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Find a manual, troubleshooting: common clutch issues and causes, you are here.

Clutch troubleshooting is actually pretty easy. Just be patient and logical.

There are several ways that the clutch in your car can go wrong, but once you understand the parts, and how they interact, finding and fixing the problem should be easy. There are two basic ways a clutch fails - it either fails to disengage, or fails to engage fully.

Clutch fails to disengage when pressed

In normal, modern stop-and-go driving, you probably press the clutch pedal in every few seconds. And on that one time when you press it and the car still creeps forward, you know you have a problem. Sometimes a part fails and the clutch goes from working normally, to not working in an instant. Other times it is a slow gradual change, with each use of the clutch working less and less well. Each of these failure modes has different causes, and how it failed can be a big help in figuring out how to fix it.

Sudden Failure

• Broken/loose clutch cable
• Broken/loose linkage
• Failed hydraulic master/slave cylinder
• Leaking hydraulic line
• Improper fit of throwout bearing with pressure plate
• Disc contaminated with foreign material

Gradual failure

• Stretched cable
• Bent linkage
• Failing master/slave cylinder
• Low hydraulic fluid
• Broken motor/transmission mount

Clutch fails to engage properly

A clutch that doesn't engage fully, or slips under heavy load, is the normal failure mode of a worn out friction disc of pressure plate that has lost its tension. When you press the clutch, your foot counters the diaphragm spring which presses the friction disc to the flywheel. If the spring pressure is not great enough, or the clearance between all the parts is too great, there won't be enough friction to transmit the power from the motor to the transmission. Friction discs wear and get thinner, and springs get weaker with time and use, which is why all clutches eventually start to slip. The sudden onset of a slipping clutch usually indicates that an oil leak, or something else has contaminated the friction surfaces.

Clutch does not engage at all

• Binding in linkage or cable due to corrosion
• Seized slave cylinder
• Seized throw out bearing
• Failed pressure plate diaphragm
• Failed friction plate

Clutch slips under load

• Poorly adjusted cable/linkage
• ​ Normal friction plate wear from use
• Glazed friction surfaces from slipping
• Worn flywheel friction surface
• Weak pressure plate diaphragm springs
• Leaking engine rear main seal
• Leaking transmission input shaft seal
• Warped/overheated pressure plate or flywheel.

Other clutch issues

Beside not engaging, or not disengaging, there can be other issues as well, such as noisy operation, or chattering on engagement. On older mechanical linkages, lack of periodic lubrication can lead to high effort or binding in pivots or cables, or a pedal that does not return smoothly. A bad throwout bearing can be a major headache in stop and go traffic, making horrible noises every time the clutch pedal is depressed. These are often annoyances more than anything else, especially since fixing them often involves removing the transmission/transaxle to get to the parts.

• Burned or glazed friction surfaces
• Oil on friction disc
• Loose engine or transmission mounts
• Worn splines on clutch disc hub
• Warped pressure plate or flywheel
• Worn pilot bearing

Squeal or rumble when pedal pressed

• Bad throwout bearing
• Failing pressure plate
• Bad pilot bushing

Rattle or clicking from clutch

• ​Loose clutch release fork
• Faulty throwout bearing
• Low engine idle speed or rough idle
• Worn friction disc splines

High pedal effort

• Linkages in need of lubrication
• Binding cable
• Binding pedal pivot
• Faulty slave cylinder
• Faulty pressure plate

Clutch pedal fails to return

• Faulty clutch cable
• Failed return spring
• Bad pressure plate
• Binding throwout bearing

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Brake and Clutch Pedal Adjustment

Ensuring You Have the Right Amount of Free Play

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In order to drive safely, it's imperative that your brake and clutch pedals are sitting at their proper height. You can test this by measuring something called free play, which is the distance between the pedals when not depressed and the point at which they begin to engage when you press them with your foot. Too much free play and the pedals feel loose or spongy. Too little, and it's difficult to press them and get the brake and clutch systems to engage.

Most brake and clutch pedals should have just a little bit of free play, usually about a centimeter, which is less than half an inch. If you feel that your free play is more generous than this, or that you don't have any at all, you'll need to adjust your pedals.

Testing Free Play

It's not that difficult to test the free play on your car's pedals. Here's what you'll need to start:

• Open-end wrenches
• Line wrenches
• Wite-Out, colored nail polish, or another way to make a clear mark on a metal surface

There are two ways to test free play. With the car turned off, use one hand to move the pedal up and down. You should be able to gauge if your play is too generous or too short. If not, take a ruler and place one end against the floor and the other alongside the pedal. Lift the pedal to the top of its range and note the measurement. Now, push the pedal just far enough for it to make contact on the other side. This contact point is the point at which the pedal actually starts to activate the braking system or the clutch, compared to the floppy up and down movement you'll get in the area of the pedal—in other words, the free play. Subtract measurement two from measurement one, and this is the amount of your free pushrod.

Adjust Pedal Height

Now you're ready to fine-tune the pedal height. Follow the pedal upward to the point at which it attaches to a rod, called the push rod. Before you touch anything with your tools, it's a good idea to mark the pushrod with your Wite-Out or nail polish. You just need a dot on the part that's facing down toward you. This dot will let you be sure you don't rotate the pushrod until you want to. Any rotation ahead of time will throw off your measurements. 

Next, locate the locking nuts for the push rod. In the photo shown here, a 12-point star nut and a hex nut keep the rod from drifting out of adjustment on its own. Here's where your line wrenches come into play. Slip a line wrench over each of the lock nuts and loosen by turning them in opposite directions. Don't let the pushrod rotate yet (if it does rotate a little, use your mark to bring it back). Any rotation will cause the free play to change, and you're not ready for that to happen yet.

With the lock nuts loosened, rotate the push rod—you may need to use pliers to grip the rod and make it more easy to rotate. As it rotates, test the pedal's free play by pushing it with your hand. It will slowly increase or decrease.

Once you have the free play adjusted properly, tighten the lock nuts and drive around the block, testing the pedal heights to make sure they don't feel spongy.

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Adjusting the clutch

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To work efficiently, the clutch needs the right amount of play in the linkage between the foot pedal and the clutch operating lever (also known as the release arm or fork).

Anything less than the correct amount o free play (or clearance ) will result in clutch slip, because the pressure plate will be unable to exert its full pressure on the friction plate .

Failure to cure this fault will quickly lead to a burned-out friction plate, and possibly a ruined pressure plate.

If, however, there is too much clearance in the clutch linkage , the car tends to creep forwards when in gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

This is known as clutch drag, and it can cause difficulties in heavy traffic.

It is generally better, however to have too much play in the clutch linkage than too little.

The linkage should be checked and, if necessary, adjusted about every 6,000 miles or 10,000km, or as specified in the maker's service schedule. Wear on the friction plate and on the linkage will eventually alter the maker's setting.

Most modern cars have a diaphragm-spring clutch operated either mechanically or hydraulically.

On most cars, mechanical clutch-linkage clearance is measured and adjusted underneath the car. On some the makers advise checking free play a specific measurement between pedal positions - at the pedal, although adjustment may be made underneath

On some cars - many Hondas and Toyotas, for example - checking and adjustment can be done at the bulkhead under the bonnet.

Wherever adjustment is made, the same principles apply to all cable linkages. They are adjusted by either increasing or decreasing the lengths of the inner and outer cables in relation to each other. If there is not enough clearance in the linkage, the inner cable has to be made longer. If there is too much, it has to be made shorter.

Check your car handbook or service manual to find the exact amount of clearance required and how it should be measured.

In an emergency, as long as you ensure that there is play in the linkage, the clutch should perform well enough. Check it and adjust to the correct clearance as soon as possible.

On a few old cars, such as the Vauxhall Cavalier, there is a constant-contact release bearing - this is adjusted to give no free play at all in the linkage.

Although some hydraulic clutches can be adjusted, many are self-adjusting. Check in your car handbook or service manual.

If slip occurs on a self-adjusting clutch, the clutch has to be overhauled. If drag occurs, the hydraulics may be at fault (See Checking and removing a clutch master cylinder ). Otherwise, renew the clutch.

Mechanical clutch linkage

The typical conventional clutch linkage is an inner cable sliding in an outer sheath. The top end of the cable is attached to the clutch pedal and the bottom end to the clutch operating lever. The adjustment to the spring-loaded travel of the lever is normally made by means of a locknut, either at the point where the cable is attached to it - as shown here - or at the other end of the cable where it is attached to the engine-bay bulkhead.

Adjustment is made for clearance (free play) - the distance the cable travels before moving the lever.

Adjusting the clutch on a transverse engine

Checking cable clearance

The cable clearance on a mechanical clutch may be checked and adjusted underneath the car in a variety of ways, depending on the make. Three common methods are shown here: first, measuring the change in cable length when the clutch lever is operated; second, measuring between the adjuster nut and lever; third, measuring between the adjuster nut and cable stop.

On some cars, it may be possible to use either of the methods shown for checking and adjusting at the lever.

But the measurement must be taken between the points given in the car handbook or service manual for comparison with the specified figure.

Raise the car securely on ramps or axle stands, with the handbrake applied and the wheels chocked.

Checking and adjusting at the clutch lever

Locate the clutch cable, which loops down from the clutch pedal to protrude through the clutch operating lever. There is a threaded sleeve with two nuts on it at the protruding end of the cable.

The clearance is the difference between the cable measurement when the operating lever is at rest and when it is pushed inwards.

To measure it, hold a ruler flat alongside the cable between the operating lever and another point of reference, such as the edge of the bell housing .

Gently push the lever inwards as far as it will go, align the ruler with the end of it, and measure the distance between the lever and your point of reference.

Pull the arm outwards until it is at rest, then measure the same distance again. Find the difference between the two measurements and compare it with the maker's specified figure.

If the clearance needs adjustment, loosen the outer nut on the threaded sleeve, which is the locknut (on some VW cars it is a wingnut).

Then screw the adjuster nut either forwards or backwards to decrease or increase clearance, checking the measurement as necessary.

When the measurement is correct, tighten the locknut and depress the clutch pedal several times. Check the clearance again, and readjust if necessary.

On some cars with a protective undertray, the locknut may not be easy to reach and turn. If so, you will need a special spanner incorporating a socket and universal drive to undo it.

Another method of checking and adjusting at the operating lever

Locate the place where the clutch cable protrudes through the operating lever with the adjusting and locking nuts on a threaded sleeve.

Use pliers to unhook the pull-off spring from the clutch operating lever. Grasp the threaded end of the cable (use pliers if necessary). Pull it as far back as it will go; this will raise the clutch pedal to its limit. With the cable pulled back, use a ruler to measure the distance between the adjuster nut and the inner edge of the clutch operating lever.

This is the clearance measurement. Compare it with the figure specified in the car service manual or handbook.

If adjustment is needed, do it in the way described under Checking and adjusting at the clutch lever.

Checking and adjusting at the outer-cable stop

This method is used on some old cars. Wedge the clutch pedal in the fully raised position with a block of wood.

Locate the clutch cable and find where the outer cable is seated against its cable stop on the edge of the bell housing.

The locknut and the adjuster nut are at the end of the outer cable, next to the cable stop.

Hold the outer cable and pull it backwards as far as it will go, exposing the inner cable.

With the outer cable pulled back, use a ruler to measure the distance between the cable stop and the adjuster nut on the end of the outer cable.

This measurement is the cable clearance. Compare it with the maker's specified figure and adjust if necessary.

Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster nut either backwards or forwards until the measurement is correct.

Tighten the locknut and check the measurement again.

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Checking and removing a clutch master cylinder

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How to Adjust Clutch Free Travel (Step-by-Step Guide)

How to Adjust Clutch Free Travel

Your car’s clutch is a vital component of the drivetrain, and it’s important to make sure that it’s adjusted correctly. If the clutch is too tight, it will be difficult to engage and disengage, and you may experience problems with gear shifting. If the clutch is too loose, it will slip, which can damage the clutch and other components of the drivetrain.

Adjusting the clutch free travel is a relatively simple task that can be completed in a few minutes. However, it’s important to follow the steps carefully to avoid damaging your car.

In this article, we’ll walk you through the process of adjusting the clutch free travel on a typical car. We’ll also provide some tips on how to troubleshoot problems with your clutch.

So if you’re ready to learn how to adjust your clutch free travel, read on!

How To Adjust Clutch Free Travel?

| Step | Action | Notes | |—|—|—| | 1 | Locate the clutch adjustment screw. | The clutch adjustment screw is usually located on the side of the clutch master cylinder. | | 2 | Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to increase the free travel or counterclockwise to decrease the free travel. | The free travel is the amount of play in the clutch pedal before the clutch begins to engage. | | 3 | Test the clutch by depressing the pedal and making sure that it engages smoothly and fully. | The clutch should not be too loose or too tight. |

The clutch free travel is the amount of travel the clutch pedal has before it engages the clutch. If the free travel is too much, the clutch will not engage properly and the car will be difficult to drive. If the free travel is too little, the clutch will engage too early and the car will be jerky.

Adjusting the clutch free travel is a relatively simple task that can be done at home with a few tools. In this guide, we will show you how to adjust the clutch free travel on a car with a manual transmission.

Tools and Materials Needed

• Clutch adjustment tool (or screwdriver)
• Penetrating oil

Locating the Clutch Adjustment Point

The clutch adjustment point is located on the clutch master cylinder. It is a small, threaded hole with a locknut.

To locate the clutch adjustment point, follow these steps:

1. Locate the clutch master cylinder. It is typically located under the hood, near the firewall. 2. Remove the rubber boot from the clutch master cylinder. 3. You will see a small, threaded hole with a locknut. This is the clutch adjustment point.

Adjusting the Clutch Free Travel

To adjust the clutch free travel, follow these steps:

1. Use the clutch adjustment tool to loosen the locknut on the clutch adjustment point. 2. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise to increase the free travel or counterclockwise to decrease the free travel. 3. Tighten the locknut to secure the adjustment.

Testing the Clutch Free Travel

Once you have adjusted the clutch free travel, test the clutch to make sure it is working properly.

1. Start the engine and put the car in neutral. 2. Press the clutch pedal all the way down. 3. The clutch pedal should have about 1/2 inch of free travel before it engages the clutch. 4. If the free travel is too much or too little, adjust the clutch free travel again.

Adjusting the clutch free travel is a relatively simple task that can be done at home with a few tools. By following the steps in this guide, you can ensure that your clutch is properly adjusted and that your car is driving smoothly.

Tips for Adjusting the Clutch Free Travel

• If you are having trouble finding the clutch adjustment point, you can use a mirror to help you see it.
• Make sure to use penetrating oil on the clutch adjustment screw before you start adjusting it. This will help to prevent the screw from seizing up.
• When you are adjusting the clutch free travel, make small adjustments and test the clutch after each adjustment. This will help you to avoid over-adjusting the clutch.
• If you are not comfortable adjusting the clutch free travel yourself, you can take your car to a qualified mechanic.

The clutch free travel is the amount of play in the clutch pedal before the clutch begins to engage. The correct amount of free travel will vary depending on the make and model of your vehicle, but it is typically between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. If the clutch free travel is too great, the clutch will not engage smoothly and will cause the engine to stall when you shift gears. If the clutch free travel is too small, the clutch will engage too quickly and will cause the engine to lug when you accelerate.

To adjust the clutch free travel, you will need to:

1. Locate the clutch adjustment screw. The clutch adjustment screw is usually located on the side of the clutch housing. 2. Loosen the locknut. The locknut is located near the clutch adjustment screw. 3. Turn the adjustment screw in or out until the clutch pedal has the desired amount of free travel. 4. Tighten the locknut.

Once the clutch adjustment is complete, test the clutch by depressing the pedal. The pedal should move smoothly and should not stick or drag. The clutch should engage and disengage smoothly.

Testing the Clutch Adjustment

Once you have adjusted the clutch free travel, you should test the clutch to make sure that it is working properly. To test the clutch, follow these steps:

1. Start the engine and let it idle. 2. Depress the clutch pedal and shift the transmission into first gear. 3. Slowly release the clutch pedal until the clutch engages. The engine should begin to accelerate. 4. Continue to release the clutch pedal until the clutch is fully disengaged. The engine should stall.

If the clutch is working properly, the engine should accelerate smoothly when you release the clutch pedal and stall when you disengage the clutch. If the clutch is not working properly, you may need to adjust it further.

Adjusting the clutch free travel is a relatively simple task that can be performed by most DIYers. By following the steps in this guide, you can ensure that your clutch is working properly and that you are getting the best possible performance from your vehicle.

How do I adjust clutch free travel?

1. Locate the clutch adjustment screw. This is typically located on the side of the clutch master cylinder. 2. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to decrease free travel or counterclockwise to increase free travel. 3. Test the clutch by depressing the pedal. The pedal should move smoothly and should not stick or drag. 4. Retighten the adjustment screw.

• What is clutch free travel?

Clutch free travel is the distance that the clutch pedal moves before the clutch begins to engage. This distance is important for ensuring that the clutch is not engaged when you are not shifting gears.

• Why is it important to adjust clutch free travel?

Properly adjusted clutch free travel will help to ensure that the clutch is not engaged when you are not shifting gears. This will prevent wear and tear on the clutch and will also make it easier to shift gears smoothly.

What happens if clutch free travel is too low?

If clutch free travel is too low, the clutch will be engaged when you are not shifting gears. This can cause the engine to stall and can also damage the clutch.

What happens if clutch free travel is too high?

If clutch free travel is too high, the clutch will not be fully engaged when you are shifting gears. This can make it difficult to shift gears smoothly and can also cause the engine to lug.

How often should I adjust clutch free travel?

Clutch free travel should be adjusted as needed. If you notice that the clutch is not engaging or disengaging smoothly, or if the engine is stalling when you are not shifting gears, you should adjust the clutch free travel.

Can I adjust clutch free travel myself?

Yes, you can adjust clutch free travel yourself. However, if you are not comfortable working on your car, you should have a qualified mechanic adjust the clutch free travel for you.

In this blog post, we have discussed how to adjust clutch free travel. We have covered the following topics:

• How to adjust clutch free travel on a manual transmission car
• How to adjust clutch free travel on an automatic transmission car

We hope that this blog post has been helpful. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below.

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Technical   Clutch pedal almost no free travel

• Thread starter SkippyUpOver
• Start date Aug 1, 2019

Currently reading: Technical   Clutch pedal almost no free travel

Skippyupover.

• Aug 1, 2019

Hi, I have just obtained a Ducato 2005 2.3 JTD based motorhome and have noticed that the clutch contact point is uncomfortably high. Everything seems to be working though and I cannot detect any slippage during normal driving. I have read in the service manual that it has a self adjusting hydraulic clutch. The van has done 100k kms and I do not see any indication of a clutch replacement in the service history. 2 questions: - is there any way to adjust the pedal contact point? - does this very high contact point indicate that the clutch might be getting to the end of its life? Thanks...  

rolandbrindley

• Aug 3, 2019

It can be a sign that the friction plate is getting very thin, and I don't know of any self-adjusting system, clutch wear often means pedal shifting position with cable operated clutches. Hydraulically operated clutches are usually different and the pedal position remains fixed despite advancing wear. Don't leave it too long or you will find you need the flywheel refacing besides a new clutch.  

• Dec 8, 2019

No free travel is normal according to the book.  

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• Technical IH Talk

806 farmall clutch pedal free travel

By Redman812 April 28, 2014 in Technical IH Talk

• Start new topic

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On my 806 I have no free travel play on the clutch pedal and I think that it could be burning up my throwout bearing! My spring on the pedal seems to be fine but I just noticed there is a spring missing on that rod that pulls that piston out (pulls out towards the rear of the tractor) on the Mcv block I guess you would call it? Could that be my issue? Thanks for any input!!

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1" of free travel from the front edge of the plate forum, after that have the rod for the dump valve just make contact with the small arm when the clutch pedal is making contact with the throw out bearing . Then adjust the transmission brake and look at the spool for the TA and make sure the snap ring is just making contact with the top of the nut with the TA lever ahead .

If your lube light is working in the dash you can fine tune the dump valve so the light just goes out as the tractor just starts to move .

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clutch to pto free play adjustment?

• Thread starter SPIKER
• Start date May 6, 2004

Elite Member

Hi All: well lets start off with basics. Jinma 284 with 150 hrs. I've got my FEL on full time and use it as a bull dozer much of the use it has had so clutch abuse is pretty high. Recently I been roto-tillering a lot! unbroken ground and running in LL2~3 yesterady I Mowed wih the 5' finish mower and all went well cept for a flat tire on the mower... anyhow the problem is that the Clutch for the PTO does not engauge prior to the MAIN drive clutch. both main & pto clutchs engauge nearly at the top of the clutch pedal travel. It was better before all the tillering I did the last month. It was pretty much WHERE it should be PTO engauged at 1/2 way up and then clutch engauged the last 2" of travel. as it is now I'm getting both on in the last 1" of travel. I printed a copy of the CLUTCH adjustment procedures from the NYCTO post on main drive clutch adjustment. (note had to HIGHLIGHT the page to read it. as the Orange on the grey was not showing up.) anyhow is there a way to make the free play between the PTO and the MAIN clutch better? or will adjusting the main fix the problem>? thanks in advantce. If I end up tearing into mine I'll take some good detailed pictures. first off I'll have ot pull the FEL (has not been done since I assembled it 2 yrs ago... Mark M clutch adjustment page I spoke about http://nortrac.proboards26.com/index.cgi?board=Transmission&action=display&num=1078877768  

Veteran Member

Hi Mark, Its early, and my head may not be working just right, but as I think this through, I'm thinking a worn main disk would require more pedal travel to disengage the PTO. Of course the first adjustment is to be sure you have "free play" in the pedal. that one is external. The other external ajustment is the stop screw which the pedal should hit just after the PTO clutch disengages. The PTO pressure plate is pulled off the the PTO disk when the main pressure plate has already pulled back from the main disk and engages three adjustment nuts that pull the PTO plate. (all of these travels and movements are very slight, perhaps less than 1/16" as I recall) increasing the "gap" between main and PTO engagement is accomplised by backing those three adjustment nuts (with jam nuts) out EVENLY. If you get it uneven, you will likely get some clutch chatter as the PTO engages/disengages. I'm a little confused, because in my mind (pre coffee), the gap between these PTO adjustment bolts and the main pressure plate should increase as a result of the main disk getting thinner. But if the PTO disk is worn more than the main disk, it should move the two release points closer together. I'm going to go get a cup of coffee. Let us know what you see when you pull a loader bracket off.  

• Thread Starter

bluechip: thanks for the responce. I may try and take a look see this weekend if it dries out enough to stand on the ground... rianing BAD right now. MarkM /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif  

Hey all; just an update: I pulled the FEL left side support bracket and did some playing around with the clutch adjustments bolts and such. I figurred it out pretty easy to do. the info posted on NYCTO site was not a lot of help so I just did it using my own thoughts. I will get some photos tomarrow and post them on my page with dirrections as to what I did and forward it all over to JohnS for him to post on his site as it is probably one of the best places for everyone to look. Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif  

Platinum Member

Mark, Check out my conversion at Clutch Adj web page and let me know if you want any corrections. Thanks for documenting.  

John: Looks GOOD: I see I missspelled a lot of info on there! lol, forsome reason I never get a chance to re-read stuff and when I do I usually read it as I MEANT to spell it and don't notice the errors... anyhow thanks for posting it on you're page. Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif  

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Clutch free travel?

HBCU players signed as 2024 NFL Undrafted Free Agents

See a list of which HBCU prospects are being picked up as Undrafted Free Agents.

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For the second time since 2020, no HBCU players were selected in the NFL Draft. While there were several great prospects that showcased their skills on the gridiron, they're part of a group of players from all levels of college football that weren't picked in a draft rather stacked with talent. Typically, immediately following the NFL Draft, teams rush to sign the prospects they were looking to acquire but didn't expend draft capital on as Undrafted Free Agents. Although the number of players selected in the draft has decreased in recent years, many HBCU prospects find themselves in NFL training camps and on rosters in free agency.

Emanuel Wilson, running back out of Johnson C. Smith and Fort Valley State, is a perfect example of this occurrence. Wilson wasn't drafted in 2023 but signed as an Undrafted Free Agent with the Denver Broncos. He was waived shortly after being acquired by Denver but signed with the Green Bay Packers shortly after. He made the final roster for Green Bay and dominated in the preseason, eventually getting playing during the regular season and even the playoffs.

Although it's discouraging to HBCU football fans that HBCU players didn't hear their name called in the NFL, these players getting a shot to earn their way on an NFL roster is still an amazing opportunity. Below are the HBCU players who have been signed as Undrafted Free Agents this draft season.

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Per reports, Anin Dankwah is signing with the Chicago Bears. Wheeler is an explosive running back, showcasing his skills with the Howard Bison. He finished his career with 1,154 yards and 14 touchdowns on 177 attempts.

Sundiata Anderson, Edge, Grambling

Per reports, Sundiata Anderson is signing with the Seattle Seahawks. Anderson is a popular name in HBCU football, finishing his career with 136 total tackles (65 solo) and 14 sacks.

Jarveon Howard, RB, Alcorn

Per reports, Jarveon Howard is signing with the Green Bay Packers. The Packers certainly like HBCU running backs, as they picked up former Johnson C. Smith and Fort Valley State running back Emanuel Wilson as an Undrafted Free Agent last offseason. Howard will fit well in Green Bay. He finished his career at Alcorn with 2,048 yards and 19 touchdowns on 403 carries.

Aeneas Dennis, QB, Benedict

Per reports, Aeneas Dennis is signing with the Pittsburgh Steelers. Dennis had the task of replacing Eric Phoenix, the former starting quarterback for the Benedict Tigers that led the team to their first SIAC Championship and first appearance in the NCAA Division II Playoffs. Dennis was up to the task, leading the team to a second straight SIAC Championship and appearance in the playoffs. He finished the 2023 season throwing for 3,098 yards and 23 touchdowns with only 6 interceptions with a 62.8 completion percentage.  He also showed the ability to run the ball, rushing for 244 yards and 3 touchdowns on 66 attempts.

Willie Drew, DB, Virginia State

Per reports, Willie Drew is signing with the Carolina Panthers. Drew received plenty of buzz coming into the season as a potential draft pick. A James Madison transfer, He finished his career at Virginia State with 99 total tackles, 5.5 tackles for loss, 11 interceptions, 39 passes defended, a forced fumble, and a fumble recovery.

At the NFL Combine, he impressed scouts with outstanding performances in the 40-yard dash and the 10-yard split. Drew clocked a 4.46 in the dash, ranking 13th out of 29 cornerbacks. He excelled in the 10-yard split, finishing in 1.49 seconds and tying for third place.

Jeremy Moussa, QB, Florida A&M

Per reports, Jeremy Moussa has received a rookie mini-camp invite with the Tampa Bay Buccaneers. Moussa had an amazing season at the helm of the offense for Willie Simmons and the Rattlers en route to a SWAC Championship and Celebration Bowl victory. He finished his stint with Florida A&M passing for 5,625 yards completing and 43 touchdowns with 58% completion. He also scored three rushing touchdowns and a receiving touchdown.

Jordan Toles, DB, Morgan State

Per reports, Jordan Toles is signing with the Baltimore Ravens. For Toles, a Baltimore native, he gets to stay in the city and play for the home team once again. He excelled in his time with Morgan State following his transfer from LSU. He finished his career for the Bears with 114 total tackles, four interceptions, seven passes deflections, 6.0 tackles for loss, 0.5 sacks, three forced fumbles, and two blocked kicks in his time with the Bears.

Brandon Codrington, DB, North Carolina Central

Per reports, Brandon Codrington has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the New York Jets. Codrington was part of a stout defense for the reigning 2022 Celebration Bowl Champion Eagles. He finished his career with 93 career tackles, 10 pass breakups, one forced fumble, and one fumble recovery. But, he's also adept as a kick & punt returner. He accumulated 1,359 kickoff return yards on 69 attempts and 1 touchdown as well as 789 punt return yards on 61 attempts and three touchdowns. He made history against Winston-Salem State recording an 81-yard punt return, the fourth longest in North Carolina Central football history.

𝐀𝐢𝐝𝐚𝐧 𝐇𝐞𝐦𝐩𝐡𝐢𝐥𝐥, OL, Texas Southern

Per reports, Aidan Hemphill has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the Indianapolis Colts. Hemphill is 6'5″, 290 pounds lineman that can surely protect the quarterback and should find a nice place for himself in the league.

Tairiq Stewart, OL, North Carolina A&T

Per reports, Tairiq Stewart has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the New England Patriots. The Patriots already have an HBCU player on their roster, Jackson State's Isaiah Bolden who was selected by New England last year but suffered a season-ending head injury in the preseason. Stewart has the prime opportunity to join Stewart as the second HBCU alumnus on the Patriots roster.

He's a 6'6″, 300-pound lineman that got significant reps with the Aggies as a right tackle. He can certainly find a place on a Patriots team that looks to move into a new era with UNC alumnus Drake Maye at the helm of the offense.

Michael Chris-Ike, RB, Delaware State

Per reports, Michael Chris-Ike has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the New York Jets. He finished his career with the Hornets rushing for 753 yards and 5 touchdowns on 164 carries.

Marcus Riley, WR, Florida A&M

Brett Siegel · 2 hours ago

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Nathanial Duffett · 5 hours ago

Per reports, Marcus Riley has signed with the New York Jets. A key piece of Florida A&M's run of dominance in the SWAC, Riley finished the season with 34 receptions for 584 yards and 5 touchdowns. He also showed his worth as a punt and kickoff returner, totaling 342 yards and 1 touchdown on 11 attempts. He kicked off the season in grand fashion, scoring an opening kickoff 96-yard return touchdown in the Orange Blossom Classic against the Jackson State Tigers.

Noah Washington, LB, Morgan State

Per reports, Noah Washington has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the Minnesota Vikings. He was a key member of a fearsome Morgan State defense that pulled off a resounding upset of Richmond to start the season. He finished the 2023 season with 35 total tackles (19 solo), two sacks, three fumbles, and three passes defended.

Isaiah Major, LB, Florida A&M

Per reports, Isaiah Major has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the New Orleans Saints. Major was viewed as one of the top prospects in the HBCU pool of players and has the potential to find the same type of success that fellow Rattler Markese Bell has in the NFL. He finished the 2023 season with 106 total tackles (63 solo tackles), 2 sacks, one fumble recovery, two interceptions, five quarterback hits and three pass breakups.

Major is surely a player for HBCU fans to keep their eyes on, as he stands a great chance of making the Saints 53-man roster.

Terrell Jennings, RB, Florida A&M

Per reports, Terrell Jennings has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the New England Patriots. Jennings was an explosive running back for the Rattlers, finishing the 2023 season with 673 yards and 10 touchdowns on 120 attempts. He was also a key factor in Florida A&M's victory in the Celebration Bowl, rushing for 68 yards and one touchdown on 19 attempts.

Patrick Godbolt, LB, South Carolina State

Per reports, Patrick Godbolt has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the New York Jets. Another player developed by legendary coach Buddy Pough, Godbolt was a defensive standout for the Bulldogs. He racked up 37 tackles in his career (23 solo), one interception, three passes defended, and two forced fumbles.

RJ Mobley, WR, Winston-Salem State

Per reports, RJ Mobley has received a rookie mini-camp invite from the Chicago Bears. The former Wingate standout finished the 2023 season for the Rams with 43 receptions for 598 yards and 7 touchdowns.

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Airlines must cough up cancellation cash and can no longer hide fees under new federal rule

A federal rule announced Wednesday will require airlines to quickly give cash refunds — without lengthy arguments — to passengers whose flights have been canceled or seriously delayed, the Biden administration said.

“Passengers deserve to get their money back when an airline owes them — without headaches or haggling,” Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg said in a statement.

The rule from the Transportation Department says passengers who decline other reimbursement like travel credits are to get cash refunds.

It applies when a flight is canceled or has a “significant change,” the administration said.A “significant change” includes when departure or arrival times are three or more hours different from the scheduled times for domestic flights or six hours for international flights, and when the airport is changed or connections are added, it said.

Passengers are also to get refunds when their baggage is 12 hours late in delivery for domestic flights.

The new rule comes after promises to hold airlines accountable after major disruptions that made travel hell for passengers, including the 2022 Southwest Airlines meltdown , which resulted in almost 17,000 significantly delayed or canceled flights and a missing baggage nightmare.

The Transportation Department said that the new rule means refunds are automatic and that "airlines must automatically issue refunds without passengers having to explicitly request them or jump through hoops."

Also announced Wednesday was a rule requiring airlines to more clearly disclose so-called junk fees upfront, such as surprise baggage or other fees, the department said.

It said that rule is expected to save fliers around $500 million a year.

The surprise fees are used so tickets look cheaper than they really are, and then fliers get the unwelcome surprise of fees on checked bags, carry-on bags or reservation changes — or even discounts that are advertised but apply to only part of the ticket price, officials said.

Airlines will also have to tell fliers clearly that their seats are guaranteed and that they don't have to pay extra to ensure they have seats for flights, according to the Transportation Department.

Airlines for America, an industry trade group, said that its member airlines “offer transparency and vast choice to consumers from first search to touchdown” and that they do offer cash refunds.

The 11 largest U.S. airlines returned $10.9 billion in cash refunds last year, an increase over $7.5 billion in 2019 but slightly down from $11.2 billion in 2022, the group said.

“U.S. airlines are providing more options and better services while ticket prices, including ancillary revenues, are at historic lows,” Airlines for America said.

Left out of the federal changes announced Wednesday are those involving "family seating fees," but the Transportation Department said in a statement that "DOT is planning to propose a separate rule that bans airlines from charging these junk fees."

Travelers have complained to the Transportation Department that children weren’t seated next to accompanying adults, including in some cases young children, department officials said last year.

Fees on bags specifically have made up an increasing amount of airline revenues, the Transportation Department said Wednesday in announcing the new rules.

A Transportation Department analysis found that airline revenue from baggage fees increased 30% from 2018 to 2022, while operating revenue — which is from the flights themselves — increased by only half that amount, the department said.

Jay Blackman is an NBC News producer covering such areas as transportation, space, medical and consumer issues.

Phil Helsel is a reporter for NBC News.