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Explore Canada's Best Island on a Road Trip Packed With Incredible Beaches, Adorable Cafes, and Sprawling Parks

Nova Scotia's Cape Breton Island, which T+L readers recently voted the no. 1 island in Canada, has everything you could ask for in a weekend getaway.

Lola Augustine Brown is a Nova Scotia-based freelance writer who covers food, travel, and parenting. Her work has been featured in The Guardian, Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC), National Geographic Traveler , the Toronto Star, Travel + Leisure , and Today's Parent.

Getting to Cape Breton Island is always transportive. It's a scenic 2½-hour drive from where I live in rural Nova Scotia. Coming from urban Halifax — as many do — there are more distinctive changes, as the city streets give way to rolling hills.

No matter your departure point, the most striking shift hits you at the end of the mile-long Canso Causeway, which connects the mainland to Cape Breton. When my view fills with windswept shores and lush forest, that's the moment I know I've arrived.

The classic way to see the best of the island is the Cabot Trail , a two-lane highway that loops around the island's north and connects its wilderness areas and several of its historic towns. Gaelic people from Scotland arrived in the 1700s, and the area's Celtic roots are displayed everywhere. Live music always includes a fiddle and drum, and the road signs appear in both Gaelic and English — except in the Acadian part of the island, where they're in French. Traditional and Indigenous Mi'kmaq fishermen live in small villages, some of which butt up against world-class resorts.

Related : The Top 3 Canadian Islands

But Cape Breton remains a sleepy delight Canadians turn to when they need a break from it all. It still feels rural and remote, though these qualities are mostly preserved in what locals and "come from away" folks offer visitors: quaint cafés and B&Bs, boat tours, and breweries. I discover something new every time, especially in the fall, once the summer rush has abated.

On my latest trip to Cape Breton Island in October 2021, I began with a visit to Big Spruce Brewing , Nova Scotia's first organic craft brewery. In 2009, Jeremy and Melanie White, who had honeymooned on the island years earlier, bought a run-down farm near Bras d'Or Lake — online, sight unseen. They found that hops were a good crop for the land, so why not try making beer? I sampled their Kitchen Party Pale Ale, which paired perfectly with deep-fried pepperoni, a regional pub specialty.

Then I drove northwest, following the winding Cabot Trail, then took Route 19 until I reached Inverness, a historic coal-mining village that, with the opening of the Cabot Links Golf Resort in 2011, has found new purpose as a leisure destination. My target: Inverness Beach, known for its abundance of sea glass, pieces of which I squirreled away in every pocket of my coat.

Overlooking the beach are the luxe private villas at Cabot Cape Breton (doubles from $190), designed by famed Halifax architect Omar Gandhi. This golf resort — which includes Cabot Cliffs , the top course in Canada — is perhaps the most spectacular stay on the island. Across the street, in the relaxed brewpub at Route 19 Brewing (entrées $14–$32), I had the fattest lobster roll I'd ever laid eyes on.

On the way to Chéticamp, the Acadian pride becomes palpable as the historical flag appears with increasing frequency, either painted on buildings or hanging from colorful, weather-beaten houses. I headed straight for the Gypsum Mine , a flooded quarry with stark-white walls surrounded by spruces, birches, and firs. A dip in the frigid lake is worth it, as is the steep climb up the side of the quarry (assisted by ropes attached to the rock face) that ends with gorgeous water views.

Mr. Chicken (entrées $8–$11) in Chéticamp is a local fast-food favorite for chicken poutine, but I was eager to eat at L'abri (entrées $16–$35), which had been booked solid during my previous trip, despite the fact that it had opened just 18 months earlier. L'abri is owned by Basil Doucet and Jaron Felix. After growing tired of their busy careers in Toronto and Halifax, the friends returned to their hometown to start an upscale restaurant riffing on Cape Breton cuisine. I savored the superb Cajun haddock cakes as soft French music lilted through the air.

It was great fuel for my next excursion: hiking Cape Breton's Skyline Trail , a five-mile loop through scrubby terrain that leads to a headland boardwalk. After living in Nova Scotia for almost 15 years, I spotted my first moose, looking majestic as it grazed on shrubs.

Supper that night was at the Rusty Anchor Restaurant (entrées $13–$30), in Pleasant Bay, known for hearty seafood and cheery service. I gorged on Northern Emerald oysters and a juicy bacon cheeseburger. Later I checked in to a spacious geodesic dome just down the road at True North Destinations (doubles from $200), where I found a perfect post-hike reward in my hot tub overlooking the thrashing Atlantic.

From Ingonish Beach, I whipped across the ocean on a whale-watching tour with Keltic Express Zodiac Adventures . I hoped to see Minke whales or the odd humpback, but despite Captain Kinnon MacKinnon's best efforts to track them down, I saw neither. I was too impressed by the three immense sunfish I did spot to be disappointed. Ingonish is one of the Cabot Trail's most rewarding stops, with stylish boutiques along the portion of the road that runs through town. At Groovy Goat Farm & Soap Company , I snuggled both bunnies and baby goats, and at Leather Works by Jolene , I bought a buttery-soft, sunshine-yellow purse.

Lunch was a snow-crab sandwich at Salty Rose's & the Periwinkle Café (sandwiches $11–$22), a gallery-bakery combo owned by cousins Caitlyn Purcell and Sarabeth Drover, who offer decadent egg sandwiches and orange-scented granola topped with edible flowers, alongside art, crafts, and jewelry. I was sleeping upstairs that night, in one of the café's two vintage-chic rooms with 1970s-inspired wallpaper (doubles from $175). After checking in, I took a long walk along Ingonish Beach, a strip of soft sand edged by piles of pink and gray stones, and basked in views of the historic Keltic Lodge (doubles from $260) set on the cliffs above, where I later ordered a Dark & Stormy in the elegant Highland Sitting Room .

I drove to Cape Smokey Provincial Park to walk to the cliff tops and get one more look at the highlands before heading home. On my way out of town, I stopped at the Wreck Cove General Store for a final lobster roll — the best in all of Cape Breton, islanders say. Co-owner Jenn Partland credits the shop's 40-year-old recipe: a no-nonsense mix of knuckle and claw meat, Miracle Whip, salt, and pepper.

As I took my last bite, I felt a deep sense of appreciation settle in. There's something immensely satisfying about places that know how to keep things simple and unfussy. And that's exactly what Cape Breton does best.

A version of this story first appeared in the October 2021 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline A Natural Course.

Nomadic Matt's Travel Site

Travel Better, Cheaper, Longer

Nova Scotia Travel Guide

Last Updated: November 10, 2023

That welcoming atmosphere — combined with over 100 beaches, picturesque lighthouses, fresh seafood, and endless rugged coastline — makes visiting Nova Scotia an exciting (and underrated) destination in Eastern Canada.

Outside the capital city of Halifax, Nova Scotia is dotted with tiny fishing villages and coastal towns. Drive further north, and you’ll hit scenic Cape Breton Island which comes alive with vivid fall foliage each year along its Cabot Trail. In short, Nova Scotia is a province perfect for road trips.

Another bonus: Nova Scotia doesn’t see nearly as many tourists as the country’s larger cities, making it a somewhat off-the-beaten-trail destination that’s much more affordable than many of the more popular cities in Canada.

This travel guide to Nova Scotia can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your visit to this beautiful east coast province!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Nova Scotia

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Nova Scotia

1. Hike the Skyline Trail

The Skyline Trail is easily the most popular hike in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It stretches 6.5 kilometers (4 miles) through thick forest and then along the coast to reach a viewing platform overlooking the ocean. It’s a breathtaking walk on which you might even encounter moose. The hike is suitable for all levels and takes between 1.5-3 hours. Make sure to bring your own water, good shoes, and clothing layers as the weather can change quickly. The most popular time to visit is July, August, and September but many people come to see the autumn leaves change in October. Park admission is 8.50 CAD.

2. Tour the Alexander Keith’s Brewery

Alexander Keith is a legend in Nova Scotia. He opened his brewery in 1820, became mayor of Halifax, and was so wildly popular that Halifax throws a massive birthday party for him on the waterfront every October. Today, the 200-year-old brewery is one of the oldest in North America. Take a tour of the Halifax brewery to learn more and sample some of the limited edition beers at “Stag’s Head” pub at the end of the tour. Tours are 29.95 CAD.

3. Hang out in Halifax

Halifax is Nova Scotia’s cool capital city. It’s home to half a dozen universities so it has a lively nightlife, a thriving music scene, and countless trendy restaurants and craft breweries. Stroll the waterfront boardwalk, grab a lobster roll, and spend the evening at a local pub. Take the ferry over to Dartmouth across the harbor, known as ‘Halifax’s Brooklyn’ and check out the live music at New Scotland Brewing Company. The city has a youthful, arty vibe and is worth visiting for a couple of days.

4. Visit Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse

There are some 170 lighthouses in Nova Scotia, but Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse is the most famous. Once you see it, you’ll understand why it’s one of the most photographed lighthouses in the world. It’s a quintessential red-topped lighthouse standing on a rocky shore overlooking the Atlantic. Walk around and enjoy the ocean views and snap some photos. Beware: rogue waves are common, even on calm days. It’s possible to reach the lighthouse via bus and taxi but it is much easier by car.

5. Drive the Cabot Trail

Other things to see and do in nova scotia, 1. go tidal bore rafting in shubenacadie.

The Shubenacadie River’s rapids in the Bay of Fundy are powered by the highest tides in the world. One minute you’re floating down a peaceful river keeping an eye out for bald eagles and other wildlife and the next minute the river turns into a raging, foaming mass of rapids. When the tide changes twice a day, the tidal bore temporarily reverses the flow of the river, resulting in this wild river ride. A four-hour tour includes the guided rafting excursion, safety flotation gear, extra mud sliding on request (yes!), and post-rafting showers for when you need to clean up. Make sure to bring an extra clean change of clothes as well as a towel. A four-hour rafting trip starts at 95 CAD.

2. Go whale watching

In the summer and fall, 12 species of whales visit the waters around Nova Scotia, including pilot whales, minke whales, giant humpbacks, and the endangered North Atlantic right whale. There are tons of whale-watching tours to choose from in the area, with most operating outside of Halifax. Mariner Cruises takes you out for a 2.5-hour boating tour for 50 CAD departing from Westport on Brier Island, while larger groups like Lunenburg Whale Watching Tours start at 70 CAD.

3. Enjoy summer on the water

Summer is short in Nova Scotia, so when the weather is nice and the sun comes out, Nova Scotians hit the water to go sailing, kayaking, paddle boarding, and canoeing. Surfing is also big here, with Lawrencetown Beach being one of the more popular areas to find the biggest waves. Go swimming at Melmerby Beach or take a kayak around Kejimkujik National Park. Kayak rentals cost around 25 CAD for two hours or 32 CAD for the entire day.

4. Wander the Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens

Spanning 17 acres of greenery, these historical gardens overlook a tidal river valley and include an enormous rose collection (best seen in July) as well as an 18th-century Governor’s Garden and a 19th-century Victorian Garden. You can check out the reconstructed 1671 Acadian House or grab a coffee and light lunch at The Elm Tree Café (seasonal). It’s 16 CAD to visit except November to April when there is only a suggested donation of 5 CAD as the Gardens are not maintained during the winter months.

5. Visit the Alexander Graham Bell Historic Site

This museum in Cape Breton is host to a rich collection of artifacts and documents chronicling the life and career of Bell, the inventor of the telephone. The collection was accumulated by his family during their time here in Baddeck, Cape Breton. In the parlor, you can see Bell’s personal effects, like his favorite jacket, notebook, and walking stick. You can also take a behind-the-scenes “White Glove Tour” of the artifact storage facilities. The site is open May-October and admission is 8.50 CAD (13 CAD for the white glove tour).

6. Explore the Highland Village Museum

Over the centuries, the Canadian Maritimes have been heavily influenced by Scottish and Irish immigration. This outdoor pioneer museum and Gaelic culture experience highlights that history. The 43-acre site overlooking Bras d’Or Lake includes historic buildings like three frame houses, a mill, and a forge. You can take part in a traditional céilidh dance, hear Gaelic singing, and even practice a little of the language yourself. It’s open from June to October and costs 11 CAD.

7. Tour the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

This museum depicts Nova Scotia’s maritime history with exhibits on boatbuilding, World War II convoys, the Titanic, and the Halifax Explosion (a huge disaster that happened in 1917, when two ships carrying ammunition ran into each other and destroyed much of the city). It’s a very comprehensive overview of the region’s history. Admission is 5.15 CAD from November-April and 9.55 CAD from May-October.

8. Visit nearby New Brunswick or Prince Edward Island

These two provinces are close to Nova Scotia and can be visited as day trips (or multi-day trips) if you have your own vehicle. Don’t miss New Brunswick’s Fundy National Park to see the world’s highest tides. In P.E.I., you can soak up some tranquility on the sea (and eat lots of seafood) and visit the Anne of Green Gables house.

9. Explore Lunenburg

Lunenburg is one of the most colorful towns you’ll ever come across. With its narrow streets and colonial 18th- and 19th-century buildings painted in bright hues of pinks, oranges, and greens, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back into the past. There are still tall ships in the harbor and even an operational blacksmith hammering away on the waterfront. The harbor is home to the famous Bluenose II, a replica schooner of the original Bluenose boat that’s featured on the Canadian dime (ten-cent coin). The Bluenose was a famous fishing/racing schooner that went undefeated in her 18-year run and is an iconic part of Canadian history.

10. Tour the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21

If there’s just one museum you visit in Halifax, make it this one . Pier 21 was the immigration point for one million newcomers to Canada between 1928 and 1971. You’ll learn about 400 years of Canadian immigration history through first-person stories, archival photos, artifacts (including trunks and personal treasures), and digital documentation. Exhibits are incredibly interactive and you can even research your family’s pre-1935 immigration records from all ports of entry in North America. Admission is 15.50 CAD.

11. Relax in Kejimkujik National Park

For a taste of Maritime nature, come to this national park to paddle, hike, camp, and relax. Here you’ll find ancient rock carvings (petroglyphs), canoe routes, and coastal wilderness punctuated with sandy beaches and wildlife. To learn more about the Mi’kmaq people who traditionally have called the region home, join a storytelling session, take a guided petroglyph tour, or participate in a canoe-building workshop. Admission to the park is 6.25 CAD.

For more information on other destinations in Canada, check out these guides:

• Calgary Travel Guide
• Montreal Travel Guide
• Ottawa Travel Guide
• Quebec City Travel Guide
• Toronto Travel Guide
• Vancouver Travel Guide
• Vancouver Island Travel Guide

Nova Scotia Travel Costs

Hostel prices – Hostels are virtually non-existent in Nova Scotia. The only exception is Halifax. A bed in a 4-6-person dorm costs 30-35 CAD per night. A private room costs about 78-90 CAD per night. Expect basic amenities like free Wi-Fi and self-catering facilities.

For those traveling with a tent, camping is available around the province starting at 27 CAD per night. This gets you a basic plot without electricity for two people.

Budget hotel prices – Budget hotels start around 105 CAD per night for a place outside of Halifax. Within Halifax, most budget hotels start at around 130 CAD per night. Expect basic amenities like free Wi-Fi, TV, AC, and a coffee/tea maker. Prices are lower during the off-season.

Airbnb is available all around Nova Scotia. Private rooms start around 50-75 CAD per night, though they average double (or even triple) that price. An entire home/apartment costs around 100 CAD per night, though they average closer to 160 CAD (200 CAD in Halifax). Book early to find the best deals.

Food -In Nova Scotia, seafood is king. Be sure to try scallops and oysters, wild blueberries, lobster, and donair (thinly sliced beef in a pita with a sauce that’s similar to kebab; it’s the official food of Halifax). Also, be sure to sample more general Canadian staples like poutine (fries with gravy and cheese curds), beaver tails (fried dough with maple syrup), Canadian bacon, and the oddly tasty ketchup chips.

You can find cheap street food eats like donair for around 7 CAD (go to Johnny K’s), or a small pizza on Halifax’s “Pizza Corner” (an intersection at Blowers Street and Grafton Street full of pizza places) for less than 10 CAD.

A fast food combo meal (think McDonald’s) costs around 12 CAD. A lobster roll at an inexpensive restaurant is about 20 CAD, while lobster poutine is closer to 18 CAD. A bowl of pasta (such as scallop carbonara) costs around 20 CAD. A beer to go with it is about 7 CAD while a glass of wine starts at 9 CAD.

A meal at a higher-end restaurant costs about 40 CAD for a steak or duck entree without a drink, while lobster is closer to 55 CAD.

If you cook for yourself, expect to spend 50-65 CAD on groceries per week. This gets you basic staples like rice, pasta, seasonal produce, and some meat or fish.

Some recommended places to eat include No. 9 Coffee Bar (Lunenburg), The Barn Coffee & Social House (Mahone Bay), The Economy Shoe Shop (Halifax), McKelvie’s Restaurant (Halifax), and The Wooden Monkey (Halifax).

Backpacking Nova Scotia Suggested Budgets

If you’re backpacking Nova Scotia, expect to spend about 70 CAD per day. This assumes you’re staying in a hostel, cooking all your meals, limiting your drinking, taking public transit to get around, and doing mostly free activities like swimming and hiking. If you plan on drinking, add another 10-15 CAD to your daily budget.

On a mid-range budget of 180 CAD per day, you can stay in a private Airbnb, eat out for a few meals, enjoy a couple of drinks, rent a car to get around, and do more paid activities like rent a kayak, visit museums, and day trips to a nearby province.

On a “luxury” budget of 280 CAD per day or more, you can stay in a hotel, rent a car, drink more, eat out for most meals, and do whatever tours and activities you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in CAD.

Nova Scotia Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Nova Scotia can be an affordable destination if you budget properly. It gets more expensive during peak summer season and early fall (everyone comes to see the leaves change color). Here are some of my ways to save money in Nova Scotia during your visit:

• Stay with a local – If you plan ahead, you can usually find a Couchsurfing host in Halifax. This way, you not only have a free place to stay, but you’ll have a local host that can share their insider tips and advice.
• Take a free walking tour – Walking tours are a great way to get familiar with a city and its culture. Halifax Free Walking Tours offers daily informative walking tours in the summer. In the off-season, tours are available by request. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!
• Look for free events – Many of Nova Scotia’s events and festivals are free, including Halifax’s Busker Festival in July. Many towns (like Pictou) also have free summer concerts in public spaces. Check the Tourism Nova Scotia website for more info!
• Go camping – If you want to camp, use novascotia.goingtocamp.com to find available campsites around the province. A two-person site costs around 27-35 CAD.
• Look for the happy hours – The Ultimate Happy Hours website lists all the happy hour drink and food specials around Halifax. They update with new info frequently!
• Get the Museum Pass – If you plan on visiting lots of museums, the Nova Scotia Museum Pass lets you pay one price to access any of the province’s museum sites. It’s valid for 12 months and costs 47 CAD.
• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here is safe to drink so bring a reusable water bottle to save money. LifeStraw makes a reusable bottle with a built-in filter to ensure your water is always safe and clean.

Where to Stay in Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia doesn’t have many hostels and most of the existing ones are in Halifax. Here are my suggested places to stay:

• HI Halifax Heritage House Hostel
• Halifax Backpacker
• Bear on the Lake Guesthouse

How to Get Around Nova Scotia

Public transportation – Halifax is the only major urban center in Nova Scotia and locals depend on a public bus system to get around. Halifax’s public buses can take you all around the inner city and into the suburbs, but the downtown area is very walkable. Fares are 2.75 CAD.

You can take the MetroX bus from the airport to downtown St. John’s for 4.25 CAD (exact change required). There’s also a ferry connecting downtown Halifax to Dartmouth for 2.75 CAD.

Bus – Taking the bus is the best way to get around Nova Scotia if you don’t have a car. Maritime Bus connects most towns in the province. A two-hour trip from Halifax to Lunenburg is 26 CAD, while Halifax to Mahone Bay takes an hour and costs 20.25 CAD. Halifax to Sydney (Cape Breton) costs 72 CAD and takes 6 hours.

To find bus routes and prices, use BusBud .

Taxi – Taxis are not cheap here. Their base rate is 3.75 CAD, and it’s an additional 1.70 CAD per kilometer afterward. Prices add up fast so I’d avoid them if you can.

Ridesharing – Uber is available in Halifax, but the city is easily walkable so I’d skip the ridesharing if you can.

Car Rental – Car rentals can be found for as little as 30 CAD per day for a multi-day rental. If you want to take advantage of all that Nova Scotia has to offer, this is your best option. For the best car rental prices, use Discover Cars .

When to Go to Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia is at its busiest in the summer, with the best weather occurring between June and August. Temperatures often exceed 25°C (78°F). Keep in mind that accommodation prices are higher during this time, but tourist attractions are never overly crowded compared to elsewhere in Canada.

Both early fall and late spring are also excellent times to visit. The weather is warm, you can do all the outdoor exploration you want, and the tourist season isn’t in full swing. This is the best time to drive Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail. The fall colors are particularly pretty.

Winters in Nova Scotia are cold and wet, with temperatures ranging between from -17-0°C (0-32°F) from December to March. If you come during this time, be prepared for all weather types and dress in layers because it is cold. Keep in mind that many businesses shut down for the winter (mostly outside of Halifax). In short, I’d avoid a winter visit unless you’re here for winter sports and activities.

How to Stay Safe in Nova Scotia

You don’t have to worry much about crime in Nova Scotia — it’s incredibly safe to visit. Your greatest risk is petty crime like pickpocketing, but even that is super rare. Overall, I really wouldn’t worry about crime here. Getting hurt hiking is more likely to happen than any crime!

Like much of rural Canada, Nova Scotia has ticks that carry Lyme Disease. If you’re hiking, try to wear long sleeves or pants, or stick to well-trodden trails. Check yourself for ticks after spending time in nature.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here. However, the standard precautions you take anywhere apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, never walk home alone intoxicated, etc.). For more information, check out one of the many solo female travel blogs in the city.

If you’re visiting in the winter, make sure you keep an eye on the weather — especially if you’re driving a car. Road conditions can change rapidly.

Hurricanes can occasionally make it up to the Maritimes, so keep an eye on them if you’re visiting during hurricane season (June-November).

If you experience an emergency, dial 911 for assistance.

When in doubt, always trust your instincts. If a taxi driver seems shady, get out. If your hotel or accommodation is seedier than you thought, go somewhere else. Make copies of your personal documents, including your passport and ID, in case of an emergency.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past.

Nova Scotia Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Nova Scotia Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Canada and continue planning your trip:

Where to Stay in Quebec City: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

Where to Stay in Vancouver: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

Where to Stay in Toronto: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

Canada Road Trip: A One Month Suggested Itinerary

How to Road Trip the Yukon on a Budget

How to See Alberta: A 10-Day Suggested Driving Itinerary

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• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

The ultimate road trip through Nova Scotia, Canada

Nov 15, 2022 • 6 min read

Dean Petty rides his motorcycle along the coast of Nova Scotia © Jack Pearce/Lonely Planet

The beauty of Nova Scotia, Canada, can’t be confined to one town. The best way to experience the postcard-perfect communities that dot its shores is by taking a journey, driving between seaside villages.

Dean Petty takes you on a journey through his Nova Scotia. 

My name is Dean Petty and I feel extremely lucky to call Nova Scotia home. I originally moved here for university 18 years ago, and it immediately felt like I belonged here. After bouncing my way through a surfing career and various odd jobs, I now own a few small businesses including a coffee roastery, a few pizza shops, a cafe and a design company.

I really love my work and couldn’t imagine living anywhere else. Nova Scotia has all my favorite things: great surfing, yummy food, awesome fishing, wonderful humans, beautiful coastline…the list goes on and on. With a little luck, you’ll get to experience the magic, too.  

Why you should visit Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia is a wonderfully authentic corner of the world. It has the perfect balance of stunning natural beauty paired with gritty, amazing people and lots of fun activities . The magical “grounded-ness’” to this place is kind of indescribable. It’s just good Ol’ Nova Scotia. 

To really experience Halifax and explore the more remote corners of the province, I’d suggest carving out seven to 10 days to take it all in. It’s worth traveling slowly here: taking your time, brushing elbows with locals, soaking up the beauty and really enjoying the experience.

You might do best by leaving much of your journey through Nova Scotia unscripted. There are tons of places to pull off and chill out while enjoying a gorgeous view. This is one of those places where the “no-plan plan” might be your best plan.

But if you need some suggestions to get started, here are a few of the spots I took Lonely Planet when they came for a visit. 

Begin your journey in Halifax

Wake up to a beautiful sunrise surf check. Assuming it’s flat, you can head out paddle boarding – or just head into town for breakfast. 

I would humbly recommend my cafe Two if By Sea as the perfect spot for a morning cappuccino and a massively delicious croissant.  My roastery next door, Anchored Coffee, provides the beans for the coffee served inside. We like to keep it in the family. 

After breakfast, grab a bike and head to the Salt Marsh Trail in Cow Bay – a flat and cruisy gravel trail with a lot of nature to enjoy. If you’re down for a mission, a cool one is to ride along the trail from Cow Bay to Lawrencetown. (Just make sure you bring some bug spray for the mosquitos.)

After you’ve burned off all that butter and caffeine, head to Rainbow Haven Beach to rinse off with a quick post-ride dip in the refreshing North Atlantic. 

Dry off: it’s time to eat again. Lunch options are endless, but when I have a friend in town, it’s straight to John’s Lunch in Woodside. Here you’ll find some of the freshest, most down-and-dirty fried seafood in the game. This establishment has no bells and whistles – just delicious, salty, fried stuff from the sea. 

Want a lighter option? Check out my pizza joint Yeah Yeahs Pizza (locations on Ochterloney St in Dartmouth or Barrington St). I recommend grabbing a slice and Caesar salad. While you’re there, draw on a plate and stick it to the wall to leave your mark.

Make sure to check out Pro Skates Halifax, one of the oldest skate shops in North America . This spot is an institution of shred. And If you need a haircut while in town, head out back and see Joel at Oddfellows. The guy does one good cut. 

For dinner, I recommend checking out The Narrows Public House for some good old Nova Scotia comfort food. Along with delicious options like fried pepperoni, potted smoked mackerel and hot chicken and stuffing, The Narrows offers one of the coziest vibes in the city for sitting and enjoying a delicious dinner with pals.   

Move inland to the Annapolis Valley

Now that you’ve gorged on delicious food and enjoyed the coastline, head into the Annapolis Valley for a completely different vibe, landscape and microclimate. As you make the drive, take it slow, as there are plenty of sweet little family-run farmers markets and produce stands to stop at along the way. If antiques are your thing, there are lots of funky shops worth checking out, too. Country Barn Antiques is one of my favorites: its five floors of nostalgia offer knickknacks and random stuff you’ll enjoy rummaging through. 

Fun fact: the Valley has some of the highest tides in the world, which have left behind lots of pristine sloped tidal banks perfect for mud sliding. This is an activity that you won’t see in many other parts of the world – and it’s an absolute blast. I recommend heading to the Avondale Wharf, which has some of the fastest mud in the game as well as some of the nicest locals anywhere. Pro-mud sliding tip: bring some towels that can get dirty and some fresh water to rinse off with. Believe it or not, you will get muddy. 

After a break to clean up and take a rest, enjoy a nice, mellow evening at family-owned vineyard Lightfoot & Wolfville . With an amazing food menu and lots of delicious wines, this is the perfect spot to take in the sunset as you learn and taste why the Annapolis Valley’s microclimate produces such special wines. 

Hop between the beautiful seaside towns of the South Shore

Next, we’re headed out to explore the beautiful seaside towns of the South Shore. When you think of Nova Scotia, an image of a lighthouse probably pops into your head – and the one at Peggy’s Cove might be the prettiest in the province. While it can be a touch touristy, you’ll see why the minute you arrive in this quaint fishing village, complete with big granite slabs sloping into the ocean. It’s out-of-this-world beautiful. (Tip: this is a great place to grab a frozen treat. I recommend crushing one at Central Smith Ice Cream.)

Further down the road south is Lunenburg, a Unesco World Heritage Site. If you think it looks cute enough to be on a postcard, go into any tourist shop and your feelings will be confirmed. Lunenburg epitomizes a vibrant fishing town to a tee. It also has some incredible restaurants. 

The best way to enjoy the town view is from the sea. Hop on a boat with Walter Flower: not only will you get that Instagram-perfect photo of Lunenburg, but you’ll also get to see some cool sea life like whales, seals and the odd shark. 

Once back on shore, go to The Knot Pub for a post-boating bite and pint. This is a watering hole, Maritimes -style, and it’s nothing fancy – only cold pints, simple and delicious food, great people. There’s not much more you can ask for in life. 

For a comfortable and peaceful place to stay, check out Ivy House, a boutique inn in Lunenburg that opened in 2019 with just three suites. The owner (and my pal) Tara describes the decor as “tastefully modern, Scandinavian with a pinch of coastal.” It’s a beautiful spot to rest your bones after a long day along and on the water. 

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