Shiner, Texas

Spoetzl Brewery, the pride of Shiner, Texas, dates back to the early 1900s. Those who take the 45-minute brewery tour will be introduced to the history of Spoetzl, learn about the impact its success has had on the town of Shiner, and have the opportunity to witness the brewing process up close. Tour packages start at $25 per person over 21 years old and include complimentary pours of Shiner beer. 

No. 4: Dogfish Head Craft Brewery - Milton, Delaware

The first-come, first-served $5 tours of Dogfish Head Craft Brewery offer a laid-back journey through the working brewhouse for a chance to watch the magic happen. For beer lovers, Off-Centered tours go into the brewhouse, rackhouse, and R&D system, with stops for tastings along the way.

No. 3: Burial Beer Co. Forestry Camp - Asheville, North Carolina

Burial Beer Co. gives its tour-takers the chance to bring along a guest for free, if they're the designated driver. Of course, they won't get the free samples that everyone else does, but they will get the lowdown on the Asheville brewing scene and the history of Burial during this 1-hour experience. 

No. 2: Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Co. - Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin

Visitors to this Chippewa Falls brewery have a few options for tours. The hour-long Legacy Tour covers the 150-plus-year history of Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Co., with a stroll through the modern facilities and a visit to the Leinie Lodge. Or spend 90 minutes on a tour with the master brewer, 30 minutes exploring the Leinie Lodge Pilot Brewery, or 90 minutes learning about the history of the brewery and Chippewa Falls.

No. 1: Tröegs Independent Brewing - Hershey, Pennsylvania

Visitors to Hershey can enjoy a 1-hour guided production tour at Tröegs Independent Brewing. The experience includes a behind-the-scenes look at the mill room, hop cooler, brewhouse deck, fermentation cellars, and packaging lines. A welcome beer kicks off the exploration and three more samples are included.

About 10Best Readers' Choice Awards

Nominees are submitted by a panel of experts. 10Best editors narrow the field to select the final set of nominees for the Readers’ Choice Awards. Readers can vote once per category, per day. For any questions or comments, please read the FAQ or email USA TODAY 10Best .

The Experts

Dennis malcolm "ale" sharpton.

Dennis Malcolm Byron aka Ale Sharpton is a...   Read More

Dennis Malcolm Byron aka Ale Sharpton is a world-renowned beer authority, award-winning journalist, blogger ( AleSharpton.com ), photographer, event planner, host, speaker and beer judge to name a few of his roles. While passionately traveling the globe to cover everything from automobiles to culinary scenes, celebrity profiles, sports, hotel destinations, art, and what he terms “the world’s best beverage,” Ale has contributed to more than 30 magazines and websites combined. His current media outlets include USAToday , Thrillist.com , Craft Beer & Brewing , CraftBeer.com , Theinfatuation.com , ButterATL.com , James Beard Foundation , Atlanta Magazine , and others. Along with being featured in various publications, on the web, radio, podcasts, television, beer fests, conferences, and ongoing Cruisin’ For A Brewsin’ video series, Ale utilizes his Cornell University School of Hotel Administration education and vast work experience to consult in the culinary industry as well. Forbes , Smithsonian Institution, UNTAPPD, Good Beer Hunting , and numerous others have showcased Ale’s accomplishments. In a collaboration going on six years with brewing giant New Belgium, Ale has produced a beer he conceptualized called Piano Keys—a chocolate vanilla imperial stout—geared to support diversity and racial equality. This project with New Belgium also spawned his initiative, BrewGether , which raises funds to support nonprofits embracing the same mission as Piano Keys.  Ale proudly owns AllWays Open Creative Solutions, an agency specializing in creative direction, logo design, branding, web design, video production, photography, consulting, and social media. Although a native New Yorker, Ale proudly calls Atlanta his home. Follow Ale’s globetrotting adventures on his captivating Instagram ( @realalesharpton ).

Gary Monterosso

Gary Monterosso is an award-winning critic, who...   Read More

Gary Monterosso is an award-winning critic, who has written for national and regional publications. He is a regular guest on “You Oughta Know,” on WHYY-TV, a PBS station based in Philadelphia. Gary also hosts one-minute beverage updates on several southern NJ radio stations. From 2010-2017, he was seen on the History Channel show called “The Epic History of Everyday Things.” He is the author of the book, “Artisan Beers.” After a 41-year career as a NJ- based educator, Gary now teaches beer appreciation classes at Wilmington University. Gary has appeared on many television programs discussing craft beers and has guested on BBC radio offering an American perspective on the beverage. In late 2014, he lent his expertise to CBS News New York, by offering fall beer recommendations. One of the highlights of his career was a three-year stint on the Sirius Satellite Radio network, talking about the latest happenings in the beer world. In 2014, Gary was selected by Chilled Magazine to be a member of the “Chilled 100,” signifying him as one of the top 100 beverage personalities in the United States. He continues to be a fixture at regional beer events by hosting dinners and tasting seminars. He has qualified as a Certified Beer Server, a part of the Cicerone Certification Program, recognizing his knowledge of beer styles, culture, the brewing process and ingredients.

Jackie Dodd Mallory

Jackie Dodd-Mallory is a beer and food writer and...   Read More

Jackie Dodd-Mallory is a beer and food writer and photographer based in Seattle. She is the author of three best-selling cooking with beer cookbooks and the owner of  craftbeerphotography.com  you can find her on social media @TheBeeroness.

Dr. Mike Arra is the CBO (Chief Beer Officer) and...   Read More

Dr. Mike Arra is the CBO (Chief Beer Officer) and logistics guru of Bon Beer Voyage , an award-winning beer tour company for Belgian and Craft Beer Enthusiasts. Bon Beer Voyage was created by Mike and his wife, Ruth Berman, as the beer geek’s answer to wine snob tours- without the snob part.  They offer higher quality, small group, gourmet beer vacations (Beercations) both in the US and abroad; providing their guests with one-of-kind-experiences, sightseeing, great food, brewery insider visits and beer tastings. Mike is the head beer instructor for Bon Beer Voyage’s virtual and in-person beer tasting classes, sharing tastings and pairings with beer lovers from all over the world. Designer of the coveted Beercation app brewery and bar maps that are shared with Bon Beer Voyage’s Beercation guests,  he also serves as the beer guide for their Beercation beer hunting sessions. 

10Best Editors

USA TODAY 10Best provides users with original,...   Read More

USA TODAY 10Best provides users with original, unbiased and experiential travel coverage of top attractions, things to see and do, and restaurants for top destinations in the U.S. and around the world.

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City Brew Tours - Asheville

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Asheville, NC 28801

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About the business.

Spend the day with City Brew Tours Asheville as we sample our way through the city, along a journey filled with craft breweries, artisan beers and delicious food. Each tour includes a tasting and an in-depth analysis of up to 16 different beers, food, and round-trip transportation. On behalf of everyone at City Brew Tours Asheville, drink local and get beer-educated with us. Whether you're planning for a birthday, bachelor party, bachelorette party, or you're just looking to learn more about beer, City Brew Tours Asheville is your perfect choice! …

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Sam was our tour guide yesterday, 4/27/24. He was very knowledgeable about the beer brewing process, friendly and we had a great time. We will certainly take another tour the next time we are in town. Would highly recommend this tour.

Loaded with beer history and great beers. 3 stops, 3 beers each. Lots of information in addition to drinks. Thanks, Sam! So much fun.

very knowledgeable tour guide who knows the history and the craft of brewing. He was great at keeping on schedule

Spectacular day in Asheville and the brew tour didn't disappoint. Sam was our guide and did a fantastic job. First stop was Archetype. Enjoyed the beer options, some tips on how to evaluate a beer and a quick lesson on the beer making process. Only thing missing was the brewery vibe. We were the only ones there. Second stop was Green Man Brewing and loved this! We sat outside and tried a variety of beers - lager, porter, a cherry flavored something and 1 other I can't recall. Enjoyed the history of the place while there. Last stop was New Origin. Sat inside but the brewery has an open air concept. Everything inside the brewery was done by the owner and has a unique "kitchen" vide to it. Definitely fav with the beer options - iPA, two kinds of bubble beer (tasted like pins coladas) and something else. The wood fire pizzas were delicious! The group on the tour included a newlywed couple, 2 others celebrating anniversaries, 4 of us just out for the wknd and a few guys from Peru! Really fun group! Only drawbacks - the van was tight with all of us in there. Good thing we didn't have to drive far for any of the venues. And, we wanted to go to HiWire as a fab in our crowd, but that got changed mid-tour. Found out later they were hosting a wedding there. Overall, great way to spend a Sat afternoon and let someone else do the driving.

We had a great time with Sam - I would highly recommend this tour - outsider was the best brewery - I wish I could go there every day with Sam

Sam did a fantastic job for our group of 6 last night. I don't prefer beer generally and he managed to find several I enjoyed. It was fun to learn a bit about the detailed brewing process as well.

Really enjoyed Sam, the Beer Guide! Great choice of breweries, ordered us an amazing lunch and did a great job sharing knowledge! Went to 2 breweries off the beaten path , 1 funky brewery and 1 OG Asheville brewery!

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Business Owner

Jun 24, 2023

Hi there, I'm thrilled to hear that you had such a fantastic experience with Sam! It sounds like he curated an excellent selection of beers for you, he really is a pro at his job. Sam's wealth of knowledge knows no bounds. Cheers to a memorable beer tour!

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Jess Reiser & Tim Gormley

Jess Reiser and her business partners don't waste time: Within six months of arriving in Asheville, they created a brewery, Burial Beer. "It still feels surreal sometimes when I walk around our place and see people drinking our beer," she says.

They had left Seattle and its strong craft beer market for a town with a friendlier feel. "We wanted to be part of a place that has a true community, where people get excited about what other people are doing," she explains.

With so many Asheville breweries nearby (34 in all including Burial!), Jess discovered a supportive network within her industry. She says that camaraderie is what distinguishes Asheville from larger cities where breweries feel less personal. "The drive behind why people make beer here is so genuine it shows not just in the product but in the beer drinker's experience while they're in Asheville," she says. "People here are really committed to the city. You don't even have to be a beer drinker to enjoy that. Visitors leave with a rich experience, and the people you meet here make that."

A visit to the Burial Beer tap room, located near several other breweries in the up-and-coming South Slope neighborhood, offers a sense of discovery with its small-batch beers and "secret hideaway" setting. "We like to take traditional beers and put a modern twist on them," Jess explains.

Jess Reiser & Tim Gormley | Burial Beer Co.

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A milestone such as 10 years of existence can cause you to reflect upon your biggest victories and most formidable challenges. An exercise in understanding what makes you truly tick. So in this second decade, we seek uninvention as a method to cut through the noise and express our bare core. We invite you to do the same.

So join us on Saturday, June 15th for a celebration of what Burial does best. Introspective beverages enjoyed amongst cherished company and some damn fine tunes to set the mood.

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Asheville, WNC communities earn multiple 10Best Readers' Choice Awards for beer, breweries

ASHEVILLE - Access to some of the best brews, breweries and beer bars in the industry is easy when in Western North Carolina.

10Best, a media component of USA TODAY, polled the public in several categories in its Readers' Choice Awards to find out their favorite beer-centric destinations in the U.S.

On March 8, the Top 10 results were announced, and Asheville and the greater WNC shined in multiple areas for their outstanding beer scenes.

On the list of Best Beer Cities in the U.S. , Asheville ranked No. 8.

“The ‘Paris of the South’ offers an impressive number of breweries, friendly beer bars, and bottle shops (Appalachian Vintner) that provide enthusiasts with easy access to more than 100 local beers,” the article stated.

Also, Wicked Weed Brewing’s brewpub and Funkatorium taproom, which specializes in sour and funky beers, were mentioned as popular destinations.

Three local breweries came in on top for the Best Brewery Tour .

New Belgium Brewing Co., which has locations in Asheville and Fort Collins, Colorado, is ranked No. 8. The Asheville brewery, in the River Arts District, offers several free and ticketed experiences ranging from standard to in-depth educational tours.

Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., which has breweries in Mills River and Chico, California, ranked No. 7 for its interactive tours. The Mills River brewery offers various experiences daily for $9-$75, including a three-hour Beer Geek Tour.

Burial Beer Co.’s Forestry Camp ranked No. 3 for its 60-minute tour, which costs $35 per person and is offered on Saturdays and Sundays by reservation.

The Asheville-founded brewery also has a taproom in the South Slope brewing district.

The Whale was ranked No. 4 for Best Beer Bar . The Asheville-founded business has locations in West Asheville and Haw Creek, as well as in Greenville and Charleston, South Carolina. The Whale offers rare and limited-edition brews, and the option to request a “wild card” that allows the bartender to choose guests’ drinks of “something you have never seen or heard of, but are glad you discovered.”

New Origin Brewery was named a rising star and ranked No. 9 for Best New Brewery . New Origin was praised for its dog and kid-friendly taproom and outdoor beer garden and a menu that ranges from New England IPAs to hard seltzers, as well as its resident food truck partner, 900 Degreez Pizza.

A short drive from Asheville, a mountain town was named among readers’ favorite “captivating brew havens.”

Bryson City ranked No. 7 for Best Small Town Beer Scene , hailed for its outdoor and beer offered at several popular beer destinations in a walkable area.

“In addition to Mountain Layers Brewing Company, beer lovers should be sure to visit Bryson City Outdoors, where they'll likely find a food truck to pair with the BCO taproom's well-curated selection of local and regional craft beers,” the article stated.

View the full lists and vote in the latest 10Best Readers’ Choice Awards polls at https://10best.usatoday.com/awards/travel/ .

Stories we may have missed:

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Tiana Kennell is the food and dining reporter for the Asheville Citizen Times, part of the USA Today Network. Email her at [email protected] or follow her on Instagram @PrincessOfPage. Please support this type of journalism with a subscription to the Citizen Times .

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17 April 2024

The long-awaited event for residents and guests of the city - the beginning of navigation in St. Petersburg! This year navigation will start on the 27th of April. It means that from the 27th of April it will be possible to enjoy excursions along the rivers and canals of the city again.

22 March 2024

MIR Travel Company will tell you where and how to get there! The excursion is called the Golden Ring of Russia and passes through several Old Russian cities. The route itself was developed in 1967 with the inclusion of 8 cities: Sergiev Posad, Pereslavl-Zalessky, Rostov the Great, Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Ivanovo, Suzdal and Vladimir. 

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MASTERPIECES OF RUSSIAN AVANT-GARDE (Tretyakov Gallery on Krymsky Val)

The Tretiakov Gallery’s building on Krymsky Val houses the only permanent exhibition of 20th century Russian art in the country. It displays works of Russian avant-garde masters such as K.Malevich, V.Kandinsky, M.Chagall, P.Filonov. This collection was later extended by paintings of the Socialist Realism of the period 1930s-1950s. The works of artists of the «Severe Style» from the 1960s are shown together with the «underground» art, which started the «second wave» of Russian avant-garde. Then the exhibition was completed by works of the 1980s-1990s and now, in accordance with the idea of the founder, the collection is constantly updated with the latest and most topical works of Russian artists.

HOUSE OF THE BOYARS ROMANOV

Zaryadye - that's how in the old days was called the central part of Moscow located "behind the ranks" (in Russian "za ryadami") of market shops adjacent to the Kremlin. The house of the boyars Romanov is the only building that remains today from that large estate. In the middle of the 20th century, most of the Zaryadye district was demolished, and nowadays in the whole old quarter there are only several buildings along the Varvarka street. However, this small area of Moscow is truly unique in its kind and is an authentic museum of ancient Russian outdoor architecture of the XVI-XVIII centuries. Now the house of the Boyars Romanov is a museum of the daily life of ancient Russia.

FOLK SHOW KOSTROMA

From mid June till mid September  Each summer world famous folk-dance ensemble Kostroma presents its show in Moscow. The plot of the show is the history of Russia from old times to the present moment and the multicultural traditions of our country, presented in national dances and songs. Around 50 artists, colourful sets, beautiful costumes make the show unforgettable.

Duration of the show — 2 h. (Guide’s assistance – only one way)

GASTRONOMIC TOUR

Prices and availability are subject to reconfirmation at the time of booking!

The final program and cost might suffer changes due to sanitary requirements and protocols that will apply at the time of your guests' arrival in Russia (such as: group size restrictions on museum visits and transportation, restrictions on restaurants’ operations etc.).

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An introductory guide to Moscow graveyards

A tombstone at the historic Vvedenskoye Cemetery in Moscow. Source: Ricardo Marquina

Moscow’s more than 10 million residents are living closer to the deceased than they might realize. Underneath the sprawl of the Russian capital’s urban development lie hundreds of buried cemeteries and graves, built over and nearly forgotten as Moscow emerges as one of the largest cities in Europe. 

During the demolition of a tram line near Simonov monastery south of city center, workers uncovered hundreds of headstones with names and epitaphs carved into the underbelly of the pavement pieces. As it turns out, when the line was being constructed in the 1930s, the territory of nearby monastery’s graveyard had been turned into a construction site for the ZIL motor plant, so the grubbed-up, solid headstones were used for street paving. Same thing is true for some of Moscow’s peripheral subway stations, where trimmed former headstones were used as marble coating of walls and columns. 

IN PICTURES: A spooky Halloween tour beyond the grave

For Russians, the local graveyard has always been an important location in every village and town. Traditionally, every man wanted to be buried near his home church. Moscow, which had more than 400 churches, was laden with graveyards:  In the 19th century, there were more than 300 graveyards, most of which were demolished in first decades of the Soviet Union.

Today, Moscow has only 71 graveyards and cemeteries, but a great number of parks and buildings are situated on former burial grounds, a fact which many city residents do not realize.

Graveyards inside the Kremlin walls were one of the first to appear in Moscow. After the 14 th  century, princes and then czars were buried in vaults in Arkhangelsky cathedral. But the Soviets in 1917 built an “alternative” burial ground outside the Kremln’s brick walls, where they laid to rest their Bolsheviks comrades who had fallen during the October revolution in Moscow. In 1924, the Lenin Mausoleum became the center of the cemetery. Stalin was kept in the mausoleum after his death in 1953, but moved in 1961 to a grave near the wall. Debates persist in Russian society today on the subject of whether the cemetery should be removed from the Red Square.

During the liquidation of the graveyards inside the city, ashes of many writers, military commanders and revolutionaries were transferred to the new cemetery near the Novodevichy monastery. This fate befell the remains of the great writer Nikolay Gogol . Deceased in 1852, he was buried in Danilovsky monastery, but in 1931, while the graveyard was being liquidated, the government ordered to reinter Gogol on Novodevichy graveyard.

Discovering Gothic Moscow : A tour of architectural masterpieces

Some contemporary writers, who were present at the exhumation site, were awed when the coffin was opened – the late great writer’s head was missing. This didn’t, however, perplex the writers: It is reported that a now-forgotten writer, Lidin, even dared to take a cut from Gogol’s frock, which was later was used for binding of a lifetime edition of Gogol’s “Dead Souls” that Lidin possessed.

Gogol’s  ashes were reinterred nonetheless, but where did the head go? Rumor has it that in 1909, when Gogol’s grave was renovated, Alexey Bakhrushin, a famous Moscow merchant and eccentric, bribed monks of Danilovsky monastery and retrieved the writer’s head to store it in his museum. Since then, the trace of Gogol’s skull has been completely lost.

Meanwhile, the mentioned copy of “Dead Souls” is reportedly in possession of Lidin’s daughter.

The new Novodevichy cemetery became the burial ground for most of the Soviet Union’s elite - in Soviet times, entrance was allowed only to relatives of the deceased, who had special passes. Today it’s free of charge. Still, the price for burial in the cemetery is very high. It is also expensive to be buried in the famous Vagankovskoe graveyard, the last home for many actors, painters, and bohemians.

In fact, overall,  most of the old graveyards inside the city borders come with expensive fees for burial plots. Among the most expensive is the Vvedenskoe graveyard in Lefortovo, the former territory of the German Quarter of Moscow, which was organized in the 17 th  century for foreign residents of the city. Today, it is possibly the quietest and most beautiful graveyard in Moscow and contains some spectacular architecture. Among the prominent monuments is the vault of G. Lion, with a mosaic reproduction of Arnold Bocklin’s “Isle of The Dead,” and the Erlanger family vault, designed by Russian architect F. Schechtel, the master of art nouveau. The walls of the vault contain scribbled messages to God from locals, such as “Lord, help me to get a job. Vladimir,”  “Lord, give me strength to get B in descriptive geometry,” and so on. The inscriptions are regularly washed off to appear again.

But the messages are not the only strange Russian graveyard tradition.

Russian people frequently have picnics on their ancestor’s graves. In the Czarist times, particularly on big holidays, Muscovites went to the graveyard with baskets of food and samovars to make memorial feasts. These often turned into drinking sprees.

In Soviet times, the tradition received an unexpected boost. When drinking in the street was banned, many people began using graveyards just to drink. If stopped by the police, the drinkers had a ready excuse: “We are commemorating our late friend.” The police, aware of the tradition, would let the winos be. The tradition is the main reason Russian graves today are equipped with benches.

On a fair day, isolate a few hours and take a walk along the curved alleys of Moscow’s graveyards, among the diverse vaults and headstones bearing names of those people whose lives were once also a part of this city’s history. You won’t be bothered by crowds of sightseers – for them, Moscow graveyards are still an uncharted territory.

All rights reserved by Rossiyskaya Gazeta.

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Books | History of Denver’s parks, cemeteries, suburbs…

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Books | history of denver’s parks, cemeteries, suburbs are the topic of new books.

This month, several Denver-area histories serve as summer tour guides.

“The Scenic History of Denver Cemeteries: From Cheesman Park to Riverside,” by Phil Goodstein (New Social Publications)

Of the first dozen people buried in Mount Prospect, Denver’s first cemetery, two were hanged for murder, five died from gunshot wounds, and one committed suicide.  No wonder the early city fathers wanted the graveyard to be far from the city center.

Mount Prospect was expanded to include a Jewish section. Areas were set aside for Catholics, Asians and Blacks. As Denver expanded, residents objected to a cemetery so close to houses, and the bodies were moved. The low bidder on the removal project ($1 per grave) found his costs were high and divided bodies — a head in one coffin, a legbone in another — to defraud the city.  He abandoned the project and many graves remained.  Today, outlines of those abandoned graves can be seen when a dusting of snow covers Mount Prospect, now Cheesman Park.

As Mount Prospect declined, Riverside sprang up as Denver’s go-to cemetery. The names on graves there are a history of early Denver. Tabor, Cheesman, Hallack/Steck, Zang, Barth, Sopris. Phil Goodstein, known for his meticulous research, tells the stories of many of them in this first volume of a trilogy on Denver cemeteries. Along with brief biographies of the famous and infamous of Denver dead, Goodstein relates the history of the earliest Denver cemeteries and their fates. Even better, Goodstein includes directions to various gravesites.

“Discovering Denver Parks,” by Chris Englert (Mountaineers Books)

Who knew there were so many parks in Denver?  Most of us are aware of City Park and Cheesman, Overland and Civic Center, but Mamie Doud Eisenhower Park and Madame C.J. Walker Park?

In fact, there are 150 parks in Denver, plus another dozen Denver mountain parks. Chris Englert details every one of them in a pocketsize “Discovering Denver Parks.”

One reason Denver has so many parks is Mayor Robert Speer. He wanted Denver to look like Paris, so he launched a system of parks and parkways. They range from sprawling Washington Park to tiny Sonny Lawson Park, named for Five Points’ first druggist, who operated the Radio Pharmacy.

The guidebook, which lists the locations, history and amenities of each park, is a handy reference for exploring the city.

“Cherry Hills Village,” by Dino G. Maniatis (Arcadia Publishing)

“The present country club is no longer in the country. It’s almost in the heart of town,’ complained a member of a local club, probably the Denver Country Club. “There are too many members and the golf links are overcrowded,” complained another.

And so Cherry Hills Country Club was formed and around it one of Denver’s most exclusive neighborhoods. Regulations in what became Cherry Hills Village forbid commercial development and kept out urban sprawl.

Founders and residents of early Cherry Hills read like a list of Denver’s who’s who: Grant, Gano, Buell, Shafroth, Blackmer, Koelbel. And later, musical comedy star Ethel Merman, who was married to Continental Airlines CEO Robert Six.

Dino G. Maniatis tells Cherry Hills history from its beginning as farmland (including Rufus Clark’s potato patch) to the present day, where true to the founders’ intentions, urban detritus is still kept out.

“Northglenn,” by Elizabeth Moreland Candelario (Arcadia Publishing)

Northglenn, a sprawling suburb of middle-class homes, commerce and 39,000 residents, is just the kind of development that Cherry Hills wanted to keep at bay. While Cherry Hills may turn up its nose at Northglenn, Life magazine once called it “the most perfectly planned community in America.”

Thanks to its foresighted developers, thousands of Coloradans could afford to own homes in Northglenn, where prices in 1959 began at $11,600. Families today live in a self-contained community of parks, churches, schools and commercial development.

In “Northglenn,” Elizabeth Moreland Candelario puts together a series of then-and now pictures, including churches, schools, homes, commercial developments, parks and recreation facilities and streetscapes that show how the community thrived and grew.

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