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Wine Religion Wine&Gastobar

Ratings and reviews, location and contact.

definitely a successful new project on the moscow culinary scene! not quite central, which is not a survival bonus and shows the ample challenge this place accepted. the not so big but in a cozy, contemporary touch presented wine bar has a very proper, complementary... chosen food menu. all mise en scene by very friendly crew, at not very "moscow" prices. wish all people involved in it, to keep this line for long time! More

Absolutely brilliant place in Moscow. The most refreshing choice of wine - you can choose your bottle off the shelf and have it on your table right in the bar or take it home with you. Elegant menu with lovely light dishes, which will not... overwhelm, but gently enhance, the wine experience... Most knowledgable and friendly staff. Highly recommended!!! More

I am out in Moscow on a regular basis trying many restaurants. This one opened by the ex sommelier of Kempinski Baltschug, is just perfect. Not over decorated as many places in this city that put surrounding over plate content. at Wine religion, the selection... of wine is perfect and far form being overpriced. you can pick your bottle at the entrance (sort of a wine shop) and just pay a corkage fee to take it to your table. the food is delicious ! they have a very talented young chef who is amazing ! if you haven't tried yet, definitely a place to go !!! My only dream being that they open another location closer to the center ! More

This is the perfect place for those who value high quality wine, tasty food that greatly matches the wine, and hearty atmosphere of those, who can enjoy all the above-mentioned. Come here, trust the sommelier and enjoy the ride! Not a cheapest one but worth... every spent rouble! A bit unusual for Ramenki district, but this even more makes it a jem! Worth a visit! More

I'm Russian, living in Moscow, but following to my nikc traveling TOO much :) Basically this is the only place I can recommend for Moscow's visitors for sure, having into account all my travel experience (wish to have the same fare recommendations at all the... cities/places where I'm traveling to). This is the best and only case, where a nice and cozy European atmosphere, meal and vine, successfully settled into the Russian ground. Do not scare about distance from the center, book the table in advance, meet the owner (Zhanna), and enjoy the best dinner you can have being in Moscow! More

This is a great place! The wine list is quite good, and there's quite a few dishes to go with your wine. The service is very descent (even though English is a challenge, the staff is so friendly and easy going that you'll find your... way). More

Maybe the best restaurant in town. The restaurant is very intimate. Great italian food and espeically great wine. For me the best italian food like in italy

Had a nice evening at this restaurant: pleasant atmosphere, very tasty food, good wine, nice service. A little bit expensive, but it was worth it.

The restaurant is cosy, just one page menu and wines occupying the shelves. The music selection is very aesthetic, the volume is extremely friendly. Large windows, well selected painting decorate the walls. You may not only enjoy the gourmet cousins, but buy a painting as... well. One of the best wine collection with a comparatively wide wine by glass offers. The food is excellent, waiters are friendly. Definitely must go! We live very nearby and while attending it the second time we really felt at home, head waitress greasing us as old friends do. More

friendly waiters and delicious meals. even no table, they make service when we are in queue. drinking outside while we are waiting is my favour

This restaurant has a short menu but food is really excellent, I have been there three times, tried meat, seafood, vegetables, everything was perfect and presented in some special style. Choice of wine is just great, and advice on the choice is always fair. Service... is very friendly and efficient. If we consider this as a wine bar type of place this is probably the greatest place in Moscow. location is somewhat remote from the center, but this place is definitely worth a visit. More

Very rare for Moscow : very good wine selection that you can choose in their boutique at a very affordable prices. In addition, food is good.

Although located off the beaten track of your regular pub crawlers the place is awash with trendy crowd on most evenings. Nice place for a dinner to impress your date as well as to enjoy a cosy bottle (or 2) of wine with a bunch... of old friends More

Ok, guys, just be reasonable here. It is no way the best restaurant in Moscow. Just calm down. Moscow is a huge city with lots of nice places to eat, this is being one of the many, but you need to be a way more... distinctive to earn the high No 1 title. That being off my to do list now, I would like to say, the place is very nice. It revolves around wine, of course. So, you first decide what you want to drink (and the wine selection is extensive and knowledgable, yet expensive-ish) and they will offer you some food to go with. Food is ok, on a creative side, but nothing extraordinary. Cheese place, chicken liver pate, salads, soups, nice bread platter - are all pleasant, but rather small and on an expensive side. Atmosphere? I believe it all depends on the people getting to eat in one place. Here the crowd is joyful and well behaved. Dates, girls get togethers, family anniversaries, after work relaxation - you can see all types of visitors. Nice to see people still eat out and enjoy life in this city. More

Following Tripadvisor rating (#1 out of 10330 restaurants in Moscow) we decided to check it out. Disappointed. Nothing special except of decent place being located in urban area. A very democratic Novikov's Barashka is better to me. Very poor access by car. One have to... walk few meters across snow if taxi drops you just opposite. Crowded by families with kids, which is what lot of middle class Europeans like (this is why so many good reviews). Families visibly feel good in there. Decent service, but nothing special. Guys and girls are pleasant enough. Paintings on walls, but 50% of restaurants in Moscow do have the same. Wine selection is not matching with a name of restaurant. It is good enough to find what you want, but name of restaurant sets very special expectations. Price for wine is about 500-1000 rubles LESS than in downtown located restaurants. Food is tasty, but selection is very limited. Manager (or the place owner) is speaking very good English and making people to say highly about the place, by asking how much they like to be there. It is nice, but what to expect: everyone will tell him only good words, of course. I'd go there again if it would be a walking distance from home. No other reasons. More

Wine Religion Wine&Gastobar, Moscow - District Western (ZAO) - Menu, Prices & Restaurant Reviews - Tripadvisor

• Service: 4.5
• Atmosphere: 4.5

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A guide to the must-visit wine bars of Italy, region by region

Well over 500 grape varieties are grown in Italy, and there are almost as many reasons why consuming wine in the bel paese is an unpretentious, everyday pleasure. Apart from the regional diversity, there’s the palpable sense of tradition and often astonishing value for money. Go to the source, though many vineyards and wineries require advance reservations for tastings or tours, or head to the bars, bottle shops and restaurants that elevate the daily glass – these ones are recommended by wine industry folk who know their vino Italiano.

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Where to drink wine in Piedmont

Ristorante Consorzio, Turin

“Consorzio is a beacon of light in a pretty conservative town,” says Dan Clark, owner of Italian-wine importer Addley Clark Fine Wines and 1889 Enoteca in Brisbane. This unfussy restaurant in Turin’s Quadrilatero Romano is celebrated for its forward-thinking wine selection (“they were listing Selosse, Valentini and other hands-off producers before anyone else was interested,” Clark says) and riffs on Piedmontese mainstays – think ravioli stuffed with finanziera. Animated service keeps the dinner-party vibe buoyant.

Via Monte di Pietà 23, 10122 Turin, +39 01 1276 7661, ristoranteconsorzio.it

Le Case Della Saracca, Monforte d’Alba

Making the steep ascent to this wine bar and restaurant, housed in a row of strikingly restored medieval homes in Monforte d’Alba’s oldest neighbourhood, is well worth the effort, suggests Mark Protheroe, former head sommelier at Guy Grossi’s Melbourne restaurants and owner of The Recreation in Fitzroy. “Giulio, the owner, is always keen to take you for a walk through his amazing cellar,” he says. “Once inside, you’ll find noteworthy Barolo vintages that date back several decades, from Giacomo Conterno and every other name that counts.”

Via Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour 3, 12065 Monforte d’Alba, +39 01 7378 9222, saracca.com

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Where to drink wine in Friuli-Venezia Giulia

La Subida, Cormons

For almost 60 years the Sirk family has been welcoming guests to their bucolic estate near the Slovenian border, featuring a casual osteria and the Michelin-starred Trattoria Al Cacciatore. “It’s all about appreciating that real warm and generous sense of rural hospitality,” says Italian-wine importer Piero Tantini, owner of Sydney’s Godot Wines. Drink to the rich tradition of skin-contact winemaking over a long lunch, or stay for the weekend and hire a Vespa for daytrips – Gravner, Ronchi Di Cialla and other stellar producers are a half-hour drive away. V

ia Subida 52, 34071 Cormons, +39 048 160 531, lasubida.it

Il Santino, Florence, Tuscany.

Where to drink wine in Tuscany

Il Santino, Florence

In lively Santo Spirito, Il Santino is “like Florence’s version of a Spanish tapas bar”, says Flavio Carnevale, owner-operator of Marta in Sydney. The intimate wine bar matches by-the-glass pours with equally considered stuzzichini for 10 euros or less, with a spotlight on Tuscan produce. “Their brilliant pairings give you a reason to keep trying new wines,” says Carnevale. Try tomato bruschetta with Il Palagione’s Vernaccia di San Gimignano, say, or Ciro Picariello’s aglianico with pecorino di Pienza and onion compote.

Via di Santo Spirito 60, 50125 Florence, +39 05 5230 2820, ilsantobevitore.com

Vini e Vecchi Sapori, Florence

Arrive with a booking – once the 18 seats are occupied, they’ll lock the doors. A handwritten menu of Tuscan hits – ribollita, pappardelle with duck ragù, chicken livers and white beans – changes daily, but always features an unapologetic warning: “No pizza. No bistecca. No ice. No takeaway. No cappuccino.” Wine is similarly straightforward, with just a handful by the glass and barely a white in sight. Two-fisted for some, but that’s why Mallory Wall, the longstanding maître d’ at Melbourne’s Café di Stasio, keeps returning. “Sometimes,” she says, “rules are good.”

Via dei Magazzini, 3r, 50122 Florence, +39 055 293 045

Osticcio Ristorante Enoteca, Montalcino

There are big-ticket bottles from Salon, Egon Müller, Alvaro Palacios and Robert Mondavi here, among the 900 or so labels. The focus, however, rests on hyper-regional reds. Should the staggering range of Brunello fail to impress, the likes of polenta gnocchi livened by leeks, miso and milk curds certainly will, likewise the panoramic views of the undulating Val d’Orcia. “Request a table at the rear, looking out at what could be Tuscany’s best picture window,” says Michael Trembath, general manager of Trembath & Taylor, an importer and distributor of Italian wines in Melbourne, “and you could be forgiven for almost not paying attention to anything else.”

Via Giacomo Matteotti 23, 53024 Montalcino, +39 05 7784 8056, osticcio.it

Where to drink wine in Trentino-Alto Adige

Ansitz Pillhof, Appiano

The best way to approach decision-making at this enchanting bottle shop, wine bar and restaurant is to “stay local and go for the full northern Italian experience”, says Lara Caraturo, director of the Italian Wine and Food Festival in Sydney and Melbourne. Take in the alpine views from a seat in the 15th-century manor’s leafy courtyard and start with mountain cheeses and salumi, perhaps, followed by chestnut risotto or roasted venison.

As for the wine, aim for the distinctive, fragrant whites and structured reds of Alto Adige. “Most are available by the glass, so you can really have some fun drinking,” says Caraturo.

Via Bolzano 48, 39057 Appiano Sulla Strada del Vino, +39 04 7163 3100, pillhof.com

Grotta Palazzese, Polignano a Mare, Puglia.

Where to drink wine in Puglia

Il Turacciolo, Andria

“Everything at this wine bar, set in the 18th-century Palazzo Ceci Ginistrelli, has a story,” says former wine importer and Puglia native Sabino Matera, “so allow host Luciano to take you on a gastronomic tour of the neighbouring countryside.” Puglia is synonymous with rich, fruit-forward reds, and Santa Lucia’s velvety Il Melograno nero di Troia and Cantele’s bold Teresa Manara negroamaro are fine examples of the format. They’re enhanced by grilled caciocavallo cheese made from Podolica cow’s milk, and copious shavings of Alta Murgia truffles.

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 4, 76123 Andria, +39 388 199 8889

Grotta Palazzese, Polignano a Mare

It’s pricey, true. But it’s difficult to conjure a more dramatic stage for drinking and dining than this naturally formed cave on the edge of the sea, tucked below the whitewashed town of Polignano a Mare, between Bari and Brindisi. “Sunset is the perfect excuse to hang out in the cliffside bar just before the restaurant,” says Matera. Settle in for a shared platter of antipasti di mare set to a soundtrack of crashing waves, best enjoyed with a bottle or three of Cantina d’Araprì’s brut spumante.

Via Narciso 59, 70044 Polignano a Mare, +39 080 424 0677, grottapalazzese.it

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Where to drink wine in Marche

Clandestino Susci Bar, Portonovo

Two pages of tightly edited, mostly white, wines. Moreno Cedroni’s masterful Italo-Japanese seafood mash-ups. And, of course, the outlook from the open windows onto the moody blues of the Adriatic. There’s lots to like about Clandestino – just 12 kilometres south-east of Ancona – which counts Oskar Rossi and Federica Andrisani, co-owners of Fico in Hobart, among its many fans. “It feels like everyone is on holiday, which creates a naturally relaxed atmosphere,” says Andrisani. Stay until twilight, when vertical vintages of verdicchio and house-packed tins of seafood make for magical aperitivi.

Località Portonovo, 60020 Ancona, +39 071 801 422, morenocedroni.it

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Where to drink in Abruzzo

Don Gennaro, Pescara

When a crowd begins to hover over the lone marble-topped table inside this landmark, century-old bottle shop the party spills out onto the streets in the historic heart of Pescara, Abruzzo’s biggest city. “This is one of my favourite places for aperitivo in the world,” says Giorgio De Maria, a Sydney-based wine importer and former GT Sommelier of the Year. “You always meet new people, you can buy house wines from the demijohn, bottles from Abruzzese legends or the fanciest Champagnes from the carefully stocked shelves, and the prices are all very, very fair.” If only all bottle shops were this much fun.

Via C. Battisti 116, 65100 Pescara, +39 085 442 9259

Where to drink wine in Emilia-Romagna

Osteria del Sole, Bologna

“Every day, you’ll find it packed with artists, writers, politicians, students and anybody who works in the neighbourhood,” says Flavio Carnevale. Bologna’s (and possibly Italy’s) oldest bar hasn’t changed much since 1465; the wine list is short, the prices rock-bottom, and there’s still no kitchen. “BYO food is the only way to eat,” says Carnevale, “so bring some of the country’s best mortadella from Salumeria Simoni a few doors down, and order a glass of house pignoletto frizzante, made especially for them.”

Vicolo Ranocchi 1, 40124 Bologna, +39 34 7968 0171, osteriadelsole.it

Where to drink wine in Sicily

Cave Ox, Solicchiata

“Cave Ox is nothing pretty to look at,” says Giovanni Paradiso, the co-owner of Sydney stalwarts 10 William Street and Fratelli Paradiso, of this modest pizzeria in the modest village of Solicchiata at the foot of Mount Etna, “but it represents the best of provincial Sicily.” On the plate, that translates as lardo, salami and prosciutto made from local black pigs, tomatoes grown in volcanic soil, seasonal wild weeds and local ricotta. In the cellar, owner Sandro Dibella catalogues “the history of the world’s great natural wines, including nearly every name in Etna and any other Sicilian wine worth drinking,” says Paradiso. It’s a favourite hangout for local winemakers, too – always a good sign.

Via Nazionale Solicchiata 159, 95012 Solicchiata, +39 094 298 6171, caveox.it

Antica Bottega del Vino, Verona, Veneto.

Where to drink wine in Veneto

Antica Bottega del Vino, Verona

“Simply a classic – and now that it’s owned by a number of Amarone producers, you can enjoy one of Veneto’s finest wines in depth,” says Michael Trembath. Operating since 1890, the storied venue trades 365 days a year from 11am until midnight, giving patrons plenty of time to absorb the cinematic, old-world surrounds while muscling through the hundred-plus page wine list and a chalkboard of trophied on-the-pour options (Château Cheval Blanc among them).

Via Scudo di Francia 3, 37121 Verona, +39 04 5800 4535, bottegavini.it

Al Timon, Venice

It doesn’t get more Venetian than a spot on a permanently moored boat on the canal outside this popular bàcari, with a plate of cicchetti and a glass of prosecco in hand. Trembath recommends arriving well before the golden hour. “They’re generally understaffed and overwhelmed by numbers here,” he says. “So have a few, and then head off on a bar crawl through the Cannaregio.” His tips further afield? 10 Metri Quadrati or Dodo Caffè for drinks, and dinner at Vini da Gigio.

Fondamenta dei Ormesini 2754, 30121 Venice, +39 04 1524 6066, altimon.it

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Where to drink wine in Lombardy

Rovello 18, Milan

The unbeatable combination of “simple, direct cooking” and “one of Italy’s best natural-wine lists” keeps this no-nonsense osteria in Milan’s well-heeled Brera district at the top of Giovanni Paradiso’s hit list. He recommends the spaghetti alla chitarra with chilli and Tropea onion or “probably the best cotoletta in town” with a bottle from what he describes as “a great cave of quintessential minimal-intervention winemaking throughout Italy and France”.

Via Tivoli 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 3709, rovello18.it

N’Ombra de Vin, Milan

Discerning oenophiles and young, creative types frequent this 16th-century former refectory, now one of Milan’s most popular enoteche, for sundowners in style. “Grab a mid-afternoon Spritz on the footpath and get absorbed into the aperitivo buzz,” says Mark Protheroe. “Once the sun starts to fade, head to the subterranean level and peruse the walls lined with a collection of over 600 listings that ventures deeply into all the regions of Italy.” While you’reat it, ask about the extensive program of wine tastings and live music.

Via San Marco 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 659 9650, nombradevin.it

Champagne Socialist, Milan

The only political stance taken at this industrial bolthole of a wine bar is a steadfast commitment to lo-fi wines from small, eclectic outfits across Europe – and the list stretches to 500 of them. Wine lovers with a penchant for dimmed lights and cramped quarters will find themselves right at home here. “It’s a place where I like to go later at night,” says Giorgio De Maria. Prices by the glass hover around five euros, which makes for an affordable jaunt through the unfined, unfiltered and unsulphured.

Via Lecco 1, 20124 Milan, +39 02 204 7295, socialist.wine

Il Goccetto, Rome, Lazio.

Where to drink wine in Lazio

Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto, Rome

The thoughtful wine offering at this fully realised vision of the ideal suburban trattoria unites classics with heroes (Radikon) and newcomers to the natural-wine scene (Lammidia) at affordable prices. In other words, it’s an invitation to go all-out, made all the more enticing by the pergola-shaded terrace, faultless fritti and impeccable primi. “When food is as simple as carbonara, you really have to nail it,” says Harry Levy, chef and co-owner of Sydney’s Don Peppino’s, “and Da Cesare always nails it.”

Via del Casaletto 45, 00151 Rome, +39 06 536 015, trattoriadacesare.it

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina, Rome

Roscioli is a name on just about everybody’s lips when it comes to essential places to eat and drink in the caput mundi. “It probably tops my list when considering both food and wine,” says Michela Boncagni, co-owner and head sommelier at LuMi in Sydney. “Ask for both the Italian and international wine lists,” she says, “and you might spend most of the meal picking your poison.” The deli-wine-bar-restaurant fills fast but takes bookings until 11.45pm. Make it a late one, and raise a Zalto glass to midnight snacking, Roman style.

Via dei Giubbonari 21/22, 00186 Rome, +39 06 687 5287, salumeriaroscioli.com

Il Goccetto, Rome

Don’t mistake this handsome enoteca for the Italian marijuana advocacy group of the same name – just know that the enthusiasm each has for its respective cause is particularly high. Here, dark wood panelling and frescoed ceilings frame wall-to-wall stacks of wine from a serious selection that runs about 800-strong. “There are plenty of smaller producers to look out for, as well as natural, organic and biodynamic options,” says Lara Caraturo. Switched-on staff help narrow it down, and a formidable cheese line-up pretty much ensures a second bottle is always on the cards.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, 00186 Rome, +39 066 864 268

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Wine Religion Wine&Gastobar

Ratings and reviews, location and contact.

definitely a successful new project on the moscow culinary scene! not quite central, which is not a survival bonus and shows the ample challenge this place accepted. the not so big but in a cozy, contemporary touch presented wine bar has a very proper, complementary... chosen food menu. all mise en scene by very friendly crew, at not very "moscow" prices. wish all people involved in it, to keep this line for long time! More

Absolutely brilliant place in Moscow. The most refreshing choice of wine - you can choose your bottle off the shelf and have it on your table right in the bar or take it home with you. Elegant menu with lovely light dishes, which will not... overwhelm, but gently enhance, the wine experience... Most knowledgable and friendly staff. Highly recommended!!! More

I am out in Moscow on a regular basis trying many restaurants. This one opened by the ex sommelier of Kempinski Baltschug, is just perfect. Not over decorated as many places in this city that put surrounding over plate content. at Wine religion, the selection... of wine is perfect and far form being overpriced. you can pick your bottle at the entrance (sort of a wine shop) and just pay a corkage fee to take it to your table. the food is delicious ! they have a very talented young chef who is amazing ! if you haven't tried yet, definitely a place to go !!! My only dream being that they open another location closer to the center ! More

This is the perfect place for those who value high quality wine, tasty food that greatly matches the wine, and hearty atmosphere of those, who can enjoy all the above-mentioned. Come here, trust the sommelier and enjoy the ride! Not a cheapest one but worth... every spent rouble! A bit unusual for Ramenki district, but this even more makes it a jem! Worth a visit! More

I'm Russian, living in Moscow, but following to my nikc traveling TOO much :) Basically this is the only place I can recommend for Moscow's visitors for sure, having into account all my travel experience (wish to have the same fare recommendations at all the... cities/places where I'm traveling to). This is the best and only case, where a nice and cozy European atmosphere, meal and vine, successfully settled into the Russian ground. Do not scare about distance from the center, book the table in advance, meet the owner (Zhanna), and enjoy the best dinner you can have being in Moscow! More

This is a great place! The wine list is quite good, and there's quite a few dishes to go with your wine. The service is very descent (even though English is a challenge, the staff is so friendly and easy going that you'll find your... way). More

Maybe the best restaurant in town. The restaurant is very intimate. Great italian food and espeically great wine. For me the best italian food like in italy

Had a nice evening at this restaurant: pleasant atmosphere, very tasty food, good wine, nice service. A little bit expensive, but it was worth it.

The restaurant is cosy, just one page menu and wines occupying the shelves. The music selection is very aesthetic, the volume is extremely friendly. Large windows, well selected painting decorate the walls. You may not only enjoy the gourmet cousins, but buy a painting as... well. One of the best wine collection with a comparatively wide wine by glass offers. The food is excellent, waiters are friendly. Definitely must go! We live very nearby and while attending it the second time we really felt at home, head waitress greasing us as old friends do. More

friendly waiters and delicious meals. even no table, they make service when we are in queue. drinking outside while we are waiting is my favour

This restaurant has a short menu but food is really excellent, I have been there three times, tried meat, seafood, vegetables, everything was perfect and presented in some special style. Choice of wine is just great, and advice on the choice is always fair. Service... is very friendly and efficient. If we consider this as a wine bar type of place this is probably the greatest place in Moscow. location is somewhat remote from the center, but this place is definitely worth a visit. More

Very rare for Moscow : very good wine selection that you can choose in their boutique at a very affordable prices. In addition, food is good.

Although located off the beaten track of your regular pub crawlers the place is awash with trendy crowd on most evenings. Nice place for a dinner to impress your date as well as to enjoy a cosy bottle (or 2) of wine with a bunch... of old friends More

Ok, guys, just be reasonable here. It is no way the best restaurant in Moscow. Just calm down. Moscow is a huge city with lots of nice places to eat, this is being one of the many, but you need to be a way more... distinctive to earn the high No 1 title. That being off my to do list now, I would like to say, the place is very nice. It revolves around wine, of course. So, you first decide what you want to drink (and the wine selection is extensive and knowledgable, yet expensive-ish) and they will offer you some food to go with. Food is ok, on a creative side, but nothing extraordinary. Cheese place, chicken liver pate, salads, soups, nice bread platter - are all pleasant, but rather small and on an expensive side. Atmosphere? I believe it all depends on the people getting to eat in one place. Here the crowd is joyful and well behaved. Dates, girls get togethers, family anniversaries, after work relaxation - you can see all types of visitors. Nice to see people still eat out and enjoy life in this city. More

Following Tripadvisor rating (#1 out of 10330 restaurants in Moscow) we decided to check it out. Disappointed. Nothing special except of decent place being located in urban area. A very democratic Novikov's Barashka is better to me. Very poor access by car. One have to... walk few meters across snow if taxi drops you just opposite. Crowded by families with kids, which is what lot of middle class Europeans like (this is why so many good reviews). Families visibly feel good in there. Decent service, but nothing special. Guys and girls are pleasant enough. Paintings on walls, but 50% of restaurants in Moscow do have the same. Wine selection is not matching with a name of restaurant. It is good enough to find what you want, but name of restaurant sets very special expectations. Price for wine is about 500-1000 rubles LESS than in downtown located restaurants. Food is tasty, but selection is very limited. Manager (or the place owner) is speaking very good English and making people to say highly about the place, by asking how much they like to be there. It is nice, but what to expect: everyone will tell him only good words, of course. I'd go there again if it would be a walking distance from home. No other reasons. More

WINE RELIGION WINE&GASTOBAR, Moscow - District Western (ZAO) - Menu, Prices & Restaurant Reviews - Tripadvisor

• Service: 4.5
• Atmosphere: 4.5

Kyoto guide: Restaurants, bars, hotels and things to do in Kyoto, Japan

L ast time I checked, pizza wasn’t part of a traditional kaiseki meal. And yet, as dinner at Monk crescendos with elegant wood-fired pies freighting fresh nori, the herbal mountain plant fukinoto and other seasonal Japanese ingredients, it feels like the most natural thing in the world. News that Italy’s most famous flatbread has infiltrated Japan’s most traditional meal is shocking enough. That this is happening in the country’s cultural ground zero is another level of scandalous again. But while the purists rage, others are excited about this new direction.

“Kyoto is the best place to open up a restaurant,” says Yoshihiro Imai, Monk’s chef-patron. A former pizza chef in Nagano, Imai relocated to Kyoto and opened Monk in 2015 where he serves highly seasonal, highly delicious modern kaiseki menus. “It has culture, it’s close to nature and locals are interested in new things. I could see that there was a new wave being driven by people that came here from other parts of Japan and wanted to be part of it.”

Although Kyoto is rich in culture, history and enlightenment – for more than a millennium, it was the Japanese capital – the city has always harboured a progressive bent. Kyoto bamboo helped Thomas Edison create the world’s first light bulb. The Kyoto Electric Railway company operated Japan’s first streetcar. Nintendo was born here. Tourists might flock to Kyoto for temples, tea ceremonies and cherry blossoms, but beyond the surface is a city that values the future as much as it does the past.

“Kyoto is dynamic, it’s moving” says Zenbu Tours’ Jane Lawson, a former cookbook publisher that moved to Kyoto in 2009 and now runs small group tours around Japan. “It’s a city of contrasts but it’s more obvious because there’s this amazing ancient culture and traditional buildings and gardens. We’re seeing a real effort to level up the experience and give visitors a deeper experience and understanding of Kyoto.”

From maverick restaurants to contemporary new hotels, these are some of the players helping define the new Kyoto. Here’s our guide to Kyoto, Japan.

Restaurants in Kyoto

Monk, Kyoto

Thick slices of kingfish, heady with smoke from the wood-fired oven. Charry knobs of sunchoke contrasted against luscious tufts of mozzarella. A shared bowl of carrots, blushing pink radishes and other organic Kyoto veg – bought every morning from the Ōhara farmers’ market – simply roasted and sharpened with salt. The aforementioned new-school pizza. All ways in which Yoshihiro Imai celebrates the season at Monk, his cosy 14-seat restaurant next to the Philosopher’s Path. Factor in a star turn on Netflix’s Chef’s Table and it’s not hard to understand why Monk is one of the old capital’s most in-demand tables. An essential if unexpected meal for the Kyoto-bound.

Saliccia, Kyoto

Also from the department of I-didn’t-see-that-coming is suburban deli, Salsiccia. During the week, Naoya Suzuki makes traditional and not-so-traditional fresh sausages (pork snags buzzing with sansho pepper, anyone?). On Saturdays and Sundays, he stays open for dinner and cooks the restaurant’s namesake alongside lasagne, trippa alla Romana and other Italian favourites while pouring vino naturale.

Ha Ra, Kyoto

New-wave cafés and bakeries are also actively unifying east and west. Instagram-friendly Ha Ra is as likable for its cosy aesthetic as it is a tight edit of polished brunch dishes including comforting eggplant lasagne and a meticulously built BLT. Hefty breakfast rolls crammed with thick bacon and a fluffy scrambled egg help explain the constant queues at fresh-faced new bakery.

Camphora Kitchen, Otokoyama

For those happy to travel for their daily bread, take the one-hour, two-train journey to Otokoyama where Camphora Kitchen awaits. In a past life, owner Rihito Maruhashi made croissants at Tokyo’s legendary Path and worked at London’s Lyle’s and E5 Bakehouse. Nowadays, he’s turning out sourdough, canelés and lemon tarts for clued-up eaters.

Taiho, Kyoto

Elsewhere, second-generation owners are proving you can teach old restaurants new tricks. At Taiho, Toshihiro and Satiko Watanabe have been serving high definition, nuanced Chinese food for almost half a century. While patriarch Toshihiro continues to hold it down in the kitchen, son Kouki manages the family’s organic farm in nearby Ayabe where he raises pigs and grows produce for the mothership. (Taiho’s slow-cooked pork with mustard leaves and black bean, plus crazy good dandan noodles, speak to Kouki’s interests in both provenance and Sichuan cookery.) Daughter Hiroko is a cheery presence on the floor and manages Taiho’s mighty natural wine list.

Sobatsuru, Kyoto

Sobatsuru, a homely soba joint in the Sakyo neighbourhood, is another must. After taking over from their late parents, brothers Shigeto and Hideo Isada and sister Masako have bolstered Sobatsuru’s soba offering with otsumami (drinking snacks) of real finesse. Think roasted gingko nuts, slices of karasumi (dried mullet roe) sandwiched between clouds of grilled mochi, and tempura-fried uni.

Kyoto accommodation

Ace Hotel Kyoto

Located near popular Nishiki Market, 213-room Ace Hotel Kyoto (rooms start from $479) embodies the city’s optimism and cosmopolitan spirit. Fabrics have been designed exclusively for the hotel by Tokyo fashion label Minä Perhonen; handsome timber furnishings are a recurring feature and in-room turntables plus colourful pieces from centenarian folk artist Samiro Yunoki come standard-issue. In classic Ace style, the communal lobby boasting textiles, twinkling copper lights and Japan’s first Stumptown Coffee Roasters outpost is the hotel’s hub and heart. While service exemplifies the Japanese ethos of omotenashi – my memory of a staff member stopping vacuuming so I could wait for the elevator in silence one afternoon won’t be soon forgotten – the hotel’s F&B leans into Ace’s American heritage. Los Angeleno Wes Avila of Guerrilla Tacos fame is behind mezzanine lounge and taco bar Piopiko , while Mr Maurice’s Italian – a project from Philadelphian chef Marc Vetri – deals in chicken saltimbocca, biscuity pizzas and red-sauce hits.

The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto

A flawless stay is almost guaranteed with a stay at the Ritz-Carlton in Kyoto. Enjoy views of the Higashiyama Mountains or the Kamo River in any of the 134 rooms, all featuring Diptyique bath amenities, 24-hour in-room dining, and complimentary bathrobes and slippers. Guests are welcomed with a traditional tea ceremony at check-in, in a lobby where the first of 409 pieces of modern Japanese artwork are on display. Enjoy in-house dining at Michelin-starred Tempura Mizuki for a traditional kaiseki experience, or slant slightly left-of-centre at La Locanda , a cosy Italian diner. With state-of-the-art spa facilities and a 24-hour fitness centre, a stay at the Ritz-Carlton Kyoto is the perfect blend of tradition and comfort.

Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto

Located a seven-minute drive from Kyoto Station, the Four Seasons Hotel is a little slice of modern luxury hidden amongst the cultural delights abound in Kyoto’s centre. Each room at the Four Seasons offers a panoramic view of the city, as well as an iPad with access to hotel services and a flat screen television. In-house restaurant Brasserie features a menu derived from local producers, and overlooks the serene Shakusuien pond garden. Guests are also encouraged to access onsite spa facilities, including saunas, steam rooms, and local-favourite open air baths.

Things to do in Kyoto

Hire a bike

Pro-tip: hire a bicycle. Flat, laid out in a grid and cyclist-friendly – even the one-way streets have bike lanes in both directions – Kyoto is a terrific city to ride around. Bike hire is cheap and lets you see more of the city faster while also earning all-important food and drink credits. Drop into Kurasu to buy coffee equipment plus a bike map detailing the city’s cafés of note.

Visit Kyoto art galleries and museums

The success of the recent Andy Warhol retrospective at the Kyocera Museum of Art underscores the value of art to Kyoto (and, indeed, Japan as a whole) while the collection at the National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto includes key Japanese and foreign pieces. The Kyoto International Manga Museum is your chance to go deep into this modern-day Japanese phenomenon.

Go shopping in Kyoto

Ethelvine is your best bet for tracking down hard-to-find local and European natural wines, while the shopping arcades on Shinkyogoku and Teramachi streets and their surrounds cover everything from top-dollar designer fashion to sticker shops.

Where to drink in Kyoto

KYOTO CAFÉS

Weekenders Coffee, Kyoto

Kyoto might be synonymous with tea, but the city takes its coffee seriously. Opened in 2005 by Ayumi and Masahiro Kaneko, Weekenders Coffee was one of the prefecture’s third-wave coffee pioneers. Today, the Kanekos run their own roastery plus a charming café in a converted machiya (traditional wooden townhouse) complete with beautiful niwa (Japanese garden) and machiai (waiting bench). An unexpected location behind a parking lot adds to Weekenders’ must-do reputation.

Wife & Husband, Kyoto

Coffee at Wife & Husband is another unhurried pleasure, both in the way it’s made as well as how it’s enjoyed. In addition to relaxing in the snug, converted house, guests can also hire picnic baskets, chairs and tables to spend the morning picnicking at the nearby Kamo River.

Yoramu, Kyoto

Traditionally, sake is meant to be an unobtrusive accompaniment to food. Yoram Ofer, owner of sake bar Yoramu, wants to detonate that idea, as proven by his selection of bold sakes that are anything but retiring. From outré styles bottled by tiny breweries to Ofer’s own cellared sake experiments, Yoramu celebrates the diversity and potential of rice, water, yeast and koji. Otherwise, the banks of the Takase River canal remain a bar-hopper’s paradise.

Rokudenashi

Barnacled by decades of gig posters and cigarette smoke, Jazz in Rokudenashi is the divey, late-night jazz bar of your whisky highball and Blue Note LP dreams.

Hachi Record Shop

It might be a more recent arrival, but Hachi Record Shop and Bar is underpinned by a similar love of music. On the night we visit, a Japanese-Balinese DJ spins rare Indonesian funk-rock while drinkers lay waste to local craft beer and ochoko cups of cloudy nigori sake. It was a picture that captured the pleasures and possibilities of modern-day Kyoto.

Getting to Kyoto: From within Japan, Kyoto is best accessed via bullet train (Shinkansen). The journey is just over two hours from Tokyo or 15 minutes from Osaka. jrailpass.com

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