suspension travel drz400

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Suspension advice for my DRZ400

Discussion in ' Australia ' started by Terryc , Aug 13, 2013 .

Terryc Been here awhile

Hi guys, I've started getting quotes on upgrading the suspension on my DRZ400e. I'm 120KG with gear on at about 6 foot 1. I'm doing regular trails riding but am looking to ride more difficult terrain once my skill improves. I've had a couple of phone calls with the SEQ based suspension vendors and I'm left a little confused as to how much to spend and what to get done. I'm a noob on all things dirt biking so any advice would be appreciated. I'm happy to spend a little more if the merit is there. The prices range from about $680 to $1400. Here is some of the text from one quote: "revalving fork and shock compression, mid valve and rebound damping, supply and fit stiffer rate fork and shock springs, including fork oil, shock oil, gas and valving shims" I know I've got to get back to them for a better explanation of the quote but I'm looking to get some feedback from the forum members before I go any further with the vendors... So, based on what I weight and the riding I'm planning on doing, what suspension work do you think needs to be done on a near new DRZ400e? Terry

Big Willy Gen. Italia

Go the stiffer springs first before you do any valving.

Gadget678 Long timer

I started to write a big, long winded, response... but will condense it to this: My suspension tuner was reluctant to do anything with my DRZ until he'd seen me & the bike together. By seeing me ride (just a short run) he was able to get a better idea of the bikes existing behaviours, and adjusted them accordingly; plus, what some people describe as "riding hard", others may look at as 'cruising' (and visa versa). When I was getting mine done in 2008, everyone I read about went straight for heavier springs..... After seeing me ride and reviewing the bike & what I planned to do, my tuner told me that the bike was "too heavily sprung" for me (Keeping in mind that I was 70kg + gear at the time). After doing the work, he took me out to do some 'fine tuning' of the clickers. All of the things that you mentioned are possibilities, and the prices seem to be in the ballpark. I would be inclined to take it to a professional tuner for the best results; and get it all done at once (yes $$$$, but Getting the suspension done is some of the best money you can spend on the bike:- it'll make you a better rider.)

kipo South Australian Tiger Resistance Group

Big Willy said: ↑ Go the stiffer springs first before you do any valving. Click to expand...

gordonmichaellee Been here awhile

I think if you ride hard enough to out do the standard suspension then you bought the wrong bike, it'll always be a bit heavy, but as a great dirtbike tourer they are superb ( in standard form ), I have a DRZ and all I've done is put a long range tank and some gaurds here and there. By keeping it standard if you ever needed to order parts then there will be plenty of options for you. IMHO. If you really want to be king of the trails then you'll need more than a DRZ, and that's coming from someone who loves his DRZ. Cheers Gordo'

stujamur keep rollin rollin rollin

Terry if you are new to the bike & new to dirtbiking i would not spend too much money. The drz is such an in between bike you may decide to put a big tank on and go the adv route or keep as trail bike which are 2 different set ups. If you are new, getting full suspension work done now may not suit the level of rider you might be in a years time. I would do the minimum $$$ wise until you see what you want from it, and if it is right for you.

B1 Carbon-based bipedal

gordonmichaellee said: ↑ I think if you ride hard enough to out do the standard suspension then you bought the wrong bike,... If you really want to be king of the trails then you'll need more than a DRZ, and that's coming from someone who loves his DRZ. Cheers Gordo' Click to expand...

barneyrubble ?

I'm 6'4 and around the 115kg mark and have had 2 DRZ's. First one was ridden for a couple of years as stock. Just wound up the shock spring collars a bit and played around with clickers until it felt a little more postive to ride. Never had any issue as never knew any different. The second one pretty much out of the box I had heavier springs back front, emulators in the front and the shock revalved(shimmed) and regassed etc. $870 all up from memory but that's here in SA. Different bike much more confidence inspiring and easier to ride. Tracks better out of corners and copes with rockier Flinders Ranges type trails much easier or maybe I just got better who knows. I guess also it depends on your budget as well. The first one I had was in part left alone due to lack of funds and yet still had a ball on it.

Terryc said: ↑ Do you think the valving is not worth the money? From what I've read on this forum and others, the DRZ is, out of the factory, sprung for lighter/average riders. Click to expand...

gordonmichaellee said: ↑ I think if you ride hard enough to out do the standard suspension then you bought the wrong bike, it'll always be a bit heavy, but as a great dirtbike tourer they are superb ( in standard form ), I have a DRZ and all I've done is put a long range tank and some gaurds here and there. By keeping it standard if you ever needed to order parts then there will be plenty of options for you. IMHO. If you really want to be king of the trails then you'll need more than a DRZ, and that's coming from someone who loves his DRZ. Cheers Gordo' Click to expand...

barneyrubble said: ↑ I'm 6'4 and around the 115kg mark and have had 2 DRZ's. First one was ridden for a couple of years as stock. Just wound up the shock spring collars a bit and played around with clickers until it felt a little more postive to ride. Never had any issue as never knew any different. The second one pretty much out of the box I had heavier springs back front, emulators in the front and the shock revalved(shimmed) and regassed etc. $870 all up from memory but that's here in SA. Different bike much more confidence inspiring and easier to ride. Tracks better out of corners and copes with rockier Flinders Ranges type trails much easier or maybe I just got better who knows. I guess also it depends on your budget as well. The first one I had was in part left alone due to lack of funds and yet still had a ball on it. Click to expand...

stujamur said: ↑ It is sprung for a lighter rider ( but it also comes down to how hard you will push the bike) , and if you feel this is "the bike" for you and will keep it for a fair while then its worth spending the $$$ in my opionion. But historically a lot of people buy the drz as a first trail bike and soon sell to buy a bigger adv bike or lighter enduro bike . ( and many go back to it for simplicity and solidness ). As others have mentioned you could just get the right springs front & back for about $320 and put them in youself. I had mid valving done on my bike and for me it was well worth it as i have plans to keep the bike and was pushing it much harder then i did my drz. Click to expand...

XRman Long timer

I liked that video B1 . It sums up the DRZ400 pretty well. As an average trail bike it is fine as is, but if you want to add weight to it (big tank/ luggage) or go fast, then stiffer springs and a ravalve are a must, or else you will crash more than you should. You can get carried away with mods and it ends up being an expensive exercise. Often the end product of a major modification of the DRZ is not as good as an enduro bike and its resale value is discounted in the market. Best mods I have done 1) lower seat so I could touch the ground more. 2) steering damper 3) stiffer suspension ( I used to ride enduro bikes so the DRZ felt too soft for my liking)

XRman said: ↑ I liked that video B1 . It sums up the DRZ400 pretty well. Click to expand...

OK then I am a light weight too at <80 kg. just. I would routinely alter suspension to suit my riding style before any other mod. The spend money on good tyres. Keeping the tyres in contact with the ground makes for a better/confident ride. So if you are going to add farkles do the springs and revalve before any power pipe. Add a good bash plate, engine side cover protection and radiator covers (I like Force brand stuff)

suspensionmatters n00b

Terryc said: ↑ Hi guys, I've started getting quotes on upgrading the suspension on my DRZ400e. I'm 120KG with gear on at about 6 foot 1. Click to expand...

Terryc said: ↑ So, if you had to do it all again, would you have spent the money again on the same work? Click to expand...

PRITCH139 Been here awhile

Terry all of my bikes are on standard suspension. I am 120kg without gear and I go most places on both my Transalp and WR, I am not saying suspension mods are not worth the money, just that you can ride fairly quickly and cleanly without spending the money. If you have heaps of coin by all means go for it, but it is probably unnecessary at the moment. just my opinion mate, I have seen you ride and you do just fine without throwing the coin at the bike. By the way when you are a bigger guy, bikes like DR's and Drz's can be used as single track bikes that will go anywhere with minimal fuss, you don't need an enduro weapon. Pritch

searchin oz Sand, Gimme more sand

I too have had my suspension done by the same bloke as Gadget, so has my best mate. All three of us are very happy. Warren Smart is his name, Kontrol Faktory Suspension is his business. I rode my DRZ about 3kms standard, roughly how far it is from the shop to home. I'm around 110 fully loaded and an ex racer so the DRZ does cop a hiding. All my bikes have had suspension work done from new. Its the best performance mod I've ever done to a bike bar none. That includes spending over $15000 on my XR for desert racing back in the late 90's. No point going fast then getting spat off at the first bump....

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Suzuki DR-Z400 (S, E, SM): review, history, specs

Class : dual sport, motard

Production : 2000+

Specifications

Suzuki DR-Z400 (S, E, SM): specs.

Suzuki DR-Z400 (S, E, SM): images, gallery.

Suzuki DR-Z400 (S, E, SM): video.

Suzuki DR-Z400 (S, E, SM): manuals, parts, microfiches.

• Suzuki DR-Z400: Clymer Repair Manual
• ↑ Motorcycle Consumer News (MCN) "Performance Index 2015" | Suzuki DR-Z400SM (07/2005) | Average MPG
• ↑ Motorcycle Consumer News (MCN) "Performance Index 2015" | Suzuki DR-Z400SM (07/2005) | 0-60 mph
• ↑ Motorcycle Consumer News (MCN) "Performance Index 2015" | Suzuki DR-Z400SM (07/2005) | Top speed

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2021 Suzuki DR-Z400SM

Suzuki’s slick supermoto.

SUZUKI DRZ400S (2001 - 2009) Review

• Extremely durable dual-purpose bike
• Approachable handling with off road ability
• Under-stressed engine is a reliable old thing

At a glance

Overall rating.

If you are looking for a bike that is the perfect off-road companion for exploring your local green lanes on, look no further than a Suzuki DRZ400 S.

• Related:   How to ride off road

Although there were a few DRZ 400 models before the S (and a DR350 before the 400 ), the original one only had a kickstart and while the E did have an electric starter and was road legal, it isn’t as refined as the later S and is more a ‘legalised enduro’ than a proper dual purpose trail bike like the S.

Why is this important? Riding the trails is only a small part of what a DRZ 400 S can do and with its pillion pegs, mirrors, softer engine tune and full instruments, the S makes for a good commuter as well as a weekend green lane explorer.

Despite getting on for 20 years old now, the DRZ 400 S is still a really popular model for those who enjoy a bit of light trail riding (remember, green lanes require your bike to be road legal and with an MOT) and if you go to forums such as Thumper Talk, which is all about single cylinder bikes, you will find a whole section dedicated to the DRZ 400.

And not just populated by UK fans, the DRZ was successful in America and Australia where its rugged nature made it perfect for exploring the wilderness on. In the UK they remain a very popular bike with TRF members, so their forum is also worth putting up a post on if you want to know a bit more about them.

Light, reliable and fairly cheap to buy, the DRZ is a bike that will plod on through just about any conditions. And if you aren’t interested in off-road, there was even a Supermoto version, the DRZ 400 SM, which arrived in 2005 and is far more road-orientated.

After you've read this review and our owners' reviews, you may want to join the Suzuki Owners' Club to find out more and talk to current owners.

Ride quality & brakes

You have to remember that the DRZ 400 S was designed as a dual-purpose trail bike and that means there are a few compromises in terms of its handling.

The skinny 21-inch front wheel is the perfect size for knobbly tyres (or semi-knobbly if you are doing mainly road miles) but due to its size and width it can feel a little vague on the road, especially in the wet.

The suspension is also built with off-road in mind and that means a wallowy ride (the weight of a pillion makes the shock almost hit the end of its travel) and the single two-piston front caliper is pretty weak in its performance. However all of this is to be expected from an enduro bike and if you want more road performance, there is an alternative.

The DRZ 400 SM with its 17-inch wheels, inverted forks and uprated brakes is a far better pure road bike than the S, so have a think about if you really want to ride off-road before you decide on the DRZ model to buy.

If you really want an S and are looking at road riding, adding firmer springs to the forks will remove a lot of the dive while swapping the shock’s spring (or investing in an aftermarket unit) will make the back end far more supportive for not a great deal of outlay.

And be careful with the tyres you pick as they make a huge difference to not only road noise but also the grip levels – the more off-road targeted the less road grip and the noisier the ride.

The DR-Z’s single cylinder motor is a good old-fashioned plodder and with a double overhead cam, four valves and a water-jacket is hardly being stressed to produce 39bhp and 29ft.lb of torque.

The fact it has an electric start is a major bonus for anyone looking at trail riding and so is its reliability. Owners report that in terms of mechanical failures, the single is very solid and your main worry comes from things vibrating loose.

It seems like a tube of thread-lock is one of the most important tools in any DRZ owner’s kit and areas such as the front sprocket nut require a dab of it as a preventative measure.

The OE exhaust note is fairly wimpy and a lot of owners fit an aftermarket unit, mainly as there is a fair chance it will get dented but also to enhance its noise. There are carb re-jet kits that with a free-flowing exhaust help liberate a few extra ponies, but there aren’t huge gains to be had.

If you accept the DRZ is a 60mph maximum bike you won’t be disappointed. Pleasingly, it is very easy to home-service and just £80 will secure you a full service kit including an air filter, which is worth swapping fairly regularly as off-road use does see the Suzuki inhaling a fair amount of muck.

Reliability & build quality

The fact there are so many DRZs still plodding about the UK’s trails tells you all you need to know. This is a very reliable bike and while the build quality may not be that amazing, the fact the little Suzuki simply refuses to give up is what makes it special.

The main area of concern when buying a used one is how much off-road it has done as the jolts and bangs can create issues. Always inspect all the bearings (headstock, wheel, swingarm) as these are often badly worn, check the wheel rims for dents, the spokes for broken or rusty items, the exhaust for dents and holes and most importantly the radiator for leaks.

As the DR has fork gaiters it can be tricky to check the seals for leaks, however this is worth doing as it is a nuisance to have them replaced. With the bike upright, have a good look down the length of the bike from the rear to see if the bars are straight, check the levers haven’t been bent and then forced straight again and ensure all the electrics work as they can be a weak point.

A lot of the forums suggest preventative measures to help keep the DRZ reliable, so check these out and see if they make sense to do and are within your skill set. Some are only applicable to fairly serious off-roaders. If the bike doesn’t start, check the switch on the clutch lever, which is prone to failing, and also the side-stand cut-out switch.

Our  Suzuki DRZ400 owners' reviews have loads of useful nuggets of information. The main comments are the thin, hard seat and the inability to reach 70mph on the motorway, but most users love their bikes.

A reader reports:

"In 2006 I bought myself an off road Susuki DR-Z400. Living here in Scotland this bike was the best all rounder I ever owned and I used it all year round - sun or snow.

"Unfortunately it was stolen in December, 2008 and I decided to buy the newer DR-Z400SM.

"The SM is just as solid as the off road version, but in snow with road going tyres it was hell. Recently I fitted it with Avon Distanzia trail tyres and it has much improved the handling on the icy roads of Scotland.

"On the road they seem to grip just as well as any road going tyre also. However they are rather expensive, but well worth it for your own safety.

"One problem we seem to have with these bikes in the very cold conditions is carb-freeze. The SM did suffer from this problem in the beginning but now it seems to have cured itself and has done 7000 miles in 12months. In all weathers without a single problem.

"It is a great bike for touring Scotland during the winter months and a great traffic-buster around town.

"They are really solid built bikes and well worth their weight in gold."

Value vs rivals

As it is fairly old and not that powerful, insurance is cheap on a DRZ and with 70mpg easily achievable, it isn’t that costly to run either, especially if you do all your own servicing.

There is nothing to be feared when it comes to basic maintenance on a DRZ and if you are at all bothered, there are loads of ‘how-to’ videos online when it comes to the basics. In terms of buying one, the DRZ isn’t really much of a bargain.

Because they are such a solid and popular bike, even a tatty DRZ will fetch £1500 and there are a few tidy bikes up for close to £4000. When you look at how much a modern trail bike is, there really is no need to pay anything like this amount.

If you can get one for under £2000 you should be happy, but paying much over this mark is a bit silly when you consider you can get a legendary Yamaha XT660R for £2500, which is just as rugged but has a bigger motor making it better for road riding, or a super-reliable Honda CRF250L for about the same amount and they are superb bikes for light trail riding.

• Related:   SWM RS650R review

If you're after a dirtbike-style city commuter but aren't planning to go anywhere near a trail, you could also consider a far smaller Yamaha WR250X .

Make sure you include room in your budget for good quality security as the DRZ (and any dirt bike for that matter) can be a favourite for bike thieves.

You don’t get much as standard on a DRZ and aside from the helpful seat-mounted tool kit (which by now will probably have had its contents pilfered) and a degree of adjustability in its suspension (the preload can be altered at both ends) that’s your lot.

But what else does it need? You have a speedo (no fuel gauge), horn, lights and everything to be road legal and that’s it. In terms of accessories, well that’s where it get interesting.

There are loads of companies that cater for the DRZ and exhausts, suspension upgrades, new bars, sticker kits and even big-bores are common. The best extras to fit are engine case protectors as the DRZ’s cases are a bit fragile and could split or fracture in an impact, crash bars to protect the tank from dings, radiator guards, a bigger sump guard and a beefier set of brush guards if you are heading onto the trails.

To be honest, messing about with the motor is best avoided as you will start to compromise its reliability levels. If the bike looks a bit tatty, don’t worry as complete body kits are cheap to buy and you can even get a bigger capacity tank for serious adventuring.

Model history & versions

Model history.

• 2000: The DR-Z400 replaced the DR350. A kickstart-only enduro, it was imported in limited numbers to the UK and could be made road legal.
• 2000: The DR-Z400E is sold alongside the DR-Z400 and replaces the kickstart with an electric start but otherwise is identical.
• 2001: The DRZ 400 S is launched. A road-legal light trail bike, it is in a lower state of tune than the DR-Z400 or DR-Z400E and comes with lights, mirrors, horn, pillion pegs and a speedo as well as a steel tank where the previous models have composite ones.
• 2005: The DRZ 400 SM is launched. A Supermoto version of the S, the SM has 17-inch spoke wheels, inverted forks, improved brakes and a swingarm from the RMZ.
• 2009: Production is stopped for the Suzuki DRZ400 S and SM.

Owners' reviews for the SUZUKI DRZ400S (2001 - 2009)

21 owners have reviewed their SUZUKI DRZ400S (2001 - 2009) and rated it in a number of areas. Read what they have to say and what they like and dislike about the bike below.

Review your SUZUKI DRZ400S (2001 - 2009)

Version: SM

Annual servicing cost: £100

SO. MUCH. FUN....if a bit bland. Probably the most well-rounded supermoto/dual sport on the market. Incredible aftermarket parts support. Don't expect the performance to set your hair on fire, but on a good B road you'll be able to hang with the big boys no problem.

Plush supermoto suspension, a little on the soft side as standard, but nothing a bit of tweaking can't sort out. Braking power is fair, you'll be able to stoppie just don't lean on them too hard with just one Nissin caliper. Increasing disc size and braided lines do wonders.

Great strong motor, could do with a 6th gear, underpowered compared to some similar bikes, but you get the reliability. You'd be looking at double the price for an equivalent supermoto (SMC, 701)Nothing the 3x3 airbox mod, exhaust system, and some carb tweaks can't fix.

Can't beat the reliability of a Dizzer, it's been around since the late 90s for a reason and remains relatively unchanged. Aftermarket support is probably one of the best of any motorcycle I've owned. (Thumpertalk, and even a free IOS app with parts diagrams, torque sheets)

Running costs, and servicing are super cheap relatively. Keep on top of servicing (Most is doable at home with a bit of research) and this bike will go on forever.

You get a speedo, trips, and clock...but who needs bells and whistles on a bike like this, you'll be having too much fun to look down at the clocks.

Buying experience: Becoming a bit rarer these days (Especially the SM), worth paying the money for a well-looked-after example. Expect to pay around £1000 more for the same bike from a dealer vs private.

Annual servicing cost: £20

I have a dr650. Carburettor model. It has sat for 3 months at a time and it will start first time. Its ideal as a comuter bike and is happy in traffic and cruising at 120 kph. It will go up to 160kph . Its an affordable option to a german dual sport. And can actually go off road. Bad points..... that seat. Its very narrow and hard.

It is a real dual purpose bike and is great fun on a gravel road. Its not for a pillion. After 1.5 hours your arse is numb. But its got wide pegs so you can stand up.

Acceleration from 40 to 80 kph.

It did die on me once when a relay failed. I have had no corossion issues

Just needs oil change. Which i can do myself

It didnt come with bark busters , which are a must , so that when you drop it you dont break the levers. It could also benefit from a belly pan .

Buying experience: Bought it private. It was under a year old in 2012 Paid R45,000.

Great fun when compared to other 400cc+ supermotos and crossers. The DRZ-400S is the all-rounder. It doesn't do track the best (21in front wheel just doesn't lend itself to this), and it doesn't do off-road the best. It is however the machine to choose if you want to do some fun road riding, and some fun green-laning on other occasions. As with all bikes, the 39bhp stated power is optimistic, and likely taken from the crank. I had my DRZ dyno'd at 33bhp yesterday. (Mods include a Scorpion end can, which on the dizzy, means that the only stock part of the pipe left is the header, as the stock muffler joins quite far down, by the cylinder.) Other than this, and against what most people would recommend, it hasn't been re-jetted or 3x3'd, (the airbox mod with a hole cut to increase air flow). The AFR chart suggests it needs a rejet, which I suspected of course. As a result, at 140kg's, the dizzy is neither the most powerful nor the lightest of crossers. My mate's KTM 690's and 525EXC leave it behind of course. But not too much. The DRZ-400S is still fast, managing between 5-6 seconds 0-60 or so from stock, varying due to the rider's skill. This bike can be shifted through the gears exceptionally quick due to lots of torque low down, though to get the peak torque in each gear, you'll need between 7 & 9000rpms of the DRZ's 10,000, developing the 25-27lb-ft of torque the bike will give. Mine is 12 years old. I don't know how, after this long, it is still developing 33bhp and 25lb-ft of torque, even taking into account the drop from manufacturer's stated at crank. This might be due to the DRZ being seriously reliable. I've never had any serious, mysterious issues. One leaky seal, sure, but 12 year old rubber is expected to fail. Make sure you always keep your engine oil topped up and do your proper oil changes, in summer mine likes to burn around 100-200ml of oil in a week's hard riding. One big mistake would be to get one of these and not fit a straight through pipe, as it sounds absolutely delicious, and everyone tells me this. The SM version with 17'' wheels front and rear is a better choice for those who only ever want to ride on road, and also take in on track too, but I only ride road and have never had 'problems' with the large 21'' front, and 18'' back wheels, but I'm sure I'm sacrificing some handling without a doubt. The dizzy is that reliable, happy, energetic and loyal labrador amongst the fast, high maintenance, machine-like greyhounds at the racetrack. This said, when I get a more powerful, faster and more high maintenance machine, I will definitely miss the DRZ, and will probably end up buying one again, just for the character of it.

Brakes are quite soft, but result in an easy ride. The seat however, is unbearable, but depends on how bony or soft your backside is. I can't tolerate more than 1.5 hours without needing to step off. Best point is it runs very smoothly, with vibration coming in around 65mph.

Seems like a lot more than 33bhp, torque is fantastic. Acceleration is brilliant. Doesn't like to cruise much above 60mph on stock gearing.

Keep your oil checked and coolant system full and flushed clean regularly, especially in summer, and she'll be fine.

Do the jobs yourself and it'll be cheap as chips. Oil change : £30

Basic equipment, but has steering lock, good digital clock, but would be nice to have a rev-counter and fuel indicator.

Ive had this bike for 2 1/2 years now and an excellent choice as a starter bike- it is so forgiving! You go into a corner too fast and on the wrong line for example, you can put the excellent brakes on and throw it over a bit and you can knock it down a gear instantly and it's corrected and it doesn't complain and you don't need to even grab the clutch! Very easy to ride - just don't open the throttle too violently because it can surge up the road- although it's not the sort of bike to loose traction easily and the delivery is predictable. Reliability has been an issue with the modified type of bike I bought second hand but that could be due to the Laser exhaust and dyno jet etc and long crack etc.... But overall it's a character filled bike with a huge heart! It should be rite of passage for all bikers? Having said that I struggled to get the bike to wheelie and am ready to try something more road orientated and better on the motorway- it does feel a bit unstable at high speed- and you end up forcing your weight into the bike to keep it stable. Incredibly it's actually better with a pillion at speed because of the additional weight. It can deal with this and it didn't feel underpowered which is testament to its torquey nature.

amazing great for pulling around cars and can cruise quite well

i have had my drz for 7 years its a 2002 model. when i bought it it had 2,000 miles on the clock.it has now done 10,000. for around town its exeptional the motor pulls well and is quick enough to get you ahead of the traffic the handling is very good but when cornering hard the front end tends to push out but is quite predictable 21 inch front wheel doesent help i have got bridgestone trail wing tyres which wear quickly and rubbish of road but good on road.high speed handling is nervous but ok when you get used to it the fuel consumption is about 60 mpg but if ridden carefully 75 mpg is possible reliability is good i have had to do the wheel bearings chain and sprockets and steering head bearings plus throttle and clutch cables but this was due to some plonker using a pressure washer to close to the seals. the reason i have given it 5 stars is the drz has character and a real fun bike to ride ive got a 1200 bandit but my drz is my bike of choise for every day use

CAN`T PRAISE IT ENOUGH

The DRZ doesn’t do anything that will blow you away; it just doesn’t do anything badly. It’s not a hardcore off-roader and you wouldn’t say it belongs exclusively on the asphalt; it’s simply the ultimate compromise and is happy to do what you ask of it. On road the engine is in a low state of tune and pulls way beyond the 400cc would have you believe. It inspires confidence and demands that you ring the neck out of the throttle. Throwing it into corners, it has the feel of a heavy mountain-bike, you can really move about on the narrow but comfy seat and you won’t be daunted whilst riding it on its limits. You will always feel in control of the Suzuki which seems desperate to do what you ask of it within its limits. Around town is a joy, ultra agile and the high seat position gives a good all round view. National speed limits are another matter entirely, despite my 125kg weight, it’s still good for 85mph but you wouldn’t want to stay there for any length of time. A lot of joy can be gained from off-roading and the ride won’t break its stride for ruts and divots. Standing on the pegs is remarkably easy but those with larger feet may take some time to get used to it. I have size 12 feet and any contact with the side stand will kill the engine. It took a while to get my foot position right as to not foul the stand. The DRZ almost demands to be dropped, dusted off and ragged again. Running costs and general maintenance are insignificant and it’s hard to give a reason why someone during their bike career should not sample this addictive ride.

ive been out on a 2009 drz400e and i tell you what other than the speed wobble, its such good fun, the knobbly tyres take some getting used but it just begs to be abused.

Great fun bike to ride. Cheap to buy, cheap to run and insure, reliable and looks the part. The only downside is the lack of power and low top speed which will leave you feeling bored after a while. This is why i think it'd make an excellent 2nd bike for the winter/wet weather but not as a main bike.

why "S" - soooo misleading! The DRZ a street bike? a supermoto? It reaaly is not. It shoud be called the "X/C" (cross country). As an X/C it is brilliant: tarmac/off-road/tarmac/off-road is where this bike truely excelles. I do 90 miles plus a day easy, half of it greenlaning (and standing of course, the seat is so uncomfortable you ache to get in the pegs again. And you need to plan your petrol stops well when riding in the middle of nowhere! all in all: so much fun. light, powerful, responsive, great ("X/C") suspension. Just that way home on Aroads or M-ways is a real pain. Any speed over 62mph feels like the engine wants to explode (though it reaches 80mph and more - didn't dear to try); where is that sixt gear, the power would certainly be sufficiant.

Now on my second 400SM as someone else decided they would like my black 2007 model so took it from outside my front door, now have blue/white 2008 model & only difference is the brake fluid resevoir is slightly higher. Love the look of it & as my first roadbike although nothing to compare against it handles great (although fell off on grass the other day). Only niggles are that you can't fit an alarm/immobiliser & gets a little bit light on the front around top end speed. Also, seat is not the most comfortable on long journeys. Currently restricted to 33bhp so haven't bothered with any mods until that comes off next year. I would be interested to know what is available & worth fitting to improve performance as seen some stuff on the net but want to spend my money on the right gear. Also, the review states about a rev counter, is this something you can switch on because I don't have one! Good value though, ideal for new riders.

Bought my Suzuki DRZ400S last month for £2100. It is a SK model, but had been fitted with Excel rims, Braking wavy discs, a Braking caliper,Renthal bars, Full Akrapovic titanium exhaust, bark busters, iridium mini indicators, Acerbis led rear light, and the number plate ends DRZ! Fantastic looking bike, i took the Akropovic off & sold on Ebay for £300, it was really loud, and the bike was running lean with it on. Put standard can on, & saw previous owner had drilled 4 large holes in airbox. Taped these up & it now runs fine (doesnt pull as strongly, but much quieter) Top speed about 95mph, does about 65-70 mpg. The brakes & handling are fantastic. I ride an R1 in the sunny weather, but if i'm going down country lanes i will take the DRZ. Power wise i was happy, until i rode a mates CCM R30 (a 650cc). This was a revalation, and now means the DRZ now needs to go, but it is a great bike anyway

Bought this bike for greenlaning, accident at work knackered my back so no more off road. Converted back for road use and I love it! Punchy engine and high position great for country riding down smaller lanes where I wouldn't take a sports bike, Metzeller enduro3 sahara tyres are grippy but still wearing in at the moment, stable after knobblies. FMF Ti full exhaust and iridium plug have freed up breathing and pickup, top fun but exhaust a bit noisy, so made baffle as I am a bit more responsible now (42)Finish easily marked but not treated with kid gloves. Have Bandit 1200 and Yam dt, but this is the bike I use for messing about on, quicker than you think, and safer not to annoy the plod more than you have to,. Buy another? In a heartbeat

I ride a Blackbird and wanted something completely different - this is it! Positives: Light, manouverable, upright, loads of "guts", fun to ride and chuck around, incredible value for money Negatives: A little heavy to lift back up when green laneing if you accidentally put it down!, Saddle not brilliantly comfortable for long periods of road riding.

Strengths: gem of an engine with bags of character. Looks brilliant (especially in rare black/silver). Light, manoeuvrable, and loads on fun on short journeys -makes a BMW 1200 GS feel like a massive unwieldy wildebeest. Weaknesses: horrible hard narrow saddle (aftermarket saddles now at last available tho I haven't tried one). Windblast (Cee Baileys now make a screen, I haven't tried it).

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I've been riding sportbikes for 6 years, mainly gsx-r's, which were all mighty great bikes but not in the environment&nbsp;I was spending most of my time. In town the gixer was cumbersome and intimidating and there are no nice twisty roads in the area where i live. The only real point to own a gixer was trackdays which happens like 2 or 3 times a year. So it was time for some drastic decisions. The reason why&nbsp;I ride is to have fun every minute I'm on the bike and not 2 or 3 times a year. And the SM fulfils the task admirably. It has such a playful personality it hurts. And its sooo easy to manage! Around town it will blow a sportsbike to weeds no questions asked. The ergos are perfect for city commuting and the bike feels almost weightless. Its a trafic jam ultimate weapon. And if you had enough on the street just jump off the tarmac and make your way through that lawn or park. Oh, and i was 3s faster compared to gixer around the local go-kart track first day&nbsp;I took it there. Strengths: Looks funky, completely reliable, handles beautifuly, seriously cheap to run, excellent build quality (I mean it), good adjustable suspenion, breaks have good power and feel, unintimidating to ride but tons and tons of fun. If you never managed a rolling stoppie in your life you will on this puppy, trust me on that one. And it crashes well too -&nbsp;I looped it in 5th doing 80mph and all the damage went to the rear lights, sidestand and handlebar cover. Gixer wouldnt be even rideable after this one. Weaknesses: Seat is hard and pain in the ass after an hour of riding. Avoid highways - you will bore yourself to death. Could use another 50cc of motor. Its not a beast like other SM's from husky or berg but&nbsp;I prefer Suzukis reliability instead. Standard Dunlops are ok, but not great -&nbsp;I wouldnt buy them again. Pilot Powers seem to be the choice for ultimate performance on tarmac and Avon Distanzias - the ones to go if you like to jump off the road ocasionally and still have excellent grip on the road.

What can you say about this bike that the sales figures don't already tell you? Currently the best dual purpose bike you can buy, and Suzuki can shift every one that they make for good reason-its a great bike Engine has enough power for gentle off-roading although it aint no 'crosser in terms of power (or weight for that matter). Can easily be pepped up with the 3x3 mod. This will add 2-3bhp all the way through the rev range, with much improved throttle response. Suspension is excellent esp on post 02 models as it is the same as that on the E model, Pre 02 models should be avoided due to soft soggy suspension. I bought mine after owning a modded KMX 200, and it is without doubt light years ahead in terms of engine and suspension. Doesn't rev like a 2 stroke though-despite what some people say Has a few design/reliabilty issues which need curing first but then its bullet proof Much better bike than my old KMX200 visit www.thumpertalk.com/forum for tips from other owners. Strengths: Engine, suspension. Weaknesses: A couple of design/reliability issues which need sorting ie Camchain tensioner, front sprocket loosening off, primary drive nut coming loose, thin engine cases.

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DRZ400S: Suspension

Street legal dualsport. Electric start. Sometimes called the ES.

Kickstart model: DRZ400 | Electric start model: DRZ400E

Sold in the US 2000-current

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Fork Springs, Race Tech

A pair of Race Tech fork springs to dial in your front suspension to suit your weight.

Fits all DRZ400 models with conventional forks (not for SM)

Recommended spring rates:

Gold Valves - Forks, Race Tech

• Race Tech's original bolt-on fork valving system for front cartridge forks
• Triple the flow area of pistons
• Put valving control on the shim stack
• Outstanding tunability; improved control, traction, plushness and bottoming resistance
• Complete instructions, Gold Valve pistons, valving charts, valving shims
• Technical Edge Fork Maintenance and Gold Valve Installation video all included

Fork Seal Kit

Low friction 'triple lip' seal design. Oil seals last 3-4 times longer that OEM seals. Kit includes Fork Seals and dust wipers.

Fork Boots, 69 Series

An excellent replacement for the stock fork boots. These are great for protection from dirt, rocks and other contaminants. These boots utilize the latest advances in material technology to adapt to fork and styling demands. These high quality fork boots are 1/4 the price of the OEM factory replacements. Choose black, blue, red or yellow.

Fork Seal Skins, Dirt Skins

Helps protect vulnerable fork tube and seal from dust, dirt, and corrosive elements. Hook & loop (Velcro) fastening on back side makes installation or removal for cleaning a breeze.

Shock Spring

Race Tech shock springs in a wide range of spring rates to dial in your rear suspension to suit your weight (stock spring is 5.3 kg/mm). Recommended spring rates:

Gold Valve - Shock, Race Tech

The Race Tech Gold Valve allows you to tune both compression and rebound valving for vastly improved performance.

• Bolt-on shock valving for riders serious about suspension performance
• Improves control, traction, plushness and bottoming resistance
• Improved, long-wearing, low-friction sealing design decreases fade
• Includes complete instructions

Shock Linkage Bearing Kit

Complete high quality kit to replace the bearing and seals in the DRZ400 shock linkage. Includes the lower shock bearing.

Shock Seal Head Kit

For a top notch rebuild or re-valve of your rear shock use this high quality replacement seal head.

• Complete assembly, ready to install into the shock body
• Has air bleed holes to help remove air from the oil reservoir during installation
• Double-lip oil seal design keeps out dirt and keeps friction low
• Kits include aluminum body, dust seal, bushing, oil seal, O-ring, internal guide bushing/washer, snap ring, and top-out bumper

Shock Shaft Bumper

Heavy duty shock bumper. The stock bumper is prone to disintegrating with age. If you are re-valving your shock it's a good idea to be sure the bumper is in good shape.

Swingarm Bearing Kit

Complete high quality kit to replace the bearing and seals in the DRZ400 swingarm pivot.

Lowering Links

Billet aluminum lowering links. Lowers the rear suspension.

Disclaimer: Lowering the front and/or rear of your motorcycle will change the geometry and may affect the handling, use caution after making changes/adjustments.

Lowering Links, Kouba

Lowers the rear suspension 0.75 inches. Precision machined from billet aluminum and gold anodized.

Motorcycle Suspension Bible, Race Tech

Based on the wildly popular Race Tech Suspension Seminars taught by Paul Thede around the world, this step-by-step guide shows riders how to make their bikes handle like the pros. Thede gives the lowdown on all types of suspension, including cartridge and non-cartridge forks as well as dual-chamber and nitrogen-charged shocks. The three forces of suspension, testing procedures, even the black arts of chassis geometry: Thede explains it all. The book provides step-by-step photos of suspension disassembly and assembly as well as a detailed troubleshooting guide for dirt, street and track.

Fork Seal Driver

Innovative design makes tool easier and more secure to use than old fashioned pin-aligned drivers

• Knurled anodized aluminum locking ring
• Perfectly weighted to drive seals
• Carbon steel body halves

Nitrogen Needle Tool

Showa removed the schrader valve on many newer rear shocks. Now you need a needle to recharge your shock with nitrogen after a rebuild. Race Tech built this unit just for that job.

Nitrogen Shock Gauge and Filler, Motion Pro

The features of this tool include 300 psi capacity, bleeder valve and T-handle plunger pin chuck. Swivel chuck has a 12" flexible hose. Comes complete with instructions, carrying box and Schrader valve extension (required on some Showa shocks). Nitrogen bottles available at any welding supply house.

Shock Linkage Bearing Grease Tool

Makes installation of your linkage bearings much easier. Also simplifies maintenance of those bearings.

• Allows placing bearing needles on bearing race while greasing linkage bearings

• DRZ400/E/S/SM

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DRZ400S - Suspension setup!

By DRZnorway , November 2, 2012 in DRZ400/E/S/SM

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My dizzer is definitely due for a suspension oil change, both front and rear.

I thought this would make for a great excuse to "have my suspension sorted". As is, my bike is completely stock in the handling compartment. I have 21/18 wheels , with distanzias front and rear. I'm looking for some 17"s that will mount up without to much effort, but that's another story ?

First of all, I ride on road only!

I tried riding the (soft+) stock setup, and quickly found out that it just doesn't cut it on road. I tried setting the sag, but it is still soft, waaay soft!

I have not touched the rebound or compression adjusters in the rear. It feels like the rear wants to wash out when exiting corners (WOT), like the spring is close to bottoming out.

I have the rebound and comp nearly maxxed out in the forks. I still feel that the front forks are way to soft when going hard into corners, and especially when braking hard. From what I have read on this forum, the best thing would be to have the forks and rear suspension revalved, the thing is, there is no shop anywhere near that I trust to this task (no designated bike shop anywhere near where i live).

-Street riding only

-Weight rider w/gear: 200 lbs, passenger occasionally (girlfriend 140lbs w/gear)

I don't know the exact stiffness on the OEM springs front and rear (clymer manual doesn't say)

What stiffness would you guys recommend as an alternative to the stock springs?

The rear spring is definitely the most pressing issue!

Some quick options I found while searching:

Suzuki DR-Z400 Eibach Fork Springs 0.48

Suzuki DR-Z400 Eibach Fork Springs 0.46

Suzuki DR-Z400S Eibach Shock Spring 6.1 kg/mm

Suzuki DR-Z400S Eibach Shock Spring 5.9 kg/mm

Suzuki DR-Z400S Eibach Shock Spring 5.1 kg/mm

Suzuki DR-Z400S Eibach Shock Spring 4.7 kg/mm

Thanks a million!

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Race Tech has a really nice suspension spring calculator online, they not only tell you what springs are stock but also what rate springs to consider going to. They also recommend a particular oil weight and if you should revalve. Of which, if you are only riding on the street then you can definitely stiffen up the suspension and even shorten the suspension to get it to handle better. The biggest most noticable improvement will be to install a set of 17's front and rear (used OEM 's if you can find them are best for quality vs. price), next would be to install stiffer springs, and then shorten the suspension and revalve. I personally would not bother with a heavier fork oil because it's a total crap shoot as to how much stiffer it'll be, and even then the front will be out of balance with the rear.

Do yourself a favor and revalve both ends at once, and have them install travel limiters all at the same time.

drzrobbcanuck

though a revalve and shorten is the best fix, for a quick fix, go to the 6.1kg/mm rear spring and a set of .50 or .52 kg/mm front springs, put in 10w fork oil, set your front damping at about 1/2 of total clicks both compression and rebound. In the rear, set your low speed compression damping about 3/4 of # of clicks in, your high speed full out, and your rebound 1/2 way. Set your race sag for about 60-80mm for both ends.

This will give you a stiff, controlled ride, without being too harsh, and will resist squatting on acceleration and braking far better than stock-but you still are using the wrong tool for the job-for street only, accelerating hard out of corners, go sm or sport bike. The drz can made to do it, and is a remarkably competent street bike, but will pitch a lot more than it should when pushed due to the long travel suspension.

though a revalve and shorten is the best fix, for a quick fix, go to the 6.1kg/mm rear spring and a set of .50 or .52 kg/mm front springs, put in 10w fork oil, set your front damping at about 1/2 of total clicks both compression and rebound. In the rear, set your low speed compression damping about 3/4 of # of clicks in, your high speed full out, and your rebound 1/2 way. Set your race sag for about 60-80mm for both ends. This will give you a stiff, controlled ride, without being too harsh, and will resist squatting on acceleration and braking far better than stock-but you still are using the wrong tool for the job-for street only, accelerating hard out of corners, go sm or sport bike. The drz can made to do it, and is a remarkably competent street bike, but will pitch a lot more than it should when pushed due to the long travel suspension.

This is the sort of answer I was looking for! I have ridden and owned sport bikes, and I know they are somewhat more capable when riding hard. I bought the dizzer for the flick-ability in tight sections (The countrysides in Northern Norway are packed with snake turns and 180 degree turn). I ran the stock DRZ on the same piece of road as I usually did with my sportbike, and I felt more confident with the supermoto, even though it's way to soft. I don't road race like some maniac, but I feel like I can keep my speed better through the turns with the DRZ (foot out towards the front feels more natural -> from bicycle riding. At least more so than knee out.)

As I already stated in my entry post, I have no means of revalving the suspension where I live, so I have to settle for the next best thing. I'll try the springs you suggested (+ fork oil), and work my way from there!

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