lebanon trip plan

Ultimate 10-Day Lebanon Itinerary for Your Perfect Road Trip

Lebanon is not a big country, but it is packed with fun things to do and amazing things to see. But how can you experience all that in only 10 days? I put together the ultimate 10-day Lebanon itinerary that makes a perfect road trip.

From central buzzing Beirut to Northern Tripoli and Southern Tyre. From Cedars to snow and the amazing Bekaa Valley. I’ll show you the things to do in Lebanon in 10 days and how you can arrange everything yourself.

I paid for everything in full myself. I was not paid or sponsored. All my opinions and experiences are my own.

Probe around the Globe does use affiliate links. If you decide to follow one of my links and make a purchase, I’ll earn a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you.

Ultimate 10-Day Lebanon Itinerary

10 Days in Lebanon

When I first started looking into going to Lebanon, I didn’t know how many days in Lebanon would be enough. I figured 1 week in Lebanon would feel a bit rushed and hectic.

I decide to fly in on a Thursday evening and I found a flight out on a Sunday evening.

This would give me 1 solid day of travel, arriving late in Beirut and 10 whole days to explore the country.

I absolutely loved it!

Actually, it has been 2 months since I’m back and I’m already putting Lebanon back on my list of places I want to visit.

About my 10-day Lebanon itinerary

I’m from the Netherlands and I traveled to Lebanon as a solo female traveler in my mid 30’s. I choose to rent a car but also used local transport for one of my day trips.

In the past, I’ve traveled solo to Turkey , Iran , Morocco, and Jordan , as well as Peru and Bolivia and most part of Europe. 

I knew Lebanon would be expensive, so I tried to find the cheapest places but still with a lot of comforts, like the perfect location, private rooms, breakfast included, free parking and decent reviews.

If I wanted to, I could have saved a bit more money if I would have picked shared accommodation like hostels or stayed in Beirut for 10 days.

As you can read below, I didn’t do that but I did make conscious decisions about the tours I did or didn’t take, mainly based on my budget and value for money.

I traveled to Lebanon in April. My last few days in Lebanon were around Easter. The first few days were lovely and sunny, after this, storms came in and I saw a lot of rain. It was also very cold and the weather was unpredictable. This influenced my trip quite a bit.

Top Things to do in Lebanon

This post is intended to help you decide what you can do in Lebanon in 10 days.

And how to arrange it yourself.

Below I walk you through the logistics of each travel day, what you can see and do in Lebanon, how to get there and where to stay.

If you’re interested in a particular location, jump straight ahead, otherwise, I’ll take you on my 10 days in Lebanon in chronological order.

• Day 0: Arrive in Beirut, Lebanon
• Day 1: Explore Beirut
• Day 2: Sidon & Tyre
• Day 3: Jeita Grotto, cable car to Our Lady of Lebanon and Jbeil/Byblos
• Day 4: Batroun and 2 Roman Ruins, Tripoli
• Day 5: Qadisha Valley, Cedars of God or Horsh Ehden National Park
• Day 6: Hiking in Qadisha Valley
• Day 7: Tannourine Cedars National Park and Baalbek
• Day 8: Anjar and Zahlé
• Day 9: Shouf National Park
• Day 10: Beiteddine, Moussa Castle, Deir el-Qamar village

My Ultimate Lebanon travel itinerary

I always try to pack as much into these shorter and smaller country trips.

My days were quite full and I didn’t allocate any time to lazy on the beach or go for days of skiing or snowboarding.

If that is what you’d like to do, make sure to add an extra day or two to your itinerary. Here is what I did with my 10 days in Lebanon.

Arrive at Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport

I arrived in Beirut at around 8 pm and I call this day 0. I went through customs and I had a taxi driver waiting for me with my name on a sign.

We went to the downstairs car park and from there, made our way to Beirut.

I learned all the prices for a pre-arranged taxi from the airport to Beirut (Hamra) are all the same. I arranged one with my hotel, but you can also use Allo Taxi app or book your Taxi transfer here.

3 nights in Beirut

I checked into the J Hotel and Spa , in downtown Hamra neighborhood. I stayed here for 3 nights, allowing for 2 full days in Beirut.

The place was lovely with its own fridge, AC that was working, and generous comfortable beds. The people at the reception were also very helpful and their breakfast was exuberant. 

I choose the Hamra neighborhood because it is the advised area to stay in. It is central, there are 100 places to stay and it has loads of restaurant options and evening activities. 

On my first evening, I went to a local mobile phone shop and bought a SIM card for Lebanon. As a blogger/ modern traveler, I cannot live without the internet.

During my recent trips to Iran and Jordan , I experienced it was so effortless to rely on my mobile phone working without WiFi, it was a no-brainer for me. For 50$ I got a sim card with 5GB of data and some minutes to make calls, which I didn’t use. 

If you want to hit the town running and not miss a thing, consider a Beirut Night Tour to explore the city by night. Starts at 6 pm so only possible when you’ll arrive earlier than I did. Check for more details here .

1-day walking tour around Beirut

To be honest with you. I’m not a big city person.

Looking at the map of Beirut, I felt immediately intimidated by the maze of streets and the lack of overview.

That is why I only allowed myself 2 days in Beirut, of which one I would get out of the city.

If fine dining, vibrant nightlife and shopping are your things, you must add at least 2 full days to your itinerary to spend in Beirut.

I decided to go on a self-guided walking tour of Beirut on my first day in the country. I wanted to see some sites and experience some of the Beirut’s life. It was wonderful!

I left the hotel around 11 am and I started walking until I couldn’t walk anymore. It was roughly 5 pm when I arrived back at my hotel. I just marked interesting things on my google maps and walked around the city.

If you feel like you need a bit more guidance, you can join a Beirut walking tour here:

• Beirut Bites Food Tour (food and walking!)
• Historical Walking Tour (focusses on history)
• 4h Beirut City Tour (incl. transport)
• 7h Beirut Tour (incl. transport so not that much walking)

I took my time, wandering around the streets, taking pictures and making video snippets. I had a long lunch and walked the whole Corniche as it was a lovely day (and got a sunburn!)

If you don’t like walking, Beirut now also offers a Hop on Hop off tour. Make sure to check it out here .

Day Trip to Sidon and Tyre

For my second day in Beirut, I choose to leave the city and go south. I took a day trip to Sidon (Saida) and Tyre (Sour). These two smaller cities are easily combined and make for a nice full day trip. I set out early, around 8 am and got back at my hotel in Beirut around 6 pm. 

I chose for local transport, mainly because I wanted to have my own experiences with local transport as many people use Beirut as a base, and explore the rest of the country from Beirut. And I must say: it is perfectly safe and doable. 

I found the minibusses not so comfortable though, and it took some time to fill them up. If you’re traveling in a larger group things might speed up a bit but overall, I was exhausted from a day of sightseeing by local transport.

I first went to Tyre and explored the Tyre Necropolis and the Roman Hippodrome. It was marvelous and I absolutely loved it. It was one of the (many) highlights of my 10-day trip to Lebanon and can highly recommend it. 

I continued to downtown Tyre where I visited another set of Roman ruins and had the best and cheapest lunch during my time in Lebanon. I’m actually contemplation going back to Tyre to eat once again at this small kebab shop.

After Tyre, I visited Sidon and the Crusader castle in town. I found it a bit disappointing and wandered around the Souk. You can also visit the soap museum but I choose to find the remote ruins of Eshmoun.

Road Trip Itinerary for Lebanon

The next morning was a Sunday and I made my way back to the airport early morning. I didn’t go to the airport to fly home, but to pick up my rental car!

On Sunday, all the rental car offices are closed so I had to go to the airport.

But this allowed me to drive through Beirut on the least busy day of the week. I compared prices for rental cars at Beirut airport here , and found the best rate for my road trip. 

Driving or Day Trips from Beirut?

Now, I hear you think: driving in Lebanon?

I think everyone and their mother will discourage you from driving in Lebanon.

But I did it and I actually found it quite easy. Y

es, Beirut was crazy hectic and I definitely recommend to avoid driving in Beirut. But otherwise, I found the freedom to explore more remote places invaluable.

It actually made my trip. 

Yes, I might have pissed some drivers off with my more than polite driving skills, but other than that, I don’t think it is that bad.

Day 3: Drive to Jbeil/Byblos

This day can also be done very well as a day trip from Beirut, I’ll give some suggestions at the bottom. But let’s assume you did like me and you rented a car, so I can continue my story.

I whizzed through Beirut, sweaty palms and cars overtaking me left, right and center. Yes, the first few miles were a bit intimidating but I soon got the hang of it and once I left Beirut behind, traffic numbers dwindled and I basically had the road to myself.

Jeita Grotto

One of the most see things in Lebanon and a mandatory stop on your Lebanon travel itinerary is Jeita Grotto. I contemplated skipping Jeita Grotto, as the entrance price is quite steep, but decided to do it regardless. And I’m glad I did because I absolutely loved it.

I parked the car for a small fee, got my ticket and hopped on the first cable car up the mountains. There, I had to store my phone, camera, and GoPro in a locker as filming or photography is not allowed.

I entered the Grotto which is basically a cave with a well-lit pathway through it, guiding you to one amazing formation of stalactites and stalagmites after another.

Some were free-standing, others formed sheets hanging from the walls, and yet another arose in the middle of the path. I was definitely wowed. You can walk all the way to the back of the Grotto to climb via a staircase to a viewing platform before you have to return the same way you came.

After this, we all got in a touristic train and were brought to the lower cave. Here we would make a small boat ride on the Grotto’s inner lake. It was only 10 minutes but absolutely spectacular.

Being out on the water, inside a grotto, surrounded by dripping stalactites was impressive.

The whole visit took maybe an hour or 1,5 hour but it was a quiet day. If the Jeita Grotto is busier, you might need to allocate more time for waiting in line to go inside or on the boat trip. I visited early morning before the crowds and the buses.

Cable Car to Our Lady of Lebanon

Another popular thing to do in Lebanon and usually combined with a day trip to Jeita Grotto is a ride on the cable car to Our Lady of Lebanon.

As I drove by in my rental car, the line up to the mountains looked impressive and I’m sure you have a spectacular view. However, when I was there, a big storm was rolling in from the Mediterranean and visibility was poor so the cable car wasn’t operating.

If you don’t like to rent a car and drive yourself, you can always hire a driver from Beirut who brings you to Jeita Grotto and the Cable Car. Make it a full day to include Byblos too.

The common rate seemed to be 100$ per day for a private driver. You can also do this as a day trip from Beirut, but you have to take the local buses and take a taxi to Jeita Grotto from the main road. 

Go on a guided day trip to Jeita Grotto, the cable car and Byblos with a licensed guide. Check for options here .

Explore Byblos

From Jeita Grotto, I drove straight to Byblos. I arrived around 2 pm and could already check into the Aleph Boutique Hotel . I picked it because it has free parking in front of the hotel and is situated right at the turn off of the main road.

And it looked absolutely ‘boutique’ and lovely. At their exorbitant breakfast, I discovered it has a 180-degree view of the coastline and the ruins of Byblos. I highly recommend this hotel for your Lebanon itinerary.

For the rest of the afternoon, I explored the old Souk of Jbeil and visited the castle and ruins of Byblos. I loved the relaxed vibe in the small city. On this Sunday afternoon, the small streets were packed with families having lunch, I heard music everywhere and the village was bustling with sounds and smells. 

I spend nearly 1.5 hours exploring Byblos Castle and its ruins which contain several layers of history, from the Phoenicians to the Romans, Greeks, and Crusaders.

After my visit, I walked to the old harbor, stopping at the St. John-Marc Cathedral and admiring the fierce waves crashing on the beach. I absolutely adored Jbeil and I wish I could have stayed longer.

If 1 day is all you’ll have, visit Jbeil and Byblos on a day trip from Beirut .

Day 4: Drive to Tripoli

Today, I intend to make good use of my rental car. I first went to Batroun and then visited 2 very remote Roman ruins in the mountains before I went to Tripoli.

If you’re not that much into Roman Ruins, I understand, but driving through the mountains was still spectacular. Below, I explain more about Tripoli and if you should go or not.

Batroun Lebanon

Batroun is known for its live and vibrant Souk and ancient Phoenician wall. I decided to stop there and check things out. As I walked from the car park to the sea, I encountered an abandoned maze of closed shops and restaurants.

Old wooden doors were shot and building works were ongoing literally everywhere I looked. I roamed around the empty streets, found the wall, looked at it and disappointingly returned.

Somewhere, I took a wrong turn and this landed me at the surprisingly lovely St. Stephan’s Cathedral which looked adorable with all the school children posing in front of it.

I spotted a sign that said: Roman Theatre so I had to check it out!

All in all, Batroun wasn’t that bad and I think when you visit on any other day than Monday morning, it will probably be much nicer.

It did allow me a peek into non-touristy Lebanese life, which I liked very much. I wouldn’t stay in Batroun though and maybe stop here only if you have time.

Roman Ruins of Bziza & Qasr Naous Temples

I set out in my rental car and headed for the mountains. The road was now empty and I could slowly meander up the mountain until I found the tiny hamlet of Bziza. There I stopped for 5 minutes to admire the Roman Temple. 

A bit disappointed by its size, I was hoping Qasr Naous would be more worth the detour and it sure was. Qasr Naous is a ruined temple complex situated high up in the mountains.

If the weather wasn’t so bad, the views must have been stellar. I loved how those two temples just sat there, abandoned and forgotten. I imagine it makes for a great picnic place in the summer.

1 night in Tripoli

I wanted to see Tripoli for myself. Some people might advise against visiting Tripoli because it might not be safe. I did not experience any safety issues in Tripoli. It felt like any other big city.

I stayed at an apartment in the Al-Mina neighborhood. The owner of Azur Apartments helped me park my car and I admired the lovely little apartment. If you feel like cooking yourself, this is the place to do it. Tripoli doesn’t have many accommodation options, so it is either Azur or the Via Mina Hotel .

I left my car in Al Mina and took a shared taxi to downtown Tripoli. I wanted to visit the Crusader castle and experience the Souk.

The Castle was absolutely impressive. Such a strong defense structure with all its courtyards and walls you can walk on. The views of the city are unrivaled and at the same time intimidating.

After the Castle, I tried to find my way around the Souk. There are several Mosques that are really beautiful but the one I found, I was not able to visit.

The others remained hidden behind a maze of small alleys and doors. It didn’t really help that it was pouring with rain and I had a long day. I found the soup Souk and bought some soap souvenirs for home.

Should you add Tripoli to your 10 days in Lebanon?

Good question! Out of all the places I visited in Lebanon, Tripoli was disappointing. Not that it wasn’t safe, I just felt out of place.

Downtown Tripoli is enormous.

The Souk area is a puzzle of small streets, closed doors, and grey buildings. I didn’t find any beauty in it. I’m sure, if you have a local guide and take your time to explore, Tripoli might unravel her hidden beauty. I just didn’t see it.

You can also visit Batroun and Tripoli on a day trip from Beirut. Find your driver or tour here .

Day 5: To the Qadisha Valley

It is time to hit the road again and head for the mountains. I left Tripoli behind and set out to Bcharre, a small village overlooking the Qadisha Valley.

I booked a 2-night stay at the Bauhaus Chalets in town, to explore the surrounding National Parks and explore the Qadisha Valley. 

As soon as I got closer, the road started to twist back and forth and slowly I sneaked up to a spectacular view of the Qadisha Valley. It was especially beautiful with the first apple blossoms on the trees.

Explore the Cedars of God

After check-in, I headed out again with my rental car and I make my way to the Cedars of God natural park.

This is one of the smallest parks where you can find Cedars, but it is high up in the mountains.

Although it was only 8 km (5 miles) from town, it took me well over 45 minutes to get there.

I soon realized I might have been too early in the season. Or the snow was still late in the season. The road was abominable! 

Potholes everywhere, small patches of sand and loads of snow at the side of the road. Finally, I arrived at a small ranger’s station and I asked if I could visit.

The ranger showed me how far I could visit and I soon realized it was a mission impossible.

The snow was waist-deep and only a small path for say 200 meters was cleared. I did get a tiny peak in the beauty of these majestic trees, especially with the snow on them. 

Explore Horsh Ehden National Park

After the Cedars of God, I returned to Bcharre and I continued to Horsh Ehden National Reserve. A much larger national park with a wide variety of flora and fauna. As I was creeping up the mountain, the sunny weather flipped. Clouds started to drift in.

The higher I got, the thicker the clouds got.

I parked my car at the ranger’s station, but it wasn’t manned, so I couldn’t ask for directions or walking paths.

Online, I had read there were numerous walking trails and the area around the parking lot seemed free of snow, so I decided to give it a go.

I first walked up a cobblestone path that was indicated as a fun walk for kids. A few steps in, I found several great learning opportunities, but the path quickly headed over rocks up the steep mountain.

The ground was slippery and more fog was rolling in. I decided it was a bad idea and I turned back.

I decided to head in the other direction and walked through a gate. The path in front of me was broad and flat. Not as interesting but luckily also not as challenging.

I knew I had to turn into the forest at some point if I wanted to walk a loop, but after 30 minutes or so, I could hardly see 100 meters in front of me.

A thick soup drifted in front of me. I couldn’t enjoy the view and could not even make out the top of the trees. I decided to turn around and leave the mountain.

Driving in the mountains of Lebanon

I arrived safely at my car and quickly got in. I was freezing by now and wanted to get off the mountain. The weather really took a turn for the worst and I slowly made my way down the mountain.

Heavy rain tormented my windshield and I could not see the road in front of me. It was one of the scariest things I’ve ever done.

In this area, the road twists and turns, the potholes are everywhere and markings on the road are nowhere to be found. I put the car to the side of the road and tried to calm down.

After 5 minutes, the weather got even worse and I decided to continue. I figured, as soon as I would make it below a certain altitude, I would be fine. And I was. 5 minutes later, the road dropped and the skies cleared.

Lesson learned: the weather can be very unpredictable and when it looks bad, you need to turn around before it is too late as it might get even worse.

Day 6: Hike in the Qadisha Valley

I spent most of the night before, contemplating if I should hike the Qadisha Valley solo. Until now, I had never hiked solo before and I did not know what the terrain would look like.

I was a bit scared of getting too tired and then still having to hike out of the valley. The night before, I went to check out Mar Lichaa monastery that would be my starting point.

I went to the look-out point and saw a car slowly drive down. I spent the rest of the evening googling and I found that there is a car park at the bottom of the valley.

It would mean I would have to hike out and return the same route, but I figured that would be a safe way to try my first solo hike. And so I went out!

Hiking Qadisha Valley

I did exactly so. I drove my rental car to the bottom of the valley, parked my car and followed the trail into the valley.

And it was lovely, I enjoyed the silence, the scenery, and the surroundings.

The water rushed with an extreme force down the stream, the trees stood tall above me, holding on to the valley’s walls. It was gorgeous.

I set out early in the morning, the sun came out and I had a lovely walk. I didn’t take any side tours or climbed any rocks or ledges.

When I arrived at Qannoubine Monastery, I took a break, taking in the silence of the monastery. I checked out the little shrine of Santa Maria a little bit further and then decided to head back. 

It took me nearly 3 hours to walk there and back again. I still had some energy left, so I also checked out the Saint George’s Church with the amazing views of the valley and the cliffs surrounding it. If you like nature and history, then I can definitely recommend hiking the Qadisha Valley.

Although the Qadisha Valley is quite a drive from Beirut, you can visit on a day trip too. I’d recommend a full day trip to make the journey out there worth your time.

Find the best Qadisha Valley Day Trips from Beirut here .

Day 7: Drive to Bekaa Valley & Explore Baalbek

After spending two days in the Qadisha Valley, it was time to move away again. I set out to the Bekaa Valley as I wanted to visit the ruins of Baalbek.

When I planned my trip, I just looked at the map and figured it was an easy 1 to 2-hour drive and I could easily manage it all on 1 day. 

I was wrong. I didn’t factor in that the road I saw on the map was actually a road over the mountains.

Snow-covered mountains, only open from June till September.

There was no way I could pass them. I decided on the alternative route over a smaller mountain range and not drive back to Beirut.

Tannourine Cedars National Park

This would allow me to stop at the Tannourine Cedars National Park. Maybe I was overconfident from the solo hike the day before, but I figured I could visit the national park and take a short hike and then continue my Lebanon road trip to the Bekaa Valley.

The trip from Bcharre to Tannourine was breathtaking. I had the road to myself and the air was bright and crisp. I set out early in the morning and slowly crept up the steep, windy mountain pass.

At a certain altitude, patches of snow lined the dirt road and I even took on a hitchhiking old man. 

Hiking in Tannourine Cedars National Park

Finally, I arrived at Tannourine Cedars National Park. I was the only one but the park ranger gave me a map and I happily stepped on the crisp snow.

I followed a path around one of the easiest and shortest walks in the park. It took me nearly 1.5 hours to complete it as the ground was very unstable as the snow started to melt, making the ground slushy and slippery. I even trotted through knee-deep patches of snow, hoping I wouldn’t lose the trail.

For me, it was quite the adventure. 2nd solo ‘hiking’ adventure in such conditions, while I was actually on a tight timeline.

But girl was it worth it.

I got to several viewpoints where I could overlook the rugged mountains, covered with tall standing cedars and other snow-covered trees. 

The sky was a gorgeous delicate blue, birds were chirping and I felt so blessed to be able to see such beauty. Conditions were not ideal but all the more beautiful.

Qalaat Faqra Roman Ruins

From Tannourine, I continued my journey inland. I figured I could follow the main road at Mzaar Ski Resort and then enter the Bekaa Valley there.

One winding road after another, passing through small villages and tiny cities, I finally arrived at the Qalaat Faqra Roman Ruins.

I figured this would be another great stop on my Lebanon travel itinerary.

But the weather flipped. I was quite high up in the mountains but it was getting a bit chilly. Clouds filled with rain drifted in and out.

The Roman Ruins of Qalaat Faqra are quite impressive as they are hewn from the rock. There are several ruins you can look at, but during my visit, I kept looking at the big mountain range in front of me.

That was where I was supposed to pass but I couldn’t see the top of the mountains.

I could see snow and fog. There was no way I could pass there.

Bekaa Valley

That morning, I left Bcharre at 8 am. I stopped a few times but it took me till 3 pm to arrive in Zahlé. I was so happy and relieved to finally be able to cross a mountain range and see the broad and green Bekaa Valley in front of me.

During this day of intense driving, I saw so much of the interior of Lebanon but it came at a toll. I felt a migraine throbbing underneath my templates and I felt like my face was burning up. I could feel my body protesting.

Baalbek Lebanon

I checked into my guesthouse in Zahlé, the Beit el Kroum Boutique Hotel, and contemplated what to do. Outside, the blue sky beckoned me to come outside.

Inside, my phone’s weather app would tell me bad weather was on the horizon for tonight and tomorrow. I would have 2 hours to get to Baalbek and explore one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world.

Quickly, I decided to head out and give it a try. I could always go back tomorrow if I felt I missed out on some things.

And that is how I ended up rushing through the Baalbek ruins. I arrived roughly at 4.30 pm and figured I had until 6 pm to explore. It turned out they kicked me out at 5.30 pm.

Exploring Baalbek Ruins

The plus side of this story was that I had the Baalbek ruins almost completely to myself.

I could roam around and take quick pictures without anyone in my view.

Which was perfect.

I tried my best to take in the site and the views but I did feel a bit rushed.

However, I did take my time to set up my camera for a few selfies at some of the greatest ruins I have ever seen.

By 5.30 pm, the guards kicked me out.

I couldn’t see the museum and the Temple of Venus but the things I did see, made me fall in love with Baalbek. It was perfect that I had the site to myself which allowed me to move quickly around and take in the history.

And I was glad I did it because the weather was perfect. The next day, it even snowed in Baalbek!

Day 8: Explore the Bekaa Valley 

But that evening and night, I felt my body revolt to the stress of that day. Or it allowed for a bug to settle in my stomach and disrupt my whole system.

I was cold and I couldn’t get warm anymore. And I couldn’t keep in any food. I rushed to the toilet every hour of the night, leaving me cold, weak and ill the next morning.

For me, I was glad to stay in such a homestay type of accommodation I stayed in bed nearly all day. Mostly because I felt too ill to go out but also because rain and hail were covering the Bekaa Valley.

Ruins of Anjar

At the end of the afternoon, I did decide to go out for a bit.

I drove to Anjar, only 40 minutes away and visited the ruins of the Umayyad court of the 8th century.

There Unesco World Heritage Ruins are remarkable because they only cover one period in time. They were not reused or repurposed by future generations.

It was convenient to park in front of the ruins and I could follow the grid and layout of the old city.

Sadly, my umbrella could barely hold up the constant stream of rain and hailstones, so I did a quick tour of the site. 

If you’re not ill and the weather is better, I recommend spending 1 to 1.5 hours here to explore the ruins, take in the old Grand Palace and walk the streets of Anjar. It reminded me a little bit of Pompeii even.

Zahle wine tasting

Because of the heavy rain, I cut my visit to Anjar short and returned to Zahle. Only 15 minutes out, the sky cleared up and the sun came out.

Just my luck. Instead of turning around and revisiting again, I decide to continue and stop at one of the famous wineries in Zahlé.

Chateau Ksara

The Chateau Ksara was on my route to my guesthouse, so I decided to check in and see if they were open . They were and I joined an English tour of the wineries caves.

This was really short but impressive.

The guide took us to the underground labyrinth of caves and niches, with barrels of wine lining the walls and bottles of wines stacked behind closed gates.

She explained that the monks used to produce so much delicious wine, that the higher power in the church ordered them to stop their commercial activities with the delicious wines.

They sold the winery and Chateau Ksara was born.

Tour Ksara Wine House

After the tour, we watched a video of the harvest and it was really an interesting twist on the other things I’ve seen so far in Lebanon.

All the while, I was contemplating to do the wine tasting or not. I was driving after all and it seemed like a bad idea. But I really wanted to taste the wine. In the end, I decided to choose safety over sampling the wine. 

My big tip for you would be to get a driver or take a taxi and drink and taste and sample as much wine as you can! I heard raving reviews about the wine at Chateau Ksara.

As the Bekaa Valley and Baalbek are one of those epic must-see things in Lebanon, there are numerous tours and day trips to Baalbek. Some combine a day trip with Anjar and a wine tasting in Zahlé. Check out the best tours here .

Day 9: Drive to the Shouf National Reserve

Although I wasn’t feeling much better, I had to leave Zahlé and the Bekaa Valley. My next stop would be the Shouf.

This mountain range is dominated by tiny villages and several national parks to see the Cedars.

I rested a bit and went to the pharmacy for some antibiotics and some ORS rehydration salts to prevent me from dehydrating.

With so many liquids coming out, I felt my bodies need to stock up on electrolytes and keep in some of the fluids.

My recommendation for you would be to leave early and explore as much of the Shouf National Park as possible. The Shouf consists of several different smaller parks, each with entrances at different roads. I tried to visit all of them but the weather and wintery conditions made it difficult.

Palais des Cedres Hotel

From Zahlé, I took the main road to Beirut for a while and was a bit overwhelmed by how busy it was.

After driving for nearly a week on small mountain roads, passing empty villages, the main highway was a bit of a shock.

This was also the first time I drove on the main road during mid-day so I was glad when I reached the turn-off to the Shouf and continue on the tiny mountain roads again.

I arrived at the Palais des Cedres Hotel and I nearly cried when I entered my room.

It was so beautiful, so warm and the intense smell of thick cedar wood was everywhere.

It sure helped they upgraded me to a royal room and I could see the mountains from my bed and balcony. Although I wanted to stay in and veg out, I decided to head out again and try to explore some of the Shouf Cedars National Park.

Shouf Biosphere Reserve Barouk Cedars Forest

The hotel is really close to one of the main entrances to the park. It was 5 minutes to the Ranger Station at Barouk National Reserve.

I needed to buy my ticket and I could continue by car.

Unfortunately, again, hiking was not possible. The ranger told me I could drive till the end of the road and look around, but then I would have to come back.

I didn’t quite get what he meant, as my google maps showed the road going up the mountains to Maasser Cedar Forest Shouf Biosphere Reserve and over the mountains to Kefraya but I soon found it.

But, I got in my car and followed the road.

I quickly climbed and soon the snow was lining the road again. The road twisted and turned up the mountains and fog was drifting in again. I passed a small patch of cleared snow where I could see a trail but I continued. Until I couldn’t go any further. 

The last few meters I drove on snow and the road wasn’t cleared. And then I hit a wall of snow. Well, I didn’t actually hit it but it was clear I couldn’t continue anymore.

The road was blocked by a mountain of snow. As it was half of April, I was surprised but it clearly shows that I am not used to the mountains.

After looking around, I returned the same way I came from.

Maasser Cedar Forest Shouf Biosphere Reserve

I still was slightly disappointed. I drove back to Barouk and took the valley road to Maaser El Chouf village.

Unfortunately, the main visitor center was closed or had vanished, so I drove up another mountain to reach the Maasser Cedar Forest Shouf Biosphere Reserve.

It was a bit busier here and there were several rangers in the hut. I could access this part of the park with the same ticket as in Barouk, so this saved a few Lebanese pounds.

One of the rangers walked with me and explained which path I could follow and where I had to go to see the oldest Cedar tree in Lebanon.

Oldest Cedar Trees in the world

The path was horrible. Patches of snow, mixed with slush and frozen puddles. I slipped and slithered up the path and tried to enjoy the scenery. The fog crept up on me and obstructed any views of the National Park and Forest.

I reminisced on the glorious sunny morning I had in Tannourine National Park and decided this wasn’t working. I’m still not sure if I saw the oldest Cedar tree. I did see several old and big cedars but I didn’t see a sign, so I think I haven’t seen it.

I retreated to the luxurious warmth of my hotel room and watched movies for the rest of the night.

If the weather is better or you visit during a different season, I highly recommend the several Shouf Cedar parks.

Although I didn’t see much of it, I could see they have good infrastructure, spacious parking lots and there were rangers at the post to guide you around the park.

Several trails were clearly set out and what I did see of the parks was well maintained.

I can’t wait to go back during the summertime!

Day 10: Beiteddine and Beirut Airport

I realize my Lebanon itinerary starts to sound a bit like: I was sick, the weather was bad, I didn’t do that much. I’m sorry for that but it hugely impacted the last days of my 10-day trip to Lebanon.

I’m sharing the things I did do or could have done to show you what you can do when you make your own itinerary but the truth is, not everything worked out for me.

After I left the Palais des Cedres with pain in my heart, I slowly made my way to Beirut airport. I wanted to visit the Beiteddine palace and then move to the coast and wait for my flight home from Beirut airport.

I wanted to visit the grotto of Beit Nazein, but I learned it was closed for the public until further notice.

Beiteddine Palace

In the morning, I drove to Beiteddine and was excited to visit this palace complex of Emir Bashir II of the Shihab dynasty (1788-1818). I wanted to see the courtyard, the stairway and the palace wings with my own eyes, but unfortunately: it was closed. 

So, I parked in the parking lot and contemplated what to do next as it was still raining and it seemed like the perfect indoor activity for my last day in Lebanon.

I wasn’t the only one who was disappointed, as several tour groups and family came to the gate to return disappointed.

Deir al-Qamar Village

I decided to drive around the valley, which offered lovely views and settle for a coffee at Deir al-Qamar. I stopped at Moussa Castle, a fairy tale whimsical make-belief palace by a guy with too much money but decided to continue.

Once in Deir al-Qamar, I was charmed by the buzzing lively feel of this small village. 

Flowers lining the streets, cute houses and shops and a romantic feel. I drove two circles around the village to find a spot to park my car, but I had no luck.

By now, I was quite fed up with the weather and the inability to do something fun and entertaining and the rain that I decided to give up and head to the airport.

If the palaces are open, allocate 1 to 2 hours to explore Beiteddine Palace and another hour for Deir Al-Qamar. Make that 2 or 3 hours if you include a nice lunch stop there. 

Beiteddine and the Shouf Valley is an easy and popular day trip from Beirut. Find the best tours and prices here .

Back to Beirut Airport

I went back to the airport. I found a Starbucks and gave in to my need to be near a bathroom and use high-speed internet. There , I am only human.

As we glided in the air, looking down on the bright lights of Beirut, I had a content smile on my face. Despite the illness, despite the rain and the last few days, Lebanon charmed me in a way I did not expect. 

I found the mixture of religions, opinions and natural and cultural sites to visit intriguing and surprising.

It left me already craving for more and I don’t rule out that I will return to Lebanon in the near future.

10-day Lebanon Road Trip Itinerary

I think I could have spent another week in Lebanon and not gotten bored at all.

For a first acquaintance, 10 days in Lebanon is a good amount of time to get a first taste. If you have less time, for example only 1 week in Lebanon, you can leave some of the activities out and still see a good portion of the country.

I hope I was able to show you how to arrange your own road trip in Lebanon and gave you plenty of practical suggestions on things to see and do.

Practical tips for your Lebanon Trip planning

As always, I like to leave you with some practical tips and advice to make planning your own Lebanon itinerary easier.

• I do recommend renting a car in Lebanon. Get the best rates and conditions and compare the best car rentals here .
• Lebanon’s tourism industry is up and coming but it is also a perfect independent backpacker country. If you do want to go sightseeing but want more guidance and let someone else take care of the logistics, book your day trip tour here .
• Bring US Dollars and pay with them and get the locale Lebanese Pound in return. No need to take out money from the ATM or exchange at an exchange office. The rate is fair and it is super easy.
• Many airlines fly to Beirut, like the nation’s MEA airline. I flew from Amsterdam directly with Transavia to Beirut but you can search for your flight here .
• Book your hotels in advance. Hotels outside of Beirut are not that common or well-advertised. I’m sure you sometimes can show up and get a room but booking ahead can help you a lot. I always use Booking but Hostelworld also offers nice budget accommodations too. Some unique stays can be found on Airbnb as well.

• Bradt Lebanon Guidebook is a good guide for information and practical travel tips. Purchase your copy here .
• Book your hotels in Lebanon via Booking.com or Hotels.com
• Book your direct flights to Beirut, Lebanon here
• Travel in style with your Lebanon Passport cover! Absolutely love these !
• Unfortunately, things can and do go wrong when you travel in Lebanon. World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Lebanon hotels for your trip

To make things easier for you, here is a list with the hotels I stayed at during my Lebanon trip. I recommend all of them wholeheartedly, so feel free to book your stay there too:

• 3 nights in Beirut at the J Hotel and Spa
• 1 night in Jbeil/Byblos at the Aleph Boutique Hotel
• 1 night in Tripoli at Azur Apartments
• 2 nights in Bcharre in the Qadisha Valley at Bauhaus Chalets
• 2 nights in Zahlé at the Beit el Kroum Boutique Hotel
• 1 night in Barouk at the Palais des Cedres Hotel
• Practical things to know before traveling to Lebanon
• Renting a car in Lebanon
• Tyre and Sidon day trip from Beirut
• Roman Ruins in Lebanon
• Epic Outdoor Adventures in Lebanon for Nature Lovers
• My Lebanon Travel Budget Breakdown
• 17 Amazing Things To Do in Beirut – Lebanon

Are you thinking of going to Lebanon? What is at the top of your must-do list? Or do you have a favorite place in Lebanon that you recommend? I’d love to read it, feel free to share your thoughts in the comment section below.

Author: Naomi

Hi Naomi I loved your blog about Lebanon! Thank you. It’s inspired me. I have been hesitating for some time to book a group tour due to cost and restrictive itinerary but didn’t imagine it could be a trip I could take independently. It is now. How much would you recommend budgeting for a 10 day trip (excluding flights?) Thank you. Samantha

Thank you, Samantha. I still haven’t added up all my expenses and I plan to write about the costs later on but Lebanon is not cheap. Accommodation outside Beirut can be a bit pricer but the food was affordable and sights too. In the end, it was worth every penny and with planning your own trip you have the freedom to choose a bit of luxury on one day and go cheap the next, whereas a group tour is always at the same level which adds to the higher budget. Either way, I hope you get to enjoy Lebanon too!

Thank you Naomi! I am starting to plan my trip now 🙂

Comments are closed.

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LEBANON – The most complete Lebanon itinerary: All highlights in 10 days (or 2 weeks)

Table of Contents

Planning a Lebanon road trip itinerary

Beiteddine palace tour, deir el-qamar tour, anjar umayyad ruins tour, baalbek roman ruins tour, adonis temple afqa highlight, nahr ibrahim valley roman ruins, byblos day tour, batroun day tour, faqra ruins tour, lebanon itinerary day 7: tripoli day trip, lebanon itinerary day 8: qadisha valley tour (and cedars of god), lebanon itinerary day 9: beirut city tour.

Lebanon is a small hidden gem in the Middle East and a beautiful destination for a 10-day trip. It’s just a 3-4-hour flight from Europe and thus a perfect destination for the May (or October) school holidays! I visited with my family (kids 13/16 years) and drove around the country for 10 days. Having seen a lot of the world, it takes real beauty to amaze me and that is something Lebanon has plenty of. It’s time to share my experiences in this Lebanon itinerary.

This Lebanon travel guide covers all its beauty in the best day trips so that you can efficiently see all the must-see places. Although Lebanon is a small country it has such a huge variety of highlights that each day will be different. Sea, mountains, Islam, Christianity, and ancient history but also modern lifestyle is what you find in Lebanon. Let’s have a look at what I think is the most complete Lebanon itinerary to experience all its beauty.

Before going into details of each day a few tips to plan your Lebanon trip efficiently.

• The best time to visit Lebanon is in spring or autumn. In summer it’s very hot and in winter there is a lot of snow up in the mountains. Of course, if you want to go skiing then winter is the time to go! I visited in late April when the weather was perfect with snow up in the mountains but warm enough to swim too at the beaches.
• Lebanon has just one international airport in Beirut which is easily reached by a wide variety of airlines. It’s just a 3-4-hour flight from Europe and you can connect anywhere in the world from there. From Europe you have connections all over the world. I arrived in the afternoon and I passed immigration in just 30 minutes but keep in mind that at busy times this might take longer. Check before travelling if you require a visa.
• Getting around Lebanon is best done by car. I love flexibility so when possible, I hire my own car. I got a good deal in Lebanon for a 4×4 SUV at just 48 USD a day. Traffic is chaotic, yes; but if you’re a confident driver you’ll manage. I drove 2 weeks in Thailand , a week in Mexico and 2 weeks in Tunisia . Lebanon was easy compared to these countries. You can also opt to hire a car with driver which should cost about 100-130 USD a day pending the distance. Public transport is not an option for this Lebanon itinerary as it takes you off the beaten track s . All sights mentioned can be put in Google Maps, which will take you there the most efficient way. Make sure to download them in case you won’t have reception.
• There are no major safety concerns (May 2019) in Lebanon if you follow this itinerary. Do always carry your passport as there are some military check points. I didn’t have to stop at any and the soldiers are very frienly and helpfull. The only region to avoid is north of Baalbek around the town Hermel and the area’s north and east of Hermel.
• You can do all trips from Beirut , but I advise to stay 3 nights north of Beirut to save time driving up and down. All day trips can be mixed of course but I recommend staying 3-4 nights in Beirut, then 3 north of Beirut and then back 3-4 nights in Beirut. I love luxury hotels and in Beirut I stayed at Le Gray Hotel (member of the Leading Hotels of the World ) and Le Bristol Hotel which are centrally located. The Intercontinental Mzaar in the mountains was my home north of Beirut but a hotel in Jbeil (Byblos) would be even more efficient.

Now lets explore Lebanon, a true hidden gem in the Middle East .

Lebanon itinerary day 1 – South Lebanon day trip: Tyre and Sidon

The first day trip from Beirut of this Lebanon itinerary is a long one but recommended to do the first day because if you run out of time you can add Sidon to day 2. Tyre and Sidon are two cities in southern Lebanon with a rich history and beautiful archeological sites. Unless you go wander around the modern parts of these cities, you can visit both the same day. Go early so you have time to make a short stop at the Temple of Eshmun,  just outside of Sidon too. I left Le Gray Hotel at 08:00 and arrived in Tyre at 09:15 which is VERY quick. I did speed 10-20 km/h as everyone else did.

In Tyre, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I recommend going to Al-Mina on the peninsula first as most tourists stop first at the Al-Bass Hippodrome. It’s possible to park near the entrance and if you are lucky you should have this site for yourself. There are beautiful Roman ruins, a cathedral, and parts of a Crusader castle. A visit takes just over an hour.

Now go to Al-Bass which is just a 5-minute drive. You could walk but it’s not a nice walk and you would loose to much time. Al-Bass consists of a Necropolis, triumph arch and a hippodrome from the Roman period . Here you’ll probably spend 90 minutes. Make sure to continue to Sidon for lunch at about 12:30.

Sidon, a tentative UNESCO site, is a beautiful coastal town with a crusader castle in the sea. You can park your car at the parking lot of the castle as they don’t mind you’ll explore the city after. Across the street there are various restaurants but Zawat for sure is good. After lunch you can explore the Sidon Sea Castle and walk through the old souks. Make sure to not miss the Dabane Palace, Nicholas Church, Khan al-Franj and, if you are interested,  the Soap Museum. The beauty of Sidon is the fact the souks are still in use as they were in ancient times. It’s great to just get lost but make sure you’re in your car at 16:30.

Before heading back to Beirut make a stop at the Temple of Eshmun. This site is free to visit and it’s very small and not much is left of it. The reason of the visit is that in the National Museum of Beirut they have beautiful finds from this site. In Phoenician time it was an important temple hence a visit should be on your Lebanon itinerary. From the temple it’s about an hour drive back to Beirut.

EXTEND YOUR TRIP: Split Sidon and Tyre into two day trips. You’ll have more time to relax or go swimming. Tyre has beautiful beaches to fill the 2nd half of the day there before heading back to Beirut. You can visit Sidon & the Temple of Eshmun on the second day.

Lebanon itinerary day 2 – Shouf valley day trip

The Shouf Mountains (and valley, also called Chouf valley) are located just 40 kilometers from Beirut and are a must-see destination. You can either go for a half day trip or a full day trip. I decided to make it a long half day trip to not make this Lebanon itinerary stressed. I drove first to Moukhtara Palace which is a place few tours go. This Italian style palace is still in use by the political Jumblatt family. You can’t freely walk around the house but a small tour of about 20 minutes is a must-do to learn about this family and assassination that took place.

MAKE IT A FULL DAY TRIP: If you want to do a full Shouf valley day tour you should now drive to the Shouf Barouk Cedar Forest. The reason I decided to not do this is that I would see cedar trees at the Cedars of God. If you like wine, you could also visit Château Florentine in the village of Majdel Maouche to make it a full day trip.

I continued to Beiteddine (Beit’eddine) which was once the center of power in Lebanon. The Beiteddine Palace (House of Faith) located there is the best example of Lebanese 19 th century Italian inspired architecture. A visit will take you 2 hours in spring and autumn as in some parts of the year the palace is in use as the president’s summer residence. Check with your hotel in advance if it’s open.

The last stop of the Shouf valley day trip is in Deir el-Qamar which is a beautiful small old town. It’s also possible to also make a stop at Moussa Castle museum first which has wax statues and a weapon collection. The town is small but very cozy. I wandered the small streets, visited the mosque and museum for about 30 minutes. After a delicious Lebanese lunch, I drove back to Beirut where I explored downtown Beirut by walking the Heritage Trail which started in front of Le Gray Hotel where I stayed. More on central Beirut on day 9 though, when there is time to walk this trail too.

Lebanon itinerary day 3 – Anjar, Ksara Vineyard and Baalbek in the Beqaa valley

It’s time to checkout of your hotel in Beirut today. As mentioned, you can do each trip from Beirut but if you follow this Lebanon itinerary, I highly recommend changing hotels. You can stay in Faraya in the Mzaar mountain range as I did or in Jbeil (Byblos). I choose the Mzaar Intercontinental as I had plenty of loyalty points to book a room there (read about my Bleisure trips to learn how accumulate those). Visiting two UNESCO World Heritage Sites meant a long day. I left Le Gray Hotel at 08:00 and I arrived in Anjar around 10:00.

Anjar is a ruined Umayyad trading city which was build in the 8 th century between Baalbek and Damascus (Syria). It’s located just 3 kilometers from the Syrian border. You’ll see remains of roads, a mosque, a hammam, a palace and housing of shops all surrounded by a thick wall. The city was in use just 30 years before it got destroyed, which makes it even more impressive. It’s not a huge site but also not small so plan 1-2 hours to see Anjar.

Next up is the only vineyard I added to this Lebanon itinerary: Ksara vineyard. You’ll pass it when driving from Anjar to Baalbek but if you want to make a tour, you’ll have to depart Beirut at 07:00. I only picked up some wine (a good tasting requires a full bottle) and had a quick lunch before heading to Baalbek.

I have seen many Roman ruins and the last one that amazed me was the Dougga Roman city when I made a two-week Tunisia road trip . Baalbek is a completely different ball game. Those ruins are the best-preserved Roman ruins I have seen and that says a lot. When the Romans arrived in Phoenicia half a century before Christ the city Baalbek was called Heliopolis. Various beliefs where mixed and worshipped. The temple and city complex was extended for over 300 years before it got abandoned. Most impressive is the Temple of Bacchus which is huge and decorated with fine carvings. To fully see the complex, you need 2 hours or more.

I was back at the parking lot around 17:00 and expected to drive to Faraya in about an hour over the mountain road (via Beirut would be 2-3 hours). That didn’t go as planned as just before the T-junction to Faraya (left) and Afqa (right towards the Ibrahim Valley) there was a military checkpoint and the guard didn’t want to let me go through. When I wanted to steer left, he put spikes up that would flatten my tires. I asked why I couldn’t go, and he said it wasn’t a security issue but the road to Faraya was covered in 8 meters of snow. Even a 4×4 wouldn’t get through so if you follow this Lebanon itinerary make sure to check for road closures! I had no other option as to drive the road to Afqa OR turning back and drive the highway to Beirut and then up to Faraya. The road to Afqa was a good choice. It was an amazing drive over the snowy mountains (see photos above with the snow wall). I arrived around 20:00 at the Mzaar Intercontinental as I made many stops in the snow to take photos.

EXTEND YOUR TRIP: From December to April the ski resorts are open so if you like skiing you can add an additional day to do some exercise. The best place to do this is Mzaar ski area at Faraya. Another option to extend this Lebanon itinerary by a day is to stay around the Ksara vineyard. You can visit other vineyards in the vicinety and fill a day with wine tasting . Best to hire a taxi for that day though!

Lebanon itinerary day 4 – Off the beaten track Lebanon: Ibrahim Valley

The Ibrahim Valley is a tentative UNESCO site but honestly, I don’t think it will ever make it on the list. It’s however a beautiful off the beaten track destination in Lebanon. I only saw a handful of local tourists in Afqa and for the rest nobody! There are several places of interest in the Nahr Ibrahim Valley worth checking out. Plan about 5 or 6 hours unless you’re coming from Beirut. Not every Lebanon day trip has to be a super highlight and that’s why this Lebanon itinerary is 10 days with the option to extend it to 14 days. I’ll list the must-see places of the Ibrahim Valley in order from Faraya. If you’re coming from Jbeil (Byblos), Batroun or maybe Beirut then follow it in the opposite direction. The fun of this day is also to admire the beautiful nature and pass through local villages to see how rural Lebanon is.

Set your GPS or Google Maps to the Adonis Temple in Afqa and drive there. Stop along the way where you want because the views are amazing. The valley has its name from the river that flows through it: The Adonis River, also called Abraham River or Nahr Ibrahim in Arabic. Adonis is the god of love, rebirth and beauty as the Phoenicians believed and was worshipped at the source of the river in Afqa and in Byblos where the river meets the Mediterranean Sea. Water flows from a cave which you can climb into. When snow melts in spring the stream is huge and has a lot of power but in dry times you can walk also into the cave. A beautiful site.

Now put your GPS to Yanouh where on the right side of the road you can visit the Mar Girgis al Azraq temple. There are Roman ruins and a newer Saint George church which is of special interest as it’s made of blue/grey stones. Now continue to Qartaba by pointing your GPS to Saint Sarkis Monastery located a few hundred meters downhill. It dates to the 16 th century. When I visited, I couldn’t find any option to visit the inside but the outside was worth a look too. Qartaba is also the place to get lunch as it should be halfway the day.

Next is the Mashnaka Roman temple which is spelled in a dozen or so varieties. Mashnaka (Souaneh, Lebanon) works is Google Maps though. The valley views here are amazing! Now it’s time to cross the Nahr Ibrahim River (put 34.077561, 35.724308 in Google Maps) and drive along the other side to the Roman aqueduct. This aqueduct is just small and isn’t even on Google Maps so put (34.063076, 35.653333) as coordinates. It’s worth a stop if you’re passing anyway and the views are still amazing there. After this I drove back up to Faraya and made a quick stop at the ruins in Faqra so I would save time another day.

Lebanon itinerary day 5: Byblos (Jbeil) and Batroun day trip

Byblos (now called Jbeil) is a coastal city in Lebanon north of Beirut. Founded over 7 centuries ago and thus one of the longest continually inhabited cities of the world. A visit of the heritage park takes half a day and best combined with Batroun which is just 20 minutes north. Byblos is an UNESCO World Heritage Site and Batroun a tentative one. Make sure to visit Byblos first especially if you like craft beer!

It was approximate an hour drive from Intercontinental Mzaar to Byblos where I parked near the entrance of the archeological site. You can put the entrance in your GPS and when close park in the first available spot as you’ll otherwise keep circling. Try to arrive around 10:00 which gives you time to do a Byblos tour to all the highlights, have lunch and continue to Batroun.

Byblos (Jbeil) was already inhabited in 5000 BC but from the Neolithic and chalcolithic time is not much left. The Phoenicians transformed Byblos to a walled city in around 2800 BC. It was their capital. The Phoenician alphabet used later by Romans and today by western civilizations was invented there.

The Byblos archeological site isn’t huge but for the long route through it you must count for about 2 hours. There points of interest include three major Phoenician temples, a Crusader fort , and a Roman theater (smallest I ever saw) with columns. Do read the explanations signs as many have drawings of how a certain place looked like centuries ago. It helps to understand the ruins. In the Crusader fort is a small exhibition but the most beautiful finds are in the National Museum in Beirut.

After exploring the archeological site go for a small stroll through the souks and maybe have a look at the harbor. For lunch I can recommend Fenicia just in front of the entrance of the site. After lunch head north to Batroun.

First set your GPS to Mseilha Fort which is a Crusader style fort on top of a rock (see photo below). Entrance is free and a visit doesn’t take long. I hadn’t seen a fort like this ever before, so it was a nice detour before heading to old Batroun. I parked my car near the Batroun souks from where I wandered through the old town which has also Phoenician origins. Strolling the narrow streets exploring the churches and other old building takes about 2 hours. The highlight is in the sea: a Phoenician wall. It was built to keep the tidal waves out and unique in its kind.

None of my trips isn’t complete without craft beer and I found some in Lebanon. Of course, I added Batroun to my Lebanon itinerary for its historical sites but the Colonel Craft Brewery was another reason. It’s located 5 minutes by car from the old central part and a minute walk from a nice beach. You can go swimming in the afternoon, enjoy craft beer and great Lebanese food before heading further. Or, drink more and stay overnight in Batroun.

SHORTEN OR EXTEND YOUR TRIP : If you have to shorten your trip by a day you could visit Byblos & Tripoli (only the old town) on one day. It will be a long day but it’s possible. You can also extend your trip by a day if you want to relax at the beach for a day. Visit Byblos one morning and relax at the beach, and Batroun the next day in the morning and relax at the beach.

Lebanon itinerary day 6: Nahr el Kelb (Jeita Grotto) day trip

On the 6 th day of my Lebanon itinerary I planned again a hotel change. I moved from Intercontinental Mzaar to Le Bristol Beirut in downtown Beirut. To not waste time, I drove through the Nahr el Kelb valley which is a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Lebanon highlights of this day don’t take to much time to visit unless the Jeita Grotto is very busy. Start at the Jeita Grotte in case you’re coming from Beirut or any other city on the Mediterranean coast.

Near Faqra is a beautiful natural bridge which was the first stop of the day. You can make a short hike there too but as it was early morning, snowy and cold I only had a quick look from the top. The second stop should have been the Roman and Byzantine ruins at Faqra. As mentioned, I already made a quick stop there after visiting the Ibrahim Valley. I did stop again though to make photos from a distance as the sun is shining towards the temple in the morning. Across the street I visited some minor ruins too. Plan an hour to explore the site; it’s not huge.

Now it’s time to drive to the best and most beautiful cave system of Lebanon: Jeita Grottos. Located in the Nahr el Kelb valley. It’s Lebanon’s national natural pride and the most beautiful cave I have ever seen after the Furong Cave at the Wulong Karst in China. Keep in mind that it’s also visited A LOT by locals so it’s one of the sights in Lebanon that does have waiting lines (unless you walk up but the cable car is easier). There is an upper cave which is accessible by tunnel from where you walk over boardwalks. The lower cave is only accessible by a 400-meter underground river cruise. There will be a waiting line of 1h+ in busy times at the lower cave. I skipped it as on Easter Sunday the line was 2h+. Photography inside is not allowed, the below two pictures were displays at the entrance. I spend 2 hours at the Jeita Grotto in total after which I continued.

Next up are 3 monasteries which are part of the tentative Nahr el Kelb UNESCO site. I first drove to the Our Lady of Louaize Monastery which is located behind the Notre Dame college. It’s an old monastery but I couldn’t find any open door to see the inside. Well worth a look at though. Next up was the Mar Abda de Mouchamar which Google Maps doesn’t know so put (33.944141, 35.628315) as coordinates. The last monastery is Our lady of Tamiche Monastery which has a beautiful patio and church. Visits take 15-20 minutes only in each place.

When driving back to Beirut make sure to stop on the road around (33.953877, 35.603424) where you can see a Roman aqueduct and a medieval bridge. Just further down the road (but park at the coordinates) are the Independence Stone Carvings which various armies that marched through left behind. One is from Napoleon. These places are also part of the tentative UNESCO site. You’re basically back in Beirut now so it should be 15-20 minutes to the hotel. I recommend staying at Le Bristol Hotel .

Tripoli is Lebanon’s second largest city and a Tripoli day trip must be added to any Lebanon itinerary. It’s a completely different world compared to Beirut. I left Le Bristol Hotel around 08:30 and was in Tripoli at 10:00. If there is much traffic it could be a bit longer. I made however one mistake by visiting first the old town and then the International Fair and El Mina. I missed lunch so first go to the Rachid Karami International Fair, then the Old Town and if you have time left El Mina.

Oscar Niemeyer designed the Rachid Karami International Fair in the late sixties for the World Fair in 1976. He also designed Brasilia and Pumpulha which I saw when I travelled 5 days in Belo Horizonte (Brazil). The fair ground was never finished as the civil war broke out in 1975. Today all the concrete structures are still there and not damaged by the war. The site is a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site and worth a 45-minute stroll. If you don’t like this kind of architecture, you can go direct to downtown Tripoli. Park at the Citadel (fort) of Tripoli.

When I arrived at the Citadel of Tripoli, I thought I was at the wrong place as it looked like a military base. That’s partly true as they use part of the building too. After exploring the fort, you can walk in a few minutes to the Izzeddeen Hammam located at the entrance of the souks. After that stroll through the souks and once you get hungry have lunch. If you follow the following order of sights (just put them in Google Maps) it will be most efficiently: AlKhayyateen Caravanserai, AlBourtasi Mosque, Khan El Askar (might be closed) and the St. George Church next door, Saray AlAteeqah, Old Ministry Building, Clocktower, Al Mansouri Mosque, Hammam Alnouri and Khan Al Saboun. There are more places to stop along the way just look for the plaques on the monuments. With lunch you easily spend 3-4 hours in old Tripoli.

Now you can choose to either drive back to Beirut or make a short visit to El Mina peninsula. You can stroll the corniche, visit the old railway station, and watch sunset. There are also plenty restaurants for dinner. I drove back to Le Bristol Beirut at 17:00 as I skipped lunch.

OPTIMIZE YOUR LEBANON ITINERARY : I choose to drive up and down to Beirut from Tripoli and the next day to the Qadisha Valley. This isn’t efficient as you will safe 2-3 hours of driving by staying overnight in Tripoli. I didn’t do that as only my daughter would join to Tripoli and to the Qadisha Valley my full family.

Just when I though Lebanon couldn’t get better it did! The Qadisha Valley is so different as all the other places and has unique history which made it an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It consists of 2 parts: The Forest of the Cedars (Cedars of God) and the valley with all it’s monasteries. These monasteries all originate from caves where hermits lived centuries ago. Even today hermits still use some. The main monasteries are: Qannubin Monastery, Monastery of St Anthony of Quzhayya, Monastery of Our Lady of Hauqqa, Monastery of Mar Licha. I didn’t have time left to visit Hauqqa but all other 3 are “easily” reached by car in a day if you spend up to 45 minutes in each maximum.

I recommend starting your Qadisha Valley day trip at 07:00 from Beirut. I drove in 2 hours to the Forest of the Cedars which is a holy place. It’s not a huge forest and 30 minutes there is enough especially if there is 2 meters of snow. Those trees, some said to be 3000 years old, are a pretty sight high in the mountains so don’t miss them. Now put in your GPS: Old Mar Licha Monastery which can be reached over a small road that goes down into the Qadisha Valley. It’s one of the better monasteries to visit.

Next up is the Qannoubine Monastery and you won’t regret having your own wheels as busses cannot go to there. You must follow the unpaved road along the river for 5 kilometers. A sedan will get you there and don’t worry if you only pass hikers and don’t see other cars. At the end of the road is Abou Joseph Bsharri restaurant serving delicious Lebanese food. Take an early lunch as on crowded days it fills up and you don’t want to lose time waiting for your food.

The Qannoubine Monastery is 500 meters down the road and 100 meters uphill. Don’t forget to have a peak at the St. Marina the Monk Chapel 200 meters further. The Monastery of Our Lady of Hauqqa is another 2 kilometer hike further down the path but that doesn’t work if you want to visit the Monastery of St Anthony of Quzhayya too. I recommend visiting Monastery of St Anthony of Quzhayya before heading back to Beirut . It has also a small museum on site. Each of the monasteries is different and all are recommended. I drove back to Beirut in 2 hours for dinner at Brew Inc. which is the best craft beer bar in Beirut.

I recommend starting in Beirut’s old district which has a 2.5-kilometer trail called the Beirut Heritage Trail. It’s marked with bronze medallions in the pavement so you can easily follow it. The trail official starts at the Beirut souks, but you can start at any place of course. You might want to park your car around the Al-Omari Grand Mosque where there is space along the streets. The Beirut Heritage Trail takes you to all the important places in old Beirut including mosques, churches, Roman, Byzantine and Phoenician remains. It’s a pleasant walk and you can have lunch at one of the restaurants around the clock tower or go to Badaro street before visiting the National Museum.

Now drive, or better use Uber in Beirut, to the National Museum. It has the best finds of all the archeological sites on display. Do note it’s closed Mondays. The museum is medium sized which is pleasant as you don’t need to spend hours and hours looking at pottery. The items are all very nice and diverse. Two hours will do. In the afternoon you can go to the corniche to see the Raouche Rocks and watch sunset. I walked back to Le Bristol Hotel from there.

In the evening you can go to Hamra district or to Badaro street. Badaro street is for the young generation with plenty of cafes, bars, and restaurants.

EXTEND YOUR TRIP: There are many more museums in Beirut which can be of interest to you pending your interest. You can easily spend another day in Beirut. Wandering the streets, visiting more museums or just relax.

I think you agree after reading this Lebanon itinerary that it’s a true gem in the Middle East. Visit now! Lebanon was on my radar for a long time but for some reason I never visited. It’s just a 3-4-hour flight from the Netherlands so flight time isn’t an issue. I’m glad I finally visited as Lebanon was full of amazing surprises. Roman, Phoenician, and Byzantine ruins mixed with old monasteries and beautiful nature are amongst the highlights. It’s a small country but each place of interest is different in Lebanon.

If you’re looking to extend your trip, I recommend reading my 7 days in Cairo (Egypt) itinerary , 2 weeks Jordan itinerary , or 2 weeks Oman itinerary . Even a Tunisia itinerary can easily be added. I’m sure you’ll have fun in the Arabic world!

Stay tuned for more stories and subscribe to the newsletter or follow CTB on social media ( Facebook , Twitter , Instagram including Instagram stories; on all social media you can find CTB @christravelblog) to get updated information.

Did you visit Lebanon too or do you have questions? Please leave a comment at the bottom of the page. Love to hear from you!

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LEBANON , Middle East

Complete lebanon itinerary: 1 week, all the highlights.

One of the beautiful things about travelling in Lebanon is, of course, the country’s outstanding beauty!

Another beautiful thing about travelling in Lebanon, is the country’s wonderfully compact size.

For Lebanon is small – tiny in fact – which makes seeing a lot of it, or at least the touristic highlights, more than possible within a short timeframe.

Because most travellers don’t realise just how beautiful Lebanon is, they sadly come to this country with a very limited amount of time to explore it.

And so, with that in mind, here is my complete Lebanon itinerary – a one-stop guide to seeing the best of this country in just 7 days.

I’ve actually given you 2 options in this article – the first works best if you want to base yourself in Beirut and simply day trip from there, while the second provides a complete circuit road trip if you plan to hire a vehicle in Lebanon.

Related Posts

• Complete Lebanon Packing List
• Travelling Lebanon? 25 Things You Need to Know
• Solo Female Travel in the Middle East – What to Expect!

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Lebanon Itinerary: Option A

Base yourself in beirut & day trip.

Day 1: Beirut Day 2: Jeita Grotto & Harissa Day 3: Cedars & Qadisha Valley Day 4: Tyre / Sour Day 5: Tripoli Day 6: Byblos & Batroun Day 7: Baalbeck & Beqaa Valley Keep Scrolling for All the Details…

Day 1: Beirut

Allow at least one full day to explore Lebanon’s wonderful capital city.

Hugely diverse and throbbing with a youthful vibrancy and energy, it makes a great introduction to this enchanting country.

While simply wandering the streets of the city is a good way to take everything in, there are several highlight attractions I’d recommend visiting too – these include the National Museum, Sursock Museum and Beit Beirut.

Wandering the glitzy Corniche area is also a must, as well as heading to The Pigeon Rocks to enjoy the incredible sunset views.

If you’d like to stay in this area of Beirut, the Hamra Urban Gardens offer good dorm beds and a welcoming, clean space.

Otherwise, the Gemmayzeh area of Beirut provides hipster cafes and galleries a go-go and nearby Mar Mikael is full of fun bars to hop between almost any night of the week.

And when it comes to staying in the heart of the action, look no further than popular choice – Hostel Beirut .

With a top location, a guest kitchen and some of the best-priced dorm beds in the city, this is a good spot to meet other travellers while you chill on the roof terrace.

Day 2: Jeita Grotto and Harissa

On Day 2 of your 1 week Lebanon itinerary, it’s time to head north of out Beirut to explore one of the country’s greatest natural wonders – Jeita Grotto.

An amazing underground network of seriously impressive caves, it’s easy to spend a few hours here – with a short documentary film, short cable ride and boat ride all included in the fun.

Probably the easiest way to get to Jeita Grotto from Beirut is using Uber and you can then use this app again to get you from the caves to the cable car that will whisk you up to Harissa.

Once there grab your camera and prepare to be amazed by the view!

Jeita Grotto and Harissa make for a short day trip, so set off early in the morning and you can be back in Beirut during the afternoon to explore the parts of the city you missed on day 1.

DISCOVER MORE: 10 Best FREE Things to do in Beirut

Day 3: Cedars & Qadisha Valley

Heading up to the north of Lebanon on day 3 of your itinerary is an absolute treat and will provide you with some of the most scenic views in the  whole of this scenic country!

A spiritual place for the Maronite Christians, the Qadisha Valley is chock full of ancient monasteries to discover and hikes to enjoy.

Heading on from here to the famous Cedar Reserve will give you yet more opportunities for hiking and a chance to enjoy the fresh alpine air as you ascend the mountain.

Depending on the time of year you visit, you may even have the option to ski in the Cedar Reserve or, at the very least, enjoy the views of the surrounding snow-capped mountains.

Either way, ensure you come appropriately dressed!

I visited both the Cedars, the Qadisha Valley, Bcharre and the Monastery of Kozahya as part of an amazing day trip with Explore Lebanon, who I highly recommend for their professionalism, flexibility and great customer service. Check out their website here .

DISCOVER MORE: Discovering Lebanon’s Cedars with Explore Lebanon Tours

Day 4: Tyre / Sour

On day 4 of your Lebanon itinerary, it’s time to head in the other direction and make your journey to the most southerly city in the country, the coastal delight of Tyre, also known as Sour.

This is probably my favourite city outside of Beirut, mostly because it boasts one of the most amazing beaches in the whole country.

Before hitting the sand however, do check out the UNESCO-listed Old Town, bustling souks and busy fishing harbour of this city, before stopping to marvel at the seaside Roman ruins that are still clearly visible.

After that, head to the beach to enjoy a relaxing afternoon, before grabbing a bite and a sunset beer right on the sand at local café Cloud 59.

DISCOVER MORE: The Best 1 Month Middle East Backpacking Itinerary

Day 5: Tripoli

Day 5 of my Lebanon itinerary sees you heading back north from Beirut to take in the ancient city of Tripoli, which feels very different to both Beirut and Tyre / Sour.

It’s easy and cheap to get either the Connextion or Tripoli Express buses from Beirut all the way to this northern city and once there, taking in the very different cultural vibe is an awesome way to pass a few hours.

Must-sees includes a visit to the Souks, the old World Expo area and the Citadel.

Do make sure you take your camera to Tripoli too. In many ways, a day trip here feels like stepping back in time.

DISCOVER MORE: 10 Epic Things to Do in Lebanon You Can’t Miss

Day 6: Byblos, Batroun & Our Lady of Noorieh Monastery

As you start to wind down on Day 6 of your Lebanon itinerary, it’s the perfect opportunity to head to the coastal towns of Byblos, Batroun and the nearby monastery of Our Lady of Noorieh.

Head to first Our Lady of Noorieh Monastery and enjoy the gorgeous views and peaceful ambience.

There’s a shop here which sells some wonderful products made by the nuns and is a great spot to pick up some delicious Lebanese food items such as Pomegranate Molasses, Olive Oil and Zatar to take home with you.

After this, swing by the quaint town of Batroun to take in the Phoenician Wall, souks and coastal views. Enjoying a homemade lemonade here at Hilmi’s is basically a rite of passage!

Supposedly one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, Byblos is your final stop today and a must-see on any Lebanese itinerary.

Again wandering the souks, cobbled streets, tiny harbour and taking in the views is the best way to soak it all in, before enjoying a sunset drink amidst the amazing setting of Kina Handcrafted Bar !

Day 7: Baalbeck & Beqaa Valley Wineries

And finally, on the last day of your Lebanon itinerary, it’s time for the piece d’resistance, the amazingly UNESCO-listed Roman ruins of Baalbeck over in the east of the country.

Close to the Syrian border, it’s best to check the security situation before heading here, or take a tour if you feel less confident.

Once you’ve wandered these sensational ruins, which are undoubtedly some of the most impressive in the whole of Middle East, it’s time to head to the nearby Beqaa Valley – Lebanon’s premier wine growing region to enjoy some tastings and a spot of lunch amidst the gorgeous natural surrounds.

Joe from Beirut Pub Crawl runs some great tours to Baalbeck and the Beqaa Valley. Check out his website for more info.

Got Some Extra Days for Your Lebanon Itinerary?

Why not check out the Beiteddine Palace, the Shoaf Reserve, the Aakkar region or some off the beaten track hiking adventures with Trekking Lebanon!

So there you have it, my perfect 7 day Lebanon itinerary for those who want to base themselves in Beirut.

If you’re more interested in hiring a car and staying outside Beirut, then read on to discover my 7 day Lebanon Circuit Tour…

Lebanon Itinerary: Option B

7 day lebanon itinerary circuit.

Day 1: Beirut Day 2: Jeita Grotto, Byblos & Batroun Day 3: Tripoli & The Cedars Day 4: Baalbeck & Beqaa Valley Day 5: Shoaf Cedar Reserve & Beiteddine Palace Day 6: Sidon & Tyre Day 7: Return to Beirut Keep Scrolling for All the Details…

Base yourself in the capital city and get your bearings.

Explore the city’s galleries, cafes, bars, museums and architecture.

Stay at Hostel Beirut or Hamra Urban Gardens .

Day 2: Jeita Grotto, Byblos, Batroun

Pick up your hire car and head out to the amazing cave formation of Jeita Grotto.

Afterwards, head on to enjoy an afternoon in one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world  – Byblos – before heading to neighbouring Batroun for the sunset and a drink at Rays right on the shore.

Stay at Mayyouli Guesthouse in Batroun.

Day 3: Tripoli & The Cedars

From Batroun continue north to Lebanon’s second city – the ancient town of Tripoli.

Don’t miss the soaks or the citadel here, before you continue on to the country’s premier ski resort – The Cedars.

Even out of season, you can enjoy some lovely hiking and top views from this gorgeous reserve.

Stay at the Tiger Guesthouse in Bcharre.

Day 4: Baalbeck & Beqaa Valley

From the Cedars make your way to the east of the country to explore the amazing UNESCO-listed ruins of Baalbeck – some of the most famous ruins in the whole of the Middle East.

After that, it’s time to kick back and soak in the views of the gorgeous Beqaa Valley at one of the area’s wonderful wineries.

Spend the night at these luxurious apartments in Faraya.

Day 5: Shoaf Cedar Reserve & Beiteddine Palace

After your night in the Beqaa Valley, it’s time to take a drive to the amazing Shoaf – an area of natural beauty and protection.

Enjoy a short stroll or opt for a longer hike here before heading to the amazing Beiteddine Palace.

Stay at Deir Al Oumara Guesthouse in Dier El Kamar.

LEARN MORE: Solo Female Travel in Lebanon : Is It Safe?

Day 6: Sidon & Tyre

On the penultimate day of your Lebanon itinerary head to the country’s south to enjoy the cities of Sidon and more importantly, Tyre.

Also known as Sour, Tyre has some bustling souks, a beautiful fisherman’s harbour and a delightful UNESCO-listed Old Town to wander.

After you’ve checked these out and seen the coastal Roman ruins, it’s time to head to hit the beach and enjoy the sun, sea and sand at one of Lebanon’s finest coastal areas.

Stay the night in Tyre at the beautiful El Boutique Hotel .

Day 7: Return to Beirut

And finally, on Day 7 of this Lebanon itinerary, it’s time to return to Beirut and sadly get ready to depart this gorgeous country.

And if you’re on a shorter time frame – don’t miss my guide to spending 48hrs in Lebanon and still seeing the best bits!

Just enter your email address below and I'll send it to you for FREE!

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Mini Travel Guide to Lebanon

When to Visit?

I highly recommend visiting Lebanon during the spring and autumn months of April through June and September to October.

This is when the pleasant climate will allow you to enjoy all parts of the country – hitting the beach and mountains in equal measure!

How to Get to Lebanon?

Most people arrive into this tiny country via Beirut’s international airport.

As I always, I use Skyscanner to find the best prices, which are often with MEA the national Lebanese airline.

Budget flights with Pegasus can also be found to Turkey, and there’s direct flights to Cyprus too.

5 Packing Essentials for Lebanon

#1 Lebanon Bradt Guide – An excellent resource when it comes to finding out the history of what you’re seeing in this country without the need for a guide, the Lebanon Bradt Guide is a must.

#2 Head Lamp – Great for taking into Roman Ruins, Jeita Grotto or just dealing with the powercuts you may experience. I love my Black Diamond Storm , which served me super well in Lebanon.

#3 Sun Hat – Trips to the beach, the mountains, the monasteries and the ruins will mean many hours in the hot sun of Lebanon. Do yourself a favour and bring a wide-brimmed hat to protect you. I love this Hello Sunshine design.

#4 Long Thin Trousers – While Lebanon isn’t a super conservative country overall, you’re unlikely to feel comfortable in some areas walking around in anything too short. As such a pair of long, thin cotton or linen trousers provides the perfect attire for this hot country.

#5 Walking Shoes – Coming to Lebanon and not getting out for a good hike is like going to Switzerland and not eating chocolate. As such, I highly suggest bringing a pair of good walking / running shoes so you can enjoy this beautiful country at its best.

Travel Insurance for Lebanon

Alternatively, if you’re a long-term traveller, digital nomad or frequent remote worker seeking travel health cover, check out Safetywing’s Nomad Insurance policies.

PIN IT TO PINTEREST!

So that’s it folks, my complete Lebanon itinerary and your one-stop guide to seeing the best of this county in just 7 days!

Have you visited Lebanon?

What was your favourite destination?

Please fill me in via the comments box below…

Creator of Big World Small Pockets, Stephanie Parker is a travel addict! Originally from Jersey in the Channel Islands, Stephanie adventures the world collecting tips, advice and stories, to share with a smile

4 thoughts on “ Complete Lebanon Itinerary: 1 Week, All the Highlights! ”

Hi Steph, Is it possible to visit the Palestinian people in Gaza before or after Lebanon.? Thank you for this wonderfully evocative article.So what to go there.

Hi John – what to say to this question?! Gaza is an area of great political instability and I would certainly do your research and consult your national foreign office before even thinking about going there. In terms of linking with Lebanon, Gaza is neither in Lebanon, nor does it border it, so I’m confused as to why you link the 2? You’ll need to learn about Isreali border controls and what having a Lebanese and / or Isreali stamp in the passport will mean for your future travels. This is a very complex question in a sensitive region.

Hi! I am wondering if you might have thoughts on which of your two travel options would be most budget friendly? I am mainly wondering about the costs of transportation – care hire for a week versus day trip car hire. I’m doing about a week in Lebanon with a friend and would like it to be a leisurely trip so in some ways the idea of going back to Beirut each night sounds like a more relaxing ‘home base.’ But budget is also a deciding factor. Thank you!

Hi Darin, thanks for your comments. It’s always hard to give budgets for people because it depends on the sort of places you like to stay and how well you bargain on the day trips. Renting a car will likely be cheaper than taking multiple day trips if you feel up to dealing with the Lebanese driving! Otherwise Uber can be a handy option to do trips closer to Beirut – like Jeita Grotto etc. Local buses also run from Beirut up and down the coast to places like Tyre / Sour, Tripoli and Byblos. This would be your cheapest option by far, with maybe a combination of Uber thrown in to some of the other places I suggest away from the coast. Try to negotiate an accommodation deal if you are staying in Beirut a week. Hope you enjoy 🙂

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Lebanon travel guide: a 2-week itinerary

By Joan Torres 58 Comments Last updated on April 25, 2024

This is a compelling travel guide to Lebanon that shows how to visit the Levantine country during the crisis, including where to exchange in the black market. It also includes things to do, how to move around, where to stay and more.

Despite its tiny size, Lebanon is the most diverse country in the Middle East, a nation that chaotically combines both Arab and European Mediterranean culture, with their love for good wine and the most exquisite food in the region, without never losing their Arab essence.

Lebanon, however, is not in their brightest moment.

A deep economical crisis fuelled by the port explosion and also COVID-19 has left an impoverished country with terrible inflation, and an absolutely desperate population.

As a traveler, Lebanon has changed a lot, the crisis is particularly palpable but that should not stop you from visiting such an alluring country, which is also desperate for foreign currency .

This guide contains travel tips for Lebanon, as well as a complete itinerary.

In this Lebanon travel guide:

Table of Contents

• Traveling during the crisis
• Power shortages
• Useful books
• Travel insurance
• Moving around
• Day 1,2,3 – Beirut
• Day 4 – Byblos
• Day 5 – Zahlé
• Day 6 – Baalbek  
• Day 7, 8 – Tripoli
• Day 9, 10 – Kadisha Valley
• Day 11 – Sayda & Mleeta
• Day 12 – Tyr
• Day 13 – Go off-beat – Lebanese-Israeli separation wall
• More Information

our recommended travel insurance for Lebanon

IATI Insurance is the most versatile insurance for any destination, including Lebanon.

🪪 Visa for traveling to Lebanon

Most nationalities can get a free 30-day visa on arrival at the airport in Beiru t , which is extendable for 2 additional months.

You just get an easy, friendly stamp, that’s it, and it’s valid for multiple entries.

💻 Internet and connectivity in Lebanon

Wi-Fi connection has improved over the last few years, but it’s still not the best, it tends to fail in most budget hotels, and that’s why I recommend buying a SIM Card.

One company I used was Alfa , their internet packages costing the equivalent of around 20USD.

Get a VPN for traveling in Lebanon

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Lebanon. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

Read: A travel guide to Palestine

💰 How to travel in Lebanon during the crisis

As mentioned, Lebanon is immersed in a hugely deep financial crisis, and below are the things that might affect you as a traveler.

1 – Need to know about money in Lebanon during the crisis

In Lebanon, the official currency is the Lebanese Pound (LBP) .

The official exchange rate versus US $ is 1 USD equals 1500LBP .

That’s the official (and old) bank rate. However, because of the crisis, the official rate in the black market is today:

1 USD = 27,000 LPB

The Lebanese pound has devalued more than 15 times its original value in just a few years, it’s absolutely crazy.

Lebanon travel tip – I recommend you download Lira Exchange on your smartphone, an app that gives you the current black market exchange rate.

However, for some reason, Lebanese banks like to keep the old rate.

This means that you should never ever use your credit card in Lebanon, never pay by card, and never withdraw from an ATM, never ever because you’ll get the old rate.

Lebanon is today a cash economy, bring all your money in cash, don’t use your credit card. In the hypothetical case you run out of money, ask someone to send you cash via Western Union or similar, but never without your debit card.

How to exchange money in the black market of Lebanon

They call it black market but basically, the black market for exchanging money in Lebanon is anywhere, including the official money exchange offices which can be found everywhere, especially along Hamra Street in Beirut.

Which currencies do they accept?

You can exchange Euros (€), US dollars, or British Pounds, among others.

If the Lebanese Pound has devalued more than 15 times, does that mean that everything is 15 times cheaper?

No. The currency devaluation has brought massive inflation too.

For example, before the crisis, a bottle of beer in a supermarket used to cost 1,500LBP. Today, you can buy it for 15,000LBP.

2 – Need to know about power shortages in Lebanon

One of the biggest consequences of this unfortunate crisis for the Lebanese people is their shortage of electricity. When you travel in Lebanon, you’ll see that power cuts occur very often, every day.

As a traveler, if you only stay in fancy hotels and eat in top-end restaurants, the power cuts won’t really bother you, since pretty much all use powerful generators.

However, in cheaper hotels, as well as outside of Beirut, power cuts occur pretty often.

By the way, one top travel tip for Lebanon is not to order meat from certain cheap restaurants, since their fridge might not be always on due to the power cuts.

3 – Is it safe to travel to Lebanon during the economical crisis?

Lebanon has never come without its own issues but this has always been one of the safest countries in the Middle East , a country home to a huge cultural and religious diversity, where there’s never been a place for extremists.

In the last couple of years, however, since the unfortunate crisis started, many travelers are questioning the country’s safety, claiming that traveling to Lebanon isn’t safe anymore, but I strongly disagree.

Crime has always been pretty insignificant in Lebanon and, despite that many Lebanese are in urgent need of cash, it still remains low, and there are no travel reports telling otherwise.

Public demonstrations

Since the crisis started, the only place or moment of potential violence has been during the street protests. If you bump into a public demonstration, it’s recommended to stay away from it.

Moreover, one of the most tangible legacies of the Lebanese Civil War , is that many people in Lebanon have guns at their homes, and many still like to carry them outside of their respective houses.

Once, I took a shared taxi in Beirut , from Hamra to Burj Hamood, and one of the passengers was carrying a gun, yet, nobody seemed to care about it.

This is the reason why in most public demonstrations, some demonstrators have guns, and they tend to like shooting into the sky. Being around those people is, obviously, dangerous.

🛫 How to get to Lebanon

How to travel to lebanon by air.

The national airline in Lebanon is Middle East Airlines (MEA) , which has several connections across Europe and the Middle East.

Moreover, you can also fly to Beirut International Airport from Paris (Air France), Frankfurt (Lufthansa), Barcelona (Vueling), Istanbul (Turkish and Pegasus) and pretty much any country in the Middle East .

How to travel to Lebanon by land

Lebanon shares a border with Israel and Syria.

• Traveling to Lebanon from Israel: The border with Israel has always been closed, not possible to cross it.
• Traveling to Lebanon from Syria: It’s fully open and very easy to cross. We use it all the time for our group expeditions .

For more information, read my Syria travel guide .

How to travel to Lebanon by sea

Apparently, the ferry from Cyprus to the northern city of Tripoli isn’t running anymore but you can take a ferry from Tasucu, Port of Mersin (Turkey). However, there isn’t any reliable information online regarding departure timings so overlanders should just show up in Tasucu.

Travel reports are more than welcome 🙂

📚 Useful books for traveling in Lebanon

Lebanon travel guide by bradt.

This is the most up-to-date travel guide to Lebanon. I am a Bradt Guides fan because all their guides are extremely insightful, both from a local perspective and also, because they give plenty of tips for independent travelers which help you easily plan your itinerary for Lebanon.

Middle East Travel Guide by Lonely Planet

It has only one chapter about Lebanon but, at least, the information here is updated.

🚑 Travel insurance for visiting Lebanon

Lebanon is one of those countries where you must travel with insurance, as it is a wild place where people drive crazily.

I recommend IATI Insurance  because:

• Plans for all budgets.
• Covers all countries in the Middle East, including Syria and Iraq
• Full COVID coverage
• It covers senior citizens too
• Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount

🕌 The country: people & culture

For me, the highlight of traveling to Lebanon is by far, the Lebanese people.

However, I am not talking about their kindness and hospitality – since that would be falling into the classical cliché one can say about any country in the Middle East – but I am talking about the cultural diversity.

There’s no other country – at least that I am aware of – where there can be so many groups of people living in such a tiny space.

Shia, Sunni, Catholics, Orthodox and Druze, but also Armenians, Palestinians, and Syrians.

From Hezbollah areas to Christian districts inhabited by European-like people and Sunni women wearing the niqab , the cultural mix in Lebanon is so chaotically mixed that it can’t be defined as a whole, and that’s what Lebanon is about.

Which language do they speak in Lebanon?

The official language in Lebanon is Arabic.

English is widely spoken in Beirut among well-educated Lebanese, especially in the districts of Hamra and Gemmazyeh.

Outside of Beirut, English is less spoken.

French is also spoken among a tiny part of the Lebanese population.

🍲 Food in Lebanon

Lebanese food is a Mediterranean cuisine with influences from both the Middle East and the French colonial era and, as in Spain, Italy or Greece, olive oil is the base of any dish.

Typically, most restaurants serve mezza , an array of small dishes similar to the Spanish tapas, which includes both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.

From the classic  hummus,   kibbeh (a local steak tartar), kebabs and   syadye  (rice, fish, and almonds in a gravy sauce) to a tasty olive oil of the standard of any southern European country and a strong wine culture, Beirut is home to the best food in the entire region.

Read: Iraqi Kurdistan travel guide

🛺 How to move around Lebanon

Everything in Lebanon can be reached in less than 2 or 3 hours.

Except for the northern mountains, where you might need to stay overnight, if you wanted, you can visit the entire country on different day trips from Beirut .

However, in order to enjoy all the places to their fullest, I really recommend spending some nights outside of the capital.

Traveling around Lebanon by public transportation

Lebanon is a very easy country to move around.

There are public buses and mini-vans going to almost every corner in the country from Beirut, where there are 2 main stations named Charles Helou and Cola Station . Charles Helou is ideal for traveling to the north, whereas Cola is to the South.

For more information about these 2 stations, check my Beirut Travel Guide and for more details about how to reach each city in Lebanon, check the Itinerary Section on this post .

Travel around Lebanon by taxi

If you can share the costs with other travelers, traveling by taxi around Lebanon is relatively cheap and pretty convenient, since most places can be reached from Beirut on a day trip.

One easy option would be calling an Uber, but I recommend getting in touch with a local taxi company. One I tried is located in Hamra street . They have fixed rates for going anywhere in Beirut.

Self-driving in Lebanon

You can also rent a car, no problem.

Just be aware, however, that the driving in Lebanon is pretty insane, but definitely not more than in Saudi Arabia , Iraq and any other country in the Middle East .

As per rental car companies, some travelers recommend a local company named Mike Rent a Car , but Hertz or Europcar are also available.

📍 Lebanon travel guide: a 2-week itinerary

Here you will find the best itinerary for Lebanon.

It might be a bit challenging to include all of these places in just 2 weeks but, if you plan ahead, it is totally feasible.

Day 1, 2 – Beirut – The most liberal city in the Middle East

What can I say about Beirut that I haven’t said already?

The Lebanese capital is the most westernized and liberal city in the Middle East (outside of Israel), only comparable to Tehran and a city full of contrasts and owner of deep and interesting history.

Beirut is composed of several neighborhoods, each one with its own subculture, so different from each other that, when you are wandering around them, it looks like you are in a different city, from the hipster neighborhood of Gemmazyeh to Hezbollah areas, Armenian, Christian, refugee camps and fancy districts with the most glamorous stores and the best restaurants in the region.

For more information about Beirut, read my article: A travel guide to Beirut

Where to stay in Beirut

Budget Hotel –   Embassy Hotel  – This is the cheapest hotel in town. The rooms are getting quite old but, at this price, you won’t find anywhere better. The location is great, however, in Hamra, a very cool area to hang out.

Backpacker Hostel –   Hamra Urban Gardens – Located in the main Hamra Street. It offers both suite and dorm rooms with a seasonal outdoor pool and bar.

Mid-range Hotel –  O Monot Boutique – Strategically located at the heart of Beirut, this property was highly recommended by many because of their amazing facilities especially their rooftop bar with a panoramic view of Beirut.

Top-end Hotel –  Radisson Blu Hotel – If you are looking for a comfortable place which has a delightful design, a good restaurant and other various facilities, this 5-star hotel is a perfect choice. Located in Dunes shopping center and 5-minute walk away from the beach.

Day 3 – Byblos – The native home of the modern alphabet

With 8,000 years of history, Byblos is considered one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and the place where the first inscriptions containing the modern western alphabet were found.

Byblos derives from the Greek word bublos , meaning papyrus , as the town was the stopping place for the Phoenicians who shipped papyrus from Egypt .

Besides a super interesting museum that explains the history of the creation of the alphabet, in Byblos you can also visit a crusader castle from the XII century, built by the Franks, a restored souq, a beautiful Mediterranean harbor full of restaurants, where you can eat seafood feasts, and some archeological sites containing mainly Roman ruins but also from many other civilizations, from the Neolithic settlements 8,000 years ago to Phoenician, Egyptian, Greek and Ottoman.

Book a tour to Byblos from Beirut It also includes Jeita & Harissa CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Byblos from Beirut

Byblos is around 50km from Beirut. Buses depart from Charles Helou station.

Where to stay in Byblos

Byblos can be reached on a day trip from Beirut but, in case you wanna stay here, here’s a few options:

Budget Hotel – Sea Valley – The cheapest hotel in Byblos is a very decent aparthotel. 

Mid-range hotel – L’Hotel de mon pere – With stunning panoramic sea views and really awesome breakfast, this super pretty modern hotel serves the best quality in Byblos, at the lowest price. It is really close to the beach and even closer to the Old City of Byblos, so you can’t ask for more!

Top-end hotel – Byblos Sur Mer – This boutique hotel is at the most privileged location in the whole of Byblos, next to the ruins, on the seaside and at the heart of where the exquisite social life in Byblos is, which consists of eating at the seafood fancy restaurants that compose the harbor.

Day 4 – Zahlé – The face of Lebanon you didn’t know about

What I loved about Zahlé was that, even though it is a Lebanese city located in the heart of the Bekaa Valley, it is more similar to the villages of Mediterranean Europe than to Lebanon itself, as this city, with a Christian majority, is famous for its wineries and for its restaurants, serving the best mezza in the whole country.

In Zahlé, you can’t miss Berdawini , located just outside of the city, a green area with a river flowing, plenty of high-quality restaurants, slightly pricey for my taste but delicious.

When I went there, it was not only full of Lebanese people from the middle-upper class but also, there were plenty of Western diplomats escaping from Beirut for the weekend.

I also recommend you go to Ksara Winery , the oldest and most famous winery in the whole country.

I always prefer visiting small, traditional wineries, rather than big corporations (check my Kakheti travel guide ) but I have to admit that the wine I tasted here was excellent. Their tour was OK but there wasn’t any need to book it in advance.

Book a wine tour from Beirut which includes 3 different wineries in the Beqaa Valley CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Zahlé from Beirut

Zahlé is on the way to Baalbek, so you should first take a bus to a town named Chtoura. From there, you can get on a second bus to Zahlé.

I got it at Cola Station but there may be a direct bus from Charles Helou station.

Where to stay in Zahlé

There is no cheap accommodation in Zahlé: the most budget accommodation starts at 70USD, so if you are on a budget, you should spend the night in Baalbek or go back to Beirut.

Mid-range Apartment Hotel – Berdawni Apartments – This apartment-hotel is nothing outstanding but it really fulfills its function, with very comfy beds and the best location, right next to Berdwani river, the highlight in town. It is a good value money for money option and, in any case, you won’t find anything cheaper!

Top-end Hotel – La Place Hotel – Located in the old part of town, people love this hotel because it manages to combine the old and traditional with very modern facilities and exquisite decoration. The breakfast is great and they have the purest and kindest Middle Eastern service.

Day 5 – Baalbek – The most impressive and off-the-beaten-track Roman ruins

Lebanon travel tip – Pay the entrance ticket in Lebanese Pounds (LBP), not in USD, since they will give you the official bank rate, meaning that you’ll pay no more than 1 dollar to enter the site. Before the crisis, the entrance fee was $15

Visiting Baalbek is one of the best things to do in Lebanon, a city that has some impressive Roman ruins, built on a giant scale and often considered the most important in the Middle East and, controversially, one of the least visited off-the-beaten track Roman ruins in the world, even lesser visited than Palmyra in Syria , which used to receive hundreds of thousands of visitors before the war.

The temple of Jupiter and the temple of Bacchus are the buildings that dominate this stunning architectural masterpiece.

Seriously, these Roman ruins are just outstanding and, when I went there, I had the ruins completely to myself.

Book a tour to Baalbek from Beirut the easiest way to visit the site with no hassle CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Baalbek from Beirut 

Baalbek is 90km from Beirut.

From Cola Station, there are buses going to Chtoura, situated half-way, a town from where you should take a second bus to Baalbek.

Where to stay in Baalbek

Even though you can visit Baalbek on a day trip, I strongly recommend spending one night there to see the ruins at sunset time.

Budget Hotel  – Jammal Hotel – This is the most budget hotel in Baalbek but you can’t book it online. It is OK for 1 night. 

Mid-Range Hotel  –  Palmyra Hotel  – This is, perhaps, the most famous hotel in the country and the reason is that it has never been closed since it was opened in 1874. it has hosted famous people such as Nina Simeone and the President of France It is also located next to the Roman ruins. I personally think the hotel is absolutely overpriced, since there hasn’t been any renovation for decades.

Day 6 – Tripoli – The most traditional Lebanese city

Tripoli is the second biggest Lebanese city, a city that would probably fit in what you think are the Lebanese standards, with its beautiful old souq of spices, ancient medieval architecture, and a citadel from where you get fantastic views of the city.

In Tripoli, a city famous for its sweets, live the Lebanese people who have the famous Arabic hospitality, as it’s impossible to be wandering the streets, kind of lost, without several locals offering you their help.

This is a city to get lost in around its narrow alleys and an old city belonging to the XIV century.

Furthermore, you can’t miss the fortress of Raymond de Saint Gilles, built in the XI century and the lovely neighborhood around the harbor.

By the way, you probably heard that the U.S. Embassy describes Tripoli as a dangerous city to travel to. Why is that so? Since the Civil War, there have been one-off clashes between Sunni and Alawi Muslims who reside in the neighborhoods of Bab al-Tabbaneh and Jebel Mohsen, respectively. Throughout the years, these clashes have killed several people.

This is a one-off conflict happening in a specific area, far away from the city center. It’s a fight between two small districts and doesn’t go beyond.

The rest of the city is totally cool and safe. However, since I’m an extremely curious human being, I also went to Jebel Mohsen . And what can I say? Life there was merely normal. Again, clashes and bombings happen once a year, not more.

How to get to Tripoli from Beirut

Located 80km, there are buses leaving from Cola Station continuously, as well from Charles Helou.

Where to stay in Tripoli

There are very few options in Tripoli but these would be the most popular:

Budget Guest House –  Haddad Hotel– The facilities and rooms are very old but the staff is a lovely family that will give you a very charming welcome and a great, traditional breakfast. With an awesome location, close to the old city, this is the best place for budget travelers and backpackers. Online booking not available. 

Mid-range Hotel – Via Mina Hotel – Being the top rated hotel in Tripoli, Via Mina has a kind of rustic style but with very modern facilities at the same time. It is located right in front of the sea, has a great pool and the staff will bless you with great hospitality.

Day 9, 10 – Kadisha Valley – Lovely Christian mountain villages

If you either want just to relax, eat good food, visit beautiful Christian monasteries or to go hiking, the Kadisha Valley in Lebanon will always be the perfect place for you.

Kadisha means ”holy” and owes this name to the fact that this valley is home to some of the most ancient communities of monastic Christians  in the Middle East.

In case you don’t know, monasticism is a way of life for which the person (in this case Christian monks) renounces everything to devote himself completely to spiritual work.

The valley is full of natural caves, difficult to access, that once served as places of isolation for the monks living lives devoted to Christ.

How to get to Kadisha from Tripoli (or Beirut)

If you come from Beirut, you will have to go to Tripoli first.

Once in Tripoli, there are buses leaving from 9am to a small village named Bsharri, which is a great base to explore the rest of the valley. For coming back, the last one is at 4:30pm.

Where to stay in Kadisha Valley (Bsharri)

Kadisha is one of those places where you really should spend one night at least, especially if you come by public transportation. Otherwise, you will just have 1 hour to explore it entirely.

Budget Guest House – Tiger Guest House – This is an ideal place for budget backpackers and, basically, the only cheap accommodation in town. Everything is very simple but the family is lovely and very helpful.

Mid-range Hotel – Bauhaus Chalets Apartment – Breathtaking views, a very accommodating owner, and pretty modern facilities, this hotel is pretty good, given the low range offer in Bsharri.

Day 11 – Sayda and Mleeta – Hezbollah territory

Sayda is a small city located 40km from Beirut. Slightly conservative, Sayda is a nice place to visit on a day trip, wandering around its labyrinthine, covered souq, full of cafés where the Lebanese are sitting outside, looking with expectation at the few foreigners that pass by.

Perhaps, the most iconic building in the city is the castle, built in the XII century, located on a tiny island just 80m from the shore, whose walls turn into a beautiful orange during the sunset.

Mleeta, the Museum of Hezbollah

A fantastic day trip from either Beirut or Sayda is visiting the Mleeta Museum, aka the Hezbollah Resistance Museum .

Hezbollah is a Shia militia and armed group created in Lebanon during the war against Israel.

They don’t like to be called militia, however, but they consider themselves a resistance organization against a common enemy named Israel.

The area around Mleeta was their headquarters and stronghold during the war and today, they have built an amazing museum where you can visit the underground tunnels they used to hide in, as well as some captured Israeli tanks and artillery.

The museum only costs a few $ and it includes a guided tour with a member of the militia.

While it’s true that his explanations are pure propaganda, the guides are open to absolutely any question, and they are actually very pleasant people. A must-see.

How to get to Sayda from Beirut 

To get to the south of Lebanon, Cola Station is the best and only option.

Where to stay in Sayda

Sayda isn’t famous for its accommodation. To be honest, I didn’t stay here but came on a day trip from Beirut. In any case, if you plan to stay here, these are the most feasible options:

Budget / Mid-range Hotel – Yacoub Hotel – A very old hotel from 1920, Yacoub is located very close to the old city and the beach, the main city’s tourist attractions. However, many people have complained about cleanliness, especially because it is not a cheap hotel for what you get.

Mid-range Hotel – Al Qualaa Boutique Hotel – This boutique hotel isn’t bad but, for what you pay, the experience should be way better. The location is unbeatable, next to Sayda Old Fort and, overall, it is in a very cute building and the breakfast is just great. However, people complain about small details, like power cuts, the shower was not working and a large etcetera.

Day 12 – Tyre – Your beach destination in Lebanon

The most southern city in Lebanon, Tyre brags about being the place where you find the best beaches in the country.

In summer, every day, tons of Lebanese come from Beirut to spend the day and chill at its beaches and eat awesome seafood at the many restaurants that are found around the harbor.

In Tyre, you also find a castle, Roman ruins, a corniche, and a beautiful and colorful harbor, full of seafood restaurants.

How to get to Tyre from Beirut

Tyre is 90 kilometers from Beirut and buses leave from Cola Station.

However, you should first take a bus to Sayda and, from there, take the second one to Tyre.

Where to stay in Tyre

In Tyre, accommodation is super expensive. I didn’t stay there but, if you are a beach lover and you can afford it, this is the most popular hotel:

Mid-range Hotel – Asamina Boutique Hotel – Tastefully furnished and with really cozy rooms and comfortable beds and located in the old city, very close to the sea, this is one of the best boutique hotels in the country. They serve an amazing traditional breakfast, with really fresh products and the staff are just extremely accommodating. I think this is the best option in Tyre, better than any of the other resorts, which kind of lack of personality and authenticity.

Day 13 – Go off-beat – The wall that separates Lebanon from Israel

Both Lebanon and Israel have been in continuous war for several decades and, today, diplomatic relations between both countries don’t exist, since they still consider each other to be enemies. This is one of the most sensitive borders in the world.

These two Middle Eastern countries share a 79-kilometer border. For the most part, it is unreachable, as it’s located too far from the road. But I was told that there’s one area where you can actually get close to it. I liked the idea pretty much, so I decided to go there.

Visiting it is an adventure, as the whole area is full of military facilities and soldiers from the United Nations, who are guarding the border.

You need to be very cautious when visiting it. I was there by myself, with a camera, and I got arrested. If you wanna read my full story, check out this article: The day I was accused of being an Islamic State spy .

Please note that this is a Hezbollah area, which means that a permit is required . It’s very easy to obtain and you can get it at the police station in the city of Sayda.

They give it to you instantly but remember that a permit makes you eligible to enter the area and it doesn’t mean that you can take pictures or walk freely along the wall.

How to get to the Wall from Beirut

Be aware that it is not recommended to get there by public transportation, as you will trigger the suspicion of the Hezbollah Army.

It is not about walking around the wall but just that tourists never go there, so seeing a dude wandering there by himself is kind of weird, according to their eyes.

As I said, I got arrested when I was there but, in part, it was because I had a camera hanging from my shoulder.

Going there on your is your own responsibility but, if you decide to go, here’s how to get there by public transportation.

From Beirut, go to Cola Station and take a bus to Sayda. From Sayda, take a bus to Nabatiyeh. In Nabatiyeh, you need to take a shared taxi towards Kfarkela. You have to drop off as soon as you see the wall. Please note that you may have to wait for over an hour for the taxi to be completely full.

❗ More information to complement your Lebanon itinerary

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Lebanon destination

• Beirut Travel Guide
• Solo Female Travel Guide in Lebanon
• The day I was accused of being an Islamic State spy
• Is Lebanon Safe

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

• Iran Travel Guide
• Iraq Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Oman
• Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
• Syria Travel Guide
• Palestine Travel Guide
• Yemen Travel Guide

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East .

58 comments

Wow, Lebanon looks beautiful! I like the mix of elements it seems to have based on your photos. I’ve always been a fan of the food too 😉

Hey Shannon, thanks for your comment. It’s a very underrated country and, the mix of elements you say, is what makes the country great ;9 ª

I am Lebanese!!! And i’m so happy you enjoyed your trip to Lebanon

Really? That’s awesome! It’s one of my favorite countries 🙂 !

I’m so glad I just stumbled on your blog. I am a Syrian/Lebanese American traveling to Lebanon for the first time in a few days. I have family in a village east of Tripoli named Aalma, I have yet to locate them but I do know that is where my family came from before migrating to the US. I will be spending a week traveling across Lebanon, a journey I have dreamt of for a long time coming.

Not to keep you for too long but I wanted to thank you for shedding light on Lebanon. A country which is mistakenly given a bad reputation due to strict travel warnings from my government.

Hey man! That’s amazing that you are going on a trip to Lebanon to know more about where your family comes from. Are you going to stay with some relatives? Please, do let me know if I can help you with anything. Cheers,

Hey, do you think I can show up at the cheap hotels in Tripoli and Baalbek and there will be a room available? By the way when you speak about Zahlé you say it’s called Berdawini but it’s Berdawni.

Hard to say, man. I went during low season and one of the hotels in Baalbek was fully booked… If there’s the option, I would book in advance!

Wanting to travel to Lebanon do many people speak English? Do I need a guide? If so what’s the charge. And where is the airport? Close to what country

Hi Linda. Most educated people speak English. You don’t necessarily need a guide, it’s up to you. The airport is in Beirut.

Amazing Joan. What a special place.

Is it possible to arrive by boat from Cyprus? And how much is a visa?

Yes, it’s possible and visa is free

Hey i am planning a one week Lebanon. Is it possible to cover all the famous destinations within one week?

Hi, maybe you could cover Beirut, Baalbek, Byblos and Tripoli, yes, why not.

Can all these be done as day trips? The hotel in Tripoli is expensive.

hi, do you think having my wedding in LEBANON (BERUIT) is a good idea/

Sure, why not 🙂 ?

Hello there,

Your blog about Lebanon is really great ! My parents are lebanese and Im going there for the 1st time this summer. I really liked your itinerary. I was wondering if we needed a private driver to go from one place to another when we leave Beirut, since there isn’t really public transportations outside of Beirut. For example, I want to visit the cedars, and I would also like to go from byblos to Baalbek. Cheers!

Hello! There is public transportation all over the country, you don’t need to worry about anything. Only to the cedars, you may need to hire a taxi, including the taxi. In the article itself I give plenty of transportation tips, like how to get from each city to the other

Hey Joan Thanks for your blog! I enjoyed reading it. I’m going to Lebanon for eight days, so far I plan to stay in Beirut for three nights, nearby Chouwen lake for two nights and then to Byblos and/or Tripoli. Do you think I’m trying to cram too much in? I’d love to hear any thoughts you might have on that plan. Thanks

Hi Madeline, 8 days is good enough for what you want to visit and I think you can even visit both Byblos and Tripoli, spending 1 night in each.

we are looking for a great in -Lebanon travel organiser to essentially fix all elements of our trip for us. Maybe not the flight from the UK but everything else. 8-10 days. Can you recommend either the best local company for that or even one based here in the UK looking to come in either May or October.

Many thanks for this blog.

Hi Keith, I don’t know about any specific travel agency for Lebanon, sorry. I did everything independently

Fab information! Do you know if having a Lebanese stamp in your passport will stop you from entering any countries – and if so, which?

Thanks! Emily

Hey Emily, no, it won’t stop you from going anywhere. Please, refer to this for more information: https://againstthecompass.com/en/avoid-israeli-passport-stamp/

Hi there, I enjoyed reading your blog. We’re going to Lebanon from the UK for two weeks in October. We’re planning on spending a week in Beirut, and maybe three nights in Byblos and Batroun. Does this seem a good way to divide our time? Thanks!

Hi Ellbin, it’s all right, but try to save one day for going to Baalbek at least!

Hi Joan, Just a few questions as you seem pretty familiar with the middle east. Will it be an issue entering Israel with visas from Sudan, Kurdistan and Syria? Am planning a trip to cover Lebanon, Israel and Jordan early next year and am considering adding on Kurdistan or Syria. Any ideas on itineraries. Will have to do at least one flight from Kurdistan and also from Lebanon to Jordan if not crossing through Syria.

Hi Melody! I suggest you check out this post 🙂 https://againstthecompass.com/en/avoid-israeli-passport-stamp/

Hi! I just booked my tickets to go to Lebanon in September. I’ll stay there for 2 weeks! I’ll spend about one week in Beirut (visiting some places from there), and then I’ll explore the Q. Valley and do lots of hiking. Thanks SO much for this information, it’s been very helpful! I also love the Middle East. I’m getting ready to go to Israel (second time) with my kids :). We’ll spend more time in the North this time. Blessings!!!

Thank you, Laura, have a great time in Lebanon!

Hi Joan, I read your blog and a couple of others and booked a trip to Lebanon a couple of months ago and was really exited. However, I have just read that if you have the exit stamp into Jordan on your passport you won’t get passed border control (even when flying from the UK) in Beirut. We went to Israel and Jordan in 2018 so I have the entry, exist and “residence for one month” stamps in my passport. Do I need to cancel my trip? We are due to leave on Sunday so I’m not really concerned we won’t be able to go. Thanks, Alex

P.S. I have already read your blog “avoid Israeli stamp” but there was only one stamp on the passport photo in this blog. We have two which I assume is entry and exit as we left and then returned to Israel. Surely these would be the stamps you would get if you entered and exited the country from anywhere?

Where did you enter and exit from, via airport or by land?

Hi Alex, a Jordanian stamp is fine but you won’t get into Lebanon with an Israeli stamp. Just change your passport, report it lost or something, probably cheaper than cancelling your trip.

Hi, please advise if it is still safe to go to Tripoli, I supposed to meet my engaged and get married there next month…I will wait for him at Beirut airport and then go to tripoli….

Yes, Tripoli is very safe

I’ve been to Lebanon a year ago and agree with most of what is said, except for food and accommodation because I was hidted by locals.

Naqoura and the very South are a gem undisturbed by big hotel complexes. A permit us indeed needed but not because it’s un Hezbollah territory but because it’s UNIFIL zone. You do have to get it in Salida but it takes a while and the process is quite opaque. Plan in advance if you can

Sorry about the typos, I should have read before posting.But I guess the text can be understood. And it’s Saida, not Salida, of course

Dear Joan, Thank you for your excellent information on Lebanon. A remark and a question: – The text of LEBANON TRAVEL GUIDE: A 2-WEEK ITINERARY appears only in Spanish (English flag not working) – Is it OK to get visum at Beirut Airport if passport contains stamp from Iran? Thanks.

Thanks for telling me, I really appreciate it. It’s been fixed now 🙂

Yes, no problem to enter Lebanon if you have an Iranian visa or stamp.

Hello Joan, This is a request that I take the liberty to put on your blog. As part of a master class in photojournalism with the National Geographic magazine I am looking for a ‘story’ in Beirut. For this I need to find a local guide to ‘develop’ this story. To show me around Beirut, make the contacts etc. Not so much the tourist sites but the life itself, after the explosion. I would be very grateful for your suggestions.

Thanks for the info. As of Oct. 29, a Covid test is no longer required.

Many thanks for an excellent blog post! Great to know about bringing currency to exchange before visiting Lebanon. I am visiting Lebanon for the first time in May for two weeks. I intend on booking a hostel online in Beirut to base myself for day trips for the first week and then go hiking around Kadisha Valley and spending time around Baalbek before flying onwards.

My question is – approximately how much $US/day would you recommend bringing over with you? I plan on staying in hostels/budget hotel, using public transport where possible and doing a bit of solo hiking. Just wanted to know a ballpark figure so that I don’t find myself short and have to use my debit or credit card and deal with the terrible exchange rate offered by the banks.

Hi Sam! I think you need around $50 a day, so I’d bring the equivalent of 70 a day, just in case! But it’s always hard to say. There are so many restaurants and night bars in Beirut, so you also need to think about that!

I was thinking about this itinerary, private tour, two people, hotel 3/4 only breakfast, if is possible italian speaking guide: 1 arrival beirut 2 beirut 3 Jeita Grottoes – Harissa – Byblos 4 Tripoli-Ehden 5 Valley of the Cedars – Baalbek -Zahle 6 Anjar – Beittedine – Deir al Qamar 7 Tire – Sidon 8 Beirut – Italy Greetings. Ilario giacometti

Thank you so much for this fantastic post! I was wondering how late are the last buses from places like Byblos and Baalbek since most of the hotels are expensive/booked out? Thanks again for making such a great page!!!

Hi Dhruv, I am not entirely sure, maybe around 7pm?

Hola Joan. Gracias por tu gran e interesante y profesional información de tu blog. De todos los países que visitas En cuanto a Líbano.. no es conveniente llevar euros? Se usa más dolares? Gracias

Hola Poli, en general, puedes cambiar de euros a libras libanesas sin problema alguno.

Sin embargo, hay hoteles que solo aceptan pago en efectivo y en dólares.

Lo que resulta mejor es llevarlo todo en euros y para el hotel, cambiarlos allí mismo a dólares. La tasa que ofrecen es mucho mejor que si compras dólares en Europa.

Lo que yo hago es llevar todo en euros, y lo cambio todo a libras o a dólares.

Hi, I´ve seen some comments and foregin governments advising not to go to Baleek. Is there any threat of doing this? Seems like a very touristic place. Going to Lebanon in october.

Hi Simon, it’s fine, it’s just that in that region there’s been local issues related to drug trafficking

Hi this is an awesome resource thanks so much for putting it together. Just wondering what the weather is like in October ( first couple of weeks). Want to go when it’s hot. Thanks

October is autumn, not super hot but pleasant

Hi, Do you still recommend going to Lebanon in March?

Beirut and more north than that should be fine to travel

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Lebanon Road Trip Guide 2024: A 1-Week Itinerary Through All the Highlights

The author goes through a dream Lebanon road trip itinerary to explore this Middle Eastern country highlights in just one week.

With just an area of 10,452 square kilometers (4,036 sq mi), Lebanon is a country that you must visit. Lebanon is actually the oldest country name in the world, remaining unchanged for over 4,000 years. Recently, National Geographic declared it as one of the world’s oldest countries.

Below I will present a guide to a 1-week road trip in Lebanon.

Day 1: Beirut

When your plane lands in the “Beirut International Airport”, it is best to rent a car and start your week in beautiful Beirut. 

Beirut is the capital and largest city of Lebanon. Greater Beirut has a population of 2.2 million, which makes it the third-largest city in the Levant region and the thirteenth-largest in the Arab world.

Beirut is a gem on the Mediterranean coast and one of the oldest cities in the world; it emerges in records kept by the ancient Egyptians. There is a lot to see in Beirut.

Head to the downtown of Beirut where the famous blue mosque and trendy Beirut souks are located. Then, take a stroll along the Corniche and check out the famous Raouche Rock which is a natural landmark that formed after a big earthquake hit the area in the 13th century. 

You can enjoy a cup of coffee with the view of the rock on the many cafés that surround the rock. Then, head to Hamra (by car or on foot) and have a nice traditional Lebanese lunch. I recommend Café Em Nazih because it is very affordable and extremely delicious and authentic. 

Then, head to the famous “American University of Beirut” and check its beautiful campus. The university has a great Archaeological Museum and art galleries that host a variety of exhibitions and events. Then, head to Ashrafieh and check the tallest building in Lebanon “Sama Beirut”.

To finish off the day, have some dinner and drinks in the lovely and quaint bars and restaurants of Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael.

Day 2: Jounieh / Jeita / Byblos

Start your car and head to Jounieh in the early morning. Grab a Manoushe on your way there from any shop along the highway. Manoushe is a must-try popular Lebanese breakfast and is eaten on the go.  Try the za’atar, cheese, and keshek manoushe! 

Jounieh is a coastal city in the Keserwan District, about 16 km north of Beirut. Head to the famous village of Harissa where the “The Shrine of Our Lady of Lebanon” is located overlooking the bay of Jounieh.

You can take the gondola lift, the Téléphérique, from the city of Jounieh to Harissa and enjoy a breathtaking view. 

After that, head back down and drive to the popular Jeita Grotto which is just 15 mins away. The Jeita Grotto is a natural wonder and was one of the top 14 finalists in the New 7 Wonders of Nature competition. Jeita Grotto is actually the longest cave complex in the Middle East (9 kilometers long). You can take a short ride in a rowboat in the lower cave and discover this wonderful landmark on the way. 

After seeing the grotto, head to Byblos (35 mins away) where you will be spending the night. Make sure to book a hotel on the beach ahead of time. To save time, stop by a shawarma place on the way and order endless amounts of chicken or meat shawarma which are to die for!

Byblos (Jbeil) is one of the 20 oldest cities in the world, and it has been constantly inhabited ever since it was formed in 5,000 B.C.  Byblos is linked with the history of the diffusion of the Phoenician alphabet. When in Byblos, take a stroll through its old stone cobbled street (souk) where they sell everything from traditional embroidery to souvenirs and hand-made jewelry.

Also, do not forget to check the well-kept Byblos castle which was built by the Crusaders in the 12th century from indigenous limestone and the remains of Roman structures. If you do not have time on this day, check the castle quickly the next morning before heading to Batroun as they open pretty early (8:30 a.m). 

Extra Tip: If you want to do something else, you can head to Baatara gorge waterfall which is 40 mins away from Byblos. The waterfall is an impressive natural wonder and plunges 255 m (837 ft) down the Three Bridge Chasm, which is a limestone formation formed as a result of millions of years of erosion. Geologists say that the rock formation is around 160-million years old and was present in the Jurassic period.

Day 3: Batroun / Chekka

Batroun is only 15 mins away from Byblos and is definitely the place to be. Head to the Phoenician Wall and grab a coffee or breakfast and go sit down on the wall and enjoy the gorgeous view. Then, head to the beach for a swim/tan day in the cyan blue waters of Batroun.

The weather in summer is so beautiful and perfect. Visit the free joining beach and lay there. You can order fresh fish and delicious appetizers and beers at the joining kitchen. After lunch, have a walk in the old Batroun souks and stop at The Colonel Brewery, which is a hip, dog-friendly bar on the beach with live bands, surfing, and seafood. 

Later, head to Chekka where you will be staying the night (hotel or camp). Chekka is a beautiful place with huge and tall cliffs and caves by the beach. While in Chekka, check Saydet el Nouriyi Monastery (Hamat, Lebanon).

Day 4: Anfeh / Tripoli 

Head to Anfeh which is another beach town and is known as the little Greece of Lebanon because it has white and blue houses and resorts all over. Enjoy a morning tan in Anfeh and grab breakfast by the sea.

After, head to Tripoli where you will be staying the night. It is 18 mins away by car and is filled with things to do. 

Tripoli is known for its delicious food and desserts. Visit Al-Mina in Tripoli which a beautiful place with pretty alleys, old architecture, and bright colored walls. Have lunch in one of the Mina restaurants which range from small seafood shops to big restaurants with extravagant menus that sell fresh seafood.

Then, visit the Hammams in old Tripoli (Trablos), which are old Turkish baths. Hamman Al Jadid is Tripoli’s best-kept Hamman (not operational but worth the visit). Also, check Khan Al-Saboun (Soap Khan) where you can buy olive and olive-oil-based products which include a wide range of soup (even a soap made of gold). 

Later, have a stroll in the old Tripoli souks where you can see the traditional coffee and Tripolitan Ka’ak vendors. Do not forget to try the pastry and dessert; there is a pastry shop on every corner in Tripoli. Try the Baklava, Maamoul, Daoukiyeh, Owaymet, Kallaj, and my two favorites; Znoud El Sit and Halawet el Jibn.

Finish your day by checking out the Tripoli Expo (Rashid Karameh International exhibition) at sunset. The Rashid Karameh International exhibition center looks abandoned, but it is a breathtaking place designed by the famous Oskar Niemeyer. 

Extra Tip: If you have time or an extra day (during summertime), discover the four small islands offshore of Tripoli. The Palm Islands were declared a protected area because of their status of haven for endangered loggerhead turtles, rare monk seals, and migratory birds.

The Palm Islands Nature Reserve is open to the public between July and September.

Day 5:  Bcharré and the Qadisha Valley

The Qadisha Valley, a Unesco World Heritage, is home to the legendary Cedars of God, the most highly valued building materials of the ancient world. 

The trip to the mountain village of Bcharré is very scenic and takes you through the most gorgeous views of mountains and snowy slopes and a spectacular view of the Qadisha Valley (also known as Kadisha Valley) .

Bcharré is home to the famous poet and author, Gibran Khalil Gibran. If you are a big fan, head to the Gibran Khalil Gibran museum which houses the content of Gibran’s studio in New York, including his furniture, his manuscripts, his personal belongings, 440 original paintings, and his private library. This museum used to be a grotto for monks seeking shelter in the 7th century and now is Gibran Khalil Gibran’s tomb and museum. 

After that, head to the Cedars of Lebanon (Cedars of God) which is one of Lebanon’s most beautiful nature reserves and home to the oldest Cedar Forest. Near the reserve is the Cedars Ski Resort which is located in the Bsharri mountains, North Governorate. It is Lebanon’s oldest ski area and home to Lebanon’s first ski lift, built in 1953.

One of the most amazing Lebanese experiences is checking the snow wall in the Cedars during the summer. The snow can sometimes stay until September especially in Qurnat as Sawda’, which is the highest point in Lebanon and the Levant, at 3,088 meters above sea level.

The historic Qadisha valley offers a great opportunity for hiking in the beautiful and quiet valley trails and isolated mountain landscapes.

Related read: Road Tripping Oman

Day 6: Baalbek / Aanjar

The next day, head to Baalbek in the Bekaa district, which is home to the most extraordinary archaeological sites in Lebanon and is a UNESCO World Heritage site along with Tyre, Anjar, the Cedars of God, Qadisha Valley, and Byblos.

Baalbeck is going to be an extraordinarily rich cultural and historical trip. Check the Baalbek Roman Ruins which are great ancient temples built by the Phoenicians, the Romans, and other civilizations that have conquered the region. Make sure to check the Temple of Bacchus which is one of the largest Roman temple ruins in the world. 

The Temple of Bacchus is dedicated to Bacchus, the god of wine, grape harvest, fertility, and theater. The temple is very well preserved to the extent that the carvings of bulls, lions, and eagles are still visible.

It is believed that the temple was constructed between 150 A.D. and 250 A.D. Also, check the temple of Jupiter and the temple of Venus.

After this cultural trip, have lunch in one of Bekaa’s delicious authentic Lebanese restaurants. Then, head to Anjar and check the Ummayad Citadel which is one of Anjar’s most celebrated sites.

You can also check the neighboring village of Riyak, where you will find a family-run winery called “Chateau Rayak”. The owners will gladly give you a tour around their vineyards and let you taste their wine and arak. 

Related read: 10-Day Israel Road Trip Itinerary

Day 7: Marjaayoun / Saida / Tyre

On your way to Saida, pass through the lovely Marjaayoun. Take a stroll through the cobblestone market squares, which have served as the town center since Ottoman times. While in Marjaayoun, visit the Beaufort or Belfort Castle, known locally as Qal’at al-Shaqif or Shaqif Arnun, which is a Crusader fortress in Nabatieh Governorate, 1.30 hours’ drive from Beirut.

Later, head to Tyre, which is among the world’s 20 oldest cities. It is a Phoenician city that dates to 2,750 B.C. One of its main sites that you must visit is a Roman hippodrome which is on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. This Roman hippodrome stands as the best-preserved in the world and is even larger than the Circus Maximus in Rome herself.

Also, make sure to check the Triumphal Arch of Tyre nearby. This arch is one of the city’s most remarkable archaeological relics.

After this historical and cultural trip, head to the clean beaches of Tyre and enjoy a swim and some seafood! You can also visit the Tyre Coast Nature Reserve which is 380 hectares (940 acres) and is divided into three zones: the tourism zone (public beaches, the old city, and Souks, the ancient port), the agricultural and archaeological zone, and the Conservation zone that includes the Phoenician springs of Ras El Ain.

The last stop would be Saida (Sidon) and then you are back in Beirut. Once in Saida, go to the gorgeous Sidon Sea Castle (Crusader Castle). From the castle, you can see the “Ziri Island” which is a tiny rocky island with a lighthouse, located 1.5 Kilometers off the coastline of Sidon. You can actually go to the island by several ferry boats from Sidon’s port.

Also, check the beautiful Debbane Palace and the museum of Sidon. The palace was ruined by the war and was eventually restored in 2000 and visitors were welcomed in 2001. Later, head to a pastry shop and get the delicious Kanafeh and walk along the Corniche. Kanafeh is a traditional Middle Eastern dessert made with shredded filo pastry, soaked in sweet, sugar-based syrup, and typically layered with cheese.

It will surely guarantee that you stay full for at least 3 hours!

Then, head back to Beirut on a full stomach.

Related read: 4 Arabian Countries of the Gulf You Should Visit Next

Lebanon is a beautiful little country and must be on your bucket list for your next destination. Despite its current turmoil economic crisis, this country will not fail to give you a great authentic middle eastern experience.

Filled with great food, desserts, friendly people, rich history, art, culture, gorgeous beaches, and scenery that will make one hell of a trip; don’t hesitate to give Lebanon a shot. You will thank me later!

About Katy Terroz – Travel Writer & Blogger

Katy is a travel blogger and writer from Lebanon/Ukraine. She completed her undergraduate studies in Beirut (Lebanon) while playing on the university rugby team. Katy enjoyed traveling around the Middle East, camping all over Lebanon, and volunteering with FoodBlessed, a local hunger-relief initiative.

After graduating, Katy moved to Italy to follow her dream of studying abroad. While pursuing her master’s degree in Food Security, Katy took every opportunity she had to travel all over Europe and fell in love with it.

Living in Rome gave Katy the chance to deeply explore Italy and its wonders. She loves experiencing the local life and tries to make every travel experience genuine and authentic. Katy is passionate about exploring new places and different cuisines while making sure to snap beautiful pictures and write down her experiences. She also enjoys getting lost in beachy areas, small medieval towns, and the beautiful quaint cities of the world. 

You can follow her travels on her Instagram .

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Wild Junket

One Week in Lebanon: My Itinerary

Last Updated on April 17, 2020

For those who are going to travel the Pearl of the Middle East, I’m sharing my one-week Lebanon itinerary to help you plan your own journey.

Lebanon: a name that many still associate with war and the Hezbollah even after 20 years the civil war has ended.

Lebanon used to be a tormented land – and in some parts it still is – but it is relatively safe to visit these days. Those adventurous enough to travel Lebanon will be rewarded with food for thought and a feast for the senses and the stomach.

The country is truly blessed with magnificent mountain vistas, impressive ancient ruins and authentic, hospitable people. The warm and welcoming Lebanese people are always willing to chat with you about their country’s culture and politics. Despite the war that tormented this country, t he Lebanese will not let political problems overshadow their pursuit of happiness.

My One -Week Lebanon Itinerary

Table of Contents

Is It Safe to Travel Lebanon?

Explore downtown beirut, learn about the war at beit beirut, stroll along the corniche, stay at: le gray beirut, go on an alternative beirut walking tour, wander around hamra, visit the caves of jeita grotto, take a cable car to mount harissa, stay at: 35 rooms, take another day trip to baalbek, stay at: palmyra hotel, stop over at byblos, wander the old town of tripoli, stay at: via mina hotel, soak up coastal vibes at al mina , go for a hike in qadisha valley, stay at: riviera hotel beirut, get lost in the souks of sidon , enjoy seafood in tyre, stay at: al qualaa boutique hotel.

First, let’s discuss if it’s safe to travel Lebanon. I traveled Lebanon with another female friend in October 2017 and we didn’t feel any danger at all during our entire trip. While we did see quite a lot of military presence in Tripoli and Beirut and also plenty of bullet-marked buildings everywhere, there weren’t any other signs of instability or potential danger at the time of our travel.

Most parts of Lebanon are safe to visit these days. But some parts of Lebanon should be avoided, including the eastern parts close to the Syrian border and the southern areas on the Palestinian border due to the spillover from the war with Syria and the conflict with Israel.

Despite a few incidents, Beirut and nearby areas as well as many other parts of the country are still reasonably safe and the chances to be caught up in anything are very remote. South Beirut, Baalbek, Sidon, Beqaa valley have also suffered sporadic clashes and/or security incidents but these are occasional events that don’t happen often.

A Detailed Lebanon Itinerary

Lebanon is one of the smallest countries in the Middle East , so you can easily see a lot of it in just one week. Before the trip, I was worried if we would be able to see the country in just one week, but needless to say, I had nothing to worry about. If you want to see things at a more leisurely pace, I would recommend 10 days. I hope that sharing my one-week itinerary in Lebanon will help you figure out your own.

Note that many cities in Lebanon have Westernised names which are significantly different from their Arabic names; the Arabic names are given in parentheses below. Be sure to use the Arabic names when talking to taxi drivers and other locals.

DAY 1: INTRODUCTION TO BEIRUT

Our journey started in the capital Beirut. As Lebanon is so small and distances short, we chose to base ourselves in Beirut for our trip (except for a night’s stay in Tripoli) and took day trips from Beirut. Beirut is famous for its nightlife and great restaurants, so my best friend Melinda and I wanted to spend our evenings hanging out and enjoying the atmosphere.

Once known as the Paris of the Middle East , Lebanon’s capital city of Beirut is the most liberal city in the region. The vibrant city is home to great restaurants, hotels and nightlife. Even though the impact of the devastating war can still be felt today, there’s a sense of joie de vivre in this city.

We began our exploration in Downtown Beirut, the historical and geographical core. This was also the frontline of the Lebanese Civil War and suffered the most devastation of all of Beirut. It underwent a thorough reconstruction plan in 1994 and a Lebanese company, Solidere, transformed it into a modern hub filled with high-end boutiques and restaurants. This project was hugely controversial as original inhabitants were forcefully removed from homes and the restoration work was criticised as inauthentic and artificial.

National Museum of Beirut

Then we headed to the National Museum of Beirut , located on the former Green Line. Its impressive, magnificently displayed collection of archaeological artefacts offers a great overview of Lebanon’s history and the civilisations that impacted this cultural crossroads. On the way there, we stumbled upon an impressive art exhibition housed in one of Beirut’s most iconic war-torn buildings, Beit Beirut. The crumbling, bullet-marked Beit Beirut building is a somber reminder of what happened here, and Healing Lebanon aims to promote peace through art work.

Beit Beirut building

In the evening, we went on a long sunset walk along the Corniche , the seafront promenade that fringes the entire northwestern part of Beirut. The 4.8km promenade is a great place for people watching as families, joggers and bikers often convene here in the evenings. There are also lots of beach bars here that overlook the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. We found a cute little grocery shop with high stools that offered the same view as pricey and touristy Bay Rock Cafe.

View of the Pigeon Rocks from the Corniche

For our first two nights, we stayed at Le Gray Beirut , one of the best hotels in Beirut. The five-star hotel has a spectacular rooftop pool that overlooks Downtown Beirut as well as parts of the Mediterranean Sea. We loved our spacious Executive Suite, that had a comfortable sitting area for lounging, and a small balcony that opened up to stunning views of the Mohammed Al-Amir Mosque. Breakfast is served on the rooftop Indigo on the Roof restaurant, which also offers a great dinner menu at night with views of the city before you (Don’t miss the signature beef wellington!).

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DAY 2: GETTING TO KNOW DIFFERENT BEIRUT DISTRICTS

The next day, we signed up for a walking tour with Alternative Beirut to explore other parts of the city with a local. Beyond Downtown Beirut, there are plenty of lively, vibrant neighbourhoods in Beirut that   are worth a visit.

We started in Gemmayzeh , a neighbourhood in East Beirut that’s popular with the younger crowd.  Centered around Gouraud Street, Gemmayzeh is an enchanting area to enjoy a coffee or lunch or to stroll around along its authentic, traditional houses with mediterranean facades. At night, the many bars and restaurants – ranging from trendy and expensive to laid-back and affordable – are swamped with locals.

Then our guide led us through Achrafieh , a district that shows a different history of Beirut. It used to be farmland owned by several powerful Beirut families. The street is home to the Sursock House, a museum that holds regular modern art shows, and Sassine Square, one of oldest in the city. New buildings have sprung up in the area, despite the efforts of groups trying to preserve its history.

Antique street in Gemmayzeh

Lastly, we found ourselves in Hamra , known as the Champs Elysees of Beirut. Because of all the historical cafes and theaters, Hamra was once the intellectual center of Beirut. While that has lessened, the district still has a cosmopolitan vibe, and is definitely the place to hang out for people interested in culture. The atmosphere is a liberal haven in the middle of a country torn by political difference. Today, it is full of pubs and coffee shops that welcome people of all sorts, and still stands as a testament to Beirut’s rich cultural history.

One of the many crumbling buildings in Beirut

Day 3: day trips from beirut.

At just 18km from Beirut, Jeita Grotto and Mount Harissa make for an excellent day trip from the ctiy. We booked a car from our hotel (for around US$60) that brought us to both of the destinations and back. You can actually take public transport to Jeita Grotto but you’ll have to walk quite a distance and there isn’t any connecting transport to Harissa.

Jeita Grotto is a surprisingly impressive network of interconnected karst limestone caves spanning an overall length of nearly 9 kilometres (5.6 mi). It’s named one of top 14 finalists in the New 7 Wonders of Nature competition. Though inhabited in prehistoric times, the lower cave was not rediscovered until 1836 by Reverend William Thomson.

It can only be visited by boat since it channels an underground river that provides fresh drinking water to more than a million Lebanese. The upper galleries house the world’s largest known stalactite. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside the caves.

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From Jeita Grotto, it’s just a short ride to Mount Harissa , an important Lebanese pilgrimage site, Our Lady of Lebanon. It’s one of the most important shrines in the world honoring the Virgin Mary and the shrine is highlighted by a huge, 15-ton bronze statue of the Immaculate Conception. The view from the top of the statue is impressive and definitely worth the visit. You can get there from the coastal city of Jounieh either by road or by a nine-minute journey by a gondola lift, known as the Téléphérique .

The view from Harissa

For the next two nights, we stayed in the Hamra district of Beirut as there was plenty to do after our day trips. 35 Rooms is affordable and well-located, just a block away from the main Hamra Street that’s flanked with shops, restaurants and bars. We could easily walk to the bars and flag down taxis right from our door step. Their service was really good; and they booked us affordable airport transfers as well as transport for the day. Check for the latest rates here.

If you prefer to stay outside of Beirut to experience other parts of Lebanon, I recommend staying in Jounieh, the closest city to Mount Harissa. Jounieh is said to have an even better nightlife than Beirut. Veer Boutique Hotel & Resort is a modern five-star hotel right on the sea, with a private beach and a massive swimming pool as well as spacious and stylish suites overlooking the sea.

Book Your Hotel here!

DAY 4: VISIT THE BAALBEK RUINS

Next on our Lebanon itinerary is Baalbek, the most spectacular archaeological site in Lebanon . To get there, we took an Uber to the cola intersection and hopped onto a mini-van towards Baalbek. Mini-vans or buses are the best way to get around Lebanon; you’ll need to wait for the mini-van to fill up before you can leave but it usually doesn’t take too long. The journey from Beirut to Baalbek takes two hours each way and costs around LL6,000 ($4) per person.

Baalbek Roman Ruins is a site of great ancient temples built by the Phoenicians, the Romans, and other civilisations that have conquered the region. With its colossal structures, Baalbek is one of the finest examples of Imperial Roman architecture that I’ve seen, almost rivalling those in Rome and Athens. Some of the most impressive temples here are the ones of Bacchus, the Greek god of wine, and Jupiter, the Roman god of light, of the sky and weather.

The historical site is located just 75km from Damascus, Syria, and is considered a stronghold of the Hezbollah movement so some books might warn you against visiting. I found the site very peaceful and quiet and didn’t feel any danger at all during my visit. As always, it’s best to keep yourself updated of the latest happenings.

There are very few hotels in Baalbek, but if you do want to stay here, then definitely make it Palmyra Hotel. It’s an institution with remarkable history — the iconic hotel almost makes it worthwhile to stay overnight at Baalbek. The heritage hotel gives you a glimpse of the grandeur of Lebanon back in the day and you’ll feel like you’re being transported back in time.

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Lebanon’s best archaeological site, Baalbek

Day 5: head to tripoli.

Next up on this Lebanon itinerary is the second biggest city in Lebanon, Tripoli. As the fishing town of Byblos was along the way, we decided to stop for a few hours to take a look around. Again we took a mini-van from the Cola intersection (LL1500), and we were dropped off on the highway, which was a 15-minute walk into town.

Byblos (Arabic name: Jbail) is a charming historical coastal city, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Believed to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Byblos is built upon multiple layers of ruins, dating back to as early as the Stone Age and extending to the more recent Ottoman days. Besides the layers of history behind it, it’s also a picturesque Mediterranean seaside town with beautiful cobblestone alleys and seafood restaurants that make for a relaxing visit.

Byblos has a charming old town

Not to be confused with the other ‘Tripoli’ in Libya, Lebanon’s Tripoli (Arabic name: Trablous) is the second-largest city in the country and is famous for its Crusader- and Ottoman-era architecture. Located in northern Lebanon close to the Syrian border, Tripoli has a far more Middle Eastern feel to it, with its labyrinth-like souks, teahouses, sweet shops and mosques. In comparison to Beirut, this city gives a more authentic Lebanese experience than Beirut does.

Tal is the old center of Tripoli, where most cosmopolitan activities happened in the 20th century. It is home to the city’s famous clock tower and old hotels. Walk through this busy street and marvel at all the hustle and bustle that takes place in the area.  The most interesting site in old Tripoli is the Citadel, a Crusader fortress originally built atop the town during the period from 1103 to 1104. It’s partly used as a barracks, so don’t be surprised to find soldiers and tanks around it.

Tripoli’s souks are massive

Strangely there isn’t any affordable and pleasant hotel in Tripoli itself, so I recommend staying in El Mina, close to Tripoli (a taxi costs just US$3-5 each way) and next to the sea. It’s a pleasant area to stay in, with lots of seafood restaurants and kebab shops lined along the Corniche. Via Mina Hotel is the best hotel in the area, with comfortable and stylish rooms housed within a beautiful Mediterranean-style house. There’s even a swimming pool and a lush garden.

DAY 6: CONTINUE TO QADISHA VALLEY

We spent the morning exploring Al Mina — although it’s an independent coastal city, it feels more like a neighbourhood in Tripoli. Al Mina is actually a port city with a rich history and a municipality that dates back to the 19th century. The Greeks first inhabited the city, then the Turkish came, followed by the Syrians. The people of Mina (Minawiyeh) have their own accent which is totally different as other accents in Lebanon.

Al Mina is known for its historic hotels and homes, but you’ll need to get lost within its narrow alleyways to find them. The beach is really nothing to rave about, with heaps of rubbish strewn all over the sea front. I found the Corniche in Al Mina to be far more interesting: lots of locals hang out all the seafront promenade to enjoy sunset, have drinks and snacks at the kiosks that litter the sidewalk. It’s definitely a good place to people-watch and to get a sense of the local environment.

From Al Mina, we headed to Tripoli to catch a shared taxi to the Qadisha Valley , home to the legendary Cedars of God, the most highly prized building materials of the ancient world. This valley was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its importance as the site of some of the earliest Christian monastic settlements in the world, and its continued example of early Christian faith.

The drive there was really scenic and we wished we had a car to drive and hike all over the valley. Instead, we only managed to visit Bsharri, the biggest town in Qadisha, and just took a short walk around the area. 

The UNESCO site of Qadisha Valley

For our last two days in Beirut, we stayed in Hamra once again, but we really should have booked a hotel near the Corniche instead. The seafront is lined with nice hotels and it would have been nice to splurge on a luxury hotel after a busy trip like that. We walked past the pool and bar of Riviera Hotel Beirut and wish we’d stayed there for our last night. The pool area is right next to the sea, and lined with beautiful daybeds and lounge chairs. It’s also surprisingly affordable considering it’s a 5-star hotel overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and rooms are ultra luxurious.

DAY 7: EXPLORE SOUTHERN LEBANON

On our last day of our Lebanon itinerary, we headed south for the first time (the previous day trips were all in the north or east of Beirut) along the coast to two historical cities. Again, buses depart from the Cola intersection and cost around LL 4000 for the one-hour journey to Sidon.

Sidon (Arabic name: Saida) is Lebanon’s third largest city and is most famous for its sea castle. It turned out to be a pleasant surprise and I really wished we had spent the day here rather than going further down to Tyre. In July 2013, Sidon was the scene of a two-day battle between Sunni militants and the Lebanese Army which left over 50 people dead. Although Sidon is for now calm and safe to visit, be sure to keep up with the news if you decide to visit.

This coastal town was once a rich and flourishing Phoenician city, with tight trade links to ancient Egypt. Today it’s best known for its fresh fruit, pastries and sweets, which can be sampled at their awesome souk. Just across the road from the souk is the Sidon Sea Castle, which was built by the crusaders in the thirteenth century as a fortress of the holy land — another must-see when in Lebanon.

Views from the top of the Sidon Sea Castle

Further south, just 26km (16 miles) from the closed Palestinian border is Tyre (Arabic name: Sur), another ancient Phoenician city and home to one of the nation’s major ports. We had a nice stroll on the seafront and meandered our way through the colourful residential area before finding ourselves at a historical site.

The city has a number of ancient sites, including its Roman Hippodrome which was added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1979. Its beaches are also some of the most popular places to go for both tourists and locals alike in summer.

The lazy fishing town of Tyre (Sur)

Roman ruins in tyre.

We had to head back to Beirut for our flight that evening, but I would recommend staying in Sidon if you have the chance. It’s an interesting city with lots to explore and discover, so an overnight stay would do more justice. Al Qualaa Boutique Hotel is a charming heritage hotel perched above the souk and overlooks the beautiful Sidon Sea Castle. You’ll find restaurants right at your doorstep and lots of spice shops and pastry shops just steps away. I particularly love the old stone walls and Ottoman decor and furnishing.

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Are you planning a trip to Lebanon? Leave a comment below if you have any questions!

Nellie Huang

Nellie Huang is the founder of WildJunket. Originally from Singapore, Nellie has traveled to over 150 countries across 7 continents. She is a book author and Lonely Planet guidebook writer. As an adventure travel blogger, she has a special interest in unusual destinations and deep experiences. Follow her travels on her Facebook and Instagram .

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The Comments

Lovely read. Beautifully narrated. Thanks for sharing mate.

Wow! seems like an amazing week. Loved it.

Helped me jot down my list of places to see in Lebanon. Thank you :)

Hi,This has been really helpful. Just wondering if you tell me what a rough budget for this trip would be?

Here’s a rough breakdown:

– $30-40 per night on accommodation (considering I shared accommodation with my friend) – $20-30 per day on food (considering we ate really well and sought out the best restaurants) – $2-3 per day on transport (public transport was really cheap)

In total, I estimate it to be around $500 not including the flights. My flight from Europe was quite cheap as well on Pegasus Air (it was around $300+). Lebanon is not an expensive destination and it’s even cheaper if you stick to public transport. Hope this helps!

Heidi Sequenz

Thanks a lot I am going there end of October? What time of the year did you travel?

I went in October too! It was warm and pleasant. :)

Hi there, Did you book any tours or did you just catch a taxi to the places you mentioned and wondered around yourself? I am heading to Lebanon in December and can spend 8-10 days there. Very keen to follow what you did and also do the hike to the tallest peak.

hi Sarah! I just took public buses/minivans. Most of them leave from the ‘cola intersection’ and drivers will be shouting out the names of the place they’re going to. They’re cheap and leave whenever they’re full. We didn’t book any tours at all. We did hire a private taxi to get to Harissa and Jeita Grotto as it was too late to go catch a bus and we would have to hike between the two spots. The taxi wasn’t cheap – I think we paid around US$50 for the full-day hire. Within Beirut, we would just take Uber everywhere since they’re cheap.

Hi Nellie! Thanks for all the information about Lebanon. I am going in December and your blog has been a nice surprise ! Very helpful with transport. Looking forward to know this fantastic country!

Thanks. This really help. I really want to see this country. I’m from Nigeria and I plan on visiting real soon.

Thanks for info. We only have a week, but I do have people to show us around as I was born there. I’m so excited. Leaving March 22nd. You have helped me with my plans. We are staying at the Vendone in Beirut

great post, thank you! on the minibus travel, I would have a question though. I understand that most leave from the Cola intersection, but was wondering if it is as clear on the return from the different destinations, or if there is something in particular you’d need to be aware of?

hey Georgia thanks for the comment! Yes it is pretty clear for the return journey. You pick up the minibus from where you were dropped. The minibuses are usually shouting off the destination they’re going, so it’ll be easy.

Carol Herbert

So enjoyed reading about your trip, informative and exciting, will definitely travel. Thankyou

I a mi amazed to read this blog. I want to travel with two other females in February but feel quite ambivalent regarding safety concerns. We are Canadians and the travel advisory posted for Lebanon is not good. I was thinking of perhaps lodging at one of the big hotels and organize day trips through them. Very costly though. Is it possible to be based in Beirut an de take the sides ame trips you went on?

hey Angie, thanks for writing! I traveled with a female friend all over Lebanon and we honestly didn’t feel unsafe (except at one point when we spotted a young boy masturbating in a cemetery). But yes, it IS possible to base yourselves in Beirut and take day trips. Lebanon is a relatively small country, so you can easily see quite a lot doing that. I highly recommend going to Balbeek, an ancient ruins site that’s really impressive. Also Byblos was also really lovely, with lots of nice restaurants.

I’m visiting end of June and can’t wait to explore the places you shared. Absolutely stunning

Great to hear, hope you enjoy Lebanon!

Ultimate Lebanon Travel Guide

The ultimate travel guide to lebanon.

Last Updated: 22 Feb 2023.

This guide will tell you everything you need to know for visiting Lebanon during the current crisis, updated regularly with the latest pandemic travel restrictions and for changes caused by Lebanon’s current crises.  I have lived in Lebanon for the past three years ( narrowly surviving the 2020 port explosion ) and have visited almost every inch of this beautiful and crazy country.

Lebanon was a beautiful country with vibrant cities and beautiful ancient historic sites before the multiple crises that began in 2019.  And actually, it still is.  With a bit of planning, it’s still possible to have an amazing trip here, despite the political crisis, economic crisis, electricity shortages, frequent protests and the after effects of the port explosion.

The 2,200 year old Roman temple of Bacchus, the wine god, in Baalbek.

Places to Visit

One of the best things about Lebanon is that almost any area can be visited as a day trip from Beirut.  You can choose to do the below as a series of day trips or stay overnight in different cities as you travel.  Staying overnight reduces the time spent travelling, but also means you have to take everything with you as you travel.

In my opinion, the real must see place in Beirut are the Raouche (Pigeon) rocks, which are a beautiful place to watch the sunset.  If you’re feeling adventurous, take the path down the cliff from the viewing point next to the Bay Rock Cafe (opposite Starbucks) and sit on the rocks opposite Raouche.  From there, not only do you get a beautiful view of the rocks themselves, but also of the sun setting over the Mediterranean Sea.  It’s a great place to enjoy a couple of beers or a bottle of wine.  

The best place to view Pigeon Rocks (left, with people gathered). Also a great location to take a bottle of wine for a romantic sunset date.

One of the joys of Beirut is just strolling through its vibrant neighbourhoods.  I particularly recommend Hamra, which is an interesting mix of old and new, with boutique shops, bars and restaurants.  Gemayze and Mar Mikhael, the main bar district, are also gradually coming back to life after the port explosion destroyed them in 2020.  Zaytuna Bay is a chance to see the more upmarket side of Beirut.

The centre of the Beirut Souks area, including the iconic clock tower in Place de L’Etoile and the Roman baths, has reopened after being cordoned off by the military due to protests for the past two and a half years.  Until recently, it was still possible to enter the ‘egg,’ an abandoned cinema building purportedly left to remind people of the atrocities of the civil war (it’s full of bullet holes), but unfortunately the authorities have now built a fence around it to keep people out.  

The National Museum of Beirut reopened to tourists in summer 2021 and is currently open daily.  Be sure not to miss the ‘mummy room’ on the basement level, which houses three mummies from the Qadisha Valley.  It’s a little temperature-controlled room in a corner and easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there.

The Beirut ‘egg’ (abandoned cinema) and the main mosque.

The Jeita Grottoes & Byblos

The Jeita Grottoes, located slightly to the north of Beirut, are spectacular and conveniently located not far from the coastal highway up to Byblos, making the two a convenient day trip.  You can also choose to stay overnight in Byblos before heading further up north.

At the Jeita Grottoes, you have to leave your phone in a little locker near the entrance, as they don’t allow photographs.  It doesn’t look very secure, but I’ve never heard of anyone having problems.  

The main attraction of Byblos is wandering the beautiful historic centre, with its ancient Mediterranean architecture, beautiful flowers growing up the walls and in some cases across nets over the streets and cute boutiques, bars and restaurants.  There’s also an ancient citadel that’s worth checking out and the picturesque little harbour.  

If you’re looking for something a little adventurous, walk along the right hand wall of the harbour (as you’re facing out to sea) until you reach the ancient tower at the harbour entrance.  From here, with a bit of care, you can climb up to the top of the tower for amazing sunset views, often without any other people.  

If the beach is more your thing, slightly north of the harbour you’ll find a pebble beach that’s great for swimming in the summer (approximately May to October).  Finally, Byblos is home to Fenicia restaurant, in my opinion one of the best restaurants in the whole of Lebanon.  

Byblos harbour is beautiful day and night.

A pretty seaside town in the north of Lebanon, Batroun is nice for an afternoon to wander it’s old town, which is basically a less touristy version of Byblos.  In the Batroun area there are several off-the-beaten-track places that are worth checking out if you have time:

• The Msailha fort, just up the main highway from the city, is small but impressive, standing alone on a huge rock (it’s also free to enter).  The location is here on Google Maps .
• The Rock of Hamat, a giant rock painted in the colours of the Lebanese flag, on the edge of the old cliffside road from Batroun to Chekka.  The location is here on Google Maps .
• The cliffside walk though the old road tunnel to the north of the cliffside road from Batroun to Chekka.  Go to coordinates 34.311459, 35.681865 ( here on Google Maps ) and then take the footpath on the left hand side of the road before the current tunnel entrance.
• For the more adventurous travellers, the disused railway tunnel.  To reach the entrance, after the current road tunnel walk about 100m then go down the footpath on the left hand side of the road.  Two thirds of the way down, there’s a little bank on the left that you can scramble up (about 2-3m).  The entrance to the tunnel is at the top of this bank.

The spectacular Mseilha Fort, just outside of Batroun.

Much of the time, Lebanon doesn’t feel like the Middle East.  There are no deserts, no camels (apart from a couple in Chouf that were imported from Saudi just to entertain tourists) and many of the main cities, including Beirut, Byblos and Batroun, have more of a Mediterranean feel than a Middle Eastern feel.  And then you reach Tripoli.  Check out the old souk (market) and the citadel.  The souk seems to close around sunset at the moment, possibly due to a lack of power after dark.  

Tripoli’s Corniche is, in my opinion, not as nice as Beirut’s, but Al Mina, the old town, is quaint and has several nice restaurants, including The Sailor Woman, my favourite seafood restaurant in Lebanon.  If you have plenty of time, you can also catch a boat from the Corniche to Palm Island, which has the biggest sandy beach in the north of Lebanon.  It’s a nice place to chill out and swim in the sea.  

Beach Day on Rabbit Island with a group of crazy Couchsurfers.

Anjar & Baalbek

The Roman ruins at Baalbek are some of the most spectacular in the world, especially the enormous temple of Bacchus, the wine God (gotta love Roman priorities).  That’s why you should visit Anjar first!  Anjar is beautiful and spectacular, but after Baalbek, it will seem small and insignificant in comparison.  Don’t forget to try sfeeha, the local delicacy, while you’re in Baalbek.  Baalbek is also home to the Sayyida Khawla shrine, one of the most beautiful and historic Shia shrines in Lebanon.

Local believe that Khawla, daughter of Imam al-Husayn, is buried in this tomb, although historians aren’t sure that Imam al-Husayn even had a daughter.

Baalbek has a bad reputation for safety, but this generally refers to other parts of Baalbek governorate, not Baalbek city.  If you’re concerned about safety, just don’t go north of the city (and definitely keep away from Arsel, which has a justifiably rough reputation).

Saida & Mleeta

Saida has probably the most beautiful souk (market) in the whole of Lebanon, full of ancient stone archways and local people hawking traditional wares (and delicious Arab sweets).  There’s also the small but worth-a-visit Dabane Palace Museum, a soap museum and the Hammam el-Sheikh traditional bathhouse.  The seafort on the waterfront is also worth a visit (although more spectacular from the outside than inside).  If you want a beer, go to Resthouse, a restaurant next to the seafort that is the only place in Saida allowed to sell alcohol.  Its garden is also a great place to take photos of the seafort.

Mleeta is a tiny village in the mountains that is home to probably the most well-maintained museum in Lebanon – The Hezbollah Museum.  Here, a free English-speaking guide will take you around and tell you about the various wars against Israel and Hezbollah’s role in protecting and driving out the enemy.  Whatever your political views, the museum is very well done and worth a visit.  It’s located about a 40-minute drive up into the mountains above Saida.

The Saida seafort – a castle in the sea.

One of the oldest cities in the world, Tyre is home to an ancient Roman Hippodrome.  The site itself is a bit rundown now, but the ruins are still impressive.  There’s also a pretty little old town with less tourists than other cities in Lebanon and a colourful harbour full of fishing boats.  The restaurants next to it are worth checking out for some fresh seafood too.  To the south of the city is Lebanon’s longest sandy beach.  This was affected by the oil spill off Israel in 2021, but is now clean again and safe for swimming.  

Tyre’s colourful harbour – a great place to eat fresh seafood.

The Northern Mountains

There are many beautiful places to visit in the northern mountains of Lebanon, aside from just the pleasure of driving through the local villages and the often breathtaking scenery.  The three I would recommend for visitors are:

• The 2,000 year old olive trees in Bchaleeh, which are supposedly the oldest in the world.  Local legends say that the olive branch from the story of Noah’s Ark came from one of these trees, but you can make up your own mind.   The location is clearly marked on Google Maps .
• The viewpoint at Aqoura.  Climb the rocky hill opposite the church for spectacular 360 degree views).   The start point is at Saydat Al Qarn church ( here on Google Maps ).
• The Batarra Waterfall.  This 255m (837 ft) waterfall, which passes through several layers of Jurassic limestone rock, is definitely the most beautiful in Lebanon.  It’s best visited in the spring when there is plenty of meltwater.  I went in early August once and there was no water at all.
• The Cedars of God.  At possibly 2,500 years old, the Cedars of God are some of the oldest cedar trees in the world and a UNESCO world heritage site to boot.

You will need a car to reach these locations, or you could try hitchhiking.  

The 255m Batarra waterfall. Try throwing a stone down into the chasm below and see how long it takes before you near it hit the bottom.

The Chouf Region

Home to the majority of the Druze population of Lebanon, the Chouf region also contains the country’s largest remaining cedar forests at the Chouf Biosphere Reserve.  This is a great place to do some hiking with trails from 5 minutes to a full day.  

The region also contains the Bettadine palace, which was built by the Ottomans, and the Moussa Palace, which was built over several decades by a crazy Lebanese man who wanted his own palace.  The latter contains a vast collection of ancient weapons and some very well done scenes from traditional Lebanese life, created with models animated in various ways.  I love the concept that the guy just suddenly decided to build himself a palace!

A traditional Lebanese scene in the Moussa Palace museum.

The Christian city of Jounieh used to be where Arabs from stricter countries in the Middle East went to party and unwind, as evidenced by the strip of hotels on the coast that look like they’ve seen better days.  Even now, the city is still home to Lebanon’s only casino, Casino du Liban, and a bunch of ‘super night clubs’ – basically stripclubs.

For tourists not looking for such things, the main attraction is Harissa, the hill behind the city with a statue of Our Lady of Lebanon on the top.  There is also a very nice (but steep) hike up from the city below through the dense forest with occasional views across the bay.  The start of the path is at coordinates 33.997710, 35.650976 ( here on Google Maps ).  Recommended for sunset.  

Hermel and Akkar

The far north of Lebanon is known as one of its most dangerous areas, but most reports are highly exaggerated.  The main attraction here is the 2,500 year-old Pyramid of Hermel, which I visited in 2021 .  Even now, no one’s quite sure who built it!  Worth a visit if you have the time, but its location in one of the most remote parts of the country means that it won’t fit many peoples’ itineraries.  

Nobody is sure why the Pyramid of Hermel was built.

The Far South (UNIFIL-Controlled Area)

The far south of Lebanon is interesting, because you can drive along beside the border wall with Israel, which is covered in security cameras and, in some places, graffiti similar to that seen in the Palestinian territories.  The coast at Naqoura also have the cleanest waters in Lebanon for swimming, thanks to the low population density and proximity to Israel, which has better sewage treatment facilities than Lebanon.  

The downside is that this area is under control of the UN peacekeeping force (UNIFIL) and foreigners need a permit to enter it.  See below the section on Entering the UNIFIL-Controlled Area for details of how to obtain the permit.  

This picturesque little village in the mountains near Saida is often overlooked by travellers, which is a pity, as it boasts one of Lebanon’s most spectacular waterfalls.  For hikers, the village is surrounded by Lebanon’s largest pine forest.  For those who want something darker, there’re also some interesting abandoned buildings leftover from Lebanon’s war of resistance against Israel to explore.  Read more in my dedicated Jezzine guide here.

The sea wall south of Naqoura

Suggested Itineraries

Pick and choose where to visit from the places above.  However, my suggestions are as follows:

Two-day Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos .  This is way too short, but spend one day wandering Beirut, watch the sunset at Raouche in the evening and then head to the Jeita Grottoes and Byblos on day 2.

Four-day Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos – Saida & Mleeta – Anjar & Baalbek.   Best to base yourself in Beirut for this itinerary, which covers the major highlights of the country.  

One-week (7 day) Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos – Tripoli – The Northern Mountains – Saida & Mleeta – The Southern Mountains – Anjar & Baalbek. This itinerary includes most of the highlights of the country with a variety of cities, ancient ruins and nature.

Two-week (14 day) Trip or Longe r : Beirut – Jeita Grottoes – Jounieh – Byblos – Batroun – Tripoli – The Northern Mountains – Anjar & Baalbek – Saida & Mleeta – Jezzine – The Southern Mountains – Tyre .  You could easily spend more than a day in many of the places listed here, making the trip more relaxing and enjoyable.  Alternatively, add in some hiking or visit some random villages in the mountains, many of which are beautiful.  

If you have the time, check out the Rock of Hamat near Batroun for a very Instagrammable pic.

I had no idea until I moved to Lebanon, but the country has some amazing hikes.  My personal favourites are the following:

• Qornet As Sawda (Black Peak) – The highest mountain in not only Lebanon, but the entire Levant region, and 5th highest in the Middle East, at 3,088m.  The landscape is like nothing else in the country, as barren as the moon.  It gets very cold near the top and is covered in snow from around November to May, so it’s best to avoid these times.  The hike starts from the Cedars ski resort near the Cedars of God and the first two hours follow the ski lifts.  The total hiking time is about 8 hours and it’s long, but not difficult.  
• The Chouf Biosphere Reserve – The largest cedar forests in Lebanon make for some beautiful hiking.  The reserve is clearly marked on Google Maps and is suitable for short or long hikes.
• The Qadisha Valley – Possibly the most beautiful place in the whole of Lebanon, a Colombian monk lives in a tiny monastery perched high on a cliff above the valley.  The path to the monastery is narrow with beautiful views and not particularly difficult, although the monk himself has stopped meeting visitors recently, due to the risk of Covid, as he is very old.
• Jabel Moussa Biosphere Reserve – There are many hikes here, from short 3-5km jaunts to 20km marathons and over steep mountain paths.  The highlight is Chouwen lake, which is a beautiful turquoise blue.  It’s also possible to swim in it during the summer.  
• Bkassine Pine Forest – The largest pine forest in Lebanon is riddled with beautiful hiking trails.  Check out my Jezzine guide for details .

The moonscape of Qornet As Sawda is like nothing else in the whole of Lebanon.

A rare near eastern fire salamander, spotted by yours truly while hiking in the Chouf region.

Anyone who thinks the Middle East is only desert and camels has never been to Lebanon – the lush green of the Qadisha Valley is like something out of a Disney film.

Impact of the Crisis – Electricity

Lebanon’s national grid currently only supplies about 1-2 hours of electricity per day to most parts of the country, due to a shortage of fuel, insufficient capacity and various other factors.  This is terrible if you’re local and don’t have a backup power supply.  However, for tourists it’s actually not that big a problem, as major hotels have good generators that provide 24/7 power and most restaurants and other businesses also have generators, if not all the time.

The best advice here is check with your hotel before visiting.  Some generators are not designed to run 24/7 and so buildings can have gaps without power.  My apartment currently has seven hours in 24 with no power, split between the night and morning, when they let the generator ‘rest.’

The electricity crisis has made the roads more dangerous – many street lights and traffic lights are not operating.  If you do drive in Lebanon, when you come to a junction without working traffic lights, just slow down and drive slowly through.  Most Lebanese drivers are very cautious at these junctions, as the economic crisis has made imported car parts astronomically expensive and no one wants to damage their car.  

Protests occasionally turn violent, but luckily protest areas are easily avoided by visitors.

Impact of the Crisis – Hyperinflation

The most important thing to remember is to bring enough cash for the duration of your stay.  The best currency to bring is USD, but other common currencies, such as EUR and GBP, can also be exchanged at black market rates.  Licensed currency exchange shops are now permitted to exchange currency at black market rates, so you no need to be hooked up with a black market dealer.  

Pro tip : before coming to Lebanon, download the Lira Rate or Lira Exchange app for your smartphone.  These apps show the current black market rates and, although the rate on the street is usually slightly lower, give you a good guide as to the approximate rate you should expect when changing money.

If you do run out of money in Lebanon, don’t withdraw money from an ATM if you can possibly avoid it.  ATMs currently operate at the official rate of 15,000 LBP to the USD, so you’re losing most of your money to the banks.  The same applies to paying for things priced in LBP with credit/debit cards.  ATMs no longer offer USD currency withdrawal for foreign bank cards.  The best approach for travellers is to use a currency transfer service like MoneyGram or Western Union, which allow you to transfer in foreign currency and collect it in USD.

One knock on effect of the economic crisis is that Lebanon is now significantly cheaper than it used to be.  Hotels have started charging foreigners in dollars again, but everything else, and especially food, is much cheaper than it was before.  A good Lebanese meal for two in a normal restaurant will usually cost about $15, including drinks.  In a slightly more upmarket restaurant, expect to pay around $30.  

The economic crisis is so bad that Batman had to trade in the Batmobile.

Impact of the Crisis – Safety

Crime rates in Lebanon are very low and, although they have risen recently as people become increasingly desperate, rates of petty theft are still lower than in most of Europe and criminals in general do not specifically target foreigners.  That said, the atmosphere can feel tense and the fortifications erected in some areas (lots of barbed wire, concrete barriers and patrolling soldiers) can give the impression that the safety situation is worse than it is.  

Most violent incidents that have been in the news recently have occurred during protests, often of a political nature.  If you do see the beginnings of a protest, such as groups of people marching together or tyres burning in the road, simply turn around and leave the area.  Protests usually start peacefully, but build to a point where the demonstrations spill over into violence.  Again, protests do not target foreigners, but there is a risk of being caught in the violence if you stick around.

An unfortunate legacy of the Lebanese civil war is that a lot of the populations still own guns.  At a recent protest in Beirut, not only were there shootings with machine guns, but the violence escalated with the use of RPGs.  This is an extreme case.  Again, I stayed away from the area.  

Guns are also often used at funerals or celebrations, where they are shot into the air in waves of celebratory gunfire.  Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, and people are occasionally killed by falling bullets or by bullets entering buildings through windows.  If you do hear shooting while you’re in a building, move to the interior, away from the windows and wait for it to subside.  If you’re outside, leave the area.  Funerals rarely happen in the city centre, which is the most interesting area for foreign travellers, so you probably won’t come across them anyway.  Furn El Chebek, Chiyah, Tariq El Jdideh and Jnah are common areas for funerals.

Lebanon is generally very safe. Even walking through the slummier neighbourhoods of Tripoli, Lebanon’s poorest city, I never felt unsafe.

Certain areas of Beirut experience violence far more than others.  In general, the southern suburbs of Beirurt, south of main road where the National Museum of Beirut is located, are less safe than the city centre.  In particular, Chiyah, Cola and Tayouneh and Tariq El Jdideh have all seen violent protests.  Martyr’s Square and the Beirut souks area also see frequent protests, but these tend to be less violent than those in the south.

As a tourist, the only areas you’re likely to visit to the south are Badaro (an upmarket bar street) and the Cola Intersection, as it’s the main hub for public transport to the south and the Bekaa Valley.  I visit these locations regularly and have never had problems, but keep an eye out just in case.

This may all sound very scary, but actually Lebanon is very safe for tourists.  Even now, by far the most dangerous thing is the roads, where accidents are frequent.  Just use a bit of common sense and you’ll be fine.

Impact of the Crisis – Fuel

One of the best ways to see Lebanon, and especially the more remote parts, is to rent a car and drive yourself.  During the summer of 2021, fuel became extremely difficult to obtain, often requiring queuing for hours (if you can even find a fuel station that’s open).  The only other option was to purchase it on the blackmarket at vastly inflated prices.

The good news is that, since the end of September 2021, fuel has been readily available again.  The government has let the price of fuel rise to close to market value, which has reduced incentives for fuel hoarding and smuggling to Syria.  

Bikers queuing for fuel at the peak of the fuel crisis in 2021

Ethics – Should I Visit Lebanon During the Crisis?

With frequent power cuts and shortages of some products, many people question whether they should visit a country while it’s in crisis, as they feel they may be using limited resources that are needed by the local population.  In the case of Lebanon, the answer is definitely yes, you should visit.  Lebanon produces very little domestically – even 80%+ of food is imported.  Shortages are not caused by a lack of supply on global markets, they’re caused by a lack of financial means to purchase supply (compounded by corruption and a range of other factors).  

By visiting Lebanon, you are bringing much needed foreign currency into the country and, by buying products and services from local businesses, ensuring that it reaches local people who need it.  One of the biggest problems for Lebanese people is that the value of the LBP to the dollar is so low, which makes imports expensive.  Everytime there is a large influx of visitors, for example with the Lebanese diaspora returning home over Christmas, the LBP gains value, helping local people.  This shows the positive effect that an influx of foreign currency has and, as an individual your contribution will be small, but will certainly be positive.  In other words, don’t feel bad about visiting!

Lebanese people are very good at enjoying life, even in the middle of a crisis.

One of the best ways to see Lebanon is to rent a car.  Car rentals are cheap now (about $20/day for a small car, including insurance) and Lebanon is a very car-based society.  A deposit of around $100 is often requested in cash for your first rental.  So far, I’ve not heard of any problems having this refunded.  In theory, an International Driver’s Permit is required, but in reality no one cares, at least not if your local driver’s licence is in English, French or Arabic.

I usually rent from Mike Rent-a-Car, which is a good option if you want to support local businesses.  The price is generally $20-30/day depending on the season for a small car and their Website is at www.mikerentacar.com .  Their office in Beirut is located here .  Alternatively, the big international car rental companies, such as Avis and Europcar , also operate in Lebanon.  They also have the advantage of having a presence at the airport, so you don’t need to bother with other transport to get to your accommodation. 

Cars and Drivers

If you don’t feel confident driving in Lebanon, it is possible to hire a car and driver from a hotel or hostel. This can cost upwards from around $70 a day plus fuel, but hotels may charge significantly more.

Ride Hailing Apps

Uber and Bolt both work well in Beirut.  Bolt is usually slightly cheaper, but Uber cars are generally in better condition and the drivers are more professional.  These apps are also by far the cheapest way to get to or from the airport in Beirut.  Just be sure to change the payment method to cash, as credit cards are billed at the official exchange rate so you’ll end up paying $50 for a 5-minute trip across town.

Public Transport

Lebanon has an informal public transport network made up for service (shared) taxis and minibuses.  These are operated privately with pricing regulated by the government.  There are also public buses from Beirut to Tripoli.  Vehicles licensed for public transport, including taxis, all have red number plates (or red lettering on the number plate).

To catch a service (shared) taxi, stand on the edge of a road (main roads are usually better) and hold out your arm when a taxi comes past (look for the red number plates).  Ask the driver “Service?”  If he agrees, it means the taxi is shared, so you will not be charged for a private journey.  Then tell him your destination.  If he’s going in the right direction and willing to take you there, he’ll agree.  Finally, ask him the price.  Most drivers are very honest, but a few do try to overcharge foreigners.  

Inside Beirut

Service taxis operate throughout Beirut, although explaining the destination can be tricky.  Often, the easiest approach is just to say the name of the area, such as “Hamra,” “Gemayze,” “Daora,” or “Cola.”  Minibuses on set routes also operate, but finding the routes is extremely difficult, so use the same approach as when taking a service and ask the driver whether he goes to your destination.  Prices for service taxis are just over $1 and for minibuses around $0.50.

Northern Lebanon

Shared taxis and minibuses run from the Daora roundabout in Beirut up the coastal highway to Jounieh, Byblos, Batroun and Tripoli.  Prices vary, but are cheap, starting at about $1 to Jounieh.  Just ask the drivers whether they go to the city you want to reach.

For Tripoli, there’s also a bus that runs on an actual schedule from Martyr’s Square in Beirut.  

Their current schedule can be found on their Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/connexion.transportation . 

Southern Lebanon and the Bekaa Valle y

Minibuses run from the Cola Intersection in southern Beirut down the coastal highway to Saida and Tyre, as well as to Baalbek in the Bekaa Valley and to the Chouf region.  To visit the Chouf Biosphere Reserve, catch the bus to Barouk, the name of the nearest village.  From there, you need to walk several kilometres to enter the reserve and there is no public transport.  Hitchhiking could be an option. 

To reach Anjar, take the minibus to Baalbek and get off at Chtoura.  From here, there are other minibuses running to Anjar.  

The Jeita Grottoes

The Jeita Grottoes are located about halfway between Beirut and Byblos, approximately 5km from the highway.  Take public transport from the Daora roundabout and get off at the Ajaltoun exit of the main highway (coordinates 33.960616, 35.604071, here on Google Maps ).  From here you can either walk (5km uphill) or take a taxi.  There are usually several drivers hanging around this area, although prices can be high and will depend on your negotiation skills.  To get back to the highway afterwards, you can usually find a driver in the Jeita Grottoes carpark.  Another good option to reach the Jeita Grottoes is to take an Uber all the way from Beirut.  Uber is cheap in Lebanon, so this works out around the same price.

I’m not aware of any public transport option to reach this area of the country (including Aqoura, the Batara waterfall and the Cedars of God), so your options are really driving or hitchhiking.  

The view from Aqoura – there is still snow on the mountains in early May.  The northern mountains are a pain to get to without a car, but worth the effort.

Transport to and from Beirut Airport

Uber is a cheap and convenient way to get to or from the airport in Beirut.  This should cost around $6.  However, this can be tricky when first arriving, due to needing to obtain Lebanese pounds to pay the driver.  If the exchange counter at the airport is not open or the rate is bad, you can try negotiating with the Uber driver to pay in USD at the black market rate.

There are always plenty of local taxis waiting at the airport to take you to the city centre.  These often try to charge ridiculous rates to foreigners – up to $50 for the 10-15 minute journey.  With a bit of bargaining, you should be able to agree on around $10.

Checkpoints

There are military checkpoints on the roads throughout Lebanon and even within some parts of Beirut.  Generally, they wave foreigners through without saying anything.  If driving yourself, slowdown at the checkpoint, wind down the window and greet the soldier.  Most times, he’ll wave you though before you even come to a stop.  

In my two years here during which I’ve travelled the country extensively, I’ve been asked twice for my nationality and had my passport checked once (so carry it with you, just in case), and that was on the road between Hermel and Qobayat, one of the most remote parts of the country.

Entering the UNIFIL-Controlled Area

The only exception to the above is the checkpoints for entering the UNIFIL-controlled area south of the Litani river near the border with Israel.  Foreigners can only enter with a permit obtained in advance (with the exception of UN employees).  To obtain the permit, visit the police headquarters in Saida with your passport.  The police station is at coordinates 33.550327, 35.381710 ( here on Google Maps ).  You need to bring your passport and colour photocopies of the identity page and your entry stamp to Lebanon (and visa, if you come from a country that needs a visa to enter Lebanon).  It generally takes less than one hour and permits can be issued for entry on the same day.  Permits can be obtained for one or multiple days.

Northern Israel, as viewed over the imposing border wall in south Lebanon.

Recently (as of early 2023), the black market exchange rate has been hovering around the 80,000 LBP to the USD rate, whereas the official rate is 15,000 LBP.  Previously, currency exchange shops were prohibited from giving the black market rate, but the government has relaxed this rule, so any currency exchange shop can exchange money for you.  Just make sure you bring plenty of cash.

Whatever you do, don’t use a foreign bank card in an ATM or to pay in shops.  The banks still apply the official rate, so you’ll be paying several times the real price.  

Pre-crisis, these notes were worth about $66 each. Now they’re worth around $3.

Mobile Phone Service and SIM Cards

Lebanon has good mobile Internet even in most rural areas.  SIM cards are widely available from mobile phone shops.  I use Alpha, which has good 4G coverage across most of the country.  Passports are not required to obtain a SIM.  Prices fluctuate, but a SIM card with 6GB of data valid for one month can be obtained for around $20.  I have been warned to check that the seller gives you the packaging to ensure that it’s not a reused, although I’m not sure what the problem would be with this..  

Restaurants and Coffee Shops

One of the greatest pleasures of visiting Lebanon is the food.  This list is by no means exhaustive, but here are my favourite restaurants.  I happen to like coffee a lot, so I’ve also slung in a few coffee shop recommendations for good measure.

• Resto Ghazar: My favourite Lebanese-Armenian restaurant.  Try the soubeureg (cheese pastries), mouhamara (pomegranate with nuts) and manti.  Although not Armenian, their batata harra (spicy potatoes with coriander) is also out of this world.  Prices are very reasonable, at about $10-15 a person, including drinks.  
• Ohannes Restaurant: Another great Armenian restaurant, with beautiful tiled decor.  The food is also great, especially the Ohannes salad and fried liver.  This place is a bit more upmarket at about $15-25 per person, including drinks.
• T-Marbouta: A variety of great Lebanese food in the heart of Hamra with a nice outdoor seating area.  About $8-15 a person, including drinks.
• Sawani Falfoul: A great place for breakfast in Badaro, an upmarket bar street.  In particular, try the foul (a kind of chickpea soup, pronounced like the word “fool” in English), shakshuka (scrambled egg with tomato) and hummus (the “Malaysian” hummus is particularly good, if not very Lebanese sounding).
• Barbar Restaurant: Basic but tasty Lebanese barbeque restaurant in Hamra.  Not sure of the current price, but cheap!
• Le Chef: A traditional Lebanese restaurant that claims to be the oldest in Lebanon, although my Lebanese friends tell me that this is bullshit.  The place has a lot of character and was saved from bankruptcy by a donation from Russel Crow, who once ate there, after being destroyed in the port explosion in August 2020.
• Notes Speciality Coffee: My local coffee place.  Great brews and the chance to meet me if you’re there in the morning (I often work from there).  

Quail eggs with basterma (seasoned meat) – an Armenian-Lebanese delicacy.

• Fenicia: This restaurant is so good that I have hardly eaten anywhere else in Byblos.  Up there with Resto Ghazar as one of my two favourite restaurants in Lebanon.  The environment is elegant and the food is absolutely out-of-this-world.  The cheese/shrimp rolls and the mixed grill plata are my recommendations.  Prices are about $15-25 per person, including drinks.  The only problem is that they don’t take reservations and getting a seat can be difficult.  

Byblos has many local restaurants, like this Italian one, where you can sit outside and enjoy the old town vibe.

• The Colonel Brewery: Lebanon’s most famous craft beer brewery, the Colonel recently opened a restaurant with a view of the Mediterranean and a great selection of fresh seafood.  Try the delicious raw fish if you’re feeling adventurous.  A meal for two including drinks is around $30.
• Barrio 67: Not Lebanese cuisine, but delicious international food and nice decoration in the heart of the old town.  Prices are about $15-25 per person, including drinks. 
• The Sailor Woman: this cute little restaurant serves only six dishes – fish with tahini, calamari, octopus, french fries, fattouch (traditional Lebanese green salad) and Tabbouleh (traditional Lebanese salad with Parsley).  What makes it so special is that all the cooking is done by a little old lady in her apartment, which is just next to the restaurant.  The fish is also very fresh, as Tripoli is the centre of the Lebanese fishing industry.  
• Newtown Coffee: Great place to take a break from sightseeing and chill.  Nice environment and good coffee.  

My favourite fish in Tahini at The Sailor Woman restaurant.

Be sure to try some Lebanese sweets, which can be found across the country.

• Foul Abou El Ezz: Another breakfast place, simple, very local and delicious.  Try the foul (a kind of chickpea soup, pronounced like the word “fool” in English) and hummus.  
• Green’s Coffee: One of my favourite coffee shops in Lebanon with a great selection of coffees and even a deli counter.  The environment is top-notch with a nice retro feel.  
• Resthouse: Overpriced (although still cheap by international standards), but with a great view of the Seafort and the only place allowed to sell alcohol in Saida.  Perfect for a beer with a view on a hot summer’s day.

A man making local sweets at a little bakery in the winding streets of Saida’s old bazaar.

• Local sfeeha place: On the main street of Baalbek, on the left as you’re walking away from the Roman ruins, you’ll come across what is basically a traditional oven in a room on the edge of the street with a few tables outside (approx. coordinates: 34.005245, 36.208302, here on Google Maps ).   They make one dish – delicious sfeeha, the traditional meat pastry originally from Baalbek – and they make it really well.  It’s a while since I’ve been there, so not sure of the exact price, but twenty sfeeha cost a few dollars.

Local sfiha meat pastries being prepared for the brick oven.

• Fresh seafood: Tyre has a wonderful selection of reasonably-priced fresh seafood restaurants overlooking the harbour.  The location is at 33.274307, 35.194684 ( here on Google Maps ) and there are several small restaurants with harbour views nearby.  Prices start from about $10 a person, including drinks.

Accommodation

Hotels recently switched to charging foreign tourists in USD and so the prices are roughly the same as before the crisis.  You may be able to negotiate a deal with some of the smaller places when you’re here, but that’s tricky to do in advance.  AirBNB can be a very good option and relatively cheap.  With any accommodation, check the hours that they have electricty before booking.

Couchsurfing

Lebanon has an active Couchsurfing community.  Many people here host travellers and there are often events organised.  If you’re looking to meet local people, this is a great way to do it.  

Covid-19, PCR Tests and Entry Requirements

As of 28 September 2022, the Lebanese government cancelled all Covid-related requirements for entering Lebanon.  Once in the country there are also no longer restrictions and masks are not required.  

PCR tests are not required for departure from Beirut airport.  However, if you need one for your next destination, they can be obtained at many hospitals in Lebanon.  I have used Hotel Dieu de France hospital in the past. There’s also a lab that will send someone to your accommodation to do the test for you.  It’s very convenient and the results are available same day, sent via WhatsApp.  They can be contacted on WhatsApp at +961 3 444 925.  Wherever you do the test, it will have a QR code.  Prices vary depending on the exchange rate, but are generally around $10-12.

More about Lebanon

After two years living in Lebanon, I’ve visited almost every inch of the country.  You can read about my adventures here:

Jezzine Travel Guide

Why Visit Jezzine?  The picturesque village of Jezzine is perched high on a cliff top overlooking the incredible Jezzine waterfall - at 90m (295ft), one of the highest waterfalls in Lebanon.  It’s also practically surrounded by Bkassine forest, the largest pine forest...

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon As a Scot, I’m used to living in countries far bigger than my own.  Lebanon is the exception - the entire country is only about 200km long and 80km wide at its widest point.  So how, you might ask, can there be ‘remote...

Looking for even more great ideas?  Here’s another in-depth travel guide to Lebanon by Romana and Jakub at Broken Naviation, including hotel recommendations for all budgets (living here I don’t stay in hotels much).  They have some really beautiful photographs too.  Check it out here:

• How to Travel to Lebanon in 2022 & 11 Days Itinerary

Don’t forget to leave a comment below if you enjoyed the article or have questions!

Beirut is one crazy beautiful city in one crazy beautiful country. I can’t not love it.

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30 Comments

Wow, this is a great post. Thank you so much. We’re travelling to Lebanon for a week in May (9th – 15th) and were a bit unsure of what to see/do because of the crisis. This has helped a lot. I’m coming with a friend. Hit me up if you’d like to hang out.

Hey mate, great to hear the guide was helpful. I’m actually outside the country travelling Sudan at the moment (another amazing place), so won’t be around on those dates. Enjoy Lebanon!

I absolutely love this guide. I am a 50plus woman who travels around the world and I am in Egypt now. I want to go and spend a month there in June/July and would love to contact people who want to meet and Argentina my age or around my age. I am not rich, my country goes through the same struggles than Lebanon with the second highest inflation in the world. I do have a website on the works and I can recommend your site, I believe the only waay we can make a change is to share

Hi Monica, that’s great. I’m sure you’ll enjoy Lebanon a lot. For meeting people, you might want to try Couch Surfing. The community in Lebanon is quite active.

Thank you so much for the useful information. I’m travelling to Lebanon for a week in 30th May – 6th June and was uncertain of what to expect. You information has helped me feel more confident. I’m coming by myself as my partner can’t make it because of work commitments. Feel free to contact me if you’d like have a chat over drinks. PS I’m keen to go to Sudan and see the Pyramids there. Hope you enjoyed it.

Hi Morris. Great to hear that the information was helpful. I would definitely be up for meeting for a drink, as long as I’m in Lebanon at that time. Could you drop me a message on the quitandgotravel Instagram page? I don’t want to put my WhatsApp number on this page as it’ll inevitably get flooded with spam.

Sudan was amazing! Working on a guide for that now, but will take some time.

This is amazing, thank you so much for publishing this! I’ve had a hard time getting a real read on the situation. We are planning a trip in July, probably just Beirut for 4 or 5 days. Do you have any hotel recommendations?

Hi Katie, glad to hear it was useful. July is a great time to visit, the weather will be beautiful. Beirut is a great place to base yourself, but I would suggest to do at least a day trip to Byblos and the Jeita Grottoes. Regarding hotels, as I live here, I don’t stay in them and so don’t have specific recommendations. However, wherever you stay, the main thing to check is whether they have a generator and how many hours of power they have per day. Generally, the higher-end hotels have 24/7 power, whereas the lower-end ones could be just a few hours a day.

Hi Rowan, this was SO helpful, thank you! Hoping to visit May 27-June 4 but was nervous about the US government “level 3” travel advisory. I saw your disclaimer about the elections last week – how is the sentiment now?

Hi Lily, glad this was helpful. The elections have gone relatively peacefully, so hoping things will be back to normal by then. Time will tell, so feel free to reach out to me nearer the time to confirm.

Think your guide is really helpful mate. I’m looking to visit with my girlfriend for at least a week in Oct before flying on to India, but we will not hire a car to keep the costs down, so hopefully we can visit places like Byblos and Kadisha Valley by bus/shared taxi etc as we’d love to do some hiking. Thanks again.

Awesome mate, glad the guide was helpful. Lebanon is very doable with public transport (and maybe a bit of hitchhiking to Kadisha). Enjoy India!

Is the situation pretty unstable atm mate? Been looking at uk gov website and it seems to say avoid all but essential travel to Lebanon. Not going until Oct, so I hope thing may improve then, but would you say wait to see if it calms down a bit before booking flights, or just take the gov advice with a pinch of salt? As your blog seems to indicate its not too bad 🙂 sorry for the bombardment of questions!

Hey mate, already replied to your email, but for anyone else reading, government travel warnings tend to exaggerate. It’s actually very peaceful here at the moment. Lebanese people are very friendly and crime rates are low. In Lebanon, the situation can change quickly, but I wouldn’t let that put you off visiting.

Hi Rowan, thanks for sharing those helpful Informations. Do you know if there is a possibility to get from Bcharré to Baalbek by public transportation in September

Hi Miriam. Glad the blog has been useful. Unfortunately, there is no public transport from Bcharré to Baalbek. By public transport, you’d need to go back to Beirut and then over the main highway to Baalbek, which is a huge detour. However, I’m sure you could hitchhike it without much difficultly. Lebanese people are very friendly and a female friend of mine who was volunteering in Anjar the past few weeks hitchhiked all over the country without problems.

Wowwwww I was just looking around, totally unsure about Lebanon and feeling no way I could Really do it but your post has totally changed my mind.

I hope to meet you for a coffee hello.

~A Solo woman traveller

Ps, Pls let me know your thoughts on overland travel from jordan through syria.

Hey, glad the blog helped inspire you! Overland travel from Jordan is possible with an organised tour, as that’s generally the only way to get the visa. It’s expensive but doable and I’ve spoken with people who’ve done it. A coffee sounds good, drop me a message on Insta @quitandgotravel when you know the dates.

This post re Lebanon is fantastic. I’m traveling alone; do you have any tour guide recommendations? Also, if you’re up for a cup of coffee and a chat, I’ll be there the first week of July.

Hi Stacy, great to hear the post is useful. I never use tour guides (except in North Korea, where it’s mandatory), so can’t recommend one. However, Lebanon is very doable solo. I’d definitely be up for a coffee and should be here that week. Can you drop me a message on Insta? @quitandgotravel

This blog was really helpful – I’m a solo female traveler and have been looking to go to Beirut to visit my friend’s dog and bring him doggie treats (and I guess say hi to my friend too and bring human treats) but with everything that has happened in the past two years it has been a bit difficult to get it organised. Due to my nationality it also appears the visa process will take longer than normal in my current country of residence. I would rather not have to get my (human) friend send some sort of invitation letter in order for me to get a visa, but I guess I’ll just have to see and try and Lebanese Embassy. I look forward to reading more of your blog.

Your poor friend, I can see that he or she is definitely second to the dog! Good luck with the visa though, I hope you get it sorted out okay, and thanks for your kind comments.

Thanks so much for this guide. I’m Lebanese background and even I found it very very useful. My Aussie partner and I are going to Lebanon in September and I’m wondering which neighbourhood to book our Airbnb. We want to be able to walk all of Beirut, prefer to flush toilet paper down the toilet haha and want to be walking distance to cafes, bars and be able to walk home safely afterwards (or is it safer to get a service/taxi?). Also did you have any issues with being overcharged for things? Memories of taxi drivers taking me around the block a couple of times in Syria and charging me double haha

Hi Lili. Great to hear that my blog is even useful to Lebanese! For AirBNBs, Gemayze is probably the best Neighborhood. It’s walking distance to most things and has power more often than Hamra, so is less dark. Beirut is still very safe and walkable, even now. I think it’s a cultural thing, but despite the ever increasing poverty levels, crime rates are still low here. Most people are pretty honest, so rip offs are not common. The worst are taxis, especially from the airport, so use Uber or Bolt and set the app to pay cash (don’t pay more than 200,000 LBP from the airport).

Rowan, as others have said this is a great blog. Many thanks for all this info. I am a keen cyclist but cannot find any of the major adventure tour companies who offer cycling holidays in Lebanon. Do you know of any cycling organisations in Lebanon who might be able to help me put together an itinerary.

Hi David. I’m happy you liked the blog. I focus on independent travel, so not sure about tour companies to be honest. I don’t think cycling is a big thing here though (drivers are not so considerate), but that said, it could be a good way to see the country.

I had planned a trip to Lebanon in May 2020 (tickets paid for and everything) but Covid happened. Since then, Lebanon had gone through some significant changes like the economic crisis, etc, and I was really unsure if this year was the right time to be visiting Lebanon; was thinking of doing so in December.

Your blog had really helped, it is positive yet realistic. I am leaning heavily on traveling to Lebanon this year.

I heard it is easy to do a day trip to Damascus from Beirut? Have you done this trip? If so, was it a good experience?

Hi Ivy. Great to hear that you’re planning to visit Lebanon. Keep your eye on the news, but if it stays like it is now, you’ll have a great time. Day trips to Damascus are easily arranged. I don’t like organised tours, so I haven’t done one. I’m still working on the visa now, but hope to visit Syria independently for a couple of weeks in the near future.

Thank you so much for all this great information. My husband & am planning to move to Jadra, Lebanon with in the next year and I am doing research now and came across your blog. Any information you can send me in a email would be much appreciated. I have never traveled outside the U.S. . We plan on visiting for 2 weeks before we actually move there.

Hey that’s awesome that you’re moving here to Lebanon. It’s a wonderful country. Jadra is an interesting choice of location though! Most of the relevant information is in the blog, but feel free to let me know if you have specific questions.

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The Perfect Lebanon Travel Itinerary

• Last Updated On: September 8, 2023

Lebanon has always been high on my list of places to visit. I’ve been to much of the Middle East and I’ve always found the region to be fascinating in its history and culture. Lebanon is the without a doubt the most liberal of all the Middle Eastern countries. Beirut is known internationally as a party city and its club scene is famous worldwide. Lebanese food needs no introduction and this of course was another reason for my visit.

I spent almost two weeks traveling through Lebanon in 2021 and absolutely loved it. The people are incredibly friendly, even if there is a massive financial crisis taking place as we speak. If you’re looking at inspiration on where to go in Lebanon, or how to plan a trip, then this post is for you!

Visiting Lebanon in 2020 and Beyond

You’ll notice that prices of goods are drastically cheaper than they ever have been and will probably among the cheapest if not the cheapest country you’ll ever visit.

Black market currency

The official exchange rate of the Lebanese Pound/Lira is pegged at 1,500 to $1 USD. From 2019 and beyond, confidence has long disappeared for the Lebanese lira.

There is a parallel black market rate and at the time of writing this post, is more than 10x the official rate (15,000 Lira to the dollar). This rate will continue to change as time progresses.

You will want to bring USD or Euro cash into the country and exchanging it on the black market, thereby completely avoiding ATM withdrawals and credit card payments.

Make sure to read my guide on exchanging money in Lebanon before visiting!

Getting around Lebanon: Rent a car or do day trips?

Lebanon is a very small country. From Tripoli in the north to Tyre in the south, it is only 2.5 hours. From Beirut to Baalbek, it is 1.5 hours. That is the entire country.

Therefore, if you are staying in Lebanon for a long period of time and are looking to see more than Beirut, you might ask if it is worth renting a car or just simply doing day trips around the country?

Day trips from Beirut to the rest of Lebanon

Both are totally feasible and viable options. I met plenty of tourists that elected to just do day trips from Beirut. They didn’t want to rent a car and deal with the craziness of the Lebanese drivers and traffic. I can’t blame them!

From Beirut, you can see every place in Lebanon as a day trip.  For example, Beirut to Saida and Tyre is a perfect day trip to the south of the country. You don’t need a ton of time to see the highlights of these towns. I actually elected to do this myself. I took two day trips: One day to Tripoli and Anfeh in the north, and one to Saida and Tyre in the south. The driver drove me around the entire time and stopped whenever I wanted.

The only downside to doing day trips throughout Lebanon is the constant driving. I found myself rushed to see things at times and once I got back to Beirut, I had to prepare myself for the crazy traffic getting into the city. I did a combination of hiring a driver for day trips, as well as renting my own car to explore the inland area of Lebanon.

In 2020 and beyond, it is very cheap to hire a car with a driver for the day. With the currency depreciation, it’s feasible to hire a driver for the entire day with gas included for $25-30 depending on your itinerary. Negotiate accordingly.

Rent a car in Lebanon

I rented a car for five days to see the mountain areas (Qadisha Valley), Baalbek, and the Bekaa valley. I rented a car after staying in Beirut for five days already. I rented from a company in the city center so I didn’t have to go back to the airport.

For a simple Nissan Automatic car, I paid $20 per day which seemed to be the going rate. This rate included

Driving in Lebanon

I’ll keep this simple. Drivers in Lebanon (and the Middle East as a whole) are crazy drivers. The driving habits in the Middle East can be summarized as “rules are guidelines”. I’ve never seen people stop so infrequently at stop signs and turns. When turning at an open intersection, normally you would look all directions to make sure cars aren’t coming. In Lebanon, cars just slowly drift into the road and you need to react accordingly even if it’s your right of way.

Is Lebanon Safe?

Somehow, someway, Lebanon has retained its reputation of being “dangerous” or “suspicious” in the world reputation scene. Sure they had a civil war many decades ago but there has been no conflict here for a long time. Nevertheless, the media has brainwashed people into associating Lebanon with instability and danger.

I’m here to say, it’s all complete nonsense. Do not listen to the media, and especially do not listen to your friends who heard something from someone.

People in Lebanon are extremely friendly and there were constantly locals approaching me asking me how I liked the country and my stay. The sad part is every person was trying to convince me how Lebanon is not as dangerous as they make it out to be to which I had to reply of course I know this because why else would I be here?

Where I went in Lebanon

I had a total of two weeks to see Lebanon. With this amount of time, it is enough to see the entire country in my opinion without feeling rushed. Even with one week, you could see the majority of the country although you won’t have enough time to settle down anywhere.

If these places are on your list of place to visit, then this is the itinerary for you. Don’t worry, I will have plenty of itinerary examples depending on the amount of days you have to travel.

• Qadisha Valley (Bcharre town and the Gods of Cedars)
• Zahle and the wine region

I spent a lot of days in Beirut as I wanted to experience the famous Beirut nightlife and have my share of delicious Lebanese food.

From Beirut, I took day trips to Tripoli in the north and Saida/Tyre in the south. Following this, I rented a car and went to the Qadisha Valley and stayed in the town of Bcharre. Then I went to Baalbek to see the Roman Ruins.

Full map of my Lebanon Itinerary

Beirut, the Capital of Lebanon

Therefore, Beirut will be everyone’s first experience to Lebanon. And it’s a good first experience in my opinion!

Beirut was once considered the Paris of the Middle East. It’s by and far the most liberal city in the Middle East. Tossing aside the fake glitz of the UAE, Beirut is also the most cosmopolitan city as well. The nightlife in Beirut is world famous with its nightclub scene one of its highlights. While I didn’t visit any nightclubs due to Corona, I went to plenty of cocktail bars, rooftop bars, and lounges.

Everything is true.

Beirut is nothing like other cities in the Middle East and there’s more energy and vibrancy here than most other cities I’ve visited. People are extremely friendly and love to enjoy life.

Where to eat in Beirut

First thing’s first, Lebanon is all about the food. This is probably one of the main reasons I came here. I absolutely love everything associated with Lebanese food. Hummus, Tabouleh, Moutabal, Kofte, Kebabs, Fattoush, Falafel, etc. you name it, I will eat it.

Here are a list of my favorite restaurants:

• Em Sherif: There are multiple locations but make sure to visit the original and the one with the Rooftop bar
• Loris Restaurant:
• Restaurant Joseph: For the best schawarma street food in town, look no further than Restaurant Joseph which has been slanging out the goods for a long time.

In addition to Restaurants, there are so many good cocktail bars, wine bars, and the like. I had some of the best cocktails of my life in Beirut.

• Ales and Tales
• Cyrano Cafe
• Electric Bing Sutt
• Aaliya’s Books

Go to the Harissa Cable Car for amazing views

It’s well worth a visit and I loved coming here around sunset time. Make sure to grab drinks at the Bay Lodge hotel which has dead on views of the Bay. Finish it off with dinner at Al Sultan Brahim and your night will be complete.

Saida and Tyre

Sidon, on the coast 48 kilometers south of Beirut, is one of the Famous names in ancient history. But of all of Lebanon’s cities this is the most mysterious, for its past has been tragically scattered and plundered. In the 19th century, treasure hunters and amateur archaeologists made off with many of its most beautiful and important objects, some of which can now be seen in foreign museums.

After the fortress, the Souk is the main point of interest in Saida. Get lost in the narrow streets and see how the locals live.

The beaches are very nice in Lebanon with huge sandy strips and azure colored waters. I didn’t spend much time on the beach unfortunately but I did visit the famous Cloud 59 Beach bar for a quick drink and a shisha.

Tripoli and Anfeh

The traffic in Tripoli is a bit crazy so I’m glad I came here with a driver who took care of it all. Nevertheless, the souk and the fortress in the center of the city are quite impressive.

The views from the fortress of the Mediterranean sea and the city of Tripoli are beautiful. I don’t think you need to spend much time here unless you have a guide who can give you a proper tour of the city.

Nearby to Tripoli is the coastal town of Anfeh. It was highly recommended to visit as it is considered the Mykonos of Lebanon . There is a strip along the water that contains many white washed houses and blue painted outlines. It does resemble the architecture of the Cyclades a tiny bit. However, you will not find the charm of the Cyclades here. It’s best just to take a flight to Athens and then visit the CYclades instead!

I did stop here for a seafood lunch which was quite delicious before heading back to Beirut.

Qadisha Valley

The Cedars of God Forest is one of the last vestiges of the ancient cedar forest of Lebanon that covered much of the Land of Cedars. The Bcharré site is classified as a “forest reserve” and registered on the World Heritage List by Unesco, along with the neighboring Qadisha valley.

The emblematic tree of the country is becoming rare. The Lebanese forest and its legendary perfumed scents now represent only 7% of the territory. However, we can still admire beautiful relics in the forest of Bcharré, on Mount Lebanon.

This forest is nestled on the western slope of Mount Lebanon on Mount Makmel, between 1,900 and 2,050 meters above sea level, east of the village of Bcharré, which gave it its name. It is smaller than the cedar forest of Chouf, with only 375 trees, but is home to the oldest cedars, some over 3000 years old! One will not fail to admire the famous Cedar of Lamartine, where the famous French poet was ecstatic in 1832. In winter, the place is a ski slope!

Lebanese people are crazy about their Cedar Trees

The Qadisha Valley is famous for its large cedar forests. I will say that it is quite unique and spectacular to see these types of trees in what you’d expect to be a desert landscape. I wouldn’t have thought these Christmas tree lookalikes would grow in such a climate.

There are a lot of these trees too which is why it is the symbol on the Lebanese flag. However, having grown up in the Pacific Northwest of North America, cedar and pine trees were literally dotting every square inch of the landscape I had in my backyard. Not to say that the Gods of Cedars park isn’t cool, but I guess I am just too used to it. I probably would skip the Qadisha Valley if I was limited on time.

Visit the Shouf National Park

One of the constant recommendations I received from people is to visit the Shouf National Park southeast of Beirut. Apparently these forests are much bigger than in the Qadisha Valley. However, I think this would be at the bottom of my list of to-dos given where I’m from!

Baalbek Roman Ruins

Like Petra in Jordan , Baalbek alone deserves the trip to Lebanon. Located in the Bekaa plain in the east of the country, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to some incredibly well-preserved temples. Emperor Augustus had undertaken to build the largest acropolis in the Roman world there. Gigantic remains of this crazy enterprise remain, among the most interesting bequeathed by the Roman Empire.

The temples of Venus, Jupiter and Bacchus, one of the best-preserved temples in the Greco-Roman world, are the highlights of the visit. The work started during the reign of Augustus, around 14 BC. AD, continued until at the end of the 2nd century AD. The name comes from the god Baal, deity of the storm and the rain, worshiped by the Phoenicians and the Canaanites, then the city was baptized Heliopolis at the time of the Greeks, Helios being the god of the sun. Since 1955, Baalbek has hosted a world famous international festival every summer in August.

Artists from all over the world come to perform on the spectacular ruins: ballets, orchestras, soloists, lyrical, jazz or variety singers, as well as theater companies, in a most spectacular setting! Baalbek hosts a world famous international festival every summer in August.

Take many photos

I spent a few hours walking around the ruins taking photos. I couldn’t believe how amazing and the conditions the ruins were still in. The Temple of Bacchus is probably the highlight. It’s the same size as the Parthenon in Athens but in much better condition. Most of the pillars are still in tact, and the inside is completely in tact.

I think some of the best photos are taken directly watching the Temple of Bacchus near to the leftover pillars of the temple of Jupiter. Nevertheless, everywhere I turned was a good photo opportunity so you won’t have any shortage of inspiration here.

The best part of the experience was the lack of crowds. It reminded me of the incredible Roman Ruins in Dougga, Tunisia where I was essentially the only tourist there. There were more people in Baalbek than in Dougga, but you never felt overwhelmed.

Zahle and the Bekaa Valley Wine Region

From Baalbek to Zahle is a quick 1 hour drive from Baalbek and was where I spent the next two nights. Zahle is a picturesque mountain town with great views of the valley. It’s home to a large Christian community and home to most of the wineries in Lebanon.

I spent most of my time visiting different wineries in the region.

Stay at the Grand Kadri Hotel

I stayed at the Grand Kadri Hotel in Zahle. It is definitely one of the nicest hotels in town and you can tell the people that come here are not worried about the devaluation in the Lebanese Lira. The breakfast was good and the shisha from the courtyard was also superb.

Ksara is located just outside of Zahle town. It is the largest winery in Lebanon accounting for almost half of the total production. The estate is beautiful and you can come taste wine or go on a tour at any time.

The history behind wine making in Lebanon dates to pre Roman times. The cellars at Ksara are some of the oldest in the world and they are still used to help in the aging process.

 Kefraya Winery

Kefraya is the second largest winery in Lebanon. Kefraya and Ksara were wine brands I’d seen numerous times already as they are often times on the menus at restaurants.

While Ksara is located in the town, Kefraya is located out of town in the wine country. It is the most picturesque winery as far as having a large estate overlooking the vines. It reminds me of the wineries in South Africa and it is definitely the place to go for a few hours.

They offer tours that take you around the vineyards that includes wine tasting. I would highly recommend visiting this place.

The last stop on the wine tour is the St. Thomas winery. It was the only one still open at 4pm so I decided to pay them a visit. I ended up having a boatload of delicious and a nice long conversation with the owner about the current state of Lebanon which was quite enlightening.

Byblos and Batroun

The last part of the itinerary is to visit the coastal towns of Byblos and Batroun. You could technically do this at any point on the trip but I decided to save this for the end.

Byblos is the prettiest town in Lebanon

Byblos is by far the most beautiful town in Lebanon. Everyone recommended that I visit the town during my stay so of course I knew I had to.

Byblos is the most traditional and most picturesque town in Lebanon. The architecture and buildings date back hundreds and even thousands of years to the Phoenician and Roman times. It was the capital of the Phoenician Empire almost 3,000 years ago and has remained one of the oldest and continuously habited cities in the world (starting from 7,000 BC). It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and rightfully so.

Visit the Souk of Byblos

Byblos is a port town located just north of Beirut. It has a few beaches which are popular with Lebanese as a weekend getaway.

The Souk of Byblos is just one small street, but is very picturesque and you’ll inevitably find yourself here. I find the souk here to be a bit of a “premium souk” in that it was very clean, orderly, and without the chaos in other places I’ve been to in the Middle East.

Byblos Castle

Still standing tall is the  Byblos Castle  or  Crusader Castle , built in the 12th century from indigenous limestone and the remains of Roman structures. Inside you’ll find the Byblos site museum, although a snap from the outside is a sight as is. The grounds are much larger than you’d expect so plan accordingly and roam freely.

Enjoy the sunset from Kino Bar

Grab a drink on the beach at Kino Beach Bar which is an eclectic oceanfront bar that has the most inviting reclaimed wood decoration. The drinks here aren’t that great but the views are fantastic.

Finally, to finish it off, have dinner at Feniqia Restaurant which serves the best Lebanese food in town. I had all the delicious delicacies along with my shisha which is a must!

Stay at Byblos Sur Mer

There aren’t many hotels in Byblos unfortunately but the best option is definitely Byblos Sur Mer. It is a 4* hotel right on the water with ocean front views.

Day by Day Lebanon Itinerary

This is a run down of my itinerary day by day.

Day 1: Land in Beirut, explore Beirut Day 2: Full day in Beirut Day 3: Full day in Beirut, go to Jouneih to take the Harissa cable car for sunset Day 4: Full day Saida and Tyre day trip with a private driver Day 5: Full day Tripoli and Anfeh day trip with private driver Day 6: Beirut to B’charre in the Qadisha Valley Day 7: Qadisha Valley to Baalbek Roman Ruins, stay in Zahle Day 8: Full day wine tasting near Zahle Day 9: Zahle to Byblos Day 10: Full day in Byblos Day 11: Back to Beirut Day 12: Fly home

My itinerary is a bit all over the place. I had a lot of time in Lebanon and elected to spend much of it in Beirut. I really liked the vibe in the city and decided to make the trip more about city life than about the nature.

How to plan a one week itinerary for Lebanon

I had almost two weeks for my trip in Lebanon. I know not everyone will want to dedicate such amount of time to the country so in this section I will offer up suggestions on how to plan your trip if you only have one week. I will use a 7-8 day time frame for this itinerary and of course, you can ask in the comments below any questions on how to amend said itineraries.

Note that I prefer renting a car and driving around Lebanon as opposed to organizing day trips every day from Beirut. If you are uncomfortable driving a car in Lebanon, simply make the itinerary day trips from Beirut.

Day 1: Land in Beirut, explore Beirut Day 2: Full day in Beirut Day 3: Full day Tripoli in the morning, afternoon in Byblos, spend the night in Byblos Day 4: Byblos in the morning, Jouneih and the Harissa Cable car in the afternoon Day 5: Drive to Baalbek and visit the Roman Ruins, drive to Zahle afterwards and spend the night there Day 6:  Visit the wineries of Zahle, afternoon in Anjar town Day 7: Drive to the Shouf National Park, back to Beirut in the afternoon Day 8: Fly out

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Hi Johnny! This post was extremely detailed and helpful — really appreciate the thoroughness! I’m interested in hiring a private driver for day trips and wanted to know if you could share where you found a reliable driver / contact information. Thanks!

Hi my driver was recommended to me by my Airbnb host! He was fantastic. Plz msg me on insta and I can across his details.

May I ask to which places you hired a driver and if you rented a car? etc?? How you found fair and reliable services? I’m not sure how to go about planning my transportation. There will be 3 of us and we will have about 3 weeks. Thanks!

Hi Abigail! Yes I hired a driver for day trips to tyre and another day trip to tripoli. The car was rented to go and see the places in the mountains and baalbek

Such a fantastic information about Lebanon ! I am truly impressed andI would surely want to go there. Many many thanks !

Glad you found it helpful!

Can I connect with you over whats app..i am on +44 7774109596

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Two Days In Lebanon: Things To Do In Beirut And Beyond

Adventure Travel , Asia , Lebanon , Travel | May 3, 2017

This post contains affiliate links, which means I may make a small commission if you buy anything mentioned here. It doesn't cost you anything extra.

When I spent two days in Lebanon with my friend, I arrived with zero expectations. Our short trip showed me there are lots of unique things to do in Beirut and plenty of interesting places to visit in Lebanon outside of its capital city.

Before visiting Lebanon for a short break from Dubai, I didn’t know much about the country at all but. But during my weekend trip I discovered that Lebanon has friendly people, plenty of culture and so much greenery that it feels more than a little bit Mediterranean.

In fact, I almost forgot I was in the Middle East.

Here’s what to do in Lebanon for two days, in case you’re planning your own trip. I’ve covered the best things to see and do in Beirut and top tourist attractions in Lebanon.

Best things to do in Lebanon in two days

Watch my full-length Lebanon travel video on Youtube

Just two days in Lebanon was enough to see the most popular places to go in Beirut and take in some of the highlights in the surrounding areas. Use this guide to plan your trip to Lebanon.

Day one: Find out why Byblos is a top place to visit in Lebanon

Byblos features on all of the Lebanon itineraries I saw before my trip and though we were only staying in Beirut two days, we were keen to explore some popular tourist places to go around Lebanon. And so, after a huge Lebanese-style breakfast at our hotel we jumped in an Uber to Cola Station.

Just North of Beirut and hailed as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Byblos is a UNESCO World Heritage site that predates recorded history. I totally get why it’s one of the most popular tourist spots in Lebanon.

Archeologists have found evidence of life there from every layer of history, from Neolithic remains to relics of the Ottoman Empire and Byblos’ time under French rule. It’s the country’s location at the intersection of the Mediterranean and Arabian world that we can thank for this.

What to do in Byblos

Aside from its obvious small-town Mediterranean charm, Byblos has plenty to entice visitors within its Medieval city walls: a picturesque harbour, souks, the Crusades-era Church of St. John-Mark, traditional Lebanese houses, mosques, a wax museum and a fossil museum, St John the Baptist Church and Byblos Castle – all tumbling down from a mountainous backdrop.

We set off to find the Citadel and somehow completely bypassed it on our first try. We found ourselves wandering around the serene courtyards of the Church of St John instead.

We climbed a wall for this view of a fishing bay after taking a wrong turn. Sometimes, getting lost means finding a destination’s best bits.

Finally, we located the Citadel. The 12th Century limestone walls are at risk of erosion, but have been well maintained – even while the rest of Lebanon was being destroyed and rebuilt.

The view over Byblos and the surrounding areas is stunning.

Where to eat in Byblos

We had a wander around the souks and ate lunch at an amazing restaurant called  Adonai Le Petit Libanais . Every dish was served in a piece of pottery made by the restaurant, and we ordered a selection of Middle Eastern favourites: halloumi with fresh tomatoes and spicy soujuk, olive tapenade with corn chips, homemade hummus, baba ganoush and a big bowl of fattoush.

How to get to Byblos

To get to Byblos from Beirut, we boarded the Number 6 bus to Byblos. The journey took around 1.5 hours (we’d read it took 45 mins) but the bus takes the coast road, so it’s a scenic drive.

I always enjoy riding buses when I’m only in a new place for a short time because it’s a good way to watch the world go by en route to your out-of-town destination. The receptionist at our hotel had told us we shouldn’t use the buses because they were dirty, but they’re not as bad as she made out. We’re no princesses.

My mate had to puke before we boarded the bus, but the driver kindly waited until she’d stopped before setting off. He even supplied a plastic bag! I guess Lebanese bus drivers are used to carting hungover Brits around?

We caught the same bus back to Bierut but after some confused exchanges in our poor Arabic, we learned that it wasn’t going to Cola Station this time. We were dropped at the side of the road and had to get an Uber back to the hotel.

Day two: find the best places to visit around Beirut

On our second and final day in Lebanon we hired a local driver to take us to all of the top attractions around Beirut. The fee was 115 USD. We told him we wanted to see all the usual Lebanon tourist attractions: Jeitta Grotto, Harissa and the Lady of Lebanon.

What we hadn’t bargained for was our driver’s local knowledge. Sure, he took his to the popular sights we mentioned – but he also stopped at places he thought we might like along the way. We saw a few off-the-beaten-path sights that we would never have known about had it not been for him.

Perhaps most importantly, he knew all the best spots for selfies. He even had us climbing over walls for a better backdrop at one point!

The Ruins of Kings

First stop was at The Ruins of Kings in Zouk Mosbeh, where we had an amazing view of the Corniche below.

In the hill below the statue, there’s a tiny grotto where mass is held every day.

Dog’s River

As we wove through the hills towards Jeitta Grottos, we stopped at the side of the road, where our driver pointed out the dried-out Narh Al-Kalib, or ‘Dog’s River’ below.

Jeitta Grotto

At Jeitta Grottos we bought tickets from a friendly lady then hopped on the cable car to the top.

First, we entered the upper grotto. Annoyingly, you’re not allowed to take photographs inside and they actually take your phones and cameras off you upon entry.

The blogger and former teenage rebel in me just had to sneak a camera in, but of course I got caught and escorted back to security. Here’s the blurry pic I managed to snap before I was busted.

From the upper grotto you ride a toy-like train to the lower grotto, where you get in a little boat which takes you through the cave. Serious Disney vibes!

Outside the grottos there’s a tiny zoo which is fun for kids.

On the way back down the hill we stopped at a roadside stall to buy some Syrian sweets and honey from the two refugees who ran the stall, who were friends with our driver. One of them insisted on feeding me by hand.

Zouk Michael

Next stop was another insider secret: the Ottoman-era Zouk Michael. This quaint little street was lined with wooden shops selling the usual wares. It’s a popular spot for wedding photoshoots, and I can totally see why.

From Zouk Michael we could see an ancient Roman Zouk Amphitheatre nestled in the hillside.

Unfortunately, the cable car that takes you to Harissa was closed for maintenance during our weekend in Lebanon, but we weren’t too bothered. After all, we’d just had a ride up to the grottos.

Luckily, this meant we could take advantage of the driver’s knowledge again. When he drove us up to Harissa, he pulled in at St Paul’s Cathedral for another view of Beirut from above.

St Paul’s Cathedral

The Cathedral itself is worth visiting, because its walls are decorated with intricate mosaics.

Lady of Lebanon

Next, we went to see the Lady of Lebanon, a shrine and pilgrimage site that looks out over the city.

We stopped at the food court for some freshly baked cheese manakish for lunch.

The driver noted that we still had some time left before we had to head to the airport, so we could squeeze in an hour and a half in Beirut itself.

Beirut’s Central District

We spent our time wandering aimlessly around the Central District on our own personal Beirut tour. I honestly couldn’t believe how European it felt! With alfresco dining, lush gardens and beautiful facades on almost every building, Beirut’s city centre could hold its weight among the European capitals.

I could easily have been walking around Rome’s modern shopping streets or passing by Vienna’s many architectural feats – had it not been for the abundance of barbed wire and security.

Yep, Lebanon surprised me on almost every level. When I booked my trip I expected to put the fear of God into my mum and have a decent night out at best. What I found instead was a country filled with laidback people, beautiful scenery, scarred but intriguing architecture and heaps of culture.

Okay, our mums still begged us to get on the first flight back throughout our two days there, but I’m glad we didn’t let the travel warnings scare us off visiting Lebanon.

Top tours and activities in Lebanon

Nightlife in beirut.

Lebanon is one of the most religiously diverse countries in the Arab world and it embraces both Western and Arabic culture. So as well as beautiful mosques, you’ll see plenty of drinking spots.

If you’re looking for fun things to do in Beirut at night, I recommend heading to Hamra.

We had pre-drinks (or ‘prinks’, as I like to call them) in our hotel room then walked straight across the street to The Twelve Bar for bespoke cocktails. There are plenty of hole-in-the-wall style bars dotted along Hamra street.

Best nightclubs in Beirut

Later, we got an Uber to B018. This club is hidden in an underground war bunker and we were invited on to the podium above. We danced for a while, confused then got bored and came down. When we got inside, we realised it was B0A8’s 21 st birthday and the place was packed. The club’s roof literally opens halfway through the night, leaving you to dance beneath the night sky.

Where to stay in Beirut

Cheap hotels in Beirut

We stayed on Hamra Street at  Gems Hotel , which was within our budget and ideally located near bars and shops in Beirut. The reception staff are helpful, rooms are clean and comfortable and the free breakfast is good.

Midrange Beirut accommodation

Le Grey Hotel is located in Beirut’s Central District and it’s a beautiful hotel – we popped in to use the phone and felt v impressed.

Luxury hotels in Beirut

InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut is pricey, but it’s a few minutes from the beach, has free breakfast and promises celebrity treatment.

You can check out more places to stay in Beirut and beyond using the Booking.com map below.

Is it safe to visit Lebanon?

We felt completely safe as two females visiting Lebanon without a male companion. There were two odd moments: one when we arrived at the airport and asked an official for help, who then offered us a lift and followed us when we said no, eventually giving us wrong directions to a place Uber would pick us up.

It was dark but we knew better than to accept lifts from strangers – whether he had a weapon and a soldier’s uniform on or not. There was also an incident with the bus driver wanting pictures with us, but it seemed harmless.

Obviously, there have been recent outbreaks of violence, and official websites say that this can happen at any time. I say, it’s up to you whether you feel comfortable visiting Lebanon. Beirut in particular has lots of barbed wire and uniformed men standing around with guns, but we never felt unsafe.

Getting around Lebanon

The buses are fine, a little rough around the edges but cheap. However, they don’t go everywhere and there’s no real timetable.

Uber is the best way to get around Lebanon. If you have a full day of sightseeing planned, do what we did and chat to your Uber driver about hiring him.

A smartphone with data will definitely be useful!

Other useful Lebanon travel tips

Arabic and French are widely used, but we mostly found it easy to get by with English and the occasional shukraan .

If you’re travelling in Lebanon extensively, an Arabic phrase book is bound to make things easier, as is the Lonely Planet guide .

You’ll need travel insurance for visiting Lebanon. Get a quote using the World Nomads box below.

Use my Travel Resources page to save money on your Lebanon trip

If you liked this post or found it useful for planning your own two days in Lebanon, please let me know in the comments and give this post a share on social media!

You can follow While I’m Young on Facebook , Instagram and Twitter .

All photographs were taken on my Olympus Pen E-PL7.

May 3, 2017 at 12:33 pm

Wow this trip sounds awesome! The taxi driver also sounds like a legend and you obviously got to see all the best bits. It’s great to read about a destination that not many people go to as well!

Dannielle Lily says

May 4, 2017 at 11:51 am

That’s why I think it’s so important for travel bloggers to go to these places and share first-hand experiences 🙂

Sam | North East Family Fun Blog says

May 3, 2017 at 7:26 pm

Fantastic post – like your mum, I had pre-conceptions of Beirut and you have blown these away! Lebanon looks like a beautiful country. I completely agree about hiring a guide – you just can’t beat a local’s knowledge.

May 4, 2017 at 11:50 am

Absolutely! Honestly, it’s such a beautiful country and there’s so much to see.

Sarah - Exploring Kiwis says

May 3, 2017 at 8:10 pm

We absolutely loved Lebanon – I totally agree! Where are you off to next?

Next stop Romania, you?

May 3, 2017 at 9:11 pm

I’d never heard of Byblos before, but that’s quite a gem of a place. I’d love to explore the medieval streets and walls and see the scenery you’ve shown here. Sounds like you had a wonderful adventure, and I’m glad you were safe!

May 4, 2017 at 11:49 am

I’d never really heard of it either, but it was so worth visiting!

Evelyne CulturEatz says

May 4, 2017 at 4:17 pm

Wow that is so cool, how amazing you would have two days in a place most people would never think of going. it is just beuatiful. And full of adventure with the bus both ways lol. Great you got a great driver for day 2 with lots of surprise sights. Amazing pics!

May 5, 2017 at 12:19 am

This sounds like SUCH a cool trip! It totally does look like the Mediterranean there – I had no idea! I also love the idea of paying an Uber driver to take you around for the day. Great way to get around safely, easily and see all the sites in a short amount of time. Thank you or this post. It really opened my eyes up to a whole new world I want to explore 🙂

May 5, 2017 at 4:53 am

As much as I love Lebanese food, a visit to Lebanon has just never happened for us!

Looks like a whirlwind couple of days!

Do you know how budget friendly it would be if hotels aren’t your thing? Is there much in the way of backpacker digs?

Tania Mukherjee says

May 5, 2017 at 10:39 am

Haha I am wondering if you accepted the job offer 😀 ! From what I see in the pictures Lebanon looks picture perfect and quite clean, I don’t know why it’s a surprise to me! The driver even provided Emma a plastic bag- I see that as a friendly gesture!

Carmen's Luxury Trvl (@carmensluxtrvl) says

May 5, 2017 at 4:01 pm

Your photos are absolutely stunning! And look at all that yummy good, wow. I absolutely love Lebanese food so Lebanon is high on my travel list. Thanks for sharing 🙂

Claire says

May 5, 2017 at 4:26 pm

I must admit I had no idea what to expect from this post as I know nothing about Lebanon but wow. You’re pictures make me want to pack up and go right now! Thanks so much for introducing me to this amazing country. This is why I love your blog!

Sandy N Vyjay says

May 6, 2017 at 2:34 am

Your post gives a frank perspective of Lebanon and Beirut . This would encourage people to check out and have a vacation in Beirut. It looks too peaceful and easy to explore. This needs to be in everyone’s travel list.

Rita Chbeir Saad says

May 6, 2017 at 8:12 pm

Great article! Beautifully written and as a Lebanese, I feel it does it justice! Thank you!

May 9, 2017 at 9:40 am

I’m so glad!

Jacomijn Heupink says

May 9, 2017 at 2:39 pm

Wauw, you did a lot! I really love the food and the scenery!

Mike Clegg - www.travelanddestinations.com says

May 10, 2017 at 8:23 am

You’ve totally sold it to me. I’ve now added to my Google Maps as a destination I want to visit! Love your pictures btw!

Tina Ugarkovic says

May 11, 2017 at 11:46 am

What a great experience you had! Lebanon and Israel (I know, weird combo) have been on the top of my list for quite some time now..love the food photos heheh. Hopefully I’ll visit it soon ^^

Ami Bhat says

May 15, 2017 at 11:45 am

You did make the most of both your days. Byblos and Harrissa stole my heart through this post of yours. I think I might want to extend a stay in each of these places to explore it fully. Thank you for the introduction to such lovely places.

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This diminutive Mediterranean nation is a fascinating nexus point of the Middle East and the West; of Christianity and Islam; of tradition and modernity. It’s a place where culture, family and religion are all-important, but where sectarian violence can too often erupt – claiming lives and scarring both the landscape and the national psyche.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Temple of Bacchus

Baalbek's Temple of Bacchus is often described as the most beautifully decorated temple in the Roman world, and it's certainly one of the best preserved…

Baalbek Ruins

Dominating the centre of modern Baalbek, this wonderful Roman temple complex is one of the Middle East's major archaeological highlights. The monumental…

National Museum of Beirut

Located on the former Green Line, this is Beirut's major cultural institution. Its impressive, magnificently displayed collection of archaeological…

Shouf Biosphere Reserve

The largest of Lebanon’s three natural protectorates, comprising an incredible 5% of the total land area, this is the largest natural cedar reserve in the…

Al Bass Archaeological Site

This sprawling site lies 2km east of the centre, entered off the highway. Just past the entrance is a vast funerary complex, with hundreds of ornate…

Under the St Joseph university, this atmospheric and beautifully designed museum presents an extraordinary collection of exquisitely selected and…

Main Square

The main square is a showcase of fine Arab architecture, including the Mosque of Emir Fakhreddine Maan, built in 1493, and, behind it, a cobbler's souq…

An enticing blend of tradition and modernity, the web of narrow streets of Tripoli's port quarter makes for wonderful strolling. The Phoenician city stood…

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13 Stunning Places to Visit in Lebanon

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What are the best places to visit in Lebanon? If you’re planning a trip to Lebanon, where should you go? Lebanon is a fantastic little country with so much to see!

The good news is that Lebanon is a compact country. So compact that it’s possible to base in Beirut the whole time and take day trips all over the country. That’s what I did on my trip — and it made it so easy to travel all over Lebanon while coming back to the same bed every night.

One of the things I love most about Lebanon is its cultural diversity. The population is about 45% Christian and 50% Muslim, with 18 recognized religious groups. There’s a sizable Armenian population, too, and people with origins all over the Middle East and the world.

Consequently, there are parts of Lebanon that feel very European, and parts of Lebanon that feel very Middle Eastern. Places where you can default to French and places where you’ll need to know a few words of Arabic.

Lebanon is geographically diverse, too — mountains, deserts, waterfalls, cities of all sizes. In Lebanon you could theoretically ski in the morning and lie on the beach in the afternoon! (Granted, you can only do that in the winter, so it wouldn’t quite be sunbathing weather, but I digress…)

Here are my picks for the best places to visit in Lebanon — along with how to get there, Lebanon safety information, and the best things to do in Lebanon.

Table of Contents

Best Places to Visit in Lebanon

All roads lead to Beirut in Lebanon, and Beirut makes a great base for your whole trip. But as far as day trips go, you have freedom to shake things up.

If you could only visit three places in Lebanon besides Beirut, I would recommend the seaside town of Byblos , the Roman ruins of Baalbek , and the small city of Tyre .

Lebanon is a lot safer than you think it is . You don’t need to worry about war or terrorism more than you do in other countries, and common sense will get you far, but it’s smart to check the latest news before you go.

Baalbek is in the Beqaa Valley, close to the Syria border in Hezbollah-controlled territory. To get to Baalbek , it’s best to hire a private driver or join a day tour from Beirut.

Beirut is one of the best, most vibrant, most exciting cities in the Middle East. Because it’s much more liberal than other Middle Eastern cities, there is a huge party scene, from the wild beach clubs to the roof-retracting nightclubs. But beyond the nightlife, you have centuries of history and different cultures coming together. Oh, and did I mention how good the food is here?!

Have a night out bar-hopping on Armenia Street in Mar Mikael; stroll along the Corniche in the morning; check out the cafes on Hamrun Street; visit the National Museum of Beirut; take the Alternative Tour Beirut to learn more about Lebanon from a holistic perspective; spend a day at a beach club; shop in the Beirut Souks (more a mall than souks).

How to get to Beirut: Lebanon’s land borders are closed, so the easiest way to get to Beirut is to fly. Check Skyscanner for the best rates. There are also some ferries from Cyprus.

For me, Lebanon was part of a larger trip, so I flew to Beirut from Amsterdam via Istanbul on Pegasus Airlines. On the way back I flew from Beirut to Larnaca, Cyprus, spent a few days there, and flew back to Amsterdam.

Where to Stay in Beirut: See the Where to Stay in Lebanon section below for my top accommodation picks in Beirut.

Byblos — known as Jbeil in Arabic — is easily one of the most beautiful places to visit in Lebanon. This seaside village north of Beirut looks like it could be a coastal town in Montenegro with its teal waters, palm trees, sandstone old town, and mountains rising in the background.

You might notice that the word “Byblos” is related to books — well, there’s reason for that. Byblos was a trade center for papyrus, importing it from Egypt and exporting it throughout the Aegean, distributing the earliest books.

Today in Byblos, you can visit the ruins, walk along the water, shop in the souk (now filled with souvenir shops more than anything else), or enjoy fresh seafood at one of the cafes with a water view.

Byblos is one of Lebanon’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, designated for being one of the oldest Phoenician cities, inhabited since Neolithic times, and for helping create the Phoenician alphabet.

How to get to Byblos: Byblos is about a 45-minute drive from Beirut. It’s doable with an Uber, but you may have trouble finding an Uber to take you back to Beirut. Minibuses to Byblos (Jbeil) leave from Charles Helou bus station in Beirut, though they drop you off along the highway, about a 15-minute walk from town. This day tour from Beirut includes Byblos, Jeita Grotto, and Harissa.

Tyre, also known as Sour (pronounced soor ), was one of the most important cities on the Mediterranean. Today, this city in southern Lebanon is home to fine Roman ruins perched up against the sea, a pleasant and walkable small town, incredibly friendly people, and fresh flowers bursting out in every direction.

Some places give you great vibes from the moment you arrive. That was Tyre to me. It was walking along the seaside and having fresh orange juice with a mother and her young son. It was being one of the few people at the ruins, wondering why it wasn’t full of tourists. It was wandering through the town and photographing each piece of it.

Tyre is one of Lebanon’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, designated for its ancient ruins, history as a Phoenician city, founding of cities like Cadiz and Carthage — and their achievement of inventing purple dye!

How to Get to Tyre: Tyre is about a one hour and 45-minute drive from Beirut. For public transportation, the minibus to Tyre (Sour) leaves from Cola Intersection in Beirut and you may need to change minibuses in Sidon (Saida) along the way. This day trip from Beirut visits Tyre, Sidon, and Maghdouche.

Harissa is home to one of the most famous sights in Lebanon: the Our Lady of Lebanon statue, perched on a mountaintop, seeming to look over the nation. Come to Harissa and you, too, can enjoy this Lebanese pilgrimage site — and spectacular views at 650 meters above sea level.

The Sanctuary here was created to honor the Virgin Mary — and serves as a place for peace-gathering workshops and activities between Christians and Muslims, and denominations within Lebanon’s 18 religious groups.

The most fun way to get to Harissa is to take a cable car to the top! It leaves from the seaside city of Jounieh.

How to get to Harissa: Harissa is about a 40-minute drive from Beirut. While you can drive there, you might enjoy it more if you drive to Jounieh and take the cable car to Harissa, a nine-minute journey. For public transportation, the minibus to Jounieh leaves from Charles Helou bus station in Beirut. This day tour from Beirut includes Harissa, Byblos and Jeita Grotto.

Get ready to see some of the best Roman ruins of your life! I’m not a huge fan of ruins in general, but Baalbek is home to some of the best ruins I’ve ever seen, the kind that stun you into silence. The scale alone is mind-boggling.

Baalbek is the ruins of the city once known as Heliopolis, the City of the Sun. The four temples here — dedicated to Jupiter, Mercury, Venus, and Bacchus, after Roman gods — are some of the largest remaining temples of the Roman Empire. You can also witness the two of the largest stone blocks in antiquity: the Stone of the Pregnant Woman, clocking in at 1,000 tons, and a block simply known as the megalith, clocking in at 1,650 tons!

If you’re looking to feel like an adventurer in Lebanon, there’s no better place than Baalbek. Climb to the top of the temples and enjoy the views around you, as the most powerful Romans once did.

Baalbek is one of Lebanon’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, designated for its history as a Phoenician city and its enormous ruins, which are one of the finest surviving examples of Roman architecture.

How to get to Baalbek: Baalbek is about a two-hour drive from Beirut. I recommend spending a day exploring Baalbek in tandem with Anjar and the Beqaa Valley, possibly including a winery. This is best done with a private driver or day tour. This day tour from Beirut includes Baalbek, Anjar, and stop at Ksara Winery.

For public transportation, go to Cola Intersection in Beirut and say you want to go to Baalbek; you will be brought to a minibus to Chtaura, then you can change minibuses to get to Baalbek.

The drive to Bcharré, or Bsharri in Arabic, takes you through the winding roads of the Qadisha Valley, into river-carved canyons and mist-covered mountains. From there you’ll enjoy views that pull on your heartstrings. If you visit in the winter, you might even get to see snow.

Bcharré is famed for being the home of Lebanese-American poet, writer and artist Kahlil Gibran. The Gibran Museum was once a shelter for hermetic monks, carved into life from the rocks; today, it hosts Gibran’s tomb and a collection of his writings and drawings.

And the view above, one of my favorite views in Lebanon, it taken from the museum itself.

How to get to Bcharré: Bcharré is about a two-hour drive from Beirut. For public transportation, there is a daily minibus to Bcharré (Bsharri) that leaves from Dowra Intersection in Beirut. This day tour takes you through Bcharré, the Qadisha Valley, and the Cedars of Lebanon.

Cedars of God

Cedars are one of the most recognized symbols of Lebanon today. It proudly adorns the Lebanese flag. For centuries, these trees were lauded for their strength. The Phoenicians used their wood for boats; the Egyptians used their resin for tombs. Even U2 has a song called Cedars of Lebanon.

Sadly, there aren’t a lot of cedars remaining today. While they once covered the countryside around Lebanon, massive deforestation has led to their numbers dwindling. Cedars of God Park outside Bcharré is one of the places to see them. It’s worth visiting and hiking through the park to see their majesty up close — but seeing so few of them may leave you a bit depressed.

The cedars are fiercely protected today, however, and reforestation efforts are underway. But they take a long time to grow to adulthood, we won’t be seeing abundant cedar forests for decades.

The Cedars of God are one of Lebanon’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, shared with the Kadisha Valley. They received this designation for their history as the most prized wood used for constructing religious buildings.

How to get to the Cedars of God: Cedars of God in Bcharré is about a two-hour drive from Beirut. For public transportation, there is a daily minibus to Bcharré (Bsharri) that leaves from Dowra Intersection in Beirut. This day tour takes you through Bcharré, the Qadisha Valley, and the Cedars of Lebanon. Alternatively, this tour gives you a full day of hiking in the Cedars .

Jeita Grotto

Jeita Grotto is just outside Beirut, making it a super-easy afternoon trip (and a cool relief from a hot day!). This grotto is a system of two limestone caves. They consist of two sets of caves: the lower caves and the upper caves.

The lower caves are home to a river that provides fresh water for many people in Lebanon, and you can visit by boat. It’s a spooky but beautiful experience, especially in the boat, with the water lit up bright blue. The upper caves have a pathway to explore on foot, and they’re home to the largest stalactite in the world: 8.2 meters (27 feet) long!

Keep in mind that Jeita Grotto is VERY strict about no photos allowed. Don’t try to sneak one.

Jeita Grotto is close to Harissa and Byblos, making it a great day out to visit all three. (Though you may want to allot the most time to Byblos.)

How to get to Jeita Grotto: Jeita Grotto is about a 30-minute drive from Beirut. You can easily take an Uber there, as I did; you can’t pick up Ubers there, though, so I took a taxi from Jeita Grotto on to Byblos. This day tour from Beirut includes Jeita Grotto, Harissa, and Byblos.

Qadisha Valley and Qozhaya

The Qadisha Valley feels like a world away from Beirut — but in a day trip you can see quite a bit of it. Mountains rise into the mist; rivers wind through the countryside, and mammoth rock faces give way to monasteries. The Qadisha Valley — also called the Kadisha Valley — was home to some of the earliest Christians fleeing persecution.

Qozhaya (Kozhaya) is one of the most important monasteries in the Qadisha Valley, and home to a convent dedicated to St. Anthony. A long drive through a wooded canyon takes you to the buildings, examples of Arabic architecture in the Middle Ages, and a rock-hewn chapel painstakingly built inside a cave.

The Qadisha Valley is one of the best places to visit in Lebanon if you’re looking to enjoy nature. Here you can hike, climb mountains, or even ski.

The Qadisha Valley is one of Lebanon’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, designated for its history as one of the most important early Christian monastic settlements.

How to get to Qozhaya: The Qadisha Valley is about a 90-minute drive from Beirut. Qozhaya is best visited by hiring a private driver or booking a day tour from Beirut. This day tour takes you through Bcharré, the Qadisha Valley, and the Cedars of Lebanon.

Sidon, also known as Saida, is a port city to the south of Beirut. Though it has a storied history, Sidon is one of the lower-key, calmer cities to visit in Lebanon, and one of the easier side trips from Beirut.

Sidon is famous for two places in particular: its outstanding souks, some of the most picturesque in Lebanon, which sell both traditional and modern wares in their traditional small stalls; and the Sea Castle, which was built by the crusaders as a fortress of the Holy Land.

Sidon is about 45 minutes from Tyre, so it makes sense to pair them together on a day trip from Beirut.

How to get to Sidon: Sidon is about a one-hour drive from Lebanon. For public transportation, take a minibus to Sidon (Saida) from Cola Intersection in Beirut. This day trip from Beirut visits Tyre, Sidon, and Maghdouche.

If you’re visiting the ruins of Baalbek, you should visit Anjar too — and most drivers or tours will take you to both. Anjar may not have the sweeping majesty of Baalbek, but these ruins have something unique: spectacular arches that were designed by the Umayyads. Before the Anjar ruins were studied by archaeologists, there was no other evidence of the Umayyad Caliphate in Lebanon.

Anjar’s ruins are just a stone’s throw from the Syrian border (a mountain range divides the two countries). The city of Anjar is also home to one of the biggest communities of the Armenian diaspora in Lebanon. The city is also known for its four-sided wells.

Anjar is one of Lebanon’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, designated for its ruins, which survive as an example of city planning under the Umayyads.

How to get to Anjar: Anjar is about a 90-minute drive from Beirut. This destination is best seen in tandem with Baalbek and the Beqaa Valley, either by hiring a private driver or booking a day tour. This day tour from Beirut includes Baalbek, Anjar, and stop at Ksara Winery.

Ksara, Wine Country, and the Bekaa Valley

Did you know that Lebanon has a thriving wine scene? That might be surprising for a Middle Eastern country, but not so much in retrospective when you consider its multi-ethnic background and its location right on the Mediterranean.

The best wines grow in high-altitude areas of Bekaa Valley, close to Baalbek and Anjar. Whites are nice but forgettable; where the region truly shines is Bordeaux-style reds and dry rosés.

Chateau Ksara is one of the popular wineries and they welcome travelers for tours, tastings, and lunches. Of course, if you plan on sampling the wines, you should not be driving that day — this is a good time to come on a tour or book a private driver!

How to get to Ksara and the Bekaa Valley: Chateau Ksara is a 90-minute drive from Beirut. Many tour companies include a stop at Chateau Ksara as part of their tours in the Bekaa Valley. This day tour from Beirut includes Baalbek, Anjar, and stop at Ksara Winery. Alternatively, this wine tour spends the whole day visiting wineries in the Bekaa Valley .

Finally, there’s Tripoli, or Trablous in Arabic — the second-largest city in Lebanon and a place that isn’t on most travelers’ itineraries. (Oh, and it’s definitely not the Tripoli in Libya!) If you do visit, though, you’ll get to enjoy a warm and welcoming city little-touched by tourism.

Tripoli has seen some hard times, and it’s one of the poorer cities in Lebanon. But there is a lot of beauty here — an Old City brimming with Mamluk architecture; dozens of souks, some of which specialize in gold or silver or fruits and vegetables or soap; and friendly locals eager to welcome you.

The El Mina neighborhood of Tripoli almost feels like another city, more like a calm seaside village. Offshore you can visit the Palm Islands Reserve and its protected turtles. Be sure to try some of Tripoli’s famous sweets (and if you’re a foreigner in the souk, everyone’s going to want you to sample theirs!).

How to get to Tripoli: Tripoli is a 90-minute drive from Beirut. For public transportation, take the Connexion bus from Charles Helou Station, which takes closer to two hours. This Tripoli day trip from Beirut gives you several hours in Tripoli, plus a stopover in Batroun or Byblos on the way back.

Is Lebanon Safe?

Is it safe to travel around Lebanon? Like most places in the Middle East, Lebanon is a lot safer than cable news would have you believe. The media paints the image of war, suicide bombers, and riots. Lebanon does have its problems — and has had some tough situations in recent years — but it’s not a war zone.

I traveled Lebanon as a solo woman in 2018 and didn’t feel uncomfortable at all — in fact, I was pleased with how much respect I was given as a woman. Then again, I chose not to visit Tripoli on advice from a local woman who advised me not to go alone (though other locals later told me that as an experienced solo traveler, I would have been fine).

In many ways, I felt safer as a woman in Lebanon than I have felt in many other countries. At one point, I had to sit next to a man on a minibus (usually women are sat next to women, but sometimes there’s a full bus and no other option). The man left six inches of space between us! That NEVER happened on the subway in New York!

Another issue is that part of the Bekaa Valley, including Baalbek and Anjar, is controlled by Hezbollah. When you enter that area, you pass through military checkpoints, as you do throughout Lebanon. (They are fast and easy and the guards usually have a smile for you.) Yes, it’s unnerving, especially since Hezbollah flags are for sale as souvenirs (!!), but most of the time tourists are able to visit safely.

The most important thing is to do your research before you arrive. Lebanon is not a place to arrive on a whim; doing proper research is essential. So where do you start?

I found this detailed post by Against the Compass  to be an excellent resource for travel safety in Lebanon. It’s updated periodically with the latest safety information. I encourage you to save it and take a closer look before your trip.

I also recommend checking out the  US State Department travel advisory  and  UK travel safety advice  for Lebanon. I find that the US warnings tend to be more alarmist, while the UK warnings tend to be more realistic.

Most importantly, travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — and to anywhere else in the world, frankly. If you need to be hospitalized with a broken bone or appendicitis, or if you have an emergency and miss your trip, or if you get robbed on a bus, travel insurance will help you recoup your financial losses. I use and recommend  World Nomads .

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: Is it Safe?

Top 10 Travel Safety Tips for Women

Where to Stay in Lebanon

Where’s the best place to stay in Lebanon? If you’re trying to see a lot of the country in a relatively short amount of time, it makes the most sense to stay in Beirut and do day trips. I stayed at the Radisson Blu Martinez . But there are options for all kinds of travelers.

If you want a fancy, crazy luxury experience: If you want top-notch luxury finishings and decor, go with the Sofitel Beirut Le Gabriel — it’s the best. If you want a splashed-out resort experience, go with the Movenpick Beirut , which has its own massive beach club.

If you want a small but funky local boutique hotel: The Albergo Hotel in the Achrafieh neighborhood has plant-filled terraces, local over-the-top decor, and a rooftop with a pool and outstanding views of the city.

If you want a mid-range hotel: The Radisson Blu Martinez , where I stayed, ticks all the boxes. The rooms are simple and the decor is dated, but it’s a solid option in a great neighborhood close to everything.

If you want a cheap but value-for-money place to stay: Loft 29 Residence is in the heart of the cool Hamra neighborhood, has all the facilities of apartments like laundry and a kitchen, and offers a free airport pickup in addition to very well-priced rooms.

Find deals on more places to stay in Beirut here.

How to Get Around Lebanon

There are three main ways to get around Lebanon: you can get around by driving (either renting a car, hiring a private driver, or using Uber for short distances), you can take public transportation (mostly minibuses), or you can book organized day trips.

Should you rent a car in Lebanon? For most people, I don’t recommend it. Lebanon is home to some of the worst driving I’ve ever seen (it’s up there with Georgia and Malta). Traffic into and out of Beirut is hectic, and drivers don’t hesitate to cut across entire highways, with no warning or turn signal.

I’ve driven in lots of countries, but I had ZERO desire to drive in Lebanon once I realized how crazy it would be. You may be different, though. If you thrive in driving in erratic environments, you might enjoy driving in Lebanon.

Otherwise, there’s hiring a private driver (which can start at $150 per day and get pricier from there); and hiring one-way taxis and/or Ubers. Ubers are mainly based in Beirut, so you’ll need to use taxis on the way back.

It’s also worth noting that not a lot of drivers in Lebanon have working seat belts in their cars.

Taking public transportation is another option. Minibuses operate from Beirut all over Lebanon, departing from Cola Intersection (usually points northeast and south) and Charles Helou Bus Station (usually points north).

It’s chaotic when you get there and it seems like there are no rules! But ask where you’re supposed to go and people will help direct you. Women are sat next to women on minibuses unless there’s no other option; you pay when you arrive at your destination. Bring small bills.

I found Tyre and Sidon to be an easy day trip to do by public transportation: it’s a straightforward journey down the highway; the minibuses drop you off in town; both cities can be easily explored on foot.

Finally, there are group day tours from Beirut. I’m not usually a take-a-day-tour-on-the-bus person, but I was glad I did two tours in particular: one to the Qozhaya Valley with Bcharré and the Cedars of Lebanon , and one to Baalbek, Anjar, and Ksara Winery . Those trips would be impossible to do in a day on public transit, and they went too far for an Uber or cab driver.

More on Lebanon:

What’s It REALLY Like to Travel in Lebanon?

More from the Middle East:

Visiting Petra in Jordan

Hanging Out in Kadikoy in Istanbul

Visiting the Burj al’Arab in Dubai

Have you been to Lebanon? What are your recommendations?

Arzo Travels

Solo Female Travel – Switzerland, Europe and Beyond

5 DAYS IN LEBANON – ITINERARY

ITINERARY FOR 5 DAYS IN LEBANON – WHERE TO GO

Table of Contents

Are you planning your Lebanon itinerary and wondering about the best places to visit in Lebanon in 5 days ? This post will help you find out about the top Lebanon attractions + more travel tips.

An often overlooked but definitely great travel destination in the Middle East is the small country of Lebanon. It is a beautiful, small country with friendly people, ancient sights, modern cities, cute villages, pretty landscapes, and wild nightlife – that is what you can expect.

Since I am from Germany , I have always been around Lebanese people, but the country had never been really high on my bucket list. Eventually, though, I added it to the list and went. And what can I say? Lebanon was a fun place to visit and exceeded my expectations . Was everything perfect? No, for sure not. Was it still fun? Yes, definitely.  

So, I created a “5 days Lebanon itinerary” for you that includes my favorite places + more useful tips.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. This means I might earn a small commission when you buy a product (at no extra cost to you) after clicking on my link. More about it  here .

TRAVEL TIPS FOR YOUR LEBANON ITINERARY

A bit crazy, hectic, and chaotic – here is what to expect when visiting Lebanon. Find out where to go and what to see in only 5 days in Lebanon. While I wished that I had two more days, this 5-day Lebanon itinerary allowed to me get a good glimpse of the country and get to see some wonderful places.

Before talking about the best places to visit in Lebanon in 5 days (or so), here are some travel tips.

How to Get to Lebanon

I suggest flying into Beirut. There are many flights from Istanbul and other countries in the Middle East, and it allows you to combine your trip easily with a trip to Jordan , Istanbul, or other nearby destinations.

How to Get Around in Lebanon

• If you are brave , you can rent a car and explore Lebanon on your own.
• However, driving in Lebanon seems very crazy because I experienced it as crazy, hectic, and wild, where drivers make their own rules.
• This did not only apply to Beirut but also to many other places. Streets are always crowded, and an extra car would only add to the pollution (which is a big problem in the country).

However, the alternatives are not perfect, but there are some fun other ways to get around.

I mostly used the minibusses to get around.

• There are some newer ones (as you can see in the picture) and some which were really old.
• In general, they are for sure not fancy, and the drives were insane in some parts, but they were fun.
• Yes, there were times, I was, legitimately, scared for my life – even though I was just a passenger – but in the end, it all went well.
• And in the end, I did not have to worry about driving myself.
•  Whether I went to Baalbeck, Byblos, or Tyre, it was possible to go in the small buses to many destinations in Lebanon and get around for very little money.

UBER / TAXI

• There are also Uber and taxis available, but I suggest only using Ubers in Lebanon if needed.  My first time using Uber was in Lebanon, actually. I did not use them often, but I liked Uber. There are plenty of Ubers available, and you do not have to worry about being ripped off.
• Taxis can be tricky – I used them twice. Once from the airport to the city center (not a pleasant experience) and once I got on a very old Mercedes with an older taxi driver. We discussed the fare in advance and that was a good deal (you should be aware of the distances).

Where to Stay in Lebanon

For this itinerary, I suggest staying in Beirut most of the time. Lebanon is small but stretched, and Beirut is quite centrally located.

I did only day trips (using minibusses for most of the day tours). Getting around in Lebanon is time-consuming, and even an 80-km drive can take up to 3 hours. Still, you will also get to see different landscapes and do not have to worry about checking in and checking out all the time.

However, if you stay for more than 5 days in Lebanon, it might make sense to book one or two nights near Byblos and do a few trips from there, so you avoid too much driving.

• I stayed in a hostel/hotel in Hamra – a popular district in Beirut. There are dorms, but you can also book private rooms. The great thing about this hostel is that it has a pool on the rooftop. Check out rates at Hamra Urban Gardens.
• If you are looking for luxury accommodation , you might want to check out Four Seasons Hotel Beirut.  It comes with a great location, and the views from the rooftop are great!

What to Eat in Lebanon

The good news: Lebanon is foodie heaven!

Whether you are a meat lover  or a vegan , this country has amazing cuisine . So, as someone who eats veganish (and strictly vegetarian), I was in heaven. All the delicious food was to dream of. Of course, there are falafel & hummus and the fresh Fattoush salad, but there was so much more to eat and enjoy.

It is more diverse than in many other countries in the Middle East. Though I love Arabic food in general, Lebanon has probably one of the best cuisines in the world, so plan in enough time to enjoy some good food.

Safety in Lebanon

I am generally cautious but did not feel the need to take extra precautions. Despite its very complicated history (and present), it is a safe destination to visit (INFO: SITUATION MIGHT HAVE CHANGED IN 2024)

However, if you visit these days, there might be some demonstrations and problems .  

If you stay in a hotel/hostel, you will not be strongly affected by regular blackouts (even though there are many).

Also, not all public services function properly, like waste collection . I must say that Lebanon is – unfortunately – very dirty in many parts, and you will see tons of trash everywhere. However, I doubt that this is the result of the irregular waste collection, but more from people just littering wherever they go.

BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN 5 DAYS IN LEBANON

Let´s start with the capital of the country: Beirut.

Beirut – 2 Days

My tip is to spend 1.5 or two days in Beiru t and explore the gems of the city.  Though  Beirut is the capital, it is still quite small, and with 2 days, you will have time to see the main attractions and places. 

My tip for the first day (especially if you do not have a full day) is to visit the American University first and explore this area for an hour or so before heading to the Rauche Rocks (for the sunset) , and then having dinner/drinks there before strolling the promenade . Start this day slowly and prepare for a busy day 2.

If you have more time on your hands, visit Hamra – a popular busy area with many cafes and shops. This is also a good place to visit in the evening.  

Day 2 in Beirut will be busier. Start at the Sursock Museum and then walk down and visit the St. Nicolas Stairs, the St. Elian & Gregory Cathedral, and Beirut Souks, and stroll the Gemayzeh area – this is also a lovely area to have lunch or dinner.

Then, make sure to visit Zaitunay Bay and stroll Beirut´s Marina , where you will find – besides yachts – a lot of restaurants, too.

The most stunning building in Beirut is the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque .

• Ma ke sure to not only admire the architecture from the outside but also pay a visit inside.
• The entrance is free,
• and you do get something to cover yourself up with if you are not dressed appropriately. 

Beirut is one of the very best places to go out – even I went to a club. Okay, it was during the week, and there was not that much going on, but if you want to experience the infamous nightlife in Beirut, visit during the weekends. There are many rooftop bars and clubs where you can dance the night away.

Balbeeck – 1 Day

Thanks to the efforts of archaeologists, it is still in great condition . So it is not a surprise it is actually quite busy  because many people want to see this exquisite place.  

• Getting there is time-consuming but worth it . 
• Either take a minibus (we had to change buses once, and it took more than 2.5 hours in total, but it was an interesting ride), join an organized group, or hire a car and get there yourself.  
• In early July through August, there is an international festival held in Balbeeck.

Jeita Grotto – Harissa – Byblos  – 1 Day

My favorite day was when I visited these three spots in one day because they are some of the best places to visit in Lebanon.

Many tour operators offer tours to these places in one day, and it is definitely doable.  

One of the girls I met at the hostel where I stayed and mostly used minibusses to get around (but also Uber and a taxi). It saved us tons of money this way – and it was fun!

Jeita Grotto

The first stop is probably Jeita Grotto, which is less than 20 km north of Beirut. The Jeita Grotto is a system of two separate, but interconnected, karstic limestone caves spanning an overall length of nearly 9 kilometers. 

I am surely no expert on visiting caves , but I have seen a few over the years – and these were my favorites.

This limestone cave is imposing, and it exceeded my expectations. The grotto was discovered in 1836 by an American and opened in 1958 (Lower Grotto) and 1969 (Upper Grotto).

UPPER GROTTO

• After a scenic drive (Uber) from Beirut, you can get out at the funicular station.  
• Buy your ticket (cash only) for a bit more than 11€, and then you can use the funicular to go up.
• It is a very short ride up, and once there, you can explore the Upper Grotto.  
• Over a distance of 700 meters – which is open to the public –  you’ll find many lime formations, which come in all kinds of sizes and shapes.  
• If you look closely, you’ll find many different “animals,“ “vegetables,“ and more.
• It did not take us too long to go through, and after probably less than 30 minutes, we were walking out and walking down to the Lower Grotto.

LOWER GROTTO

• At the Lower Grotto , you can do a short boat ride over a distance of 400 meters .   Don´t worry – you don’t have to row yourself. Just sit down and enjoy the short electro ride.  
• It is quite chilly inside, so bring a pullover with you (around 16 degrees Celsius).

All those activities are included in the ticket price (funicular, Lower and Upper Grotto, and a ride on the mini train, which I did not use).

A documentary is also shown in different languages.  We missed the English version and would have had to wait for a few hours for the next one. So, if you want to watch it, ask for the times beforehand.

The whole tour took less than one hour , and on the way to the car park, we also spent time in the pretty gardens on the property.

Jounieh / Harissa – Téléférique  

One of the best tourist attractions in Lebanon is going up via the Téléférique.

I am all about the views, and here you can probably experience some of the country’s best views.

There are several cafes/restaurants with good views and also playgrounds if you visit Lebanon.

From Harissa, we took a minibus and headed to Byblos.

Byblos was another of my favorite places to visit in Lebanon . It is a charming little village with a long history. Located about 40 kilometers north of  Beirut , it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world – with over 7,000 years of history. It received UNESCO World Heritage Status in the 1980s.  

The minibusses leave from the highway, so you need to get there to take them. Unfortunately, I did not save the exact location, but if you ask for the minibus to Byblos, locals might help you.

I am all about cute cafes, narrow streets, and pretty views, and I found all of that in Byblos. The village is small, and we strolled Byblos for around 2 or 3 hours before having an early dinner.  

Check out the ancient fishing harbor, the small but pretty historical center with its narrow streets and small shops. Make sure to stroll the side streets for the cute cafes .

If you‘re in Lebanon for just 5 days – or something like that – 1 day is definitely enough to see the before-mentioned 3 places in one day.

Yes, it might be a busy day (whether you join guided tours or organize it yourself), but it is worth the hassle. This day was my favorite day in Lebanon.

Tyre – 1 Day

You should add at least one day in the south of the country to your Lebanon itinerary. I opted for Tyre (Sour) and wanted to experience a lesser-known place.

Tyre is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.   It is a small town (but busier than Byblos) with several Roman and Byzantine archaeological sites , colorful buildings , and a busy town center.

MORE PLACES TO VISIT IN LEBANON

With five days in Lebanon, I got a good idea of the country. I wish I had two more days to hike in the mountains because Lebanon is known for some pretty mountain areas, like Qadisha Valley .  

Qadisha Valley

It is great for hiking in the summer and good for winter sports in the winter . If I had 7 days in Lebanon, I would have stayed a night in Byblos, and on my way back to Beirut, I would have stopped at some villages and towns along the way.

Lebanon – this small Middle Eastern country is known for its rich history, diverse culture, and stunning landscapes, yet very underrated. Despite facing periods of political instability and conflicts, Lebanon boasts a vibrant capital, Beirut, renowned for its nightlife and cuisine.

Looking back now, I am pretty happy with how I created my 5-day Lebanon itinerary and didn’t regret the way I planned my trip at all.

So, this is why I hope this Lebanon itinerary helps you to plan your trip as well (and if Lebanon isn’t on your bucket list yet, then make sure to add it now) – it is a beautiful country that deserves much more recognition.

Hopefully, these tips on the best places to visit in Lebanon will help you plan your Lebanon trip!

• READ MORE: Is Jordan safe for solo female travelers?
• Find out about the best stay to visit in Jordan

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10 Unforgettable Places to Visit in Lebanon

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I was hosted by  TourLeb  while uncovering all the best places to visit in Lebanon. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

Want to experience Lebanon firsthand? Come with me on a GROUP TRIP to Lebanon this Summer (Aug 19 – 27, 2023). Space is limited. Reserve your spot with a deposit by  clicking this link .

“Lebanon is an energy vortex. It’s beautiful chaos. People that come always find their own personal reasons to return.” 

This small coastal Mediterranean country is brimming with rich culture and history, people as warm as they are resilient, and landscapes as varied as those of countries 20 times its size. There are so many amazing places to visit in Lebanon, it’s almost impossible to know where to begin! 

Of course – I didn’t really know any of this before I visited Lebanon for myself. 

All I knew, ever since I was 13 years old, was that Lebanese food was my favorite cuisine in the world. As a kid, I knew that one day I needed to visit the land that blessed the world with shawarma, kibbeh, falafel, hummus, and tabbouleh. 

I knew Lebanon would be delicious. But what I didn’t expect in my wildest dreams was just how many things there are to do, see, and experience in the Pearl of the Middle East. 

Should You Explore Lebanon Solo or With a Guide? 

Despite its small size, there are so many amazing places to visit in Lebanon, and it’s well worth exploring every corner of this tiny country. That said, Lebanon is not the easiest country to navigate on your own. You can certainly rent a car, but military stops, gas crisis issues, and dizzying traffic might make driving in Lebanon challenging for some visitors. For an easier experience, I recommend hiring a driver, booking day tours from Beirut, or embarking on a guided trip when visiting this country.

I visited Lebanon with TourLeb, a women-owned tour company-meets-social enterprise that prioritizes responsible tourism and uplifting local businesses. I share more about why visiting Lebanon with TourLeb was so amazing in this post , but in short, this company is so well-connected and well-equipped to navigate the country and cater their custom itineraries to your specific interests. Literally – no matter what you want to do, TourLeb can make it happen. In my 10 days visiting Lebanon, I wanted to see it ALL. TourLeb arranged it so that I managed to visit every place on this list! 

For more DIY travelers, TourLeb can also provide support with everything from itinerary planning to making recommendations and finding you drivers, leaving you to travel the country yourself without a guide if you prefer.

If you’re interested in visiting Lebanon with TourLeb, mention ‘Rachel Off Duty’ when booking  to get up to 15% off a private tour of 3 days or more.  Contact them here .

However you plan to explore, read on for a short list of some of my favorite places to visit in Lebanon! From mountainous wine regions to labyrinthine souks, ornate Mamluk mosques to monasteries carved into cliffs, prepare to be blown away by complexity and diversity of it all. Lebanon is one of my favorite countries I’ve visited to date.

Travel to Lebanon with Me!

I’m hosting a group trip to Lebanon this summer! From August 19 – 27, 2023, we’ll walk the footsteps of ancient Romans, cheers to delicious mediterranean wines, dance the night away in Beirut, experience unmatched Lebanese hospitality, uncover palaces and hammams, soak up the sun at the beach, and eat like you’ve never eaten before.

See the full itinerary here  or click the button below to reserve your spot! (LIMITED SPOTS AVAILABLE)

10 of the Most Unforgettable Places to Visit in Lebanon

Beirut will most likely be your very first stop, and you should dedicate some time to this chaotic but mesmerizing city that marches to its own rhythm. Lebanon has undergone many changes and shifts in the 100+ years since the country formed. But Beirut has seen it all, making it one of the most fascinating places to visit in Lebanon.

Beirut made global news most recently in 2020 after the tragic Beirut Blast, and the face of the city still has noticeable remnants of the incident throughout. You’ll notice this as you walk around, but you’ll also notice that the city has remarkably rebuilt and recovered in a short amount of time, and there’s so much to see.

Things to Do in Beirut:

• Wander around downtown Beirut, and see the Martyrs’ Square , the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque , the Al-Omari Grand Mosque , the St. George Maronite Cathedral , and The Egg (an unfinished Dome Cinema that I believe has a history of holding late-night parties and raves)
• Go shopping or coffee shop-hopping in Saifi and Hamra 
• Try your haggling skills on in search of gold, silver, and basically anything else in Bourj Hammoud, Beirut’s Armenian quarter 
• Walk along the Corniche  
• Explore Beirut’s lively bar scene (that goes until late, late in the evening) in Hamra or Mar Mikhael. Wandering along Gouraud Street in the bohemian, funky Gemmayzeh neighborhood was also one of my favorite things to do after dark! 
• Head for the hills and take a 40-minute drive up to Chateau Cana for sunset wine tasting. This beautiful family-owned winery tucked high up in the Ras El Harf village was voted one of the top 50 wineries in the entire world, and is absolutely gorgeous at dusk!

Places to Stay in Beirut:

• The Grand Meshmosh Hotel (this is where I stayed!). Rooms are simple, the food is divine, and there’s an eclectic allure here that attracts everything from backpackers, just-passing-through travelers, to bohemian intellectuals alike. This hotel was all but destroyed since the Beirut Blast and painstakingly rebuilt – but you would never know from spending time relaxing in the outdoor terrace. The vibe continues to be unshakably relaxed, cool, and comfortable for anyone that walks in the door. 
• Hotel Albergo  
• Dar Al Achrafieh

Search hotels in Beirut on Booking.com .

Search guest houses in Beirut on L’Hôte Libanais .

How Much Time to Spend in Beirut:

2-3 days minimum.

I recommend spending at least 2-3 days at the beginning or end of your trip in this city. This will be enough time to get a taste of Beirut and explore some of its most famous sights. But, I suggest spending more time here if you have it!

One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Byblos (also known as Jbeil) is a must for any travelers looking for the very best places to visit in Lebanon. Here, you’ll be able to walk on more than 6,000 years of civilization’s history, experience some of the most important ancient societies in Lebanon, and soak up the undeniable charms of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Byblos was easily one of my favorite places to visit in Lebanon!

Things to Do in Byblos:

• Take a walking tour of the Byblos Castle (also known as the Byblos Citadel), a crusader castle dating back to the 12th century. The crusaders actually reused stones from ancient Roman structures in order to build their citadel, and you’ll notice some irregularity in the structure of the buildings as you wander around
• Wander the Byblos souks  
• Visit one of Byblos’ beaches or beachfront bars, like Ocean Blue Resort Beach Bar , Ocean Blue , Jungle Beach , or Kina Handcrafted Bar
• Explore both old town and new town Byblos 
• Stop into the Byblos fossil museum – Memory of Time – to see the fossil collections of more than 1,200 aquatic species dating back up to 100 million years (crazy, I know!)

Places to Stay in Byblos:

• Beit Faris wa Lucia , where I stayed, is located within the old walled streets of Byblos. The owner was born in this very same house and has been inviting people to stay with her all her life, and decided in 2019 to formally turn her historic home into a guest house. Don’t miss out on homemade breakfasts eaten al fresco in the citrus garden!

Search hotels in Byblos on Booking.com .

Search guest houses in Byblos on L’Hôte Libanais .

How Much Time to Spend in Byblos:

Byblos isn’t a difficult day trip from Beirut. In fact, it’s less than an hour’s drive up the coastal highway. But there’s something about waking up in the historic city walls of this city that makes you feel as if you are being transported back in time, and that’s well worth an overnight stay to experience it for yourself.

Not far from Beirut, tucked up into the verdant green hillside, Chouf is a fascinating region of palaces, villages, and one of the largest concentrations of cedar trees in the country. Here, you’ll also find the largest population of Druze (a religious group) in all of Lebanon. 

Chouf was initially on my radar because there are some charming guest houses in the area with beautiful scenery for a natural retreat. What I didn’t expect was to be blown away by the food, people, and magnificent palaces that call Chouf home. Seriously, you wouldn’t believe Lebanon looks like this until you’ve witnessed it for yourself!

Things to Do in Chouf:

• Visit the village of Deir Al Qamar
• Go to the Moussa Castle , an impressive structure built by a man – Moussa Abdel Karim Al-Maamari – who fulfilled his childhood dream of one day owning his very own castle
• Explore the Beiteddine Palace , which was built in the late 1700s / early 1800s and has since been restored. You can wander the grounds and visit the museums onsite.
• Stop by the Shallalat Nabeh Merched , a restaurant located in a cave with waterfalls. I’ve heard the food is just alright, but the ambiance is well worth stopping to see
• Visit the beautiful Moukhtara Palace, the stronghold of the Druze which was built by the Jumblatt family in the 18th century
• See the cedars at the Chouf Cedar Reserve

Places to Stay in Chouf:

Search hotels in Chouf on Booking.com .

Search guest houses in Chouf on L’Hôte Libanais .

How Much Time to Spend in Chouf:

1-2 days. 

Chouf is an easy day trip from Beirut. But if you have the chance to experience a guest house here, then you should absolutely do just that.

4. Batroun and Anfeh

Another historic, coastal city, Batroun is a very popular destination for both visitors and locals alike – especially in the summer! I spent a very short amount of time in Batroun. But, my impression of this city is that it’s very cute, very chic, and very much a scene.

Steeped in centuries of significance dating back to the Phoenician times, Batroun juxtaposes relics and ruins of the past with beachside bars, restaurants, and cafes.

Just up the road from Batroun, you’ll also find Anfeh, a local summer hotspot that’s also known as “little Greece” thanks to its white and blue beachside buildings. It was also known as Lebanon’s capital of salt. I came here at sunset specifically to watch the sun set over the old salt marshes, which was a whole new level of breathtaking.

Things to Do in Batroun:

• Relax on the beach, or have drinks seaside at one of Batroun’s cute coastal restaurants, like Pierre & Friends
• Admire the nearby Mseilha Fort , which you cannot miss when driving along the coastal road heading north from Beirut. This fort dates back to the 17th century and was erected to guard the important route between Beirut and Tripoli
• Sample the citrus native to Batroun with a stop at the famous Hilmi’s House of Lemonade , whose legacy dates back to the 19th century!
• Appreciate Lebanon’s craft beer and distilling scene by visiting Colonel Beer which has a great view of the water. You can also rent bicycles and scooters from here, too, if you’re looking for an active adventure before drinks!
• Explore Batroun’s nightlife scene for a switch-up from Beirut that’s just as lively 
• Head up to Anfeh, just 15 minutes away from Batroun, to see the old salt marshes of Lebanon. Anfeh is a popular local destination for spending the summer. I recommend going near sunset to see the sun reflect across the salt pans

Places to Stay in Batroun:

• San Stephano Resort
• L’Auberge de la Mer  
• Beit Al Batroun

Search hotels in Batroun on Booking.com .

Search guest houses in Batroun on L’Hôte Libanais .

How Much Time to Spend in Batroun:

Half a day to 1 day. 

Batroun is an easy day trip, or half-day trip, either from Beirut or on your way to other places to visit in Lebanon. It’s about an hour from Beirut and just shy of 30 minutes south of Tripoli.

A coastal town just 20 minutes up the road from Beirut, the once-sleepy fishing village of Jounieh is a leisure destination in its own right. With a lively party scene and high rises that dot the rugged hillside overlooking Jounieh Bay, this town is a popular stop for visitors heading up to Byblos.

If you have some extra time to spare I recommend spending at least a morning here!

Things to Do in Jounieh:

• Visit the expansive, endlessly impressive Jeita Grotto – the longest limestone cave system in the entire Middle East 
• Take the Téléferique up the mountain to Our Lady of Harissa, the towering Virgin Mary statue that can be seen watching over the city below 
• Go paragliding in one of the best paragliding spots in the entire world with Paragliding Club Thermique (my first time paragliding was here!) 
• Consider a visit to the Casino du Liban , Lebanon’s only casino. Whether or not you like to gamble, the casino often hosts events and is home to a handful of onsite bars and restaurants, including La Martingale Restaurant which supposedly boasts one of the best views in the entire country

Places to Stay in Jounieh:

• Beit Wadih (where I stayed!). This was one of the most peaceful stays during my entire trip. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but the service is great, the grounds are gorgeous, and the breakfasts are delicious.  
• BURJ on BAY  
• Bay Lodge Boutique
• Veer Boutique Hotel

Search hotels in Jounieh on Booking.com .

How Much Time to Spend in Jounieh:

Jounieh is an easy day trip, or half-day trip, either from Beirut or on your way to Byblos.

Tripoli is a dizzying (some might say chaotic), magnificent city. It’s a sensory overload of winding streets, lively souks, historic architecture, and incredible food. With my TourLeb guides, we wandered the souks in search of old hammams, visited old churches late into the evening, took a boat ride out to see Tripoli’s islands at sunset, and ate more sweets than I could ever count. 

No visit to Tripoli would be complete without also exploring the Al Mina fisherman’s village adjacent to Tripoli. While Tripoli’s historic sprawl can be overwhelming, Al Mina offers a relaxed neighborhood to wander along the sea.

Things to Do in Tripoli:

• Visit the Mansouri Great Mosque and the Taynal Mosque (be sure to bring a headscarf, and cover your shoulders and knees!) 
• Wander the marvelous Tripoli souks . Unlike some other cities where the souks have been modernized, Tripoli’s souks with its passageways and alleys are steeped in centuries of tradition. From food, to fabric, to furniture, to jewelry and so much in between, you’ll find literally everything here
• Within the winding souks, look out for abandoned hammams (bath houses), many of which you can simply enter and wander around. One hammam – Hammam al-Abed – is still open for men but invites all to come inside and have a look at the lounge
• Buy some natural Tripolitan soap – a product this city was once famed for making and which many factories continue to keep alive using traditional methods to this day. One amazing soap factory in Tripoli is Masbanat Awaida Soap , which makes all their soaps by hand onsite
• Eat sweets! Tripoli is known as the city of sweets, and you’ll find all kinds of delicacies here. Try ossmaliyeh, owaymet, halawet el-jeben, and ka’ak stuffed with knafeh. I recommend stopping at a pastry shop like Mackieh Sweets so you can sample them all
• For those without a sweet tooth, Tripoli is also famous for its lahme baajin, essentially a meat pizza topped with pomegranate molasses
• Spend your evening at the fisherman’s village of Al Mina Port , which dates back to the Phoenician era. Here, you can dine at amazing seafood-centric restaurants, enjoy an alcoholic drink (which you largely won’t be able to find in Tripoli’s historic city center), and smoke shisha on the streets as the locals do

Places to Stay in Tripoli:

• Via Mina Hotel
• Le Chateau des Oliviers

Search hotels in Tripoli on Booking.com .

How Much Time to Spend in Tripoli:

While I managed to visit Tripoli in just one day, I really wish I was able to stay a bit longer. If you have the time, I recommend it as the experience is unlike anything else!

Also known as Sidon or Sayida, this small city is renowned for its glass blowing. Like Tripoli, Saida is also a more conservative Muslim city. It’s well worth a visit for its delicious food and sights, including the famous Saida Sea Castle.

Here, I had some of the most delicious ka’ak stuffed with knafeh, as well as my very first falafel pita in Lebanon. Saida is for foodies as much as any other part of Lebanon already mentioned on this list, so come hungry! 

I’d recommend not planning a visit to Saida on Friday if you can help it, as Friday is the start of prayer and the Lebanese weekend, and many things in the city close by 12 pm.

Things to Do in Saida:

• Visit the Saida Sea Castle , one of the most famous and recognizable monuments in Lebanon 
• Explore the Debbane Palace , an Arab-Ottoman grand mansion-turned-museum that offers a taste of what life for an affluent family might have been like in the 1900s. If you’re able to access the roof during your visit, climb up the stairs for a beautiful view of the city! 
• Stop at the Khan Sacy Hammam , as well as the Hammam Al Jadeed . The latter hammam has recently been transformed into an art exhibition called Revival which features dozens of paintings imagining the hammam in all its glory centuries ago
• See the old Jewish Quarter, known as Haret al-Quds. Saida was home to a sizable Jewish population until the 70s, and the remnants of that society can still be seen today, much of which has been reinhabited by Palestinian refugees. Most notably, I visited the home of Jihad Al-Mohammed, who built his residence within an abandoned Synagogue

Places to Stay in Saida:

I didn’t find many places to stay in Saida, so I recommend spending the night in Tyre (see below) if you’re planning to stay in southern Lebanon overnight! 

Search hotels in Saida on Booking.com .

Search guest houses in Saida on L’Hôte Libanais .

How Much Time to Spend in Saida:

Saida is an easy day trip combined with Tyre, spending half a day in both places. If you want to spend more time in southern Lebanon, spend the night in Tyre and wake up near the biggest strand of public beach in the entire country!

By this point, you might be thinking to yourself, another historic seaside town? And you’d be right! Sitting just 40 minutes south of Saida, Tyre was a massively prosperous Phoenecian city that once ruled the seas. Why? Because of the color purple. Not the movie, the actual color, which was discovered here by extracting the dye from mollusk shells. Suffice it to say, it became a hugely popular export that brought great wealth to Tyre. 

Here, you’ll find fantastic Roman ruins a stone’s throw from the longest strand of public beach in the entire country. While Lebanese people generally prefer spending their vacations traveling out of the country, in the past couple years (thanks to the pandemic), exploration of their own country boomed – and Tyre is one of the hottest local spots there is.

Things to Do in Tyre:

• Spend the day at Tyre’s public beach, which is the longest strand of public beach access in the entire country. Or, for something more upscale, you can head to a beachfront hotel like Dar Alma and enjoy their private beach or restaurant
• Visit Tyre Roman ruins , including the Tyre Necropolis and the Tyre World Heritage Site. They’re located just 5 minutes from each other so you can see both! 

Places to Stay in Tyre:

Search hotels in Tyre on Booking.com .

Search guest houses in Tyre on L’Hôte Libanais .

How Much Time to Spend in Tyre:

Half a day to 2+ days. 

You can see the highlights of Tyre in a half day trip combined with Saida. But, if you have more time and want to enjoy Lebanon at a slower pace, Tyre is the place to do it. A few days soaking up the Mediterranean sun, or strolling by seaside restaurants and boutiques, sounds pretty great, doesn’t it?

9. Qadisha Valley, Bcharre, and Ehden

Now that we’ve explored Lebanon’s coast from north to south, let’s talk about Lebanon’s more mountainous regions, like the Qadisha Valley. In just under 2 hours from the sea level sunshine of Beirut, you’ll find yourself deep in the Mount Lebanon mountain range. Here, some of the most stunning scenery unfolds around you, from steep cliffs speckled with pine and oak, to monasteries tucked precariously into the surrounding mountains. It’s one of the best road trips by far, and one of the most spectacular places to visit in Lebanon. 

Why? Well, besides the scenery, the Qadisha Valley is famous for being the site of one of the earliest Christian monastic settlements in the entire world. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Qadisha Valley is poignant isolation, making you feel for a moment what life might be like for the monks that have inhabited these mountains for centuries. Road trip through the valley from monastery to monastery, or hike one of the many trails linking the sites for a substantial change of pace from the lively Lebanese coast. And, be sure to check out some of the valley’s beautiful mountain towns, like Bcharre and Ehden. 

Depending on the time of year, the Qadisha Valley can get super chilly! Bring long pants and a jacket, or coat, just in case.

Things to Do in the Qadisha Valley:

• Visit the Monastery of San Antonio Qozhaya , which is carved grandly onto the side of a rock face. Here, you’ll be able to see cave facades that date back as early as the 1st century BC. Be sure to step inside the cave itself! 
• Visit the Saint Elisha Monastery (also known as the Deir Qannoubine Monastery), a remote setting that served as a retreat for monks and hermits for hundreds of years
• Venture up to the Cedars of God , a UNESCO site in its own right and home to one of the last large expanses of Lebanese cedar that once covered the entire country. If you haven’t seen it yet, the cedar is the national tree of Lebanon and can be seen on the Lebanese flag
• Admire the picturesque mountain town of Bcharre, with its red-roofed houses contrasted against the valley below. If you visit in the winter, Bcharre turns into a ski town! 
• Stroll through the nearby mountain town Ehden. For dinner, seek out nearby Jalset Al Sayad where you’ll find some of the most delicious Lebanese food I had my entire visit, no joke!

Places to Stay in the Qadisha Valley:

• Karaz Ehden (this is where I stayed!). A beautiful guest house renovated within a 200 year-old building that will make any design snobs swoon. My jaw dropped when I walked in the door and saw the two-story loft rooms and cozy central living room. The host, Saiid, has an impeccable eye for detail! 
• MIST Hotel & Spa

Search hotels in Ehden on Booking.com using this link , and in Bcharre using this link .

How Much Time to Spend in the Qadisha Valley:

1 – 2 days. 

I highly recommend staying overnight. Or, you can drive through the Qadisha in 1 day with some stops on the way to Bekaa Valley. Otherwise, it’ll be a very long and exhausting day on the road. Plus – it’s gorgeous here, so why wouldn’t you?

10. Baaklbek and the Bekaa Valley

Tucked away in the far east of Lebanon, between the Mount Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon mountain ranges, the Bekaa Valley is one of the most epic places to visit in Lebanon. Yes, it is quite close to the border with Syria, and yes, it’s generally quite safe to go on your own. However, my experience with a guide was well worth it and I personally recommend visiting with a guide or a tour, at least on your first trip to Lebanon. 

Baalbek has a long and layered history, having been occupied by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans over the centuries. Some of the most impressive Roman ruins from the entire Roman Empire period can be found here.

Things to Do in the Bekaa Valley:

• Visit the Baalbek Roman ruins , including the mind-blowing Temple of Bacchus and Temple of Jupiter
• Stop at Hajjar al-Hibla , a quarry that displays one of the massive cut stones that make up the base of the temples at the ruins. How Romans actually managed to move rocks this size, I’ll never comprehend
• Go wine tasting at family-owned Chateau Rayak , where owner Eilas Maalouf will not only show you his wines (some of which are on tap!), porto, and arak, but happily drink them with you, too!

Places to Stay in the Bekaa Valley:

Search hotels in Baalbek on Booking.com using this link , and in the Bekaa Valley using this link .

Search guest houses in the Bekaa Valley on L’Hôte Libanais .

How Much Time to Spend in the Bekaa Valley:

An easy day trip to the Bekaa Valley can be done by spending the night in the Qadisha Valley beforehand, so you’re just a 2-hour drive from the ruins. Otherwise, spend the night in the Bekaa Valley before driving back to the coast.

There you have it! These are some of the best places to visit in Lebanon for an unforgettable trip. Which are you planning to visit? Tell me below!

Read This Next:

• Everything You Need to Know Before Traveling in Lebanon

Top Woman-Owned Travel Companies That Should Be on Your Radar

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Hey there! I’m Rachel, a travel writer and a full-time advertising / marketing expert. In 2019, I traveled more than 25 times while working 9 to 5, and since then I’ve committed myself to living a more adventurous life, even if it means bringing my laptop along for the ride. Are you hungry to travel more, but overwhelmed with how to juggle work and play? You’ve come to the right place!

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How to plan your dream vacation

Sometimes you crave a vacation — but actually taking one feels out of reach. Maybe you're struggling to find the time or save up the money. Or maybe you just can't seem to launch those plans out of the group chat. Overcome that planning inertia and take the big trip of your dreams. Here's where to start your search, organize your logistics and enjoy yourself.

MARIELLE SEGARRA, HOST:

You're listening to LIFE KIT...

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)

SEGARRA: ...From NPR.

Hey, everybody. It's Marielle. You remember the early part of the pandemic when the days of isolation stretched into months? At night, I would lay on the floor of my apartment with my eyes closed and listen to guided meditations, to try to take myself to a happier place. One time the prompt was something like, picture yourself doing something that brings you great joy. The first thing that popped into my head was an image of me wandering the cobblestone streets of some small European village, probably in France. The sun was shining, and every step I took was a feast for the eyes. Medieval houses, colorful flowers resting in vases on outdoor tables, patisseries with gorgeous pastries in the window, just waiting to be eaten.

I didn't realize until that moment just how much I missed traveling and how badly I wanted to look at something outside of my four walls or the blocks of my neighborhood. The next year, I took a three-week trip to the U.K. and France, and I ate those pastries and wandered until my feet hurt and filled a hole that had been growing inside of me.

Big trips can do that. Lale Arikoglu knows what I'm talking about. She's the articles director at Conde Nast Traveler.

LALE ARIKOGLU: On a really basic level, I think it's just being able to have a break from the crush of regular life, whether that's work or childcare or school, wherever it may be, you know, the opportunity to just take yourself out of your routine and be somewhere else and get to immerse yourself in that place to me is, like, the main draw of it.

SEGARRA: Now, when we talk about a big trip, that could mean different things depending on your travel style and your budget. You know, it might be a long road trip or an extended stay at a cottage in the woods or a multi-city tour on another continent. But it's typically something you save up for and plan months in advance. Lale has a big trip coming up. She's going to Peru.

ARIKOGLU: I've been waiting to do it for a long time. The reason to go there is for a friend's wedding. And now I'm building a trip around it, and it's going to be about ten days long with multi-stops, you know, having to choose multiple places to stay. And logistically, you know, it's actually taking some thought and some planning. One of the things that we're going to do when we're there is hike Machu Picchu. There's a group of us going. And Machu Picchu - it's a dream to see and experience.

SEGARRA: Now, it's easy to get bogged down in trip planning. And it might stop you from booking the thing entirely, but Lale says, do it. It's worth it.

On this episode of LIFE KIT, Lale shares her best tips on planning the big trip of your dreams. We'll talk about where to start your search, what logistical questions you should ask yourself and how to actually relax and enjoy yourself once you're there.

SEGARRA: Let's say I do want to take a big trip, right? I'm feeling that itch to travel, but...

ARIKOGLU: Right.

SEGARRA: ...I don't have a destination in mind yet or a duration. I'm really starting from scratch. Where does the planning start?

ARIKOGLU: When you start the planning, you've really got to think what you want to get out of the trip. You know, If you really just want to decompress and relax and rest, then you probably don't want to do some like multi-stop European city trip, right? You probably don't want to hike Machu Picchu. Perhaps it is that you're incredibly bored of your surroundings, and you need adventure and you need excitement. And therefore, you're going to be thinking of some really different destinations. It might be that you're traveling alone for the first time. You've decided to do a solo trip. You know, where is a place that might feel comfortable for you as a solo traveler, but still feels like it's taking you out of your comfort zone? So I think it's sitting with yourself and thinking, OK, what is, like, the goal here? That's takeaway one. Ask yourself what do you want to get from this? Set the mission of your trip.

It feels like another really important detail at the beginning is budget, right? Like, how much money do you realistically want to spend on this trip or can you afford to spend?

ARIKOGLU: And, you know, that's going to look different for everyone. If we're talking big trips, rarely are they spontaneous, right? You're planning for a long time. So that also allows you to save and finance for it. No, there's lots of great savings apps that can just, you know, that take a little bit of money out of your paycheck every few weeks, and you can kind of start, like, a travel fund that way. I think that's quite a nice way to do it. But I think, you know, you can do a big trip on a budget. It doesn't have to be, I think, a lavish, international trip. I mean, you know, we're going into spring and summer, there are so many incredible national parks to see, there are so many amazing, very diverse, different cities. There's, like, so much on your doorstep, so I think you can really argue, you don't have to cross continents to have a big trip. And so if that feels a more affordable way to get away for a couple of weeks, then, you know, look in your backyard.

SEGARRA: Right. I wonder, too, like, part of budget, besides money, is also time. Like, how much vacation time do you have? Do you have any tips for people who don't have that much vacation time?

ARIKOGLU: So I think if you look at the calendar and you look at where the holiday weekends fall, There are some tricks to being able to kind of, like, turn your limited number of vacation days into - kind of you can stretch it out if you bookend it with a holiday weekend or something like that. But on the flip side, it's also most expensive time to travel, right? There is an argument for choosing shoulder season, so that's not traveling to a destination when it's at its peak. And this is great for your own personal experience, but it's also in terms of helping that destination deal with overtourism, overcrowding. If we're talking about Europe, for example, the summers are getting hotter. So avoiding those really intense, hot, summer seasons can actually be really advantageous for your own travel plans.

SEGARRA: Yeah. That seems like maybe the next thing to consider as you're planning a big trip before you start looking at destinations is what time of year are you looking to travel?

ARIKOGLU: Definitely. And that's more of a luxury for some people because If you're having to navigate school holidays, then you're a little bit more limited. But again, it's sort of when you're thinking about carving out those goals and what you want to get out of the trip. Maybe it's the seasonality that's really important. Maybe it's all you want is hot weather and a beach. You know, if you're planning some summer travel, you could totally flip things on its head and go experience winter somewhere. I went to Patagonia when it was entering into their fall in Chile, and it was a really magnificent time to be there, and it was when New York City was going into spring. It felt like upside-down land to be choosing to do that, and it was so wonderful. It was great.

SEGARRA: Yeah. I think there's a lot of room for creativity there. And also, as you said, like, it opens up more possibilities if you consider going places during the shoulder season.

ARIKOGLU: And you get to be in a place and actually be in the place with the people who live there. One thing in August, if you go to Europe, everyone who lives there has, you know, gone off somewhere else on vacation to escape the heat and the tourists, and so, you know, you're in Rome with just all the other tourists and none of the Romans.

SEGARRA: All right, so takeaway two. Before you land on a destination, think about your constraints. What time of year do you plan to travel? For how long? What budget are you working with? If you're short on time, you can make use of holidays or pick a destination closer to home. If you're short on money, think creatively. You know, maybe you do a road trip through some parks or cities nearby.

SEGARRA: It seems like another thing to consider here is, how much do you like crowds? Because for me, it kind of ruins a trip or an experience if everywhere I go is super crowded. I get very overwhelmed by that and overstimulated.

ARIKOGLU: And it's also, you know, who are the crowds? Because there's been times when I've gone somewhere and I've gone and done the same bucket list site that everyone else is, and you're sort of standing there and you're thinking, What am I actually here for? Well, what is the purpose of this? What am I getting out of it? What am I giving to this destination other than just being another member of the crowd?

SEGARRA: Yeah. I think that's an important question, right? 'Cause, like, we have been talking about what are you looking to get out of it, for the most part. But there's another side to this - right? - and it's what am I giving? And also, what am I taking? Like, am I taking too much from this place?

ARIKOGLU: I think about that a lot. When you're planning, be really thoughtful about where you're spending your money. When you're choosing a hotel, is it a hotel that is locally owned? What restaurants are you booking? Where are you shopping? Where are you buying your souvenirs? You know, I think there's lots of ways to be really thoughtful about, you know, how you spend your money, and that can go into your budgeting, as well.

SEGARRA: I know there are certain places that at a certain time, at least, they said, please, tourists, like, please stop coming or stop coming during this time.

ARIKOGLU: Yeah. When a destination says that, I mean, it's something to be taken so seriously because they're usually destinations that have an infrastructure or an economy that really relies on tourism. So things have to have gotten pretty bad for a destination to say, take a beat, not right now, and listen to that, and, you know, the place will be better for it when you do go see it.

SEGARRA: I picture it as if you were, like, going to - going over, like, a friend's house uninvited, or, like, if they were like, please, today's not good. Like, our whole family's sick, like, we're all throwing up, and then you were still banging on the door, like, hey, what are you doing? Can I come stay over?

ARIKOGLU: I think that is a perfect analogy. Perfect. And no one wants to be that person.

SEGARRA: No.

ARIKOGLU: I'd hate to be that person.

SEGARRA: That'd be weird behavior.

ARIKOGLU: Yeah.

SEGARRA: Takeaway three, travel responsibly. Research the places you're interested in, and make sure they want tourists at the time you're looking to visit. When you're booking, consider putting your money toward the local economy rather than international chains. Also, learn about whatever destination you choose. Be open to the cultural practices and languages there. And be a respectful visitor.

Anything else that people would want to figure out before they start narrowing down or looking at destinations?

ARIKOGLU: I think it's also thinking about who you want to travel with. Someone can be your best friend, but they can be your worst roommate. I think travel's kind of the same, so kind of finding someone to travel with or a group of people to travel with who you're aligned with in the planning stage, rather than when you get there and then you suddenly discover you all want to do different things. So I think communicating right off the back what you all want out of the trip and what you're excited about and also being really honest with each other about finances.

If you're on a group trip, I mean, it's like splitting the bill, but a thousand times worse. And so I think if you can kind of, like, set some parameters at the start and be really honest about what you feel comfortable spending money on because inevitably, there is going to be some people on the trip who want to spend more money on some things than others.

SEGARRA: Yeah. And it seems like that conversation, there should be some form of that before you book anything.

ARIKOGLU: Yes, 100%. And, you know, I think even if you don't feel comfortable doing it, speaking up if something just feels too expensive.

SEGARRA: All right. So takeaway four, figure out who you're traveling with. You might prefer to travel alone, or if you're going with friends, partners, or family, just make sure you're on the same page about what you want from the trip - the pace, the activities and how much money you can spend.

SEGARRA: OK. So it sounds like we've given people a lot of things to consider before they choose a destination. Once they've done this soul searching, how can they start to find destinations that fit those desires and limitations?

ARIKOGLU: For me, part of the fun of travel planning is doing the research, whether it is a trusted travel publication or reading some books you love or going on to - you know, there's, like, a ton of just, like, online communities of people who love swapping travel tips and actually, I think, can be really helpful.

SEGARRA: Yeah. I think it can be helpful maybe to in the brainstorming stage to just, like, not go in too deep but just make a list of places that seem exciting to you and that might fit your parameters. Like, I have a Google Doc, and it's just, like, places that I would be really excited to go.

SEGARRA: When you are considering a destination, how helpful is social media - is - like, seeing where your friends are going or where influencers are going? Is it a good idea to follow those trends?

ARIKOGLU: I think it can be useful in picking things you want to do once you're there, particularly if it's, like, based around, like, big events or openings. You know, we have our best places to go list that runs every year. It could be, like, new train routes, new hiking routes, new museums that have opened, things that are happening in destinations centered around an anniversary. So, you know, kind of consulting those sorts of lists and rounds up as well can be very helpful. But I think, you know, going back to what we were talking about in terms of over tourism or overcrowding - you know, on social media, you will see people at the same spots time and time again. And they're usually spots where just around the corner, there's also something equally beautiful to see.

SEGARRA: Yeah. Like, I remember when Santorini was really popular. And it's like, whew - like, if you could actually see what was going on behind that photo, like, you would hate being there because it's so - it's just way too many people...

ARIKOGLU: Right. Right.

SEGARRA: ...All lining up to take a picture in - against that beautiful backdrop.

ARIKOGLU: Exactly. And, you know, it's Santorini. It's all beautiful. It's all amazing.

SEGARRA: OK. So takeaway five is to choose a destination. And cast a wide net when you're brainstorming 'cause you never know what's going to catch your eye. Also, Lale says, do your best to think outside of the current travel trends. Though you can use them for inspiration.

So once you've got a destination in mind, how can you start to sketch out the details of the trip? And I guess I should say, how much detail do you really need to figure out?

ARIKOGLU: So I was going to say, don't overschedule yourself, and don't overbook yourself. I think I've been guilty of doing that before, and then you realize that you have no downtime. It might seem like you're being really efficient, but you need a little bit of spontaneity on your trip. Don't overschedule. If there are a few key things you really want to do that you feel you will be crushed if you don't get to do it, then book it. Make sure that's arranged all in advance. So maybe it's finding one thing on each day of your trip. That's what you center your day around and you can frame your itinerary around that, but I wouldn't overschedule.

SEGARRA: Yeah. And then I think when you look at these things potentially sketched out on different days, then you say like, you know, that seems too busy. What's the most important to me here? Like, which of these activities do I want to book ahead?

ARIKOGLU: Right. You know, if you're suddenly realizing - you're like, I am cramming a lot in if I try to go to these three places, then choosing which one to let go.

SEGARRA: Yeah. 'Cause that's always a consideration, too. Like, if you're flying somewhere far, you might think, well, I'm already going to Poland, should I also do Germany?

SEGARRA: There's that impulse, you know? Or I'm going to Poland, so I want to see all of Poland. But that can make for a very frenetic kind of trip.

ARIKOGLU: And you wouldn't tell someone who was visiting America to be like, well, you've come all the way to America, so if you're going to New York, then you also need to go to New Orleans.

SEGARRA: Right, right. Exactly. That's Takeaway 6 - keep your schedule light and malleable. Lally recommends picking only one activity to do for each day of your trip and then building a flexible itinerary around those.

You know, it occurs to me that another element of a big trip when I'm going into them - I know that something's going to go awry during it.

ARIKOGLU: Always (laughter).

SEGARRA: Yeah.

SEGARRA: I remember being in Barcelona when I was in college. I went by myself for, like, a week. And I speak Spanish, but it wasn't fluent at the time. And I just got - I just missed being able to easily say what I wanted to say, and I went into, like, a Wendy's or something because I just wanted something kind of American. And I got some chicken nuggets. I couldn't think how to say nuggets in Spanish. Like, I was like, is that even a word, like, in Spanish, or did they just say nuggets? And I just broke and started speaking in English because I was trying to only speak Spanish. And I was like, I give up. Like, can I get some chicken nuggets, please?

ARIKOGLU: The true American in you comes out screaming at chicken nuggets in a foreign McDonald's.

SEGARRA: Yeah, yeah, give me my nuggies.

ARIKOGLU: (Laughter).

SEGARRA: Yeah, I just - like, sometimes you just need to go roll up into a ball and eat your chicken nuggies and be by yourself for a minute and then come back out, you know?

ARIKOGLU: Yeah. I mean, like, travel so much of the time is sort of, like, infantilizing because you're so powerless. But it's, like, the same in an airport. You're just sort of powerless at a certain extent when things go wrong. And I think my approach to it - to sort of very taxing and challenging air travel schedules, with connections and potential miss flights and lost luggage and all the things that come with that - is to sort of just give myself up to the airport gods, and just as soon as I'm, like, through TSA, just be like, what will be will be. I'll get there eventually and just, like, I'm powerless. And that's been, like, for me, quite liberating. And it also means that I'm not the person screaming at some poor gate agent when things go wrong.

SEGARRA: Yeah, it's a moment of - it's actually an opportunity for mindfulness. Like, I think that could even be helpful going into a big trip, to tell yourself, like, something is going to go wrong. Yeah, just keep that in mind.

ARIKOGLU: Oh, my God, so much of travel is about being tired and hungry.

SEGARRA: We're really selling this.

ARIKOGLU: I know.

SEGARRA: (Laughter).

ARIKOGLU: I'm like, my whole job is to travel. It's great.

SEGARRA: Isn't it terrible? Yeah.

SEGARRA: I try to remind myself, like - what is the point? - like, go back to those goals. What is the point of this? It's to have a good experience, to meet those needs, to give myself what I've been craving.

ARIKOGLU: Exactly. And I don't know. This sounds a little cheesy and a little trite, but anyone who gets to travel is really lucky. Ultimately, it's a real privilege that you get to do it. And it's such a freedom and it's such a special thing.Don't make it stressful.

SEGARRA: That's our final takeaway. Something on your trip is bound to go wrong. So once you're there, sit back and try to surrender. After all, traveling in the first place is a treat.

SEGARRA: OK, jet-setters, time for a recap. First, figure out what you want from this vacation. Decide your budget and time constraints. Commit to traveling ethically. Make sure you're aligned with the people you're traveling with. When you choose a destination, cast a wide net and have fun with the research. Don't overschedule yourself, and once you're there, relax and roll with the punches. For more LIFE KIT, check out our other episodes. We've got one on how to find cheap flights and another on how to pack your suitcase like a pro. You can find those at np.org/lifekit. And if you love LIFE KIT and you just cannot get enough, subscribe to our newsletter at np.org/lifekitnewsletter. Also, we love hearing from you, so if you have episode ideas or feedback you want to share, e-mail us at [email protected].

This episode of LIFE KIT was produced by Margaret Cirino. Our visuals editor is Beck Harlan and our digital editor is Malaka Gharib. Meghan Keane is our supervising editor and Beth Donovan is our executive producer. Our production team also includes Andee Tagle, Clare Marie Schneider and Sylvie Douglis. Engineering support comes from Robert Rodriguez. I'm Marielle Segarra. Thanks for listening.

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Survey: 1 in 3 American travelers plan to go into debt for vacations

Perhaps your summers hold fond memories of strolling along the beach, hiking mountains or trying new foods at a destination hundreds of miles from home. If so, are you planning to keep the travel streak going this year? Would you go into debt for it?

A new Bankrate survey found that only about half (53 percent) of Americans are planning a summer vacation in 2024. Of those who plan to travel this summer, more than 1 in 3 (36 percent) are willing to go into debt to pay for it.

On the other hand, another half (47 percent) of Americans plan to skip their summer vacation this year, citing affordability as the main issue (65 percent).

Some summer travelers plan to take on debt for their vacation.

More than one-third (36 percent) of aspiring summer vacationers said in the survey that they plan to use debt to pay for their travels.

This is par for the course when compared to another March 2024 Bankrate survey that asked Americans whether they’d go into debt to pay for fun this year. In that survey, 27 percent said they’d be willing to go into debt to travel, 14 percent to dine out and 13 percent to attend a live entertainment event this year overall — not just in the summer.

Ted Rossman, Bankrate Senior Industry Analyst, cautions against racking up expensive credit card debt.

“I don’t want to tell people they can’t have any fun, but I do worry about taking on debt for discretionary purchases such as vacations, especially with credit card balances and rates at record highs,” he says.

A majority of summer travelers will pay with a credit card.

Credit cards are summer travelers’ preferred payment method — 62 percent will use a credit card for at least some of their trip expenses. Forty-three percent of summer travelers plan to use a credit card that they pay in full, and 26 percent plan to use a card and carry the balance over multiple billing cycles. Some people are doing both.

Interestingly, a January 2024 Bankrate survey found that, of the 44 percent of credit cardholders carrying debt from month to month, 2 in 3 cardholders try to maximize rewards. If you can pay your balance in full, a travel credit card is a great way to earn while you spend and put rewards toward future trips.

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