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Home > Street Art Paris 13: Butte aux Cailles & the Mural Program

Street Art Paris 13: Butte aux Cailles & the Mural Program

Did you know that Paris is home to some of the most exciting street art in Europe – even the world?

One of our favorite Street Art Paris district (by quantity and quality) is Paris 13 . Traditionally a ‘grey neighborhood,’ Paris 13 is today in continuous transformation. Its once characteristic ugly towers or streets without any charm are now highlighted thanks to street artists from around the world.

The great culprit of the Paris 13 District’s transformation is its mayor, Jérome Coumet , and his team. The socialist at the head of Mairie Paris 13 since 2007 is especially interested in street art. With this spirit and enthusiasm, Paris 13 is using Street Art to heal its image and attract young people proposing to them a cool neighborhood to live in.

Street Art in Paris 13 – Main Locations

Paris 13 is a huge district with different areas and atmospheres. Fortunately for us, Street Artworks are concentrated in three main areas:

BUTTE AUX CAILLES

This calm and picturesque quarter combines pretty cobblestone lanes with interesting graffiti Street Art.

A Street Art stroll around Butte aux Cailles is a fun way to discover this quarter while following talented artists. Butte aux Cailles is also an excellent place for a drink or a nice dinner, especially when the weather is good and you can sit outdoors.

LES FRIGOS (THE FRIDGES)

This huge hangar with many refrigerated rooms was built after WW1 to stock all the products transported by train from the countryside to Paris before going to the different Parisian markets. Abandoned since the sixties, in 1980, the SNCF (the French National railway company) rented out parts of the warehouse to artisans and artists.

Today Les Frigos hosts 87 workshops in a very special atmosphere. The frigos’ external walls (but also inside) are covered with interesting graffiti street art.

THE GIANT MURAL PROGRAM

Paris 13 managed to attire famous street artists doing high-quality giant murals which cover some huge buildings without character. When street artists have permission and don’t need to hide from the police, they can do something wonderful. They can take their time and make it great. And actually, that’s what happened in Paris 13 with the city council’s support.

Best Street Art in Butte aux Cailles

Closest Metro Stations: Corvissart, L6 or Tolbiac, L7

This quarter has a very charming countryside atmosphere. The street artworks here are small, a scale that fits very well to its narrow and winding lanes. The most famous street artists in Butte Aux Cailles are Miss Tic and Jef Aerosol, both French artists.

Miss Tic Street Art has literally invaded the quarter with her B&W graffiti, always expressing her ideas through poems and wordplay. What we like from Miss Tic is the wordplay in her work, but if you don’t speak French, maybe you will appreciate her work less.

• 1- Alerte à la bombe by Miss Tic – rue des Cinq-Diamants /rue Butte aux Cailles
• 2- Un homme peut en cacher un autre by Miss Tic – 30 rue des Cinq-Diamants
• 3- Je ne brise pas que les coeurs by Miss Tic – 27 rue des Cinq-Diamants

Jef Aerosol also works in B&W. He has created many portraits of famous people like Elvis or Gandhi. Still, the main part of his work is dedicated to the anonymous people on the streets: musicians, beggars, children playing… It is very easy to recognize Jef Aerosol’s work because he always signs with red arrows.

• 4- La musique adoucit les murs by Jef Aerosol – 21 rue des Cinq-Diamants
• 5- Baisers by Zaira – 44 rue des Cinq-Diamants
• 6- Lézarts de la bièvre by Jana & JS – 2 rue de l’Espérance

Best Giant Murals in Paris 13

Closest Metro Stations: Nationale and Chevaleret, L6 /Porte d’Italie and Porte de Choisy, L7

Huge murals by famous street artists worldwide have invaded the biggest avenues in Paris 13, and now street art is part of the landscape.

Some people define Boulevard Vincent Auriol as ‘the Champs Elysées of Street Art.’ Along this wide avenue crossed by the metro and its surroundings, it’s where you can find most of these giant murals. The cool thing about Boulevard Vincent Auriol is that the metro (L6) rides by so you can see these murals from different points of view. Other interesting murals are located between Avenue de Choisy and Avenue d’Italie .

The main authors of these giant murals are Sainer  and M-City (Poland), Vhils (Portugal), Kislow (Ukrania) OBEY (US), Inti, Maher, and Aner, (Chile), Ethos (Brazil), ZED (Tunisia + Morocco) and Jana & JS (France-Germany).

France is represented by Seth Street Art, Babs, Rero, SteW, and C215. C215 is one of our favorite French street artists, his work consists mainly of close-up portraits of people usually forgotten by our society: beggars, homeless people, refugees, street kids… He also likes to feature cats and his daughter Nina. He has a very defined style and you can also recognize his work by his signature, a dice with C215 inside.

Boulevard Vincent Auriol Self-Guided Walking Tour

This is only a selection of what you can see in this area. If you follow this walking tour, you will find along your way other murals and graffiti. This area is full of nice surprises!

• A- Inti (Chile) – 81 Boulevard Vincent Auriol
• B- ? – 120 Boulevard Vincent Auriol
• C- C215 (France) – 141 Boulevard Vincent Auriol
• D- OBEY (US) – 93 rue Jeanne d’Arc
• E- Seth (France) – 110 rue Jeanne d’Arc
• F- Jana & JS (Germany and France) -110 rue Jeanne d’Arc
• G- Inti (Chile) – 13 rue Lahire

Avenue de Choisy /Avenue d’Italie Self-Guided Walking Tour

• H- Inti (Chile) – 129 Avenue d’Italie
• I- Pantónio (Portugal) – Avenue de Choisy / Place de Vénétie
• J- Stew (France) – Place de Vénétie

Other Interesting Street Art in Paris 13

The following street artworks are located outside the above-mentioned areas, but some of them are so beautiful that they are worth a detour.

• K- Seth – 2 rue Emile Deslandres; M. Les Gobelins, L7; Velib Station #13.005
• L- Danse de la fontaine émergente by Chen Zhen (China) – Place Augusta Holmes; M. Quai de la Gare, L6; Velib Station #13.020
• M- Blowin by c215 (France) – Entrance Hall Hospital Pitié – Salpêtrière, 83 Boulevard de l’hôpital; M. St Marcel, L5; Velib Station #13.103

And there you have it, the best street artworks in Paris13 and where to find them. Have you seen any of our favorites?

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Quirky parisian explorers with a preference for lesser-known sights, we are continuously looking for new ideas and tips to bring you the best of the city of light read more about us ., we’re elisa, norbert, valérie, and cédric, four travel bloggers and friends living in paris. quirky explorers with a preference for the local side of our city and its lesser-known sights, we are continuously looking for new ideas to enjoy the best of paris & around . do you want to go beyond the louvre museum or the eiffel tower keep clicking for first-hand information & our best tips learn more about us.

Discover the history, location and creators of street art.

The movement, a look at the rise of contemporary street art, how did it all start, from style writing to art, graffiti 101, the different styles to look out for, graffiti general, tedx street art, watch talks from street artists around the world, the big ideas behind the work, every street artist has a story to tell., street art + community, how street art shapes neighbourhoods, people and landscapes, city of philadelphia mural arts program: first 30 years, city of philadelphia mural arts program, open air museum in la pincoya, museo a cielo abierto en la pincoya, museum of public art, coachella walls: the anonymous farm worker, coachella walls, the red line d.c. project, city shadows | play the cave, mahatat for contemporary art, spotlight on: la tour paris 13, the transformation of an abandoned building, tour paris 13 - floors 1 & 2, tour paris 13 - floors 3 & 4, tour paris 13 - étages 5 & 6, tour paris 13 - étages 7 & 8, tour paris 13 - etage 9 et cave, street art for all ages, graffiti that breaks stereotypes, urban art workshop for seniors, a project by wool, activism and expression, how street art is used to raise awareness, the water tank project, the water tank project: a virtual walking tour, crossing borders / crossing boundaries, street art museum, stencil art & activism, graffitimundo, millerntor gallery #4, viva con agua de sankt pauli, berlin wall graffiti, the legacy of one of the world's largest canvasses, east side gallery, behind the wall, the wall project, artists to discover, eduardo kobra, urban forms gallery, mark jenkins, positive-propaganda e.v., street art london, dallas contemporary, 9eme concept, positive-propaganda x aryz, belin "off the wall" museum exhibit, museum of street art, killingwithcuteness, filipino street art project, spotlight on: banksy, banksy, banksy & more banksy, beyond banksy: not another gift shop, banksy rats & more, women's forum street art project, meet the women behind the walls, "she's a leader" from germany: madc, "she is a leader" from france: kashink, "she's a leader" from the us: stephanie rond, "she is a leader" from greece: olga alexopoulou, "she is a leader" from the uk: elno, "she's a leader" from south africa: ello, "she is a leader" from kuwait: zahra al mahdi, "she is a leader" from france: yz, "she's a leader" from russia: zoya, "she is leader" from argentina: milu correch, "she is a leader" from portugal: mariana dias coutinho, the colors of street art, the locations, see street art in 360°, explore by city, netherlands, united states, united kingdom, philippines, spotlight on: bueno aires, a grafitti and street art capital, villa urquiza and coghlan art district, buenos aires, buenos aires graffiti, institutionalization of underground art, the talking walls of buenos aires, buenos aires - a graffiti and street art capital, the festivals, when artists come together to create public art around the world, italy - emergence, ukraine - re$publica, respublica street art festival., sweden - artscape, hawaii - pow wow 2014, pow wow hawaii, thailand - bukruk, bukruk international street art festival, rio - street biennale, sweden- no limit, no limit street art borås, bratislava street art festival, covilhã urban art festival, wool | covilhã urban art festival, russia - stenograffia, stenograffia, taiwan - pow wow 2014, sydenham street art festival, global street art foundation, urban forms gallery 2014, 2015 katowice street art festival, katowice the city of gardens, st+art 2014, mumbai : bandra, st+art india, muro lx_2016 urban art festival, galeria de arte urbana, discover more, online exhibits, photos and artwork, collections, street views.

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Street art tour: the murals of Paris’s 13th arrondissement

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Take a  street art tour in the south of Paris  and discover murals and graffiti painted by renowned international artists including Obey, Inti, C215, and Seth.

• Location :   Place d'Italie - Quartier Chinois
• Duration :   2.5 hours
• Access by Public Transport :   Place d'Italie metro station( Lines 5, 6 and 7)
• Language :   English

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Description

Commissioned by the City Council, some of the biggest names on the French and international street art scene have been invited to express their talent on the walls of Paris’s   13th arrondissement.  This guided walk takes you on a tour of the huge murals and frescoes painted on the sides of buildings in the area around the Place d’Italie and the surprisingly village-like neighbourhood of the Butte aux Cailles . Showcasing work by  Obey, Inti  and  C215 among others, this whole area has become an extraordinary and ever-changing open-air museum dedicated to street art and neo-muralism. Fresh Street Art Paris is the organiser of this visit. Fresh Street Art Paris is an agency specialized in cultural and event mediation about street art and will provide you the best description of these Parisian murals

This guided tour is conducted in English.

More street art guided tours in Paris all year long.

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Tour 13 Paris: The Ephemeral Nature of Street Art

by Meredith Mullins on April 9, 2014

The beginning of the demolition of B Toy’s work at the Tour 13 © Galerie Itinerrance

The Long-Awaited Demolition: The Walls Come Tumbling Down

Art is fleeting. It lives for the moment.

Sometimes the artist, like Claude Monet in his later years, punctures holes in his paintings because he doubts himself. The work is destroyed before it’s ever seen.

Sometimes the life cycle of artistic expression is determined by the whim of contemporary tastes.

Sometimes an artist, like sculptor Andy Goldsworthy, creates the work to purposefully evolve over time, with nature as a collaborator. Stones are smoothed by water. Ice melts. Wood rots. Leaves wither. Life. Decay. Death. A natural cycle.

Sometimes the act of destruction is part of the work itself.

Street art, by its very nature, is ephemeral. Graffiti artists make transience their creed. They work quickly, often stealthily.

Their art and tags get painted over in days (or even hours!) They don’t get attached. They speak to the moment and move on.

These truths were the foundation for the  Tour 13  in Paris.

The wild stampeding rabbits by Pantonio from Portugal.  Photo © Meredith Mullins

The Birth and Death of the Tour 13

Last year, more than 100 graffiti artists from around the world were gathered together by Mehdi Ben Cheikh of the Galerie Itinerrance in Paris and were given freedom of expression in a building targeted for demolition. OIC covered the event in its  October story.

The original artwork on the 8th floor of the Tour 13 © Meredith Mullins

As the artists took over the 36 multi-room apartments and a labyrinth of basements—and painted everything from closets to kitchens to toilets to radiators, to say whatever they wanted however they wanted—the last act of the story was already written. The art would not last.

What’s left after the first phase of demolition © Galerie Itinerrance

Everyone knew the dilapidated building would be destroyed. The community of artists, who worked for free, knew it. The 25,000 visitors, who waited in line for up to 13 hours to see the amazing installation, knew it. The nearly half a million visitors to the social media sites knew it.

So, it is no surprise this week that the walls will come tumbling down, the final part of the demolition.

The destruction of the building (and the art) was part of the plan. © Meredith Mullins

The Demolition

It is not so much a “tumbling” as it is a “nibbling.” To create an experience unlike any other, a crane will snack on the remaining exterior walls little by little, revealing the interior walls, floors, and ceilings for one final look. A retrospective of the most unusual kind.

The “nibbler” © Pamela Fickes-Miller

The art that was once on the closets, bathtubs, radiators, sinks, and windows has already been destroyed. The windows have been knocked out. Piles of rubble inside and outside the building, with chunks of bright color, reveal hints of that progress.

Remnants of artistic expression in the rubble © Meredith Mullins

Oh I see. There is no sadness in saying goodbye. This is life, as street art.

The work of Iranian street artist A1one after the first phase of demolition. © Galerie Itinerrance

For the Iranian artist A1one, the art was so fleeting, he didn’t even have time to finish his room last year when he was in Paris. Then, he lost touch with the tower’s unfolding story. Now that he has heard about the destruction, he speaks with the heart of a true street artist:

“Cool. I didn’t know it was being destroyed. I like it when my works fall down. I hope we learn from it. Huge things can easily fall down in a glance.”

Mehdi Ben Cheikh feels the same about this final stage. “I’m glad of it,” he says with no nostalgia. “It’s part of the project—the ephemeral nature of street art.”

Mehdi Ben Cheikh—Street Art Crusader © Meredith Mullins

However, Mehdi—always a street-art crusader—has an eye toward the future of this kind of artistic expression.

“As with any great art movement, institutions are always one step behind,” Mehdi says. “They offer so little exposure to street art, even though it surrounds us in urban life. Although this project is at an end, it opens the door to new projects about to happen.”

Out of the rubble . . . who knows what will emerge.

What we do know, however, is that long after the Tour 13 is gone, it will be remembered.

A hint of Pantonio’s rabbits (alive and well) in the neighborhood © Meredith Mullins

The “nibbling” is taking place this week and will be shown via  live camera  on the Tour 13 website, on the  Tour 13 Facebook  page, and on French television and on YouTube.

Thank you to  Elsa Courtois and Mehdi Ben Cheikh of Galerie Itinerrance and Pamela Fickes-Miller for contributing to this story.

Au revoir Tour 13 © Meredith Mullins

Comment   on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment  here .

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Meredith Mullins 2 Comments

France (Paris) / The World's Art & Design

  Comments:

2 thoughts on “ tour 13 paris: the ephemeral nature of street art ”.

Your story is a great tribute to this historical artistic expression. I am proud to be a small part of it. Thank you for including me.

Thank you, Pam. The experience has been unique from the start. And, thank you for showing the “nibbler” in all its dusty glory.

Vive Street Art!

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Street-Art guided tour in Paris 13th arrondissement

Offered by :

Jean-Baptiste et son équipe

Paris 13th district (75)

• 1 hour 30 minutes
• Up to 20 people
• For the 6-99 years old

You can cancel free of charge up to 48h before the date of the activity.

Gift card valid for 12 months, free exchange

Activity description :

Street art, or urban art, is an artistic movement that emerged in the 60s and encompasses all forms of art created in public places. An ephemeral, sometimes committed art form, street artists use a variety of techniques, including stencils, graffiti and billboards. With a strong presence in capitals such as Berlin, street art has been gradually developing over the years in Paris, with the support of the public authorities.

Your visit: street art in the 13th arrondissement

Guided tour - 1h30 - Distance covered: 2 km - Outdoor

Recently, metro users have been lucky enough to see a number of frescoes blossoming along line 6 . These creations are the work of internationally renowned artists and collectives. This is the result of a desire on the part of the public authorities and the mayor of the 13th arrondissement to promote Street-Art along the buildings in this district.

Tour highlights :

• Discover the new hub of Parisian Street Art
• Monumental frescoes that sublimate the district
• Explore the 13th arrondissement from a new and original angle!

Discover the impressive immensity of these colorful frescoes as you stroll through this less-touristy arrondissement, and don't forget to keep your eyes fixed on the sky to admire them!

Price / person - From age 12

Children's rate

Price / person - Up to and including age 11

Group rate for 3 to 4 people

Price per person

Group rate for 5 to 6 people

Group rates for 7 people or more

4,9 (29 reviews)

Our reviews come exclusively from customers who bought this activity These comments have been automatically translated

It's a lovely walk that we'd love to make even longer!

25 mar 2024

Very nice guided tour of various recent works. The guide was friendly and very available to answer our questions. In 1h30, we only saw part of the works in Paris 13, now we have to try the "Street art" tour of Butte aux Cailles.

Very nice walk in the 13th district (Boulevard Auriol, Rue Jeanne d'Arc ... ) with a fascinating guide. Just look up and you'll see: C215, INTI, Shepard Fairey , D*Face, Seth, Invader, Jana & JS ...

22 jun 2023

Pleasant service, very nice discovery

26 mar 2023

A great experience, a very friendly and knowledgeable guide ☺️ I recommend it with my eyes closed.

Address: 3 place Pinel, 75013 Paris How to get there : - Metro 6 : Nationale

Know before you go

• Guaranteed departure for the first participant.
• Please arrive at the meeting point 10 minutes before the tour begins.
• Your guide will be waiting for you at the meeting point with a sign.
• Distance covered: approx. 2 km.
• Minors may not join the tour unless accompanied by an adult, who is responsible for any minors he or she accompanies.
• The guide may decide to postpone the tour if conditions do not allow it to run smoothly.
• Please bring weather-appropriate clothing.

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Street art walking tour in the 13th arrondissement

Spotlight on the huge murals that have transformed the 13th arrondissement into an open-air museum. The 13th arrondissement in the southern part of Paris is peppered with street art. In the 1960s, artists wanting to beautify their surroundings began painting murals on the façades of buildings in this industrial district. In recent years, thanks to backing from the 13th arrondissement town hall and local art galleries, some parts of the district have metamorphosed into veritable open-air museums. There are up to 26 giant works in Boulevard Vincent Auriol alone. In 2013, the district’s Tour Paris 13 initiative became a talking point: a building earmarked for demolition was painted from top to toe by street artists and opened to the public for a month before being torn down. This self-guided tour takes in some of the area’s most noteworthy artworks.

Street Art Paris 13 – Walking Through The Skies Of Paris

Arrondissement 13 – A Mecca for Street Art connoisseurs

Read the ultimate guide to street art in the 13th district of Paris. A true Mecca for street art connoisseurs, this neighborhood surely doesn’t disappoint. Monumental, large-scale murals are awaiting you – among them the two largest murals in Europe. All the giants have left their mark here: Obey, Invader, Inti, C215, Seth Globepainter, Jace, FAILE, Reka One, Kashink, Borondo, David de la Mano, Tristan Eaton, and many more. The list reads like the who is who of the graffiti world. Street Art Paris 13 is the absolute center of the street art universe! What you don’t find here, you won’t find anywhere else. An extraterrestrial experience…

Street Art Paris 13 • A Map

Artists & Locations

David de le Mano – 3 Rue Jenner (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: David de la Mano

Location: 3 rue jenner (street art paris 13).

A myriad of tiny little dancing creatures all float towards the densening silhouette of a pitch-black human face. On zooming in, one can discern the miniature details that Spanish street artist David de la Mano has provided his driven brain-children with: Some possess animal heads, a few sport Pinocchio-esque noses, others wear conic hats or balance bird cages on their heads, and others again have claws instead of hands. That everything is held in an entirely monochromatic style goes without saying. Working exclusively with black-and-white images has become de la Mano’s unique artistic signature. Through his shrewd poetic imagery de la Mano often dwells on themes that concern society and the state of mankind.

To find out more about David de la Mano, the person and his art, visit:

Website: http://daviddelamano.blogspot.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/daviddelaman

Twitter: https://twitter.com/daviddelamano

1) C215 – 141 Boulevard Vincent Auriol (Street Art Paris 13)

2) C215 – Quai d’Austerlitz, opposite house nb. 3 (Street Art Paris 13)

3) C215 – Corner of Rue Raymond Aron & Quai Francois Mauriac (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: C215

Locations:          , 1) 141 boulevard vincent auriol (street art paris 13), 2) quai d’austerlitz, opposite house nb. 3 (street art paris 13), 3) corner of rue raymond aron & quai francois mauriac (street art paris 13).

French street artist Christian Guémy, who popularly goes under the pseudonym C215, is best known for his artistic renditions of the outcasts or less-fortunate of society. Portraits of refugees, beggars, senior citizens, immigrants, homeless people, street children; all those marginalized by our dog-eat-dog world are brought back into the artist’s spotlight as if to remind society of its responsibility to recognize them and to deal with the problems of a socially-torn community. While Guémy is primarily noted for his adept use of stencils, one of his most famous artworks in the city of Paris is a mural of a gigantic, innocent cat overlooking the busy traffic on Boulevard Vincent Auriol. Whether the neighborhood has opened their homes for C215’s straying cat is unknown, but it sure has found a place inside our heart.

Learn more about C215 here:

Website: https://c215.fr/C215/HOME.html

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/c215stencils

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/christianguemy/

1) Seth Globepainter – 2 Rue Emile Deslandres (Street Art Paris 13)

2) Seth Globepainter – 112 Rue Jeanne d’Arc (Street Art Paris 13)

3) Seth Globepainter – 29 Rue des Cordelieres (Street Art Paris 13)

4) Seth Globepainter – Corner of Rue du Loiret & Rue Regnault (Street Art Paris 13)

5) Seth Globepainter – Corner of Rue de Julienne & Boulevard Arago (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Seth Globepainter

1) 2 rue emile deslandres (street art paris 13), 2) 112 rue jeanne d’arc (street art paris 13), 3) 29 rue des cordelieres (street art paris 13), 4) corner of rue du loiret & rue regnault (street art paris 13), 5) corner of rue de julienne & boulevard arago (street art paris 13).

One of my favorite street artists of all time is Seth Globepainter, whose actual name is Julien Malland. Seth always seems to carry rainbows in his pockets, as his murals are virtually dripping with color and vibrancy. Almost all of Seth’s characters bear a dreamlike, cartoon-style signature and in most of his artworks one will not be able to see his characters’ faces. They always disappear into colorful clouds or face the other way. Despite all the positivity created by the abundant use of colors, one therefore cannot help but notice a certain quality of wistfulness or melancholy about Seth’s murals.

Take for example the magnificent mural of the slender girl sitting in a colorful, upside-down turned umbrella: She is floating amidst a vast sea of gray umbrellas, above her colorful flying fish under a full moon. Her posture is crouched, the girl being in the non-color of gray as well. Is this a girl living in an anonymous, faceless world? A girl who dwells among a faceless mass of other gray human beings who have lost their touch with the colorful magic of mother nature (represented by the colorful flying fish and the tiny gecko sitting next to the girl)? Where does she look so yearningly?

However, as long there is color, there is hope, right?! After all, the literary character of Momo (from Michael Ende’s famous fantasy novel of the same title) also triumphs against the faceless assembly of The Men in Grey at the end…

Follow the latest news about Seth Globepainter’s art here:

Website: http://seth.fr

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/globe.painter

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/seth_globepainter

1) Obey – 93 Rue Jeanne d’Arc (Street Art Paris 13)

2) Obey – Corner of Rue Nationale & Boulevard Vincent Auriol (Street Art Paris 13)

3) Obey – 60 Rue Jeanne d’Arc (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Obey

1) 93 rue jeanne d’arc (street art paris 13), 2) corner of rue nationale & boulevard vincent auriol (street art paris 13), 3) 60 rue jeanne d’arc (street art paris 13).

Another heavyweight of the international street art scene who has indelibly left his mark in the 13th arrondissement is American artist Shepard Fairey, aka Obey. Certainly almost everybody in the world has come across the famous Obama Hope-posters that Fairey designed for the presidential campaign of the 44th president of the United States. Hardly lesser known is the intriguing pop-cultural movement that Fairey sparked off in 1989 when he started plastering the cities of this world with ‘Obey Giant’-posters. On these posters one can see the somber stare of André the Giant, a famous French-born WWF wrestling star; below the face the simple logotype “Obey!”

Three of Fairey’s creations can be found on the high-rises of the Parisian Quartier de la Gare. One of them is in the direct vicinity of C215’s ethereal cat: A French flag stating the national motto of France ‘Liberte, Egality, Fraternite’ (Liberty, Equality, Brotherhood), fittingly located at the Rue Nationale. The second one is called ‘Earth Crisis’, which displays our world embedded into a delicate mandala. The mandala balances on the tip of the Eiffel Tower and at the top one can see the Statue of Liberty. The last one is, like the previous one, on Rue Jeanne d’Arc and shows a woman wearing heavy make-up, all kept in the simple hues of red, black and gray. Hidden in all of Fairey’s murals is of course his artistic signature – The face of André the Giant, the symbol which made him famous.

Website: https://obeygiant.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ObeyGiant

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/obeygiant/

Tintin – Corner of Rue Eugene Atget & Boulevard Auguste Blanqui (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: unknown

Location: corner of rue eugene atget & boulevard auguste blanqui (street art paris 13).

Tintin by Belgian cartoonist Georges Remi is one of the most famous European comic book series of all time alongside comics like Asterix & Obelix or Lucky Luke . It comes as no surprise that one should find images of Tintin street art in Paris, so close to the country of origin of the comics. However, this particular stencil might raise a few eyebrows: Tintin and Captain Haddock intimately kissing? Haddock’s left hand resting on Tintin’s tushy? Both flamboyantly wearing pink loafers?

Okay, people had always speculated that Tintin might be queer. After all, he never had a girlfriend; as a matter of fact there were barely any female characters at all in the comic book series; Tintin also had this sort of androgynous quality about his entire appearance; and most importantly he actually LIVED with Captain Haddock. Nothing is definite of course, it’s all speculation. But one has to applaud the artist’s courage to actually continue to write the narrative and give Tintin a nudge towards outspoken street artistic homosexuality. 😀

1) Inti – 81 Boulevard Vincent Auriol (Street Art Paris 13)

2) Inti – 129 Avenue d’Italie (Street Art Paris 13)

3) Inti – Rue Lahire (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Inti

1) 81 boulevard vincent auriol (street art paris 13), 2) 129 avenue d’italie (street art paris 13), 3) rue lahire (street art paris 13).

In times of the absurd burkini ban in certain coastal towns of France one has to agonizingly wonder whether it is allowed to depict a woman wearing an Islamic veil (hijab) or not. All kidding aside, Inti’s art often deals with themes like religion, Christianity in particular, South American mythology, life, death and politics, and this is also evident in this piece. The veiled woman, bedded on a sea of purple roses, radiates an aura of saintliness. Carrying the universe right around her neck and hands, she also wears the symbols of voodoo and the dark arts on her neck and wrists: little skulls.

On these skulls one can make out symbols of religion and mysticism. The Christian cross, the Jewish Star of David, a satanic pentagram, the Arabic crescent moon and if I’m not mistaken the calligraphic representation of the word Allah. Quite a mix that is and one got to wonder whether there is a hidden political-religious meaning behind the symbolic onslaught that Inti is confronting us with. After all he is the Chilean master of the puppets as one can clearly see in another one of his murals at Avenue d’Italie: A puppet being controlled by a puppet whose strings are pulled by yet another puppet. Deep stuff!

Website: http://inti.cl/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/inti_cl/

Monsieur Chat – Rue de Croulebarbe, opposite house nb. 5 (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Monsieur Chat

Location: rue de croulebarbe, opposite house nb. 5 (street art paris 13).

Is it Lewis Carroll’s notorious Cheshire Cat that is grinning at you so mischievously from across the wall? Whether or not Monsieur Chat’s impish yellow house tiger has been inspired by Carroll’s story of Alice in Wonderland, you will have a hard time keeping it off your camera roll while in Paris. It is simply as omnipresent as French baguettes or frantic Parisian drivers trying to run you over at the pedestrian crossing. So take a picture of the damn cat already, you don’t even have to say ‘cheese’. It is smiling the entire fricking time anyway 😉 While Monsieur Chat managed to stay anonymous for the best of 10 years, he was eventually caught in the act of spraying his cat on a house wall in 2007. So now we are lucky enough to present you with the actual name of the man who created the French version of Mr Whiskerson: Thoma Vuille.

Website: http://www.monsieurchat.fr/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/www.monsieurchat.fr/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/m.chat_official/

1) Invader – 42 Boulevard Vincent Auriol (Street Art Paris 13)

2) Invader – Passage du Moulin des Pres (Street Art Paris 13)

3) Invader – Rue Watteau (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Invader

1) 42 boulevard vincent auriol (street art paris 13), 2) passage du moulin des pres (street art paris 13), 3) rue watteau (street art paris 13).

Get your game controllers ready, it’s time to play some good old arcade games! This time the invasion is for real though. The urban world is the gaming arena and you’re under attack by a bunch of pixelated computer characters that have come to life on the facades of the houses of Paris. This street artist certainly needs no further introduction, but we’ll do it nonetheless just in case you might have missed his tile-work and mosaics taking over your very own city since the mid 1990s.

Invader, whose street art pseudonym obviously refers to the 1978 classic arcade game Space Invaders, is a street artist from France. He mainly works with tiles, since it goes well with the virtual characters that he displays: One tile for every computer pixel. His real identity is a well guarded secret, though he has been quite active and his art has also been widely covered in documentaries and on the web. Invader keeps track of all of his street art creations on a  world map on his website: Currently 3386 invasive pieces of street art have been installed in 67 cities of the world by Invader, most of them in Europe. There is actually an app called  Flash Invader which allows you to hunt his street art and compete with other players in who has found the most. Invader even managed to get one of his artworks onto the ISS space station. Google it if you don’t believe it 😉

Website: http://www.space-invaders.com

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/invaderwashere/

Jana & JS – Rue Jeanne d’Arc (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Jana & JS

Location: 110 rue jeanne d’arc (street art paris 13).

Jana & JS (Jean-Sebastien) are an Austrian-French couple who have been working together since 2006. Their art can be found in the streets of the world as well as in art galleries. In their stencils they often depict themselves holding cameras and taking photographs. We can perfectly see this in the mural at 110 Rue Jeanne d’Arc. While I am in the course of capturing Jana and Jean-Sebastien, he is aiming his camera directly at me whereas she is taking a picture of Jean-Sebastien. It almost seems like a Mexican standoff .

In any case it certainly creates a funny feeling being under the symbolic lens of surveillance and raises the question that had already been posed by French philosopher  Michel Foucault in his well-known book Discipline and Punish: Who is actually the subject and who the object? Who is the observer and who is being observed? In a world where almost every moment and everybody is being monitored certainly a topic that deserves a closer investigation.

Website: http://www.janaundjs.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/janaundjs

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/janaundjs/

FAILE – 110 Rue Jeanne d’Arc (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: FAILE (Patrick McNeil & Patrick Miller)

Based in Brooklyn, New York, Patrick McNeil and Patrick Miller have been working together under the pseudonym FAILE since 1999. The moniker doesn’t have any particular meaning, but is simply an anagram of a previous project (“A Life”) that the two had undertaken. FAILE’s art is influenced by pop-art and often uses collages and bright, pure colors as is evident in the mural of a ballet dancer titled “I held my breath” (Et j’ai retenu mon soufflé) at 110 Rue Jeanne d’Arc.

Website: http://www.faile.net/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/FaileArt/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/faileart/

SteW – Place de Venetie (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: SteW

Location: place de venetie (street art paris 13).

Even though the graceful Great Blue Heron is originally a bird native to the wetlands of North America, it seems to fit right in with the multicultural melting-pot of the Parisian Quartier Asiatique – the Asian quarter. Majestically it has taken under its enormous wings the (with 50.000 people) largest Asian neighborhood of Europe, predominantly made up of people of Chinese, Vietnamese and Laotian descent. Speaking of superlatives, the monumental mural by Parisian artist SteW is the second largest ever to be accomplished on the European continent. The sky-scratching concrete canvas at Stew’s disposal encompassed a whopping 52×14 meters and 30 liters of paint had to be used. Not too shabby for an artist who made his first artistic steps as a little 4-year old boy redecorating his nursery in the suburbs of Paris. Chapeau!

Website: http://www.stewearth.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Stew

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/stew_artist/

Pantonio – Place de Venetie (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Pantonio (Antonio Correia)

Fluidity of movement and a dark, haunted visual restlessness have become the particular artistic vernacular spoken by Pantonio, a street artist from Lisbon, Portugal. Born in the Azores, an archipelago of 9 volcanic islands in the mid-Atlantic, Pantonio heavily draws upon the fantastic animal world of his childhood scenery for inspiration: Rabbits, turtles, and fish are continuously on the move, spiraling upwards. Everything is in the murky subterranean colors of black, dark-metallic blue and algae-green. And the longstanding fishing and marine tradition of Portugal is evoked in vivid fashion by the drawing of nautical ropes and buoys.

Located right next to Stew’s Great Blue Heron mural at the Place de Venetie in Little Asia, Pantonio’s gigantic fish mural is as a matter of fact the largest mural in Europe. Painted on the façade of the Tower of Siena (Tour Sienne) the mural encompasses a space of 66 meters in height and 15 meters in width and beats the surface of Stew’s mural handily by a difference of 262m².

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pantonioo/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/pantonio.o/

Sainer – 13 Avenue de la Porte d’Italie (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Sainer

Location: 13 avenue de la porte d’italie (street art paris 13).

Hats are hovering in mid-air; an elderly woman with skull mask is touching a hummingbird in the clouds; a woman is sitting on a swing in the sky, holding a white rabbit, a bird nesting in her laurel wreath. Fanciful, illogical, dreamlike, whimsical, surrealistic – street art always comes with a twist when Polish artist Sainer is involved. Born in Lodz in 1988, Sainer often works together with another street artist by the name of Betz, both forming the Etam Crew. Aiming for a career in football in his early youth, we are glad that this talented artist is now conjuring up his magic on the façades of the world instead.

Website Etam Crew: http://www.etamcru.com/

Website Sainer: http://pblejzyk.blogspot.fr/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sainer_etam

M-City – 122 Boulevard de l’hopital (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: M-City

Location: 122 boulevard de l’hopital (street art paris 13).

Ever felt like just a tiny little cog in the big machinery of the world? If so, you will feel right at home in the graffiti world of M-City who excels in creating a claustrophobic, industrial atmosphere with his mazelike structures of chimneys, engines, gear wheels and steamboats. A master of intricate arrangements, M-City confers a hypnotic rhythmic quality to this particular mural at 122 Boulevard de l’hopital by putting together flowing patterns of black waves and white triangles. These are interrupted by little areas where a wild jumble of high-rises and urban houses tries to break through the sea of black waves. In a way this work reminds me of some of MC Escher’s paintings with its recurrent, repetitive tessellations.

Website: http://m-city.org/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/stencilcity

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/stencilcity/

Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada – Place Pinel (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada

Location: place pinel (street art paris 13).

Would you have happened to know the name of the man in the picture above? No? Of course not. Neither would we if we hadn’t done our research. His name is Phillipe Pinel. If you had ventured a guess based on the name of the square, you would accidentally have been lucky 😉 Why though did Mr Pinel make it up onto the wall? After all, realistic portrays are a rather unusual motif for street artistic endeavors. Well, the Cuban-born artist Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada has started a worldwide project called ‘Êtres Aimés’ (Loved Ones) through which he wishes to create a bridge between the community of a city, it’s history, important residents and their urban surroundings. Phillipe Pinel has been an instrumental figure in the advancement of the treatment of mentally handicapped patients and thus was chosen by the Parisian community as their ‘Loved One’.

Website: http://www.jorgerodriguezgerada.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/JorgeRodriguezGerada

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/jorge_rodriguez_gerada

Borondo – 95 Rue du Chevaleret (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Borondo

Location: 95 rue du chevaleret (street art paris 13).

Spanish muralist Gonzalo Borondo clearly puts an emphasis on conveying a deeper social meaning through his pieces of art. Ugly truths of what is going on in communities and society are revealed as Borondo mirrors human behavior in his thought-provoking murals. The somber “Three Generations” (Les Trois Ages) mural in the 13th Arrondissement of Paris is a case in point. The struggle of different generations living under one roof is expressed by the father blindfolding his son and the grandfather gagging the father. Emotions remain stifled and unexpressed. The burden of differing outlooks and paces of life are weighing heavy on the shoulders of each member of the family. Nobody is granted the right to make their voice heard in a meaningful discussion that seeks for shared solutions. And let’s not even start talking about the problems between different ethnicities (did you notice that the grandfather is of African descent?)! A painful symbolic reflection of actual society.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/borondoofficial

Zag & Sia – Rue du Chevaleret (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Zag & Sia

Locations: two staircases, both between 30-50 rue du chevaleret (street art paris 13).

As I take one step at a time up the steep stairway to the Parisian heaven I can hear her tender voice imploring me: “ Tread softly. You tread on my dreams! “. I am obviously bound to step on the image of the beautiful, chic Parisian woman in her red blazer, black turtleneck, voluptuous red lips and flirtatious eyes. Where else should I tread – I mean, she is right there on the stairs. Though when poets and artists spread their dreams and ideals under our feet, we better step carefully so we won’t destroy the delicate beauty and truth upon which the sanity of humankind depends: The promise of a life beyond the toils and troubles of the coarse, pragmatic daily grind.

Zag & Sia have chosen the vehicle of anamorphosis to enter into a dialog between the unique viewpoints of artist, artwork and observer. The term anamorphosis stands for an image or drawing that can only be seen undistorted or in its true shape if viewed from a particular standpoint or angle. Plausibly, a staircase with its varied levels of steps lends itself naturally to the purpose of creating an image that is distorted from certain views but whole from an ideal standpoint. So a satisfying experience of the artwork can only be made through a conscious effort. But when the rare overlapping of ideal viewpoints occurs it is a thing of idealized beauty that should be seized and captured for eternity.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ZaG47/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/zag_sia/

Reka One – Corner of Rue Regnault & Rue du Chevaleret (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Reka One

Location: corner of rue regnault & rue du chevaleret (street art paris 13).

Artists often strive to challenge conventional forms of visual representation to offer fresh approaches, to provide themselves with a voice that will be heard, and to make sense of an exceedingly confusing modernist world: Reality and the otherworld are overlaid, distorted, abstracted and fragmented to play with different perceptions and perspectives. Australian artist James Reka, aka Reka One, has developed his own unique style of blending elements of abstract cubism with surrealism and succeeded in projecting it onto the underground medium of street art. Strong lines and simplified geometrical patterns are mixed with free-flowing organic structures. Bold but limited colors easily catch the observer’s eye. And a seemingly random misplacement of abstract fragments challenges the mind to remodel the painter’s vision and make it whole again. It certainly also doesn’t hurt if the unorthodox canvas of a brown-brick façade imparts its very own free-spirited pattern to the overall artwork 😉

Website: http://rekaone.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RekaOne/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rekaone/

Jace – 59 Rue du Moulinet (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Jace

Location: 59 rue du moulinet (street art paris 13).

Street artist Jace is best known for being the creator of the so called ‘gouzous’ – small anthropomorphic (= bearing human characteristics) figures. Based on round shapes, these gouzous are stripped down to a simple humanoid outline. The details of their faces, hands and feet are not depicted by the artist. Based in Réunion Islands, a French department in the Indian Ocean, Jace has spread his cute, whimsical characters all around the world: Madagascar, Germany, Luxembourg … and of course also Paris, France. At 59 Rue du Moulinet, the gouzous have been put into a Nintendo setting of Donkey Kong and Super Mario Land by Jace. Here they have to avoid being crushed by falling wine casks, evade burning oil barrels and sidestep the ubiquitous Parisian dog turd. As if the topic of ‘merde’ could have been avoided completely in an article about Paris 😉

Website: http://www.gouzou.net/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/JACE

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/jaceticot/

Kashink – 74 Rue Bobillot (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Kashink

Location: 74 rue bobillot (street art paris 13).

Street art is a rather male-centric domain. Comparing the numbers of male and female street artists in this article, the male artists clearly outnumber the female artists by 20:4. French artist Kashink however is one of the few female street artists who is not only extremely active in her own home country, but who has enriched the street art scene all around the world. She likes being provocative and constantly challenges the societal status quo and preconceived opinions. Her style is very striking. It includes lucid, vivid colors, thick lines and mostly depicts faces that are characterized by monstrous facial features with four eyes and moustaches. Kashink wears a moustache herself by the way!

Kashink’s complex art often makes it necessary to have a substantiated knowledge about the art scene and the world in general in order to be able to decipher the hidden meanings in her murals. In this particular mural at 74 Rue Bobillot the key to unlocking the message contained in the painting lies within the Latin expression “Vanitas, Vanitatum Et Omnia Vanitas” (Vanity of vanities and all is vanity) which is originally taken from the book Ecclesiastes of the Hebrew bible. The word “vanitas” can be understood in two different ways:

(1) The original, older (pre-14th century) meaning of the English word ‘vanity’ stands for everything being futile or empty. Thus the statement suggests that everything in life is transient and death is a certainty. This reading is corroborated by the symbols that Kashink is using: the skull, the hourglass, the clock, the extinguished candle.

(2) The more modern meaning of the word ‘vanity’ points to a person being excessively in love with their own appearance. This reading again is proven true by the abundance of items placed in the mural which help to make a person prettier: make-up brushes, a lipstick, body sprays, gems and jewelry.

You got to read between the lines with Kashink! 😉

Website: http://www.kashink.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/KASHINKart/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/kashink1/

Strok – 20 Rue de la Glaciere (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Strok (Anders Gjennestad)

Location: 20 rue de la glaciere (street art paris 13).

Norwegian artist Strok mainly uses stencils based on his own black-and-white photographs as his favored modus operandi. The stencils are usually extremely detailed and Strok’s characters often completely defy the Laws of Physics as they are displayed doing hair-raising stunts, walking sidewise on walls and just generally mocking the concept of gravity. Strok does not exclusively work on the streets but has also quite successfully exhibited his work in galleries around Europe. He has currently chosen Berlin, Germany as his permanent home.

Website: http://www.andersgjennestad.com

Vinie & Reaone – Rue des Grands Moulins

Artist: Vinie & Reaone

Location: rue des grands moulins (street art paris 13).

Website: http://www.viniegraffiti.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/VinieGraff/

Twitter: https://twitter.com/viniegraffiti

Tristan Eaton – 4-6 Rue du Chevaleret

Artist: Tristan Eaton

Location: 4-6 rue du chevaleret (street art paris 13).

Website: http://tristaneaton.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tristaneatonart/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tristaneaton/

Philippe Baudelocque – Passage du Moulin des Pres (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Philippe Baudelocque

Location: passage du moulin des pres (street art paris 13).

French artist Philippe Baudelocque’s specialty is to draw delicate portrayals of animals using white chalk and oil pastels. He often incorporates star constellations, galaxies and other cosmic phenomena in these works. Everything is connected by an intricate network of exquisite, fine lines and patterns. Coming from an artistic background – Philippe’s father is an artist himself – Philippe soaked up art naturally from an early age on.

Website: http://baudelocque.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pbaudelocque/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/philippebaudelocque

Mireille Bailly-Coulange – Passage du Moulin des Pres (Street Art Paris 13)

Artist: Mireille Bailly-Coulange

This piece in the Butte-aux-Cailles neighborhood is by French artist Mireille Bailly-Coulange. Born in Béziers, she has been working in Paris since 1966 and has her own art gallery at 26 Rue Bobillot in the 13th district. The artwork is captioned at the bottom as the ‘Dance of the Elements’. The beasts of water, air and clay, represented by fish, eagle and snake have all come together in a whirlwind of flying limbs, centered by the flawless depiction of a nude female body.

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Tour Paris 13: Street Art Hardcover – March 1, 2017

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• Print length 256 pages
• Language English, French
• Publisher Albin Michel Editions
• Publication date March 1, 2017
• Dimensions 8 x 1.2 x 12.5 inches
• ISBN-10 2226259031
• ISBN-13 978-2226259035
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About the author.

Il est à l'origine des phénomènes de LA TOUR PARIS 13, de DJERBAHOOD, etc. qui ont tous fait l'objet de publications chez Albin Michel.

Product details

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Albin Michel Editions; Bilingual edition (March 1, 2017)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English, French
• Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 256 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 2226259031
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-2226259035
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 3.62 pounds
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 8 x 1.2 x 12.5 inches
• #1,800 in Graffiti & Street Art

About the author

Medhi ben cheikh.

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Tour Paris 13: Street Art

Mehdi ben cheikh.

256 pages, Hardcover

Published March 1, 2017

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Summer 2016 Intern Wanted

[vice] the silent protest of post-soviet graffiti, crime and punishment: an examination of russia’s tolerance climate, graffiti as protest: an interview with alexis lerner.

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• Is Putin’s Russia Good or Bad for the Jews?
• The Politics of Post-Soviet Street Art: an Interview with Alexis Zimberg
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The History of Street Art in Russia: Part One

June 2011. Minsk, Belarus. (Photo: Alexis Zimberg).

The Graffiti-Producing Counter-Cultures of the Soviet Era

According to the social history presented by John Bushnell in his 1990 book Moscow Graffiti: Language and Subculture , the unadorned graffiti of hippies, punks, soccer hooligans, and pacifists dominated Russia’s public sphere in the late Soviet period. The subculture youth of the late Soviet period used graffiti as a rebellious medium to express their non-conformist ideologies. In chalk, in oil paint and brush, or—before the early 1980s—less commonly in spray paint, Soviet graffiti artists attempted to infiltrate the government-controlled public sphere with peace sign symbols, popular rock references, and Nazi swastikas. While records of explicitly dissident graffiti exist these instances were uncommon. Bushnell states that dissident graffiti were: “so unusual that they set off KGB investigations, and sometimes political trials (Bushnell, P113).” Overall Soviet graffiti writers avoided direct political aggressions, instead concerning themselves with the soft politics of Afghanistan war protest, dissent toward American imperialism, anti-nuclear armament sentiment, and the freedom to musical and artistic expression.

While the history of Russian graffiti likely dates prior to the formation of the ninth century Rurik Dynasty (when graffiti largely served a labelling or basic advertising function), graffiti by its modern definition—writing on public walls to convey a message, however vulgar or seemingly meaningless—was first recorded in the early 1970s and credited to Soviet football fanatics. Football fans ( fanaty in Russian) broadcast their allegiance to FC Spartak Moscow, FC Dinamo Moscow, or TsSKA by etching the team’s name or the team captain’s name on the walls of Moscow’s residential outskirts. Often lacking forethought, fan graffiti quickly devolved to reflect the belligerence of their artists’ raucous, boyish, and instigative behavior, such as the stencil that suggests fans “Fight for Zenith” [Figure 6]. Over time the fanaty  and their graffiti developed an association with more extreme gang lifestyles, excessively vulgar speech, and violent hooliganism.

Pushkinskaya 10. August 2011.  Saint Petersburg, Russia. (Photo: Alexis Zimberg).

Though suspicious of the genre’s subversive messages and popular influence, party leadership softened toward Soviet-born rock groups the late 1970s. By means of concert tours and relatable lyrics, domestic musicians began to develop fan bases. State support for foreign artists soon followed; on May 20 th 1979 authorities invited British crooner Elton John to Soviet soil for a concert and later that year, per Soviet request, American blues guitarist B. B. King added a Moscow stop to his world tour. By the early 1980s, the youth influenced by rock-and-roll began to dedicate their graffiti to foreign rock groups like AC/DC, the Sex Pistols, and Led Zeppelin. By 1983-1984, their music-themed writing accounted for 20-25 percent of total graffiti in Russia (Bushnell, P68).

“Good Night White Pride,” “White Patriot,” “Punk’s Not Dead.” August 2011. Saint Petersburg, Russia. (Photo: Alexis Zimberg).

In June 1983 Konstantin Chernenko, then Minister of Ideology, announced to the Communist Party Central Committee that the rockers were causing ideological and aesthetic harm to the Soviet ideology (Bushnell, P76). Swiftly the Soviet leadership repressed the rock community by denying performances, censoring lyrics, and requiring the dissolution of many non-conformist groups. Genre participants reacted in a wave of creative, cosmetic changes; musicians reworked band names to sever their future projects from their former identities (now deemed un-Soviet by the authorities), the black market capitalized on selling outlawed tapes, and thousands of artists simply declined to register themselves with state officials, further enhancing their rocker authenticity (Bushnell, P77). One year later in 1984, Mikhail Gorbachev took office and introduced the Soviet policies of perestroika and glasnost’. Perestroika, loosely translated into English as restructuring , introduced pseudo-market economic reforms to the Communist model. Gorbachev’s glasnost’, defined in English as openness , established a more transparent government and encouraged free debate. The latter policy resulted in a significant loosening of media censorship and increased individual speech freedoms. In correspondence with the opening created by these top-down reforms, the rock scene made a state-supported comeback.

Tsoi Wall. Starii Arbat. August 2011. Moscow, Russia. (Photo: Alexis Zimberg).

“Fight for Zenith (a Saint Petersburg-based Football Team).” August 2011. Saint Petersburg, Russia. (Photo: Alexis Zimberg).

In the mid-to-late 1980s rock music returned to once again rest at the center of the Soviet subculture for everyone from the heavy metal Iron Maiden idolizers to the peace-loving Beatles fans. By 1988, half of Moscow’s graffiti was about rock-and-roll and increasingly centralized on permitted graffiti spaces known as fan walls. When Viktor Tsoi, the lead singer of popular rock band Kino, died tragically in 1990, his loyal listeners expressed their remorse on a still-existing fan wall near the far end of the Staryi Arbat. Today fans continue to memorialize the fallen Tsoi as a symbol of peace and a figure of youthful independence by contributing to the fan wall. Punk lovers, ideologically opposed to figures of authority, also began to systematically tattoo the Soviet streets with their chosen badge, the anarchist symbol. Though fanaty and rockers largely dominated the late Soviet graffiti scene, other subcultural youth movements—hippies, pacifists, and fascists—also edged their way into the public square.

August 2011. Saint Petersburg, Russia. (Photo: Alexis Zimberg).

The Soviet Union’s most explicitly political graffiti messages appeared in the early 1980s. During this time, hippie youth used the walls to share the international peace sign symbol, calls for universal free love, and poetic slogans about brotherly kindness (“Make Hair Everywhere,” “Long Live Butterflies,” among these) (Bushnell, P116)). Pacifist groups such as the Free Initiative meanwhile focused their political advocacy efforts on the moral wrongs of war and violence. While state threats of detention and arrest frequently derailed their demonstrative efforts, pacifists remained undeterred to speak out against the wars that they opposed. Alienated from the censored Soviet press and public sphere, Soviet anti-war demonstrators used graffiti to publicize their opposition to the Soviet Union’s 1979 invasion of Afghanistan, the United States’ imperial expansion, and the heightened threat posed by Cold War nuclear power, using slogans such as: “End the Shameful War in Afghanistan,” “Out of Afghanistan,” “Gorbachev—Murderer of Afghan Children,” and “Russian Children’s Skin is Just as Sensitive to Napalm as Afghan Skin (Bushnell, Pp 120-121).” Today, hippies and pacifists continue to draw peace signs and paint against nuclear armament, writing statements such as “Atoms Cannot Be Peaceful” and painting murals of the negative impact of nuclear energy on the environment.

A couple enjoys a romantic moment at the Bay of Finland. Below: “Heil Hitler.” August 2011. Saint Petersburg, Russia. (Photo: Alexis Zimberg).

The fascist revival of the early-1970s and its impact on the Soviet street narrative cannot be ignored. Graffitied slogans of “Russia for Russians,” “Heil Hitler,” and “14/88” began to frequent urban centers by the early 1980s. On 20 April 1982—Hitler’s birthday—Moscow’s neo-fascist counter-culture made its public debut at an unsanctioned Pushkinskaia Square demonstration. With the understanding that their ideology is more about Russian nationalism than Nazism, the neo-fascist reverence for Hitler in a country so negatively affected by World War Two is overtly instigative. Bushnell explains that the neo-fascists “esteem Hitler not so much for his specific beliefs—certainly not for his ideas about Slavs—but for his concept of racial purity and his example of dynamic, authoritarian rule… The fascists have chosen deliberatively to offend: their purpose is as much rebellion against political verities as it is promotion of a set of political views. They resemble in that way the counterculture they claim to despise (Bushnell, P153).” Seeking maximum exposure in the public consciousness, the leather-jacketed youth became active graffiti writers, especially outside of Moscow’s urban center (Bushnell, Pp153-160). Fascist graffiti—swastikas, the lightning-bolted SS insignia, and anti-Semitic slurs—long outlasted the Soviet Union and slogans such as “Love Your Own Race” continue to permeate the public spaces across the contemporary post-Soviet sphere.

These graffitied ethnic confrontations by skinhead youth writers do not exist in a vacuum. Documented as early as 1983 in Russia, an anti-fascist revivalist counterculture took to the streets with responsive demands for a Russian reality void of fascism and fascists. Anti-fascist writers engaged their counterparts in discourse by crossing out fascist symbols or dwarfing them with peace signs. Today, Russian anti-fascist activists, commonly referred to as members of the European Antifa movement, paint graffiti about life sans extreme nationalism, writing slogans such as: “Russia without Fascism,” “Art Without Fascism,” “Yellow, Red, White, Black, We Are All the Same,” and “Good Night White Pride.”

A Soviet Mural Welcomes Visitors to Transcarpathia, Ukraine. July 2011. Chop, Ukraine. (Photo: Alexis Zimberg).

This post is the first installment of a six-part series on the history of graffiti and street art in Russia. Coming next is part two: ‘Breaking’ Into Contemporary Graffiti. 

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Gallery of European and American Art of the 19th-20th Centuries

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The Art Gallery is a section of the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts. It's rooms  contain the artworks by masters  of the 19th and 20th centuries:  Art of Romanticism, Realism, Academic and Salon Art, Impressionism, Post-Impressionism, Symbolism, Avant-garde and artistic trends of the 19th century as well as the paintings of Ingres, Delacroix, Corot, Daumier, Courbet, Millet, Monet, Renoir, Cezanne, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, Matisse, Picasso, Kandinsky, Chagall, Rodin, Maillol, Bourdelle and other masters of the 19th and 20th centuries.

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This 7 Realms Ultimate tour of Moscow can be 3-Day tour, with 7 hours each day, or 4-Day tour, with 5 hours each day. 

This bespoke history-culture-art itinerary is the ultimate guide of Moscow with authentic Russian, Ukranian and Georgian cuisines along the way. 

Ready for adventure?

Highlights of  7 Realms tour of Moscow

• Explore Kremlin , the oldest and the largest fortress in Russia, a UNESCO World Natural and Cultural Heritage;
• Learn the stories of two Russian paradoxes –  Tsar Bell and Tsar Cannon , both the largest in the world;
• Walk the oldest streets in Moscow  and observe the ancient architecture of Moskovy;
• Discover Kitay Gorod , which used to be home to the first skyscraper and the first typography in Moscow, as well as the biggest pharmacy in Europe;
• Dive into off the beaten path of Moscow – Zamoskvorechye  and get impressed with a dazzling mix of hidden architectural gems and art masterpieces of Russia;
• Visit Tretyakov gallery  that reflects 1000 year-old history, art and culture of Russia;
• Explore the iconic sights of legendary Kolomenskoe  including the Palace of Tsar Alexey Mikhailovich, which is considered the eighth wonder of the world;
• Get scenic panoramic views of Tsaritsino park , the most romantic park of Moscow;
• Admire “Russian Gothic” of the Grand Palace in Tsaritsino , and enjoy the picturesque landscape with fairy-tale bridges;
• Have fun in Gorky Park , which is even the #1 park of Russia;
• Meet locals and catch up with local art trends in Winzavod Art Center , the oldest and most respectable art gallery in Moscow;
• And, of course,  try Russian pelemeni, Soviet vareniki or bliny, Ukranian borsch, Georgian Khachapuri , as well traditional hospitality, coziest and amazingly beautiful interior of the best local restaurants.

12-14 th  centuries

Red Square, the Kremlin, Kitay Gorod + Russian traditional lunch

We are going to see the cradle of Russian history and track the development of Moscow.

The residence of Dukes, Tsars, Emperors, Supreme rulers, Presidents will surprise you with its cathedrals, largest in the world Tsar Cannon and Tsar Bell, as long as the Armory with personal belongings of Great Tsars.

Highlights:

Red square tour.

• Walk-through  the Resurrection Gate  and don’t forget to flip a coin so you’ll be sure to come back one day!
• Visit the world’s famous  Kazan Cathedral ;
• See the  State Department Store  (GUM), once the Upper Trading Stalls, which were built over a century ago and still operating!
• Admire the lovely  St. Basil’s Cathedral , built to commemorate the capture of the cities Kazan and Astrakhan. After construction of the cathedral, the poor architect, Postnik Yakovlev, was blinded by Ivan the Terrible, forbidding him from replicating such a beauty ever again;
• Walk by  Lobnoye Mesto  (literally meaning the “forehead place”, or “Place of the Skulls”), once Ivan the Terrible’s stage for religious ceremonies, speeches, and important events;
• As well as  Lenin’s Mausoleum, GUM,  Manege Square, the Monument after Marshal Zhukov, Alexander Garden, Grotto monument, The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Obelisk to Romanov royal dynasty.

Kremlin Tour

• The Cathedral of Twelve Apostles  forms the grand entrance to the luxurious Grand Kremlin Palace.
• The Tsar Bell , the largest bell in the world, and  Cannon , the largest bombard by caliber in the world.
• The Ivan the Great Bell Tower  marks the exact centre of Moscow and resembles a burning candle.
• The Cathedral of the Assumption , place of coronation of the grand princes and tsars as well as the burial place of metropolitans and patriarchs.
• The Cathedral of the Annunciation , the private church of Russian grand princes and tsars for domestic and family ceremonies.
• The Cathedral of the Archangel , the necropolis of the Moscow dynasty of Ruriks and first Romanov tsars. The history of the necropolis started in 1340 with Ivan I, the great grandfather of Ivan the Terrible.
• The Armory  originated as the royal arsenal in 1508 and boasting the richest collection of the works of Russian and foreign decorative and applied art of 4th-20th centuries.
• +  The procession of the equestrian and pedestrian guards of the President’s regiment  (April to October).

Kitay Gorod Tour

Kitay Gorod is the oldest part of Moscow after the Kremlin, emerged in the 14th century due to the expansion of the boundaries of the Kremlin.:

Experience Kitay Gorod with its it’s charming one-of-a-kind places, many with great historical significance.

There are 4 monasteries, 24 churches, cathedrals, and 8 chapels in the area of Kitay gorod. We’ll see some of them.

You will also see:

• First typography in Russia , founded in 1553;
• First “skyscraper” of Moscow , 5-storeyed building built in 1876;
• English Old Court on Varvarka street , the former home of the first foreign representation in Moscow (1553);

The Trinity monastery on Ilyinka  – Apartment house-monastery of the Holy Trinity St. Sergius Lavra (“Trinity Compound”) which is nowadays an object of cultural heritage of regional significance (1630s).

+ Traditional Russian food with a great buffet bar. 

Eat as much as you like! :) Hearty lunch in Russian traditional restaurant, with old Russian traditions, bright decor and amazing authentic food in historical Tverskaya street, the main street of Moscow.

14 th -17 th  centuries

Zamoskvorechye & Kolomenskoe Museum-Reserve

Highlights :, zamoskvorechye tour.

• Explore vibrant Zamoskvorechye neighborhood full of life and character, which locals consider an epicenter of architectural masterpieces and ancient cathedrals, modern street art and best coffee in the town – Ultimate Russian Culture Experience!
• Soak in the beauty of the  greatest Russian masterpieces;
• Explore the  treasures of Russian art and architecture , ancient and modern;
• Get immersed into  Russian history ;
• Track the  origins of Moscow ;
• Experience Moscow’s premier art gallery –  Tretyakov Gallery;
• Admire the impressive architectural styles of  Russian cathedrals and temples.

Kolomenskoe Tour

Discover the oldest settlement of Moscow belonging to the Stone Age!

Kolomenskoye is a Natural Landscape Museum-Reserve in the open air: Ethnographic art, historical and architectural complex with the existing facilities of the medieval farm, stables, a forge, an apiary, a watermill.

You will see:

• Palace of Tsar Alexey Mikhailovich , initially built in 17th century and consisted of 270 rooms Nowadays considered the 8th wonder of the world by Russians;
• The Church of the Ascension  – a UNESCO monument and a masterpiece of Russian and world architecture.
• Palace Pavillion  that served as a tea house or home theater, the main façade is decorated with Doric portico and two lioness sculptures;
• Front Gate Complex  that was the main entrance to the summer residence of the Tsar for distinguished guests;
• Church of Beheading of St. John the Forerunner  that Ivan the Terrible for holiday worships and his birthday feasts;
• As well as royal  Food Yard, Peter I’s House, Household structure (Mead Brewery), The Streltsy Guard-houses, Moss Tower and the Memorial Pole.

+  Lunch in Korchma, Ukranian traditional restaurant.  

Dynamic interior with authentic decorations and festive ethnic Russian & Ukranian traditions in one place! Your lunch will include:

• Lean sorrel borsch
• Podolsky Salad,  incredibly juicy and crispy salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes, cauliflower, carrots and greens;
• Zrazy with mushrooms and spinach
• Chicken soup with noodles
• Spring salad with cucumbers, radish, eggs, green onions, lettuce and mayonnaise
• Chicken schnitzel with stewed cabbage

18 th -21 st  centuries

Tsaritsino, Gorky Park, Winzavod Art Center

Tsaritsino tour.

Tsaritsyno is the monument of the so-called “Russian Gothic”, unique in its style.

Enjoy the picturesque nature of the architectural ensemble, fairy bridges and castle, vintage terraces, statues, ponds and historical atmosphere! You will see:

• Palace of Catherine II , full of mysteries, gossips, intrigues and scandals;
• Famous Bazhenov’s  Bridges  that are distinguished by unique artistic features that fully represented the architect’s “theater architecture”;
• The cascade of  Tsaritsynsky ponds  formed during 16th-18th centuries;
• Magic  Slopes  with beautiful landscapes that became a natural backdrop for open-air theater during Catherine II reign;
• The Ruined Tower of Tsaritsyno  offers amazing panoramic views from its observation deck;
• Temple of Ceres  where the Empress rested and watched holiday hay celebrations;
• Tsaritsyno Fountain  with 3000 lights dancing polonaises and minuets in the evenings.

Gorky Park Tour

Gorky Park is Russia’s most popular park. It also features Europe’s largest skating rink with artificial ice in winter.

Discover Gorky Park from its early Soviet Communist history and hear the stories behind how it evolved to become the trendiest and hottest spot of Moscow.

Founded in 1923, the park has a lot to impress with:

• Rich Soviet past;
• Authentic local vibe;
• Garage Art Center,  founded by Dasha Zhukova, the wife of Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich;
• Gorgeous nature landscape; 
• Yoga and dance classes;
• A myriad of local cozy cafes , street food kiosks, posh restaurants and coffee places with hot pastry.

What you get:

• + A friend in Moscow.
• + Private & customized Moscow tour.
• + An exciting pastime, not just boring history lessons.
• + An authentic experience of local life.
• + Flexibility during the walking tour: changes can be made at any time to suit individual preferences.
• + Amazing deals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the very best cafes & restaurants. Discounts on weekdays (Mon-Fri).
• + A photo session amongst spectacular Moscow scenery that can be treasured for a lifetime.
• + Good value for souvenirs, taxis, and hotels.
• + Expert advice on what to do, where to go, and how to make the most of your time in Moscow.

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