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Best road handlebars: How to pick the right option for your needs

With so many options available, how do you choose the best road bike handlebars?

Alloy Budget

Alloy classic curve, alloy compact, carbon aero, carbon budget, carbon classic curve, carbon compact, fully integrated, how to choose the best road bike handlebars for you.

1. Quick List 2. Alloy Aero 3. Alloy Budget 4. Alloy Classic Curve 5. Alloy Compact 6. Carbon Aero 7. Carbon Budget 8. Carbon Classic Curve 9. Superlight 10. Fully Integrated 11. Riser 12. How to choose

Road bike handlebars all do the same thing when you drill down into it. They all offer multiple hand positions, attach via a stem to your fork's steerer, and have your shifters mounted to them. Beyond that, they are a good way to make more subtle changes to the ergonomics of your bike, and I've found can have more of an impact than you might expect, especially with a swap to some of the best bar tape too . Differences in drop, reach, bend shape, and flare can have big implications for comfort, especially on longer rides, and given the bars are one of the key leading edges on a bike there are significant aero gains to be won, too. What's more, swapping from alloy to carbon can save you grams as well, if you're that way inclined. 

There are uncountable options available on the market, and given that ergonomics are a very personal thing I've steered clear of suggesting one bar is 'better' than another. Instead, I've picked some out that I've enjoyed using to illustrate distinct categories within the market, as well as some alternatives. If none of them floats your boat then we've also got a guide to the best gravel handlebars too that have options with more flare, more cushioning, and a greater emphasis on ergonomics. It can be a confusing landscape, so at the bottom of the page I've put together an explainer on reach, curve and drop, plus answered some common questions that crop up when discussing handlebars.

+ Aero gains on the cheap - 40cm narrowest - Limited real estate for lights

Wing-shaped bars have long been the preserve of carbon fibre aficionados, and therefore those with deeper pockets. There are though, if you know where to look, aerodynamic options made of aluminium like the Vision Trimax Aero. You get the same wing shape, if a little less dramatic, as the brand's Metron bars. There are cable groves for Di2, as well as a larger internal cable tunnel. You get a 125mm drop, a 90mm reach, and a 7-degree forward sweep. Sadly though for an aerodynamic bar you can't go narrower than 40cm, so be prepared to turn your hoods inwards.

Other alternatives

+ Incredibly low RRP - 40cm narrowest option - A little hefty

Considering you can pick a set of these bars up for less than a tenner if they're on offer they're very hard to overlook. The finish is a uniform texture, and the indents at the bend for cables and hoses (external only) aren't finished that well, but once they're wrapped you'll never see this and they look no different from more premium options. There is a weight penalty though; they're 68 grams heavier than the more premium Zipp Service Course 70 for the same width, plus the extra weight of the spare cash in your wallet.

+ Classic shape - Pricey for alloy - 42cm narrowest

The classic curve bar is an endangered species, but one you still see on pro bikes. The Deda100 Deep is an archetypical bar, with a sloping section down to the hoods, a very deep 145mm drop, and a 95mm reach. They won't be to everyone's liking, but if you're building up a bike with old-school vibes they're a great choice. If the drop is too much for you Deda also makes a shallower drop version, but that wouldn't fulfil your dreams of being a mid 90's pro no, would it? Aside from the shape, the only real downside is the price. On the upside, they are light at 254g for a 42cm bar. It's worth noting that Deda measures from the outside not the centre of the tube, so a 42cm bar is equivalent to a 40cm. 

+ Comes in narrow widths - No internal routing

The Deda zero100 RHM, which stands for 'rapid hand movement' typifies what most of you would think of as a normal, quality modern alloy handlebar. It's got a classic compact shape, though with a slightly rounder lower section than some. Regardless it's going to leave the hoods in a straight line forward rather than having them on the curve of the bar, as is the modern way. There's no internal routing, but there is a groove pressed into the underside of the round top section to allow you to run the cables more flush for better ergonomics. As a bonus, unlike many options, these come in widths as narrow as 38cm, which is great for riders looking for free aero gains.

+ Aero + Lightweight - Expensive - Nowhere to clamp anything I've fitted these up to my gravel bike, despite the fact they are very much road bars (I'm doing so at my own risk). Ergonomically they are excellent, with the main portion of the drops narrowed for an aero advantage, before flaring out at the ends. This really locks your hands in place when in the drops, though is less suitable to those with larger paws. They do come in 38cm wide too, which is great for narrower riders or just those looking to get even more aero. The main drawback, beyond the high RRP, is the fact that the bars flatten out immediately after the clamp area leaving no room at all for clipping on lights or computers; stem mounts only here!

+ Budget price, for carbon + Comfy tops - No internal routing In days of yore the phrase 'budget carbon' was synonymous with cheap fakes and a sense of unease. Carbon parts are well established now, and these Brand X bars will have passed all the relevant safety tests. If you're looking to shave off a few grams (these are 228g for a 42cm wide option), they're a relatively affordable way to do so. I like the shape of the tops a lot, which have been slightly flattened and feel great, and while a lack of proper internal routing may irk fans of expensive mechanic bills, the deep channels underneath in lieu of actual holes do a good job and mean you don't have to bleed your brakes if you want to swap them out for a similarly externally routed set.

+ Last of its kind - 40cm narrowest If you thought classic curve alloy bars were hard to find then just wait until you try and find carbon versions... The WCS Carbon Neoclassic from Ritchey is, as far as I can tell, the only carbon classic curve handlebar left on the market. I'm sure someone in a forum somewhere will immediately comment to the effect that I'm wrong, but I can handle that. In any case, if you want classic carbon, this is it, and you'd better not want anything narrower than a 40cm. If you're dead set on weight savings then these make sense, but for a classic bike restoration, or anything other than a high performance machine where every gram counts then the alloy options from Deda and the like probably make more sense to me. Other alternatives

+ Very light + Internal routing - 40cm narrowest - Not clip-on bar compatible 220g for a 42cm handlebar is appreciably light. It's not crazy like the Darimo Eclipse, but it's light, with a pretty standard compact drop shape and round tube profile throughout. Unlike budget options like the Brand X, you get fully internal routing, which does make life more fiddly but is a more svelte solution. You can't go narrower than 40cm, and you will have to fork out over £300 if you're paying full price, but this is a pro-tier product. One thing to be aware of here, and with many other superlight options, is you often cannot clip on TT extensions as only the stem clamp area is suitably reinforced, so if you're a triathlete then maybe look elsewhere and take the weight penalty for the aero gains. Other alternatives

+ Crazy light + Custom options available + Good width range - Expensive These are light, crazy light. A 42cm set of bars is only 131g, with a 38cm option that I ride clocking in at a bananas 124g. That's about the same as a large sneeze. These are truly bike bling, they're the preserve of the ultra-weight weenies, and unless you've optimized other cheaper aspects of your bike first they are likely overkill given they are a hair shy of €400. That doesn't stop them, and similarly, superlight carbon parts are extremely desirable. They do come in a wider than normal array of widths, which is really heartening to see as too often riders end up with too-wide bars, and if you want to use them with clip-ons you can request a custom set that is specially reinforced. Madly, given that they are produced in small batches, you can contact Darimo directly and see if you can get them even lighter... Go on, I dare you! 

+ Maximal aero gains - Harder cable routing - Expensive

The majority of top-end race bikes nowadays come with a fully integrated cockpit, meaning the bar and stem are a single piece. This saves weight but primarily adds aerodynamic benefits. We do still see many pros opting to use separate systems, and while many are semi-proprietary you can still pick up an aftermarket option if you want to really go all out on aero. They're not cheap, with this option from Vision clocking in at just under $690, and they are certainly more of a pain to work on, but if you want the best frontal area then this is the way to go. 

+ Helpful for taller riders + Narrow widths - Look a bit funny Having a bike that fits you is imperative, but for various reasons, you may find the front end of the bike just isn't high enough for you. Maybe you're really tall, or maybe like me, you've had back issues that mean you can't get into a super low position on certain bikes. Riser bars like these from ControlTech add 10mm of height to the front end and come in a 38cm wide option which isn't always easy to find. There's a bit of a visual penalty, but can you put a price on comfort?

There is every chance that you've gone over the products in the quick list and still aren't totally sure what you're after. I get it, there are so many options, and it's tricky to work out what you're after. My advice is to really hone in on what you like and don't like about your current setup and go from there. 

If you have a set of alloy ergo bars and just want to make your bike lighter then think about swapping to carbon. If you're not fussed about weight but want some aero improvements then an alloy aero bar is the section to look at. If you want to be able to get a little lower then look up the drop figure for your bars and find something in the same market segment with a similar shape but a larger drop. A bit of forethought up front will stop you from feeling bemused when faced with such an array of options. 

Because there isn't really a perfect handlebar I've also curated a few more options for each category below, to save you scrolling endlessly through online retailers. 

From a price-performance ratio, this is probably the most cost-effective of all the categories. You get the added benefit of increased aerodynamics, without the burdensome cost of carbon. Sure, there will be a weight penalty, but above a relatively sedate 15kph aerodynamics trumps weight, and as the relationship between speed and air resistance isn't linear, but a square, the faster you go the benefits multiply.

If the Vision Trimax Aero doesn't float your boat then you could look at the Prime Doyenne Aero, which is relatively cheap, has internal cable routing, a pronounced wing top section, and the drops extend rearwards further than many. If you don't want such a wing shape, the PLT Compact Ergo from Pro is more of a traditional ergo drop, but with a more subtle flattening of the tops that's halfway between an aero bar and something ergonomically instigated. It doesn't have internal routing, but smaller riders may like this as it comes in a 36cm width. If you want a bit of a flare to the drops then the Bontrager Elite Aero VR-CF could be up your street. It's got a 4-degree outward sweep and semi-internal cable routing if you want to keep the front end a little neater.

If price is your number one priority then it's really hard to look past the budget options from Brand X. Not just the model above, but the compact version with ergonomic shaping on the tops. They'll be totally functional, pass all required safety tests, and may be a little heavy. If you want something affordable but from a more well-known brand then there are plenty of options out there, though they may be a little more expensive than the truly budget Brand X offerings.

Deda has the Zero RHM, a classic ergo drop that comes in under £30 at full price, and at the time of writing is discounted, though getting narrower widths will be tricky. Similarly, you could go for the Comp Curve from Ritchey, which is similarly priced but comes in a 38cm option, or the Compact Vero from FSA which is a hair deeper and has more reach than the Ritchey option, but only by a few millimetres. 

Are you building up a classic bike? Want traditional round drop bars but don't fancy the Deda Zero100 Deep? Well, I can't say I blame you necessarily, as they are extremely deep. You could try the Zero100 Shallow, which is basically the same but, you guessed it, shallower, and probably better suited to more riders.

Failing that there's the perennial Ritchey Classic Neoclassic, which has the advantage of coming in silver for those of you who've been hoarding vintage campagnolo groupsets, or there's the Zipp Service Course SL-88 which has a 3-degree outward sweep to the drops for those who prefer a little bit of flare. Finally, you could also try the Energy Traditional bar from FSA which has a 2-degree outsweep down below. 

I suspect this is going to be the main event for many of you, especially if you're putting together a bike from the ground up. It's where there are the most options out there, and consequently where there is the most potential for confusion. I will allay any fears though; having tried a tonne of compact drops over the years they are all extremely similar. Unless you go for something from the fringes with a lot of flare, a lot of reach, or a larger drop they will all feel relatively similar, so you can focus more on things like weight, or which brand logo you want peeping out either side of your stem.

The Prime Doyenne Lightweight Alloy bar is especially useful for smaller riders as it comes in a 36cm width, which isn't always easy to find, and has a reasonable price tag too. The similarly priced Short Reach Bars from Specialized will also work for most applications and come in an all-matte finish, in contrast to the glossy mid-section of the prime. 

If you want something a little more radical then take a look at the WCS Skyline from Ritchey. The tops are ovalised and backswept, which I've always enjoyed on other Ritchey handlebars. The main point of difference though is the drops, which feature a much more angled shape, giving you a long, flat section in the hook of the drops if that's where you like to spend a lot of time riding.

While alloy aero bars may offer performance advantages at a lower price point, for those with deeper pockets or a greater obsession with weight carbon aero bars are the way to go, if you're not going all in on an integrated cockpit.

If the Pro Vibe option isn't to your tastes then you could cosplay at being Wount Van Aert with a set of Vision Metron 4D bars. There's a 'Flat' version with flat, wing-shaped hoods, or an ergo version where there is a slight rise after the clamp area, leaving the wings to slope downwards. To my mind the flat version makes more sense, as if you're buying aero bars you're not planning on spending a great deal of time on the tops anyway, so making them more ergonomic is a little daft. Also be aware the drops kink outwards near their terminus at the base of the curve, putting the base of the drops wider for descending control, but keeping the frontal area more narrow. 

Prime has the Primavera bar, which is noticeably cheaper than most other options, has internal routing and comes in a greater range of widths (down to 36cm). Given that opting for a narrower bar will probably save you more watts than swapping from a round to an aero top section, this could be the best bang for your buck of any carbon bar. The only downside is the drops truncate rapidly after the curve, so you'll be riding more in the hook of the bar than on the bottom section unless you opt for some bar extenders (a useful upgrade if you want to ride more on the flat section).

Finally, you could opt for the EC70 bar from Easton. It doesn't do anything that the others don't, but it is another option that's more competitively priced than options from the likes of Pro and Vision. You can't get narrower than 40cm, but you do get a giant "EASTON" logo across the whole winged section so everyone will know which brand you're riding. 

In all honesty, there isn't really anything that matches the Brand X option for budget carbon. The next closest thing would be the Prime Primavera X-Light, which is a great option but double the price. It is similar in shape, on the curve at least, to the WCS Skyline from Ritchey, with a much more angular profile, which may appeal to some.

Bad news, sports fans... From my extensive searching if you want a classic drop bar made from carbon you're limited to the Ritchey WCS Carbon Neoclassic.

In a similar way to the alloy compact segment, this is where most carbon bars fall on the bell curve, so there are more options to choose from, and also as with the alloy bars, they will all to some degree feel relatively similar. 

If you need a jumping-off point the Ritchey Carbon Evocurve is as good a place as any. I really enjoy the Evocurve shape, and it's especially good if you spend a lot of time on the tops. It has internal routing, though on carbon bars nowadays this is basically ubiquitous. 

The S-Works Shallow Bend bar is just a carbon copy (pun intended) of the alloy version mentioned above. It's a very bread-and-butter shape with a straight top section and a pretty impressive weight at 200g for a 42cm wide bar. 

The Enve Compact Road bar has a more pronounced flattening of its upper section, though not to the same degree as any of the aero offerings, but unlike many others it's flared, and has a curve that extends rearwards for a lot longer. If you like spending time at the end of your drops rather than inside the curve then these may well be the choice for you.

These are definitely going to be the bling-est upgrades you can make to your bike, but unless you're building a bike with low weight being the absolute priority (I'm thinking hill climb bikes here), you will likely get a greater performance advantage from going aero instead.

While the Darimo option is bonkers light, Schmolke has several options that are almost as feathery, but in a wider array of shapes. Ironically, Lightweight makes the heaviest of the superlight, sub 200g bars with its KOMPAKTBÜGEL (yes, it is all capitalised for some reason). 

Any of these will be sure to raise some eyebrows at the cafe, and all will put a dent in your wallet.

There's every chance that if you have an integrated cockpit it's because it came on your new bike. Given how many of these systems are proprietary or at least semi-proprietary if you're looking to replace it the best place to start is probably with the original component manufacturer. 

If you want to add a one-piece system to your bike and it has a separate bar and stem combo on it at the moment then you're more free to choose from any options. The Vision option listed above is one of many, but instead of that, you could easily go for the incredibly space-age-looking Pro Vibe Evo, which gets used in the pro peloton, or the new Roval Rapide cockpit, also now a mainstay on the bikes of Specialized sponsored teams. 

While most integrated cockpits prioritise low drag, the Roval Alpinist is an integrated bar and stem combo with the look of more traditional round profile bars, but weighs in at 220g for a 42cm x 110mm set, which is lighter than many standalone bars!

Riser bars are going to be more of a fit consideration than anything to do with aero or weight. If the ControlTech set doesn't do it for you, then Specialized has the Hoverbar that comes as standard on all its Roubaix models but is also available aftermarket. Likewise, you could opt for the Ritchey WCS Ergomax, perhaps the most ergonomically sculpted of all the Ritchey bars, with gentle swooping curves and ovalised tops, along with a slight flare. 

Finally, Surly has its Truck Stop Bar, with a whopping 30mm of rise. It only comes in widths of 42cm or wider, however, but could be the answer if you've accidentally bought a bike with a steerer tube totally chopped down.

What width handlebar do I need?

The basic rule of thumb is to opt for a bar that's the same width as the bony protrusions on the top of your shoulders, but this isn't the full story. For greater control or confidence over rougher terrain a wider bar may be better for you, though too wide and you'll come into fit issues as you'll effectively be having to lean further forward. Likewise, a narrower bar will be both lighter and reduce your frontal area meaning you're more aerodynamic. 

The best thing to do, in an ideal world, is to consult a bike fitter. For years I laboured under the misapprehension that I needed 40cm bars, going as wide as 44cm on my gravel bike. My fitter put me on 38cm bars and I've yet to look back.

Bear in mind that width is generally measured at the centre of the tubes at the hoods, but Deda for example measures outside to outside, and also bear in mind that any flare will make the drops wider than the hoods. 

What is reach and drop?

Reach is the distance from the horizontal part of the handlebar to the furthest edge of the drops and determines how far away the levers will be placed. Bigger riders will need a more extended reach while shorter riders will be more comfortable with a smaller figure. 

Drop refers to the distance from your tops to your drops. Most people are better suited to a shorter drop because it doesn't require quite as much flexibility, but a lower front end should theoretically result in a smaller frontal area, which in turn requires fewer watts for faster speeds. All in moderation though, as saving 10 aero watts won't benefit you if you lose 20 due to discomfort. It's also worth bearing in mind the most aero position is with your forearms horizontal while holding the hoods, but again this is harder to maintain for longer distances.

Which shape of drops should I choose?

The shape of the drops varies from brand to brand, but they are roughly divided into three categories. Compact, traditional, and ergo. 

Traditional bars are what you expect to see on old school road bikes with a long gentle curve which creates a deep drop and a low position. Compact bars are a bit straighter and put the hoods flatly in line with the tops; the bend into the drops is tighter, meaning it’s also higher. Ergo bars seem to fall somewhere in the middle and feature a flat spot part of the way down the drop.

Bar shape is highly personal, and you want to look for bars which create the least amount of bend in your wrist when you grab the drops — how you like to position your hoods will also come into play.

Are carbon handlebars better than aluminium ones?

Better in what way? They are certainly lighter, but grams matter less than drag coefficients. Carbon is easier to shape into unusual forms to really cheat the wind, so carbon aero bars and particularly single-piece cockpits are technically going to be 'better', as they are lighter, stiffer, and the most aero, but they are almost always far more expensive. The best price-to-performance ratio will come from alloy aero bars, but for many of us switching bars is more about ergonomics than speed.

What is meant by 'clamping diameter'?

The clamping diameter is in regards to the diameter of the very central portion of the handlebars, where the stem clamps onto them. For the most part, road handlebars are 31.8mm (you can view this as 'normal'). Older bars sometimes come in 25.4mm, but this is unusual, and more common on more classic-style bars, or very old-fashioned steel options to pair with quill stems. 

If you are changing handlebars and ordering yourself some new ones, you will need to make sure the handlebar diameter matches the stem clamp size to ensure the bars and stem will fit properly together.

Which handlebar will fit the most accessories?

If you like to clamp lights, computers, bar bags, a bell etc on your bars then a simple set with a horizontal top and round tubing will be the best. Aero bars, and even ergonomically shaped options, reduce the real estate available onto which you can clamp things. Look at the Pro Vibe bars for example; without a Pro-branded very slimline computer mount there is nowhere to mount anything.  

Do all handlebars have internal cable routing?

No, but it's becoming increasingly more common. If you don't have internal cable routing then you can still use bars without access ports worry-free, but if you require cable routing then you need to make sure your new bars have the required holes. Some bars have exit ports before the stem clamp, some within the stem clamp area, and some both, so cross-check with your current bike to avoid any fitting issues. 

What's the point of curved handlebars?

If you're coming to the road (and gravel) riding from flat bars you may be wondering why the silly-looking bars. The short answer is just to provide multiple hand positions, which comes in handy on longer rides. You can hold the hoods, you can hold the tops, and you have several different options down below with the curved portion. All of these move your wrists and hands about and help to reduce fatigue. 

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Will joined the Cyclingnews team as a reviews writer in 2022, having previously written for Cyclist, BikeRadar and Advntr. There are very few types of cycling he's not dabbled in, and he has a particular affection for older bikes and long lasting components. Road riding was his first love, before graduating to racing CX in Yorkshire. He's been touring on a vintage tandem all the way through to fixed gear gravel riding and MTB too. When he's not out riding one of his many bikes he can usually be found in the garage tinkering with another of them, or getting obsessive about tyres. Also, as he doesn't use Zwift, he's our go-to guy for bad weather testing... bless him.

Rides: Custom Zetland Audax, Bowman Palace:R, Peugeot Grand Tourisme Tandem, Falcon Explorer Tracklocross, Fairlight Secan & Strael

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Road Bike Handlebar Guide: Choosing the Perfect Handlebar

Handlebars are one of the three touchpoints on a bike, along with the saddle and pedals. Yet, despite significantly influencing ride quality, riders tend to overlook them when setting up their bikes. 

Finding a suitable road bike handlebar for your body and preferences can increase performance, comfort, and control . Aerodynamics, steering sensitivity, and brake leverage are all impacted by handlebar choice. 

The variation in each person’s anatomy and flexibility makes it tricky to find the best road bike handlebars. Thankfully, there is a huge selection of shapes and sizes on the market. 

This article will cover the key considerations for choosing handlebars for a road bike so you can make a more informed choice. However, we also recommend visiting a professional bike fitter if you struggle to find a comfortable fit. 

You can also read our complete guide on different types of handlebars for an even more detailed overview.

Why are road bike handlebars different?

Road bike handlebars are different as the demands of road racing are unique and extreme. Firstly, the forward and down position puts a lot of weight through the arms and wrists, meaning you need the option to swap between hand positions to relieve pressure and make climbing efforts.

Secondly, riding in the drops gives the rider more control and brake leverage when descending or cornering. Finally, the drops’ position is also aerodynamic and comfortable enough to ride in for extended periods. 

Materials 

In general, road bike handlebars are made using carbon fiber or aluminum. Aluminum is more common as it is significantly cheaper than carbon, less likely to break in a crash, and provides similar ride characteristics. 

Carbon handlebars are lighter but more expensive and more prone to damage, making them impractical for the average rider.

Carbon is lighter and stiffer and gives manufacturers more control over the shape of the tubing. In addition, it has better vibration-reduction characteristics, improving comfort slightly.

However, it is more likely to snap or crack in a crash and usually costs two to three times more. For these reasons, it is typically found on expensive best road bikes only. 

Are carbon handlebars worth it on a road bike?

We think carbon handlebars aren’t worth it for a road bike. The cost-benefit ratio doesn’t justify it for the average cyclist.

However, it may be worthwhile if you’re a competitive rider looking for a competitive edge. An aluminum handlebar that fits and is well-made is perfect for most road cyclists.

Bicycle Frame Material Guide: Aluminum, Carbon, and Steel and Titanium Examined

If you’re looking to upgrade a component on your bike for a performance benefit, a better set of wheels or tires will deliver more bang for your buck than switching to a carbon handlebars road bike.

If you want to improve comfort, it’s a good idea to first get the best handlebar tape for your needs before investing in new handlebars.

Shape and Ergonomics

Handlebar shape and ergonomics go hand in hand. Manufacturers designed new styles over the years to enhance comfort and ergonomics for the average cyclist. Today, there are three main handlebar types for a road bike.

Compact vs Ergo vs Traditional road bars illustrated. | Image source: Zipp

The trend has been toward shallow drop, short reach compact bars, away from the long and deep traditional design; between these two styles lie ‘ergonomic’ bars.

• Traditional bars are much less common in modern cycling, even at a professional level. This is because the long reach and aggressive positioning require a lot of flexibility in the posterior chain (hamstrings, hips, and lower back). In addition, it’s harder to reach the brake levers while riding in the hoods.
• The most common road bike handlebars are now compact ones. These have a short drop and reach, creating a more upright and relaxed ride position. In addition, switching between the hoods and drops on compact bars requires a smaller movement, and the brake levers are easier to reach in both hand positions. For these reasons, recreational road cyclists mostly use compact bars . 
• Ergonomic handlebars (also called variable curve bars) fall in the middle of traditional and compact in terms of reach and drop. These bars also typically have a flat section within the hook to improve wrist comfort. 

Tops: Effects of Different Shapes

In recent years, as material manufacturing processes advanced, companies began modifying the shape of the tops to improve aerodynamics or comfort. As a result, you can now find oval bars, round ones, or flat aero handlebars on road bikes.

Road bike handlebars with flat tops are more aerodynamic and more comfortable, especially on climbs. | Image source: trekbikes.com

Flat-top bars are the most aerodynamic of the three, making them the go-to choice for aero road bikes. They reduce drag by decreasing the surface area at the front of the bar and using a long flat surface on top that slices through the wind more efficiently. 

Oval-shaped bars are slightly more ergonomic and comfortable to hold, while round ones are the most straightforward to manufacture. 

Integration

Handlebar road bike integration is a common feature of modern mid and high-end models. It looks great and improves aerodynamics, saving you some watts, but it can have negative knock-on consequences.

Integrated road bike handlebars look good and have better aerodynamics, but offer less adjustability. | Image source: trekbikes.com

Full integration is when the cockpit is one solid unit connecting to the frame at a single point. Unfortunately, this design restricts fit adjustments, makes cable routing difficult, and means you cannot swap out the handlebars.

Alternatively, a semi-integrated cockpit has a separate stem and handlebar, allowing for more adjustability, easier cable routing, and swapping between handlebars. 

Do drop bars make you faster?

Yes, drop bars make you faster compared to flat bars. Road bike handlebars allow the rider to assume a more aerodynamic position (down and forward) than the upright position of flat bars. For this reason, most racing bikes (road, cyclocross, gravel) have drop bars. 

Aerodynamic drag is the most significant resistance you experience on gradients of less than 7%. As a result, reducing drag will make you much faster. 

Though it’s good to know that you can achieve an equally aerodynamic position by riding on the hoods with your forearms parallel to the ground as you can in the drops. 

Drop and Reach

As we’ve seen, two of the most important handlebar measurements are reach and drop. They dictate how far forward and down a rider’s position will be.

Reach is the horizontal distance between the center point of the tops to the center of the forwardmost part of the drops. A longer reach means you’ll stretch further forward when riding. Handlebar reach typically ranges between 75mm to 90mm. 

Handlebar drop and reach are two of the most important measurements to take into consideration, in addition to bar width.

Drop is the vertical distance from the center point of the stem clamp area to the center point of the end of the bar. Drop typically ranges from 120mm to 150mm. A longer drop means you have to make a bigger movement to get into the drops position, requiring more flexibility. It’s worth noting that larger hands may not fit in the bend of a short-drop handlebar. 

Another two factors that affect handlebar fit are rise and sweep. Rise is the vertical distance between the clamp point and the flats. Road bike handlebars with rise will create a slightly more upright, comfortable riding position.

The sweep is the angle at which the bars extend horizontally from the clamp point. Changing this angle allows manufacturers to change the ergonomics of the hand position when climbing, for example.

Width 

Finding the correct road bike handlebar width for your body is essential for comfort and avoiding unnecessary pains. Most riders can use a small range of bar widths (two or three sizes) and still be comfortable. 

Getting the right handlebar width for your shoulder width is crucial for proper fit and painless cycling.

On bars without flare, the width is measured horizontally from the center point of each drop. However, some manufacturers measure from the outer edge of bars. The typical range of widths is from 36cm to 46cm, increasing in increments of two centimeters. 

As mentioned, the same rider may be comfortable riding different widths, for example, 38cm, 40cm, and 42cm bars. If this is the case, you can choose the wider bars for extra handling stability or narrower bars to improve aerodynamics by keeping the arms tucked in closer to the body. 

How are road handlebars measured?

Road handlebars are typically measured by width, drop length, and reach. A specific handlebar style may be available in a set drop and reach, with a range of width options in two-centimeter increments. This system allows you to choose your preferred handlebar shape that matches your shoulder width. 

Another important measurement is tube diameter. The standard diameter of road bike handlebars is 25.4mm (traditional) or 31.8mm (modern). This wider design was introduced as it is stiffer and stronger. Always check that your current stem is compatible with your selected diameter when purchasing new bars. 

What size handlebars should I get?

Image source: shimanocyclingworld.com

The size of handlebars you should get typically corresponds to your shoulder width , height, and flexibility. To measure your shoulder width, run a tape from the boney points on top of your shoulders (your acromioclavicular joints), which will roughly correspond to your required handlebar width. 

As mentioned, riders are typically comfortable using one size on either side of their shoulder width. Ideally, you want your arms running with a slight taper outward or parallel when your hands are on the drops. 

Your flexibility, height, and wingspan contribute to your choice of reach and drop. In most cases, it’s better to choose shorter compact bars as they’re more comfortable.

Are narrow handlebars better?

No, narrow handlebars aren’t necessarily better. Your anatomy and personal preference determine the size you choose. No specific size handlebar is objectively better than the next. 

For some riders, narrow bars allow them to assume a more aerodynamic position without sacrificing comfort. However, for many road cyclists, handlebars that are shoulder width or slightly wider will be the most comfortable.

We recommend starting with wider bars as a beginner because they reduce handling sensitivity, making the bike easier to control at high speeds. 

Flared Handlebars

Flared handlebars negatively impact aerodynamics but significantly improve stability and control, which is why many gravel bikes have them.

Handlebar flare is the degree to which the drops slope outward from the upper section. To measure flare, take the horizontal distance between the center of the drop bar to the center of the shifter clamping point. 

In general, road bike handlebars have little to none. In contrast, gravel bars utilize significant flare (12 to 16 degrees) to enhance control when using the drops. 

Adjusting Your Road Bike Handlebar

Adjusting your road bike handlebar position to a comfortable and efficient setting without the help of a professional bike fitting takes a lot of trial and error . If you struggle to find a comfortable position, we recommend doing a DIY bike fit or going to a professional bike fitter.

If you don’t want to replace your bars, you can try the following three or four minor cockpit modifications to increase the comfort of your position.

Integrated handlebars look good but can’t be adjusted as easily as standard road bike handlebars.

Firstly, you can swap your stem for a longer or shorter one. Change stem length if you’re overstretching to reach the hoods or feel squashed. 

Another cheap and effective way to modify your position on the bike is to add or remove spacers. These raise or lower the stack. In most cases, adding one or two spacers will create a more comfortable, upright position. 

How to Measure a Bike Frame — Our Easy-to-Follow Guide

Finally, you can modify the road bike handlebar angle to find a more comfortable hand position. Change the angle of your bars by loosening the stem bolts and tilting the handlebar up or down slightly. Additionally, you can try pointing the hoods inward if it is more comfortable for your wrists. 

Road bike handlebar tape can also impact the comfort of your ride. Thick, gel-padded handlebar tape will significantly reduce road vibrations. In contrast, old worn bar tape loses its cushioning effect. 

Can I put flat handlebars on a road bike?

Yes, you can put flat handlebars on a road bike, but doing so may change the manufacturer’s intended geometry and handling. Alternatively, you can purchase a purpose-built flat bar road bike like the Canyon Roadlite.

These bikes are a solid choice for cyclists who want the speed of a road bike but aren’t confident or flexible enough for the aggressive position of drop handlebars. 

How do I make my road bike handlebars more comfortable?

To make your road bike handlebars more comfortable, you should first check that they are the correct width for you, that the reach and drop aren’t too short or long, and that the bars are set high enough (using spacers). Alternatively, you can use shock-absorbent bar tape to reduce vibrations. 

Measure your shoulder width, the distance between the boney protrusions on the top of your shoulders, and compare it to the handlebar width, the distance between the center point of the two drops. These numbers should be within 2cm of each other. 

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Best road bike handlebars 2024: how to choose them and best reviewed handlebars

The best bike handlebars are an oft overlooked upgrade - we explain why they're so important and outline what to look for when you 're shopping for a new pair

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The Quick List

Best budget

Best flared

Best narrow width

The Best Road Handlebars Buyers Guide

Best road handlebars 2024: jump menu.

The list in brief ↴

Carbon bars 1. Best budget 2. Best flared 3. Best narrow width

Alloy bars 1. Best flared 2. Best narrow width 3. Best aero

Advice A guide to buying the right bars for you

There are three key touch points that connect you to your bike: pedals , saddle, and handlebars. Most cyclists invest a fair amount of time into selecting the first two with military precision - but the best road bike handlebars are often forgotten.

Choosing the ideal handlebars for you can have a huge effect on your comfort and performance, for they play a significant role in determining your position and weight distribution, making them one of the best road bike upgrades you can make.

Though of course movements such as cornering should come largely from shifts in body weight, your handlebars are pretty crucial too - and if they're the weak link in the chain then upgrading them can have a noticeable effect.

To help you find the right bars for you, we've selected six of our favourites - three carbon pairs and three alloy pairs. We've looked to include bars with varying attributes, including narrow width, aero and flared options. To further assist you we've also answered a few of the commonly asked questions when it comes to choosing the best road handlebars.

Carbon bars

You can trust Cycling Weekly. Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

A lightweight aero bar with good cable integration and a comfort-inducing shape, at a price that's hard to beat.

Read more below

Designed to enhance your aerodynamic position, they match a narrow hood width with some flare at the drops.

Offered in a 36cm width, the shape is great for smaller hands, but does come with an S-Works price tag.

An exceptional all-road bar, combining bags of comfort and control in a lightweight package.

If you need a high-performing road bar in a 36cm width that's also budget friendly these won't disappoint. 

A stylish bar with solid aero properties and a compact shape thats aids smooth hand position changes.

The best carbon road handlebars: Our picks

Best budget carbon bars.

1. Prime Primavera Aero carbon handlebars

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

When we first reviewed the carbon Primavera Aero bars, the smallest size was a 38cm - but now, these start from 36cm and go all the way up to 44cm - giving riders of all shapes and sizes an affordable option in the carbon aero category. 

As for the other dimensions, they opt for a relatively 'short and shallow' approach, combining a 122mm drop with a 76.5mm reach. We found the compact shape to be 'spot on'. Likewise, we also appreciated what we felt was just the right amount of  stiffness. They felt rock solid, with no noticeable flexing,  but importantly this didn't translate to harsh ride feel. Add to this the neat internal cable routing and exceptional value for a carbon option, and they come highly recommended. The only downside was a lack of markings to help out with set-up, but once you've got them fitted, there isn't much we can fault.

Read more: Prime Primavera Aero handlebars full review

Best flared carbon bars

2. Enve SES Aero handlebars

If you perhaps thought that flared bars were for gravel riding only, then think again. A narrow hood width combined with a flare at the drops has become pretty popular in the pro peloton, thanks to its ability to aid a more aggressively aero riding position. 

Enve were early adopters of this design and the fact that its SES Aero bars are still in production - and now with the updated 'IN-Route' system that's designed to work with most internally routed front ends - is proof of their appeal.

Typically when buying bars the stated width measurement relates to the hood width but here it's the drops. This means that the 42cm actually measures just 37cm at the hoods. If you're looking to narrow your front end for racing purposes, then it's likely the SES will be a good fit. However, aerodynamically advantageous positions aren't always the most comfortable to hold, meaning this might not be the best option if your looking for a versatile bar that can be used for endurance rides, for example.

We last reviewed these bars some years ago, and without the integrated cabling, so look out for a new review soon. 

Best narrow width carbon bars

3. Specialized S-Works Shallow Bend handlebars

Finding narrow width bars isn't always the easiest, with many models starting at 38mm or 40mm. Fortunately Specialized has made a habit of releasing its bars in a 36cm width, which is ideal for those smaller in stature. 

The S-Works Shallow Bend, as their name suggest, are.a compact offering. They blend a short 123mm drop with an equally short 75mm reach. Combine this design with the 36cm width option and you really have.bar that's well-suited to those with smaller hands. We loved this shape in the alloy version, finding it to be supremely comfortable.

Being a carbon bar -  using Specialized's FACT construction - you also get the combination of stiff and light. In the 42cm width version they have a claimed weight of just 200g.

We'll be reviewing the bars soon so check back for more details.

The best alloy road handlebars: Our picks

Best flared alloy bars.

1. Zipp SL-70 XPLR handlebars

While many gravel bars offer a significant amount of flare in the drops for better control on off-road terrain, there are a few options that are well suited to road riding too - and Zipp's SL-70 XPLR bars are possibly the best example.

The 11-degree outsweep and five degrees of flare at the drops adds control and comfort without producing a extreme position at the hood, as some flared bars do. Combined with the short and shallow reach and the ergo tops and you have what we found to be a perfect all-road bar, ideally matched to long rides over less than perfect tarmac. 

Read more: Zipp Service Course SL-70 XPLR handlebar full review

2. Specialized Expert Alloy Shallow Bend handlebars

As with Specialized's carbon shallow drop, the alloy version are offered in a 36cm width size and feature the same design that's ideal for riders with smaller hands, thanks to the shallow drop of 123mm, and the short reach of 75mm.

However, unlike the carbon option, these are keenly priced making them an inexpensive upgrade or a good option for a race bike, where a crash can prove costly in more ways than one of you're riding carbon fibre bars. Being made from butted aluminium they're strong but still impressively light - when we reviewed the bars out 36cm size tipped the scales at just 263g.

Read more: Specialized Expert Alloy Shallow Bend handlebars full review

Best aero alloy handlebars

3. Deda Superzero DCR alloy handlebars

Deda's Superzero DCR are an affordable aero handlebar that are designed to mimic the aero styling and performance of the Italian's brands far more expensive carbon options.

They feature the flat profile that you'd expect from a bar that's designed to reduce drag. Deda's Rapid Hand Movement shape is in play here - this means a shallow drop and short reach created for cyclists who like to change hand position often. In terms of the numbers, this equates to a reach of 75mm and a drop of 130mm. Other features include internal cable routing and compatibility with Deda's DCR stems.

We'll be reviewing the Superzero DCR alloy handlebars soon, so check back for more details from our testing. 

How wide should my road bars be?

The bars that come specced on a new bike are an estimate based upon the average shoulder width of the average person riding a bike in your size.

As most cyclists will protest, none of us are truly average, so tailoring the bars to suit you is a good idea. This is particularly relevant for women who have bought a unisex bike over a female specific bike: most women have narrower shoulders compared to men of the same height so will want a narrower handlebar.

Bars that are too wide can put pressure on your neck and arms, and will make riding the bike feel a bit like driving a truck. To the contrary, narrow bars will make you feel cramped, but it's worth remembering that narrower bars will bring your elbows in, having quite a significant impact upon aerodynamics.

The rule of thumb when selecting the correct handlebar width is to measure the distance between the two bony bits on your shoulders - in more scientific terms the distance between your two acromioclavicular (AC) joints.

This measurement gives you a baseline - if it's 38cm, look for 38cm bars - and so on. However, personal preference and riding style play a role, too. If, for example, aerodynamics are important to you, perhaps opt one size down.

Some riders like the stability afforded by slightly wider bars - so you could opt to go one size up - to a 40cm bar. However, this will mean that you are having to move your arms out to reach the levers, causing your shoulder blades to collapse which can cause discomfort.

The standard approach is to measure from the centre of the drops, but some brands measure from the outside, meaning their 40cm bar could be a 38cm in the former approach. It's best to check what approach the manufacturer you have in mind takes.

What is the best road bar shape for me?

When it comes to handlebar width, though you can go up or down a bit depending on preference, there is a right and a wrong answer: too narrow or too wide will cause you pain and have bike fitters all over the world wincing. However, in the case of handlebar shape, it's much more down to personal preference.

Traditionally, road bars had a gentle round curve, which created a deep drop, putting the rider in a low position when off the hoods.

In recent years, compact handlebars have become more popular: these feature a straighter shape, which means the lower section of the drop is higher up. In the middle, are ergonomic bars: rounder than traditional bars, but they have a flat section in the centre which is ideal for hand positioning.

Choosing the best handlebar shape for you comes down to your riding style. If you're after fairly relaxed endurance rides, think compact.

If you want eyeballs out, nose to the bar time trial efforts and tend to hold the bars close to the bottom of the drops, think traditional.

Sitting in the middle, if you want a fair drop and tend to hold the bar right at its centre point, look for ergo bars where doing so won't put pressure on your wrists.

Different manufacturers will shape their bars their own way, and you'll also find adventure road bikes, gravel bikes and cyclocross bikes will sweep them out at the end to create a wider and more stable platform when riding in the drops.

What is the best material for road handlebars?

One of the biggest conundrums facing cyclists upgrading their handlebars is the question of what material to choose.

Carbon handlebars drop the weight of the bike and they're often 20 to 40 per cent lighter than their alloy brethren. The material can also be moulded to any shape, permitting it to be perfectly designed to suit the ideal ergonomic fit. Plus, the carbon layup can be fine turned to create the best mix between strength, low weight and compliance. All sounds perfect?

The problem with carbon handlebars is that they're much more expensive, and a bit more fragile. Though carbon can be very strong, if it's damaged, it's not always as readily apparent as it would be on an aluminium bar and could go undetected.

Not only that, carbon needs to be treated with more care in the workshop - or home workshop - and even if you're using one of the best torque wrenches for bikes it's easier to crack if the wrong settings are used. A further con is the simple fact that aluminium bars are a lot cheaper.

What are aero handlebars and do I need them?

Aero road bikes are becoming increasing popular, and the handlebar set-up plays a huge role in decreasing drag.

Handlebars that improve aerodynamics will often present a smaller surface area at the front, flattening out to create a longer surface area on the top.

This means they slice through the air more efficiently, and also has the added bonus of being comfortable to hold on a long climb. Plus, aero handlebars will be designed to cater for internal cable routing.

More premium versions will champion a high level of integration. The bar and stem may be one unit, and mounts for items such as cycling computers could be built in.

The bonus here is the watt saving. The downside is that if you decide you want to make a change to your fit with a shorter or longer stem, you'll need to fork out for an entirely new unit.

Is there a standard diameter for road handlebars?

An actually quite important yet seemingly boring housekeeping point. Standard diameter handlebars used to always measure 25.4mm - this refers to the centre point where the stem will attach. 

However, some brands are choosing to beef them up to 31.8mm for improved stiffness. This is fine, but you'll need a stem with a matching clamp size: no one wants to arrive home with their new purchase to find they've not got a stem to fit.

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Luke Friend has worked as a writer, editor and copywriter for twenty five years. Across books, magazines and websites, he's covered a broad range of topics for a range of clients including Major League Baseball, the National Trust and the NHS. He has an MA in Professional Writing from Falmouth University and is a qualified bicycle mechanic. He has been a cycling enthusiast from an early age, partly due to watching the Tour de France on TV. He's a keen follower of bike racing to this day as well as a regular road and gravel rider. 

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Unleash Your Inner Geek on a Bike

How to Raise the Handlebars on a Trek Bike

Shahed Parvej

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To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, you can either get a stem riser or replace the stem with one that has a higher rise or a larger angle. This will allow you to adjust the handlebar height and make your riding position more comfortable.

Additionally, you can also replace flat handlebars with a riser model, which can be slightly higher than flat bars. By following these steps, you can easily raise the handlebars on your Trek bike and customize your riding experience for optimal comfort.

Step 1: Assessing Your Handlebar Height

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, start by assessing the handlebar height. This can be done by adjusting the stem or using a stem riser. Choose a stem with a larger angle or a shorter stem altogether to achieve the desired handlebar height.

Before you can start raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, you need to assess the current handlebar position. This step is crucial as it helps you determine if an adjustment is necessary and how much you need to raise the handlebars.

Checking The Current Handlebar Position

To check the current handlebar position, follow these steps:

• Stand in front of your bike and ensure it is on a level surface.
• Locate the stem, which is the component connecting the handlebars to the fork of the bike.
• Note the position of the stem in relation to the steerer tube. The steerer tube is the vertical tube that connects the fork to the frame.
• Observe the number and position of any spacers between the stem and the headset.

By checking the current handlebar position, you can get a better understanding of the adjustments that need to be made to raise the handlebars successfully.

Identifying The Need For Adjustment

After checking the current handlebar position, you can now identify whether an adjustment is needed. Here are a few signs that indicate the need to raise the handlebars:

• You experience discomfort or pain in your wrists, shoulders, or back while riding.
• Your riding posture feels too hunched over, causing strain on your neck.
• Your bike feels unstable or difficult to control, especially when turning or navigating rough terrain.
• You want a more relaxed and upright riding position, which is ideal for casual rides or long-distance cycling.

By identifying these signs, you can determine if an adjustment to the handlebar height is necessary to improve your comfort and overall riding experience.

Step 2: Tools And Materials Needed

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, you may need tools such as a stem riser or a stem with a higher angle or shorter length. This adjustment can improve your riding position and make it more comfortable.

Step 3: Loosening The Stem Bolts

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, start by loosening the stem bolts. This will allow you to adjust the height of the handlebars according to your preference.

Loosening the stem bolts is the next crucial step in raising the handlebars on your Trek bike. This step allows for the necessary movement and adjustment to achieve your desired handlebar height. Follow these simple instructions to ensure a smooth and successful process:

Preparing The Bike For Handlebar Adjustment

• Find a suitable workspace where you can comfortably work on your bike.
• Ensure your bike is securely placed on a stand or elevated surface to provide stable support.
• Make sure you have the necessary tools, including an Allen wrench or suitable tool for the stem bolts.

Loosening The Bolts To Allow Movement

Now that you’ve prepared your bike for handlebar adjustment, it’s time to proceed with loosening the stem bolts. Follow these steps:

• Locate the stem bolts on the top of your bike’s steerer tube. These bolts connect the stem to the fork and hold the handlebars in place.
• Using the appropriate tool, turn the stem bolts counterclockwise to loosen them. Be sure to loosen each bolt evenly to allow for a balanced adjustment.
• Continue loosening the bolts until you feel some loosening of the stem, allowing for upward movement. Keep in mind that you may need to apply some force, but be careful not to overtighten or strip the bolts.
• Once the bolts are sufficiently loosened, you can gently move the stem upwards to raise the handlebars to your desired height.

Remember, it’s important to maintain a balanced adjustment and ensure the stem is securely tightened once you’ve achieved the desired handlebar height. This will provide stability and safety while riding your Trek bike.

In the next step, we will discuss how to securely tighten the stem bolts to complete the handlebar adjustment process. Stay tuned!

Step 4: Adjusting The Handlebar Height

Adjusting the handlebar height on a Trek bike is a simple process that can improve your riding comfort. By following the steps outlined above, you can raise the handlebars using spacers or flipping the stem for a more ergonomic position.

Now that you’ve learned about the different methods of raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s time to dive into the fourth step: adjusting the handlebar height. This step involves two techniques that you can use to achieve the desired height: raising the handlebars using spacers and flipping the stem for increased height.

Raising The Handlebars Using Spacers

If you’re looking for a simple and cost-effective way to raise the handlebars on your Trek bike, using spacers is a great option. Handlebar spacers are small, cylindrical pieces that can be inserted between the stem and the headset to increase the height.

To raise the handlebars using spacers, follow these steps:

• Loosen the stem bolts using an Allen wrench.
• Gently lift the stem and handlebars upward to create some space.
• Place the desired number of spacers on top of the headset.
• Align the stem with the spacers and tighten the bolts to secure everything in place.
• Ensure that the stem is properly aligned and the handlebars are level before tightening the bolts completely.

By adding or removing spacers, you can fine-tune the height of your handlebars to achieve the most comfortable riding position. Experiment with different spacer combinations until you find the height that suits you best.

Flipping The Stem For Increased Height

If you’ve already reached the maximum height using spacers or want to explore other options, flipping the stem can provide further elevation for your handlebars. This technique involves removing the stem, turning it upside down, and reinstalling it onto the bike.

To flip the stem for increased height, follow these steps:

• Remove the stem from the headset by pulling it upward.
• Turn the stem upside down, so the angle between the stem and the handlebars is reversed.
• Reinsert the stem into the headset and align it with the desired height.
• Tighten the bolts to secure the stem in place.

Flipping the stem not only raises the handlebars but also alters your riding position by changing the reach and the angle of the handlebars. Make sure to test your new setup and adjust the stem angle as needed to achieve a comfortable riding position.

With these two techniques, you now have the knowledge to adjust the handlebar height on your Trek bike to best suit your riding style and comfort preferences. Remember to take your time and make small adjustments until you find the perfect handlebar height for an enjoyable and pain-free ride.

Step 5: Ensuring Proper Tightening

To ensure proper tightening of the handlebars on a Trek bike, follow these steps carefully and avoid any overused phrases. Keep sentences brief, choose different expressions, and make your content SEO-friendly and easy to understand.

Tightening The Stem Bolts Securely

Testing the stability of the handlebars, step 6: checking for comfort and fit.

To raise the handlebars on a Trek bike, follow these steps. First, loosen the stem cap and remove any spacer above the stem. Then, adjust the stem to your desired height and tighten the bolts. Finally, reassemble the stem cap and test for comfort and fit.

Making Adjustments For A Comfortable Riding Position

Once you have raised the handlebars to your desired height, the next step is to make further adjustments for a comfortable riding position. It’s important to ensure that your bike fits you properly to prevent any discomfort or strain while riding.

One way to achieve a comfortable riding position is by adjusting the stem. The stem is the component that connects the handlebars to the steering tube of your bike. By adjusting the stem, you can fine-tune the reach and height of the handlebars.

If you still feel that the handlebars are too low, you can try installing a stem riser. A stem riser is an extension that raises the height of the stem, allowing you to achieve a more upright riding position. Alternatively, you can also consider getting a stem with a larger angle or a shorter stem altogether, which can also help in raising the handlebars and bringing them closer to you.

Testing The Handlebar Height Before Finalizing

Before finalizing the handlebar height, it’s crucial to test and ensure that it feels comfortable and provides a good fit for your body. Here are a few things you can do to check the handlebar height:

• Take your bike for a short test ride around your neighborhood. Pay attention to how your body feels in relation to the handlebars. Are you able to maintain a relaxed and comfortable grip? Does the height allow you to maintain an upright posture without strain on your back or neck?
• Experiment with different handlebar positions. You can try adjusting the angle of the handlebars slightly up or down to find the most comfortable position for you. Remember, small adjustments can make a big difference in your riding experience.
• Consider your riding style and preferences. If you prefer a more aggressive riding position, you may opt for a lower handlebar height. On the other hand, if you prioritize comfort and a more relaxed riding stance, a higher handlebar height may be more suitable.

Remember, finding the perfect handlebar height is a personal preference, and what works for one rider may not work for another. It’s important to listen to your body and make adjustments accordingly. Once you have tested the handlebar height and ensured a comfortable fit, you can enjoy a more enjoyable and ergonomic biking experience.

Step 7: Additional Considerations For Trek Bikes

For those looking to raise the handlebars on their Trek bike, there are several additional considerations to keep in mind. This includes options such as using a stem riser, adjusting the stem height, or even considering a new stem with a steeper rise.

Don’t let discomfort affect your cycling experience, explore these possibilities to find the perfect fit.

When it comes to raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s important to consider the specific model you have. Different Trek bikes may have different handlebar options and limitations. In this step, we will explore handlebar options for specific Trek models and discuss the limitations and compatibility that you should be aware of. By understanding these considerations, you can ensure that your handlebar adjustment is both safe and suitable for your bike.

Exploring Handlebar Options For Specific Trek Models

Each Trek bike model may have its own unique handlebar options. It’s important to choose a handlebar that suits your riding style and preferences. Here are some popular handlebar options for specific Trek models:

Understanding The Limitations And Compatibility

When raising the handlebars on your Trek bike, it’s important to be aware of the limitations and the compatibility of different components. Here are a few key considerations:

• Compatibility with stem: Ensure that the new handlebars are compatible with the stem of your Trek bike.
• Handlebar clamp diameter: Check the clamp diameter of your stem to ensure it matches the diameter of the handlebars you want to install.
• Cable routing: Consider the cable routing on your Trek bike and how it may be affected by the new handlebars. Ensure that the cables have enough length and can be properly routed.
• Brake and gear compatibility: Check if the new handlebars are compatible with your current brake and gear systems. Make sure the levers and shifters can be properly installed and function effectively.

Understanding the limitations and compatibility factors is crucial to ensure a successful handlebar adjustment on your Trek bike. By taking these considerations into account, you can avoid any compatibility issues and ensure that your handlebar modification is both safe and effective.

Credit: www.trekchicago.com

Frequently Asked Questions Of How To Raise The Handlebars On A Trek Bike

Can you raise the handlebars on a trek bike.

Yes, you can raise the handlebars on a Trek bike by either using a stem riser or getting a stem with a larger angle or a shorter length. This will make your riding position less stretched and more comfortable. Additionally, you can also replace your flat handlebars with a riser model to increase the height.

What Is The Problem With The Handlebars On A Trek Bike?

The problem with the handlebars on a Trek bike is that the carbon base bar and handlebar/stem can crack if overloaded, posing a safety risk. Trek has issued a recall for these products to ensure customer safety. It is important to have the handlebars inspected and replaced if necessary.

Can You Raise The Height Of Bike Handlebars?

Yes, you can raise the height of bike handlebars by moving the stem or flipping it. If that doesn’t provide enough height, you can consider using a stem riser, a stem with a higher rise, or a shorter stem altogether.

Another option is to replace flat bars with riser bars for additional height.

To raise the handlebars on your Trek bike, follow the simple steps outlined in this guide. By adjusting the stem or adding stem raisers, you can achieve a more comfortable riding position. Remember to consult your bike’s owner’s manual for specific instructions and safety guidelines.

With the right tools and knowledge, you can customize your bike to fit your needs and enjoy a more enjoyable cycling experience. Don’t forget to prioritize your safety while making any adjustments. Happy riding!

About the author

I’m Shahed Parvej, the proud owner and founder of this platform. As a passionate Bike Enthusiast, I’ve embarked on a journey to share my knowledge, experiences, and insights with fellow enthusiasts, newcomers, and everyone intrigued by the world of biking.

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How To Raise The Handlebars On A Trek Bike

Trek is a well-known bike brand known for how well they work. One thing that makes Trek bikes so easy to ride is that the handlebar height can be changed. This lets riders find the one that fits their needs the best.

Many riders like Trek bikes because they are well-made and work well. You need to set the handlebars to the right height for the best ease, control, and posture while riding.

You want to know how to raise the handlebars on a trek bike? This article will show you to raise the handlebars on a Trek bike so that you can ride it more comfortably.

How To Determine The Appropriate Handlebar Height For A Trek Bike

Finding the right handlebar height for your Trek bike is important if you want to ride easily and healthily. Here are some steps that will help you figure out the right height for the handlebars:

Style and Preference : Consider your riding style and preferences when choosing handlebar height. Choose a lower handlebar height if you prefer a more active and aerodynamic ride. A higher handlebar height may be better for a more relaxed and upright position.

Body Mechanics and Flexibility : Consider your body’s flexibility when adjusting your handlebar height to avoid discomfort in your back, neck, and shoulders. Consider your arm height based on your flexibility, core strength, and any injuries or limitations you have.

Bike Fit Assessment : Give your bike a thorough fit exam. This can be done by talking to a skilled bike fitter or using online calculators or guides for a bike fit. These tools usually suggest an initial handlebar height based on your height, inseam length, torso length, and arm length.

Initial Adjustment : Based on the assessment or suggestions, start with a handlebar height that is on the low side. It’s always best to start with a little higher handlebars and then make changes as needed. This lets you fine-tune the setting based on how comfortable you are and how you like to ride.

Test Rides and Adjustments : Take a few test rides on your Trek bike with the handlebars at the starting height. Pay attention to any pain or strain in your body, especially in your neck, shoulders, and lower back. If you feel uncomfortable or like you can’t keep control of the bike, this could mean that the handlebars need to be changed.

Changes Made Gradually : Adjust the handlebars in small increments by moving them up or down about 5mm at a time. Test ride the bike after each adjustment to see how it affects your comfort and riding experience. Make small adjustments until you find the right height that gives you optimal ease, stability, and control.

How To Adjust Trek Bicycle Bars

Raising the handlebars is an easy job. Just read the steps to do the job like a professional:

Step 1: Gather The Required Tools

Before starting the handlebar adjustment process, make sure you have the following tools:

Allen wrench set : Depending on your bike’s specifications, different sizes may be needed.

Adjustable wrench : This may be necessary to loosen or tighten certain components.

Step 2: Evaluate The Existing Setup

Take a moment to analyze your current handlebar position. Identify the style of the handlebar stem on your Trek bike, as it will determine the specific steps required for adjustment. The two most common stem styles are quill stems and threadless stems.

Quill stems : These stems have a long vertical tube that slides into the bike’s fork steerer tube. They are secured in place with a single bolt at the top. To raise the handlebars on a quill stem, you will need to adjust the stem’s height.

Threadless stems : These stems consist of a horizontal steerer tube and a stem that clamps onto it. The stem height can be adjusted by adding or removing spacers and by repositioning the stem itself.

Step 3: Raising Handlebars On Quill Stems

If your Trek bike has a quill stem, follow these steps:

Loosen the bolt : Locate the bolt at the top of the stem. Use an appropriately sized Allen wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen the bolt. Turn it counterclockwise until it is loose enough to allow the stem to move.

Adjust the stem height : Gently lift the stem upwards to the desired height. Take note of the maximum height indicator line on the stem. Ensure that the stem remains aligned with the front wheel.

Tighten the bolt : Once you have set the desired height, tighten the bolt by turning it clockwise. Make sure it is securely tightened to prevent any movement or slippage during rides.

Test the adjustment : Give the handlebars a firm shake and apply moderate pressure to ensure they are properly secured. Make any additional adjustments if necessary.

Step 4: Raising Handlebars On Threadless Stems

If your Trek bike has a threadless stem, the process involves adjusting the stem’s position and possibly adding or removing spacers:

Evaluate spacer arrangement : Inspect the spacers positioned above and below the stem. If there are no spacers above the stem, proceed to step 2. If there are spacers above the stem, you will need to reposition them below it.

Loosen stem bolts : Locate the bolts on the side of the stem where it clamps onto the steerer tube. Loosen these bolts by turning them counterclockwise using an appropriately sized Allen wrench.

Adjust the stem height : Gently lift the stem to the desired height. If you need to add or remove spacers, slide them below the stem or lift them off the steerer tube, respectively.

Align the stem : Ensure that the stem is aligned with the front wheel. Verify that the gap between the stem and the top tube is equal on both sides.

Tighten the stem bolts : Once the stem is at the desired height and properly aligned, tighten the stem bolts by turning them clockwise. Start with a snug fit, and then gradually increase the tightness of each bolt in a crisscross pattern until they are securely tightened.

Test the adjustment : Similar to the quill stem adjustment, test the handlebars by shaking them and applying pressure. Confirm that everything is secure and there is no movement or slippage.

Properly adjusting the handlebars on your Trek bike is crucial for maintaining a comfortable and efficient riding position. By following the step-by-step instructions outlined in this essay, you can confidently raise the handlebars on both quill and threadless stems.

Remember to pay attention to safety, ensure all components are tightened correctly, and test the adjustments before embarking on your next cycling adventure. Enjoy your ride with elevated handlebars, providing you with a more enjoyable and ergonomic cycling experience.

Mike Anderson

Hello Dudes, Mike Anderson here! I am a freaky traveler who goes anywhere, on any kind of track or path with my bicycle. In that way Mehedi and Laura found me. And, I love to talk about the different types of cycling issues (almost about all Bikes) in my blog post.

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Complete guide to electronic gears: your bike's shifting, indexing and charging explained

With electronic gears now more affordable than ever and trickling down to third and fourth tier groupsets in the big brands' ranges, even more riders have been won over by electronic in recent years... but what's the advantage over mechanical gears, and how do they work? In this guide, we'll cover all you need to know to get the best out of your electronic groupset, or help you decide if it's time to make the switch if you're still unsure. 

The surge in popularity of electronic gears is largely a result of their adoption in the pro peloton. Currently, all 18 men's teams in the  WorldTour peloton use electronic groupsets, and it's been that way for almost a decade. 

Amongst these teams, 14 are riding Shimano Di2 groupsets, while the remaining four opt for SRAM Red eTap AXS . Another big groupset brand - and arguably the biggest in the 20th century - is Campagnolo, but the Italian company is not represented in the top tier of the pro peloton at the time of writing. 

How does electronic shifting work?

To understand electronic shifting better, let's start by exploring how it works and its advantages over traditional mechanical systems. 

Electronic groupsets eliminate the need for steel gear cables that cause the front and rear derailleurs to move. Instead, they rely on a small motor located in the rear derailleur that responds to electrical signals transmitted by the shifters. The signals then dictate which sprocket the chain moves to. 

In contrast, when using a mechanical groupset, gear changes rely on good old cable tension to move the front and rear mechs, shifting the chain to the desired sprocket. 

What are the pros of electronic shifting?

Electronic gear shifting offers numerous advantages over mechanical shifting, with many riders preferring the very easy and almost silent gear changes they provide. We go into more details in our feature on why you should get electronic shifting , but here's a brief summary of the major positives: 

Improved shifting

Arguably, electronic systems offer improved shifting, as electronic gears tend to be more precise and consistent. On a modern electronic groupset, the shifts will be fast, crisp and require very little effort to change up or down your cassette, or move up and down chainrings, if you have more than one on your bike. With no cables to pull on, you just need to tap on electronic shifters to tell the brains of your groupset what to do. 

Less maintenance

Because electronic groupsets aren't affected by cables wearing out, it's unlikely you'll ever need to replace the cables on a wired electronic groupset. If you run a completely wireless system like SRAM AXS, you'll never need to, because there aren't any cables! This means that in terms of shifting, there's very little routine maintenance other than battery charging and firmware updates to stay on top of. 

Electronic groupsets can be easier to install than mechanical groupsets, especially if your bike has internal routing, and once set up, electronic gears require little tuning. 

Customisation and more shift positions

With all the major electronic groupsets now controllable via an app, you can pick and choose where you want to shift from, and even the speed of the shifts with Shimano Di2 and SRAM eTap. You can customise the setup to your own preferences with a few taps of your smartphone. 

Shimano and SRAM both offer the option to install 'satellite shifters', so you can add extra shift options on other areas of your front end. If you want the option to shift from the tops of your bars, or pretty much any part of the drops, these groupsets will allow you to do that if you purchase the extra shifters. 

What are the cons of electronic shifting?

Mechanical shifting has been working fine for many, many years, and there are still plenty of riders out there who are happy to stick with what they know.

One of the most frequent objections to going electronic is the possibility of running out of charge mid-ride; although, that’s unlikely to happen unless you pretty much never pay attention to how much charge you have left. You’ll likely get hundreds and potentially over 1,000 miles between charges (depending on how often you shift) on every current electronic shift system from the big three groupset brands (Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo), and there will be plenty of warning that you’re low on juice.

Perhaps the main pitfall here is that because you'll need to charge so infrequently, it's easier to forget. There are a number of ways to check on all major groupsets: for example, you can press the rear derailleur on Shimano's Di2 system, and it will flash solid green if it's nearly full, blink green at 50%, and go red at 25% or less. You can also check via Shimano's E-Tube app, or link up your GPS bike computer so the charge level shows up on your screen.

SRAM allows you to check the battery status of each component on its AXS app, and you can also check your Campagnolo EPS charge level via an app or by looking at the LEDs on each component (all of this is covered in more detail further down the page). 

Despite electronic technology slowly trickling down into lower-tier groupsets, electronic shifting still tends to be more expensive than mechanical counterparts, and it's more expensive to replace parts. Additionally, there is a slight weight penalty associated with electronic components. 

Both of these situations are improving, and as more groupsets become electronic, we could see the price gap narrow even further or even draw level in the next few years. Despite the additional research and development required, electronic groupsets aren't necessarily more expensive to manufacture. 

Mechanicals

While generally there are fewer things that could go wrong with your electronic groupset... what if something does? You can never run out of charge on a mechanical groupset, and if certain gears go awry you can usually make something work to get you home.

If your electronic gears stop working for whatever reason, your only option is to pick a sprocket, put your chain on it and plot a route home with very little elevation. With all this said, it's rare that an electronic groupset will fail, and certainly not enough of a worry to choose mechanical shifting over electronic. 

If you're unlucky enough to snap a chain, or crash and break something, it'll be no more or less catastrophic with an electronic groupset compared to mechanical. Take comfort from that as you walk home or wait for a lift!  

This is purely subjective of course, but you might hear some cyclists saying they just prefer the feeling of mechanical gears, or the more definitive lever throw. A prominent example of a pro rider who remained unconvinced was Fabian Cancellara, who stuck with Shimano Dura-Ace mechanical when most of his teammates had switched to Di2 as late as 2016. As covered in our Bike at Bedtime feature on his Paris-Roubaix winning bike from that year, it's thought that Cancellara preferred the lever feel of mechanical, and there was less chance of accidentally shifting in the wrong direction when riding over cobbles at high speed. 

If you're not planning to ride over the Paris-Roubaix cobbles at 50km/h any time soon, then Spartacus' objections probably won't apply to you. Electronic gears are highly responsive, and you might find yourself accidentally pressing the wrong button for the first couple of rides, but it doesn't take long to get used to. 

Who are the major electronic groupset manufacturers? 

We've already mentioned this numerous times, but for those at the back: the three most recognised manufacturers of electronic groupsets for road bikes are Shimano , SRAM and Campagnolo . While the first commercially successful system was Shimano's Di2, which debuted in 2009, it was actually the French manufacturer Mavic that got there first way back in 1992 with its Zap system. Neither Zap nor its successor Mektronic caught on, but they undoubtedly paved the way and provided inspiration for the first wave of electronic groupsets in the 2000s. 

There's also FSA's K-Force WE groupset - which has seen limited commercial success at the time of writing - and recently some other new manufacturers based in Asia, such as Ltwoo , have been cropping up with the promise of more affordable electronic groupsets . road.cc is yet to review one of these cheaper groupset options in full, but our early impressions are positive. It could well be that the dominance of the 'big three' is challenged going forward, especially if the cheaper groupsets ever make it onto off-the-peg bikes at major bike retailers in the US and Europe. 

Since Shimano launched Dura-Ace 7900 Di2  - with Di2 standing for Digital Integrated Intelligence - numerous electronic groupset options catering to various price points have emerged. SRAM is the 'newcomer' among the three major brands, but has quickly established itself with an extensive range and a big slice of the market. 

While Shimano and SRAM offer electronic groupsets for both road and off-road, Campagnolo offers its electronic groupset for road bikes only. However, at the time of writing there are rumours of Campagnolo developing an electronic version of Ekar , the brand's gravel groupset. 

 Electronic groupset hierarchies 

While electronic groupsets initially seem expensive, the technology has become available at more accessible price points, with various levels within each brand, from the most expensive pro-level to more affordable standard options. 

Although parts for older generations of electronic groupset are still available, all of the current road groupsets from these three major manufacturers are 12-speed only, with the exception being Shimano's 11-speed GRX Di2 gravel groupset (we expect this will be updated soon). The options available are as follows:

Top-of-the-range:

• Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 R9200
• SRAM Red eTap AXS 
• Campagnolo Super Record Wireless 

Performance level:

• Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8100 
• SRAM Force AXS

Standard level:

• Shimano 105 Di2 R7100
• SRAM Rival eTap AXS  

Entry-level 

• SRAM Apex XPLR AXS
• Shimano GRX Di2

What are the differences between Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo electronic groupsets?

Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo electronic groupsets differ in several ways, including their design and technology used. 

Shifting technology

One of the main differences between the three groupsets is whether they are wired or wireless, which dictates how the electronic signal is sent from the shifters to the derailleur. 

SRAM and Campagnolo now offer fully wireless setups, resulting in a clean aesthetic. Shifting is actuated by switches on the brake levers, which send a signal to the derailleurs to do their thing.

> Shimano 105 Di2 vs SRAM Rival eTap - Which is better?

Shimano, on the other hand, previously employed a wired system. However, the Japanese brand has transitioned to a semi-wireless system with their most recent 12-speed Dura-Ace and Ultegra groupsets, and 105 Di2 groupset, the latter of which is only available as a disc brake option. 

Shimano’s semi-wireless shifting means that the front and rear derailleurs are connected by wires to an internal battery, which is generally located in the seatpost, but the shifters have their own coin cell batteries and communicate wirelessly with the rest of the system.

The shifters themselves have previously differed greatly between the three manufacturers, particularly Campagnolo which employed a unique thumb shifter on its groupsets. However, on the latest Super Record Wireless groupset, the Italian brand has done away with its iconic thumb shifters. 

Both Shimano and Campagnolo systems work similarly out of the factory, and the shifting buttons are positioned behind the brake levers - the right lever takes care of shifting up and down the cassette, and the left lever shifts the front derailleur to change between big and small chainrings with two buttons on each lever. 

SRAM, on the other hand, has one button on each lever which can control both the front and rear derailleurs. For example, the right lever shifts to a harder gear and the left lever shifts to an easier gear, and you push them both at the same time to shift between chainrings. It’s a really simple system to use, even if you’re wearing big gloves or mittens in cold weather.

These are the standard configurations for the Shimano, Campagnolo and SRAM groupsets, but you can also customise them to your liking (more on that later). 

Battery locations

SRAM and Campagnolo groupsets both feature removable batteries on the front and rear derailleurs. The main difference is that SRAM allows you to swap batteries between the front and rear derailleurs if one runs out first, whereas Campagnolo's batteries are not interchangeable between the two. 

Shimano's Di2 groupsets only have one battery connected by wires to the front and rear derailleur, and it isn't removed from your bike for charging. All three brands – Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo – also use replaceable coin cell batteries inside the shifters. It's CR2032 for SRAM and Campag, and CR1632 for Shimano.

How to customise your electronic shifting 

For Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo electronic groupsets you can change which shifter performs which function. 

Using Shimano's E-Tube app, you can change to  Synchronized Shift  (a function that automatically selects the most efficient gear on the front derailleur in synchronisation with rear derailleur gear shifting) or Semi-Synchro shifting (which automatically moves one, two or three gears at the rear to accompany a front shift), and alter the Multi-Shift settings (which control the number of gears you shift at a time), shifting speed and STI shift button mapping. Third-party cycle computers can also be set up to display Di2 information.

> Your complete guide to Campagnolo road bike groupsets

SRAM's electronic groupsets are customisable via a smartphone app that communicates with the system, whether that's switching the way the shifting works so a right-hand tap yields lower rather than higher gears, or getting the system to take care of shifting the front mech for you so you only have to tap one button at a time. 

For Campagnolo's Super Record Wireless groupset, using the  MyCampy 3.0 app will enable you to associate the shifters with either the front or rear derailleur. 

You can also customise the location of your shifter buttons using satellite shifters, which provides multiple shift position options, making it slightly easier to change gear in certain situations, especially when racing. 

Shimano offers its Climbing Switch that you can fit to the top section of your handlebar and it also has a Sprint Shifter that you can fit to the drops. Similarly, SRAM uses Wireless Blips allowing you to add shift points anywhere on the handlebar, and you can use up to three sets per bike. 

Campagnolo's electronic system is yet to allow for satellite shifting. 

How to charge electronic gears 

As these are electronic groupsets, you are going to need to charge them somehow. The charging process varies between Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo's electronic groupsets. 

In Shimano's case, the central battery is housed within the frame, allowing for on-the-bike recharging. While previous generations required a charging lead plugged into the junction box, in the most recent generations of Dura-Ace, Ultegra and 105 Di2, the charging port is located on the rear derailleur. 

For SRAM's electronic groupsets, the two batteries must be charged off the bike using a specific charging cradle. 

In contrast, both batteries from Campagnolo's Super Record Wireless system feature magnetic charging points that you can use for charging the batteries either on or off the bike with a cable.

How do you know when the battery is low?

Some people are put off by electronic gears due to concerns about running out of battery, potentially leaving them stranded miles away from home. However, electronic groupsets typically provide ample warning before the battery is dead, and various systems work to preserve battery life when it's running low, so you're unlikely to have no gears at all.

In 12-speed Shimano Di2 groupsets where the charging port is located on the rear derailleur, you can check the main Di2 battery level by pressing the button on the rear mech for half a second. The LEDs will then display a specific colour corresponding to the battery level. You can also check battery levels using Shimano's E-Tube app. 

With the earlier generations featuring a junction box, you press and hold any of your shifting buttons for at least half a second. Once again, the LEDs will indicate how much charge is left. 

When the battery level drops below 10%, the front derailleur functionality is disabled in Shimano Di2 systems. This means you can only shift the rear derailleur until the battery goes completely flat. 

With SRAM electronic groupsets, every time you shift, a light will flash both on the shifter and the derailleur representing battery status as good, low or critically low and the SRAM app also monitors battery levels. 

If you're travelling long distances with your bike, a top tip for preserving battery life with SRAM systems is to remove the batteries because as soon as your bike moves, the AXS system wakes up and subsequently, drains the battery. 

Similarly to SRAM electronic groupsets, Campagnolo's Super Record Wireless features an LED light located inside the right-hand hood, where the thumb shifter would have previously been. It indicates the battery status and you can check the battery level further using the MyCampy 3.0 app. 

How long do the batteries last?

As noted earlier, electronic groupsets feature rechargeable main batteries along with coin cell batteries in the shifters, that will eventually need to be replaced. 

In the case of Shimano Di2 groupsets, there is a single main power source which is said to be capable of providing approximately 1,000 kilometres on a single charge. 

On the other hand, SRAM eTap AXS groupsets have two main batteries, located in the front and rear derailleur, offering about 60 riding hours on a full charge, according to SRAM. Lastly, Campagnolo's Super Record Wireless groupset claims to last over 750 kilometres. 

You will need to replace the batteries in electronic gear shifters when they run out, but fortunately they won't need replacing often. All three manufacturers indicate approximately two years of battery life for the shifters, based on an estimated 15 riding hours per week as stated by SRAM. 

However, Shimano's 105 Di2 shifters have an extended battery life of around four years, as they feature two batteries per shifter. 

While these listed battery life stats provide a baseline, several factors influence the actual lifespan of your battery. The more often you change gear and the longer your rides, the more your battery depletion will be accelerated. Extreme temperatures, both hot or cold, can also drain battery juice. Additionally, like all rechargeable batteries, they undergo degradation after a limited number of charge-discharge cycles.

How to adjust your electronic gears

Electronic groupsets can be easier to install compared to mechanical groupsets; but how can you fine-tune your electronic gears to ensure optimal shifting performance and no unwanted clicking noises?

Shimano Di2 groupsets can be micro-adjusted on the bike or using Shimano's E-Tube app. First, you need to get the chain line as straight as possible, so shift the rear derailleur to the fifth gear from the largest sprocket. 

On the most recent generations of Shimano Di2, a button is located on the rear derailleur, which you press and hold for 2-5 seconds to enter adjustment mode. The LED light will then change to yellow.

Now, you can press the shifters while turning the cranks until you are happy with the position of the rear derailleur and you have eliminated any unwanted clicking noises. To exit adjustment mode, press and hold the rear derailleur button for about 0.5 seconds.

SRAM AXS drivetrains can be adjusted using MicroAdjust to help fine-tune your gears. It can be performed with the chain in any cog and applies to all cogs.

It can be done by either clicking your shifters or through the SRAM AXS app and each MicroAdjust will move the rear derailleur 0.25mm. An LED light will show on the rear derailleur to confirm the MicroAdjust. 

To fine-tune the rear derailleur on Campagnolo's Super Record Wireless groupset you press the rear derailleur mode button for seven seconds so that the LED light is flashing pink. You can then adjust the rear derailleur with the shifters.

Once the rear derailleur is positioned correctly, short press the mode button so that the LED now flashes blue.  

The initial set-up and adjustment of electronic systems is very easy, and there's very little routine maintenance.

Gear changing tends to be more precise and consistent than mechanical groupsets, as no cables are being actuated when you perform the shift. You'll also probably never need to replace a gear cable, and little, if any, tuning is required after initial setup. 

What are your thoughts on electronic groupsets? Will your next bike have one? Let us know in the comments section below.

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Emily is our track and road racing specialist, having represented Great Britain at the World and European Track Championships. With a National Title up her sleeve, Emily has just completed her Master’s in Sports Psychology at Loughborough University where she raced for Elite Development Team, Loughborough Lightning.

Emily is our go-to for all things training and when not riding or racing bikes, you can find her online shopping or booking flights…the rest of the office is now considering painting their nails to see if that’s the secret to going fast…

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Strange that you chose not to include SRAM in the gravel groupset list.

It makes it seem that SRAM groupsets are not suitable for gravel, whereas a quick glance at the available gravel bikes would indicate that SRAM AXS and SRAM AXS XPLR are the groupset of choice for electronic shifting on gravel bikes.

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