guardian travel scotland highlands

Sustainable Scotland: the low-carbon road to the Highlands

A wilderness break in the Highlands offers eco-friendly accommodation and travel, and visits to projects promoting regenerative farming and reforestation

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The sky’s a hazy grey as the sun starts to rise, just visible behind the dense low-hanging cloud. We slide slowly – though not silently – into mirror-smooth Loch Ossian. Reflections of bare-branched trees ripple, a bird of prey hovers on the horizon. It doesn’t get much wilder than this; a full immersion into the elemental Highlands.

We’re staying at the Loch Ossian youth hostel at the water’s edge, one of the most remote in the UK. Off-grid, with no vehicle access and sleeping 20 in two bunkrooms, it’s a place to truly escape from the world (and we have it all to ourselves). Old black-and-white photos of early female mountaineers hang on the walls; our damp hiking gear dries on racks by the fire; at night the pitch-black sky twinkles with countless stars.

I’m here with Wilderness Scotland on a trip to test “how low can you go?” when it comes to low-impact, low-carbon travel. On our three-day itinerary we’ll explore by foot, e-bike and electric vehicles, visiting rewilding projects and learning about the landscape and people working to protect it, too.

“This is how the future of travel could look: treading lightly and encouraging connection to the land,” says Wilderness Scotland’s Ben Thorburn, one of our guides for the weekend. “On a trip like this, your carbon impact could be less than if you stayed at home.” Last year, in partnership with consultancy eCollective, the company undertook a complete carbon audit of more than 300 suppliers to calculate the carbon cost of every holiday offered. It’s a step towards their goal of becoming true net zero by 2030 and reducing carbon emissions by 90% in that time. As well as cutting emissions as much as possible, they buy reputable offset credits and plant trees to sequester more carbon and restore habitats. Customers can also opt into plant additional trees.

Our trip starts on the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Inverness (a fraction of emissions compared with flying). It’s still dark when I wake and peer out from my cabin, the landscape slowly coming into focus as we pull closer to the station.

An electric car awaits – the company is working to replace all vans with electric vehicles – and we glide across the Cairngorms national park to our first stop, Lynbreck Croft near Grantown-on-Spey. Lynn Cassells and Sandra Baer bought the 150-acre croft back in 2016 with little money, no plan and no farming experience, just a craving for a wilder life.

We tour the site, learning of the challenges and rewards of farming in symbiosis with nature – and the determination needed to succeed. Polytunnels brim with produce, Highland cattle and rare breed pigs roam and Lynn talks about the importance of soil health. As well as selling their produce, they run tours and workshops for those wanting to learn more about smallholdings and regenerative farming. We picnic in the autumn sunshine with views of the Cairngorms on the horizon, not wanting to leave.

Visits to local sustainable businesses feature on many Wilderness itineraries and that evening – after a hike along the Speyside Way from Boat of Garten to Aviemore – we head to Inshriach estate and distillery, where Walter Micklethwait makes small-batch craft gin using wild juniper berries and locally picked ingredients. Hidden in the woods, the bar combines a wild west saloon with speakeasy vibe; the cocktails and magical setting make for a fun evening before we return to Aviemore for dinner and our B&B.

Loch Ossian, on the Corrour estate, can only be reached on foot or by bike so the next morning our e-bikes are delivered to the roadside near Moy Lodge and we saddle up to cycle the 15 miles to the hostel. They make easy work of climbs through woodlands and open tracks across Rannoch Moor. The autumnal palette of rust and gold, splashed with waterfalls and gushing rivers, stands out against a steely sky. On the top of the hillside a red stag appears, perfectly silhouetted, and grouse fly up from the grass. It begins to rain heavily, but nothing can dull the glory of the landscape.

We arrive at the hostel dripping but happy – and before bed there’s one last foray in the dark to the Corrour Station House Restaurant , where the venison comes from the estate. This is the highest railway station in the UK and the next day we board the West Highland Line (recently equipped with a dedicated bike carriage) for the picturesque ride to Spean Bridge.

One of Wilderness Scotland’s partners is Trees for Life , which is working to rewild the Highlands and restore the Caledonian Forest. Before our train back home we visit the flagship Dundreggan estate – where the UK’s first rewilding centre will open in March. We tour the tree nurseries and walk through the beech forests, learning where natural regeneration works and where reforestation is needed.

It’s an interesting end to a whirlwind long weekend that has shown how travel can educate, excite and be fun, with minimal impact on the planet. Carbon emissions for a trip such as ours would be around 38kg a person for three days (including everything from accommodation to food, but not the train up), says Ben, when the average CO2 a person a day in the UK is 15kg. Not all itineraries can have such a light footprint, of course, but it’s an inspiring step in the right direction.

The trip was provided by Wilderness Scotland , wh ich offers a range of low-carbon guided and self-guided holidays that incorporate sustainable accommodation and experiences. Prices on the Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston to Inverness or Aviemore start from £55 for a seat, classic rooms from £ 205 for two, Club rooms from £255 for two

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Image: Buachaille Etive Mor and Buachaille Etive Beag seen from Glen Etive

The Highlands

The Scottish Highlands is really the Scotland of your imagination and the perfect backdrop for your next adventure. It's no wonder that it was named as one of National Geographic's "Best of the World" destinations in 2023. Explore the mysterious Loch Ness, pass through the striking Cairngorms National Park, walk up Britain's highest peak, Ben Nevis, or discover the rugged coastline of Caithness.

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Things to do in the Highlands

Slow down and take the time to engage with the Scottish Highlands. Between city, countryside and coast, the Highlands offers plenty of things to see and do.

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Inspiration for Highland breaks

Wherever you choose to stay in the Highlands, you'll find stunning hotels, trendy hostels, comfy B&Bs and a whole range of unique self-catering accommodation. 

The Torridon, a luxury estate retreat in Wester Ross

Places to Stay

Check out these handpicked locations for your next holiday in the Highlands.

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North West Highlands Geopark

Follow one of the Pebble Routes through the North West Highlands Geopark.

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The routes provide a unique snapshot of the country’s rich history whilst also connecting all of Scotland's major cities.

Unique Experiences

Whether you're attending a Highland Games, sampling local whiskies or adventuring up the UK's highest mountain, let the Highlands spark your imagination. 

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Discover Ben Nevis, Scotland’s iconic peak, “the mountain with its head in the clouds”.

Map of the Highlands

Explore the highlands.

Get friendly and helpful advice for your trip at our iCentres.

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The Highlands by Area

Geodiversity, outdoor adventures, history, arts & crafts, music, food & drink - whatever it is you love, you'll find it in the Highlands.

Moray Speyside

Discover a land of natural contrasts, from the mighty Cairngorm Mountains to the rugged world-famous Moray coast.

Inverness & Loch Ness

Discover the history, experiences, people and places that surround Inverness and Loch Ness.

West Highland Peninsulas

Discover rugged mountains, stunning coastlines, beautiful lochs, historic castles and much more.

Easter Ross

A place you can reset the clock, drinking in the scenery whilst sipping a locally distilled single malt.

Fort William & Lochaber

Welcome to the outdoor capital of Scotland.

Aviemore & The Cairngorms

The UK’s largest National Park, in the Scottish Highlands, offers masses of things to do including watersports, snowsports and wildlife watching.

Nairn is a relaxing and friendly seaside town on the Moray firth.

Skye & Lochalsh

Your perfect Isle of Skye adventure awaits!

Wester Ross

Explore and stay in this beautiful area, famous for walking and hiking.

Caithness & Sutherland

Adventurers will find this region rich in unique leisure opportunities.

Travel to and around the Highlands

Getting to the highlands, getting around the highlands, bus and coach.

You can easily get to and around the Highlands using the extensive network of public transport and roads. The region may appear remote, but this beautiful part of Scotland is very accessible and is certainly worth the journey. 

For local bus services and timetables check out  Stagecoach Bus

To work out your travel plans, decide which area of the Highlands you want to visit, and you can then find information on travelling by train or other forms of transport.

Inverness is a travel hub for the Highlands, with local services to and from places such as Nairn and Elgin, or connections further afield to cities like Edinburgh and Aberdeen.

For train times and ticket information check out Scotrail

Depending on which part of the Highlands you are travelling to, local websites have up-to-date information on how to get there by car and other forms of transport. Choose a location and take a look at the one of the links below: 

Travel to Inverness, Nairn & Loch Ness  

Travel to Moray Speyside  

Travel to Skye  

Travel to North Highlands  

Travel to Fort William & Lochaber  

Travel to the Cairngorms National Park  

Travel to Ullapool and Wester Ross  

Inverness Airport is located to the east of Inverness city centre, with a short journey time to the centre by car. The airport has flights to and from destinations across Europe, including several airports in London.

It is also possible to fly to other airports in Scotland, including Edinburgh Airport and Glasgow Airport before travelling north to your destination.

Discover more about flying to Scotland

The Highlands is a beautiful place to explore on a bike. There are a number of cycle routes  to explore in the area, which provide a blend of wide open spaces, forests and woodland - along with relatively quiet roads in many locations. 

Using public transport on your trip to the Scottish Highlands is easy and accessible. 

A local bus network connects towns and villages in the region including popular places such as Inverness, Fort William and Aviemore.

Railway stations in the Highlands include Fort William, Wick, Thurso, Carrbridge and Kingussie.

You can get to most places that have rail services from Inverness train station. 

For more information, visit the Scotrail website.

The Highlands has an extensive road network including several waymarked driving routes such as the NC500  and SnowRoads Route .

Bringing your electric car? Browse charging points in the Scottish Highlands.

The A9 links Inverness to southern Scotland. Both Glasgow and Edinburgh are around 3 hours away, while the west coast of Scotland is accessible via the A86 and A82 to Fort William. The A96 links Inverness to Aberdeen on the east coast.

What's on in the Highlands

Nairn Highland Games

© Iain Fairweather

Find out about the great events happening in the Scottish Highlands, spanning from cultural exhibitions to physical challenges in stunning landscapes! 

Places to eat in the Highlands

MacGregors Bar, Inverness

Food and drink

A tip from your local expert.

Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve

Just north of the beautiful fishing village of Ullapool, Knockan Crag Visitor Centre is open year-round and promises an earth-moving experience for all. Follow the Rock Route into the North West Highlands Geopark and step back in time!

Assistant iCentre Manager, Ullapool

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Scottish Highlands and the Outer Hebrides

Highlights and Inclusions

• Explore Inverness, the gateway to the mesmerizing Scottish Highlands 
• Tour the many unforgettable places and landscapes of the Isle of Skye 
• Visit the Eilean Donan Castle, the most photographed castle in Scotland 
• Spend 2 days exploring the Outer Hebrides 
• Visit Lewis and marvel at the 5000 year old Callanish Stones  
• Discover Edinburgh’s charms, such as its medieval Old Town and Princes Street 
• Rail travel as per itinerary  
• 1 night accommodation onboard Caledonian Sleeper 
• 2 nights accommodation with breakfast in Inverness 
• 2 nights accommodation with breakfast in Stornoway 
• 2 nights accommodation with breakfast in Edinburgh 
• Skye and Eilean Donan Castle tour from Inverness 
• 3 day round trip with guide to the Outer Hebrides  
• Hop-on, hop-off sightseeing tour in Inverness 
• City tour of Edinburgh 

Your journey begins on the Caledonian Sleeper Depart London on the Caledonian Sleeper for your overnight journey to Inverness, the gateway to the Scottish Highlands. (Overnight onboard the Caledonian Sleeper)

Inverness   Boasting an abundance of culture, history, a beautiful Old Town, and the 19th-century Inverness Cathedral, this city, and the surrounding region was made for exploring. (Overnight in Inverness)

Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan Castle Tour Today's included tour features many memorable moments. You'll travel through dramatic Highland landscapes before visiting Eilean Donan Castle, known as the most photographed castle in Scotland. Then, you'll cross over into Isle of Skye, where you'll stop for a photo of the Red Cuillin Mountains. In the coastal town of Portree, you have free time to enjoy lunch and stroll the Trotternish Peninsula. Kilt Rock and the Quiraing will certainly be highlights. From there, you'll visit Kyleakin for refreshments and the chance to see Castle Moil or the Skye Bridge. (Overnight in Inverness)

Inverness to The Outer Hebrides After an early start, you travel straight from Inverness to Ullapool and catch your ferry to the islands. This stunning sea trip takes you along Loch Broom, past the Summer Isles, and out to Stornoway; the capital of the Outer Hebrides. Once you’ve arrived at Lewis, your first stop is the ancient past. You travel to the North West of the island and get the chance to visit the ‘blackhouse’ at Arnol. Dive into this traditional abode and discover how the Highland crofting families lived their day-to-day lives. Finish the day with a trip to the Butt of Lewis to admire the famous lighthouse (Overnight Stornoway)

The Outer Hebrides Today, you’re heading south to Harris. The first thing you notice about Harris is the mountains. And as you weave through the towering marvels, your guide will tell you about the traditions and tales of this part of Scotland. There are not many towns around here; but after you’ve had your fill of unspoiled beaches and landscapes, you stop in the small port of Leverburgh for lunch. Now it’s time for one of the great Hebridean highlights, Luskentyre beach. On a good day, the sea turns turquoise, and the sands look pristine white. After you’ve enjoyed all these natural wonders, it’s time to head back to Stornoway. Maybe it’s time to try the famous black pudding for dinner.  (Overnight Stornoway)

The Outer Hebrides to Inverness Retrace your steps by ferry and road to return to Inverness ahead of your journey to Edinburgh tomorrow.. (Overnight in Inverness)  

Inverness to Edinburgh Travel by direct train to Edinburgh. Settle in before setting out to explore the capital of Scotland! From the cobbled streets of the medieval Old Town to the sweeping views from the top of the many hills, there is so much beauty to explore here. (Overnight in Edinburgh)

Edinburgh During your included city tour, you’ll get to see the best attractions and learn all about local traditions and stories. Visit Princes Street, Grassmarket, Dean Village, and Holyrood Palace. (Overnight in Edinburgh)

Your journey ends in London

Spend one final morning in Edinburgh before catching the train back to London where your journey ends.

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Scottish Highlands

The Scottish Highlands: The Complete Guide

Chris Gorman/Getty Images

The Scottish Highlands belong on every traveler's bucket list, but, in particular, the beautiful region of Scotland is coveted by nature lovers and outdoorsy adventurers. Located in the western and northern areas of Scotland, the Highlands feature unparalleled scenery, from towering mountain ranges to sweeping, green countryside to sparkling lochs. It's the sort of place that feels otherworldly, especially when you leave the beaten path and get into the more remote areas of the Highlands. It can be difficult to decide what to include on a Highlands itinerary, but you really can't go wrong, especially if you give yourself plenty of time to explore.

The Top Destinations in the Scottish Highlands

The Highlands represent a massive area of northern Scotland, including numerous towns, national parks, and wilderness areas. Deciding what to see can be intimating at first, especially when looking at a map, so it's best to narrow your visit down to a few solid destinations. While there are many places to go around the Scottish Highlands, some of the best and most memorable include Cairngorms National Park, Loch Lomond and Glencoe.

Cairngorms National Park

Cairngorms National Park is one of the most famous areas in the Highlands, boasting magnificent views you won't forget. The vast area is the largest national park in the U.K. and welcomes both day-trippers and those who hope to spend a few days (or even a week) exploring its lakes, mountains, and natural formations. Camping is particularly popular in Cairngorms and there are numerous campsites, for both tents and camper vans, throughout the park.

Cairngorms National Park isn't just for hiking and camping, either. The park features numerous museums, historic sites, and even castles, all of which should be part of your itinerary. Look for Balmoral Castle, Ballindalloch Castle, and the Highland Folk Museum , which showcases living history.

Scotch lovers shouldn't miss the Glenlivet Distillery , where the distillery showcases whiskey-making and even includes a tasting on its tours (which should be booked in advance).

Isle of Skye

Located off the west coast of Scotland, Isle of Skye is famous for its rugged yet picturesque landscapes and its beautiful coastline. There are numerous villages throughout the island, including Portree and Dunvegan. Many visitors come to Isle of Skye to spot its varied wildlife and enjoy its iconic hikes. Isle of Skye is best visited during the warmer months, when you can better enjoy the hiking trails and beaches.

There's a lot to see and experience on Skye, so it's best to stay at least a few days, whether it's in a holiday home rental or a campsite. Check out the Talisker distillery and Dunvegan Castle and Gardens , which has been the ancestral home of the Clan MacLeod for 800 years. Many visitors also opt to take a boat tour around the island, if you'd like to join one look for tours leaving from Elgol or Portree. If you don't have a car or a rental, stay in one of the main areas, like Portree, but the more remote destinations on the island are recommended for a quiet, nature-focused getaway.

Inverness and Loch Ness

The city of Inverness, located in the far north of Scotland, has a sizable airport and a bustling downtown with nice restaurants and shopping areas. The city is also the gateway to Loch Ness, a beautiful destination that has far more to offer than just its mythic monster. Hiking, fishing, cycling, and skiing are all popular activities in the scenic areas around Inverness, but there's also plenty of history, from Inverness Cathedral to Fort George.

To best explore Loch Ness, book a boat cruise. After the cruise pay a visit to the Loch Ness Centre and Exhibition . Families will also enjoy Nessieland, a small theme park with play areas and attractions based on Nessie herself. Adventurous travelers should rent a bike and ride the Loch Ness 360° Trail , which circles the entirety of Loch Ness.

Fort William and Ben Nevis

Found in the western part of the Scottish Highlands, Fort William is a town best known as the gateway to Ben Nevis, the U.K.’s tallest peak that was once an active volcano, and the Glen Nevis valley. While many visitors will want to come during the summer for hiking and outdoor activities, the mountains also boasts great skiing at Nevis Range during the colder months. There area has numerous hikes, in varying degrees of difficulty, and many people attempt the steep trek to the top of Ben Nevis via one of its two faces.

Fort William itself is a small town with nice bed and breakfasts and holiday cottages, and there are also several surrounding villages to explore. There are also great pubs and seafood restaurants in the area, including the Ben Nevis Inn, located at the base of the mountain's footpath.

TripSavvy / Jess Macdonald

Eilean Donan Castle

Eilean Donan is a small island in the western highlands where Loch Duich, Loch Long and Loch Alsh meet, and standing atop the island is the iconic Eilean Donan Castle. It's a place you'll recognize from a lot of movies, including the "The World Is Not Enough" and "Highlander." The historic castle, which dates back to the 13th century, welcomes visitors year-round (although opening hours vary by season). Visitors can also book into the castle's vacation cottages. The castle is located near the village of Dornie, another scenic spot to visit during your journey.

Glencoe, found in the Glencoe valley, is best known for its walking trails and the Glencoe Folk Museum , which showcases 18th-century heritage as well as the history of the Glencoe massacre of 1692. The winter brings skiing and sledding at Glencoe Mountain, while spring and summer invite visitors to bike, go sea kayaking and dip into Lochaber Geopark .

Don't miss Glencoe Lochan, a forested wilderness area north of Glencoe's village, and nearby Loch Leven, where you can follow the Loch Leven Heritage Trail around the lake. Hop a boat or kayak to the uninhabited island of Eilean Munde, the burial place of Glencoe's Macdonald clan, in Loch Leven.

Trossachs National Park and Loch Lomond

The famed Loch Lomond can be found in the Trossachs National Park , a vast park known for its amazing views and water sports. Camping is popular in the Trossachs, with wild camping permitted if you want to go more remote. There are also lots of trails for hiking and cycling, and there are six long-distance trails that make their way through the park (each is about 25 miles long and takes several days to complete). Golfing is also popular, with numerous courses available for visitors, including the Buchanan Castle Golf Club and the Aberfoyle Golf Club. At Loch Lomond, look for the Luss Heritage Path, which traverses the countryside as well as the ancient village of Luss.

There are many towns in the Trossachs, many of which lay alongside one of the lochs. Look for St. Fillans, on Loch Earn, and Callander to get a taste of small-town Scottish life. While there is some public transportation around the park, it's best to rent a car or camper van when exploring Trossachs National Park.

Things To Do in the Scottish Highlands

There's a lot to see and do in the Highlands, some of which is dependent on what time of year you visit. Most travelers prefer to tour around the Highlands during the spring, summer, or early fall to take advantage of the nice weather and long hours of daylight. Whether you prefer to explore national parks, uncover historical sites or hang out in the town pub, there's something to do for every type of visitor, including families with kids.

• Hiking is one of the most popular activities in the Highlands, particularly in the national parks and around Glencoe. Be sure to look for advice from the local visitor's center on the best trails for your ability level and be mindful of any weather conditions. Scotland also features numerous long-distance walking trails, in case you want to make a several-day trek through the wilderness.
• Camping is another highlight of the area, especially since Scotland allows wild camping (which means you can camp anywhere, as long as you follow the rules of the particular area). Many travelers opt to camp for a few nights or even their entire trip, so make sure you have the right gear and you get any necessary permits ahead of time.
• Golf courses are a dime a dozen in the Highlands and many boast impressive views. Look for famous courses like the Castle Stuart Golf Links and the Dragons Tooth Golf Course.
• Outdoor activities like kayaking, fishing, cycling, and rock climbing can be found throughout the Highlands, and many towns have shops offering boat and bike rentals, as well as fishing gear rentals.
• Scotland's history dates back hundreds of years, which is evident in the numerous historical sites and castles around the Highlands. You could make an entire itinerary of just castles, which can be found all over the area, often in remote locations. Do some research in advance to ensure the sites are open during your visit as many involve long drives to access them.
• The Highlands are also known for their whiskey distilleries. Most of the 47 local distilleries welcome visitors, including the area's oldest, Glenturret at Crieff and Balblair at Tain. Those interested in malt whiskey should embark on the Malt Whisky Trail, which features eight distilleries around Speyside.

How To Get There

The Highlands are relatively remote and quite vast, so the best way to visit is via rental car. International travelers can fly into Glasgow or Edinburgh, and rent a car there before traveling north. Alternatively, visitors can fly into Inverness, a smaller airport in the north of Scotland, and then drive to their chosen destination. You can also opt for a camper van to help simplify your travel as wild camping is legal in Scotland.

Those looking for a more scenic route should book a train journey from Glasgow or Edinburgh, both of which are three to five hours away from various Highlands destinations, including Fort William and Aviemore (which offers access to Cairngorms). The journey from Edinburgh to Fort William includes the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct and picturesque scenery included in the "Harry Potter" movies as the Hogwarts Express makes its way from London to the wizards' school. Use the Trainline website to find the best route when booking a train. Buses are also available from Glasgow to Fort William or Glencoe.

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10 Days in the Scottish Highlands: The Ultimate Itinerary

Posted by Francesca Brooking | Europe , Scotland | 14

The Highlands are arguably Scotland’s crowning glory. This mountainous region draws many visitors for its promise of solitude, glorious landscapes and castle ruins among other things. 

In this article, I’ll walk you through this 10-Day Scottish Highlands itinerary so you can make the most of your trip.

This itinerary was booked through Byway Travel, a low-impact travel company that does all the fiddly planning for you so you can sit back and enjoy the trip. It can be completely tailored to you too.

Encompassing Scotland’s northwestern side, highlands itineraries tend to include some of the Western Isles along the coast and for good reason.

The seafood is absolutely outstanding here and the beaches are simply breathtaking (some of the best in Europe!) 

So, when it comes to planning your Scottish Highland Itinerary, you’re spoilt for choice. How can you make sure you see the best of everything? A low impact UK tour operator, Byway Travel, is here to help.

They take into account your preferences to create a tailored itinerary that’s kind to the planet. 

It’s perfect for solo travellers or couples who love adventure but want the ease of having the finer points planned.

The trip allows you to immerse yourself in nature with minimal impact on the environment. 

If you love mountains, islands, cosy guesthouses, pubs with roaring fires, organic whisky distilleries and quite possibly some of the best train journeys in the world then this itinerary is for you.

And hey, if you would prefer to organise this Scottish Highlands road trip yourself then you can replicate this itinerary too. 

Map of this Highlands & Islands itinerary

Why you should visit the scottish highlands & islands.

Photo credit: Connor Mollison – the majestic Kilchurn Castle

The Scottish Highlands and the Western Isles are where nature and adventure meet. Here, the sparsely populated landscape is rugged and wildlife is abundant.

The Inner Hebrides claim to have some of the best beaches in the world and you can spend your time hiking, island-hopping, visiting distilleries and enjoying fresh seafood. 

The Highlands, in particular, are known for their beauty. Although hardly a best-kept secret, they’re remote enough to make you feel like it’s just you and nature. 

You can journey up the Western Highlands by train past dramatic ruined castles, ride a steam train over Scotland’s most famous viaduct and enjoy lochs galore at every turn.

What’s more, wildlife lovers can catch sightings of porpoises, dolphins, minke whales, seals, eagles, deer and so much more!

Wondering what to pack for a trip to Scotland? Read my complete guide here.

So, what is Byway Travel?

Photo credit: Bjorn Snelders – the Glenfinnan Viaduct  

Byway Travel is a new tour operator on the block that specialises in bespoke package holidays for the UK and some parts of Europe.

The wonderful thing about this travel company is that their whole ethos centres around helping you have off-the-beaten-track experiences through slow travel. 

Every tailored trip is a no-fly holiday. You’re invited to explore by train and boat, stop at unique stays and enjoy lesser-known activities en route. 

Byway is your go-to travel planner. They sort everything from your accommodation to your activities as well as all your transfers. They’re on hand to help you every step of the way, including during the trip itself. 

When arranging your tour, the Byway team will take your preferences into account to make sure the trip is tailored to you. You’ll also get expert advice on all the hidden gems and local favourites in the area you’re planning to visit. 

Byway is an environmentally-friendly travel company. They create trips that don’t rely on flying and they recommend sustainable places to stay that support the local community wherever possible. 

They’ve also recently become a Certified B Corporation.

B Corps are businesses that balance purpose and profit. This means that they’re legally required to scrutinise their impact on their employees, customers suppliers, community and environment. 

You can read more about B Corporations here. 

To be honest, I think more businesses should be B Corps!

Read More:  10 of the Best Tour Operators in the World

Your perfect 10-day Scottish Highlands itinerary

Photo credit: Eric Welch – a Highland cow

Byway Travel are specialists in adventure and this amazing tour was put together specifically for those who love nature, wildlife and the remote wilderness.

The tour focuses on the Western Highlands and Scottish Isles, including the Inner Hebrides so you can get the best of the mountain landscape and rugged coastline.  I did this tour myself so I can attest that it’s a brilliant trip.

Scottish Highlands trip details 

Length: 10 days

Start-end: Glasgow

Adults: 1 (the tour is designed for solo travellers but it can be customisable)

Extras: The tour can be completely tailored to you

Price: From £1,257 per adult (including transport and accommodation but not activities)

Below is your Scotland 10-day itinerary. Like any Byway tour, it’s completely customisable to you: 

Day 1: Glasgow to Loch Lomond

Photo credit: Robert Keane – Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park

The first stop on your trip is Glasgow. It’s a beautiful city, well-known for its 18th century and art nouveau architecture.

Although Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland, Glasgow is much bigger. It’s also a cultural hub, home to the National Theatre of Scotland and the Scottish Ballet. 

Glasgow is a fascinating city, well worth a look around before you head over to Queen Street Station to catch the West Highland Line northbound. 

This train journey is particularly beautiful, so there will never be a dull moment outside the window. In fact, it’s easily one of my all-time favourites. Get ready to feast your eyes on deep forests, rugged mountains and shimmering lochs all the way up.  

Before long, you’ll reach the iconic beauty that is Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Hop off at Arrochar and Tarbet Station to stretch your legs and explore for a couple of hours. 

Loch Lomond makes for a fantastic lunch stop. Afterwards, you can go walking on one of the many popular hiking routes, take a kayak out on the water or simply sit and admire the view. 

Read More:  10 of the Most Epic Train Journeys in the World

Loch Lomond to Isle of Mull 

For the next leg of your journey, rejoin the West Highland Line to reach the port of Oban. Once again, you’ll be spoilt for scenic views speeding by your window.

Stunning highlights include the dramatic sight of the ruined Kilchurn Castle at the top of Loch Awe. Awe is right as the ruins cut a striking image that’s mirrored in the dark waters of the loch. It’s really quite something to see!

Once you arrive at Oban, take your time grabbing a bite at one of its many eateries. You won’t regret it as this little resort town is Scotland’s seafood capital. You bet they will be serving the best fresh fish around! 

Day 1-4: Explore the Isle of Mull

Photo credit: M. Zonderling – puffins have been known to hang out here

To reach Mull, you need to get on a 45-minute ferry. Tobermory on Mull is an excellent place to set up base for a few nights.

You have an abundance of coastal walks, cosy pubs and eateries with delicious, fresh seafood on your doorstep. Seriously though, the seafood is out of this world here – especially the crab!

For the next four days, allow yourself to really sink into island life. There’s plenty of things to do on Mull. You can head down to the beach for wildlife spotting. On a good day, you can see the likes of dolphins, porpoises, otters, white-tailed eagles and plenty of seals. 

The Ross of Mull is an excellent place to go wild swimming, crag climbing, cycling and kayaking. You can go island-hopping on Ulva, Staffa (for puffins!) and Iona .

I recommend doing this wildlife boat trip to the dramatic island of Staffa and Fingal’s Cave. I saw cormorants, dolphins, seals and rare feeding minke whales!

You can also take a water taxi to Drimnin to visit Nc’Nean , an organic whisky distillery. 

If you want to see more of the Scottish islands, south of Mull lies Islay which is famous for its whisky. I recommend staying at the beautiful Glenegedale House. You can r ead a review of it here. 

Where to stay: Harbour View B&B

Where to eat: Fisherman’s Pier (for award-winning fish ‘n’ chips!)

Day 5: Visit remote Corrour

The remote landscape of Corrour at its best

Today you’ll take the ferry back to the mainland and travel to Corrour.

It’s a particularly special stop for those who want to go somewhere really remote. Corrour is only accessible by train, bike or a twenty-minute walk. There are no public roads.

If you stay here for a night, you can ramble through the surrounding moorland, visit the beautiful Loch Ossian and hike up Beinn na Lap (although you will need to have the right equipment with you!). 

Corrour is also a fantastic place for stargazing as there’s hardly any light pollution. It’s just you and uninterrupted views of the sky all night long.

Where to stay: Corrour Signal Box (from March – otherwise Corrour Station House in the winter)

Where to eat: Corrour Station House

Day 6: Corrour to Glenfinnan

Photo credit: Jack Anstey – Glenfinnan Viaduct in all its glory

Now if you’re a bit of a Harry Potter fan then you’re going to absolutely love this part of the Scottish Highlands itinerary. If not, well, it’s just as thrilling, don’t worry. 

You’ll leave Corrour and board the train northbound to Fort William.

Here, you’ll have a chance to get on the Jacobite Steam Train – otherwise known as the Hogwarts Express – which will take you over the 21-arched Glenfinnan Viaduct. 

This viaduct is an iconic Scottish landmark located at the top of Loch Shiel. Most people know it as the train route to Hogwarts in the Harry Potter films, although it has an impressive list of other film credentials to its name.

It’s also the longest concrete bridge in Scotland. 

If you want to spend a bit more time here, head close to the shores of Loch Shiel where you will find the Glenfinnan Monument and Visitor Centre.

The Monument was erected in 1815 as a tribute to the Jacobite Clansmen who fought and lost their lives in the cause of Prince Charles Edward Stuart (known as ‘Bonnie Prince Charlie’). 

In the Visitor Centre, you’ll learn about the 1745 Jacobite Rising, Prince Charles’ campaign to regain the British throne and his final defeat at the Battle of Culloden. 

You can also climb to the top of the Monument and be treated to panoramic views of Loch Shiel and the surrounding Highlands.

Another ‘eek’ moment for Harry Potter fans – you might recognise Loch Shiel’s island as the location where the Triwizard Tournament was held!

Editor’s tip: If you want to ride the Jacobite Steam Train, your ticket includes a return as standard. It goes directly from Fort William to Mallaig and back again – no stops.

If you want to see the steam train go over Glenfinnan – and explore the area – you will need to get the ScotRail and get off at Glenfinnan. Here’s a guide to the steam train schedule.

Day 6-10: Knoydart Peninsula and the Small Isles OR Isle of Skye

The eco-friendly Isle of Eigg

After a thrilling ride on the Jacobite Steam Train, head to Mallaig and the Knoydart Peninsula where Byway recommends you stay for another four nights. Here you can make the most of the Small Isles, including Eigg, Muck and Rum.

The Guardian called Eigg Britain’s most eco-friendly island in 2017. This remote Scottish Isle is said to be a pioneer in sustainability.

Virtually 100% of its energy is produced by the first grid in the world to be powered by a combination of wind, solar and hydro schemes.

What’s more, all those cables are underground to protect the island’s unspoilt beauty.  

A popular activity on Eigg is hiking up An Sgùrr, the island’s highest peak. This dramatic hill has stunning panoramic views of Eigg, the other Small Isles and across to Skye. 

Where to stay: The Glebe Barn

Where to eat: Galmisdale Bay Cafe & Bar

if you don’t want to spend as long on Knoydart, I recommend tailoring your trip to include the Isle of Skye too.

Skye is particularly famous for its geological features such as the Old Man of Storr, the Quiraing, Dunvegan Castle and the Cuillin. You can also visit the stunning Fairy Glen and Fairy Pools. 

From Mallaig, you can get the ferry over to Skye (it’s pretty short!) then drive or take the bus up to Portree.

If you’re castle-hunting, another one not to miss nearby is Eilean Donan Castle but you’ll need to drive or get the number 917 bus from Portree to get there as it’s technically on the mainland.

Stay at Viewfield House , a cosy country estate with an amazing breakfast. Or check out this guide to Skye accommodation here.

Read More:  31 Sustainable Tourism Destinations for Solo Nature Lovers

Day 10: Mallaig to Fort William

Some jaw-dropping views await you in Fort William 

It’s hometime but not before you’re treated to another selection of jaw-dropping views via the Mallaig to Fort William train.  It’s back over Glenfinnan Viaduct so you have another opportunity to admire the view.

Fort William to Glasgow 

The last leg of your journey down to Glasgow takes you past the Horseshoe Curve and Ben Dorain en route. Sit back, relax and enjoy a Scottish Highlands and islands holiday well spent. 

Spending a bit longer in Fort William? Discover these epic day trips nearby!

So that was your Highlands itinerary!

The Old Man of Storr on the Isle of Skye is worth a visit!

Byway’s Scottish Highlands tour gives you a perfect snapshot of the country’s wild and iconic landscapes.

This epic 10-day itinerary gives you mountains, lochs and islands galore. You also have fantastic hiking opportunities (so bring your boots!) and a chance to see some incredible wildlife.

The great thing about this tour is that it’s completely accessible by train and ferry. You don’t need to fly or hire a car anywhere. To get up to Scotland, they usually arrange for you to travel on the Caledonian Sleeper.

You can also easily turn it into a road trip itinerary if you would prefer.

Everything is sorted for you from your transport to your accommodation. It’s an effortless way to adventure in the Scottish wilderness. 

Book your Highlands tour with Byway. Visit the website here for more information. 

• 10 Best Activities for the ULTIMATE Edinburgh Solo Travel Itinerary
• 9 Best Scotland Small Group Tours You Need To Book (2022)
• The Most Unique Eco-Friendly Getaways in Scotland
• Hotel Review: Schloss Roxburghe, The Scottish Borders
• The Best Time To Visit The Isle Of Skye For The Perfect Trip
• How To Get To Glenfinnan Viaduct From Fort William (A Complete Guide For 2024)

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About The Author

Francesca brooking.

Francesca Brooking is the Founder of Little Lost Travel. A travel expert with a passion for the planet, Francesca is on a mission to help you travel well. From Costa Rica to Jordan, she's travelled all over the world. When she's not off on an adventure, she's reviewing sustainable travel products and writing travel guides.

14 Comments

Wow, this looks incredible! As I’ve gotten older, I’ve realized that I enjoy visiting scenic, sparsely populated places far more than big cities. Would love to visit Scotland one day!

Thank you! Yes me too. There’s something so soothing about nature. Scotland is just such an incredible place. Edinburgh is one of my all-time favourite cities.

Amazing! I know nothing about traveling all over the country, what a wonderful looking place to explore.

Thank you! It really is.

This looks like an amazing itinerary in the Scottish Highlands! It’s been on my bucket list for years. Pinning it for future planning!

Thank you! It really has the best of everything.

You make me miss the Highlands and Islands so much! I did an Outlander tour around Inverness but missed so much of what you highlight here. Thank you for this! I’ll go back with your tips in tow. #TravelBlogTuesday

Outlander tour sounds amazing! I would love to do that too.

Oh my! This is so incredible. I’ll probably change my next destination to Ireland! Bookmarking this 😉

Definitely! 🙂

What a fantastic itinerary! With a few places I haven’t been to too 🙂 and it’s very reasonably priced!! Will have to consider them for future adventures 🙂

Absolutely! Something to look forward to after the pandemic.

It’s an excellent itinerary. I haven’t set foot out of Scotland outside of Edinburgh so following this route might be a good start. The Isle of Mull seems brilliant for wildlife.

Absolutely! This itinerary would be a fab place to start. Nice and easy!

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Last Updated on 31/12/2023

• International edition
• Australia edition
• Europe edition

Humza Yousaf quits as Scotland’s first minister – as it happened

Scotland’s first minister resigns after failing to muster enough votes to survive a no confidence vote this week

• Humza Yousaf steps down as Scotland’s first minister
• Who is in the running to replace Humza Yousaf as SNP leader?
• 2d ago Early evening summary
• 2d ago Majority of Scots wanted Yousaf voted out of office before he resigned, poll suggests
• 2d ago Heaton-Harris say he's 'reassured' by Irish government's explanation of its new law affecting migrants arriving from UK
• 2d ago Stephen Flynn says John Swinney only candidate to replace Yousaf 'with experience to do job and unite party'
• 2d ago MPs debate e-petition saying parliament should legislate to allow assisted dying
• 2d ago Tories say Swinney as first minister would represent 'absolute continuity' with Salmond, Sturgeon and Yousaf
• 2d ago Swinney says he's 'overwhelmed' by the 'many, many' messages from SNP colleagues urging him to stand for leadership
• 2d ago Alex Salmond claims Yousaf was blocked from doing deal with Alba to keep his job by SNP 'old guard'
• 2d ago Swinney says he's 'very actively' considering standing for SNP leadership
• 2d ago Ian Blackford backs John Swinney for next SNP leader
• 2d ago Ash Regan says it's bizarre Yousaf chose to resign rather than strike deal with fellow pro-independence party, Alba
• 2d ago Scottish Greens say they will work constructively with any SNP leader 'who shares our progressive values'
• 2d ago What Yousaf said about why he resigned
• 2d ago Yousaf confirms he is resigning, saying he was not willing to trade his principles just to win no-confidence vote
• 2d ago Starmer claims it's 'slightly farcical' government overhauling Pip disability benefit scheme it set up itself
• 2d ago Charities condemn plan to restrict Pip, saying it is a 'reckless assault on disabled people'
• 2d ago Former Scottish deputy FM John Swinney says he will 'reflect', in response to calls for him to replace Yousaf
• 2d ago Ongoing cash benefits could be replaced by one-off payments or vouchers under plans to change Pip disability benefit, DWP says
• 2d ago Labour calls for early election in Scotland to resolve 'chaos' generated under Yousaf's leadership
• 2d ago Sunak says government changing who can get Pip disability benefit to make welfare system 'sustainable for future'
• 2d ago Humza Yousaf reportedly 'to resign as early as today'
• 2d ago MSPs braced for announcement on Humza Yousaf's future as SNP leader ‘one way or another this morning’

In a Commons urgent question Labour’s John Healey, the shadow defence secretary, asked the government to comment on reports at the weekend saying the Ministry of Defence is considering sending troops into Gaza to escort trucks of aid being driven off a giant floating pier built by the US military .

Healey did not get an answer. Leo Docherty , the defence minister, replied:

We are not going to comment on the speculation that there might be a ground role for UK forces; it wouldn’t be right for me to comment on speculation and we’re very clear as to the current remit. RFA [Royal Fleet Auxiliary] Cardigan Bay is there to provide living support for the US troops involved in the construction and operational delivery of the JLOTS (Joint Logistics Over-the-Shore) platform.

MPs debate e-petition saying parliament should legislate to allow assisted dying

MPs have just started debate on an e-petition signed by more than 200,000 people saying parliament should legislate to allow assisted dying. The petition says: “Terminally ill people who are mentally sound and near the end of their lives should not suffer unbearably against their will.”

The debate will not have any practical impact. It is taking place in Westminster Hall, and MPs are not debating legislation, or even a substantive motion. If there is a vote, it will only be on whether or not MPs have debated the petition. (Sometimes MPs push for a no vote, on the grounds that that is a means of registering opposition.)

But the debate, which could run for three hours, will allow MPs with strong feelings on the topic to say what they think, and it may give some indication as to whether or not there is a majority in the Commons for change. When the Commons voted a proper assisted dying bill in 2015, MPs voted against by 330 votes to 118.

There is a live feed of the debate here.

Ahead of the debate, supporters and opponents of assisted dying staged rival demonstations outside parliament.

Tories say Swinney as first minister would represent 'absolute continuity' with Salmond, Sturgeon and Yousaf

Douglas Ross, the Scottish Conservative leader, has said that, if John Swinney becomes the next SNP leader, he won’t represent change. Ross told Times Radio:

John Swinney served in Alex Salmond’s cabinet and Nicola Sturgeon’s cabinet and was one of the strongest supporters of Humza Yousaf. It will be absolute continuity again, with more focus on independence than improving public services that have suffered year after year … John Swinney voted for all of these policies. He was deputy first minister when Nicola Sturgeon introduced her gender recognition reform bill. He also supported Humza Yousaf when he was justice secretary and introduced the Hate Crime Act. John Swinney has been at the heart of the SNP and nationalist governments since he was first elected in 2007. All of these policies that are rightly being challenged across Scotland have his hallmark all over them.

A reader asks:

The Tory press release this morning relates to a green paper on disability benefits. If it’s a green paper, is there any realistic possibility of these changes coming in before a general election, or is this striking a pose to wind-up a certain constituency in advance of Thursday’s local elections?

There is no prospect at all of these changes coming into force before the general election.

And the Conservative party may think it suits them to have this in the news only three days before the local elections.

But that does not mean that is the only reason it is there. The government has been talking about welfare reform for some time, and Rishi Sunak has been explicit about wanting to cut the welfare bill to find revenue that he can use for things like tax cuts. This announcement is part of that agenda.

(And it would be a mistake to think that it is just a local elections ploy; come the general election, it is quite likely that Sunak will be proposing some tax cuts funded or part-funded by welfare cuts he would like Labour to oppose.)

Labour officials are infuriated they have not been allowed to see a copy of the government’s green paper on disability benefit reforms before a Commons statement on the subject later today.

Mel Stride, the work and pensions secretary, will stand up in the Commons this afternoon, at round 5pm, to announce proposals to change the welfare system to reduce the number of people with mental health issues claiming benefits.

Labour sources however say they are having to craft a response to those proposals without actually having seen the detail of them, making it impossible to decide whether they back them or not.

A DWP spokesperson said:

We are following the standard procedure for the oral statement. We always send a courtesy copy of an oral statement in advance ... The green paper is also being laid now, meaning all parliamentarians will have access to it very soon.

Here are further tribute to Humza Yousaf from SNP colleagues.

From Nicola Sturgeon , his predecessor as first minister

I know how big a privilege being First Minister is, but also the toll it can take. I also know what a wrench it is to step aside, even when sure it is the right thing to do. Humza has conducted himself with grace, dignity and integrity - both as FM and in the manner of his… — Nicola Sturgeon (@NicolaSturgeon) April 29, 2024

I know how big a privilege being First Minister is, but also the toll it can take. I also know what a wrench it is to step aside, even when sure it is the right thing to do. Humza has conducted himself with grace, dignity and integrity - both as FM and in the manner of his leaving. I am and always will be proud to call him a friend.

From Stephen Flynn , the SNP leader at Wesminster

Humza Yousaf has served Scotland with integrity, compassion and commitment. The challenges he has faced have been huge, yet at every turn he has led from the front. There can be no doubt that he has now laid the groundwork required to take our country forward. I wish him well. — Stephen Flynn MP (@StephenFlynnSNP) April 29, 2024

Humza Yousaf has served Scotland with integrity, compassion and commitment. The challenges he has faced have been huge, yet at every turn he has led from the front. There can be no doubt that he has now laid the groundwork required to take our country forward. I wish him well.

From Shona Robison , deputy first minister and cabinet secretary for finance

Very dignified, moving & personal statement from @HumzaYousaf this morning. He is recognised on the international stage for his leadership on the humanitarian crisis in Gaza when others have been mealy mouthed. I’ve no doubt he will continue to contribute to public life in 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 — Shona Robison MSP (@ShonaRobison) April 29, 2024

Very dignified, moving & personal statement from @HumzaYousaf this morning. He is recognised on the international stage for his leadership on the humanitarian crisis in Gaza when others have been mealy mouthed. I’ve no doubt he will continue to contribute to public life in 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

From Angus Robertson , cabinet secretary for the constitution, external affairs and culture

Humza Yousaf made history as the first-ever Muslim national leader of a modern Western European democracy. I'm very sorry to see him step down. It was an honour to serve in his Cabinet. — Angus Robertson (@AngusRobertson) April 29, 2024

Humza Yousaf made history as the first-ever Muslim national leader of a modern Western European democracy. I’m very sorry to see him step down. It was an honour to serve in his Cabinet.

The SNP MSP Fergus Ewing is a former rural economy and tourism secretary in the Scottish government, not the current one as an earlier post (see 2.42pm ) wrongly said. I’m sorry for the error.

Neil Gray , the health secretary in the Scottish government who was second favourite to be next SNP leader in odds quoted this morning (see 9.53am ), is not planning to stand and is supporting John Swinney for the job, Sky News is reporting.

Gray posted this on X earlier.

I am so sorry, heartsick sad, for @HumzaYousaf & Nadia. They’ve always put others before themselves & today encapsulates that. He’s led & left with dignity, compassion & an overwhelming desire to put the interests of the nation before his own. A true leader. So proud of my friend — Neil Gray MSP (@neilcgray) April 29, 2024

I am so sorry, heartsick sad, for @HumzaYousaf & Nadia. They’ve always put others before themselves & today encapsulates that. He’s led & left with dignity, compassion & an overwhelming desire to put the interests of the nation before his own. A true leader. So proud of my friend

The SNP has published the full text of Humza Yousaf’s resignation statement on its website.

In some respects, it was a model for a statement of this kind. There was nothing self-pitying about it, and there was a welcome absence of hubris and boasting too. It also contains positive messages, about multiculturalism, minority rights and compromise.

Here are post on X from two commentators praising it.

From Open Democracy’s Peter Geoghegan

In fairness to Humza Yousaf he did at least accept responsibility for the mess he created. Too many leaders - in politics and beyond - don't. — Peter Geoghegan @ democracyforsale.substack (@PeterKGeoghegan) April 29, 2024

In fairness to Humza Yousaf he did at least accept responsibility for the mess he created. Too many leaders - in politics and beyond - don’t.

From the Guardian’s Rafael Behr

Yes, I was struck by the contrast between Yousaf 'I dropped the ball, this one's on me' and, eg, Johnson 'mindless herd has turned away from me for no good reason' — Rafael Behr (@rafaelbehr) April 29, 2024

Yes, I was struck by the contrast between Yousaf ‘I dropped the ball, this one’s on me’ and, eg, Johnson ‘mindless herd has turned away from me for no good reason’

yes this is very much what struck me. No deep state/mindless here. Just 'yeah I messed up'. — Peter Geoghegan @ democracyforsale.substack (@PeterKGeoghegan) April 29, 2024

yes this is very much what struck me. No deep state/mindless here. Just ‘yeah I messed up’.

• Politics live with Andrew Sparrow
• Conservatives
• Humza Yousaf
• Scottish National party (SNP)
• Scottish politics

More on this story

Next first minister will need centre-left allies, says Scottish Greens’ Harvie

Who is in the running to replace Humza Yousaf as SNP leader?

Humza Yousaf quits as first minister of Scotland: what happens now?

John Swinney favourite to become Scotland’s first minister after Humza Yousaf quits

Humza Yousaf’s unravelling tenure shows how short and brutish political lives have become

What was the SNP and Greens’ deal and what happens now it has ended?

Scottish Greens will not back down in Humza Yousaf row, co-leader says

Beleaguered Humza Yousaf says he does not rule out Scottish election

Humza Yousaf fights to stay on as second no confidence motion tabled

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