dodge journey transfer case fluid change

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Transfer Case Fluid Change

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Just an FYI, I just changed my transfer case fluid at 98,000mi. It came out pretty dark and dirty. I am not sure what the recommended change interval is(100k?), but it seems I waited too long. So if you haven't done yours yet, it may be a good idea to do it now.  

For the '06 your supposed to inspect the transfer case fluid every 30k and change it at 120k. I changed mine at 60k.  

My 04 manual specs the T case interval at 15K for schedule b (severe service) and 30K for Schedule A (normal service) I bought mine with 53K on it, and changed it soon after. Fluid was probably oem and just a little dark. The T case service is an easy DIY, and should not be overlooked. Don't forget your trans and front/rear axles also. Don  

I concur. My NV242 holds a mere 2 quarts at the most. I change mine every two years like clockwork with Amsoil ATF. Works out to about 20-22K miles, but I tow a lot throughout the summer months.  

Its on my list of to-dos this Spring/Summer along with trans filters and front/rear axles.  

Is there a how to on doing this? Just picked up a clean 04' and would like to do this as well as axles, tranny, etc.  

You can check the factory manuals (axles and transfer cases are almost all similar...) http://www.biodsl.com/durangofsm.htm Transfer case has a fill hole, about half way up on the side of the case, and an empty hole toward the bottom. Fill to just under the fill hole (same goes for the axles). For the axles, it's best to remove the pumpkin covers and clean the magnets for a proper job. First take the bolts off (the cover won't fall off); use a flat head screwdriver to crack the RTV seal at the bottom so the fluid can drain. After fluid has drained slowly pry the cover off. Set a cloth over top of the gears and use a knife blade to remove the old sealant (on the cover too!). After cleaning the magnet and making sure there are no large metal pieces present on/around the magnet, clean the inside of any old sealant and remove the rag placed on the gears. Apply new RTV sealant and replace the cover and install the bolts and tighten accordingly. After say, half hour, fill the axle up with fresh gear oil. Do a 10 mile test drive, and recheck the oil level and the seal for any leaks. Some apply sealant even around the bolt holes so the seal is even between all areas of the cover and diff housing. If you're not up to using RTV sealant ($8 a tube or so, one tube is enough to do both axles) there are rubber gaskets available for at least the back axle (not sure about the front), although I've never had any issue with sealant. The front axle is much harder to work at and it would be wise to properly lift the vehicle and have an assistant pass you tools to be not only more efficient, but safe. Now that you thread jacked and I'm adding to the mix, you can search on here for axle fluid change, or something along that line, for any related photos although they may not be your exact axle. Cheers.  

Timar: Dodgefan has given you some good direction. Consider using Mobil 1 or Royal Purple in the axles, and Valvoline or Mopar ATF+ 4 in the trans and T case. Autozone has a decent filter kit with both return and sump filters called a TF98 for $14. Don  

I use Amsoil full synthetic 75W90 in both the front and rear diff. Mobil1 sould be my second choice as I have used it in the past with good results, although Amsoil offers longer fluid change intervals.  

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AWD Tranfer Case Fluid Change

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My associate has a 2005 Magnum R/T AWD and needs to have the Transfer Case Fluid Changed. The type and capacity of fluid is known - MOPAR Spec. however, we cannot find the procedure to perform this service - As to Drain and Fill the Transfer Case. Also, the Front Differential FILL Plug is accessible , but where is the drain plug? fyi- Rear Differential Fluid was changed and it was a " dark gray" metallic color and content. It was flushed and filled with MOPAR 75W-140 SYN Your help would be greatly appreciated.  

Sorry, I just replied to your PM and suggested you start a thread not knowing you'd already done that. This page from the service manual should be what you need. Bernie  

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Change diff and transfer case fluid

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The dealer just recommended that I change the Diff fluid and transfer case fluid on my Durango at 36,000 miles. They said I am 6,000 miles over. I was going to do it myself. My question is it better to suck the fluid out of the diff and replace it or should I replace the gasket too?  

Manual says the only scheduled maintenance is for the transfer case at 120,000 miles. The differential fluid level is to be checked but not changed for normal duty, for severe duty it says to change every 20,000 miles. That being said, I did change both at 5,000 and 20,000 miles but don't intend to touch them again for 100,000 miles. There's drain and fill plugs (8mm hex) so no need to suck fluid out or deal with gaskets.  

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You should pull the diff cover. Use a straight edge on the cover to make sure the bolt holes aren't dimpled from torqueing and then use RTV for the gasket as the factory did.  

Paul, given your duty cycle you don't need to touch them until at least 60K miles..  

I agree they are synthetic fluids and can last 60K STEVE  

Cool, so in April I will do it.  

60K mikes or 30k pictures, he is close.  

I probably do need to change it now, I am at 42,392 pictures of Clifford  

I just changed mine @ 63k and it did not even look dirty or broken down.  

I can't find the fluid capacities for the front and rear differentials or the transfer case. Not sure if they're just not listed or if my google-fu is week. Could someone throw me a bone?  

1 quart each for both the differential and transfer case. This is for the V6. I changed mine and they all took less than a quart. Torque: Differentials - 26 ft.lbs Transfer case - 20 ft.lbs  

What type of fluid do you guys like here for the transfer case?  

atf+4  

Thanks, brother!  

@ Mike: Is Shell ATF the same as the ATF+4 the Gen 1 and 2 owners need for their T cases? From his sig, it looks like D516 has the 3.6, not the 5.7. From the 2015 D owner's manual: *Transfer Case – 3.6L Engine We recommend you use Shell Automatic Transmission Fluid. *Transfer Case – 5.7L Engine We recommend you use MOPAR® ATF+4® Automatic Transmission Fluid Don  

Don Fox said: @ Mike: Is Shell ATF the same as the ATF+4 the Gen 1 and 2 owners need for their T cases? From his sig, it looks like D516 has the 3.6, not the 5.7. From the 2015 D owner's manual: *Transfer Case – 3.6L Engine We recommend you use Shell Automatic Transmission Fluid. *Transfer Case – 5.7L Engine We recommend you use MOPAR® ATF+4® Automatic Transmission Fluid Don Click to expand...

It just says "Shell ATF"? Hard to argue with the OM, but I have to think elsewhere it has a more detailed specification. Given the MB origins of the DD, I'd say the Shell ATF 134 is probably what they are recommending.  

D516: MWeed has been around a long time, and is normally spot on with advice. It may be that the Shell stuff is another fancy brand of ATF+4. My experience is mostly Gen 1 and 2. I have learned though that some of the Gen 3 T cases call for something other than the ATF, so that's why I mentioned it. At 54, I find myself having more of those senior moments as time goes on. It's a club we all hope to live long enough to join. Don  

Don Fox said: D516: MWeed has been around a long time, and is normally spot on with advice. It me be that the Shell stuff is another fancy brand of ATF+4. My experience is mostly Gen 1 and 2. I have learned though that some of the Gen 3 T cases call for something other than the ATF, so that's why I mentioned it. At 54, I find myself having more of those senior moments as time goes on. It's a club we all hope to live long enough to join. Don Click to expand...

D516: A suggestion when you service your T case. Crack the upper plug before you remove the lower one. Once in a while, either plug might be a bear, and once it's drained, you won't be able to refill if the upper plug won't budge. Don  

This tip applies to so many other scenarios, and not just in vehicle maintenance!!!  

Would you guys recommend Redline C+ ATF for the Xfer case and diff?  

Please don’t put ATF in the differentials  

Front and Rear Diffs should be 75/85 or you can use 75/90...not an ATF.  

Thumbs up for Redline oils...IMO there is nothing better.  

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Front Axle Fluid Change on AWD

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Since I follow the maintenance recommendations in my owner's manual, I noticed my car was due to have the front and rear axle fluids changed for the first time. Due to my restraints in resources at home, I decided to have my local dealership perform this service. The rear differential fluid was changed with no issue. I was told that nothing was done with the front axle fluid, though, because it is designed for "fill for life" and not manufactured with a fluid drain plug. The dealership supplied me with a printout from DealerConnect which backed up their claim relating to the "175MM FIA front axle assembly". Has anyone else out there with all wheel drive Chargers experienced this issue? Is this "fill for life" true on all front axle assemblies? How could I identify which one I have? I just found it strange that the owner's manual for my specific car says to change the front axle fluid when a service statement from the dealer says otherwise.  

370 HEMI said: The sad part of where we are these days is that they don't want you to change it because it then can be claimed that it is sealed for life and is a lower maintenance item that is claimed on the cost of ownership papers. The manual is correct in that it should be changed. What has to happen is it needs to be replaced with 75w90 differential fluid. From the service manual: AXLE FRONT AXLE ² 175MM FIA - MoparT Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant 75W-90 Thank you for your response. The page you show here is the exact one that was supplied to me that they printed from DealerConnect. My question is: If there is no drain plug, then how DO you change the front axle fluid?? I would think that you'd have a hard time getting it sucked out through the fill hole, and I wouldn't want to risk overfilling it because some of the old oil is left behind. Click to expand...

DC, If you PM me your vin I will send you a build sheet that tells you all the specific components you have on your vehicle. If no fluid change is recommended for the life of the vehicle it will still indicate the type of fluid that is required in the service manual , and shown in the posts above, as these units may need to repaired or replaced from time to time so the fluid requirements are listed. As far as the post about not recommending fluid changes to lower the cost of ownership papers, never heard of such a thing. But then again that comes from someone trying to sell you something that you may not need. I have a sealed unit in my Jeep Liberty that comes with a lifetime powertrain warranty, I hardly believe Chrysler is trying to save me money so they can pay for a powertrain repair later on down the road.  

We have had several hundred AWD customers go ahead and replace the fluid in the front differential with our 75w90 HP Tackified Red with great results. Every one of them comment on how much smoother and quiet it makes the front end run. You simply have to make sure that the differential is HOT when you do it so that what is normally laying in the bottom when cold is now churned up. This way when you suck it out, the flecks and pieces come with it. Remember the solution to pollution is dilution! LOL. The differential....unlike the engine and trans.....has no filter! On the price issue, it happens all the time. Manufacturers do things to keep the costs down for themselves and for you so the cost of ownership numbers they print on every EPA informational brochure is "accurate" Total cost of ownership (TCO) is a financial estimate whose purpose is to help consumers and enterprise managers determine direct and indirect costs of a product or system. This is the same reason that you have sealed for life front end components that can't be greased. Better to not have a grease zerk and not grease it than have a grease zerk and not grease it. Front end components will then last as least as long as the warranty. You then get to replace them and hopefully with ones that have a grease zerk and then proceed to grease them. This way they will last much longer!! Remember that the aftermarket is here to make things that the OEMs might have made acceptable but not the best. Any OEM that will tell you that they make and use the best of everything in their vehicles is drinking their own cool-aid! Looking forward to working with you! Regards, Brian BND Automotive LLC:driving: 440-821-9040 www.bndautomotive.com  

i had flud change as soon as i did started make a noise, old gress had no mettle, now sound like pineion barreing going out, what not taken in consideratstion is one huge point changeing out fluded may be bigest mistake u make, now one can make arugement saying that over time gress dose get more fluded and easyer to run to replace it and no way to ack heat it up safely it might damage the barrings, the fine mettel that makes it black be look like as grafide, the probem we haveing is we dont know if noise is comeing from front wheel discontect or from the def its self but its effecking driveing u feel it drag then it stops much like bad rottor, but i taken it to two trsmission places no one place the sound bouth siad had get worse befor they find it . now this be cover underwarnty but the dealership screw me he put wrong miles was added to car fax report now they clame some one reset the milage all becuase some one was to dag on lazy to put right numbers in . i never found honest dealer ship never found one in 30 new cars i had never found one that mess up, and by way why are not police cars has any prices to them, they value at same as a reg car when there what 10k in upgrades to them that just stock, more if u got the one gose 160, but no one ever talks about the breaks cost twice as much shock are twice as much fule pump and the extra wireing done just stock not talking mod, in fack none these upgrades ever hits, for any one see and why is that, a front breaks pads alone is 80.00 there few parts on these cars stock the programing is not even stock, sound prof glass, rain breaking, list gose on and on and these cars supose been wire for any upgrades, wireing supose be inplace, now i love find out if some the sencors work in car like lain departure. i really like know how far they went with wireing is every thing a option, or just few things  

To check the gear oil on a Subaru... the front diff is built into the transmission housing. There will be a metal dipstick on the forward part of the transmission housing- this is NOT the transmission fluid dipstick but a separate one. I believe it's on the passenger side of the transmission close to the firewall. It can be tough to find if you've never snaptube vidmate located it before.  

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Fluid change at 50k miles

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I'm coming up on 50k miles (80k km) on my 2017 GT AWD, and want to do my fluid changes myself. Have a few questions since the owner's manual I got is a little light on GT AWD specific maintenance. 1. Do I only have to do the rear diff fluid? Is there a front diff or transfer case fluid change I have to do? 2. Is there transmission fluid I have to change as well in an auto AWD, or is it a closed system that doesn't need servicing? Thanks in advance! 😀  

The Transmission is Sealed a Shop or Dealer needs to do it.  

At 50,000 miles (per OM): Change the rear axle fluid ... and if using your AWD vehicle for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet, off-road, or frequent trailer towing change the front axle fluid. Automatic Transmission: Fluid And Filter Changes Under normal operating conditions, the fluid installed at the factory will provide satisfactory lubrication for the life of the vehicle. Routine fluid and filter changes are not required.  

All fluids are synthetic, 50K changes are overkill. Dodge claims lifetime on the trans fluid, ZF claims otherwise. I tow with mine so I will pay a fortune for the dealer to do it eventually. The filter is part of the pan, so it needs replaced and fluid level set at a certain temp so a scan tool is needed.  

2010swse said: All fluids are synthetic, 50K changes are overkill. Click to expand...

Yeah, not engine oil. I use full synthetic, I change around 40% on the monitor or around 10,000 km. I checked the diffs for water contamination, since we launch the boat, it looked brand new fresh. I may check the transfer case but it does have a level sensor.  

2010swse said: I may check the transfer case but it does have a level sensor. Click to expand...

Lifetime depends on how far you are going to drive and what kind of driving you do. Dorman makes a pan with a removable filter. Dorman part #265-850. The replaceable filter is part #265-850F. You do not need to spend $27.00 per quart of ATF either. Valvoline universal ATF meets the Chrysler & ZF spec. They sell both on Amazon. Changing the oil and pan is easy because the pan has a drain plug. When you fill, you do not need anything that plugs into the computer. All you need is a DVM with a temp. probe. They make it sound difficult but, it is not. -John  

TheOldGuy said: When you fill, you do not need anything that plugs into the computer. All you need is a DVM with a temp. probe. Click to expand...

So it is just a temp sensor on the transfer case, guess it makes sense considering the system comes on at certain temps automatically. I will check the level next oil change. Glad to hear Dorman stepped up on the pan with a separate filter as well for the 8 speed. I will probably do that and the engine oil filter housing from them as well. You are right about not needing a scan tool but the temp needs to be accurate as the level is determined by that. I assume the fluids are low viscosity universal full synthetic fluids?  

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• All Wheel Drive (AWD)

2009 dodge journey 3.5 Awd transfer case leaking

By qwizzy May 1, 2022 in All Wheel Drive (AWD)

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I have a 2009 dodge journey 3.5 Awd and i have been smelling gear oil.  So i crawl underneath and noticed that i have a leak. I can also wiggle it it has a lot of play. Can someone tell me if i need a new transer case or if a certain part needs to be replaced  20220501_135715.mp4

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i would assume there is a pressed in seal there where the shaft goes in the case. most garages ( transmission shops or dealership, or even part stores ) or would be able to tell you that for sure, good luck i am sure someone with more advice will chime in soon with better info

John/Horace

Looks like output shaft lip seal is leaking.  First thing is to figure out if you have enough oil in ptu unit to keep driving temporarily until it’s fixed. 

People have posted on site how to dump and fill the 75w90 through vent hose line, slow and tedious, but better than trying to use the factory refill plug that is crazy to get at on the 3.6 engine, 3.5 might be different. Oil capacity is just less than a quart on 3.6 unit  about 800 milli litres full. No dipstick so dump and fill is only way to determine current level.

It’s possible  drive shaft can be removed and new seal can be installed with unit in place if leak is caught early and unit doesn’t have major damage. Usually it’s cheaper to get a auto recycler used ptu  then to rebuild or buy new ptu (power take off unit).

Look for metal shavings on the magnet drain plug and in the oil that is dumped out. If only a few drips over night,  a refill might give you time to check around for quotes.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,drivetrain,transfer+case+output+shaft+seal,8440

I was thinking the same thing, it could possibly be the seal. I tried to upload a video.  20220501_135811.mp4

It’s obviously leaking from the seal, no video needed. The rubber can get old and brittle,  metal shavings and dirt can get into seal and wear it out 

Don’t drive it until oil level is known, might get away with a seal if lucky.  If it’s fixed right away.

But if it’s already noisy the bearing/gear internals ran without oil and whole ptu wil need rebuild or replacement.

Most gear boxes have a accessible fill plug and can have level checked, and can be topped up if low.

This unit can’t be.

Thanks for all of your help,  i ordered the seal from mopar,  im going to look for a drain plug this weekend & hope that something comes out.  ?

Drain plug needs a 10 mm or 3/8 Allen key or Allen head socket.

Vent is a black rubber hose with a plastic air vent cap on the end. Vent has a clip at top holding it to a metal bracket.

Can use a big syringe to force in oil through the 1/4” rubber vent hose that feeds into the ptu. There are posts on site describing how to do it on a 3.6 engine set up. The 3.5 should be similar.

Ok, thanks is the refill amount the same as the 3.6? Ive found  a video on it

would check with the dealership for a specification on how much fluid since 2 different engines and possible difference in the unit

Most diffs or transfer cases have a drain and fill hole. You fill through side fill hole until oil starts over flowing and you know it’s full.  On 3.6 engine  fill hole is almost impossible to reach, it might be accessible with the 3.5 engine.  Could also not be the same Borg Warner made ptu unit, so possibly  different oil capacity.

Ok, i will check with the dealer to get the amount of capacity and fluid weight/type. 

Also, i dont know if the video uploaded but my driveshaft has play right where it is leaking. So with replacing the seal will it fix the play issue or will i need a complete driveshaft?  

I can’t get clip to play on android or Apple.  Lip seal won’t fix play. Drive Shaft has to come off to install new seal, you will see if play is just in the shaft or in the ptu output shaft.

If it’s in the ptu output shaft, the bearings inside will need replacing. Lack of oil could have accelerated the wear.

Some people have left the drive shafts off the car and used vehicle in front wheel drive only.  But ptu still needs to hold oil so passenger front c/v shaft is driven by a  lubricated gear box.

Oh man i hope its not the ptu shaft but i know its possible.  Im sorry for asking  so many questions.  But lets just say its the ptu output shaft.  can that be repaired/replaced? Or will i need a complete tear down?  I haven't had time yet to completely inspect everything until Saturday. I just won't to prepare myself. I recently just purchased this vehicle so i dont know much about it. I recently just started smelling gear oil through my ac vents so that is what made me jack it up and check for any leaks.

People usually buy a complete used ptu unit from LKQ or other part recycler. It would be a lot of labor to have swapped out.

Several hours for sure, transmission shops can do it.

With a small drip it could be topped up and driven without letting it get really low. No dipstick or overflow would make it hard to figure out oil level. Unless on 3.5 it is more accessible more than the 3.6 engine. The drive shaft that runs the awd is also around $500 new. 

Well it looks like the play is in my ptu shaft.  I got the nut loose but cant seem to remove the cover to get to the seal. Also i still have found the drain plug. As far as the vent tube. I think mines is metal ? 

I found the plug, unfortunately this is all that came out

Is it possible to just replace the bearings ?  I see there is bolts all around the shaft. Or is this ptu considered fried! ?‍?

3 hours ago, qwizzy said: I found the plug, unfortunately this is all that came out

oh oh that doesn't look good

1 hour ago, qwizzy said: Is it possible to just replace the bearings ?  I see there is bolts all around the shaft. Or is this ptu considered fried! ?‍?

looks like some of the bearings are missing as well

Ouch, it was run pretty much dry, some of the rollers are missing on that bearing in pic.  I’ll look for an exploded diagram, the problem is there are probably  several other bearings also damaged.   

People usually source a used unit because it’s cheaper than rebuilding the old one.  Need to find out if 3.6 and 3.5 use the same ptu if you go with a used unit. Transmission shops do these kind of repairs. Very crappy news unfortunately.

Yep, unfortunately i haven't owned it 2months yet?‍?. 

The rollers is why i had play. Before i took it apart.  The driveshaft is fine.

My next step is to decide to keep it or just find a used ptu to replace it. I just know its going to be expensive ? 

AWD cars have extra diff and transfer cases that have to be maintained or it’s gets expensive. You need to check your rear diff as well, make it’s not also just full of mud.  Front ptu is a different part 3.5 versus 3.6, new it’s more money because not as common. Can dollars are @approx 1/3 less than US dollars. LKQ is the biggest on line used part recyler.

https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-transfer-case-rl071706aa?c=Zz10cmFuc2Zlci1jYXNlJnM9dHJhbnNmZXItY2FzZSZsPTEzJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1kb2RnZSZvPWpvdXJuZXkmeT0yMDA5JnQ9ci10JmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D

Your right, i will check the rear tomorrow since its so simple to drain and refill. 

But lkq is where im going to purchase one from.

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Only licensed salvage yards can list auto parts on car-part.com so you can be assured that the companies listed are actual salvage yards.

Option 3: Buying online through a broker or website

Buying a used transmission through a broker / website is not recommended . Most brokers / websites typically use the above www.car-part.com to find you a transmission, then mark up the part by several hundred dollars–charge a brokering fee–and not all online brokers are legitimate or give you the accurate mileage that was on the transmission they are selling. So in the end, you end up paying more for the same thing, at a higher risk of having difficulty if you need a warranty claim.

Pro Tip: Resist the urge to buy a low priced transmission over the Internet that claims low mileage. The risk of a warranty situation is generally not worth any savings of buying a cheap transmission from out of state. You will have little or no recourse if the transmission does not work right. If you prefer to not deal with a salvage yard, buy a used transmission for sale through your local repair shop . Because if you end up having a problem with the transmission (roughly 20-25% chance), buying through your local repair shop will save you the potential headaches of dealing with a third party from out of state who is trying to get a warranty unit from another salvage yard in another state. The repair shop you are buying through typically will already have an established relationship with that salvage yard and will get your situation resolved far easier than through an online broker.

Our Recommendation

We recommend Street Smart Transmission . Their transmissions carry a 3 year / unlimited miles warranty that covers both parts and labor. Their warranty is nationwide and attached to the VIN so it is transferable with ownership if you decide to sell the vehicle. It also covers both parts and labor for the installation of the replacement transmission.

Watch the Remanufacturing Process

How it Works

Finding a Shop to Install the Remanufactured Transmission

If your transmission has failed , you’re going to need a skilled mechanic to replace it. You can find a shop using our shop locator map .

For warranty purposes, you need to find a reliable repair shop. That way, if the replacement transmission doesn’t work properly, the warranty will cover it.

Each step in the remanufacturing process has to be verified by quality control managers before the build can continue. This guarantees uniform, properly functioning transmissions that will exceed the original manufacturer’s specifications. It also allows for a generous warranty that will protect you from transmission repair costs for up to three years.

• Standard coverage: 3 Years / Unlimited Mileage
• Commercial applications: 18 Months / 100,000 Miles
• Warranty is attached to the VIN number and can be transferred if the vehicle is sold
• Coverage is good at any licensed repair shop, anywhere in the United States
• Pays for parts & labor
• Replacement transmission will be shipped immediately upon receipt of a claim

In addition to the exceptional warranty coverage, every transmission is shipped to any business address for free, and core returns are shipped free as well. Between the build quality and the warranty, a our transmissions are literally better than new.

More Information by Make & Model

Toyo of stockton.

Toyo of Stockton was established October 2013 by Jorge Santiago. He has 10yrs of experience and is master certified by Toyota Motor Co. The owner created the small business to help TOYOTA/Prius owners with auto repair expense. Prius owners feel as if the dealership is their only option because the lack of knowledge from aftermarket shops.

Quintero’s Auto Repair

Website:  http://www.quinterosautorepair.com/

Quintero’s Auto Repair is Stockton’s trusted auto repair shop. For over 21 years, we’ve been a family-owned business focused on delivering honest and professional auto repair and maintenance services. Our highly-qualified, ASE-certified technicians employ the latest in automotive technology — giving us the ability to handle all major and minor repairs, along with complete maintenance on all foreign and domestic vehicles. Our services include transmission repair, brake repair, oil changes, automotive service, and auto maintenance.

A-1 Transmissions

Foreign and domestic transmission, transfer case, and clutch repair/rebuilding. We perform computer and electrical diagnosis/repair. We have recently expanded our menu to include general auto repair and preventative maintenance services. We include a 3year/100,000 mile warranty on our rebuilt transmissions.

United Auto Repair

Website:  http://www.stocktonautorepairsite.com/

Our friendly, experienced service department located here in Stockton will keep your vehicle in top condition.  We use the latest auto diagnostic technology in Stockton ca to provide high-quality service and quick turnaround for Stockton Auto Care

209 Motorsports

(209) 954-1510 720 E Hammer Ln #4 Stockton, CA 95210

Website:  http://www.209motorsports.net/

Quality Tune-Up

(209) 547-9084 1014 N El Dorado St Stockton, CA 95202

Website:  http://www.myqualitytuneup.com/

The answer is found at Quality Tune-Up. Quality Tune-Up has earned a reputation of offering reliable and efficient car maintenance and auto repair services to Sacramento neighbors. With over ten convenient locations in the Greater Sacramento region, Quality Tune-Up strives to achieve each client’s 100% satisfaction. By using a combination of continuous education, the latest automotive technology, and specialized knowledge, Quality Tune-Up can fix any auto repair problem, big or small.

Ultra Care of Stockton

(209) 957-7841 2307 N W Ln Stockton, CA 95205

Website:  http://www.ultracarerepairs.com/services.nxg

Clutches N More

Website:  http://www.clutchesnmore.net/

If you’re looking for high quality and personal service, you’ve come to the right place. At Clutches N More we’ll give you the attention and personal service you’ll come to expect and enjoy. Our professional and experienced team with over 40 years of automotive knowledge can assist you with all your automotive needs!

Express Transmissions

Website:  http://www.expresstransmissions.com/

Express Transmissions is a family owned and operated business, and we take pride in serving our friends and neighbors throughout Stockton and the surrounding communities. We understand how important your car is to your daily life and we want to keep you and your family safe throughout all your automotive journeys, big and small. Schedule an appointment with your Stockton Transmission Repair today to have our experts take care of you and your car.

Transmission Shops in Nearby Areas

• Bakersfield
• Chula Vista
• Garden Grove
• Huntington Beach
• Los Angeles County
• Moreno Valley
• Rancho Cucamonga
• San Bernardino
• San Francisco
• Santa Clara

California State Licensing Requirements