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Results have arrived, bike stem adjustment: how to change or adjust your bike stem.

Your bike stem controls your handlebar height and reach, and your overall riding position. We explain how to bike stems work, and how to adjust or change your handlebars and stem at home.

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Sep 28, 2022

Posted in: Gravel

After picking the right frame size and setting your saddle height, adjusting your bike stem is the most important part of dialing in your fit. If your bike’s cockpit feels too stretched out, cramped, too high, or too low, try tweaking your stem. It’s also useful to know how to adjust a stem if you ever need to straighten out crooked handlebars after a crash. (Hopefully, you’ll keep the rubber side down!) 

Here is how a bike stem works and how to adjust or change the stem on any modern road, gravel, or mountain bike. 

[button] SHOP STEMS [/button] | [button] SHOP BIKES [/button]

Bike stems explained

Before we get started, let’s cover the basic anatomy of a stem, specifically a modern “threadless” stem. Modern threadless stems will look similar to the stem shown here. If you’re riding a bike made within the last 20 years, this should be the type of stem on your bike. 

Note: this guide does not apply to proprietary or integrated stems found on some aero road bikes. 

Tools needed

-Hex wrenches  -Torque wrench

[product-block handle="bondhus-ball-end-l-hex-wrench-set-1"/]

To adjust or change a stem, you will need one or two hex wrenches. Most stems and top cap bolts use 4mm or 5mm hex bolts. Some stems (Zipp stems, for example) will require a T25 Torx wrench. 

[product-block handle="pedros-fixed-torque-driver"/]

It's always a good idea to use a torque wrench when tightening your stem bolts, especially if you have carbon handlebars or a fork with a carbon steerer. Over-tightening bolts will damage carbon components.    

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How to remove and install bike handlebars

When reinstalling the faceplate and handlebars, tighten the faceplate bolts in an X-pattern to ensure they are tightened evenly. Unless the stem manufacturer states otherwise, make sure the gap between the faceplate and stem is equal top and bottom. Use a torque wrench to torque the faceplate bolts to the recommended spec (usually 5 Newton meters). 

You can also simply loosen your stem bolts to adjust your handlebar angle and tighten them back up when you’re happy with the new position.

Note: If you are installing carbon handlebars, apply carbon assembly paste where the handlebars contact the stem. 

How to remove a bike stem and adjust handlebar height

You can adjust handlebar height without removing the handlebars. You will only need to remove the handlebars if you are flipping the stem or replacing it entirely. I prefer doing this with the bike on the ground. This makes it easier to align the handlebars at the end, and it keeps the fork from falling out of the frame when you loosen the steerer clamp bolts and remove the top cap. 

Note: Most bike manufacturers recommend having no more than 30mm of spacers below the stem and no more than 10mm of spacers above the stem. It’s fine to have more than 10mm of spacers above the stem when testing lower riding positions, but it’s best to cut the steerer tube shorter when you’ve determined a permanent stem position.  

Once you’ve arranged the stem and spacers to achieve your desired stem position, you can reinstall your top cap and top cap bolt. 

Note: The top bolt of the stem’s steerer clamp should NEVER be above the top of the fork’s steerer tube. If it is, you need to lower your stem. For safety, always ensure the stem’s steerer clamp has full contact with the steerer tube.

Align the stem with the front wheel. 

With the steerer clamp bolts tightened, you’re done! The stem’s steerer clamp is what actually holds the whole headset together. Theoretically, you could remove the top cap and top cap bolt after tightening the steerer clamp bolts, and the bike will still steer and function normally — but don’t do this! 

Once you’ve tried these basic steps to adjust your stem, it should be quick and easy to change your riding position to get the perfect fit. 

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Bontrager RSL Blendr Stem review

No clutter on the handlebars and perfectly centred accessories sounds great, but does it work.

Cyclingnews Verdict

An excellent option if your needs line up. Double check though, because making changes takes a bit of time and it’s not as universal as the concept sounds. The strongest pull for this design is going to come from those who have a desire to stick with Trek products for a matching look.

Light, stiff, carbon stem

Price of the stem includes mounting pieces

Plenty of stiffness even over rough gravel roads

Captured screws make for easier installation

Making configuration changes requires removal of handlebars

No Wahoo adapter included or available from Bontrager

Included mount places the computer too high

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

Modern cycling often means accessories on the handlebars. Mounting those accessories is a challenge that has given rise to a wide breadth of manufacturers with innovative solutions. Brands such as K-Edge and Bar Fly have filled a need and created mounts that handle everything you could need. What those solutions tend to have in common is that they are an add-on. 

If you are looking to upgrade to something from our list of the best road handlebars you might be replacing your stem anyway. Why not choose a stem with an integrated mounting solution? It could clean up the front of the bike and keep your accessories mounted to the exact centre of the bike. If you are picky about how your bike looks there's a certain draw but it has to work. With that in mind, we spent time with the Bontrager RSL Blendr stem understanding how it works and what it does best. If you like the sound of simplifying the front of your bike, keep reading to see our thoughts on the Bontrager take on a solution. 

Design and aesthetics

Let's be honest here, you could use an alloy stem and get similar performance for a lot less money. Bontrager itself offers the Pro Blendr stem with the same features for less than half the price. The RSL Blendr stem does win on weight, saving 13 grams with a weight of 120 grams for a 100mm stem, but that's an awful small difference for the price. There is also some additional stiffness and better vibration reduction possible with carbon but that's not why it makes sense for some people.

In most situations, this is an emotional purchase. It's all about matching the style and looking great on your bike. That's okay, those are important considerations also. Your bike is a collection of design choices that lead to high performance and there are certain pieces that make sense to keep matching. A stem is one of those pieces and the Bontrager RSL Blendr stem is a choice you won't regret making. 

Staring at your stem while making your way up yet another climb is sure to bring a bit of joy when it looks this good. The shapes are smooth and organic with elegant curves and valleys. The finish is a matte black that somehow manages to ward off fingerprints that are common to finishes of this style. It's not completely impervious but it's not a magnet either. From the top, these are the features you will spend time staring at.  

Off the bike, you can take in the other details. Sitting in contrast to the matte black is glossy, bronze, metallic text. On either side is a large RSL wordmark while the underside displays the text "Race Shop Limited." The text on the sides reads in the same direction so keep that in mind if you are considering switching the direction of the 7-degree angle. On the other hand, if you were to swap it, you'd have the pleasure of regularly seeing the elegant typesetting of the otherwise hidden "Race Shop Limited" text. 

At the front of the stem are the pieces that make everything the Blendr integration work. Instead of a connected faceplate the RSL stem holds the bars with a pair of bands. That leaves the centre section free for either a single, or double, Blendr mount. What you can't see is that moulded into the carbon at the top and bottom is a small space where tabs on the nylon mount fit into the stem. You'll need to remove the bars to fit the mounts but once in place they are flush and completely secure. 

Performance

The first thing you'll need to deal with is setting up the Bontrager RSL Blendr stem in a way that makes sense for you. You can run it with no mounts installed and no one would think something is missing. That's not really the point though so you'll want to think about what makes sense. 

It is actually possible to snap the Blendr mounts onto the bars without removing them. You can't fit the tabs into the pockets that secure them though and the mounts aren't secure like this. That means if you want to make a configuration change you've got to remove the bars. Not a huge deal but it will mean getting out your torque wrench and getting the angle of the bars just right again. 

This is further complicated by the fact that you have to choose between a double and single base mount. In the box you only get the mono base but if you'd like to mount two accessories, you'll need the duo base. That means if you want both a light and a computer at the same time, or a computer and a camera is another possibility, then you'll need to make another purchase.

Once you've made a choice of base everything from that point bolts on without much trouble. You'll have a Garmin high mount and an ion mount on hand without any extra purchases. There are some details about those pieces though. The Ion mount is too short to work with the Ion Pro RT so expect to use that with the Ion 200 RT. Meanwhile, the Garmin mount will put the computer up above the bars and there is no Wahoo mount available. If you want to keep the computer in front of the bars you can flip the base so the mount is lower but that only works for a single accessory and won't fit a 1030 series Garmin. If you want to run Wahoo you'll want to either pick up the Garmin mount adapter from them or look for a third-party Blendr mount. 

For most people this dance of figuring out how to make things work isn't going to be an ongoing problem. It's rare to switch computers and if you think through how things are going to fit before torquing down the bars you'll find something that works. It does pose a problem for occasional use of a light though. You'd need the Duo base to run a light but many people only sometimes run a light. In that scenario adding a light would require removing the handlebars or leaving the Duo installed and ruining the clean look you were after. 

Assuming you find the setup that works for your needs though, it does work. The first ride I took it on took me on a 27-mile road ride before getting to the gravel. The road offers the possibility of small but high frequency vibration. Although the larger tyres I was running certainly helped, there was no issue with a vibrating computer. As I took to the gravel trail things remained steady but that wasn't the real test. 

The real test was not expected. The gravel loop was 44 miles and a good portion of that was relatively smooth. That was all expected but as I climbed, I eventually turned off onto a logging road. I continued to climb and this is when the weather changed. When it began to snow I was under dressed and things got scary for a little while. For the next thirteen miles I descended on rough logging roads as quickly as I could. 

There was no careful picking of lines. Instead, crashing through big cuts and holes in the road was how things went. My dexterity was low and I wasn't thinking clearly plus I was moving faster than I should have been. More than once I wondered if I'd damaged a wheel but through it all my computer was rock solid. It never drooped and certainly never fell. If the Blendr mount survived that, it'll survive anything. 

The way that Bontrager implements its mount isn't the best solution. The Enve carbon stem is a product with a similar concept but it uses a single mount and connects it to an aluminium K-edge computer mount. The K-edge mount means the computer is down low, there's tons of adapters available, and there's a GoPro mount underneath for lights or cameras. You don't have to remove the bars if you don't want to run a light and also keep everything looking clean and tidy. 

That consideration might be a secondary thought though. A carbon stem is already an emotional purchase and the Bontrager RSL stem is beautiful. If you'd like to stick with Bontrager to match your bike, or your handlebars, then you aren't losing out. It just might mean you have to work a little harder to find the configuration that works for you. 

Tech Specs: Bontrager RSL Blendr Stem

• Price: £239.99 / $288.99 / €289.99 / AU$399.99
• Rise: 7 deg
• Available Length: 70mm-140mm
• Weight: 120g for 100mm length

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Josh hails from the Pacific Northwest of the United States but would prefer riding through the desert than the rain. He will happily talk for hours about the minutiae of cycling tech but also has an understanding that most people just want things to work. He is a road cyclist at heart and doesn't care much if those roads are paved, dirt, or digital. Although he rarely races, if you ask him to ride from sunrise to sunset the answer will be yes. Height: 5'9" Weight: 140 lb. Rides: Salsa Warbird, Cannondale CAAD9, Enve Melee, Look 795 Blade RS, Priority Continuum Onyx

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• Trek Madone KVF Aero Integrated Handlebar/Stem

Bontrager Trek Madone KVF Aero Integrated Handlebar/Stem

Original equipment integrated bar/stem combo for 2016+ Trek Madone 9 series bikes. - Not compatible with other bikes - Variable radius, compact flare (VR-CF) shape offers wrist clearance in the drops - 100% OCLV carbon fiber construction - Seamless integration with Blendr accessory bases and mounts, sold separately

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Unleash Your Inner Geek on a Bike

How to Raise the Handlebars on a Trek Bike

Shahed Parvej

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To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, you can either get a stem riser or replace the stem with one that has a higher rise or a larger angle. This will allow you to adjust the handlebar height and make your riding position more comfortable.

Additionally, you can also replace flat handlebars with a riser model, which can be slightly higher than flat bars. By following these steps, you can easily raise the handlebars on your Trek bike and customize your riding experience for optimal comfort.

Step 1: Assessing Your Handlebar Height

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, start by assessing the handlebar height. This can be done by adjusting the stem or using a stem riser. Choose a stem with a larger angle or a shorter stem altogether to achieve the desired handlebar height.

Before you can start raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, you need to assess the current handlebar position. This step is crucial as it helps you determine if an adjustment is necessary and how much you need to raise the handlebars.

Checking The Current Handlebar Position

To check the current handlebar position, follow these steps:

• Stand in front of your bike and ensure it is on a level surface.
• Locate the stem, which is the component connecting the handlebars to the fork of the bike.
• Note the position of the stem in relation to the steerer tube. The steerer tube is the vertical tube that connects the fork to the frame.
• Observe the number and position of any spacers between the stem and the headset.

By checking the current handlebar position, you can get a better understanding of the adjustments that need to be made to raise the handlebars successfully.

Identifying The Need For Adjustment

After checking the current handlebar position, you can now identify whether an adjustment is needed. Here are a few signs that indicate the need to raise the handlebars:

• You experience discomfort or pain in your wrists, shoulders, or back while riding.
• Your riding posture feels too hunched over, causing strain on your neck.
• Your bike feels unstable or difficult to control, especially when turning or navigating rough terrain.
• You want a more relaxed and upright riding position, which is ideal for casual rides or long-distance cycling.

By identifying these signs, you can determine if an adjustment to the handlebar height is necessary to improve your comfort and overall riding experience.

Step 2: Tools And Materials Needed

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, you may need tools such as a stem riser or a stem with a higher angle or shorter length. This adjustment can improve your riding position and make it more comfortable.

Step 3: Loosening The Stem Bolts

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, start by loosening the stem bolts. This will allow you to adjust the height of the handlebars according to your preference.

Loosening the stem bolts is the next crucial step in raising the handlebars on your Trek bike. This step allows for the necessary movement and adjustment to achieve your desired handlebar height. Follow these simple instructions to ensure a smooth and successful process:

Preparing The Bike For Handlebar Adjustment

• Find a suitable workspace where you can comfortably work on your bike.
• Ensure your bike is securely placed on a stand or elevated surface to provide stable support.
• Make sure you have the necessary tools, including an Allen wrench or suitable tool for the stem bolts.

Loosening The Bolts To Allow Movement

Now that you’ve prepared your bike for handlebar adjustment, it’s time to proceed with loosening the stem bolts. Follow these steps:

• Locate the stem bolts on the top of your bike’s steerer tube. These bolts connect the stem to the fork and hold the handlebars in place.
• Using the appropriate tool, turn the stem bolts counterclockwise to loosen them. Be sure to loosen each bolt evenly to allow for a balanced adjustment.
• Continue loosening the bolts until you feel some loosening of the stem, allowing for upward movement. Keep in mind that you may need to apply some force, but be careful not to overtighten or strip the bolts.
• Once the bolts are sufficiently loosened, you can gently move the stem upwards to raise the handlebars to your desired height.

Remember, it’s important to maintain a balanced adjustment and ensure the stem is securely tightened once you’ve achieved the desired handlebar height. This will provide stability and safety while riding your Trek bike.

In the next step, we will discuss how to securely tighten the stem bolts to complete the handlebar adjustment process. Stay tuned!

Step 4: Adjusting The Handlebar Height

Adjusting the handlebar height on a Trek bike is a simple process that can improve your riding comfort. By following the steps outlined above, you can raise the handlebars using spacers or flipping the stem for a more ergonomic position.

Now that you’ve learned about the different methods of raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s time to dive into the fourth step: adjusting the handlebar height. This step involves two techniques that you can use to achieve the desired height: raising the handlebars using spacers and flipping the stem for increased height.

Raising The Handlebars Using Spacers

If you’re looking for a simple and cost-effective way to raise the handlebars on your Trek bike, using spacers is a great option. Handlebar spacers are small, cylindrical pieces that can be inserted between the stem and the headset to increase the height.

To raise the handlebars using spacers, follow these steps:

• Loosen the stem bolts using an Allen wrench.
• Gently lift the stem and handlebars upward to create some space.
• Place the desired number of spacers on top of the headset.
• Align the stem with the spacers and tighten the bolts to secure everything in place.
• Ensure that the stem is properly aligned and the handlebars are level before tightening the bolts completely.

By adding or removing spacers, you can fine-tune the height of your handlebars to achieve the most comfortable riding position. Experiment with different spacer combinations until you find the height that suits you best.

Flipping The Stem For Increased Height

If you’ve already reached the maximum height using spacers or want to explore other options, flipping the stem can provide further elevation for your handlebars. This technique involves removing the stem, turning it upside down, and reinstalling it onto the bike.

To flip the stem for increased height, follow these steps:

• Remove the stem from the headset by pulling it upward.
• Turn the stem upside down, so the angle between the stem and the handlebars is reversed.
• Reinsert the stem into the headset and align it with the desired height.
• Tighten the bolts to secure the stem in place.

Flipping the stem not only raises the handlebars but also alters your riding position by changing the reach and the angle of the handlebars. Make sure to test your new setup and adjust the stem angle as needed to achieve a comfortable riding position.

With these two techniques, you now have the knowledge to adjust the handlebar height on your Trek bike to best suit your riding style and comfort preferences. Remember to take your time and make small adjustments until you find the perfect handlebar height for an enjoyable and pain-free ride.

Step 5: Ensuring Proper Tightening

To ensure proper tightening of the handlebars on a Trek bike, follow these steps carefully and avoid any overused phrases. Keep sentences brief, choose different expressions, and make your content SEO-friendly and easy to understand.

Tightening The Stem Bolts Securely

Testing the stability of the handlebars, step 6: checking for comfort and fit.

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, follow these steps. First, loosen the stem cap and remove any spacer above the stem. Then, adjust the stem to your desired height and tighten the bolts. Finally, reassemble the stem cap and test for comfort and fit.

Making Adjustments For A Comfortable Riding Position

Once you have raised the handlebars to your desired height, the next step is to make further adjustments for a comfortable riding position. It’s important to ensure that your bike fits you properly to prevent any discomfort or strain while riding.

One way to achieve a comfortable riding position is by adjusting the stem. The stem is the component that connects the handlebars to the steering tube of your bike. By adjusting the stem, you can fine-tune the reach and height of the handlebars.

If you still feel that the handlebars are too low, you can try installing a stem riser. A stem riser is an extension that raises the height of the stem, allowing you to achieve a more upright riding position. Alternatively, you can also consider getting a stem with a larger angle or a shorter stem altogether, which can also help in raising the handlebars and bringing them closer to you.

Testing The Handlebar Height Before Finalizing

Before finalizing the handlebar height, it’s crucial to test and ensure that it feels comfortable and provides a good fit for your body. Here are a few things you can do to check the handlebar height:

• Take your bike for a short test ride around your neighborhood. Pay attention to how your body feels in relation to the handlebars. Are you able to maintain a relaxed and comfortable grip? Does the height allow you to maintain an upright posture without strain on your back or neck?
• Experiment with different handlebar positions. You can try adjusting the angle of the handlebars slightly up or down to find the most comfortable position for you. Remember, small adjustments can make a big difference in your riding experience.
• Consider your riding style and preferences. If you prefer a more aggressive riding position, you may opt for a lower handlebar height. On the other hand, if you prioritize comfort and a more relaxed riding stance, a higher handlebar height may be more suitable.

Remember, finding the perfect handlebar height is a personal preference, and what works for one rider may not work for another. It’s important to listen to your body and make adjustments accordingly. Once you have tested the handlebar height and ensured a comfortable fit, you can enjoy a more enjoyable and ergonomic biking experience.

Step 7: Additional Considerations For Trek Bikes

For those looking to raise the handlebars on their Trek bike, there are several additional considerations to keep in mind. This includes options such as using a stem riser, adjusting the stem height, or even considering a new stem with a steeper rise.

Don’t let discomfort affect your cycling experience, explore these possibilities to find the perfect fit.

When it comes to raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s important to consider the specific model you have. Different Trek bikes may have different handlebar options and limitations. In this step, we will explore handlebar options for specific Trek models and discuss the limitations and compatibility that you should be aware of. By understanding these considerations, you can ensure that your handlebar adjustment is both safe and suitable for your bike.

Exploring Handlebar Options For Specific Trek Models

Each Trek bike model may have its own unique handlebar options. It’s important to choose a handlebar that suits your riding style and preferences. Here are some popular handlebar options for specific Trek models:

Understanding The Limitations And Compatibility

When raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s important to be aware of the limitations and the compatibility of different components. Here are a few key considerations:

• Compatibility with stem: Ensure that the new handlebars are compatible with the stem of your Trek bike.
• Handlebar clamp diameter: Check the clamp diameter of your stem to ensure it matches the diameter of the handlebars you want to install.
• Cable routing: Consider the cable routing on your Trek bike and how it may be affected by the new handlebars. Ensure that the cables have enough length and can be properly routed.
• Brake and gear compatibility: Check if the new handlebars are compatible with your current brake and gear systems. Make sure the levers and shifters can be properly installed and function effectively.

Understanding the limitations and compatibility factors is crucial to ensure a successful handlebar adjustment on your Trek bike. By taking these considerations into account, you can avoid any compatibility issues and ensure that your handlebar modification is both safe and effective.

Credit: www.trekchicago.com

Frequently Asked Questions Of How To Raise The Handlebars On A Trek Bike

Can you raise the handlebars on a trek bike.

Yes, you can raise the handlebars on a Trek bike by either using a stem riser or getting a stem with a larger angle or a shorter length. This will make your riding position less stretched and more comfortable. Additionally, you can also replace your flat handlebars with a riser model to increase the height.

What Is The Problem With The Handlebars On A Trek Bike?

The problem with the handlebars on a Trek bike is that the carbon base bar and handlebar/stem can crack if overloaded, posing a safety risk. Trek has issued a recall for these products to ensure customer safety. It is important to have the handlebars inspected and replaced if necessary.

Can You Raise The Height Of Bike Handlebars?

Yes, you can raise the height of bike handlebars by moving the stem or flipping it. If that doesn’t provide enough height, you can consider using a stem riser, a stem with a higher rise, or a shorter stem altogether.

Another option is to replace flat bars with riser bars for additional height.

To raise the handlebars on your Trek bike, follow the simple steps outlined in this guide. By adjusting the stem or adding stem raisers, you can achieve a more comfortable riding position. Remember to consult your bike’s owner’s manual for specific instructions and safety guidelines.

With the right tools and knowledge, you can customize your bike to fit your needs and enjoy a more enjoyable cycling experience. Don’t forget to prioritize your safety while making any adjustments. Happy riding!

About the author

I’m Shahed Parvej, the proud owner and founder of this platform. As a passionate Bike Enthusiast, I’ve embarked on a journey to share my knowledge, experiences, and insights with fellow enthusiasts, newcomers, and everyone intrigued by the world of biking.

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A Complete Guide to Bike Stems (Styles, Sizes, Fit and More)

My sister gave me the task of making her older Trek 4500 more comfortable.  The bike is still in great shape and just needed some different components to give the bike a more “upright” riding position.

After looking at how the bike fit on her, I made the shopping list which included a new and different stem.  I should digress a bit and describe – “What a stem is”

A bike stem (sometimes called goose neck) is the connection between the handle bars and steerer tube.  Modern bikes use two styles of stem; Quill or Threadless Clamp-On.  Quill stems clamp internally onto the threaded steerer tube.  Clamp-On bolt onto the outside of a threadless steering tube. A bike stem affects bike fit, body position and steering sensitivity.

Styles of Bike Stems

Quill stems for threaded headset.

Also called a goose neck, were the most common type of stem for bikes.  For the most part you only see quill stems on more inexpensive big box bikes and kids’ bikes.  This stem must be used on a threaded headset which has fallen out of favor. 

I would say that the quill style stem is unique in that it is easy to adjust the handlebar height for the rider.  I’ve also found that the stem can be difficult to tighten, causing the steering linkage to come loose.

Threadless Clamp-On Stems

The clam-on style is the most popular style of stem on modern bikes.  This system is stronger through the use of larger diameter tubes and less complicated. 

Some fit flexibility is lost with threadless systems, but by purchasing some options a strong comfortable steering stem can be achieved.

As the name implies the stem “Clamps-On” the steering tube (sometimes called the steerer tube) with either 1 or 2 clamp bolts.

Stem Sizes, Angles and Dimensions

Diameter of the Stem, is usually the first number called out when looking at clamp-on stems.  This defines the steering tube OUTSIDE diameter.  Two common sizes are available; 25.4mm (1 inch) and 28.6mm (1 1/8 inch). 

Both of these sizes are common, so if you’re shopping for a replacement, you’ve got to measure this.  Also don’t confuse the handlebar diameter – usually 25.4 with the stem diameter.

A rare size 31.8mm (1 ¼ inch) is used on some downhill racing bikes.

DIY MTB TIP : Gap between top of stem and steering tube.  Without gap it will be impossible to tighten the threadless headset assembly.

Stem Length , so now we get into the personal preferences for bike fit.  The length or sometimes called the extension is how far the handlebar attachment extends beyond the steering tube.  This measurement is from the center line of the steering tube to the center line of the handlebars.

A typical stem length dimension is 70-80mm.   Sizes can range from short 35mm to over 130mm.

A longer stem length can shift the rider forward into a more aggressive riding position.  The longer stem will slow the turning sensitivity as well. 

Angle , is the “lift” the stem angles up from the steering tube.  In my opinion the stem angle and handlebar “rise” are easy ways to shift the rider into a more upright position.  The stem angle can be sloping down, a common road bike angle is ~73 degrees which levels stem.

It’s common for cruising bikes to have adjustable angle stems.  These are great for casual riders, but not recommended for mountain biking or serious road riding.

I recently made a video on how to make a MTB more comfortable and I replaced the stem.  Check it out below

Handlebar Diameter, the most common handlebar diameter sizes are 25.4mm (1 inch) and 31.8 (1 ¼ inch).  I mention this because it’s easy to get this dimension mixed up with the steering tube diameter.

NOTE : some downhill specific MTBs are adopting even larger handlebar diameters for increased stiffness and lighter weight. 

Folding Bike Stems, do you want to store your bike in a hallway, but the handlebars are too wide?  You can get a FOLDING STEM.  The stem has a releasing lock that allows the handlebars to be turned parallel to the bike frame.    I found these on Amazon here’s a link to read more – THINstem FOLDING BIKE STEM

How Stem Angle and Handlebar Rise work together

Folks remember making quick height adjustments by loosening the wedge bolt and quickly raising the stem/handlebars.  So, I’m often asked how can I raise my handlebars on a threadless clamp-on stem.

The solution is replacing the stem and/or handlebars.  A stem with angle above 45 degrees and increased length positions the bar up and slightly away.  Installing handlebars with a “rise” can move the hand position back toward the rider.

Any alternate solution is an adjustable angle stem with a length of over 90mm. 

Both stem angle and length affect the bike fit, which can result in better peddling power transfer, more comfort and aerodynamics

Threadless Clamp-On Stem Torque Recommendations

Always consult your bikes specific owner’s manual for torques.  I don’t mention torque for carbon handlebars as these require special joint compounds and the stem blocks must be inspected for burrs.

If the manual isn’t available here are my recommendations

DIY MTB TIP:   If possible, when replacing or repairing a stem or fork, ADD spacers both below and above the stem.  Of course, the steering tube needs to be long enough to do this, but having height adjustment flexibility is great.

Quill Stem Dimensions

Diameter , the most common size of quill stem is 22.2mm.  You’ll find this on most bikes built before 1980.  The 21.1mm was common years ago on BMX bikes.  Now quill stems are mostly used on big box brands of inexpensive bikes. 

Length , the stem length is measured from the center line of the steering tube attachment to the center line of the handle bars.  The distance affects the rider reach.  Since the stem length is set, fine tuning the reach is done with seat position.

The stem reach also plays a factor in how responsive the steering will be.  A longer stem length is less responsive as compared to a shorter length.

Handlebar , nearly all modern mountain bike handlebars are 25.4mm (1 inch).  Some custom and European bikes will have another dimension, but it’s rare.

Angle , stem angle affects the body position. A higher angle will “lift” the handlebars.  Often on cruiser style or mountain bikes the stem angle will be between zero and 35 degrees.

Adjustable angle quill stems are available.  This style of stem is very adjustable, as the insertion height of the stem can be adjusted along with angle.

Older road bikes with quill stems usually have a 73-degree stem angle, which levels the stem.  Because the height of a quill stem can be adjusted quill stems but those bikes like most have moved to Common quill stem sizes are  

Adjusting a Quill Stem

Adjusting the height of the handlebars and realign the handlebars to the tire is pretty simple.  All you need is a 6mm hex wrench and a hammer.

The best way to detail is with this video I made.

Assembling a Threadless Clamp-On Stem

On threadless headsets a bike stem also performs the function of locking down the pressure for the steering tube.  An important item is to understand that if the stem is tight on the steering tube you won’t be able to tighten the steering tube (compress) bearings.

• It’s a simple procedure, first loosely place the stem on the steering tube.
• The steering tube must be below the lip of the stem.  If the steering tube is above the stem, remove the stem and install spacers.
• Make sure the stem clamp bolts are loose.  The stem must be able to slide on the steering tbue.
• Place the stem cap on the stem.
• Guide the compression bolt through the cap and into the star nut.
• Tighten until you remove any slop between the bike frame and stem.
• Align the handlebars
• Tighten the stem clamp bolts to the specified torque.

Mountain Bike Tip : It’s always good to double check the handlebar alignment and steering tube slop after the bearings have had a chance to settle.  Simple squeeze the front brakes and shift the bike forward and back feeling for movement described in step 6 above.

Below is a chart describing the size star nut needed compared to the Outside Diameter of the steering tube.

Chart ID of steering tube for Star Nut size

DIY MTB TIP : When tightening the threadless headset, the stem MUST be loose.  The fastest way to damage or pull out the star nut is by tightening without a loose stem.

Selecting a Stem for Your Bike

Selection of a stem has to do with the function you’re trying to achieve with your bike.  Generally, high angle stems are for an upright position.

Short stems are nice to improve handling and move a rider’s weight back for hill climbs.

A longer stem is used to shift weight forward, improving aerodynamics and slowly the steering sensitivity.  A great example of this is how road bike riders want to cut the wind, bump very seldom make sharp turns like a mountain biker.

Best Bike Stem

For mountain bikes, RaceFace, Richey and Easton are the big brands.  Here’s a link to a collection on Amazon to read more – Amazon MTB Stems

For mountain biking I recommend the RaceFace Respond.  This is a forged stem from 6061 aluminum.  High strength and fatigue resistance, plus it looks sweet.  The four bolt clamp holds the handlebars securely. Pictured below, but here’s a link over to it on Amazon . RaceFace Respond

What is “Slamming” a stem

Slamming a stem is flipping the stem over so the angle of the stem is down versus up.  This is a common practice for aggressive aerodynamic road biking.

What does a shorter stem do?

A shorter stem distance reduces the reach of the rider and makes the steering quicker.  Longer stems position the rider in a weight forward position for more aggressive riding position.

What is the difference between Threadless vs Threaded Headsets?

The fastest way to recognize the difference between a threaded headset and threadless is that the threaded headset will have a big bolt under the stem. 

Learn more about Pedals, Handlebars and Brakes

• Handlebars on MTBs are wide, find out why – Why are MTB Handlebars so Wide?
• Should you upgrade your handlebars? Read – Are Handlebars Worth Upgrading?
• Universal pedals? Read all about it here – 9 Universal Pedals for Your MTB
• Learning how to Jump? Learn more with – How to Jump a MTB with Flat Pedals
• Keep your disc brakes clean – How to Clean Mountain Bike Disc Brakes
• Is their a difference? – Mountain Bike V-Brakes vs Disc

David Humphries is the creator of DIY Mountain Bike. For me a relaxing day involves riding my mountain bike to decompress after a long day. When not on my bike I can be found wrenching on it or making YouTube videos at 👉 DIY Mountain Bike Read more about David HERE .

Looking for more How To MTB articles? Click -> HERE

How To Raise The Handlebars On A Trek Bike

Trek is a well-known bike brand known for how well they work. One thing that makes Trek bikes so easy to ride is that the handlebar height can be changed. This lets riders find the one that fits their needs the best.

Many riders like Trek bikes because they are well-made and work well. You need to set the handlebars to the right height for the best ease, control, and posture while riding.

You want to know how to raise the handlebars on a trek bike? This article will show you to raise the handlebars on a Trek bike so that you can ride it more comfortably.

How To Determine The Appropriate Handlebar Height For A Trek Bike

Finding the right handlebar height for your Trek bike is important if you want to ride easily and healthily. Here are some steps that will help you figure out the right height for the handlebars:

Style and Preference : Consider your riding style and preferences when choosing handlebar height. Choose a lower handlebar height if you prefer a more active and aerodynamic ride. A higher handlebar height may be better for a more relaxed and upright position.

Body Mechanics and Flexibility : Consider your body’s flexibility when adjusting your handlebar height to avoid discomfort in your back, neck, and shoulders. Consider your arm height based on your flexibility, core strength, and any injuries or limitations you have.

Bike Fit Assessment : Give your bike a thorough fit exam. This can be done by talking to a skilled bike fitter or using online calculators or guides for a bike fit. These tools usually suggest an initial handlebar height based on your height, inseam length, torso length, and arm length.

Initial Adjustment : Based on the assessment or suggestions, start with a handlebar height that is on the low side. It’s always best to start with a little higher handlebars and then make changes as needed. This lets you fine-tune the setting based on how comfortable you are and how you like to ride.

Test Rides and Adjustments : Take a few test rides on your Trek bike with the handlebars at the starting height. Pay attention to any pain or strain in your body, especially in your neck, shoulders, and lower back. If you feel uncomfortable or like you can’t keep control of the bike, this could mean that the handlebars need to be changed.

Changes Made Gradually : Adjust the handlebars in small increments by moving them up or down about 5mm at a time. Test ride the bike after each adjustment to see how it affects your comfort and riding experience. Make small adjustments until you find the right height that gives you optimal ease, stability, and control.

How To Adjust Trek Bicycle Bars

Raising the handlebars is an easy job. Just read the steps to do the job like a professional:

Step 1: Gather The Required Tools

Before starting the handlebar adjustment process, make sure you have the following tools:

Allen wrench set : Depending on your bike’s specifications, different sizes may be needed.

Adjustable wrench : This may be necessary to loosen or tighten certain components.

Step 2: Evaluate The Existing Setup

Take a moment to analyze your current handlebar position. Identify the style of the handlebar stem on your Trek bike, as it will determine the specific steps required for adjustment. The two most common stem styles are quill stems and threadless stems.

Quill stems : These stems have a long vertical tube that slides into the bike’s fork steerer tube. They are secured in place with a single bolt at the top. To raise the handlebars on a quill stem, you will need to adjust the stem’s height.

Threadless stems : These stems consist of a horizontal steerer tube and a stem that clamps onto it. The stem height can be adjusted by adding or removing spacers and by repositioning the stem itself.

Step 3: Raising Handlebars On Quill Stems

If your Trek bike has a quill stem, follow these steps:

Loosen the bolt : Locate the bolt at the top of the stem. Use an appropriately sized Allen wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen the bolt. Turn it counterclockwise until it is loose enough to allow the stem to move.

Adjust the stem height : Gently lift the stem upwards to the desired height. Take note of the maximum height indicator line on the stem. Ensure that the stem remains aligned with the front wheel.

Tighten the bolt : Once you have set the desired height, tighten the bolt by turning it clockwise. Make sure it is securely tightened to prevent any movement or slippage during rides.

Test the adjustment : Give the handlebars a firm shake and apply moderate pressure to ensure they are properly secured. Make any additional adjustments if necessary.

Step 4: Raising Handlebars On Threadless Stems

If your Trek bike has a threadless stem, the process involves adjusting the stem’s position and possibly adding or removing spacers:

Evaluate spacer arrangement : Inspect the spacers positioned above and below the stem. If there are no spacers above the stem, proceed to step 2. If there are spacers above the stem, you will need to reposition them below it.

Loosen stem bolts : Locate the bolts on the side of the stem where it clamps onto the steerer tube. Loosen these bolts by turning them counterclockwise using an appropriately sized Allen wrench.

Adjust the stem height : Gently lift the stem to the desired height. If you need to add or remove spacers, slide them below the stem or lift them off the steerer tube, respectively.

Align the stem : Ensure that the stem is aligned with the front wheel. Verify that the gap between the stem and the top tube is equal on both sides.

Tighten the stem bolts : Once the stem is at the desired height and properly aligned, tighten the stem bolts by turning them clockwise. Start with a snug fit, and then gradually increase the tightness of each bolt in a crisscross pattern until they are securely tightened.

Test the adjustment : Similar to the quill stem adjustment, test the handlebars by shaking them and applying pressure. Confirm that everything is secure and there is no movement or slippage.

Properly adjusting the handlebars on your Trek bike is crucial for maintaining a comfortable and efficient riding position. By following the step-by-step instructions outlined in this essay, you can confidently raise the handlebars on both quill and threadless stems.

Remember to pay attention to safety, ensure all components are tightened correctly, and test the adjustments before embarking on your next cycling adventure. Enjoy your ride with elevated handlebars, providing you with a more enjoyable and ergonomic cycling experience.

Mike Anderson

Hello Dudes, Mike Anderson here! I am a freaky traveler who goes anywhere, on any kind of track or path with my bicycle. In that way Mehedi and Laura found me. And, I love to talk about the different types of cycling issues (almost about all Bikes) in my blog post.

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How To Raise The Handlebars On A Trek Bike

If you’re looking to raise the handlebars on your Trek bike, there are a few things you’ll need to do. First, you’ll need to loosen the stem bolts that secure the handlebars to the frame. Next, you’ll need to raise the handlebars to the desired height and tighten the stem bolts. Finally, you’ll need to check the handlebar height to make sure it’s comfortable for you. Follow these steps and you’ll have your Trek bike set up in no time!

• Unscrew the cap at the top of the stem
• Insert a hex key into the bolt and loosen it
• Raise the handlebars to the desired height and retighten the bolt
• Screw the cap back on

Trek bike handlebar/stem extender

• 1 Trek bike handlebar/stem extender
• 2 How do you adjust the handlebar height on a Trek bike?
• 3 How do I raise the handlebars on my bike?
• 4 How do you raise the trek Marlin handlebars?
• 5 How do you raise the handlebars on a trek verve 2?
• 6 How to change your handlebar height
• 7 Conclusion

If you ride a bike, you know how important it is to have a comfortable grip on the handlebars. But what do you do when your bike’s handlebars are too close together? That’s where a Trek bike handlebar/stem extender comes in handy. A Trek bike handlebar/stem extender is a simple device that attaches to your bike’s handlebars and extends them outwards, giving you a wider grip. This can be extremely helpful if you have large hands or if you’re riding a bike with narrow handlebars. Installing a Trek bike handlebar/stem extender is a quick and easy process. Simply remove the screws that hold on your bike’s existing handlebar grips and then screw on the extender. It’s that simple! Once installed, you’ll immediately notice a difference in the way your bike feels. You’ll have more control and a more comfortable grip on the handlebars. And, you won’t have to worry about your hands slipping off the handlebars while you’re riding. If you’re looking for a way to improve your bike riding experience, consider installing a Trek bike handlebar/stem extender. You won’t be disappointed!

How do you adjust the handlebar height on a Trek bike?

Assuming you would like a blog post discussing how to adjust the handlebar height on a Trek bike: Many people think that you can only adjust the handlebar height on a Trek bike by taking it to a bike shop. However, this is not the case! You can actually adjust the handlebar height on a Trek bike yourself, and it’s pretty easy to do. The first thing you need to do is loosen the handlebar clamp bolts. To do this, simply unscrew the bolts with an Allen wrench. Once the bolts are loosened, you can slide the handlebars up or down to the desired height. Once you have the handlebars at the desired height, tighten the clamp bolts back up. That’s it! You’ve now successfully adjusted the handlebar height on your Trek bike. Keep in mind that you may need to readjust your stem if you adjust the handlebar height by more than a few centimeters. Also, if you have a carbon handlebar, be careful not to overtighten the clamp bolts, as this could damage the handlebar.

How do I raise the handlebars on my bike?

Assuming you would like tips on how to raise the handlebars on your bike: If you’re finding that your handlebars are too low and you’re struggling to ride comfortably, you may need to raise them. This is a relatively simple process that can be completed in just a few minutes with the right tools. First, you’ll need to gather a few supplies. You’ll need an adjustable wrench, an Allen key set, and a Phillips head screwdriver. Once you have your tools, you can begin the process of raising your handlebars. Start by loosening the bolts that secure your handlebars to the stem. These bolts are typically located at the top of the stem, and you’ll need to use your adjustable wrench to loosen them. Once the bolts are loose, you can begin to raise the handlebars. Raise the handlebars slowly and evenly until they’re at the height you’re comfortable with. Once they’re in the desired position, you can use your Allen key set to tighten the bolts back into place. Make sure the bolts are tight enough that the handlebars won’t move, but don’t overtighten them as this can damage the bolts. And that’s it! You’ve now successfully raised your handlebars and can enjoy a more comfortable ride.

How do you raise the trek Marlin handlebars?

If you’re looking to raise the handlebars on your Marin bike, there are a few things you’ll need to do. First, you’ll need to loosen the stem bolts that hold the handlebars in place. Next, you’ll need to remove the handlebars from the stem. Once the handlebars are removed, you can add spacers to the stem to raise the handlebars to your desired height. Finally, you’ll need to re-attach the handlebars and tighten the stem bolts. Follow these steps and you’ll have your Marin bike set up with higher handlebars in no time!

How do you raise the handlebars on a trek verve 2?

If you’re looking to raise the handlebars on your Trek Verve 2, there are a few things you’ll need to do. First, you’ll need to loosen the stem bolt using an Allen wrench. Next, you’ll need to unscrew the top cap and remove the star nut. Once these two things are removed, you can raise the handlebars to your desired height and tighten the stem bolt back down. Finally, put the top cap and star nut back on and you’re all set!

How to change your handlebar height

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, first loosen the bolt at the base of the stem using an Allen wrench. Next, raise the handlebars to the desired height and tighten the bolt. You may need to readjust the brake cables and shifters after raising the handlebars.

E-Bike Parts and Accessories | Where to Buy?

When you purchase through links on our website, we may earn a commission. Affiliate disclosure.

When you decide to fit a conversion kit to your bike, it is inevitable at some stage in the future you will need to find replacement parts.  To make life easier I have compiled several product tables for e-bike parts and accessories for all the popular brands including Bafang and Tonsheng mid-drive motors as well as essential parts for most of the popular electric bike hub motor kits.

All the parts listed in this article come from reputable suppliers that I use regularly for my electric bike conversion business. They ship globally and you can expect delivery usually in 14-21 days (in some cases less).

E-Bike Spares, Parts and Accessories

***If, like me, you are a dog lover, check out this website for some great reviews of bike trailers for dogs.

Electric bike components explained

Electric bike kits are composed of various different parts, all of which play an important role in the continued function of your e-bike. If you are new to the world of DIY electric bike conversions, it is always useful to know what roles these parts play (and where to buy them).

1. Electric bike controller

The electric bike controller is an essential part of the whole system and your e-bike will not function without it (it can be thought of as the brains of the system).  The controller has multiple functions including regulating the voltage and current as well as taking important data from pedals sensors, torque sensors, speed sensors and the handlebar display.

A controller will also determine how fast your e-bike will be. For example, a 36v 15A controller when used in conjunction with a 36v battery will give you a maximum peak power output of 540 watts and a 48v30ah controller using a 48v battery (with 30A BMS) will give you a peak power output of 1440 watts. Note: the peak power output will be slightly higher on a fully-charged battery.

There are several reasons you may wish to change your controller. Sometimes the controller may just fail and need replacing, or you may want to increase the power output of your bike.

If you have purchased a 250w hub motor kit with a 36v 15A controller, you may feel you need more power to help you on the hills. A moderate increase in power can be achievable just by changing the controller. A 36v 22A controller would increase your nominal peak power to 792 watts.

If you decided to increase the power output, you would need to check the specification of your battery. Some cheaper batteries will only be able to handle a continuous current on 15A, so you would also need to upgrade your battery to one with a 25A BMS (battery management system).

If you wanted even more power, a 48v 22A controller would give you a peak power output of 1056 watts. You would need to change your battery to a 48v with a 25A BMS.

One very important thing to remember is a 250w geared hub motor is designed to handle a finite amount of power and I would not recommend going to go too high with the power output as you would compromise reliability. The extra energy generated by a higher voltage / current controller will increase wear on the motor’s planetary gears.

2. Electric bike display

An e-bike display will have a number of functions (depending on the model): Speed, power level, mileage, power output and even GPS navigation. There have been big improvements in recent years, notably full-colour displays and increased functionality. Bafang displays allow the user to choose up to 9 levels of pedal assist, which is great as you can gently increase the power available to suit your riding.

3. Pedal Assist Sensor

There are two different types of pedal sensors found on e-bikes: Cadence and torque sensing.

A cadence-based pedal sensor measures your pedalling rpm and gives you assistance as soon as pedalling starts. Most modern pedal sensors will ramp the power back once a high pedalling rpm is reached.

On the Bafang mid-drive motor the pedal sensor is integrated into the motor unit. On a hub drive motor, the sensor would usually be a plastic disc with a ring on 5-12 magnets and a pick-up sensor.

The magnetic disc is usually mounted on the non-drive side on the square-tapered part between the crank arm and bottom bracket, with the pick-up sensor aligned with the disc and mounted less than 5mm from the magnets.

A torque-sensing pedal assist sensor is generally more intuitive and gives you assistance proportionate to the amount of force you are applying to the pedals. These types of pedal sensors are usually fitted to factory-produced electric bikes. Like the cadence-based pedal sensor, torque sensors usually reduce power at higher pedalling speeds.

The Tongsheng TDZ2 mid-drive motor uses an integrated torque sensor and there are torque-sensing bottom brackets available for hub motors. These replace the bike’s existing bottom bracket and usually, a hole needs to be drilled in the bottom bracket shell (on the bike frame) for the sensor lead – this needs to be done carefully and a rubber grommet inserted into the hole as to prevent damage to the sensor lead.

4. Speed Sensor

Certain motors require an external speed sensor – primarily the Bafang and Tonsheng motors, but also some hub motor kits. The pedal assist will not work properly on the Bafang without a correctly installed speed sensor and will throw up an error code.

A speed sensor is usually mounted on the chainstay and a small magnet is fitted to one of the spokes to align with the sensor.

The speed sensor has a couple of functions, one is to provide an accurate speed reading for the display and the other is to provide data to the controller for pedal assist.

5. Gearshift Sensor

Not long after the Bafang mid-drive was released, it quickly became apparent that the extra power being transferred through the bike’s drive-train was causing premature wear to the chain, derailleur and gear cassette (particularly on the more powerful models).

The Bafang gearshift sensor was released soon after, and it works by threading the rear shifter cable through the hole in the sensor. When shifting through the gears it senses movement in the cable and briefly cuts the motor to enable smooth gear changes and thus prevent wear on the gear components.

Having a gear sensor is even more important if you have an internally geared rear hub like a Shimano Nexus or Alfine, as these hubs weren’t really designed to handle the torque of a BBS02 or BBSHD.

6. Throttle

Most e-bike kits come with throttles. There are different types of throttles available: The most common type is a thumb throttle. These are easy to fit on the handlebar and allow for the electric motor to be used independently if the pedal assist.

Throttles are very useful to get you going, especially if you have knee problems that make pedalling from a standstill difficult. They can also provide you with a break from pedalling if you get tired.

It should be noted that it is unwise to use throttles on long, steep hills (unless your motor is very powerful) as the extra load can cause heat build-up and result in the controller or motor failure.

Other types of throttle available are twist and half-twist throttles the same as would be found on a motorcycle. These throttles work well but can interfere with gear shifters.

7. Brake cut-off sensors

These are nearly always provided with e-bike kits. They function as an auxiliary safety measure to cut power. Fitting these is a matter of personal preference. On torque sensing systems they are not necessary, but with more powerful motors that have a throttle control, it may be wise to have them fitted just in case the throttle sticks open.

There are different kinds of brake cut-offs. The types usually provided with kits are simply brake levers with a simple switch and a lead coming off the lever that plugs into the wiring loom (or directly into the controller). These kinds of brake sensors are only suitable for cable-operated brakes and would not work with hydraulic brakes.

There are sensors available for hydraulic brakes, these work by sticking a magnet to the brake lever and aligning the sensor so that when the brakes are pulled in the magnet moves away from the sensor and cuts the motor out. In my experience, these kinds of sensors can be difficult to fit on certain brakes and are also prone to getting knocked out of alignment.

If you really feel you need the cut-off sensors, it would be worth buying a complete set of special hydraulic brakes with the sensors fitted. These will add to the cost of your build but will give you a much cleaner, more professional finished product.

8. Wiring Harness

This is basically a wiring loom that connects various components, usually from the handlebar back to the controller.

Nearly all electric bike parts and accessories are manufactured in China, and if you are happy to wait a couple of weeks then there are great savings to be made buying directly from suppliers on Aliexpress.

I am an affiliate for Aliexpress and earn a small commission for referrals from my website, you will pay exactly the same price as if you visited their site directly and the commissions I receive help to support the upkeep of my website.

Bafang Parts

The table below contains all of the Bafang motor parts you will ever need. All the parts listed below come from reputable suppliers and are shipped globally to most countries.

Find and compare prices on Bafang motor parts and accessories

A lot of Bafang parts are also now available through eBay

Tongsheng Parts

The Tongsheng parts listed below all come from trusted suppliers with international shipping to nearly every country

Find and compare prices on Tongsheng motor parts and accessories

Visit eBay for more Tongsheng parts

General electric bike parts

Click on the link below for a selection of essential motor parts to fit most generic e-bike kits. These include upgraded controllers, colour displays, torque sensors and much more. Global shipping applies and all the sellers I have personally used myself.

Find and compare prices on general e-bike conversion kit parts and accessories

If you are after a particular part, leave a comment below and I will try and source it for you.

Meet Tony, a passionate e-bike advocate and enthusiast who discovered the life-changing benefits of electric bikes back in 2016. Tony’s technical experience within the e-bike field was gained while running a successful electric bike conversion business for 5 years in his home county of Cornwall, UK.

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HI I NEED A BATTERY CHARGER FOR MY CARRERA SUBWAY E DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN BUY ONE

I have checked on Cycle Republic’s website and it looks like they have compatible chargers in stock. When did you buy the bike? If the charger has failed it should be covered by the 2-year warranty. Here is the link for the charger.

I also wanted to add that I think even if there is no internal speed sensor on the TSDZ2, I think it’s not likely required (strictly speaking). The torque sensor determines whether the motor needs power, and AFAIK the speed sensor is only used to print the speed on the display. But if a rider has a satnav or doesn’t care about their speed, the speed sensor can probably be omitted.

I checked out that link you sent and it looks like a typo. The eBay listing it links to clearly shows the external speed sensor (which mounts to the chainstay). I think they’re getting their wires crossed. The only internal sensors on the TSDZ2 measure torque and pedalling cadence.

You can use the TSDZ2 without the speed sensor, but you will not be able to set a maximum assisted speed limit (for legal requirements) or use the trip function on the display. I have tested them without the speed sensor fitted and it doesn’t appear to impact the pedal assist function as that primarily relies on torque and cadence sensing.

I’m servicing a customer’s bike on Monday, so I will take the measurement of the TSDZ2 from the BB shell to the end of the shaft (chainring side) and post it here.

Regards, Tony

Ronald Cashmore, It all sounds very good, I like it, especially the torque control, if I understand correctly one can also pedal normally with motor disengaged ? Could I use a Lekkie bling ring with this motor ?I am now 88 yrs old and begin to feel it; I live in a very hilly area, I am now 10 to 20 Km/hr slower than 20 years ago but speed is not important I am also mildly asthmatic, throughput max 440-480 ltr/min,not serious and until recently not a problem; I live in a very hilly area and don`t avoid the climbs, I still have the strength but during the last two years lung performance has steadily declined, I still climb the hill but on the big ones I have to stop for a one to two minute break, time is not important but it would be nice to keep rolling and a bit of assistance will keep me rolling longer, I would rather die on a bike than in bed.Thank you for a helpful review, from what you say it might be as well to buy the nylon reduction gear as a spare in hand.I am an amateur engineer with a well equipped shop, a manual is always helpful but I should be able to cope with installation and wear and tear problems.Thank you again, best wishes, Ronald Cashmore

Hi Ronald, With the torque-sensing Tongsheng TSDZ2 motor, there is a slight increase in pedalling resistance with the motor switched off, but in my experience it isn’t as noticeable as on the Bafang. There is also a 104 BCD chainring adaptor available for this motor or you can purchase a small 34t chainring if required.

Lekkie only seem to do chainrings for the Bafang BBS motor. Here is the link to the supplier I purchase most of my Tongsheng mid-drive motors from: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/balgbzT2 they also offer a duty-paid shipping option, which works out cheaper than paying duty your end.

This company can also supply the 34t chainring option and all the spare parts you would require (nylon gear etc). The last kit I ordered from them took 5 working days to get to the UK.

My battery supplier UnitPackPower usually have a good choice of batteries in stock in Germany, so delivery would be very quick.

I will be posting an installation video on YouTube soon and will put it on my Tongsheng TSDZ review page.

I share your passion for cycling. I ride about a 100 miles a week on average and can’t ever imagine being without my Dawes Galaxy touring bike.

If you need any more help or advice, please let me know.

All the best, Tony

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NCM Moscow Plus

An e-mountain bike equipped with high-end brake and drive systems, the NCM M5 is for adventurous riders who want to hit the trails comfortable in the knowledge that their ebike can handle whatever they throw at it.

BIKE COMPONENTS

Frame: Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 29"*20.5 inches

Suspension Fork: Suntour, XCM-HLO-26/27.5/29, with hydraulic lock system

Brake: F/R: Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brakes,HD-E350

Freewheel: LY, 8 Speed, 11-32T, Silver

Tire: Schwalbe, Black Jack, 26"*2.1/Smart Sam, 27.5"*2.35/29"*2.35, Black

Saddle: Selle Royal, Lookin-A200UR, Black

Crank: Das-Kit, CM48,28/38/48T

Derailleur: F: Shimano, Altus, FD-M310, R: Shimano, Acera, RD-M360

ELECTRIC COMPONENTS

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16AH, 768WH

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 900W

Controller: Das-Kit, CT-i5, 48V 18A

Charger: Das-Kit, 48V3A

Display: Das-Kit, C7 

Net Weight (with battery): 57.0 lbs

Battery Weight: 9.1 lbs

Max Load (driver+bike): 275.0 lbs

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Our on-line store is open 24/7 and we ship Monday through Friday, excluding some holidays. Orders received for products without shipping restrictions on its product page will ship the same business day when received before 12:00 p.m. PST. Orders in high demand will have an estimated production time listed on its product page and will ship according to the date listed.

Customer Reviews

Very happy with my new M7 and wife's Moscow Plus

We purchased the NCM Moscow 29 E bike from Leon Cycles earlier this month. Communication was via 'Whatsapp' which I initially thought a little odd but worked out well. Once communication established the transaction was completed quickly and easily. We were able to arrange for the team to assemble the bike for us and we picked it up from the warehouse without an issue. We love the bike and are continuing to find new places to discover using it. Competitive price and great service.

I ordered the bike 4 days ago and today it arrived. Now my first impressions: it is easy to assemble, looks great, is cleanly finished and after a first short driving test I have to say, the hammer. It's totally easy to drive. If it stays that way, I can only say thank you Leon Cycle. Now I can cycle again, despite knee problems. Price-performance top

Great bike, this is my second e bike and by far the best. Watching e bikes over the last 10 years I think the Moscow 29er is fantastic. I live in the Dandenongs outside Melbourne with big steep hills and the Moscow takes them all on with great pulling power and gear range. 48v with 16 amps means over 750 watts of power. The bike is big and serious so getting on and off can be tricky but you do get used to it. With the previous bike (36v at 8amps) I was scared of running out of battery on a big hill and having to push the bike home but not with the Moscow. Also if you take the front wheel off you can get it in a hatchback like my Mazda 3 Which is nice. At $2200 it is a great buy.

Purchased two Moscow 27.5. One for my wife, one for me. Fast delivery, well boxed and easy assembly. Absolutely FANTASTIC to ride and use. Great range, and enough power for steep hills and tough terrain. I highly recommend them. Exactly as advertised and brochure. Looked at many options from other suppliers but these are the best value for money. If anyone wants a little extra range and a few more features then a Moscow Plus may suit. 48 Volt is the way to go. Great support and assistance from the team at Leon to make the right purchase decision. Hope other people may enjoy the ride and quality product. Harry G

Highlighted Features

Das-Kit 500W Motor

Ergonomic handlebar grips

Moscow 48V disc brake

Product specifications.

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16Ah, 768Wh

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 750W

Display: Das-Kit, C7

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