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JUNGLE TOUR-SANTA MARTA

JUNGLE TOUR Santa Marta: somos una empresa local e innovadora fundada en 2016, comprometida con la sostenibilidad turística . En las visitas a nuestra jungla colombiana, de la mano con nativos y locales, queremos brindar el mejor servicio y llenar las expectativas de todos los viajeros.

En nuestras montañas y selvas contamos con culturas, naturaleza viva, ríos, cascadas, hermosas y mágicas playas.

Ofrecemos experiencias directas , con guías profesionales de la región, los cuales han tenido un reconocido esfuerzo por superarse y poder brindar lo mejor de sus conocimientos: con más de 10 años de experiencia en el sector turístico, y apoyados por las comunidades indígenas locales que están dispuestas a compartir sus historias, tradiciones y conocimientos ancestrales, queremos brindar un servicio de calidad basado en el respeto medioambiental y cultural , sin alterar el entorno ni los principios y valores de las poblaciones que visitamos.

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Entre nuestros destinos, encontrarás toda la variedad y biodiversidad de nuestra selva samaria: recuerda descargar nuestro portafolio, o escríbenos para más detalles e informaciones..

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  • DESTINATIONS
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TOURS Y AVENTURAS EN MINCA

jungle tour santa marta

Minca is a small village inhabited by 800 people at an elevation of 650m in the Sierra Nevada above Santa Marta. It is famous for its organic coffee and has a much cooler temperature than the sweltering Santa Marta. The village is charming, and has in the past few years grown as a traveler and birdwatching destination after the conclusion of the armed conflict. It attracts mostly backpackers who want a week or two off from the beaten track and indulge into tranquility. It's a great base for hiking, mountain-biking, bird-watching and other outdoor activities, offering fresh mountain breeze, over 300 bird species nearby and spectacular views. For such a small town.

The town center itself is a quaint and cozy little mountain town with much to offer, including great restaurants, pool tables, bars, hotels, internet, around the city center.. It is when you explore its very mountainous edges when you discover the true magic of Minca in some truly spectacular hostels, farms and places to relax by the river or a beer and panoramic sea views in the distance.

Minca is your getaway from the heat and fever of the coast of Colombia. On this site you will find all the resources at the Jungle Joe Minca offers: outdoor adventures such as hiking, bird watching, visiting a coffee farm and mountain biking. It also provides information about the variety of good restaurants and hotels / hostels in town.

Come say hello once you get to Minca!

Minca es un pequeño pueblo habitado por 800 personas a una altura de 650 m.s.n.m. en la Sierra Nevada sobre Santa Marta. Es famoso por su café orgánico, con una temperatura más frescante que Santa Marta. Minca ha crecido en los últimos años como destino viajero, es el perfecto plan para la observación de aves.

Atrae principalmente a mochileros que quieren una semana o dos fuera de los caminos trillados, para disfrutar de la tranquilidad. Es una base ideal para practicar senderismo, ciclismo de montaña, observación de aves y otras actividades al aire libre. Ofrece la brisa fresca de la montaña, más de 300 especies de aves cercanas, vistas espectaculares y recuerdos inolvidables.

La ciudad es pequeña, con montañas pintorescas, Santa Marta con mucho que ofrecer; incluidos excelentes restaurantes, bares, hoteles, hostales, hermosas playas. Cuando exploras sus bordes montañosos descubres la mágica Minca; sus hostales, hoteles, fincas, restaurante. Todos lugares realmente espectaculares para relajarse junto al río, senderos y vistas panorámicas a las montañas o al mar.

Minca, es una escapada del calor de la Costa de Colombia. En éste lugar encontrará todos los recursos que ofrece Jungle Joe Minca:

● Aventuras al aire libre.

● Caminatas o senderismo.

● Observación de aves.

● Visitas a Fincas Cafeteras.

● Museo del Cacao.

● Museo de la Memoria.

● Fabrica de Cerveza Artesanal.

● Variedad de restaurantes.

● Ciclismo de montaña.

● Punto de Información sobre los restaurantes, hoteles, hostales y los planes que hay para hacer.

¿Que esperas para visitar este bello paraíso? Ven y enamórate de Minca.

jungle tour santa marta

Get in ( EN)

The road leading to Minca has been recently rebuilt (2015) and is in a good condition. Local Santa Marta taxi drivers are willing to take you up to Minca for about $40,000-$50,000 COP (as of March 2019). There are also colectivos (shared taxis) that leave from the marketplace in Santa Marta. “La Estacion de Minca” is the old station for the colectivos. The new one is located in Calle 12, carrera 9, the company is called "Cootrasminca". The journey will cost you 8,000 COP (as of July 2019) and the car leaves when it is full. It normally takes 15-20 min for the car to fill up so don't be in too much of a hurry. The journey to Minca will take around 30 minutes. However, on weekends and public holidays, it might take longer.

jungle tour santa marta

About Jungle Joe - Bamboo House (EN)

Jungle Joe is an avid birder and owner of Minca i-Center, where you can have all the best experiences and learn about what to do in Minca and book all your outdoor adventure and tours in Minca.

Joe is passionate about protecting the natural environment and the preservation of wildlife.

As evidence of sustainable living practices, Joe built himself a bamboo house here in Minca and live in it.

La carretera que conduce a Minca ha sido reconstruida recientemente (2015) y está en buenas condiciones. Los taxistas locales de Santa Marta están dispuestos a llevarte a Minca por alrededor de $ 40,000 - $ 50,000 COP (a marzo de 2019). También hay colectivos (taxis compartidos) que parten del mercado de Santa Marta. La Estación de Minca es la antigua estación de los colectivos. El nuevo está ubicado en Calle 12, carrera 9, la empresa se llama "Cootrasminca". El trayecto te costará 8.000 COP (a partir de julio de 2019) y el cual sale rumbo a Minca cuando está lleno el cupo de pasajeros. Por lo general, el automóvil tarda entre 15 y 20 minutos en llenarse, así que no tenga demasiada prisa. El viaje a Minca durará alrededor de unos 40 minutos. Sin embargo, los fines de semana y días festivos, puede tardar más.

Acerca de Jungle Joe - Bamboo House (SP)

Jungle Joe es un ávido observador de aves y propietario de Minca i-Center, donde puede tener las mejores experiencias. Aprende sobre qué hacer en Minca y reserva todas tus aventuras y excursiones al aire libre en Minca.

Joe es un apasionado de la protección del medio ambiente y la preservación de la vida silvestre.

Como prueba, práctica la vida sostenible, Joe construyó una casa de bambú aquí en Minca y vive en ella.

jungle tour santa marta

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jungle tour santa marta

  • Lost City Trek (4 days)
  • Lost City Trek (5 days)

Lost City Trek (6 days)

jungle tour santa marta

Come and discover the Lost City of Colombia.

You can choose your hike intensity according to your capabilities or the number of days you want to spend in contact with nature., a unique and amazing experience that you will never forget, you can choose your hike intensity according to your capabilities or the number of days you want to spend in contact with the nature., what is included in the lost city tour.

jungle tour santa marta

ACCOMODATION

The accommodation during the tour is in hammocks, beds or tents, depending on availability. We provide mosquito nets and blankets.

jungle tour santa marta

Typical food prepared by local chefs and fruits and snacks during walks.

jungle tour santa marta

TRANSPORTATION

Round trip transfers from the hotel or where you stay to the starting point of the tour (El Mamey) in 4WD vehicles.

jungle tour santa marta

Our professional guides are from the region trained by SENA, with years of experience.

jungle tour santa marta

TRAVEL INSURANCE

During the Lost City Trek, you will have a medical assistance insurance that cover accidents and illness occurred during the tour.

jungle tour santa marta

ENTRANCE TO THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK

During the Lost City Trek, you will have medical assistance insurance that covers accidents and illness occurred during the tour.

Lost City Trek Colombia

The Lost City is located in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in Colombia. The diversity of fauna and flora of the road, the opportunity to interact with the indigenous communities that inhabit it and the conditions of the trail, have made the tour to the Lost City one of the best treks in South America .

The Lost City  is the best opportunity to connect with nature and prove yourself everything you are capable of. Doing the Lost City Trek will allow you to know part of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in Colombia . You will also have the opportunity to have direct contact with the Kogui ; who still preserve the traditions of the Tayronas, the first inhabitants of the Lost City. If you want to know more information about the Lost City , clic here!

CHOOSE THE BEST TOUR FOR YOU

We offer you three options to do the Lost City Trek: Adventurous (4 days tour), Knowing nature (5 days tour) and Trek Slow (6 days tour). You can choose your hike intensity according to your capabilities or the number of days you want to spend in contact with the nature.

jungle tour santa marta

Lost City Trek (6 days) The Lost City Trek (6 days) is ideal for people […]

jungle tour santa marta

Lost City Trekking (5 days)

Lost City Trekking (5 days) You have the choice to change it to the four […]

jungle tour santa marta

Trekking to Ciudad Perdida (4 days)

Trekking to Ciudad Perdida The Trekking to Ciudad Perdida (4 days) is the most adventurous […]

BLOG ABOUT LOST CITY

how to get to the lost city colombia

How to get to the Lost City?

The Lost City in the Sierra Nevada of Santa Marta is one of the most […]

jungle tour santa marta

Tourism and Peace

Tourism and Peace The route to Lost City “Teyuna” in the Sierra Nevada de Santa […]

If you want to know other archaeological parks of Colombia, enter to the official page of the ICANH

© 2012 LostCityTrekColombia, All Rights Reserved — Lost City's authorized operator — Santa Marta, Colombia.

A Blog About Life & Travel in France

How to Trek to Colombia’s Lost City (Ciudad Perdida)

  • By Jen Ciesielski
  • Updated: 1 June 2024

Buried deep in Colombia’s Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta jungle lies an elusive ancient city, Ciudad Perdida (Lost City). For thousands of years, this magnificent wonder was closed to the outside world. It was decades before anyone even found a path to its doors. But today you can visit Ciudad Perdida by what is commonly called the Lost City Trek. This four-day hike takes you through the dense jungle, where the humidity is so thick, that you’ll feel like you’re walking through a waterfall. And the heat? There is no escape. Even in the shade of the trees, you can feel the blistering sun. It’s a grueling trek no doubt. You’ll forge rivers, trek through knee-high mud, and sweat more than you could have ever imagined. But, for a chance to stand on the high terraces and take in the views of the Lost City, it’s worth it!

Over the years, I’ve visited the ruins of many ancient civilizations, like the Mayan Ruins in Mexico , but none compared to Ciudad Perdida. It requires skills, determination, and perseverance to see this hidden gem. And it’s this very exclusivity that made it that much more rewarding. So, to help you get the most out of your trip I’ve included everything you need to know about the Lost City Trek.

High Terraces in La Ciudad Perdida, Colombia

Table of Contents

A brief history of colombia’s lost city, lost city tour companies, practical information.

  • Hiking Itinerary

Packing List

Tips for trekking to ciudad perdida.

It’s believed that Colombia’s Lost City was founded some 650 years before Machu Picchu, around the seventh century. At its peak, archaeologists believe some 2500 people inhabited this 80-acre site. Interestingly, it was built by the Taironas, an indigenous tribe, who named it Teyuna. And it wasn’t until the 1970s when it was rediscovered, that it was dubbed Ciudad Perdida or Lost City.

Today, much of the Lost City remains buried in the jungle, and only about 15% has been uncovered. There are no plans for further excavation, but this site is so impressively large that it takes hours to visit.

Colombia’s Lost City can only be accessed as part of an organized tour. Not only that but there are a limited number of tour operators. The goal is to keep the visitor numbers down and promote local businesses. Each agency has its own guides, translators, and chefs. And, while the trek and the cost are the same, the service is not.

In Santa Marta, there are four main tour agencies: Expotur Eco Tours , Magic Tours, Guias Y Baquianos, and Turcol Travel. Of these four, Expotur and Magic Tours offer the best and most consistent service. Not only that but they use local guides and provide a translator.

Useful Tip : I used Expotur Eco-Tours and was pleased with the quality of service. They went above and beyond to ensure we had a good time!

Sunrise Over the Jungle during the Trek to Ciudad Perdida

Location: The trek starts and ends in Santa Marta where you will take a bus to and from El Mamey (the trailhead).

Distance (round trip): 44 kilometers (27.4 miles)

Time: 4 days

Useful Tip : Tour companies offer five and six-day treks. If you think you will need a recovery day, then it’s worth considering these options. The price is the same either way. But most hikers wanted to return to Santa Marta on day four.

Difficulty : Moderate to Difficult.

Signage: There are no signs, so you’ll have to follow your guide.

Terrain : The trail is a muddy and rocky footpath. There are almost no flat sections. It’s mostly rolling hills.

Elevation : Lowest point – 200 meters (656 ft.), Highest point – 1200 meters (3936 ft).

Accommodation: Hammocks and/or twin-size beds.

Resupply points : There are a few options to buy snacks and drinks on the trail and at campsites. Make sure to bring extra cash, debit/credit cards are not accepted.

Water : Tour companies provide refills.

Electricity : You can recharge your phone at each campsite, but there are a limited number of outlets. It’s best to have an external battery.

When to Go : The Lost City Trek can be done year-round, except in September. Since the dry season in Colombia is from December to March, these are the best months to go. Outside this time, torrential downpours can be expected on a daily basis.

Cost : $1.400.000 COP ($350 USD) + gratuities.

Hiking Itinerary for Ciudad Perdida

Hidden Terraces in La Ciudad Perdida, Colombia.

Ciudad Perdida Itinerary – Day 1

Total Distance for Day 1: 6.8 kilometers (4.2 miles)

9:00 am to 12:00 pm – The first day starts in Santa Marta at your tour company. You’ll then drive to El Mamey where you’ll eat lunch and begin hiking to Camp 1.

12:00 pm to 4:00 pm – From El Mamey to Camp 1, it’s a 4-hour uphill climb . As you enter the jungle the heat and the humidity will hit you like a ton of bricks. But fear not, at the top of the first hill, there is fresh-squeezed orange juice. It will quench your insatiable thirst and give you the energy you’ll need to finish the first day.

4:00 pm to 8:00 pm – Once you arrive at Camp 1, you’ll be able to take a cold shower and rinse the salty sweat off your body. After everyone has showered, you’ll eat dinner and watch the sunset over the jungle. By eight o’clock, most hikers are already in bed.

Ciudad Perdida Itinerary – Day 2

Total Distance for Day 2: 14.7 kilometers (9.1 miles)

5:00 am – Wake-up call! Most tours start hiking as early as possible. The afternoon heat is nothing to be trifled with, and this is the best way to avoid it.

6:00 am to 11:00 am – After a hearty breakfast, you’ll head out to Camp 2 for lunch. It’s not far, but the muddy trail will slow you down. It’s like treading water and no matter how fast you think you’re going; you never seem to get very far.

11:00 am to 1:30 pm – Once everyone arrives at Camp 2, you’ll eat lunch and, if you want to cool off, you can swim in the river.

1:30 pm to 3:30 pm – After lunch, you’ll head out to Camp 3. It’s not as difficult as the first part of the day, but the intense heat from the sun will slow you down. Make sure to take your time and drink plenty of water.

3:30 pm to 8:00 pm – The end of the second day finishes like the first day. Except here you’ll have the opportunity to sleep in a hammock. It’s significantly cooler than a bed and makes for a pleasant night.

Ciudad Perdida Itinerary – Day 3

Total Distance for Day 3: 6 kilometers (3.7 miles)

5:00 am – Wake-up call!

6:00 am to 11:00 am – After breakfast, you’ll head out for the most anticipated day of the hike. It’s only an hour to the entrance of the Lost City, but don’t be fooled. You’ll have a few obstacles along the way. First, you forge a waste-high river, then you’ll climb 1200 narrow and slippery stairs. But once you reach the top, you forget the journey and be in awe of the beauty around you. You’ll spend the morning learning about its history, exploring the ruins, and taking in the magnificent views. Not only that but, if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to meet the Shaman (i.e. the highest member among the indigenous tribe). Only he and his family are allowed to live in the city!

11:00 am to 1:00 pm – After visiting the Lost City, you’ll head back to Camp 3 for lunch.

1:00 pm to 4:00 pm – Then, it’s a short hike to Camp 2, where you’ll eat dinner and have another opportunity to swim in the river.

4:00 pm to 8:00 pm – The end of the third day finishes like the others. The beds here are without a doubt the comfiest, guaranteeing a perfect night’s rest. Be forewarned, there is a shortage of beds here, so you may have to share with one of your fellow hikers.

Ciudad Perdida Itinerary – Day 4

Total Distance for Day 4: 16.5 kilometers (10.2 miles)

5:30 am to 12:30 am – Today is your last day and it’s an easy one. After breakfast, you’ll head back to the trailhead and it’s all downhill.

Useful Tip : Make sure to have trekking poles. The descent can be hard on your knees and trekking polls can decrease the impact.

12:30 am to 1:30 pm – One last lunch in El Mamey with your fellow hikers and you’ll head back to Santa Marta.

Check out my ultimate hiking gear checklist for the specifics of each item listed below.

Hiking Gear

  • Backpack (20-30 Liters)
  • First Aid Kit (Mosquito repellent, Band-Aids, disinfectant, and pills (ibuprofen, anti-nausea, and anti-diarrhea))
  • Water Bladder/Bottle (2 Liters)
  • Dry Bags (or rain cover for your backpack)
  • Trekking Poles
  • Hiking Boots
  • Quick-dry T-shirt (4x)
  • Standard Hiking Shorts (1x)
  • Hiking Socks (4x)
  • Underwear (4x)
  • Bandana/Hiking Buff

Personal Hygiene Items

  • Toilet Paper
  • Extra Contacts and Contact Solution
  • Toothbrush and Toothpaste
  • Face/Body Soap

Electronics

  • Phone (with maps.me downloaded)
  • Camera Gear
  • External Battery

Shaman's Family and Living Quarters at Ciudad Perdida

  • Make sure everything is in waterproof bags. Torrential downpours are not uncommon.
  • Drink a lot of water. The heat and humidity are intense and it’s easy to become dehydrated.
  • Make sure to follow Leave No Trace Principles .
  • Wear fast-drying clothes. Even in the dry season, the heat is so intense that you’ll are constantly sweating.
  • Bring extra cash and don’t carry more than 2L of water. You can buy fresh orange juice and Gatorade at campsites and various spots along the trail. It’s best to keep your bag as light as possible.
  • Use Nopikex Bug Repellent. It’s sold in a little black box at the pharmacies in Santa Marta. It’s the only brand that works.
  • Bring a bandana or hiking buff to wipe the sweat from your eyes during the trek.
  • Bring a lightweight bed liner. The bedsheets at the camps are not washed. While it is required to take a shower before use, it’s better to have one.
  • Carry the lightest pack possible. Some people hiked with only one shirt and a bottle of water.
  • Hiking boots are necessary . The trail is slippery even in the dry season, and you’ll need extra ankle support.

Trekking to Colombia’s Lost City is an adventure like no other. It will challenge you in every way possible. But if you’re willing to make the effort, you won’t regret it. So, use the guide to help plan your adventure. It’s guaranteed to be nothing short of spectacular. Then, plan a trip to Salento , the perfect place to relax and rest your weary feet!

Read More Hiking Articles

Hope you enjoyed my guide to trekking to Ciudad Perdida and found it useful. Here are some of my other hiking adventures that you might find interesting.

  • How to Hike Acatenango
  • Climbing Chachani: Peru’s 6000m Volcano
  • How to Hike to Maragua Crater

Jen Ciesielski

Jen Ciesielski

Jen Ciesielski is the creator of Dabbling in Jet Lag. She has lived abroad for over ten years, traveled to more than 50 countries, and speaks French and English fluently. Her areas of expertise include moving abroad, learning languages, and travel planning. Originally from the United States, she now lives in France, where she has been for more than six years. She has also traveled extensively around the country. She shares her experiences as an expat living in France and helps thousands of people plan their trips every month.

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I Used Insider Tips to Plan a Multi-city Brazil Trip — Here's How You Can, Too

Recommendations from family and friends made my first trip to Rio, Trancoso, and Salvador unforgettable.

After years of intermittent planning, replaying scenes from the famous film “Black Orpheus,” and seeing streets teeming with swaying hips and sparkle during Carnival, I finally visited Brazil for the first time.

Equipped with a list of guidance from friends who frequent the South American country each year, those recommendations doubled with the help of people I met while there. One conversation can lead to some of the most lasting travel tips and memories — a gift that no Google search or online research can replace.

Here are some highlights of my visits to Rio, Trancoso, and Salvador de Bahia that made my week-long trip memorable. 

Rio de Janeiro

From my home base of Los Angeles, my Copa Airlines flight landed me in Rio a little after midnight. An overnight stay at Hotel Fasano , part of Leading Hotels of the World , offered views of the lulling waves of Ipanema Beach across the street at dusk — a vast contrast from the photos of shorelines brimming with tanned bodies and swimmers I’ve seen over the years. The moment was a peaceful introduction to a place where the city and sea spill into each other. The Phillipe Starck-designed property is an ode to modernism, with a lobby drenched in oceanside sunlight and buttery leather and wood textures. From my balcony, the golden sands of Copacabana, sounds of samba, and neighboring favelas seemed so close and far all at once. With just three days in Rio, I would, of course, visit the more well-known tourist attractions, but thanks to those recommendations and a bit of luck, I would learn much of the city's history and people, too.

What to Do in Rio de Janeiro 

The following day, I checked into Hotel Emiliano , which would serve as the base for the rest of my Rio introduction. The 90-room hotel's distinctive exterior of white, foldable shutters makes it stand out among the row of unmarked high-rise buildings and vendors just below on Copacabana Beach.

A rooftop pool with expansive views of Copacabana’s shimmering shoreline, an intimate spa, and two restaurants — including a foliage-filled Brazilian and Italian fusion restaurant, Emile . My tour guide , Edson “Eddie” Vander Campos Alves, was lively and informative. We visited Sugarloaf Mountain on a rainy day, and despite the less-than-ideal visibility from a location known for its awe-inspiring panoramic views of the city, Eddie’s undeniable passion for Rio made the weather a second thought.

After lunch at the plant-filled Escama , where families and friends dined over seabass and grilled lobster paired with zippy viogniers, we headed to Little Africa, located on the port of Rio. Shaped much in part by Black matriarchs who played a critical role in the creation of samba and the Afro-Brazilian religion Candomblé, Little Africa is the site of where nearly a million enslaved Africans finished their forced transcontinental journey to reach Brazil’s shores. Their traditions have had a lasting impact that still breathes life into every corner of Brazil — from samba drums to the palm oil and okra (quiabo) used in some of the country’s most famous dishes. Little Africa includes the port of Cais do Valongo — where enslaved Africans first arrived in Salvador — and Pedra do Sal, considered the samba's birthplace in Rio.

“In this region, Black people reimagined life in the diaspora, recreated affective bonds, resisted, earned money, made art, loved, and celebrated. Little Africa is a very important place to connect with the roots of Brazilian history and culture and to understand that the Black population was and is a fundamental part in building this nation, even though the official history denies it, “ said Luana Ferreira, a historian who offers licensed tours about Brazil’s Black history. Through her passionate knowledge, the streets of Little Africa came alive.

“Usually, Black people are only portrayed when the slavery system is spoken of, and on the tour, it is inevitable to touch on this subject. However, our main goal is to break this paradigm and present this region as the birthplace of Black culture in Rio de Janeiro, the birthplace of samba and our popular carnival.” Fortunately, several city officials and community members agree with this sentiment and advocate for bringing Little Africa to the forefront of tourism investments in the coming years. 

Where to Eat in Rio de Janeiro 

I arrived in Rio with a long list of restaurant recommendations from friends and colleagues. Some of my favorite meals included:

Mesa do Lado is a “gastrosensorial” experience created by Michelin chef Claude Troisgros. To get to the 12-seat experience, you’ll have to walk to the back of a restaurant called Chez Claude through red curtains. The orchestrated experience — more than two hours — is meant to heighten the dining experience through taste, hearing, sight, touch, and smell, achieved through projections of images and videos, set to songs by artists like Paulinho da Viola, Elza Soares, Cesária Évora, and even AC/DC. My favorite dishes of the night were the cassava biscuit served with truffle-infused parmesan cream and saumon à l'oseille — a salmon filet immersed in a cream-based sauce that contains chardonnay, dry vermouth, and sorrel leaves.

Then there's Oteque . Set in an old house in Rio’s Botafogo neighborhood, Chef Alberto Landgraf and his team execute an impressive seafood-based menu from an open-air kitchen. Landgraf's seasonal courses celebrate his Japanese heritage, including raw bluefin tuna with seaweed vinaigrette, pine nuts and caviar, monkfish with creamed burrata, and several fresh ceviches. Oteque also features many organic wines, chosen by sommelier Leonardo Silveira.

Lastly, up a winding hill in Rio’s bohemian Santa Marta neighborhood, Aprazível welcomes crowds from its multi-leveled, treehouse-like structure. Shaded wooden tables surrounded by lush plants offer views of Rio in the distance. It’s an ideal place to spend a slow afternoon and enjoy a passionfruit caipirinha and the catch of the day served alongside coconut rice and baked banana.

Located on the coastline of Bahia, Trancoso is a small fishing village turned bohemian enclave dotted with coral-colored buildings, long stretches of golden sand beaches, and dirt roads decorated with banana trees and bursts of jungle plants. To get there, I flew just under two hours from Rio to Porto Seguro airport. Then, it’s a 90-minute drive through bumpy dirt roads to get to the vibey beach town that's drawn celebrities like Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, and Leonardo DiCaprio to its shores.

What to Do in Trancoso 

Choosing Trancoso as a second stop on my multi-city Brazil trip was deliberate. There’s only so much to do in the laidback region, and that slow pace is exactly what I craved after leaving Rio’s busy streets.

I checked into Fasano Trancoso , a sprawling 740 acres set amongst a natural reserve between tropical forest and the ocean. Like its Rio sibling, the property, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, came highly recommended by several friends for its sweeping location. Here, 40 geometric white bungalows face the ocean, some with rooftop decks, and a beachside restaurant decked out with salvaged furniture is where I enjoyed a freshly grilled lobster and the addictive queijo de Coelho, a firm white cheese that’s grilled and topped with honey.

The hotel is just a 20-minute drive from Trancoso’s Quadrado, a historic town square that I quickly learned is the heartbeat of the area. During the day, most of the tropical-colored fishing homes and a 16th-century white church that borders its grassy center are closed, but at night, the live drumming and capoeira dancers fill the square, and several restaurants and bars open their doors to crowds. About a five-minute drive from the Quadrado, Nativos Beach is a popular stretch of sand that includes two volleyball fields, beach bars, and hotels. For a more isolated location, consider Rio da Barra, about a 15-minute drive north of the Quadrado.

Where to Eat in Trancoso 

Proximity to the beach and a tropical environment means there’s no shortage of seafood and fruits like acerola, the fibrous and sweet mangaba, and carambola (star fruit). At Capim Santo , first created by celebrated Brazilian chef Morena Leite’s mother, Sandra Marques, the menu focuses on Brazilian dishes executed with French techniques. I ate alfresco in their garden restaurant, on grounds also home to a small boutique hotel.

While dining at Mesa do Lado in Rio, Chef Troisgrois insisted that I dine at Alma Ninho , helmed by Morena Leite, who was raised in the Quadrado and focuses on highlighting the seafood flavors of Bahia. “We are on the beach and eat a lot of foods influenced by African cuisine, so coconut milk with seafood and fruits is part of what makes our tropical cuisine in Bahia so special.”

At Alma Ninho’s wooden bar, alongside just five other diners, I indulged in courses like churros with tapioca, grilled lobster with salad and granola from the nearby garden, and black ravioli with seafood — all plated on seashell-shaped plates.

The gastronomic experience is hosted in Leite’s six-suite guesthouse that overlooks the ocean and a mountainside bursting with plants. “We want you to feel at home here, and I want to share all the research I’ve done around the world, from the flavors of the food to the art displayed on the walls,” she said. This intimate celebration of Bahian food was my favorite part of visiting Trancoso.  

Traveling to Brazil

From my hometown of Los Angeles, Copa Airlines offers the shortest flights, typically with a layover in Panama City. Once in Brazil, regional airlines like Azul Airlines offer flights out of Rio to nearby cities like Porto Seguro and Salvador. 

After Trancoso, a one-hour flight north on the reliable and regional AZUL airlines landed me in Salvador , a city I had dreamed of visiting for years because of its rich Afro-Brazilian history. Fortunately, I arrived equipped with a wealth of recommendations from a friend, Aja, who visits the region annually with her family.

“As an African-American and member of the larger African diaspora, I am inextricably linked to Salvador, its people, history, and culture,” she told me before my visit. “I fell in love in Bahia, and every time I return with my growing family, our love deepens. Because of all that Salvador has given me, I am continuously finding ways to give back to this amazing city and its people.”

During my three days there, she gave me several incredible tips on what to see in the UNESCO World Heritage city, including the open-air market Feira de São Joaquim and Solar de Unhao, a complex of historic buildings near the Modern Art Museum. Over the years, the community has opened several bars and restaurants in this location, including the beloved Afro-Brazilian-themed restaurant Dona Suzana.

I checked into Hotel Fasano Salvador , a towering retreat housed in a building from the 1930s that overlooks a sheltered bay that opens to the Atlantic Ocean called Bay of All Saints. Fasano is one of the few luxury hotels in Salvador, but that’s set to change, as the city — which offers several welcoming bed and breakfasts — is rife with luxury development. Inside, 70 rooms in the Art Deco space are highlighted with warm organic tones, and a rooftop pool offers the best sunset views in the city alongside people watching on Castro Alves Square just below.

Best Time to Visit

Brazil’s summer months are between October and November, when tourist crowds are few and hotel prices are reasonably low. Carnival celebrations in Rio and Salvador in 2025 will occur at the end of February.

What to Do in Salvador

If I did just one thing in Salvador, Aja advised, it would have to be getting tickets to the Balé Folclórico da Bahia show. The 38-member dance troupe pays tribute to African deities (orixás), reenacts Maculelê, a dance celebrated by enslaved at the end of sugar cane season; capoeira, a martial arts dance brought to Brazil from Angola; and, of course, samba, whose roots began in the sugar cane mills of Salvador. The palpable joy of this performance, the whirlwind of colors that took flight with dance, the remembrance of a people who found the will to go in the face of the unimaginable — this is what this performance succeeds in covering and what is ever present on every corner of Salvador.

Salvador has the largest population of African descendants outside of Africa. Nearly every revered tradition in Brazil today, from capoeira to Carnival, was created by formerly enslaved people. The origins of that world-famous celebration can be viewed in the historical center of Pelourinho at Salvador’s Caso do Carnaval , which features several video projections, large-scale exhibits, and even a cinema room where you can learn several traditional Brazilian dances.

At Blue Praia Bar in the seaside Vermelho neighborhood, the city’s cool kids are scattered about among Balinese-style beds built between swaying palms and tableside at an al fresco dining space that overlooks Buracão Beach. This is where I spent my last afternoon in Salvador, with plates of cod croquettes and espetinhos de queijo. Tucked away on a quiet street, I instantly felt as though I had discovered one of the city’s gems, where the hours pass with ease as residents play soccer on golden sands and order glasses of passion fruit caipirinhas.

Where to Eat in Salvador 

Central to food in Salvador are the flavors of Africa, like palm oil (dendê), coconut milk, and cassava. Walking around the city, Baiana women dressed in billowing white cloth to honor Oxalá (the god of creation) sell acarajé, a typical Bahian snack made of mashed black-eyed beans, onions, and shrimp fried in palm oil. During slavery, many descendants of enslaved women gained their freedom and financial independence by selling these snacks. Don’t miss an opportunity to stop at a tabuleiro (stand) on the street and get a taste of this important symbol of power. At Casa de Tereza , you can try acarajés and another famous Bahian dish — moqueca. The rich, coconut-based stew includes palm oil, dried shrimp, cassava flour, tomatoes, onions, and peppers.

More flavors from Africa, like a black-eyed pea dumpling called abará, can be enjoyed at Zanzibar, which overlooks the Bay of All Saints and Dona Mariquita , where popular dishes include cassava leaf stew and a milk pudding used in Candomblé to celebrate the Orixá, Yemanjá.

One of my favorite evenings was watching the sunset with a caipirinha in hand at Antique Bistrô , a former mansion with a patio with panoramic bay views. There are several small plates to pair with their popular cocktails, such as the tender smoked rib I had, which could have easily won at any barbecue competition.

At Origem , various takes on Brazilian foodways, from Indigenous corn to the citrusy umbu fruit, take center stage at this fine-dining favorite. A rotating tasting menu focuses on the five biomes of Bahia (Cerrado, Caatinga, Atlantic Forest, Coastal, and Marine Zone) to create a genuinely expansive gastronomic experience.

On my last night, I reserved a marina-side table at Mistura Contorno, a seafood-focused restaurant highly recommended by everyone I spoke to about Salvador’s dining scene. Mistura’s menu results from Chef Andréa Ribeiro's vision to fuse Mediterranean and Brazilian flavors, which, based on the lively space filled with patrons, has succeeded.

During my splurge-worthy finale dinner in a city I will return to, I enjoyed plates of grilled fish, calamari, lobster, octopus ceviche with coconut and Sicilian lemon, and a pappardelle ossobucco.

A final sunset and crayola-colored sky from my hotel balcony completed my first visit to Brazil — though it certainly won’t be my last.

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