pre travel in trigger

Trigger Definitions: Take-Up, Creep, Break, Overtravel, Reset, etc.

When talking about handgun trigger movements, it’s sometimes hard to keep all the terms and definitions straight. I’ll often see questions like “what’s the difference between take-up and creep?” So this quick-reference article will help you understand the differences and always have the correct terms handy. Of course, keep in mind that handgun trigger actions come in various forms (single-action, double-action, DA/SA, striker, etc.), so some terms may only apply to specific types of actions.

For the TL;DR crowd, the sequence goes: Pre-Travel  ( Take-Up > Wall > Creep ) > Break > Over-Travel > Reset .

And for those who’d like a bit more explanation of these terms, read on!

Trigger Pre-Travel

The term Pre-Travel often gets confused with Trigger Take-Up (also called  Trigger Slack ), though they are actually  not the same thing.

Technically,  Pre-Travel is any amount of trigger movement from the trigger’s initial resting position up until the point that the sear breaks and causes the gun to go “bang.”

Take-Up , the Wall, and Creep are all part of  Pre-Travel , so when correctly using the term Pre-Travel , you’d be referring to the combination of those three elements.

Trigger Take-Up (aka Slack)

Technically:  Part of the  Pre-Travel phase, Take-Up is any “positive” (pulling the trigger toward you) movement of the trigger that does not  cause the sear to move and does not engage the mainspring.

What You Feel:  The initial movement from the trigger’s resting position up to the point where you feel resistance (the  Wall ).

Technically:  Part of the  Pre-Travel phase, the Wall is the point where the trigger action first engages the resistance of the sear.

What You Feel: The initial resistance of the sear, which is under load from the mainspring. It requires you to add more pounds of pulling force via your trigger finger to defeat and achieve   the Break .

Trigger Creep

Technically:  Part of the  Pre-Travel phase, and in contrast to Take-Up , Trigger Creep is any positive movement of the trigger that does cause the sear to move and does engage the mainspring.

What You Feel: As you apply additional pulling force at the Wall, the mainspring starts to compress and the sear starts to move.

As the trigger creeps ,  you may be able to feel “steps” (inconsistent movements in the sear) as the sear creeps and stops suddenly, which requires you to add additional pulling force to reach the Break.  The existence of steps are an indicator of what’s called  Trigger Stacking. Trigger Stacking can refer to anything that increases the resistance of the trigger the farther back you pull. Most triggers exhibit some amount of stacking, even if imperceptible, but a trigger that exhibits a noticeable need to pull increasingly harder and harder as you approach the Break  is said to have “stacking issues.”

Though usually referenced in negative terms, Trigger Creep  itself is not necessarily a bad thing. The double-action pull on a DA/SA semi-auto (like a SIG P-Series) or on a double-action revolver is, by design, all Creep. The smoothness (meaning the absence of steps or stacking) of the pull throughout the creep phase is what indicates the quality of the action… not the amount of Creep itself. Double-action triggers, or the DA phase of a DA/SA trigger, are the most susceptible to stacking issues.

When you hear shooters talk about a “gritty” or “mushy” trigger, that usually means it has an inconsistent and unpredictable Creep with multiple steps. A “smooth” trigger experiences no steps or perceivable stacking.

Trigger Break (aka Release)

Technically:  The point of the trigger action where the sear releases the hammer (or the striker, depending on the type of action).

What You Hear and Feel : If the gun is loaded, you’d hear a “bang” and feel an amount of recoil commensurate with the type of round. If the gun isn’t loaded, you’d hear a “click” and feel a small vibration as the mainspring releases its force causing the hammer to fall or the striker to thrust forward.

When you hear shooters talk about a “crisp” or “clean” Break, that usually means that the Break occurs without any (or at least very little) noticeable Creep.

Trigger Over-Travel

Technically:   Over-Travel is any amount of “positive” trigger movement following the Break.

What You Feel:  Continued “positive” movement of the trigger after the Break, without much (if any) resistance, until something mechanically stops the trigger’s positive movement.

If the frame is what stops the Over-Travel , you’ll often see a small mark on the frame where the rear of the trigger hits the frame at the end of Over-Travel . This is common on some SIG P-Series pistols.

Any mechanical device that stops Over-Travel is called a “trigger stop.” Some are adjustable to allow the shooter to control the amount of Over-Travel, and some are fixed. Trigger stops can be mounted on the rear of the trigger itself:

Trigger-mounted trigger stop on a S&W 500

Or on the frame somewhere behind the trigger:

Frame-mounted adjustable trigger stop

Frame-mounted trigger stop

Or even on the trigger so that it stops against the inside of the frame, as with the Grayguns P-Series Adjustable Intermediate Trigger (P-SAIT):

Grayguns P-SAIT trigger

Trigger Reset

Technically: Trigger Reset is the “negative” (trigger moves away from you) or “forward” movement of the trigger to the point that the trigger or trigger bar re-engages the sear (or the striker, depending on the type of action). Another way to think of this is that it’s the motion required for the trigger mechanism to overcome the action of the disconnector which, during semi-auto cycling, has disconnected the trigger from the sear.

What You Feel:  You don’t have to exert any force on the trigger for it to reset, and you’ll feel the pressure of the spring(s) responsible for returning the trigger to its re-engagement point gently pushing against your finger until the sear re-engages.

When you hear shooters talking about a “snappy” Reset, they’re referring to an action that resets quickly. A “sluggish” Reset is one that happens slowly.

The speed and length of the Reset contribute to how quickly follow-up shots can be taken. With a DA/SA action, the Reset returns the trigger to a single-action position, so the mainspring is already compressed. Ideally, there would be minimal Creep for a follow-up single-action shot from this position. Alternatively, you could remove pressure from the trigger and ideally experience no additional “negative” or forward movement of the trigger. However, that’s not always what happens, and releasing all finger pressure from the trigger will often allow the trigger to continue forward, creating a minimal amount of single-action Take-Up (though not anywhere near as much as with a double-action shot). Custom action work is often required to minimize or remove this altogether.

Some manufactures offer kits which can drastically reduce the length of the Reset via a modified sear and safety lever, such as the SIG Sauer Short Reset Trigger Kit (SRT Kit) .

Putting It All Together

Hopefully, this reference guide has helped you better understand the terminology commonly used when referring to trigger actions, and can help you better analyze and understand your own shooting. To sum up again for the TL;DR crowd who may have just skipped to the bottom of the article to find something to copy and paste into a discussion forum or Facebook post, the sequence goes:

Pre-Travel > Break > Over-Travel > Reset

By expanding the Pre-Travel section, we’d get:

Pre-Travel = ( Take-Up > Wall > Creep ) > Break > Over-Travel > Reset

And if we add in all the common synonyms, we’d get:

Pre-Travel = ( Take-Up  = Slack > Wall > Creep ) > Break  = Release > Over-Travel > Reset

Feel free to refer to this guide or the above abbreviated versions when discussing trigger actions. And as always, I welcome your questions, comments, suggested corrections, or feedback below.

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DIY: Eliminate pre-travel

By Jayohee June 4, 2014 in Glock

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Has anyone done this?

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Never seen that.

Tag for more info.

It's seems like a simple solution, but I'm not sure if it's legal for production. It is, however, internal so I'm hoping so. Any seasoned shooters care to chime in?

Just buy a Vanek modified Glock trigger housing. It has over travel and pre travel adjustments and isn't a permanent modification like this one is.

Either would be production legal since they are internal.

remoandiris

Just buy a Vanek modified Glock trigger housing. It has over travel and pre travel adjustments and isn't a permanent modification like this one is. Either would be production legal since they are internal.

^^THIS^^. No worries about dorking up the frame and if you don't like the feel, remove it.

How does pre-travel adjustment in a trigger housing work? I understand how over-travel adjustment can work...but not pre-travel (thought that had to be cared for at the trigger bar.)

bigtimelarry

I have one of Vanek's Pre-Travel / Overtravel Housing. It's nice, it has a screw in front of the housing and one in back of the housing. $ 35.95

http://www.vanekcustom.com/4.html

I would never do this mod from the video. However you can bend the drop leg on the trigger bar forward some to remove pre-travel, simple mod and will only mess up a trigger bar if you mess it up. I've done this to several of my guns with good luck. I only remove a little so I don't have to trim or mess with the safeties, but it makes getting on the trigger a little easier I think. There was a thread on here that shows how this is done. I have some pictures somewhere too.

Put the trigger bar in a vise. Heat the portion that has a bend above where the trigger spring connects and bend it forward slightly and let it cool.

most folks offering pre & post travel reductions drill small holes in the front and back of the trigger housing and install small set screws. You adjust the screws to reduce the amount of travel of the cruciform in the housing. This reduces pre/post-travel.

Works well...haven't had any issues with mine in 1,000's of rounds.

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Trigger pre-travel / over-travel screws

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Is there a method for finding the sweet spots on the pre-travel and over-travel screws on target triggers? I drilled and tapped my factory trigger for pre-travel and over-travel adjustment, but I don't know squat about setting them for the best result. I did manage to get them too far out and cause the trigger to not reset. Atleast that is what I think is going on. Which screw (or both) affect the ability to for the trigger to reset after firing? Is there a way I can test my adjustments with the barrel off, using thumb pressure on the hammer? Both of my screws are adjustable when fully assembled, so if that's the best way, I can do that. Any advice?  

The pretravel screw affects reset. I use 40 tpi screws. I make the initial adjustment of the pretravel screw with the top off. Adjust the screw to the point where the trigger is pretty far back; to the point where you know the disconnector will not reset. Pull trigger, push disconnector down, then release trigger. If the disconnector resets crank the screw out more. If it does not (and that is what you want) slowly back out the screw until the disconnector just resets, then turn an additional 1/8 turn. You will probably find this adjustment will be where you will leave it. Pretravel tends to decrease as the pistol heats up, and will sometimes decrease on the last round in the magazine, so you need to leave some pretravel. When adjusting a post travel screw, likewise allow a hint of post-travel. If you don't you may find yourself forcing clearances which will increase the pull weight. The post travel can be adjusted with the top off, but sometimes the amount of post travel will increase when the hammer is under mainspring pressure rather than thumb pressure. When adjusting post travel be careful not to apply any more pressure to the trigger than the normal pull weight.  

Thanks for the info. I have a Sam Bushing on the way and a VQ sear laying here waiting for install. I'll adjust the trigger when I do the installs. I used 40 tpi screws too. The tolerances changing during shooting makes sense now. I had adjusted the screw to the point that the gun was shooting, but after several mags I had to back the screws out more because the trigger quit resetting.  

Put some blue loctite in the screws after you get them set as they will walk out of adjustment if you don't...  

I set the over travel screw with the barrel off the frame. I want to make sure the sear clears the hammer when the trigger is pulled. I set the pre-travel to a minimum, just enough to allow the disconnect to re-set and a smidge more. I put blue locktite on both trigger screws.  

i wold also like to do this with my 22/45 what size drill bit and tap are you guys using. thanks  

Really now...simple google search... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_and_tap_size_chart http://engineersedge.com/tap_drill_chart.htm  

To adjust my screws I do this: For the overtravel screw I cock the hammer and thread the OT screw in farther than needed. I then pull the trigger as I back the screw out, and stop once the hammer drops. I then take another 1/4turn or so out. For pre travel I pull the trigger back and hold it down while I cock the hammer. Then I thread the PT screw in farther than needed and then let off the trigger. I then begin to unscrew the PT screw untill I hear the disco reset. Again it might be wise to go another 1/4 turn or so. I use 6x32 in my Ruger pistol triggers, others I might use 8x32.  

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Trigger Pre-Travel

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Working the bugs out of my new citori cx. One thing I noticed is a remarkable amount of slop in the triggers. It appears that there is about a quarter inch of pre-travel or slop in the trigger. In other words, there is a loose 1/4" of travel before I get to the hard part of the trigger pull. That's going to take some getting used to... especially on true pairs. It's pretty easy to pre-load the trigger on the first shot, but I find myself having something of an epileptic fit trying to get the second shot off. Is this common with Brownings, or do I have something else going on?  

Citori shotguns don't generally come from the factory with a crisp trigger, but neither do most other shotguns either. I guess it depends on what you're comparing the trigger to, but I don't find the Citori to have any worse trigger than a similarly priced O/U shotgun of any other make. And Citori's are generally much better in the trigger crispness than most autoloaders. You can have the trigger worked on to reduce the "creep" or "takeup", but I suggest you shoot the gun for 1,000 rounds or so to become accustomed to it. After all, shotgun shooting is much different from rifle or pistol shooting, especially with regard to trigger control.  

I suppose your right, it just seems like my usual trigger slap has some delay.  

Sounds like you may be trapping the trigger, it is somewhat common with Brownings until you get used to it. Give this a read... http://shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=254967  

Citori triggers are pretty dire and Cynergy triggers are even worse but they can be made better for a reasonable cost. Having said that it's beyond me why Miroku can't do a better job at the factory. Beretta 68x/69x triggers are a more elegant design and are a lot crisper but often very heavy (a problem that seems to be spreading to Blaser). Of the popular mid range guns, CGs have by far the best trigger pulls but you'll get used to the Browning in time and then you won't even notice the free play.  

Well, I'll get my two cents worth in here: I bought a 1999 Browning Citori White Lightning 12 gauge when it was new. The trigger only has - maybe an 1/8" take up, or a little less - and it breaks at 4 1/2 pounds on both barrels. Maybe Browning has changed the specs since then....??  

I have Citori Skeets (vintage 1978 - 1992) in all four gauges. All of them have very minimal take-up and none of them break at more than four pounds. A couple of shooting companions have Guerinis and a couple have K-guns and their triggers are no better than my vintage Citoris.  

Terrapin said: Is this common with Brownings, or do I have something else going on? Click to expand...

FnErter said: I have Citori Skeets (vintage 1978 - 1992) in all four gauges. All of them have very minimal take-up and none of them break at more than four pounds. A couple of shooting companions have Guerinis and a couple have K-guns and their triggers are no better than my vintage Citoris. Click to expand...

I'm getting used to it... it's almost like preloading a revolver trigger. The first couple of outings I would pound the trigger on fast doubles so hard the arthritis flares up in my trigger finger (and I'm only 42). I suppose it takes a while to get used to anything new. It has been kind of painful to miss a couple low 1's, 2's and a high 7.  

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You like trigger pretravel??

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Just going though my guns and notice I have all set with about 2mm pretravel, and 3mm overtravel. Anywhere from 1.3lbs(Ruger mkiii), to 2.75lbs pull on my browns. The Volquartsen trigger had pretravel adjustment and I made it 2mm. I could have made none, but I like knowing that stopping point before the sear let's the hammer drop. Do any of you like 0 pretravel? Doesn't it feel odd to you if a trigger has 0 pretravel and just breaks from right where it always is? Just curious on opinions.  

A 1911 needs some pretravel for safe, reliable function. .040" is about right IMO.  

Well said, and true.  

Hard to prep the trigger with no pre-travel. Besides being unsafe, as WilsonCombatRep stated, it is pretty weird feeling when you are used to pre-travel. I had a trigger done on a 1911 once and it came out of the shop with no pre-travel. I got it fixed. Didn't use that person again.  

My ruger mkIII has 2lb trigger with 15ths pretravel and a over travel is set to bump with with in a couple th's. My CC pistols are a died smooth DA trigger but with 10ths over travel ,6lbs at the touch. But my hunting revolver given time to use the SA trigger pull are very light with no pretravel or over travel. Like my hunting rifles. A new 1911 i have .35ths pre travel, over travel is only 22ths . Took it apart today to smooth and polish the trigger group parts to get the grittiness out of it still has the same 5 1/2lb trigger pull. . Seems like 2mm to 3mm is a lot of wiggle room.  

After years of shooting SA pistols, it took me awhile to get used to triggers with pre-travel, a couple of my rifles had set triggers in them back in the day and they are the nuts. I don't think they have any travel. I know there is some but man, once you set that front trigger, we are just talking a touch. One of my older silhouette pistols, a rear grip Wichita in 308, had a 2 oz Canjar trigger that you had to sneak up on to get a planned discharge. These days, my favorite trigger is the 2 stage trigger that came with my Knights Armament SR-15. Yeah, there is a lot of movement but it breaks clean as a whistle and right at 4 lbs.  

I think pretravel and engagement are being confused in some of this.Pretravel is free movement before everything is touching to disengage the sear from the hammer or what-have-you.Similar to the first trigger of the set trigger gun.That second trigger is post pretravel that drops the hammer.While that stage feels like there isn't anything there,there is.The set trigger was a bad analogy I think because it's dealing with engagement,where a pistol is different.Pistols have free slack for pretravel. In a 1911,there's basically no pressure other than maybe a lb. tops of pretevel,and it's there for a reason.After that,the real poundage is there to disengage the sear,which is anywhere from .010-.024" plus a few thou to clear the 1/2 cock notch.Anything else is overtravel.This depends on how the gun was built of course,a mil-spec isn't going to feel near as good as a well tuned trigger,and there's a bit of ground between the 2.  

Way back when... ...it wasn't uncommon to have a bit of a 'feeler gauge' shim silver soldered onto the back of the trigger stirrup. That would reduce trigger 'pre-travel' by the thickness of the soldered on shim. It was kinda important to stay off the trigger 'till the target was turning to face the ffiring line. salty  

One of the purposes pretravel serves, IIRC, is as a tolerance for dirt or grime. If you get a bit of gunk up in front of the trigger, it needs some space to be able to return to its resting position.  

I can see that in the orignal design and purpose of a combat arm.Pretravel is still a requirement today though for safety reasons,it avoids trigger bounce.When the slide goes back into battery the gun jumps foward,and early tuned triggers were tripping the sear loading the first round.Hence the "bullseye" guns were loaded by holding the trigger back and cured the problem.You still hear of trigger bump while firing,that's caused by little pretravel and your finger bumps the trigger with the back to battery lunge. The trigger system in a 1911 must have pretravel or it's dangerous and borderline illegal of being a full auto.Some designs can have no pretravel,some must have it.  

I've got 2mm of pretravel on my 1911, seem about right for me. 0 pretravel just seems like an accident pending.  

I learned on revolvers. Those who also did figured out real quick how to stage a trigger for consistent ignition. So I prefer pretravel in a single stage trigger. What I can't stand and won't tolerate is creep.  

Hi, Yes I like pretravel! I especially prefer pretravel on my 2 stage match pistol triggers. I also prefer it on my single stage triggers as well. Tony  

I don't think I have shot any weapon that didn't have some "pretravel". A small amount is OK with me. Having said that, I can't deal with the "seams like " 1 " of travel on the DA triggers. I haven't fired one that had a predictable trigger. I can make jagged hole groups with SA weapons, there is no such groups for me with the DAs. As little pretravel as possible and a clean, crisp break makes me happy. I am a big fan of predictable, safe and lite triggers.  

I also think 1911s need some to be safe. Set triggers on rifles are different story.  

rex, Yessir, we did that. On occasion, I still do. Old habits and all the excess baggage those habits bring can be difficult to ignore. The center leg on the leaf spring probabally carried a bit more fwd pressure that today's versions of a 'trigger job'. Bounce seemed to be specially bad on the wide, heavy steel Gold Cup triggers of that time or those Center Fire pistols equiped with a steel Trigger Shoe. My only 5 round 'burrrp' was with a 'tricked out' Gold Cup that had a legimate 3.5 lb wide, heavy Gold Cup trigger. The only consolation was that the first round was a skidder 10. salty  

My comp pistols have trigger pull at 1.8 lbs.with very little takeup. Not much need to "prep" the trigger, it's prepreped!  

I'll count myself among those who don't really notice pretravel or overtravel. I do like a long trigger, but if it moves .05" or .10" before the trigger, disconnector and sear come together? My finger apparently is not accurate to .05". I don't think I've ever owned one of those triggers with the little tab(s) for adjusting pre-travel, and don't know that I'd mess with it, if I did. I generally do adjust all of my triggers for the same amount of overtravel (additional half-turn after sear/halfcock contact disappears), but even that is more about having enough, than any sort of "feel" that I expect. One time, the overtravel screw was backing-out, and I didn't notice until it allowed the trigger to push the sear spring off the disconnector and go burst-fire mode.  

I also prefer a couple millimeters of pre-travel. Much more than that becomes a distraction.  

I like a little bit of pre-travel or take-up. I like being able to apply pressure to the trigger until I feel the exact engagement point of where it breaks. And on 1911s it usually breaks in one crisp click like breaking a cracker in half.  

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• Sig Sauer Triggers

P320® Pretravel Stop

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Product Overview

This stainless steel pretravel stop is fixed and preset at the minimum allowable pretravel to achieve full striker safety margins which reduces pretravel by 50% compared to stock (Standard pretravel stop). Compatible with OEM P320 triggers (curved, flat, and flat skeletonized). Also compatible with aftermarket triggers that maintain stock pretravel distance. Not compatible with aftermarket trigger bars and should only be used with an OEM trigger bar marked “576” (available in newer FCUs). The competition pretravel stop is set to provide maximum pretravel reduction while still achieving striker safety function with reduced margin.

In stock and ships within 1 to 2 business days.

Disclaimer:   This part should be installed by a certified and knowledgeable gunsmith. Due to tolerance variations between guns, safety and reliability margins should be inspected during installation and periodically thereafter during maintenance. Striker safety margin should be inspected to verify greater than 1/16 inch pretravel is present before the striker safety is defeated. Tactical Trigger, LLC assumes no liability for installation or use of this product. 

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P320 pretravel stop.

Posted by Steve on 31st Mar 2023

Functions well and was easy to install.

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Adjust trigger for pre travel.

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Any tricks to adjust the little tabs on the trigger bow, without bending bow & shoe out of whack ?  

Any tricks ? I just used a pair of needle nose pliers.  

This. I have found the the grip safety engagement can be affected when you make this adjustment. Red Dirt triggers are using an allen set screw to adjust this area.  

I slide it in the channel backwards with the frame in a vise to hold it secure. It doesn't take much.  

What collector said. Some trigger that have the take up tabs aren't fully severed, those can be a pain to get free to bend. A small flat blade screwdriver seems to get those popped loose without distorting trigger bow, use smooth jaw needle noses to hold stirrup right behind tabs. That way you aren't flexing the whole trigger when bending those out.  

A setscrew to adjust pretravel, I gotta see this. Fit the trigger normal then bend the tabs a touch forward and test. Need more push the back of the bow forward a touch and test, when you're there make sure you're initial fit is there.worst you can do is spread the bow to drag the trigger slot but easily fixable. Also bending the tabs forward being lackluster about it is also an easy cure if you're good with a small hammer and dolly if you don't have the trigger stirrup die. Fitting a trigger in the frame is easy, it's the things behind it that is where it can be easy but requires much more knowledge of how they mate together to work correctly and safely. The trigger needs pretravel by design of about .030 and you need some overtavel or you can have issues.  

Rex said: A setscrew to adjust pretravel, I gotta see this. Click to expand...

Thanks I'll have to check that out later, haven't touched a widebody so far.  

I have found the the grip safety engagement can be affected when you make this adjustment. [/QUOTE] Yes, you will need to file some metal off the blocking arm of the GS if it does.  

Thanks for the info.  

The grip safety should have nothing to do with pretravel of the trigger. The GS is there to prevent the trigger from getting into the disconnector or if 'loose' the dis can't touch the sear, pretravel happens before this point and can be whatever you want. Let me amend this, most factory safeties I've seen have some play and aren't right on the trigger. I've been down to .020 pretravel and didn't have to touch the safety, but it was right there now.  

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Sig Sauer P365 IntelliFire™ Trigger

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Introducing the Tyrant CNC IntelliFire™ Trigger System for SIG SAUER P365 What could be better than a SIG SAUER P365? How about a P365 with the Tyrant CNC IntelliFire™ dual safety blade action trigger, with a solid 90 degree break AND 30% less pre-travel/take up! The SIG SAUER P365 has made waves in the concealed carry world, revered for its compact size and powerful punch. Whether you're a seasoned professional or an everyday carrier, reliability is key. The Tyrant CNC IntelliFire™ Trigger System, specifically tailored for the P365, pushes the boundaries of what you can expect from aftermarket trigger enhancements. In the realm of firearm customization, the trigger plays a pivotal role, influencing both the firearm's performance and the safety of its operator. Although a capable and favored handgun, the Sig P365 lacks the traditionally-used safety feature; the trigger safety. Tyrant CNC, fully recognizing the importance and demand for additional safety features, crafted the IntelliFire™ Trigger System with aerospace-like precision, ensuring it integrates seamlessly with the SIG SAUER P365. Crafted for Durability and Precision Built to withstand the daily rigors of use and ensure peak performance, the trigger boasts a robust 12L14 steel body. Lightweight 6061 aluminum safety blades further accentuate its durability and precision. A Stainless steel and heat-treated internal spring ensures reliability of use that will outlive the firearms duty cycle.  Safety First: A Dual Safety Blade System Safety in firearms is non-negotiable. The standout feature of this trigger is its patent-pending dual safety blade system. The OEM Grip module of the P365 offers only a narrow window of clearance, making traditional safety blade designs impossible to function. This is where the genius of Tyrant CNC shines. Through innovative geometry and a specialized spring, the IntelliFire™ safety blade system utilizes a 3:1 lever ratio in order to clear the grip module when activated. However, if the front blade remains undepressed, the rear blade will directly impact the 365 Grip Module preventing the firing pin from dropping and enhancing safety. Reduced Pre-Travel & Hybrid Ergonomics The trigger facilitates a 30% reduction in pre-travel, ensuring a smoother and quicker shooting experience without compromising on safety. Further enhancing the user experience, Tyrant CNC incorporates its signature hybrid trigger ergonomics, featuring a flat face with a subtle bottom curve – the ideal blend for optimal performance. Experience a consistent break at the 90 degree angle, making your initial AND follow up shots the closest groupings you can have.  With the Tyrant CNC IntelliFire™ Trigger System, you're investing in unmatched engineering and an unwavering focus on safety. Elevate your confidence in daily or concealed carry, especially for those favoring appendix carry, and arm your SIG SAUER P365 with cutting-edge trigger technology.

First ever trigger safety system for SIG P365, patent-pending technology

30% reduced trigger pre-travel (maximum that can be done without disengaging SIG internal safety)

90 degree break for maximum consistency on initial AND follow-up shots

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How Annika Sorenstam influenced Alexa Pano's pre-shot routine

I f you’re looking for a way to add consistency to your game, developing an ingrained pre-shot routine is a good place to start. And for 19-year-old rising LPGA star Alexa Pano , it was a memorable clinic with LPGA legend Annika Sorenstam that solidified Pano’s desire to make a consistent pre-shot routine a part of every single shot.

“I became really repetitive with my pre-shot routine after hearing Annika talk about hers, and her ‘Think Box/Play Box sort of thing,” Pano said on the range at the recent Ford Championship .

(The Think Box/Play Box is a concept developed by Top 100 Teachers Pia Nilsson and Lynn Marriott, who worked with Sorenstam. The ‘Think Box’ refers to an area behind your ball where you analyze the factors that will affect your shot, like wind, yardage, etc. Once you’ve settled on a club and target, you move into the ‘Play Box,’ and your address position, which is meant for action only - no more thinking!)

“I did a clinic with her one time and we were discussing our triggers to get into the Play Box,” Pano continued. “And so ever since then, I’ve been kind of doing the same thing over and over again. When I kind of touch the ground with my driver after that, I know like that’s when we’re in the Play Box, and I’m focused and getting a really repetitive routine makes me more confident off the tee.”

Pano said her pre-shot routine involves an initial line up, two practice swings, and then it’s into the Play Box.

“I line up with my club, and then as I’m walking into it, I touch the ground with the club, and then kind of lean into it and then step into my shot,” she said. “Touching the ground with the club is kind of like a trigger for me to get really focused over it rather than thinking about everything else.”

Triggers can be personal, and vary by player. Some might like to waggle instead.

“I didn’t even start doing it intentionally, but it became intentional after I’d been doing it for a long time,” Pano said. “I’ve been to a lot of [Sorenstam’s] clinics just through junior golf and stuff, and hearing her talk about how important that was for her, if something’s important to Annika, it should probably be important to you.”

Pano estimates that she’s spent about five years incorporating the same pre-shot routine, which has paid dividends.

“I used to struggle with my drive a bit,” Pano said, “and this routine has made me very confident over every drive that I get over.”

The post How Annika Sorenstam influenced Alexa Pano’s pre-shot routine appeared first on Golf .

Ukraine-Russia war latest: Fighting 'intensifies in eastern Ukraine as troops fall back'; UK estimates 450,000 Russian losses since war began

Gen Oleksandr Syrskyi says his troops have taken up new positions west of Berdychi, Semenivka and Novomykhailivka in order to conserve their forces while armed forces minister Leo Docherty tells the UK Defence Journal tens of thousands have deserted Russian's military since February 2022.

Sunday 28 April 2024 19:15, UK

• Fighting intensifies in eastern Ukraine as troops fall back
• UK minister estimates 450,000 Russian losses since war began
• Tajikistan citizens warned not to travel to Russia
• 'Well-provisioned' Ukrainian troops could prevent Russian advances
• Russia destroys 17 drones launched by Ukraine
• Explained : Why is Chasiv Yar the next target for Russia?
• Your questions answered: Will Ukraine launch another spring offensive?
• Listen to the Sky News Daily above and  tap here  to follow wherever you get your podcasts
• Live reporting by  Emily Mee  and, earlier, Lauren Russell

A priest sprinkles holy water on believers holding willow branches during an Orthodox Palm Sunday service. 

The service is being held in Donetsk, in an area occupied by Russian forces. 

Russia gained full control of the city of Donetsk in October 2022, but the area has been a major site of fighting since 2014. 

The majority of people in Ukraine are Orthodox Christian, although they follow different branches. 

As we've been reporting, Russia has been pushing forward in Ukraine's eastern Donetsk region. 

Ukrainian military officials say their troops are falling back to new positions in at least three places along the frontlines. 

But they are facing public criticism about the transparency of their military updates. 

Ukrainian military blogger Myroshnykov and Ukraine's DeepState monitoring group, which updates daily changes in frontline positions, both say the updates have been unrealistic. 

DeepState shared a video on social media of a Russian soldier being killed in a drone strike in the village of Soloviove, arguing such footage was being used to mask a bigger picture. 

"You can watch with pleasure forever the video of a Russian [soldier] being torn to pieces, but nearby there is another location that requires attention: Muscovites calmly moving around the village, keeping it under control. 

"The [Ukrainian] Defence Forces inflict fire damage on them, and one can repeat at least a billion times that two-thirds of the village is under the control of the Ukrainian military, but the picture of reality is completely different." 

It appeared to be referring to a statement from Nazar Voloshyn, a spokesperson for Ukraine's military in the east, who also said the nearby village of Ocheretyne was still two-thirds controlled by Ukraine. 

However, DeepState says it believes Russian troops have been in control of the centre of Ocheretyne for at least three days. 

The site accused some military spokespersons of incompetence last week. 

Police have arrested a 57-year-old Russian on suspicion of murder following the killings yesterday evening, German news agency dpa reported. 

The two Ukrainians were 23 and 36 years old, and lived in the southern German county of Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

They were killed at a shopping centre in the village of Murnau in Upper Bavaria.

The names of the victims and suspect have not been released due to German privacy rules. 

It is not clear if the men knew each other. 

More than one million Ukrainian refugees fled to Germany following Russia's invasion of Ukraine in 2022. 

Donald Trump's stance on Ukraine is "not as black and white as some people think", the Polish foreign minister has said. 

The former US president, who is running for election again this year, has said he will not commit to providing Ukraine with defence assistance. 

Republicans aligned with Mr Trump were also the reason behind a six-month delay to aid for Ukraine. 

But foreign minister Radoslaw Sikorski said in an interview with the Axel Springer media company that Mr Trump had sent Ukraine anti-tank missiles before Russia's invasion "when others were not doing it". 

He was referring to Javelin anti-tank missiles supplied by the US in 2018. 

Mr Sikorski also said Mr Trump was "right in urging us all in Europe to spend more on defence".

He said he "did not hear any protests from Trump" once the $61bn aid package for Ukraine was approved. 

"So, I hope that candidate Trump has seen that this opposition to helping Ukraine is not actually popular in the United States, that it is harming his chances [to be re-elected]," he added.

Earlier we reported that a top Ukrainian general said troops had fallen back from three villages in the east of the country. 

We can now bring you more from Oleksandr Syrskyi, the chief of Ukraine's armed forces, about the situation on the ground.

Mr Syrskyi said the Donetsk region (in the east) remains one of the hottest sectors of the frontline as Russia continues its offensive.

He described the situation in the eastern cities of Pokrovsk and Kurakhove as "the most difficult one" now.

Russia is reportedly using up to four brigades (anywhere from an estimated 8,000 to 32,000 personnel) to conduct assault operations in the direction of both the cities, which lie west of Avdiivka, which was captured earlier this year. 

Mr Syrskyi said the situation is changing "dynamically" on the frontline as a result. 

Meanwhile, Mr Syrskyi said the situation in the south also remains "intense" as Russia tries to advance near the village of Krynky in Kherson.

It also wants to advance towards the villages of Robotyne and Verbove villages in Zaporizhzhia.

Since 2023, there's been a record 30% increase in Russian men aged 31-59 with disabilities, the UK's Ministry of Defence says.

In data provided by the MoD, there were 2.17 million Russian men aged 31-59 with disabilities, up from 1.67 million the year before. 

It said the increase may be down to a growth in military casualties.

Two people have been injured after Russian strikes in the cities of Kupiansk and Vovchansk, local authorities have said.

A 52-year-old was taken to hospital for treatment after being injured, the military administration in Kharkiv said. 

Meanwhile, a 36-year-old woman was trapped under rubble and was given medical care after being rescued. 

Both cities are in the region of Kharkiv with Vovchansk close to the Russian border and frontline, while Kupiansk is crucial for logistics. 

Fighting in eastern Ukraine has worsened, with troops falling back to new positions in at least three places along the frontlines, Ukraine's top general has said.

Oleksandr Syrskyi said in a statement on the Telegram messaging app that his troops had taken up new positions west of the villages of Berdychi, Semenivka and Novomykhailivka in order to conserve their forces. 

All three villages are in the Donetsk region of Ukraine. 

Mr Syrskyi said Russian troops "achieved certain tactical successes in these areas, but could not gain operational advantages".

Earlier, we reported that the Russian defence ministry claimed that they had taken the village of Novobakhmutivka which is in the same region.

Ukraine has not commented on the claim.

Led by a 68-year-old commander known as Grandpa, Ukraine's Steppe Wolves unit, is made up of volunteers who are considered too old to fight - but still want to.

Staying behind the frontline, the mobile artillery unit use truck-mounted rocket launchers, take orders from field commanders and work with other troops, contributing to the war effort despite lacking official support from the military.

"We... get by thanks to the pension fund," commander Oleksandr Taran said.

The unit also depends on donations, in order to repair faulty rounds and capture weapons from the enemy. 

Mr Taran said his unit has been attempting to officially join Ukraine's armed forces to directly receive ammunition - and salaries - but has so far been unsuccessful.

Younger men who have been ruled unfit to fight have also joined Mr Taran's unit. 

Estimates by the UK's minister for the armed forces say 450,000 Russian military personnel have been killed or wounded in Ukraine.

Leo Docherty told the UK Defence Journal that in addition to those killed, tens of thousands of people have deserted the Russian military since the start of the war in February 2022.

He said he did not know the number of personnel that were killed serving in Russian private military companies like the Wagner Group.

Turning his attention to estimates on weapons, Mr Docherty said over 10,000 Russian armoured vehicles, including nearly 3,000 main battle tanks, 109 fixed wing aircraft, 136 helicopters, 346 unmanned aerial vehicles, 23 naval vessels of all classes, and over 1,500 artillery systems have been destroyed, abandoned or captured by Ukraine in over two years.

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