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Katzenjammer are a female folk pop group from Oslo, Norway. Their sound bridges cabaret, traditional folk and the symphonic/baroque pop of acts like the Beach Boys and the Zombies.

The group officially formed in 2007, but it’s members met just three years earlier, during their attendance at a private music school in Oslo. The members comprising the collective are Anne Marit Bergheim, Marianne Sveen, Solveig Heilo, and Turid Jorgensen. The four aspiring musicians bonded over a shared feeling of displacement at their school and decided to form a band upon hearing member Bergheim play the song “Wading in Deeper” on the piano.

The band derived it’s name from the oldest running comic strip, Katzenjammer Kids. It is also a German loan word, which roughly translates to “lament of a cat” and is additionally a term (though outdated) meaning “hangover”.

The girls’ talent covers a far spanning mastery of various instruments, ranging from the conventional: piano, guitar, and drums to the more obscure: accordion, mandolin, glockenspiel, trumpet, melodica, banjo, and balalaika bass (an essential component of the group’s sound). The group’s list of influence is highly eclectic as well. They cite everything from film composers such as Danny Elfman to early 20th century gypsy jazz guitarists like Django Reinhardt.

Katzenjammer initially captured the public’s attention through their performances at platforms like NRK’s “Urørt”, Norwegian talent shows and a variety of festivals such as Norwegian Wood. The group struck their first gleam of success with the single “A Bar in Amsterdam” and with the stir following this release they were landing appearances on national TV and spots opening for acts like Kaizers Orchestra. In September 2008 they released their studio debut album “Le Pop” to highly favorable reviews and commercial success. The album climbed to No. 9 on the Norwegian Album chart and scored the group a nomination by Spellemannprisen for “Best Album of the Year”.

Almost exactly three years later the group put out their 2nd studio album “A Kiss Before You Go”. The album borrowed much of its conceptual inspiration from the Marc Caro/Jean-Pierre Jeunet fantasy film “The City of Lost Children”. Also all of the tracks except for the Genesis’ cover “Land of Confusion” were written by the band’s close collaborative partner, Mats Rybø.

This release like the group’s studio debut was an instant success. It was herald by critics and breached the top 10 on both Germany’s and Norway’s album charts. Katzenjammer’s 3rd studio album “Rockland” is expected to be released in 2015.

Live-Bewertungen

I have been hooked on Katzenjammer’s live shows since I first caught them by accident at London’s Monto Water Rats in 2011. Since then I’ve seen them at Dingwalls, Scala, XOYO and O2 Islington Academy and every time I - and the rest of the crowd - have left with big smiles on our faces.

They provide full on energetic performances which include a lot of strutting around, leg kicking, wigs and costumes and general fun, all ingredients that help attract a mixed, but very loyal, crowd. On top of that they are obviously very talented musicians that are not afraid to take on new genres and unfamiliar instruments (often several instruments at the same time). And the instruments are on a constant rotation as they play some 15 between the 4 of them.

The word Katzenjammer means something like a cat’s wail, and as an indie rock/electro fan I was sceptical about them at first when they brought out an accordion, a trumpet, glockenspiel, a BIG contrabass Balalaika featuring a cat’s face… and whatever else they use for their folk/pop/gypsy fusion music, but their feisty charm and talent meant that I was bobbing along with everybody else within minutes. Check them out! But get in early as the tickets WILL sell out.

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If you have never been to see Katzenjammer before I would recommend them.The experience is unbelievable.The 1st time I saw them was nearly 3 years ago in Leeds and thought they were fantastic but this time was even better.Their show is varied with really bright lights and really loud music one minute,then dark and quiet the next.They can all sing the lead while the other girls are in perfect pitch with their backing harmonies.They can vary their sounds with their different instruments which they can all play,depending on which songs they are playing.Their music genre is that varied,no matter what your taste in music is you will soon be singing and dancing along with their catchy tunes.If you only go to 1 gig this year,please go and experience this amazing the sights and sound that is KATZENJAMMER.

Scala 11th May

What a fabulous night. This multitalented group of musicians had the crowd going right from the start. Great sense of humour throughout.

I loved the fact that all the girls play virtually all the instruments. They moved from bass to drums and then guitars.

The voices were at times angelic. Beautiful harmonies and powerful lead vocals, again shared by the band.

I totally recommend going to see this band. If you like Celtic rock you will absolutely love them. I didn't know any of the songs but could tell this group were talented and interesting.

The band was awesome, sound was good despite being in the Columbia Halle. However, the audience was really underwhelming. Pretty much no dancing, few singing. Too many cell phones video takers, people talking and worst off all, too many who would grouch about anyone moving in the audience. If you only come for the view, get the DVD, don't go to a rock concert. This was disappointing and my friends who were at different areas in the audience, felt the same. Pity, the band deserved more dancing.

It was the first time I saw Katzenjammer playing. I didn't know much songs of them. But from the beginning to the end it was a good concert.

It was great to see the girls have fun while playing music. The interaction with the audience was nice.

I will definitely attend the next time when Katzenjammer will play in Doornroosje.

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Katzenjammer reveal Autumn Tour dates

Norwegian indie-folkers katzenjammer, return to the uk in november for a further set of dates kicking off in bristol and taking in the shepherd's bush empire..

Yesterday we featured the talented Alex Flovent on the site and today we return to chilly northern climes to catch up with indie-folk-mavericks Katzenjammer as they take time out after a phenomenal UK tour this May. Never a band to rest on their laurels, however, Katzenjammer have been quick to announce details of a further set of UK dates, which will see them return to British shores in November for a string of shows, which will include their largest UK gig yet at London’s Shepherd’s Bush Empire.

A highly accomplished, charismatic and nonconforming band, Katzenjammer are not to be missed live. Anne Marit Bergheim, Turid Jørgensen, Solveig Heilo and Marianne Sveen were even described by the Guardian as “an enormous sense of fun”. Of course, if you can’t wait until November there are a few summer festival appearances in Cambridge, Oxfordshire and Devon between now and then.

Katzenjammer Tour Dates

Katzenjammer

Latest setlist, katzenjammer on december 8, 2015.

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Katzenjammer US Tour

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For those of you in or near Milwaukee you'll get two opportunities to see Katzenjammer on the Fourth of July. This fun-filled action-packed Norwegian all-female quartet will play two sets at Milwaukee Summerfest: 3 PM U.S. Cellular Connection Stage, 6 PM Miller Lite Oasis (I think that's one of the main stages), and this is free. But catch them here, because they're there for just that day , then they're flying back to Norway. Hopefully they'll tour America a bit more after their album is released here in August. If you don't know who they are, there's been some discussion of them over at the Women With Mandolins thread . At least three of them play mandolin (they switch their instruments around a lot). David Byrne is involved in breaking them in the US, and may have had a hand in bringing them to Bonnaroo a couple of weeks ago. Rolling Stone does mention him joining another band on stage for one song, but not them. So they missed the boat on this one. Missing the boat with them could mean a dunking in the Nidelva! For more info go to http://www.myspace.com/katzenjammerne

Last edited by journeybear; Jul-03-2009 at 8:54am .

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Re: Katzenjammer US Tour

Fantastic..... Real sound of Janis Joplin in the singers voice. I reckon I would marry them all at the drop of a hat... WOW!!!! Just love girls who can pick and even better doing raunchy blues...

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And now, back by popular demand - KATZENJAMMER!!! This summer, a much more expanded American tour that includes both festival appearances and club dates, and even three Canadian dates. Note: European date protocol in effect. New website up. 22.06.2010 Viper Room, West Hollywood CA 23.06.2010 The Crocodile, Seattle WA 24.06.2010 Doug Fir Lounge, Portland OR 25.06.2010 Vancouver Jazz Festival, Vancouver BC 26.06.2010 Victoria Jazz Festival, Victoria BC 28.06.2010 Ottawa Jazz Festival, Ottawa ON 01.07.2010 Schuba's, Chicago IL 03.07.2010 Summerfest, Milwaukee WI 04.07.2010 Summerfest, Milwaukee WI 06.07.2010 Mercury Lounge, New York NY 08.07.2010 Cafe 939 at Berklee College, Boston MA 09.07.2010 Johnny Brenda's, Philadelphia, PA 10.07.2100 IOTA Club & Cafe, Arlington, VA [back to Europe] 10.08.2010 Cruzan Amphitheatre, West Palm Beach, FL - Lilith Fair 11.08.2010 Ford Amphitheatre, Tampa, FL - Lilith Fair 12.08.2010 Verizon Wireless Music Centre, Birmingham AL - Lilith Fair 15.08.2010 Cynthia Woods Mitchell Pavilion, Houston TX - Lilith Fair I'm going on record as being first to try and nudge John McGann into helping me get backstage to meet them at Berklee. Road trip!!! Just as a reminder of what's in store, here's their closing number from the main stage at last year's Bonnaroo. I love how the bass player just loses it after the drum solo.

Dag -- no Bay Area appearance. (Too bad I never made the move to Portland or BC.)

"The problem with quotes on the internet, is everybody has one, and most of them are wrong." ~ Mark Twain Mandolin shirts, hats, case stickers, & more at my Zazzle storefront

I hear you. Two words: Road Trip!!! For me, any concert worth going to usually involves going to the mainland, which is a drive of at least three hours, more often four or five. I was psyched to see the West Palm Bech date, until further research revealed it's a Lilith Fair date - which means they'll probably get a side stage set. Though that could be fun,and the lineup does include Sarah McLachlan, Norah Jones, Martina McBride, Court Yard Hounds, and Corinne Bailey Rae, I'd be psyched to see just them at a club date - a more concentrated and longer-lasting experiences, and for just $10. I was able to justify this stuff more when I was a music reviewer, and though I still feel that an act I want to see has travelled a lot farther than I have to a venue in question, and I am usually willing to make the effort to close that gap ... Hmmm ... might be time to visit my friends and family in the Northeast. Road Trip!!!

Sounds like a great idea -- and in that case we probably should add their Le Pop CD to the current "road trip music" thread.

Hm. I wonder if I can parlay my part-time employment with a Seattle-based Scandinavian cultural organization into a concert ticket?

Emando.com : More than you wanted to know about electric mandolins. Notorious : My Celtic CD--listen & buy! Lyon & Healy • Wood • Thormahlen • Andersen • Bacorn • Yanuziello • Fender • National • Gibson • Franke • Fuchs • Aceto • Three Hungry Pit Bulls

Worth a shot. Then again, tix for their gig at The Crocodile are $10 advance/$12 door. The club's calendar says "with special guests" but no names - maybe you can wangle that opening slot? You've got 12 days ...

Any link To Booking Agent,? A Scandanavian Festival out here, too, the weekend closest to the Summer Solstice. maybe get some scheduling to make the 2 hour drive, from PDX, next year.. see if it passes thru the 'Traditional enough' muster with the Organization, Here. or too entertaining to leave out ..

writing about music is like dancing, about architecture

Try the website. I seriously doubt they'd pass the trad test. "Too entertaining to miss" is the way to go!

Passed it along, to see what may happen.. the Immigrants that worked the canneries were Finns, etc. out here , in Decades past. tendency to form Unions and Social mutual support organizations.. more then than nowadays.

I dunno ... I understand there may be some residual resentment among Scandinavians from different countries ... Finns, Norwegians, Swedes, Danes, Lapps ... could be trouble if they find themselves in one room ... exTERminate - exTERminate - exTERminate -

Out here in the PacNW, any rivalry between various Scandinavian factions is conducted all in good fun, as far as I can tell. My boss is a Swedish American with a degree from a Norwegian university; she promotes Swedish culture in her day job and then spends her off hours raising money for statues of Leif Erikson, the Norwegian Viking. There's a block in the west end of Astoria that looks like Finn Central, judging from the names of buildings there ... but the Midsommar festival Bob refers to is pan-Scandinavian ... performers include a Swedish brass sextet (with eight members, go figure) and a Russian/Finnish folk ensemble. In the time I've worked for this organization, they've hosted a Norwegian pop chanteuse, Lise Olden; and a Swedish blues/rock band, Martin Johansson och der Starka Bandet (that's "and the Strong Band"); and they have that brass sextet coming up ... but thus far they've dropped the ball, twice, on hosting a Vasen gig. Anyway, I did send my boss a link to the Katzenjammer Web site.

Cool! I see their US booking is handled by William Morris, no slouches. The K's are surely better known over thar, and judging by their tour dates here - swinging wildly from festivals to $10 club gigs - they haven't yet established themselves here. In other words, they may well be available for a reasonable rate. Their schedule is tight for the NW segment, but there are nearly two weeks between their last Lilith show and their next gig back in Germany, in late August. That's when I would try to book them.

Yes, there's lots of Scandinavians in Georgia too. Actually, no there aren't any. Why?

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Not cold enough.

No, no, that can't be it.

Katzenjammer yes

Originally Posted by OldSausage Yes, there's lots of Scandinavians in Georgia too. Actually, no there aren't any. Why? Maybe they didn't like the way their names don't sound right when pronounced with a Southern drawl? And not cold enough even though during the Viking era Danes travelled as far south as Gibraltar.

Uh-oh, just discovered the OTHER Katzenjammer ... Maybe they could play some shows together?

Um, yeah, I don't think that's gonna work. Unless they can figure out some way to jump around more, and swap instruments ...

Well, here's what I put on my organization's Web site...

Well, now! Check that out! Hope it gets some people to the show. I hope you can handle some comments, meant as constructive criticism. First, I think "swing/rockabilly" is inaccurate; they're pop, rock or alternative. Wouldn't want people going expecting one thing and hearing another. Also, I know that's the photo from their current promo, but there are plenty of better ones, even at the Women With Mandolins thread, that have more color and liveliness. The Lilith Fair shows are a month and a half away, so mentioning them rather than their whirlwind 2 1/2 week North American tour - well, whatever, it's a minor point. Lastly, I like the Janis meets SNZ bit, but could you leave out the lutefisk? 50 kilos?!? Always leave out the lutefisk! Look, I don't mean to bring you down. Anything that puts butts in the seats is a good thing, and I'm grateful for your efforts on their behalf. But I've learned a few things in my years as a music writer and editor, and I've developed a sense for what works, so when I see some things that seem off my antennae go boing! I don't know if it's possible for you to make changes, but you might want to, if you can. And if you can't, look, I really think it's great you did something all on your own for a band and venue you're not affiliated with - very generous of you - I just wanted to mention some ways it could be better.

"Ain't No Thang" is definitely a rockabilly tune, and some of their other stuff definitely swings. They can even pull off the cabaret-chanteuse thing on songs like "Virginia Clemm" (and hey, anybody who writes a song about Edgar Allan Poe's child bride can have a glass of schnapps on me). They do have some of that Scandie sensibility in their vocal arrangements, which is why I mention ABBA. (That gal don't sing like Janis Joplin all the time, only when it suits the song.) But where I come from, we use rock as a mild putdown, pop as a significant insult, and alternative as a serious pejorative. I do mention the whirlwind tour as well as Lilith Fair (anybody can tour, but Lilith Fair is a badge of pride). Not sure about copyright sitch for photos from the Cafe, and don't have time to look into it, so I used an approved promo pic from the Katzenjammer Web site. So sue me. When a Swede writes about Norwegians, he must mention lutfisk somewhere. It's one of the rules of the game. BTW, your shirt clashes with the finish on your mando...

Well, I tried. I would call "Ain't No Thang" "jug band," but maybe that's just me. Sorry to hear you live in a cultural climate where people are so snobbish about rock and pop. People forget about the music they loved when they were growing up and develop an attitude about whatever comes along after - it's true, it will never measure up, especially not to people who grew up listening to Lawrence Welk and Mantovani. Anyway, yes, being selected to play Lilith Fair is an honor - my point was just that it was a bit far in the future. Many pics at the WWM thread originated from the band's myspace page or website so should be OK. That pic is just - eh. They're more fun that that. But you know, I did mull this over before mentioning anything along the lines of constructive criticism, tempering these observations with compliments, and hoped you would be able to handle suggestions in a professional manner. One should never assume. Expect a subpoena to be served soon, possibly by someone wearing a T-shirt with banjo on it. BTW, that shirt clashes with just about everything except blue jeans and the strap I was using. That's about the best pic I have of the long-lost F-12, which is the key element there. Very few photos exist displaying my visage, as something unfortunate happens to cameras in the process. It's something I've learned to live with, if not fully accept, and this shot is one that managed to survive somehow. What really clashes with the mandolin is the tuba ...

Last edited by journeybear; Jun-16-2010 at 11:57am .

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Katzenjammer

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Down Memory Lane – Katzenjammer

The latest band in this occasional series is Katzenjammer, arguably the greatest girl band of all time, along with The Go-Gos. Plenty would argue for The Bangles I know, but let’s not get bogged down here. And I’m not talking about auto-tuned singer/dancers either. I mean those that can play their instruments.

The reasons I propose Katzenjammer for that title are that the Norwegians are all multi-instrumentalists, swapping instruments throughout shows like Arcade Fire on speed and that they weren’t constrained by ‘genre’; nor did they ever set out to be. They could produce beautiful ballads, cabaret, rock, folk, country and even Balkan style music (using a contrabass balalaika called Akerö) and effortlessly switch from one to another.

Perhaps one of the greatest complements that can be paid to them is that they were one of Terry Wogan’s favourite bands. Wogan’s skills as a DJ were underestimated; it was he after all who ‘discovered’ Eva Cassidy.

They went on hiatus in January 2016 having spent much of the previous decade touring the world. That was forced on them by the departure of Marianne Sveen. While the remaining three did try to find a replacement it was almost impossible as she would have had to play guitar, banjo, keyboards and drums, and occasionally other instruments, and all to a very high standard. Not many can.

While they are technically still on hiatus comments made on social media this year suggest that the split is final. And the iconic Akerö has been sold.

The reason I chose Katzenjammer at all for this feature is that I came across a YouTube video I hadn’t seen previously, of a show in 2015, not long before they broke up. There’s no sign at all of any strain, although there apparently was and had been for some time but this isn’t their best performance by any means and you can tell they were getting tired. Someone made a recent comment on it that he’d never seen the band live and hoped for a reunion tour.

I’ve lost count of the people I’ve met who are fans of Katzenjammer but never saw them live and who desire just that. They’ve picked up on them mainly from TV show repeats. There is one famous one on TOTP2. I can only conclude that their marketing in the UK in their heyday was below par.

Of the four, Sol Heilo has a solo career now and is working on her second full length album. Marianne Sveen is working on her first and will release a second single soon. Both have been featured in NMR this year. Anne Marit Bergheim is said to be working on her first album but she’s in two other bands as well. I’m hoping to interview her, eventually. Only Turid Jørgensen is inactive, as far as I know.

Could they get back together, if only for a one-off tour, like, say, Genesis (who have had a few)? (I chose Genesis for this example because Katzenjammer made an extraordinary cover of ‘Land of Confusion’ which they often performed live and it is on the first video, below) . Most of their fans would admit that is highly unlikely now but the way I see it is this. 2020 will have concentrated many minds in the music business and made them realise that nothing can be taken for granted. I recall when Bananarama reunited two years ago the members referred to wanting to do it while they still could while when Shakespears Sister got back together after 27 years last year both parties expressed similar sentiments. And that was before the pandemic.

There will come a point in the lives of all ‘ex-band’ members soon, if it hasn’t done already, when they will realise that if they are ever going to do something like that they need to get on with it. They can become simply too old to do it, or they can be prevented by external events over which they have no control, or both.

Right now would be just dandy, girls. You wouldn’t need a new (fourth) album though that would be nice. Just some dates next year.

For those not familiar with Katzenjammer, it’s hard to choose sample videos (and always videos rather than audio tracks where this band is concerned because they are so dynamic live and generate a ‘joie de vivre’ you simply won’t find anywhere else, that’s why they are so loved). Here are my best shots.

Firstly, the video I referred to previously, of a show in Germany in 2015. The two tracks I recommend are ‘A Bar in Amsterdam’ at 56:40 (an oblique recounting of the Anne Frank story in my interpretation) and ‘Hey Ho, on the Devil’s back’ at 1:01:30.

In the first, Turid plays the balalaika, Anne Marit guitar, Marianne is on drums while vocals, trumpet and breathlessness (have you ever tried playing manic trumpet and then singing?) come courtesy of Sol. The second is ‘owned’ by Marianne, who always plays the song like this, despite the efforts of Turid and Anne Marit to distract her, while the real highlight for me is Sol’s drumming. She began her musical life as a drummer, at one time in eight bands at the same time, and once almost joined a professional orchestra.

And then, in complete contrast, the beautiful yet dystopian ‘Lady Marlene’ – a song the meaning of which has never been explained - and on which Anne Marit takes the vocal lead in a piano four-hands with Sol. As for the harmonies…

Enough said. Let’s see what happens, if anything. I respect that one of the band members has said she has moved on categorically from that ‘chapter’ and others may feel the same. But they need to know there is still a lot of interest in – and love for – them, out here.

Here's their website .

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Katzenjammer review – an enormous sense of fun

Katzenjammer are an entertaining curiosity. Four young Norwegian women who met at music school, they are all impressive singers and multi-instrumentalists who write songs in English. They mix good-time pop and Americana, but throw in influences that include Celtic and Balkan styles. Most importantly, they have an enormous sense of fun.

They’ve played arenas and festivals, but tonight they are in the upstairs room of a London pub to preview songs from their new album, Rockland, which is dominated by an acoustic fusion of country and blues. Sweden’s First Aid Kit and our own Ward Thomas have shown that there is a place for non-American female pop-country bands, and on this showing Katzenjammer fit easily into that market.

They opened with Curvaceous Needs, a cheerful and stomping country-rocker on which they showed off their four-part harmonies and played acoustic guitar, banjo, drums and an enormous bass balalaika. Then they moved on to a slinky new blues, and began to switch instruments, as bass guitar replaced balalaika and the banjo player moved to keyboards. And so it continued. All four provided lead vocals while constantly swapping instruments, which soon included accordion, mandolin and glockenspiel. The new songs were mostly upbeat and ranged from the gutsy Bad Girl, backed by slide guitar, to the poignant and thoughtful Lady Grey , written by Marianne Sveen, about an Alzheimer’s patient she met while working as a nurse.

Mixed in with this new and commercial set of tunes were reminders of the wild variety of the band’s earlier work, which included the furious, Gypsy-influenced workout A Bar in Amsterdam, in which Solveig Heilo played trumpet, to a bizarre and dramatic horror ballad Hey Ho on the Devil’s Back, featuring howled vocal effects from Sveen. I hope that success doesn’t make them too sensible.

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• Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Best of Moscow by high speed train

By shuguley , February 15, 2014 in Regent Seven Seas Cruises

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Sure would appreciate someone who has taken "Best of Moscow by high speed train" from St. Petersburg could please share their impressions of this shore excursion. From the description this sounds like a very long day.

Wondering how the 4 hour train trip was in terms of accommodations, etc. Also what time did you leave the ship and what time at night did you return? Were both legs of the trip on the high speed rail (I read that slower trains also travel the same tracks)?

My wife and I are considering this excursion. We thought that if we are making all the effort to go to Russia then how could we pass up going to Moscow, walking in Red Square, seeing St. Basil, etc.

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If you are considering this on the 2015 June Baltic cruise on Voyager; my suggestion is don't. There is so much to do in St. Petersburg and although a train is one of my favorite ways to travel the time would be far better spent in St. P.

Thanks for the advice. Yes, this would be on the Voyager during the 2015 season but not yet sure exactly which cruise.

We did the Moscow excursion "on a different luxury line", but from your brief description it sounds very much like the same trip, so I will operate on that assumption. It is a VERY long day! We left the ship at 5:30 AM and returned at 12:30 AM. The highspeed train trip is comfortable, and while they call it "Business Class" it does not compare well to the equivalent class on say Rail Europe. When we did it in 2011, we did have highspeed both ways, and the trip back seemed much longer as the adrenaline and excitement had worn off!:D

Moscow itself is not that terribly different from any other big city in the world, but this Cold War kid never thought he would ever stand in Red Square, never mind walk the grounds of The Kremlin, or tour The Kremlin Palace, or see (but not visit) Lenin's Tomb, or visit The Armoury. But he did, and he loved every minute of it! Yes, it is a long day, and you barely scratch a scratch on the surface, but it is worth it. There is a tremendous amount to see in St. Petersburg, but every Baltic cruise goes to St. Petersburg, so you can go back if you choose to. Not every cruiseline offers you the chance to see Moscow.

I have not personally done this tour, but our last time in St Petersburg, the private guide that we hired for a day was leading the regent tour to Moscow on the high speed train the next day. He said it was way better than the previous alternative, which was flying to Moscow and back. He said that you actually got to Moscow faster because you didn't have to deal with airline checkin etc. it did seem like a very long day to me, and there is so much to see and do in st. Petersburg that I didn't consider doing it.

countflorida

We toured to Moscow from St. Petersburg via the hi-speed SAPSAN train last September, from a Baltic cruise on the Oceania Marina. You need to have a two-night, three day port call in St. Petersburg to take this tour because the tour typically leaves the ship around 5:00 - 5:30 AM and doesn't return until after midnight the next day. We didn't take the ship's tour; we made private arrangements with TravelAllRussia for three days of touring, the first and third days in St. Petersburg and the second day the tour to Moscow by train. Our cost for the private tour for three days was about the same as what the ship charged for the excursion to Moscow alone. There are a number of private tour agencies that operate in St. Petersburg and offer the Moscow train tours; we would strongly recommend them over the ship's tours.

All three days had private guides with car and driver. The second day, the driver picked us up at the ship and took us to the train, but we were alone on the train, and met in Moscow by the guide on the station platform. After our tour and dinner, we were brought back to the train and after the return train trip met by the driver and taken back to the ship. Because you are alone on the train you must have your own Russian visas.

If this is your first visit to St. Petersburg, I would agree there is much more to see there. We found Moscow somewhat a disappointment, particularly Red Square. The Kremlin and the cathedral in Red Square were also worth seeing. But the best thing we saw was the Moscow subway! I worked for the Washington Metro system back in the 1980s as it grew from 40 to 80 miles and although I was in the computer area, I learned a lot about the challenges of running a subway system. We used the Moscow system to get across the city from where we had dinner to the train station, and I was amazed at the cleanliness', speed of operation, the short headways maintained, and the courtesy of everyone involved. A very impressive experience!

We had been to St. Petersburg before, and so had the time to take a day and go to Moscow. Also, I really like trains, and the SAPSAN is a German train set running on Russian rails. Seats are like first class domestic air, spacious but not too plush or comfortable, but with enough room. Not too much recline, and almost 8 hours on the train in two shots is a lot for an old man. They come through and sell drinks, candy, etc. but the sellers don't speak English and no one around us helped, so we had just poor coffee once coming, and brought stuff with us for the trip back. Not too much to see from the train either, particularly on the return when it is night the whole way.

If you decide to go, take a private tour and avoid the overly expensive ship's tour. I'm glad we did it, but wouldn't bother to repeat the tour; we've seen Moscow.

Thanks so much to all of you for the thorough and thought insight. Yhe information you have provided is most helpful.

countflorida: Your detailed post is very helpful. We are not quite ready for a Baltic cruise but should do so within a year. Time enough to do our pre travel research, bookings and visa gathering.:) Thank you!

Emperor Norton

Sure would appreciate someone who has taken "Best of Moscow by high speed train" from St. Petersburg could please share their impressions of this shore excursion. From the description this sounds like a very long day.   Wondering how the 4 hour train trip was in terms of accommodations, etc. Also what time did you leave the ship and what time at night did you return? Were both legs of the trip on the high speed rail (I read that slower trains also travel the same tracks)?   My wife and I are considering this excursion. We thought that if we are making all the effort to go to Russia then how could we pass up going to Moscow, walking in Red Square, seeing St. Basil, etc.

I did this on Seabourn. IMO DONT. Take Aeroflop (er Aeroflot). The train has non folding seats where you are literally knee to knee with your fellow passenger (facing each other). Further they don't believe in air conditioning. It's also the worlds slowed bullet train. I think I would have found more enjoyment wandering around the St. Petersburg and Moscow airports.

Countflorida,

This is a little off topic,, however we had planned a river cruise in Russia but decided we would rather stay on land and have booked about two weeks with Travel-All-Russia using the private guide and driver. I'm curious as to how you found them as a tour company.

The guides they provided were fine. We had a different guide each of the days in St. Petersburg, but both were flexible, pleasant, knowledgeable and spoke English very well, as did the guide in Moscow, incidentally. She was a bit aloof, distant, not too friendly, but otherwise fine. In fact, she was the one who suggested taking the Metro, which unexpectedly became one of the highlights of the Moscow excursion. If I have a complaint with AllTravelRussia, it is with their plan and its execution (more later).

I had requested emphasis on World War II (in Russia, the Great Patriotic War) sites and info. In scheduling us, they weren't careful about dates and a couple of the sites we wanted to see were scheduled on the third day, after we'd been to Moscow. But both sites were closed that day of the week, and that info was readily available, right on web sites describing them. Also, the included meals (lunches in St. Pete, dinner in Moscow) were not what we asked for: light meals with some choices, so we could avoid things we didn't like and choose things we did like. My request was ignored; we were given full Russian meals with a fixed menu, no choice. On the first day, a fish dish was the entre, but I am allergic to fish. Fortunately, I had the e-mail I'd sent with me and showed it to the guide, and she was able to change my entre to chicken, which was very good actually. But we didn't want a 3-4 course lunches or dinner (in Moscow). We had the guide drop the lunch the third day, although we never got any credit or refund. But, particularly in contrast to the ship's tours, the prices were so reasonable we didn't worry too much about it.

The people who were on the ship's tour to Moscow saw us boarding the same train for which they were forced to queue up and wait on the way back, and asked us what we had done. I was candid and open so they were not happy when I explained what we had arranged and particularly what it had cost. Also, when we returned to the ship, we found they had laid on a late supper for those who had gone to Moscow, so up we went and had something. Well, it turns out the late supper was supposed to be just for those on the ship's tour, but we and others on 'independent' tours, there were a dozen or more of us, crashed the party, actually got there first, and they didn't realize it until the larger group arrived and there weren't enough tables/places set. By that time, the 'independents' had all gotten served and were eating; what could they do?

A couple from the larger group sat down with us and asked us about our tour, and they were the ones I told about our arrangement and its cost. They turned to others who’d been with them and announced the details, loudly enough so the whole room heard, which started a lot of bitching and complaining. I gathered they weren't very happy with the ship's tour to begin with, and this was the straw that broke the camel's back. We finished up and beat it out of there, but overheard later that one of the excursion staff came to check on something and ran into a real mess. I caught a cold on the trip, which forced me to bed the second day following in Tallinn, so by the time we reappeared we heard about the contretemps' but apparently no one recalled who started it, thankfully.

Because of what happened to us, I would probably not use AllTravelRussia if I were to go again, or if I did, I would be sure to get confirmation of every detail of the tour. They do have good reviews generally, and we were certainly helped by their visa department and liked the guides and drivers. Their weakness, I say now with full 20:20 hindsight, is that once the sales person who plans the tour, sells it to you and collects your money, he (or she) transfers the plan to their Russia office for implementation; there is no follow-up to make sure it gets done right. And that is where our problems arose; we paid for a custom tour but got a standard package with a few destinations switched, and no one checked them out, even to see when they were open the day we were scheduled to go. If you check every detail that’s important to you, it should be OK, but that’s a hell of a way to have to do business, in my opinion.

Thank you for the 20/20 hindsight observation on your Russian tour operator, and better priced than the ship's excursion cost.

Thanks very much for the feedback.

We had the same experience as you so far as price. We originally booked a Viking Cruise but, hearing some things about the river cruises that made us unhappy, looked into other options. T-A-R cost the same or less than a cruise and had us in hotels for 11 days. We opted for the private tour. They have three tour levels, based on hotels. We originally opted for the four star as it did not cost much more than the three star hotels. Finally we decided to throw it all in and upgraded to five star. In Moscow we will be at the newly opened Kempinsky which is two blocks from Red Square. In St. Petersburg it is the Grand Hotel Europe, one of the most vaunted luxury hotels in Russia. Location is important for us as the tours use up only part of the day so being in the center of everything for our independent touring is important. As with many other cities, the less you pay, the farther out of the center of town you are.

We have been working with our salesman in D.C. and he seems to get back to us with the changes we want. He recently returned from Russia so is up on everything. When I asked they said they paid the full TA commission if I wanted so I got my usual TA on board so he is watching our back and giving us that extra level of comfort. He also set up our air, which I know pays him little or nothing, and got us business class for much less than T-A-R wanted for economy, though it took working for a while with a consolidator. He's happy to get his 10 percent on this trip without having booked it. He also took care of the trip insurance. We've been doing a lot of research on the CC sister site Trip Advisor and will write a report there. We will, I guess, become a source of info for CC members after having spent 5 days in Moscow and 6 in SP.

• 4 months later...

scubacruiserx2

Anybody considering a day trip to Moscow from St. Petersburg on the Sapsan may want to look at our travelogue filled with pictures.

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1927687

Very informative. Thanks dor sharing. Jeff

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