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9 Best Places to Visit in Croatia, According to Locals

Here's how to see the best of Croatia, from under-the-radar islands to stunning forests and hilltop towns.

The coast of Croatia gets all the love — and though I was born and raised in the country, even I set my gaze on the Adriatic Sea whenever I visit. You can't deny the beauty of hotspots like Dubrovnik and Split, but busy locales like these can also mean crowds, stressed-out service, and little sense of discovery, especially during the peak summer season.

Thankfully, Croatia has more than 1,200 islands you can escape to, as well as coastal towns that remain off the radar, plus a majestic interior that spans idyllic pastoral landscapes and mighty mountains where wildlife roams in nature. There's a lot to see and do — and love — beyond the go-to tourist destinations as well. Here's my list of some of the best places to visit in Croatia.

Jadranko Markoc / Getty Images

For the longest time, Croatia's capital was mostly skipped in favor of more popular destinations down south. That started changing a few years ago, when visitors got wind of the numerous delights this pocket-size metropolis has to offer, including its buzzing art scene and the colorful Christmas market that helped put this city on the wintertime map. Advent festivities, typically held throughout December and into early January, feature alfresco merriment, live music, and street food all around Zagreb's city center, including its ancient Upper Town.

For the plushest place to stay, pick the grand Esplanade Zagreb Hotel , which blends Art Deco flair with the latest modern-day comforts, and serves iconic and traditional štrukli (cottage cheese dumplings) at its restaurant, Le Bistro .

Gorski Kotar

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While the country's coast may be one of the best places to visit in Croatia for local residents and visitors alike, general interest in the great outdoors has spiked in recent years. Enter Gorski Kotar, Croatia's answer to Switzerland, a forested expanse of mountain wilderness that lies southwest of Zagreb, en route to the coast of Kvarner.

This verdant region has become the "it" destination lately, especially for city dwellers looking for an easy-to-reach pocket of pristine nature. Wolves, bears, and the endangered Eurasian lynx can be spotted roaming through Risnjak National Park . Gorski Kotar also offers a number of chic cabins and lodges to rent, such as the spectacular Casa Nube and the adorable Gorska Bajka . Don't miss the chance to indulge in a meal of wild edibles and game meats at the Vagabundina Koliba (Vagabond's Cabin) mountain hut, where the nettle bread is a real treat.

Wilfried Krecichwost / Getty Images

A string of sweet little seaside towns may line Istria, the heart-shaped peninsula in Croatia's northern Adriatic, but Rovinj steals the show for its storybook beauty. The area is so stunning it tends to get regularly jam-packed with visitors between June and September, so the locals will generally try to avoid it that time of year.

It's best to head to Rovinj outside of that busy season, ideally in October or from April to May. Book a stay at the ultra-sleek Grand Park Hotel Rovinj , one of Croatia's most luxurious properties. An architectural stunner with a cascading structure that slopes down to the sea in a twine of fragrant garden terraces, the hotel showcases impressive views of Rovinj's Old Town , with its cobbled piazzas and steep lanes leading up to St. Euphemia Church , a baroque beauty with a copper statue-topped campanile.

At the hotel's fabulous Albaro Wellness & Spa , try the Batana Bodywork treatment, which involves using a stimulating combination of hemp balm, a traditional Rovinj boat's batana oar, and intense rowing motions to massage your sore spots. A meal at the property's Cap Aureo Signature Restaurant is a sensory adventure, as is a walk around the protected forest park of Punta Corrente (Golden Cape), located nearby. And don't leave without checking out the hotel's secret art room.

Inland Istria

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While first-time visitors to Istria , easily one of the best places to visit in Croatia, make a beeline for the coast, those in the know swear by the peninsula's green interior. And as soon as you hit those curvy country roads — winding their way through the woods, vineyards and olive groves — you'll see why. It's easy to swoon over the area's bucolic charm, home to medieval towns strewn across the hilltops, and shady forests where prized truffles hide.

Luxury villa rentals tucked away in the Istria countryside are increasingly becoming popular hideaways. Take Stanzia Vinella , a renovated and formerly abandoned hamlet turned rustic-chic retreat, with Wabi-Sabi–inspired interiors and an infinity pool that overlooks the postcard-perfect town of Motovun on the hill just across the way. For a meal of Istrian mainstays, book ahead at Toklarija , an age-old olive-mill-turned-tavern on the hilltop overlooking the village of Sovinjsko Polje.

ultraforma / Getty Images

Few visitors to Croatia pay heed to the coastal city of Šibenik in central Dalmatia; it usually tends to get overshadowed by Split, located just an hour to the south, and, of course, Dubrovnik. What visitors are missing is a true seaside gem, one of a handful of cities in the world with two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: St. James Cathedral , a domed basilica built entirely of stone between 1431 and 1535, and the Venetian-era St. Nicholas Fortress , situated on an islet across from the old town.

Šibenik is also home to a number of charming heritage hotels, including boutique Armerun , which opened in summer 2021 along the seafront just steps from the cathedral, and Pelegrini , a seasonal restaurant graced with a Michelin star, where owner and chef Rudi Štefan conjures up some of Croatia's most innovative cuisine. Don't miss a visit to St. Michael's Fortress and Barone Fortress , each known for their alfresco concerts and dazzling panoramas.

Close to Šibenik, the island of Zlarin is best known for its exquisite handmade red coral jewelry. It was also the first island in Croatia to eliminate single-use plastics back in 2019; in the summer of 2021, it was joined by the nearby island of Krapanj as part of a special "Archipelago Without Plastic" campaign.

Locals head here for its beautiful beaches, which may have pebbles in place of sand but offer clear, warm waters perfect for swimming, floating, and snorkeling. Other popular waterfront activities include sea kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding, while landlubbers can enjoy hiking, biking, and rock climbing. The island is car-free, giving you the perfect excuse to explore it by bike or on foot. Accommodations are few and far between, with just one hotel and a limited amount of apartments available for rent, so during more crowded times of the year (like summer), it might be worth staying nearby in Šibenik and visiting Zlarin as part of a day trip instead.

_jure / Getty Images

Located just off the coast of Zadar, the island of Silba is a car-free, hotel-free paradise that tends to be frequented by those in the know. You'll note a distinct Boho, offbeat vibe, where the creatives of Croatia prefer to hide away in summertime. It’s also a stellar choice for families, as little ones can run around barefoot and carefree.

Be sure to book your accommodations way ahead of time, as rooms can fill up quickly here. And don't miss the chance to enjoy a sunset dinner of freshly caught seafood at Konoba Alavija . Spend your days sunbathing or playing volleyball, basketball, or tennis at the island's busiest beach, Sotorišce, known for its clear, shallow waters. Under the water, the archaeological ruins of an ancient sarcophagus , estimated to be more than 1,500 years old, can be seen just off the shore of Pocukmarak Bay.

Anton Petrus / Getty Images

Hvar island may already be on everyone's list of the best places to visit in Croatia, but that spotlight mostly shines on Hvar town, which is known for its funky beach party scene. More artsy and low-key, Stari Grad, located along the island's northern side, has been coming into its own lately as an alternative Hvar base — and for all the right reasons.

For starters, Stari Grad has two World Heritage sites: The Stari Grad Plain , with its striking farm landscape that has been cultivated since ancient Greek times, and an old town that dates back to 384 B.C.E. On top of that, Maslinica Bay, just steps from the ferry dock, is home to the chic Maslina Resort , featuring Asian-Mediterranean fusion flair and design and a spa with "garden to skin" treatments that showcase herbs from the resort's organic garden.

Westend61 / Getty Images

Taking a trip to Pag is comparable to taking a trip to the moon. The island is well known for its barren, lunar-like landscapes, as well as for the epic parties that take over the beaches of Zrće come summertime. But beyond the raucous revelry, the island is home to one of Croatia's loveliest family-run hotels, Boškinac , which sports an award-winning winery and a Michelin-starred restaurant within a beautifully renovated stone building surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, just inland from the coastal town of Novalja.

Pag is also known for its fragrant, hard, and strong sheep's milk cheeses. Gligora Dairy , which keeps racking up awards internationally, offers tastings of this local delicacy. While on Pag, check out the Pag Triangle — a mysterious land formation near Novalja that's rumored to be the site of a UFO landing — and the walkway through the ancient olive groves of Lun , where most of the trees are as many as 1,500 years old.

Best Places to Visit in Croatia

By Caitlin Morton

Krka National Park

This national park encompasses nearly 27,000 acres along the Krka River in central Dalmatia, easily reached from the town of Split. It is known for its blue-green pools, winding walkways, and gushing waterfalls —the waterfalls are so popular, in fact, that the park has started to limit the number of visitors .

Zagreb has everything you could want in a capital city: pedestrian-friendly streets , museums, and galleries, outdoor cafes, and an ancient fortified center that rivals Budapest and Vienna. Don't miss the open-air Dolac Market, colorful St Mark's Church, or the Museum of Broken Relationships (yes, it's just as quirky as it sounds).

Mljet National Park

Mljet National Park covers the entire western section of Mljet Island (a nice day trip from Dubrovnik). Highlights include two gorgeous saltwater lakes, pine tree forests, and the small, picturesque villages of Pomena and Polače.

One of the country’s most popular islands for sunbathers and oenophiles, Hvar is renowned for its sunny beaches, lavender fields , and lush vineyards. It also features a beautiful city center, complete with Gothic palaces and marble stone streets. Bonus: It's also Croatia's sunniest spot .

Harrison Pierce

María Casbas

CNT Editors

Plitvice Lakes National Park

This UNESCO World Heritage site is easily one of the most popular attractions in Croatia—with its turquoise lakes, limestone canyons, and hundreds of waterfalls, it's little wonder why. Just be sure to stay on the paths .

The star of this seafront city is its wealth of Roman architecture, namely the Pula Arena. Constructed between 27 BC and 68 AD, the amphitheater is remarkably intact and is still used as a venue for concerts and festivals. Even non-history buffs will enjoy the city's seaside cafes, Lighting Giants art installation, and Aquarium Pula.

Whether you know it as King's Landing or simply one of the world's most beautiful cities , there's no denying the appeal of Dubrovnik. Don't miss the city’s white limestone streets, the lovely old town of Stari Grad, or scenic Mount Srd (take the cable car to the top for some epic views). Looking for some exercise? We suggest getting on top of the surrounding walls to take in the city—they stretch completely around the Old Town, and you can walk their entire 1.2-mile length.

Located on the northern Dalmatian Coast, Zadar is a quirky addition to any Croatia itinerary. Aside from its historic old town and string of beaches, the city boasts two particularly unique attractions: Sea Organ , a structure that plays music using the movement of the waves; and The Greeting to the Sun , an installation that collects the sun’s energy during the day, then plays a trippy light show from sunrise to sunset .

Come to this seaside fishing town for the food—specifically for Monte , the first restaurant in Croatia to nab a Michelin star. Stay for the offshore islands, cobblestoned streets, and Mediterranean charm.

Zlatni Rat, Brač

Of all the beaches in Croatia , Zlatni Rat stands out for its unusual shape (which changes depending on the current) and material (it's actually made up of smooth, tiny pebbles). The so-called "Golden Cape" is a popular spot for windsurfing, jet-skiing, and stand-up paddle boarding.

Croatia's second-largest city is a fascinating mix of ancient and modern. Walk through the sprawling 4th-century Diocletian's Palace (pictured), where trendy clubs and boutiques alternate with ancient churches; or stroll along the Riva seafront promenade, which is dotted with cafes and souvenir shops .

The island of Korčula is known for its dense forests, olive groves, local white wine, and stunning old town with fortified walls and Gothic cathedrals (it's called "Little Dubrovnik" for a reason). Unlike Dubrovnik, however, its remote location keeps the vibe mellow and the crowds to a minimum, and the town has been named one of the most romantic in Europe .

Kornati Islands

With more than 140 uninhabited islands, the Kornatis are the densest and largest archipelago in the Mediterranean. The Kornati National Park boasts some of the cleanest waters in the country, making it an ideal spot for diving, snorkeling , sailing, and swimming. No permanent settlements exist here, but there are seasonal fisherman's cottages that you can rent for a true, deserted island vacation.

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Croatia Itinerary: Ultimate 7-Day Travel Guide

Enjoy 7 days in Croatia: one of the greatest vacation destinations in Europe, offering the best of the continent’s beaches, cities, islands, and natural parks. A road trip is a perfect way to explore the country as you weave between UNESCO valleys, Game of Thrones film sets , ancient fortress cities, waterfall villages, and turquoise shores — always being treated to warm Croatian hospitality and delicious food. Get ready for this unforgettable 7-day Croatia Itinerary!

Ultimate Croatia Itinerary (7 Days)

With so much to see and do in beautiful Croatia, you could easily stay for weeks, especially if you want to make the most of the beautiful beaches, islands, and national parks. That being said, seven days is still a good amount of time to see some of the country’s highlights. Follow this 7-day itinerary for Croatia to see a good mix of historical sights, natural spots, and must-see cities.

Also see our: 10-day Croatia Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Dubrovnik

Start your memorable journey in the medieval city of Dubrovnik on Croatia’s southern coastline. Set your alarm early so you can explore the famous ancient walls surrounding the city, taking yourself on a historical self-guided tour before the big tour groups arrive. The early alarm is worth it for the fantastic views of the picturesque town and the turquoise waters of the Adriatic sea — a great beginning to your 7 days in Croatia!

Read: Best things to do in Dubrovnik, Croatia

Next up, head to the beautiful Onofrio Fountain, the hidden Franciscan monastery, the elegant clock tower, and Rector’s palace. Take a rest after your morning of sightseeing, watch the world go by, and enjoy a delicious lunch on one of the lovely outdoor terraces.

At dusk, head to West Harbor for a stunning sunset and spectacular views before enjoying a drink at any of the many lovely beach bars. Beach Bar Dodo was our favorite!

Tip: Get the Dubrovnik Pass , which includes entrance to all the top sights.

Where to Stay in Dubrovnik

There is plenty of choice for accommodation in Dubrovnik, Croatia. If you are after a more authentic experience, stay inside the city walls close to all the main sights. We stayed at this hotel in the old town .

Hotels in Dubrovnik 😴

Please note that the accommodation in this part of town is generally smaller, more expensive, and not accessible by car. If you’re traveling by car, we recommend staying on the outskirts of town, where you’ll find more parking options. 

Day 2: Travel to Split via Klis Fortress or Nugal Beach

On the way to Split, stop at the incredible Klis Fortress or Nugal Beach. The Fortress, set in the mountains, was once an ancient defensive point with stunning panoramic views over the countryside, Split, and the Adriatic Sea. These days, it’s better known as one of the settings for Game of Thrones in Croatia ! 

Nearby is the stunning family-owned estate Stella Croatica, home to beautiful gardens, an olive oil museum, and a traditional tavern. 

Stella Croatica is included in the price of the Klis Fortress ticket. Open 10 AM – 3:30 PM every day except Monday. Book your ticket for Stella Croatica and Klis Fortress .

Nugal Beach

For an off-the-beaten-track experience in your 7 days in Croatia , you might prefer to stop off at the secluded Nugal Beach, which is about an hour from Split. Cool down in the clear turquoise water and marvel at the high cliffs and lush green forests that shadow the shores.  This is the exact location . To get to this beach, you must walk for about 30 minutes, as the beach is only accessible on foot.

Tip: Bring water shoes as most beaches in Croatia are pebble stones instead of sand and to protect from sea urchins.

How to get to Split from Dubrovnik

The total journey time from Dubrovnik to Split is about 3 hours if you choose to drive. You can rent a car or take the bus. 

We recommend to rent a car in Croatia through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here .

Tip: If you arrive in Split in the early evening, we recommend spending the rest of the night strolling around the car-free old town. Explore the ancient streets and courtyards, and enjoy the social atmosphere on the waterfront promenade by having drinks on one of the outdoor terraces.

Here are all your hotel options in Split.

Day 3: Split (Stunning city on your 7-day Croatia itinerary)

On day 3 of your Croatia itinerary (7 days), discover fascinating Split: the second-largest city in Croatia! Start your day by immersing yourself in buzzing Split local life at the traditional Pazar Farmer’s Market. Here, you’ll be able to watch locals shopping and negotiating and have the opportunity to try some local delicacies.

Read about all Things to do in Split, Croatia .

Once your belly is full, move on to the Diocletian’s Palace and Cellars. This incredible historical building sits at the heart of Split and was the setting for many famous Game of Thrones scenes. 

Visit the Diocletian’s Cellars on a Game of Thrones tour

Tip: Unusually, for such a large city, Split is just a stone’s throw away from a beautiful natural forest park. This means you can hike from the city itself directly into the luscious greenery of Marjan Hill, where you’ll find spectacular views of the city and sea. If you love a sunrise, this is the place! 

Where to Stay in Split

For first-time visitors, we recommend you stay in the Old Town around the Diocletian’s Palace. This beautiful area is home to some of the most fantastic buildings in the city. Plus, is close to all the best things to do in Split ! 

Hotels in Split 😴

Day 4: Krka or Plitvice Day Trip

After city hopping through Croatia, spend day 4 of your 7 days in Croatia immersed in one of these idyllic natural paradises! 

Krka National Park

Just a 1.5-hour drive from Split is the peaceful Krka National Park famed for its beautiful waterfalls, including the popular Skradinski Buk. Visit on a day trip to discover the fantastic hiking trails and peaceful surrounding nature. There’s even an island to explore just off the shores of the roaring waterfalls and rivers. 

Read all about Krka National Park and its Waterfalls .

Tip: To explore Krka National Park, park your car in one of the main parking areas. From here, you can use the shuttle bus to take you to the start of the trails. Alternatively, for more ease, join a guided tour. These usually include a boat trip to the island or one of the nearby towns.

Book your day tour to Krka National Park from Split

Plitvice Lakes National Park (Best of your 7-day Croatia itinerary)

An alternative (and our personal favorite!) is the oldest and largest national park in Croatia: Plitvice Lakes. Although it’s a little further away from Split, it’s well worth it to discover the 16 turquoise blue lakes — fringed by green forest and plummeting waterfalls. You have the opportunity to see nature up close as you walk along the many boardwalks and hiking trails of this stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site .

Note: You are not allowed to swim at Plitvice Lakes (or Krka National Park) in order to protect nature. Read more about being a sustainable traveler . 

Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia (Complete Travel Guide)

How to get to Krka and Plitvice

To get to the national parks on your 7-day Croatia itinerary, we recommend renting a car. It’s a 1.5-hour drive to Krka National Park or a 2.5-hour drive to Plitvice (from Split). You can also reach the parks by bus, but it will take much longer.  

If you choose to visit on a guided tour, you will return to Split at the end of the day. However, if you want to absorb the wonderful atmosphere of the parks in the evening, spend the night and drive back in the morning. 

Hotels in Krka 😴

Hotels in Plitvice 😴

Tip: We recommend you buy entrance tickets for both national parks online beforehand (boat ride included).

• Check availability for Krka National Park tickets .
• Order Plitvice tickets online via the park’s e-ticket system .

Day 5: Travel to Hvar

Discover spectacular Hvar, one of the highlights of any Croatia 7-day itinerary! This sprawling island offers everything you could want for a vacation: an upmarket town with excellent nightlife and restaurants, paradise islands just off the shore, and UNESCO -protected nature.

Take the day gently exploring the town of Hvar, meandering through the gardens and up to the Spanish Fortress for beautiful panoramic views, and stopping for coffee or gelato nearby. In the evening, discover the famous Hvar nightlife, with many great bars and clubs. The atmosphere of this luxurious town is infectious, so it’s a must-see on your 7 days in Croatia.

Read: Best things to do in Hvar, Croatia

How to get to Hvar from Split

There are plenty of ferries from Split Port to Hvar old town, with tickets costing 25-50 EUR for an hour’s trip (depending on the season). It’s best to book your tickets online before as it can get busy, especially in the summer. 

Book your ferry tickets from Split to Hvar

Tip: If you are driving, there is a car ferry to Stari Grad, which takes 2 hours.

Where to Stay in Hvar

We’d recommend staying in Hvar Town, with its lively atmosphere and range of accommodation and restaurant options. All the boat tours start from Hvar Town, and the passenger ferries arrive here, too. Please note that the car ferry arrives on the other side of the island.

Hotels in Hvar Town 😴

The downside to staying in Hvar Town is that it’s quite expensive in the high season and also busy in the evening when everyone gets dressed up to visit restaurants and bars.

Alternatively, base yourself in the quieter Stari Grad, the second biggest town on the island, and another great jumping-off point to explore the rest of the island.

Hotels in Stari Grad 😴

Day 6: Explore Hvar Island

There is a lot to see on the island, so spend day 6 of your Croatia itinerary exploring all its secret corners. We think it’s best to have your own car or motorbike to explore all the hidden gems. However, there are buses between the main towns if you are unable to drive. 

We recommend an epic Hvar Island loop, starting in Malo Grablje and stopping in Milna, Plaža Dubovica, Stari Grad, Stari Grad Plains, Vrboska, Beach Vitarnja, Jelsa, and Brusje. This loop covers all the highlights, including the lavender fields (June is the best month to see them), gorgeous swimming spots, and charming towns. There’s even a ghost town to explore!

Alternatively, explore Stari Grad Plain on this popular cycling tour from Hvar

Day 7: Travel Home via Trogir

It’s time to say farewell to this fantastic country, and there’s no better way to end your trip than with a final stop at beautiful Trogir ! The town is only a 15-minute drive to Split Airport, making visiting before you head home very convenient. 

Read more: Best Things to do in Trogir, Croatia .

Connected to the mainland and Ciovo Island by bridges, discover one of the prettiest towns in Croatia, home to charming streets, squares, and a waterfront promenade — which can all be explored in just an hour or two.

Tip: Trogir is located close to the airport, so it’s a great alternative to staying in Split, particularly if you’re looking for something quieter. In fact, this UNESCO town is car-free, making it even more tranquil! 

Hotels in Trogir 😴

How to Visit Croatia in 7 Days

Getting to croatia.

Your 7-day itinerary in Croatia starts in Dubrovnik and ends in Split, which both have international airports. You can rent a car from one airport and drop it off at the other. However, this is a more expensive option than dropping it at the same airport you collected from.

By Train: Many trains arrive in Croatia from other European cities, including overnight options. 

By Boat: Ferries depart from several ports in Italy (including Venice ) and travel to Dubrovnik and Split, among other Croatian destinations. 

Getting Around Croatia

Getting around Croatia is easy, with many great public transport options. Although the train network is limited, there are plenty of interconnected buses (and ferries) between the main towns/destinations. There are many more connections during the summer months, so bear this in mind if you are traveling outside of the high season. 

Book your transport tickets in advance online

However, for the ultimate freedom, we recommend renting a car to complete your 7-day Croatia itinerary. Please note that the roads are good in Croatia. However, traffic can be an issue around some towns in the summer, and car access is limited in many older parts of the cities.

Our Favorite Accommodations for a 7-day Croatia itinerary

Depending on your budget, there are many options for accommodation in Croatia, from exclusive hotels and seaside apartments to lively hostels or even camping. Below are our favorites:

• Dubrovnik: Villa Filaus , Guest House 44 , Liberty Rooms
• Krka National Park: Hotel Bonaca , Studio Apartment Skradin , Illyria Skradin
• Plitvice Lakes: Pansion Danica , Etno Garden , Villa Sumrak
• Hvar: Apartments and Rooms Bonkan Hvar , Apartments Haracic , Novak Guesthouse
• Stari Grad: Heritage Villa , Town House Rosario , Apartments Vukovic
• Split: Makarun Heritage Rooms , Apartment Marija , Villa Galla
• Trogir: Narancin , Villa Apartments Art , Trogir Apartments & Rooms

How Much Does 7 Days in Croatia Cost?

Once known as a budget-friendly destination, Croatia has got more expensive with its popularity in recent years. However, there are always ways to cut costs on your trip, such as buying local food from the markets or staying in self-catering accommodation. Additionally, your costs will be lower if you stay in smaller cities and towns and travel outside of the peak months. 

Costs of Traveling in Croatia

Travel on a budget in Croatia, from $580 − $730 USD weekly per person, mid-range $1390 − $2740 USD, and high-end from $2660 − $4160 USD. However, costs depend on factors like accommodation, transportation, and activities. We did not include flights. Check flight prices here

• Hotels: $70 − $300 USD Check available hotels
• Hostels: $25 − $40 USD Check available hostels
• Transport: $15 − $60 USD Book public transport
• Car Rental: $30 − $150 USD Book a rental car
• Food: $30 − $75 USD
• Activities: $10 − $60 USD See tickets & tours
• Sim: $1 − $3 USD Get an eSIM or SIM here
• Travel Insurance: $2 − $6 USD Get Travel Insurance

Tip: The water in Croatia is excellent quality from the taps, so bring your reusable water bottle with you to save on single-use plastic and travel plastic free !

Best Time to Visit Croatia

The months of May and June and September and October are generally the best times to visit this beautiful country. The tour operators and hotels are open, the weather is cooler, and the crowds are manageable in popular cities. 

If you are visiting Croatia for the National Parks, then our advice is to visit in the Spring. During this time, the lakes and waterfalls are at their fullest, and there are fewer visitors. If it is the party scene you are after, you might prefer to travel in July when the nightlife in destinations like Hvar, Brac, Dubrovnik, and Split is at its best.

Is it Safe in Croatia?

The crime rate in Croatia is low, and walking around during the day or night feels safe. However, if you are traveling solo, it’s always a good idea at night to stick to populated areas where you won’t be alone. Despite being a safe country, it is essential to always keep your valuables secure and exercise caution in busy areas where pickpockets may operate.

Read more about travel safety

Packing Sustainable Items 

• Refillable water bottle so you can travel plastic-free .
• Insect Repellent, which is non-toxic and doesn’t harm nature.
• Sunscreen without toxic ingredients ( reef-safe sunscreen is the best), so it doesn’t harm the environment or you!
• Reusable bag for shopping for local items.

By purchasing through our links, you support us at no additional cost. Thank you for your support. ♥️

• Find Hotels via Booking.com
• Find a Rental Car via Sunny Cars
• Find Flights to Croatia via Skyscanner
• Get a Travel Insurance via Heymondo
• Book Tours & Attractions via GetYourGuide
• Book a Bus/Train/Transfer via 12Go

10 Best Things To Do in Pula, Croatia

13 best things to do in dubrovnik, croatia, visiting the medieval truffle town of motovun, croatia.

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Croatia: A Completely Honest Travel Guide

Home » Blog » Europe » Croatia » Croatia: A Completely Honest Travel Guide

Whether you are backpacking through or are wanting to splurge on Yacht Week, this Croatia travel guide has everything you need to help you plan your next adventure throughout this beautiful country in the Balkans.

With piercing turquoise seas and fairytale-like architecture, there is no denying Croatia is breathtakingly beautiful.

Spanning most of the Adriatic Sea, you’re never too far away from the coast when traveling in Croatia. And even if it’s not pretty beaches you seek, stone castles and magnificent waterfalls await travelers of all kinds.

Whether you are backpacking through Croatia or are wanting to splurge on Yacht Week, this Croatia travel guide will help you plan your next adventure to the Land of a Thousand Islands .

What we really thought about Croatia

We do our best to give our honest opinions about all the destinations we travel to and the products we recommend through Two Wandering Soles. That is why we are going to be honest about our thoughts on traveling in Croatia.

So brace yourself because ours is an unpopular opinion. What we’re about to say may come as a surprise, but it has to be said: We didn’t love Croatia.

That doesn’t mean we didn’t like Croatia. We just didn’t fall in love like we so often do with places we visit.

There’s no denying Croatia’s beauty. The aquamarine waters and craggy beaches are what dreams are made of. And Plitvice Lakes National Park is out-of-this-world gorgeous!

But frankly, it takes more than beautiful landscapes to make us fall in love. Just like with people: a pretty face is nice, but we crave more. 

The thing is, we made some big mistakes when traveling to Croatia. So make sure to read until the end of this article so you don’t make the same mistakes. If you follow our advice we think you will enjoy your time in Croatia much more than we did.

Croatia Travel Guide

• Important info

Best time to visit Croatia

Top places to visit in croatia, top things to do in croatia.

• Typical costs

Transportation in Croatia

• Practical tips for visiting
• Mistakes to avoid in Croatia
• Our advice for visiting Croatia
• How to book your trip
• What to pack 

Important info about Croatia

Croatia at a glance: Croatia is a popular travel destination due to its breathtaking beauty, historic seaside villages and stunning national parks. 

• Location: The Balkans region of Eastern Europe on the Adriatic Sea ( view on Google Maps )
• Capital city: Zagreb
• Language: Croatian 
• Currency: Euro (EUR / €)*
• Plugs/outlet types: Plug types C and F / 230 V and 50Hz

*A note about the currency: As of January 1, 2023, Croatia joined the Eurozone and adopted the Euro as their currency. Kuna (kn or HRK), the former currency of Croatia, will no longer be accepted as a form of payment. However, Kuna banknotes and coins can be exchanged until December 31, 2023. 

Visa Requirements

As of January 1, 2023, Croatia joined the Eurozone and officially became part of the Schengen Area for passport control and visa purposes. If you are a citizen of a Schengen Area country, you can enter Croatia easily without the need for a visa. 

If you are a U.S. citizen, you can enter the Schengen Area countries with a visa on arrival (just a stamp in your passport) and stay for up to 90 days in a rolling 180 period. (Meaning you cannot exceed 90 days in the previous 180 days.) If you are from a non-Schengen country, and not a U.S. citizen, you may need a visa to enter Croatia. However, this is dependent on your nationality and purpose of visiting.  We suggest double-checking with your home state department for updates on visa requirements. 

Language and helpful phrases

The official language of Croatia is Croatian (shocking!), but most people in the tourism industry will speak at least a bit of English. 

With that being said, it is always nice to learn a few local phrases to show you’ve done your homework and respect the local culture. 

• Hello = Bok
• Please = Molim
• Thank you = Hvala 
• Beer = Pivo
• Bathroom = Kupaonica 
• How much? = Koliko Kosta? 

Tipping in Croatia

While it isn’t necessarily expected to tip in Croatia, it is fairly common to round your bill up to the nearest whole number after a meal. You might consider adding a bit extra if you were especially pleased with your service.

For cafes, bars or drivers, you can simply round up your bill.

Since Croatia is a popular tourist destination, you can assume getting tips is becoming more and more common for service-industry workers and tour guides. Offering a few extra Euro is a great way to show someone they did an excellent job.

In short, you’ll have the most favorable weather and avoid peak season crowds during the late spring and early fall. 

Although Croatia’s busiest season is during the summer, the sheer number of crowds and scorching heat are no joke. So while it is the most popular time to visit, those factors may heed you to reconsider.

However, each season and month has its own draws and drawbacks, so there’s really no correct answer as it depends on what you’re doing and where you’re going.

Psst! You’ll find our guide to the best time to visit Croatia helpful to get the full breakdown on what makes each season distinct and unique to help cater to your trip.

Croatia boasts of beauty and unique places to visit. Choosing where to go is the hardest part! 

• Dubrovnik : For those who have a love for history (or happen to be a Game of Thrones super-fan), definitely plan a visit to this Croatian walled city to see its medieval architecture. 
• Split : This central coastal city has it all from gorgeous beaches to historic landmarks and a fantastic nightlife scene. Due to its central location, it is a great ‘home-base’ when traveling to many of the islands. 
• Plitvice Lakes National Park : Nature enthusiasts flock to the stunning waterfalls, lush forests and array of wildlife in this national park. This is an absolutely perfect place for anyone looking to get swept away in the beauty of nature. 
• Zagreb: As the capital of Croatia, you can expect this city to always be bustling with activity. Whether you’re visiting a museum, a cute boutique or trying out a new dish at a local restaurant, you will not run out of things to do.
• Croatian Islands: Home to over 1,000 islands, Croatia is a beach-lovers paradise. Hvar, Brac, Vis and Korcula are some of the most popular island destinations. Connected by a network of ferries, it’s easy to hop around.
• Istria Peninsula: Roman ruins and delicious cuisine make up this part of Croatia that shares a lot of similarities to neighboring Italy. 

Want more info? We have an entire article with a round up of the best places to visit in Croatia , including the top things to do and where to stay in each place. 

Croatia truly offers a variety of activities for every type of traveler. We’ve pooled together a few of the highlights (though there are many, many more!) in this Croatia travel guide. To find out more, check out our round up of absolute best things to do in Croatia .

• Visit Plitvice Lakes National Park. With its network of waterfalls, stunning canyons and array of wildlife, you’ll adore Plitvice Lakes. This is one of the oldest national parks in the country and part of the World Heritage Foundation. 
• Go truffle hunting. Croatia happens to be the best (and one of the only!) place to find truffles in the world. If you are visiting during the months of April – November, Karlic Tartufi , a local family business of 3 generations, offers a truffle hunting experience that we highly recommend. 
• Walk Dubrovnik’s Old Town walls. Throw on your walking shoes and weave through these ancient city walls to explore the stunning Medieval architecture.
• Explore Krka National Park . Throughout Krka National Park, there are dozens of waterfalls, picnic spots and numerous winding nature trails waiting to amaze you. 
• Discover Diocletian’s Palace. Experience a (mega) slice of ancient history by visiting a real-life palace built for the Roman emperor, Diocletian, over 1,500 years ago. If you’re in Split, you really cannot miss this. 
• Go sailing. One of the best ways to explore Croatia’s gorgeous coastline is from the water. As a popular sailing spot, there are numerous companies that offer sailing tours, lessons or charters.  

Budgeting for Croatia

Compared to its neighbors, Croatia is a pretty expensive place to visit. There are areas to cut costs so it doesn’t have to break the bank, but it’s definitely pricier than we expected.

You can expect to see the highest prices in popular places like Dubrovnik and Split. Many prices countrywide may double or even triple during summer. 

Typical daily budget for Croatia

• Budget traveler: If you are on a tight budget and watch your spending closely, €45 – €55 could be a sufficient budget. 
• Mid-range traveler: If you want to have a few splurges and stay in nicer accommodation, plan to budget €100 – €150 per person, per day in Croatia.
• Luxury traveler: You can easily spend as much as you want traveling around Croatia without any budget concerns. However, if you hope to have a luxury vacation, you should expect a minimum daily budget of €210+. 

Typical costs for Croatia

Prices in Croatia fluctuate depending on the area you’re traveling and the season, with summer being the most expensive time to travel. 

Accommodation

• Dorm bed: €10 – €20 
• Private room: €20 – €30 
• Mid-range hotel: €50 – €80 
• Luxury hotel: €150+ 
• Street food: €5 – €10
• Mid-range restaurant meal: €10 – €25
• Local beer: €3 – €5
• Coffee: €2 – €4
• Taxis: €2 – €4
• Local bus: €1 – €3 
• Cross-country bus: €13 – €24
• Ferry: €5 – €13 (small ferries) and €30 –  €40 (large ferries)
• Plitvice Lakes entrance: €10 – €40 (depending on the season)
• Dubrovnik City Walls:  €35 
• Truffle hunting tour:  €35 – €200
• Krka National Park entrance: €20 – €40 

There are a few convenient ways to get around Croatia, but if you stay near the city center, you’ll find that most cities are convenient and walkable. 

For longer distances, buses and ferries are quite popular. Or, if you really crave freedom, you may opt to rent your own vehicle.

Renting a car in Croatia is shockingly affordable (around €13 – €26 per day) and allows you the freedom to explore the natural wonders of Croatia without having to adhere to a schedule or timetable. 

Overall, the roads in Croatia are safe and easy to navigate making this an ideal spot for a road trip. However, because some of the roads can be twisty and locals tend to drive with a lead foot, be sure you’re a comfortable driver. For the best deals on car rentals and to compare prices, we recommend using Discover Cars . 

You’ll easily be able to snag an Uber in popular areas like Zagreb, Dubrovnik and Split which can be a convenient way to get around. Ubers might not be available on the islands, but taxis are around.  Whenever traveling with Uber, always be mindful of your journey home. Sometimes Ubers are happy to take you to a remote location, but finding a ride back can be tricky. 

Traveling by ferry within Croatia is really convenient, affordable and makes island hopping a dream. There are two major ferry ports in Dubrovnik and Split and it takes about 4.5 hours to travel between the two. This will cost you around €30 –  €40. There are also smaller ferries that almost work like a public bus system connecting the smaller islands to the mainland. Prices for these ferries can range from €5 – €13. 

In recent years, Croatia has committed to improving their roadways, which has resulted in a fantastic public transport system. Although buses are usually a cheaper option, they aren’t always the quickest option—except in Croatia. 

You’ll be pleasantly surprised that the public buses in Croatia are both quick and inexpensive. With AC, WIFI  and comfy seats, you’ll be riding in style—er—as stylish as a public bus can get. 

There are a few major routes connecting the big cities and smaller ones that run between villages and towns. Therefore, prices can range anywhere from €1 to €25.

Ues Bookaway to search routes and purchase bus tickets in Croatia. 

Enjoy the freedom of waking up to some of the most scenic landscapes in Croatia by renting a campervan . This is becoming an increasingly popular way to explore some of the most magical spots in Croatia—ones that might not be accessible by public transport or within the constraints of a tour’s timetable. 

We are big fans of campervan travel and highly recommend this mode of transportation if you love adventure and straying from the beaten path a bit. 

Practical tips for traveling in Croatia

Whether it’s your first time traveling in Croatia or you’re a regular, it’s always helpful to keep in mind some helpful tips that can come in handy when you’re traveling. 

• Download a local eSIM. We recommend using Airalo . 
• Use public transportation. Not only is it an easy way to reduce your carbon footprint, the public transportation in Croatia (Ubers, buses, ferries) is accessible and cheap. 
• Check visa rules. If you’re from a non-Schengen area, you’ll be granted 90 days to visit. However, you must keep in mind this accumulates for time spent in all other countries in the Schengen Area in a rolling 180-day period.  
• Book ahead. This is especially important if you’re traveling during peak travel season because things will book out months in advance.
• Drive carefully. If you’re renting a car or a campervan, be sure you’re a comfortable driver and map out your routes ahead of time to avoid any added stress. 

Don’t make these mistakes when traveling to Croatia

We’re not writing this to discourage anyone from visiting this Mediterranean beauty. We tend to shy away from sharing when we don’t like a place. But I think we’ve pinpointed what it was that turned us off to Croatia at the top.

We hope by sharing our disappointment, it may help others come with more realistic expectations and avoid the mistakes that we made while traveling in Croatia.

There are a few things that affected our feelings about Croatia, and we made some big mistakes when we traveled there. Once you understand the mistakes we made, you will enjoy Croatia so much more!

1. Our expectations were high

For one thing, we had super high expectations. Back in 2009, Ben and I studied abroad in Italy . That was the first time I remember hearing about Croatia. 

A friend of mine went there and raved about the beaches, the lack of other tourists compared to neighboring Italy. She said it was cheap, “off the beaten path”, and beautiful. I’ve been dreaming about visiting Croatia ever since. You can probably guess where I’m going with this…

Have you ever visited a place that was so hyped up that even though you had a good time, you left feeling underwhelmed? 

That’s how we felt about Croatia. We had allotted 2 and a half weeks to visit Croatia, but ended up leaving early – something we rarely do when traveling (in fact, it’s almost always the opposite!).

2. It was PEAK tourist season

When we visited Croatia in July, it was packed with tourists everywhere you looked. Places that were described online as “hidden gems” had lines around the block.

The famed Plitvice Lakes that grace your Instagram feed are magical, yes, but some of that magic is diminished when you have to walk the wooden boardwalks behind long lines of people carrying selfie sticks.

And in Dubrovnik, you couldn’t walk a few minutes in the Old City without seeing one of the many corny “Game of Thrones” tours (complete with a guide dressed in chainmail and holding an iPad that was playing a scene from the show). 

Historic buildings had been turned into overpriced pirate-themed candy shops. It felt a bit like Disney World. And not in a good way.

I think a few years ago, these crowds didn’t exist to the extent that we experienced. But with photos of Croatia being an Instagram staple (I’m guilty of posting these too !) and with the exploding popularity of Croatia as a filming location for Game of Thrones, people are flocking to this Mediterranean country in hordes. Especially during the summer months. 

3. We didn’t budget correctly

Prices were much higher than any of the neighboring countries we visited (and with all the tourists there, I totally understand why). 

This is more on us than anything else, but we just didn’t have the right budget expectations to fully appreciate Croatia. If we raised our budget, we probably would have been able to enjoy ourselves a little more.

4. The people weren’t as friendly as the neighbors

On top of everything else, we’d just come from Bosnia & Herzegovina where the people were incredibly friendly, funny and excited to talk with us. Many of the people we met in Croatia were lacking in this department.

This isn’t to say we didn’t meet friendly Croatians – just the opposite. We had a few lovely guesthouse owners that were very kind, but the overall vibe just wasn’t as friendly as many of the countries we visited during our round-the-world trip – especially the neighboring countries.

5. Our feelings are relative

Our travels were bookended with visits in two countries that seriously surprised us: Bosnia and Slovenia . And it just so happened that Croatia fell in between.

Think of it this way: You go to a dinner party and speak with 3 people. The first (Bosnia) and the last (Slovenia) are humble and surprisingly interesting. You laugh, you cry. You listen to their stories and they listen to yours.

That person you speak with in between is perfectly nice. A little cocky, maybe. They are beautiful, but they know they are. Everyone in the party wants to talk to them, so you kind of just feel like you scratch the surface of really getting to know who they are. 

And when it comes time to leave the party, you reflect on the two fantastic conversations you just had. The one in the middle kind of fades away. Maybe if you hadn’t spoken with the other two party-goers, you would have really appreciated that middle convo a bit more. 

For better or worse, our opinions of people or places are heavily impacted by where we’ve just come from or where we’re going (literally and metaphorically). We just weren’t in a place to fully and wholeheartedly appreciate what Croatia had to offer.

6. We may have gone to the wrong places

This is a lesson we learn over and over again. 

The most popular destinations almost always leave us a bit disappointed. I’m sure anyone who has ever gone to the Leaning Tower of Pisa can relate. Cool tower, but that’s about it for Pisa. 

Maybe it was our route: Dubrovnik – Korčula – Split – Plitvice Lakes – Zagreb. We started off with a city that we really didn’t enjoy, and that sour taste lasted in our mouths for the rest of the country. 

We probably should have done some more research and found more off-the-beaten-path areas, but we were traveling so fast that we just defaulted to the easiest route. 

Would we go back to Croatia?

Yes, without a doubt. We would return in a heartbeat. 

There are a few places we already have in mind that we’d like to visit the second time around. These include some that our Director of Content, Amanda, has visited and wrote about in some of our other Croatia guides. 

We won’t deny that Croatia is absolutely breathtaking. Dubrovnik is as touristy as it is beautiful and Plitvice Lakes are a natural treasure.

Our advice to others visiting Croatia

Avoid peak tourist season. Period. Go somewhere else.

Budget quite a bit more money than you would for the rest of Eastern Europe. We knew Croatia would be one of the more expensive countries on our trip. But we didn’t think we would be seeing the same prices as Western Europe. 

Don’t make the mistake we did. You’ll enjoy yourself more if your budget has some wiggle room.

Have realistic expectations about crowds. Unless you visit during a totally off-peak time, Plitvice Lakes will be crowded. Dubrovnik may feel a bit like Disney World. If you go in knowing that there will be long lines and selfie sticks, you won’t be as disappointed as we were.

I’m sure there will be a few people who read this and think we’re crazy because they had a fantastic time in Croatia. And I know we rave about places that others may not like. Travel is personal. 

We try not to highly publicize when we don’t like a place because we truly believe that there are so many factors that can affect how much you like a particular city or country. But we also believe in honesty, and think that it’s okay not to fall in love with every place we visit. 

Our intention is not to discourage anyone from visiting Croatia, but instead to help set expectations and give you advice so you avoid some of our mistakes. We would definitely go back to Croatia; and knowing what we know now, we would most likely enjoy it much more.

How to book your trip to Croatia

Planning a trip to Croatia, whether long or short, can seem overwhelming. But it doesn’t have to be! Take the stress out of planning by following these simple steps that’ll ensure you don’t forget anything. 

1. Decide where you want to go

Okay, this is definitely the hardest part of traveling, right? The looming feeling of trying to pack in every magical hike, every historical site, every restaurant … how!? We feel you, seriously. In our opinion, less is usually more. Choose a few of the best places to visit in Croatia and work backward from there. 

Once you’ve narrowed down the places you actually want to go, the rest becomes easy (and fun!). While we know this will differ based on your budget, time and interests, Croatia truly offers something for every type of traveler. 

2. Book your flights

As we all know, airfare is one of the priciest parts of traveling, so definitely check out our guide on how to find cheap flights before you book your trip to Croatia. Skyscanner is a great way to gauge prices and easily compare between airlines, days and flight times. We really love the ‘whole month’ feature, too, especially if you can be a little flexible with your dates. 

3. Book your accommodation

There are loads of options in terms of accommodation in Croatia suitable for a variety of budgets. Whether you’re looking to stay at a swanky beach-side villa, a quaint home-stay or a hostel, sites like Booking or Airbnb are your best bet in finding exactly what you’re looking for. 

4. Get travel insurance

Travel insurance is a key component when planning a trip and we NEVER leave home without travel insurance. Honestly, it’s never a fun thing to pay for, but it is definitely worth it if something goes wrong and can put your mind at ease while you explore a new place. 

For a trip like this, we’d recommend Safety Wing insurance .

For more information on how to pick a policy and what we look for in travel insurance, check out our detailed travel insurance comparison article .

5. Start packing!

Now that you’ve got all the boring logistical stuff out of the way … it’s time to get packing for your trip. Whether you’re rolling, folding or using packing cubes, we’ve got a quick guide on what you don’t want to forget on your trip to Croatia. 

What to pack for visiting Croatia

Croatia experiences a wide range of temperatures throughout the year, so be mindful of the time you travel when packing. Aside from clothes, here are some essential things you don’t want to leave at home. 

• Outlet adapter
• Back up credit cards 
• Comfortable walking shoes (your feet will thank you)
• Reusable straw & reusable bag (always!) 
• Reef safe sunscreen
• Swimwear (with over 3,000 miles of coastline, you’ll want to take a dip!)
• Light breathable clothing and plenty of layers 
• Camera and tripod ( this one is our favorite for travel)
• Insulated water bottle 
• Insect repellent (we prefer the natural stuff )

Are you planning a trip to Croatia?

We have lots of resources on travel in Croatia and destinations throughout the country. Check out our  Croatia Travel Homepage  for everything you need to know, or start by reading some of our favorite Croatia articles here:

• Fun Things to Do in Dubrovnik + Advice for Traveling
• Plitvice National Park Guide: Ultimate Guide
• Can’t-Miss Things to Do in Split, Croatia + Travel Guide
• Krka National Park Croatia: Ultimate Visitor’s Guide

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We want to hear from you!

Are you planning a trip to Croatia and still have questions? Let us know if anything in this Croatia travel guide surprised you, or what you’re most excited about in the comments below!

Comments (42) on “ Croatia: A Completely Honest Travel Guide ”

Thanks for your honest review.. Glad that I came across your blog. It must be difficult writing your honest opinion knowing it might face some backlash. (lol) I’m heading to Croatia next month and was thinking if I had planned too short for my trip. But your blog is reassuring.. I will be heading to Bosnia and Slovenia as well like you did.. hopefully I will have a good experience with all 3 at the dinner party 😉

Well why did you come during “peak months” and stayed at the most popular destinations, and also expect there will be no crowd and prices would be lower…??? This makes no sense.

Point of advice from a local Croatian living in Rijeka: stay in not-as-popular places and visit very popular places for a day, then go back to the not-as-popular place. Recommendations: Umag Motovun Labin old town Fuzine lake Ucka nature park Brijuni national park Cres Island (Lubenice beach) Island of Rab, with many beaches Risnjak National park City of Varazdin Last but not least, the City of RIJEKA!

hi and thank you for the great info on the blog. We are fellow Minnesotans traveling with small group next year. Any recommendations on where to fly in and out of in Croatia?

Thank you for all your advice and the honesty you share with us. It’s still a country I want to go to.

I want all the travel guides that you got,because I was thinking about travel throughout the globe sometime this year. So will you send me your travel guides to me,please.

I went in March, and it was sunny, warm enough to swim even, and none of the tourist hoards that swarm there in the high season.

I thought this blog post was hilarious. 20 percent of Croatia’s GDP comes from tourism so yeah there are going to be tourists there in July. Also Dubrovnik will probably be fine without the GoT fans… It’s great with honest reviews but they’re meaningless if the writer hasn’t bothered to find out basic facts about the country beforehand.

I think this article sealed the deal for me to not go. The only time I can go this year is in July and given the pandemic I’m not sure I want to be in crowds. The pandemic could translate into less tourists but I don’t think I want my first big overseas trip in 2 years to be a let down.

I truly hope you didn’t let this article dissuade you from visiting Croatia. I read this article before my trip and I was very disheartened but I found the exact opposite of this article to be true. We loved Croatia and it exceeded every expectation we had for it. We are almost 50 years old and our trip to Croatia was the best in our lives. My husband and I agree and we don’t always agree on everything. Honestly I think the people who wrote this article really just did everything wrong when visiting Croatia.

Hi Katie & Ben,

Thx so much for your comprehensive review! I found your blog while looking around for some ideas on doing a coastal Croatian trip for our 40th anniversary. I especially appreciated your 3 different budget types of lodging…so helpful. We’ve been to Croatia many times before, Dubrovnik, Split, etc. etc. but this time I wanted to do strictly coastal and end up exactly where you went – the northern region almost to Italy – the Istrian Peninsula. I heard it’s less crowded and you did confirm that. Now, about the people lol. My husband was born here so he’s a local, well sort of. I never speak English while we’re there and let him speak his native tongue and we get along just fine. We get that they just don’t have the best attitude in the world, but as some others have said, they probably hate all of the tourism. Thanks again for all the info…you really helped me out a lot!

Croatia is a small country full of negative, arrogant, and lazy people. I know because I lived there. Many people think that Croatians are hospitable and good people but the truth is most of that is fake and you have no idea what they are saying behind your back – if you don’t understand the language. Croates look down upon tourists, they feel that everyone is inferior to them and this stems frim a deep seeded jealousy they have for the rest of the world- especially those countries with normal economies where people travel. So they will have no problem to cheat you. They will smile to you but curse and make fun of you behind your back. I know because I understand the language but often spoke English when there. Yes, the nature is stunning but people are miserable. Keep that in mind.

Hi Alex, thanks for sharing your opinion. However, in our experience, we had lovely interactions with Croatians. As with any society, there will be people who are not as nice, but from our travels, we have nothing but good things to say about the people of Croatia.

I could not agree more with your review of Croatia. As a Croatian, living in Canada over 20 years now, I stopped visiting the country as often as I used to. You summed up pretty much everything I have been thinking for years now and although preparation and expectations go a long way, some destinations need less of those in order for one to enjoy the destination. I will preface my comment by saying that I have been vacationing in Croatia for pretty much every two years and there have been some major changes that will prevent me from going back soon. The main one are the prices. I get expensive, since I live in Toronto, one of the most expensive cities in North America. The problem is the value. For example, we rented a yacht last summer and visited tons of little islands. The prices were exorbitant and before anyone says that is normal for island pricing, I have been to plenty of other places, where this wasn’t the case. In Lisbon or Barcelona, you can get a cup of fresh fruit for 1 or 2 Euros (berries and cherries), while Croatia would sell the same type of fruit cup (cheaper selection like watermelon and honeydew and grapes mix) for 5 or 6 euros. Rudeness was at an all time high in places of official business, the public transit and connection between cities is abysmal and overpriced, plus finding information in places that are frequented by tourists can be a challenge and I do not even want to get into what happens when you travel to smaller places. Most restaurants serve the same fare or a slight variation of it. We ate in some fine dining places and also in some regular joints, and overall the experience has been underwhelming. Way too expensive for what it is and also the quality of food declined drastically over the years. I am assuming lot of places have a high turnover and might not care about the returning customers, and yet lot of dishes were particularly bland and just too expensive. Renting anything, you will pay through an arm and a nose. Bike fees are obscenely expensive, as are cab fares. Due to the high increase in tourist numbers, it seems that every Joe is trying to capitalize on the opportunity and rents rooms and apartments. Again, price – value ratio is disappointing. Some of the accommodation prices we had to laugh at, since they thought they were renting at the Four Seasons, but instead you were getting the most recent Ikea dress-up. Public smoking seems to be ubiquitous, and it is really hard to avoid smoke everywhere you go. On one of the ferries we took, the crew was smoking on the dock, despite prohibition signs and then tossed the cigarette butts into the sea. Pollution and garbage everywhere, including the sea, made me question how clean some of the beaches are. I am comparing it to previous years and some garbage piles have net been cleaned in years.

Having said all of that, I can share few tips from travelling abroad over the years.

• Avoid places like Split or Dubrovnik in high season
• Smaller Dalmatian islands like Vis or Hvar are great, and less crowded. Stay away from the main ports and pick other parts of the island for a more relaxing stay
• Rent a car if you can
• Rely on several sources for official information. It is very common to give incorrect info and this can vary from one representative to another.
• Eat where locals eat. This usually means moderately priced places and places that are rarely located by the marina
• Bring reusable water bottle. The amount of plastic wasted is sad, and never buy bottled water in Croatia. Croatia ranks as one of the highest countries when it comes to water drinking quality.
• Money exchange rates are similar in the tourist spots and post offices have one of the best exchange rates, even better than banks.
• Lot of bus stations don’t have anyone announcing anything, so it is very common to ask the driver if the bus is the right bus, since sometimes the labels on the buses can be incorrect.
• Bakeries are very often the best option for a fast and cheap meal on the go.
• Lot of places don’t accept debit or credit cards, so always have cash on you.

This turned out to be a longer post than I originally anticipated. In conclusion, Croatia is an amazing place to visit, the nature is truly breathtakingly beautiful, but please be wary that it is not cheap or undiscovered. This was maybe true 20 years ago, but not anymore.

Croatian expat here. I have to go every summer for holidays in Croatia to spend some time with the family and I’m even more annoyed about the prices, the crowds and rude locals. But I also know where to go and how to avoid it. The biggest mistake travellers like you make is thinking Croatia is eastern Europe or "balkans". It’s not. It’s always been (well besides the dark era or communist occupation) a Central European and Mediterranean society. So you should compare it as such. Rapid increase of tourists drives certain behaviours everywhere. But then again towns like Dubrovnik, Hvar and others are unique. their historical, cultural value plus the beauty justifies the price you need to pay to see them. Tourists shouldn’t expect some 3rd world shithole where their 100 bucks or euros will make them Kings. I don’t want our country to be overrun by cheap backpackers and cruisers . It spoils it for everyone.

Croatia is not the Balkans?? That’s a story Croates maybe tell themselves because they hate the fact, but Croatia is as Balkan as it gets.

The reason why people in Croatia, or more specifically Split and Dubrovnik, are not as friendly as the "neighbours" lies in the fact that locals are just absolutely inundated and fed up with mass tourism and the type of tourists their cities get. The old town of Split has in the past years lost hundreds of its inhabitants cos people have lost access to basic necessities in the centre and are abused night and day by groups of drunken tourists pissing at their doorsteps, vomiting under their windows, screaming and in general, acting like complete morons. Every shack downtown has turned into a shitty and overpriced pizza and burger place or an almost Michelin-star restaurant, neither of which the locals can afford. If that wasn’t enough, from April until October there’s at least 2 cruise ships daily docked in the harbour, each with thousands of passengers that just clog the already overwhelmed city, and who bring absolutely no value to the economy. People are bursting at the seams, they can’t function normally in their daily life and they are also being priced out of their homes, as everybody decided to squeeze whatever little buck out of tourism they can. And so on, and so on.

Well said, my friend. I can’t even imagine what the streets look like when passengers from the ships go on land. And that’s in addition to other tourists. And yes, I like it what you said about people wanna be kings for $100. That kind of money won’t buy you much anywhere else, why would anyone expect a lot in such touristy country. And people complaining about Dubrovnik and GoT. Lol. Go anywhere else and every town in the world promotes best what they can. I can’t even imagine what it is like for locals to be overrun by tourists who pee everywhere and vomit yet don’t leave a dime. A little respect goes long way, in my humble opinion. You get what you give. On the other side, just fir fun I Google Croatia sometimes and I always get the same towns in search engines. It’s like Croatia is nothing more but Dubrovnik and Split, how annoying. There’s so much more to see if you know where to go, and probably fir a lot less money.

Hi! Thanks so much for all the information. We’re planning a small wedding in Split and are debating restaurants for our reception (small is very small, ie 6 people including us). Our planner recommended Bokeria which looks like it has great food but seating looks a little communal and not private. Were there any more private seating options there or would you recommend we look elsewhere. Sorry for the random message but appreciate your input!!

Thanks for sharing all your information! I’m sorry the people aren’t friendly in Croatia. I have a friend that’s from there and she’s darling! She says it deoends where you go and what you do ..I don’t know never been.bit it looks beautiful! Great pictures as well ! Happy travels to you! Oh didn’t you get any massages while travelling? I always do so I can stay relaxed and enjoy my trip ! ?

Thanks for the tips – they are great! Can I ask how many days you spent in Croatia with this itinerary?

I would like to say that Croatia is cheaper than Slovenia!

An interesting article and sensible tips. I am going to visit Croatia in the near future, and your article helped me figure out some points. Great photos. Thank. Good luck.

I totally agree with you guys, having just coming back from Croatia. I didn’t have that high of an expectation but I didn’t really think it was that amazing either (also wanted to starting heading back). It was the same price as many other western european cities but without the infrastructure.. I loved the island (Hvar) but that was about it. It’s definitely not one of my favorite countries in Europe.

What a guide, being a best tours providers in Croatia we completely agreed what you are trying to state here…

Appreciate the review. I am hoping to go in September a little off the busy season, I was wondering if you think one day is enough for Plitvice Lakes?

Honest review is much appreciated. I must say, as a local, I agree with most of your thoughts.

Thank you so much for your comment. It’s always good to get a local’s opinion!

I have travelled to Croatia many times over the last ten years from Australia as it became one of my favourite places in the world after my first visit. The towns of Split and Dubrovnik are busy in July and August however in my opinion people overstate this as all the beautiful places in the world are busy, ie French Riviera, Amalfi Coast, Dalmatian Coast and places like Mykonos and Santorini. I for one don’t mind the Crowds other than when Cruise ships are around which you may have encountered in Dubrovnik. They are normally gone by 6pm. There are places that are off the beaten track in Croatia that are stunning and if you want smaller crowds go in June or September. But places like Vis island and Island of Murter are beautiful and not overcrowded during peak season. There is still a good vibe and not too sleepy. Also small cities of Sibenik and Zadar are stunning as is Rovinj and places like Opatilja. Croatia is also a lot cheaper in shoulder season. I’m an avid traveller and blog reader and surprisingly the only time I’ve read a blogger write a negative review is when they are a budget traveller, backpacker or nomadic traveller and the first place they visit in Croatia is Dubrovnik. It’s as if they expect these cheap third world prices not realising they are coming to some of the most stunning and classy old towns in the entire world.

Hey Dan, thanks for your detailed comment. Love hearing about more cities to explore in Croatia, especially ones that are not as crowded. During our trip to Croatia, we were on a year-long trip so we were traveling on a budget, and were slightly surprised but the prices in Croatia compared to neighboring countries. Just want to set expectations straight for other travelers and share our experience so they are prepared.

Hi! I stumbled upon your site while researching for our 2019 trip to Croatia and Slovenia. I appreciate the candid feedback and helps solidify my decision to skip a few of the "must see" towns. It’s hard to skip when you don’t know when/if you’ll make it back, but I know it’s not what we like to do when we travel. It will give us more time to explore wine country.

Glad we could help, Mandy. It is tricky choosing cities sometimes, but you have travel according to your travel style and not just because places are marked as “must see” spots. Have a great trip!

Katie and Ben, Just finished reading about your Croatia trip. First time to see your site. Feedback: You did a good job! Don’t be overly concerned about offering candid opinions based upon your experiences. Even when they may be negative. Travel is like beauty – "In the eyes of the beholder". It is refreshing to read a site that avoid hype and focuses on being honest, even if you sounded somewhat apologetic for not loving Croatia. What is most important is truth in travel. Keep at it.- Costas Christ, Editor at Large, National Geographic Traveler

Wow, we are honored at such a compliment from you, Costas. We always aim to be honest, even if it’s not the easiest way to write. We appreciate honesty when we read other blogs, and we hope others feel the same when they read our writing. Thank you for taking the time to comment.

Thank you for your advice! We are planning a trip to Croatia and plan to use a few tidbits learned from what you’ve mentioned here.

You are very welcome Emily! Let us know if you have any more questions about traveling to Croatia.

I definitely appreciate your honesty! Great tips and advice and words of caution. 😉

Great article, thanks for the tips!

Indeed, Croatia is indeed home to many amazing sights and sounds, but in this beautiful land also lie some tourist-targeting scammers. Do be wary of the hostess bar scam, beach thieves, overcharging restaurants, pickpocketing, flat tire scam, overcharging taxi drivers, holiday apartment scam, car rental scam, border scam and many more!

It’s always good to travel with common sense, David, so thanks for that reminder. We didn’t experience any of these scams while in Croatia (even during busy season). It’s good to be aware, but not to worry about traveling in Croatia.

You’ve numbered the main problems regarding your trip to Croatia: thinking it is still an "undiscovered gem", that you’ve mostly stayed within the most touristy locations and that you had way too high expectations. Croatia is having a huge influx of tourists for the last several years and many people think that it’s still not that discovered, which isn’t true. This year it will be visited by around if not more than 20 million people. Have in mind that the country itself has only a bit over 4 million inhabitants. Also, people read blogs like this that rave about the country and have unrealistic expectations that sometimes can be hard to meet. Especially when you travel in the middle of the summer when the number of visitors can be off-putting. That being said, one needs to do some homework before the trip to know what more or less to expect and not to get unpleasantly surprised and enjoy their visit to Croatia.

Thank you Mario for basically summarizing what we stated in the article. We acknowledged that our expectations were off and wrote this article to inform others so they don’t have the same experience as us. We really liked traveling in Croatia and encourage others to go there as well. We would love to go back during an shoulder or off season.

Hello Ben and Katie,

fantastic and honest article. I agree with everything you write about Croatia. I had to smile about your "high expectations". 😉

My family and I used to travel to Istria in Croatia every summer for, well, at least 5 years? I think the last time we spent our holiday there was maybe in 2011? I remember it to be always crowded, even though we stayed in a small fishermen’s village, not really a big player in the touristic landscape of Croatia. Still, the beach was packed with tourists, families,… but beautiful though. The reason could be, that many Germans and Austrians go there in summer, because it’s nearby, easy to reach and (still) cheaper than Spain or Italy. Sooo july & august, or summer in general isn’t really a great time to explore Croatia.

Though, I have beautiful memories of that country as well. We used to drive around the countryside – and one time, by chance, we came by an old, very small village. It was in the middle of nowhere. Located on a hill and surrounded by the remains of a medieval fortress. The houses and streets were made of stone – and there was absolutely nobody far and wide. So calm. By the time the landscape darkened, it was a cloudy day, and this gave the whole scenery the final touch 😉 I don’t remember the name of that place, but it was somewhere in the middle of Istria.

Hope you’ll go back someday (not in summer!) and have a great time, maybe you can still find some hidden treasures. <3

all the best for your future-journeys,

Kathi from nomadenleben.tumblr.com

Hi Kathi, that sounds like a lovely memory of Croatia, so peaceful and charming. And don’t get us wrong, we would love to travel back to Croatia, but you’re right, we probably won’t go in the summer again. Thanks for your comment.

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Getting around Croatia

Getting around Croatia isn’t difficult, but it requires some planning. In this post, we share information and tips on traveling around Croatia to help you better plan your Croatian trip.

Public transport in Croatia is reliable and easy to use. Croatia’s public transport consists, first of all, of an extensive bus and ferry network. You can also get around Croatia by plane. Train travel within Croatia is, unfortunately, very limited. If you rent a car in Croatia ,  you’ll find that the roads are in great condition, and driving in Croatia is pretty easy.

Table of Contents

Is it easy to travel around Croatia?

Generally speaking, traveling around Croatia is easy. Infrastructure is good, the public transport system, especially bus and ferry networks, is efficient and reliable, roads are in great condition, and the extensive network of multilane motorways connects the north with the south and east with the west.

However, there are a few things to keep in mind.

Seasonality

Daily ferry and bus lines decrease significantly from November through April. And, even worse, some lines completely cease to operate (for example, a catamaran between Dubrovnik and Split, via Korcula, Mljet, and Hvar, runs only from June to September).

Traffic jams on main motorway junctions and at the entrance to the popular resort towns are common in July and August. And even more so on rainy days when most tourists head to the town instead to stay at the beach . Split suffers from some of the worst traffic jams in all of Croatia. This can delay your trip whether you travel on intercity buses or by car.

If there are too many people and cars, sometimes you won’t get on your desired bus or ferry. This is particularly true for ferries, as they operate on a first-come, first-serve basis, and if a ferry is full, you’ll need to wait for the next one. If you plan to travel on foot to the islands and leave the car on the mainland, you should normally be fine even at the last minute of arrival.

The same can happen for people traveling on buses. Make sure you buy your ticket in advance, either online or at the counter, and make sure you arrive at least half an hour before departure to be sure to embark on the bus.

Some regions of Croatia can have strong winds. This sometimes causes closures of the motorways. This is particularly true for the tunnel Sv. Roko on highway A1 (motorway sequence from Zadar to Gospic), Kikovica-Ostrovica sequence on the motorway A6 between Zagreb and Rijeka, and coastal road E65 between Senj and Karlobag.

Destinations

Using public transport in Croatia is easier in some destinations than in others. Zagreb, for example, is well-connected with the rest of Croatia. The same is true for Dalmatia and Dubrovnik regions. You can easily move from Zadar, Split , or Dubrovnik by bus and even plan visits to smaller towns like Trogir, Omis, or Makarska.

However, moving around using buses in Istria or the Croatian Islands is more challenging and, in many instances, not convenient at all, and sometimes it is simply impossible.

What is the best way to travel in Croatia?

Driving is the best way to travel around Croatia. Driving in Croatia is easy and convenient, giving you lots of flexibility. Roads in Croatia are second to none: modern, wide, and easy to navigate.

Public transport is best suited for solo travelers and budget-conscious travelers. However, traveling on inter-city buses takes too much time and is not always the most convenient way to travel. Moreover, some destinations have limited bus networks, especially in Istria and Croatian islands.

Private transfers are expensive but work best when you aren’t comfortable driving yourself but would still like to enjoy the convenience and flexibility of traveling by car.

Shared transfers are rare in Croatia. You can find them sometimes between major destinations and the airport, like this shared transfer from Dubrovnik Airport to Cavtat, and Dubrovnik and Slano .

Carpooling can be an option for people on a tight budget who do not have too much time in Croatia but would like to visit more than one place. In this case, carpooling gives you the speed of a car at the price of the bus. BlaBla Car is the most popular carpooling service in Croatia and is widely used.

How much is transportation in Croatia?

Besides time and convenience, the budget plays a big role when deciding the transport method you will use in Croatia. Here is what you can expect in terms of transportation costs in Croatia.

A one-way bus ticket from Zagreb to Split costs anywhere between 18 € and 25 €, from Zagreb to Dubrovnik is between 23 € and 30 €, while the bus ticket from Split to Dubrovnik will set you back around 20 € (although sometimes you can find ticket as cheap as 10 €, this is more a good luck than the rule).

Depending on the season, car rental in Croatia will cost you anywhere between 20 € and 90 € a day for a mini-sized car. Add to that the fuel cost of about 1,46 € per liter of diesel, or 1.34 € for Eurosuper 95. You must pay road tolls if you decide to use multilane highways in Croatia. The road tolls amount to 16 € from Zagreb to Zadar, 24 € from Zagreb to Split, and 30.60 € from Zagreb to Ploce (last junction direction Dubrovnik).

Ferries are cheap for passengers but very expensive for vehicles. A ferry from Split to Stari Grad on the island of Hvar costs 7.3 € per person and 43.30 € for a car. A passenger catamaran from Split to Hvar Town will set you back 8.4 € per person. The ferry from Split to Supetar on the island of Brac costs 5.5 € per person and 22.6 € for a car. If you visit Korcula from Orebic, the ferry will cost you 3.2 € per person and 12.2 € per car.

If you decide to fly from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, it can set you back 100 € on average. However, sometimes you can get cheaper tickets if you purchase them early enough if you fly during the low season, and if you use less popular flights (like a morning flight from Dubrovnik to Zagreb or a late-night flight from Zagreb to Dubrovnik). When we checked in January for flights in July, the rates were as low as 58 €. It pays to book early!

The cost of a private transfer depends on a vehicle (usually, you will have a choice of a 3- or 7-person vehicle) and the distance. Expect to pay around 450 € for a 3-person transfer from Zagreb to Split, 350 € from Zagreb to Zadar, and 300 € from Split to Dubrovnik. The 8-person vehicles cost about the same, or just a little bit more, so if you are a bigger group, private transfers can be an interesting option to travel around Croatia.

Flying is the fastest way to get around Croatia. But, with only one domestic carrier,  Croatia Airlines ,  flying is not always the cheapest traveling option within Croatia.

The main airports are Zagreb, Pula, Rijeka, Zadar, Split, and Dubrovnik. However, only Zagreb, Split, and Dubrovnik airports serve international flights all year round. Although, just a limited number of them fly from November to April. Other airports are seasonal.

When to get around Croatia by plane?

• If you plan on visiting Dubrovnik from Zagreb, flying there is perhaps your best travel option. First, Dubrovnik is the southernmost town in Croatia. Second, the multi-lane highway goes only as south as Ploce. From Ploce to Dubrovnik, you’ll need to drive on a single-carriageway coastal road. Expect to pay around 100 € for a return ticket from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, or even less if you book early enough.
• If you would like to visit as many places as possible in whatever little time you have in Croatia, then you might consider flying one way and driving another. For example, if you fly into and out of Zagreb, you might rent a car, drive down south, stop along the way, and once you reach the southernmost point of your trip (Dubrovnik perhaps), you can drop off the car, and fly back to Zagreb.

Note: As only one carrier operates on national routes, your only chance to get an affordable ticket is to book early. We suggest you book directly with Croatia Airlines to secure the best deal. Alternatively, shop for the best deals on a CheapOAir website!

Getting around Croatia by bus

Regarding public transportation in Croatia, buses are your best option. The bus network in Croatia is extensive. Buses are frequent, fairly reliable, and affordable (though not cheap).

Bus stations are usually in the center of town or within walking distance from the center. The ticket price includes your luggage too, although if you have a bicycle or additional bags, you will pay extra for the luggage.

Croatia has many bus-operating companies, and not a single one runs on all lines. The largest bus operators with extensive bus networks all over Croatia are Arriva (ex. Autotrans), Flixbus , Croatia Bus , and  Cazmatrans .

There are many local operators like  Libertas in the Dubrovnik region,  Promet Split in the Split region, Liburnija in the Zadar region, and Crnja Tours or Fils in Istria.

The Bookaway and Getbybus do a fairly good job aggregating different bus lines and schedules within Croatia. You can also book your tickets online through their website.

If you travel to or from Zagreb, the Zagreb bus station has a good overview of timetables for all buses, and you can buy tickets online. You can also visit the website of larger bus operators for additional information. Arriva and Flixbus also have user-friendly websites.

When to travel around Croatia by bus?

• You plan to spend enough time in Croatia, like two weeks or more, and you won’t mind spending additional time traveling by bus.
• You only need to go from point A to point B and stay put.
• If you are a solo traveler or a couple on a budget, a bus is perhaps your cheapest option to travel around Croatia. For larger groups and families, it can get as expensive as renting a car.
• You don’t feel comfortable driving on Croatian roads.
• If you don’t plan on traveling on the bus around islands or in Istria. These are the only places in Croatia where local buses are infrequent and not your best travel option.

Whether you travel by car or plan on renting a car, driving is the best way to get around Croatia .

Croatia is small, and getting around by car is the most comfortable and often the fastest way to get around. It takes less than 4-hours drive to reach Split from Zagreb, just over two hours to reach Rovinj, Plitvice Lakes, and Porec, and less than three hours to reach Zadar. Dubrovnik is the only faraway place to travel in Croatia by car ( but that road trip offers the best scenery ever, and it’s totally worth the effort ).

When to move around Croatia by car?

Decide on moving around Croatia by car in the following situations:

• If you like making impromptu stops, explore the less-visited places and the countryside.
• If you like road trips.
• Those who travel in a group or a bigger family often find that traveling in Croatia by car is the cheapest option.
• Those planning to visit Istria and explore the region.
• If you plan to travel around any of the Croatian islands.
• If you have little time but would like to visit a few places.

Note: Many people making a round trip in Croatia often combine flying and driving. They either fly from north to south (e.g. from Zagreb to Dubrovnik) and then rent a car and make their way up north, or vice versa.

RENTING A CAR IN CROATIA: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO DRIVING IN CROATIA

Ferries are often the only way to reach islands. So, you will use a ferry to get around Croatia sooner or later.

The largest ferry company is Jadrolinija , operating most routes with its extensive fleet of ferries and catamarans. Besides Jadrolinija, you’ll also find other operators on some routes, like Kapetan Luka, TP Line, Rapska Plovidba, and Mia Tours .

Kapetan Luka has four lines: three sailing between Split, Hvar, Brac, Korcula, Mljet, and Dubrovnik and one line sailing between Pula, Unije, Susak, Mali Lošinj, Ilovik, Silba, and Zadar.

TP Line offers connection on four lines. Two lines sail between Dubrovnik, Korcula, Lastovo, Elafiti Islands, and Mljet, while the other lines operate between Split, Brac, Hvar, Korcula, Mljet, and Dubrovnik.

You can book a ferry ticket online for Jadrolinija, TP Line, and Kapetan Luka ferries. Other companies sell tickets only at the counter. A Bookaway website is also a good place to shop for ferry tickets online.

tips on traveling around Croatia by ferries

In summer, ferries are crowded, and you should arrive at least two hours before departure to board a ferry.

When you arrive at the ferry terminal, line your car for boarding immediately, then go to the counter to buy a ticket. Ferries operate on a first-come, first-serve basis. If you don’t get to the first ferry, you must wait for another one.

Ferries are cheap if you don’t travel by car. Should you take a car on a ferry depends heavily on how you plan to spend your time on an island. You won’t need a car if you plan to visit only a ferry port village. But you’ll need a car if you plan to explore an island.

You can also get around an island by bus, but buses are infrequent and often don’t leave enough time for a visit. You can also consider renting a car on the island to save on a ferry. But if you plan to do so, make sure you book your car rental well in advance. In high season, finding an available car on the spot is hard.

You can also visit some islands on a private or group boat tour. These tours are available in all coastal towns. An island tour is usually to the nearest islands, including lunch on board. The most popular island tours are The 5 Islands Tour from Split , The Elafiti Island Trip from Dubrovnik , and this Full Day Sailing Trip to Kornati from Zadar .

Some islands, like Lopud, Kolocep , or Silba, are car-free.

Taxis are still expensive in Croatia, except in Zagreb and Rijeka. Taxi service is heavily regulated, and fares are fixed. Taxi-meter is a norm, so make sure your driver turns it on.

UberX is available in Zagreb and Split all year round and in coastal towns like Dubrovnik, Zadar, or Rovinj only in the high season (June to October). Uber in Croatia only works with licensed drivers.

In short, don’t plan much on using taxis unless you don’t mind spending lots of money. You can book a taxi in advance using the Kiwitaxi website .

BlaBlaCar , a carpooling platform, is very popular in Croatia, and many people use it. In fact, my sister-in-law, who works in Vienna but has family in Zagreb, travels every weekend from Vienna to Zagreb and back to Vienna using BlaBlaCar.

The rides aren’t really cheap. Usually, they cost as much as a bus ride. However, the main advantage of carpooling is the time, as you will arrive quicker than traveling by bus.

Hitchhiking

Although Croatia is a very safe country, I wouldn’t recommend hitchhiking. Vera claims she hitchhiked around Croatia a lot when she was in high school. But these days, you don’t see many hitchhikers on the road, and you see even fewer cars picking these few up.

Recommended travel guides

• Fodor’s Croatia Travel Guide (we are co-authors!)
• Lonely Planet Croatia Travel Guide  
• Rick Steves Croatia & Slovenia

Further reading

We’ve got lots of good stuff here at our Croatia Travel Guide and Blog. Stick around, read further, and let us know if we can help with anything regarding your travel to Croatia .

• A Complete Travel Guide To Croatia: 34 Things To Know Before Travelling To Croatia
• Tips For First-Time Travel To Croatia
• Car Rental In Croatia
• Ultimate Packing List For Vacation In Croatia
• Things To Do In Croatia
• Croatia Travel Budget: How Much Money You’ll Need In Croatia
• Money-saving Tips For Croatia
• Where To Have Local, Cheap And Delicious Meals In Croatia
• How To Choose Your Destination In Croatia
• Where To Go In Croatia: Best Places To Visit In Croatia
• A Complete Guide To Accommodation In Croatia
• Driving in Croatia
• Must-try Croatian Food
• How To Get From Split To Dubrovnik And From Dubrovnik To Split

Do you still have a question? Please leave them in the comments below. 

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Home / Croatia Travel Tips / Getting around Croatia

22 thoughts on “Getting around Croatia”

Separate tickets!

Hi Frank, If I’m staying in Dubrovnik and would like to visit Hvar and Bol, do I just need to book a roundtrip ferry to Bol and then I’m able to hop off and on at Hvar on the way to Bol? Or do I need to purchase separate ferry tickets from Dubrovnik to Hvar and then Hvar to Bol?

Hi Tracy, it is doable, much shorter and I believe easier than Camino in many ways, although here you will also have some steeps to climb. Also, some parts are less interested than others, there are also less hikers’ facilities along the route (no dormitories or alike, not many other hikers, but you can still plan your meals and stays along the way – they just won’t be as cheap or basic as on Camino). You send us an email info(at)frankaboutcroatia.com and we’ll hook you with a local guide who can help plan your trip.

Hello! We are 4 women interested in walking through Istria. I have read about the Parenzana trail and wonder if it is suitable to walk from Pula to the other end? We have walked the Camino and would like to have a similar experience of walking in Croatia sampling good food and wine along the way! Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Olga, starting from 1000 Kn (approx. 150 €) a day for a small boat.

Hello, can you please tell, what is the usual price for renting a motor boat in high season?

Hi frank, We are a family of 5, 2 adults 3 children 14,13,11. Looking for accommodation in Porec in the town with a shared pool for use when we get back from daily excursions, can you advise please. We really do not want to drive in the evening!

Looking forward to hearing your advice

What’s the easiest way to get from Split to Makarska

Sound ok to me. Busy, but doable. Yes, online tickets for buses and ferries should be reliable. For ferries 100%, for buses just make sure to be there a bit ahead of time (just in case)

it depends what you like? are you flying in, or driving? Anyways, Hvar, Brac, and Korcula are the most popular

Hello Frank,

I request your help. We are 5 ladies who plan to visit Croatia and would like to visit Plitvice National Park. We plan on landing in Zagreb first, spend a few days here and then go to Plitvice. We would like to spend a couple of days in Plitvice. Could you please advise on the following.

(1) The best way to travel from Zagreb to Plitvice

(2) Options of stay within Plitvice

(3) The best way to travel from Plitvice to Zagreb. Since Dubrovnik is way down south, we were not thinking of visiting this place, but go back to Zagreb and then fly to Budapest or back to our country

I have checked out details on the net and find that travelling within Croatia is not as simple as it seems. At this point I find it complicated so would appreciate any help you can give us.

Is it possible to see Dubrovnik and some of the islands in a 4 day period (I’d ideally like to do some sailing around the Dalmatian coast)…I’d also need to get to Istria after that and was wondering if there was a way or order you’d recommend doing this.. also if you recommend any particular sailing companies.. I’d be flying in from NYC…

Hello Frank, Two people need to travel from Split city centre to Zagreb International Airport on a Sunday morning in July to arrive no later than 12pm. Could you recommend a private transfer/ car company that would be able to accommodate?

Many thanks in advance

if we are traveling to croatia in August with children for 8 days , which Islands should we visit?

Hi Frank, can you provide details on the ferry from Dubrovnik to Bari/Puglia Italy. We are planning 8 days in Croatia (feel free to sugges an Itinerary and or Must See Highlights for our time in Croatia.) WE will be going in early May 2018. is the overnight Ferry a reliable, comfortable and safe option…..traveling overnight should save a day for sightseeing. I read some reviews and they werent too favorable. also there isn’t a timetable, and i would like to book tickets, / dates to ensure securing our tickets.

appreciate any help and suggestions you have.

Hi there- I love all the amazing information and suggestions on frankaboutcroatia- thank you! We are in Australia and trying to book Jadrolinija Catamarans throughout Croatia for our 5 week holiday. The website says we cant pre book these. I know we pre booked 2 years ago on our last trip. Do you know if this is correct or have they not published the 2018 timetable yet? We appreciate any advice, thank you again

How about getting from Vrsar to Split on Oct 1st? There are no direct flights out of Pula on that day and we don’t want to drive. Any ideas on shortest/quickest bus or train routes? Thanks again!

Great website – very helpful!

We are flying into Split next week (4 days there) then taking the Catamaran down to Dubrovnik (4 days there too) then taking the bus to Kotor (3 days on the bay) then bus back to Dubronik – taking boat over to Mjlet Island (2 days) and then onto Brac by boat (2 days) and then back to Split by boat to fly out.

Does that all sound viable? I have booked most of the boats and and bus. We were going to get a car but it seemed like a lot of money and hassle in high season and would be expensive if we wanted to do islands too. Did a lot of research but want to make sure online tickets are safe and viable for boats and buses.

Thanks for any help.

Check Croatia Airlines flights from Pula to Dubrovnik, and taxi between Vrsar, and Pula airport – or bus to Porec, and then shuttle to Pula.

What’s the best way to get from Vrsar to Dubrovnik without renting a car? I don’t want to drive as I’ll be traveling alone. Oct 1st for 1 week. Will either fly out of Dubrovnik or Split back to Seattle.

I will be traveling with friends in July. We want to go by train from Zagreb to Split by train. Question: As seniors, would we be eligible for a reduced senior rate, even though we are not Croatian citizens?

My experiences getting around Croatia in the last 10 years or so.

1. 2/3 of the bus companies we used recently charged us for luggage 2. Downtown Zagreb to downtown Zadar is faster on the bus than flying (unless you live in the airports) 3. Downtown Zagreb to downtown Split is barely faster flying than a bus 4. Downtown Zagreb to downtown Dubrovnik IS faster flying 5. Just about every other combination is faster driving or by bus 6. The train from Zagreb to Ljubljana is much better than a bus 7. The train from Zagreb to Split is a decent alternative to bus but there’s not as many departures 8. If you’re renting a car to get around Croatia it may be fastest and most flexible but also probably one of the most expensive ways even if you pack the car. The price of gas alone between Zagreb and Zadar is equal to bus tickets for five people. Add in car rental and it’s much more expensive than buses. 9. What’s wrong with buscroatia.com for one website to compare bus tickets?

I didn’t mention ferries as I’ve only used them to cross back and forth to Italy. When I go from Zagreb to Ljubljana I always take the train. When I go from Zagreb to Dubrovnik I always fly. Everywhere else I use buses.

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History Buffs: These Beautiful Places In Croatia Will Take You Back In Time

H ome to multiple unique landscapes, Croatia is one of the most visited travel destinations in the world. The country boasts some of the most iconic landmarks that give insight into its culture and fascinating history. The nation's ancient cities and towns were left in ruins but are still the best places to experience the lifestyle of ancient times.

Some of these incredible Croatian historic sites date back to Ancient Rome and are well-preserved. Want to explore Croatia's over 2,000 years of history? Here are some of the most beautiful and historic places in Croatia that will take travelers back in time.

The Old City Of Dubrovnik

Included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1979 , the Old City of Dubrovnik is one of Croatia's most beautiful places to learn about the fascinating history of the country. Located on the Dalmatian coast, on Croatia's south side, this gorgeous city boasts ancient walls that date back to the 16th century.

Dubrovnik was actually one of the most powerful cities in ancient times, recognized for rivaling Venice. Today, it is an incredible spot to connect with the culture and history of Croatia – and there are plenty of historic buildings with impressive architecture to see in the city. The old city is among the best things to do in Dubrovnik, Croatia’s medieval seaside city .

Dubrovnik also served as a filming location for the fictional city of King's Landing in the iconic HBO series Game of Thrones . Visitors can see many of the city's locations on a Dubrovnik Game of Thrones tour .

Related: Here's An Essential Guide To The Historic City Of Dubrovnik

Also referred to as Pula Amphitheater, Pula Arena dates back to the 1st century AD, during the reign of emperor Vespasian, an icon who was also behind the construction of one of the oldest and most beautiful buildings in Paris, the Colosseum in Rome.

Situated right in the heart of Pula, this Roman Amphitheater is one of the most impressive monuments in Croatia and is still in operation. The amphitheater hosts events and festivals, including the annual Pula Film Festival. Vacationers can visit the building and learn its fascinating tale.

The Historic City Of Trogir

The Historic City of Trogir is one of the top destinations in Croatia for history buffs who want to go back in time. One of the city’s most striking features is its Roman architecture, which is incredibly stunning. The city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

The city is home to numerous churches and buildings, Trogie Cathedral being an incredible example of a medieval building. The cathedral dates back to the early 1200s and took more than 400 years to complete. Today, it's one of the most beautiful cities in Croatia that's as historic as it is gorgeous.

Lokrum Monastery

Planning to go island-hopping in Croatia ? Lokrum Island is an incredible spot to explore and is one of the most beautiful islands in Croatia to visit. It is home to an abbey, a Benedictine Monastery, and wildlife, including rabbits and peacocks.

Dating back to the prehistoric period, the island is rich in history, making it a perfect place to step back in time. The earliest record of the Benedictine Monastery dates back to 1023. Some historians claim that the monks used the monastery as early as 915 AD. It served until the 15th century when the monks moved out of the island.

The monastery is still in operation, with a portion of it functioning as a restaurant, and another part, working as a museum.

Korcula Old Town

Korcula Island has plenty of things to see and do . Venetians believe that its old town is the birthplace of Marco Polo. This is the perfect place to see and learn some of the best traditions of Croatia, including the Moreska sword dance.

Korcula is always considered the coolest island in Croatia and has stunning natural attractions, an incredible wine culture, and pristine beaches. Its old town is the major draw for history buffs, as it’s home to plenty of beautiful historic buildings, including the 15th century Saint Mark’s Cathedral, which offers magnificent views of the city below from its iconic bell tower.

Zadar Old Town

Situated in the western part of Croatia, along the iconic Adriatic Sea, Zadar is one of the most beautiful destinations in Croatia. The city's old town is home to some of the most stunning Roman ruins in Europe, historic churches dating back to medieval times, and gorgeous squares.

The ancient ruins in the old town are one of the reasons why Zadar is worth visiting . Also, the city itself is an excellent option for escaping crowds in Dubrovnik and Split. What's more, Zadar is one of the oldest cities in Croatia; in fact, it's the oldest continuously inhabited city in the country.

May through October is the best time to explore Zadar. Want to avoid crowds? Plan a trip in either May, June, September, or October .

Related: Split Vs. Zadar: Which Croatian City Is Better?

Ciovo Island

Located right next to the historic city of Trogir, Ciovo Island is one of the top summer destinations in Croatia. The island is home to impressive beaches, which guarantee unforgettable experiences. It has beautiful natural bays, lavish resorts, and delicious restaurants.

For history buffs, there are multiple historic buildings, including hilltop churches dating back to medieval times. On the southeastern edge of Ciovo Island is Our Lady of Prizidnica, a perfect example of stunning architecture. Vacationers will also enjoy spectacular sea views from there.

Diocletian’s Palace, Split

Diocletian’s Palace is one of the most impressive Roman ruins in Split - one of the best cities in Croatia to visit in terms of historical significance and beauty combined. Dating back to the 4th century, the complex has several stone pathways that lead tourists to iconic structures, like the Golden Gate. It is so huge that it occupies much of the space in the old town.

Some tourists get lost inside the massive complex as they stroll through the narrow alleys. Diocletian's Palace still operates and houses shops, hotels, eateries, and bars. There are also many other Roman ruins in Split to see , each of which travelers should add to their vacation itineraries while visiting.

Related: Split vs. Dubrovnik: Which Croatian Coastal City Is The Best?

St. Nicholas Fortress, Sibenik

Dating back to the 16th century, St. Nicholas Fortress is one of the most iconic historic sites in Croatia. Soaking up an aerial view of Sibenik from this site will take travelers back in time. The fortress is located right at the entrance of St. Anthony's Channel and is a perfect example of Renaissance architecture.

The fortress is set on the islet of Ljuljevac, the site that housed the Benedictine monastery of St. Nicholas, where it got its name. It has a long, fascinating history that visitors can learn during their visit. There are multiple ruins from WWII in the subterranean chambers of the fort.

Salona Roman Ruins

Salona is one of the largest ancient Roman settlements in Croatia, famous for being Dalmatia's provincial capital during the Diocletian period. Considered the most significant archaeological site, these are some of the best of Croatia’s ruins and are a must-visit among history lovers.

The Salona Roman Ruins were constructed in 1898 by Monsignor Frane Bulic. It is where he based himself during his archeological research works. Some of the Park’s ancient treasures are in the Split's Archeological Museum. What tourists will see in Salona is the amphitheater's base and gravestone carvings.

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This overlooked Croatian city is the perfect relaxed weekend break

For aimless exploring with minimal planning, italianate rovinj has it all —  fairytale medieval town, characterful atmosphere, and plenty of local wine and seafood.

A wish-list landmark. An international exhibition. Maybe a sceney restaurant launch. City breaks so often start with an aim but end in joyful aimlessness — casual pottering, mapless exploring, soaking up rather than seeking out. But what happens when you make aimlessness the end game?

Last summer, faced with a rare opportunity to escape for a few nights, my husband and I decided to game it, as the young people might say. We considered destinations served by one favourite tour operator and applied our preferences (coastal, sunny, relatively unknown to us). Rovinj, a city on Croatia’s Istrian peninsula — part medieval port, part chichi tourist resort — emerged as an early winner. It’s one of the best-preserved cities on the Istrian coast in the north Adriatic yet even in high season tends to be quieter than its Dalmatian counterpart, Dubrovnik. Importantly, last June it appeared to have absolutely nothing else to entice us. No high-profile landmarks, no high-energy launches. Perfection.

As it quickly transpired, however, our hotel of choice, the Grand Park, could have lured us in by itself. We booked for availability but would return for the wow factor. This modernist masterpiece sits unobtrusively in tune with its surroundings, almost hewn from the hillside in which it sits, descending tier by naturally planted tier into the sea; its double-height spaces and floor-to-ceiling windows reflect the storybook scenery outside. (Side note: the lobby has Europe’s biggest single-pane window, which has its own specially trained window cleaner.)

From inside, the 180-degree views are straight out of a Ladybird fairytale: Rovinj’s terracotta and ochre rooftops, the elegant bell tower of the Church of St Euphemia, the cornflower-blue sea and the green of the fragrant forest pines in Golden Cape Forest Park.

The coffee table book-filled lobby, spacious bar and main inside-outside buffet restaurant Laurel & Berry set the relaxed tone for the rest of the hotel. Even the fine-dining restaurant Cap Aureo Signature gave off welcoming vibes.

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During a hotel tour, we were almost further seduced by the possibilities of the surrounding area that emerged from the concierge’s enthusiastic chatter: the retro glamour and Roman imperial sites of the Brijuni National Park, a 15-minute boat ride over the Adriatic, and where the Yugoslav president Tito had his glitzy hideaway. Truffle-hunting in the forested havens of Motovun and Buzet, where we could try to break the (supposed) “truffle record” of £49,000 — the price once fetched at Sotheby’s. Hum, the smallest town in the world, whose 17 inhabitants were charged with keeping the secret medieval recipe for mistletoe grappa.

But we remained firm. Not even vineyard tours and the associated tastings could distract us. We were here to explore at an amble.

Our stylish duplex suite was open-plan (including the wardrobes although, in a welcome nod to modesty, they had knicker drawers, and, thank goodness, dividing screens between bed, bath and ablutions), with a shady deck area and private hot tub and retro touches such as a Polaroid camera. But after our early flight it was a struggle to drag ourselves off the super-sized bed, despite having had a glimpse of the magnificent rooftop infinity pool.

But that view was calling — as were sunset cocktails in the hotel bar Primi Terreni. Down by the buzzy promenade, it had a view over the harbour’s superyachts and the ancient city beyond — and came with some prime people-watching: tourists, Croatian families and yacht folk meandered along the seafront.

• Croatia guide • 18 of the best islands in Croatia

We strolled around the harbour to Wine Vault, the restaurant at a neighbouring hotel. The seagull-covered swimming pool meant we didn’t have quite the promised infinity sunset sea view but the food, matched with the first of many flights of proudly presented local wines, did deliver. I was delighted the “truffles with everything” were delicately flavoured with none of their trademark bully-boy dominance. Olive oil also played a starring role, from a dip with the bread to the drizzle on the beetroot risotto (mains from £9; maistra.com).

The next morning, our wandering took us in the other direction, into the old town. In 1283 Rovinj was one of the first towns in Istria to fall to Venice and today the Italian influence is omnipresent (Venice airport is a three-hour drive away; Trieste is even closer). Signs are bilingual and spacious Venetian-style houses proliferate, as do bustling piazzas. Besides those sleek yachts, the charming harbour also offers shelter to traditional flat-bottomed batana fishing boats and small ferries.

Wandering winding streets with wonky cobbles, we caught glimpses of a glittering Adriatic through arched doorways leading to waterside art galleries or shady bars with waves lapping just below the tables. Some drinkers succumbed to the temptation to jump straight in, but not knowing what was around each corner was all the thrill we needed.

It did turn out, however, you need to work a bit harder for Rovinj’s best view. There are 192 steps inside St Euphemia’s bell tower — at 61m high, the highest church tower in Istria — and that’s after you’ve walked uphill to the entrance. The church is a copy of St Mark’s Basilica in Venice but imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and it sits as naturally here as it might in the city that inspired it.

This, and every afternoon, led back to the hotel’s rooftop infinity pool — I mean, why wouldn’t it? Those views of the light changing across the seascape, the table service, the welcome “use it or lose it” rule for sunbeds. There was even a trained hawk making sure those pesky seagulls weren’t an issue.

We had more adventure than we bargained for in grabbing hotel bikes to explore the national park one day — frustrating lift systems and lack of signage meant we first had to explore much of the underbelly of the hotel. But the bike paths and stony coves made up for this and we spent a dozy hour in our chosen nook listening to waves lap the pebbles.

Every day, we saw the hotel’s slick speedboat ferry guests across the water to Rovinj’s “beach” on St Catherine Island. Interest piqued, we went too. And stayed until we could get the next ferry back. Unless concrete walls around stony beaches in searing sunshine is your idea of fun, my advice is to save yourself the trip and instead take the plunge from the harbour wall — although do check those crystal-clear waters for jellyfish. A shoal curtailed my first dip.

Evenings were framed by a gently recurring routine — starting with our aperitivo perch of choice at the hotel’s elevated Viva Eufemia bar, with views not only over Rovinj but over the wildflowers and grasses of the hotel’s tiers below. The sun poured in under the parapet, we had gift-wrapped “snacks” with every drink … the only thing that could have improved it were slightly more generous measures.

Generosity was not in short supply anywhere else we ate, though, such as at the former wine cellar Kantinon, with its simple and delicious harbourside meal of octopus salad and risotto with cuttlefish and lavender (mains from £14; maistra.com). As we sat in the archway surrounded by the ancient barrels, live music from the town square drifted across the water, people flitted back and forth and the sun set over St Euphemia church, as the Breton-topped proprietors plied us with anonymous but delicious digestifs.

Agli Amici, part of our hotel but on the marina, is the Italian chef Emanuele Scarello’s Michelin-starred place, where we could perfect the art of yacht-spotting while admiring the old town and St Catherine Island too. One waiter wheeled over an ornate trolley to make us bloody maggies — like a bloody mary but with gin and the same shade of cherry red as the fiery sunset — while another served us exquisite canapés that tasted of the sea. A designated bread waiter (of course) highlighted the craftsmanship in the bread basket, which rivalled the delicate and artistically constructed amuse-bouches and creations such as miso and olive ice cream. I still dream of the spaghetti with sea herbs (three courses from £102; agliamici.it).

We saved the hotel’s other fine-dining restaurant, Cap Aureo Signature, for last. Talk about ending on a high (not that we could properly enjoy our elevated location — taller chairs would allow diners to feast on the view as well as the dishes). With a wine pairing for each of the ten courses, and extra delicacies in between, our focus quickly became simply getting through the meal (ten courses from £154; maistra.com). But it was clear nothing would be as we knew it, from the “snacks” — chef Jeffrey Vella’s take on a pizza ai funghi was served with a glass (and several top-ups) of Billecart Salmon brut rosé — to my standout dish, a minute bowl of squid cacio e pepe and crispy red mullet. My husband’s favourite was the barbecued and dusted pork loin with fermented truffle jus and confit garlic bulb. We did manage all ten courses, but only just. And in doing so broke our resolution. With bellies full to bursting, there was absolutely nothing aimless in our short stroll (more of a roll) back to our room. Bed called. Claire Irvin was a guest of Sovereign, which has four nights’ B&B at Grand Park Hotel Rovinj from £1,399pp, including flights and transfers ( sovereign.com ) and Maistra Hospitality Group ( maistra.com )

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Five of Europe’s best national parks – with all the beauty but none of the crowds

Offering exquisite scenery, rare wildlife and spectacular trails, these under-the-radar national parks are worth tracking down

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Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici , Spain

There is a wild and wonderful water world in the north-eastern corner of Spain. The Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici national park , in the central Pyrenees north of Lleida, is characterised by more than 200 lakes fed by melting snow and ice, plus rivers and streams, gorges, waterfalls and marshes. ( Aigüestortes means “winding waters” in Catalan, and Sant Maurici is the biggest lake.)

Visitors can explore by bike – there are 13 routes, from flat family paths to challenging mountain biking. There are also 27 hiking trails with spectacular viewpoints over the lakes, which reflect the surrounding forests and mountains. These include Los Encantados, a pair of near-identical peaks. Wildlife includes bearded vultures and grouse, one of the emblems of the Pyrenees.

In the Vall de Boi , eight Romanesque churches and a hermitage, all built in the 11th and 12th centuries, are characterised by tall narrow bell towers. It is possible to visit them all in a day, walking between the villages. After that, walkers can relax in Caldes de Boi thermal spa , which is set in large gardens and has 37 natural springs.

June and July are among the best times to visit, to experience the Fallas festivals. In these centuries-old midsummer rituals enormous torches are carried down the mountains into the villages, where a great bonfire is lit and the party begins. This year, the dates are 14 June in Durro, 23 June in Boí, 6 July in Barruera, 13 July in Erill la Vall, 19 July in Taüll and 26 July in el Pla de l’Ermita.

Accommodation includes the Aigüestortes Camping Resort (from €25 for a pitch for two) and a network of mountain refuges , including Amitges (€40 B&B). Wild camping is not allowed. There are daily coach services from Barcelona, Lleida and Tremp to most of the villages around the park, and from June to September a park bus connects the two main entrances, Boi and Espot.

Mercantour, France

In the far south-east corner of France, between the southernmost Alps and the Mediterranean Sea, lies the Mercantour national park . Half a dozen uninhabited valleys stretch for 100 miles, from Barcelonnette to Sospel, with scattered villages around the periphery. This diverse landscape, from almost alpine to coastal, provides a habitat for a huge range of wildlife. Of more than 2,000 species of flowers and plants, 200 are rare and 30 endemic; there are 200 kinds of bird, including golden eagles and ptarmigans, and 78 mammals, including wolves, marmots and all six French ungulates (stag, deer, wild boar, ibex, chamois and mouflon).

One unmissable spot is the Valley of Wonders, a huge archaeological site of about 40,000 rock carvings, with the oldest dating to around 3,000BC. They depict daily life and beliefs, with engravings of cattle, weapons and geometric figures. Other highlights include the glacial lakes of Vens, which feed a series of waterfalls, and Lake Allos, the biggest high-altitude natural lake in Europe.

For hikers there are more than 1,000 miles of trails (about 350 miles in the heart of the park), from gentle walks in meadows and woodland to strenuous mountain treks – the highest peak, Gélas, is 3,143 metres.

A website for hikers details more than 100 day walks, about 20 itineraries of between two and seven days, and the 17-day, 140-mile Grande Traversée du Mercantour. It also lists accommodation from hotels to campsites. Mountain refuges offer dormitory beds and shared meals: they include La Cantonnière , Refuge des Lacs de Vens , Refuge de la Cougourde and Chalet de la Madone de Fenestre (from €20pp). Wild camping in tents is banned, but bivouacs are allowed between 7pm and 9am.

Lots of visitors choose to stay in one of the towns along the main road that passes to the south of the park, such as St-Martin-de-Entraunes, St-Sauveur-sur-Tinée, St-Etienne-de-Tinée and St-Martin-Vésubie.

Car-free travel is encouraged: there are daily buses from Nice, Monaco and Menton to each valley, and intra-valley shuttles, plus a tourist train line from Nice that calls at several villages. In the summer, there are dedicated buses for hikers, also from Nice.

Eifel, Germany

Strictly speaking, the Eifel national park in North Rhine-Westphalia, in far-west Germany, is still classed as “in development” – it was founded 20 years ago, and it will take another 10 years for 75% of the land to return to nature. But more than half the area has already been rewilded. Beech and oak trees that would once have been felled are now left as undisturbed woodland, and animals such as wild cats, woodpeckers, red deer, and rare lizards and bats have returned. There is a red deer observation gallery near Dreiborn – September and October are the best times to visit, to observe the rutting season. The rivers attract black storks and kingfishers, and wild daffodils can be found on the Dreiborn Plateau. At the birdwatching station on Lake Urftsee, there are two telescopes to watch the black storks, red and black kites, herons and cormorants.

One of the best ways to explore the park is on the four-day, 53-mile Wilderness Trail . Visitors can walk it independently or book a package , which includes three nights’ B&B and transfers by bus and train (from €269pp). There are also five shorter hiking circuits (from three to 11 miles each); 65 miles of cycle paths; and 40 miles of bridleways. Free ranger tours take place most days, and there are boat tours in the summer.

In 2014, Eifel became the first international dark sky park in Germany. The Vogelsang observatory organises regular astronomy workshops and dark sky walks. Historical sites include Monschau Castle, Steinfeld Monastery and Mariawald Abbey.

About 30 national park hosts offer environment-friendly stays, including two campsites and nine hostels. Overnight guests are entitled to the GästeCard , which provides free travel on buses and trains in the Eifel national park discovery region, stretching from the border with the Netherlands at Aachen to Cologne, Bonn and Leverkusen.

Risnjak, Croatia

The mountainous, forested Risnjak national park is named after one of its rarest residents, the lynx – ris in Croatian. It contains the Risnjak and Snježnik massifs in the northern part of the Dinaric Alps and is an important habitat for brown bears, wolves and chamois. Birds include capercaillie and pygmy owl; 89 species of butterfly have been recorded, and a variety of wild orchids grow there.

Visitors can walk to the source of the Kupa river, a bright turquoise pool, via Wonderful Butterfly Valley (35 minutes); follow the Leska educational path to learn about the park (three miles), or climb 11 peaks – Risnjak is the highest at 1,528 metres, with Snježnik just behind at 1,506 metres. Panoramic views stretch across Istria – the Adriatic is just 11 miles away – and as far as the Julian Alps in Slovenia. In the summer, there are guided chamois-spotting tours (from €65 for five hours). Cycle routes range from 2½ to 25 miles ( mountain bike hire is from €4 for three hours/€12 for 24 hours). Fly fishing for brown trout and grayling is allowed from spring to autumn (€55 a day).

Only about 60 people still live in the park. Limited accommodation includes a guesthouse and a hostel in the mountain village of Crni Lug (beds from €13), a mile from the main entrance, and a refuge below the Risnjak summit, built by botanist Josip Schlosser in 1932. There are more options in Delnice, the nearest town (eight miles away), and even more in Rijeka, the nearest city, on the coast about 100 minutes’ drive away.

Buses run from Delnice and Rijeka to Crni Lug, or it is a 90-minute drive from Zagreb. The entrance fee is €6 adults/€3 children.

Peneda-Gerês, Portugal

There is only one national park in Portugal: Peneda-Gerês , in the far north-west, near the border with Spain. Luckily, it has a bit of everything: mountains, oak forests, holly-bush woods, wildflower meadows, peatlands, rivers and waterfalls. It is home to endemic species such as the gold-striped salamander, endangered species including the Iberian wolf and Iberian wild goat, plus roe deer, wild garrano ponies, barrosã cattle and sheepdogs.

There are about 15 official day walking trails ranging from a couple of kilometres to a 16-mile circular trek taking in a megalithic necropolis and a birdwatching plateau. Other routes go via medieval castles, monasteries and sanctuaries. But the ultimate way to explore the park is on the GR50 , a 120-mile, 19-stage route along Roman roads, pilgrims’ ways and smugglers’ trails. The GR50 crosses the hills of Castro Laboreiro, the mountains of Peneda, Soajo, Serras Amarela and Gerês, and the Mourela Plateau. Each stage ends at a village – about 9,000 people live in the park – with simple lodges and guesthouses to stay in.

On shorter trips, visitors could combine a stage or two with some canoeing or canyoning. The super-fit could run it: there is a trail-running event in May with races over five distances from 10 to 100 miles.

The easiest way to reach the park on public transport is by bus from Braga to the town of Gerês, a five-minute walk from one of the five park gates.

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Northern adriatic: a voyage to montenegro, croatia and venice.

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Date: Mon, July 28, 2025 - Tue, August 5, 2025

Trip Status: Waiting for the brochure

Price: From $6,595

Activity Level: Moderate

Region: Europe

Arrangements: Orbridge

Embark upon an unforgettable journey cruising the captivating northern Adriatic, weaving through a tapestry of enchanting destinations that span Croatia, Montenegro and the cultural gems of Northern Italy. On board your five-star vessel, enter a world where the delicate balance between modern luxury and responsible travel is seamlessly achieved. On land soak in the beauty of Dubrovnik’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the terraced waterfalls of Krka National Park.

Traverse the charming streets of Kotor and Montenegro. Visit the city of Hvar, the sun-drenched, fishing-village-turned chic ”Croatian-Rivera.”  Lose yourself in the labyrinthine lanes of Šibenik and Split, where the juxtaposition of old and new captivates the senses, and cross the Adriatric Sea for rewarding excursions to Bologna, San Marino, Emilia Romagna and the Marche regions. All while savoring a gourmet culinary dining experience that reflects the richness of the destinations you explore.

Reservations and Information

To reserve, complete a registration form in the brochure and mail to Duke Travels, Box 90572, Durham, NC 27708, or call (919) 684-2988 to reserve conveniently over the phone and let us know you are mailing your reservation form to hold your space. To learn more about our travel program or any of our upcoming trips, please contact us at [email protected] or 919-684-2988

Duke Leaders

Mode of Travel

Ocean cruise.

Cruise Croatia announces 2025 small-ship cruising lineup

Specialist small-ship cruise line Cruise Croatia has launched its 2025 small-ship cruising program, with 105 guaranteed seven-night departures available throughout the season. The luxury yacht operator will deploy five vessels across the season, with departures from early May to mid-October next year.

The itineraries, available to book now, sail between Split and Dubrovnik, taking in the spectacular Dalmatian coast. Ports of call include well-known favorites such as the medieval towns of Trogir and Hvar, alongside lesser-known, hidden gems such as Korcula, Vis, and the national parks of Mljet and Krka.

In addition to the existing lineup, the 2025 season features a new Signature Croatia Hidden Gems Cruise. The seven-night voyage will sail from Split to Opatija, on June 21 and September 20, 2025, on the 36-passenger M/S My Wish. The cruise will visit hidden gems like Sibenik, Zadar, and undiscovered islands such as Losinj, Krk, and Rab. This itinerary will also take guests to the magnificent Plitvice Lakes with its seemingly endless waterfalls.

Cruise Croatia is also running other favorites, like the Signature Opatija to Dubrovnik cruise, which takes in the full length of the Croatian coastline. This route has proved popular with guests looking to enjoy sailing through four different archipelagos, namely the Kvarner Islands, Kornati Islands, Pakleni Islands, and the Elaphiti Islands, each offering guests a different landscape and experience.

“With five luxury ships in operation, we have an unbeatable choice for customers to visit the most popular destinations in Croatia, as well as stunning, undiscovered hideaways only accessible via smaller vessels,” said Graham Carter, co-founder and Chief Commercial Officer at Cruise Croatia.

To celebrate the launch of its upcoming itineraries, Cruise Croatia is offering €75 per cabin bar credit and a three-course traditional Croatian village dinner experience in Korcula for any May 2025 departure booked by June 30, 2024. Plus, for group bookings of 10 or more, guests will receive a 5% reduction in cabin costs, alongside €50 per person in onboard credit. The group organizer will also receive a 50% savings on their cabin cost.

Each sailing includes sea-view accommodation; breakfast, lunch, and two on-board dinners; daily excursions including guided tours, wine tasting, and park entrance; use of water toys; on-board educative lectures; private airport transfers in Croatia on arrival and departure and a privilege card offering exclusive rates at restaurants on shore. Rates start at $1975 per person.

TikTok: 2023’s Hottest Travel Destinations Right Now

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Kiwis warned of European restrictions ahead of summer OEs

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Shoulder months may become less of a 'hack' to avoid tourist crowds and price hikes. Photo / 123rf

European summer is fast approaching - but Kiwis heading on their OEs might be surprised to find that their favourite spots are a little trickier to visit in 2024.

Summer hotspots like Croatia and Italy are putting in place controversial measures to manage increasing tourist numbers, which may put a damper on Kiwis’ upcoming travel plans.

Venice, a top spot for those travelling to Italy, saw 3.2 million tourists book overnight stays in the historic town in 2022 - a stark contrast to the 50,000 local residents of the town.

Now, Venice will charge day-trip visitors for entry in an attempt to prevent numbers from surging.

The capital of northern Italy’s Veneto region has put a ticket system in place, which will be monitored by inspectors conducting spot checks at locations across the Unesco World Heritage site. Visitors will need to buy a five euro ($9) ticket when spending the day in the canal-lined town.

In 2021, concerns over the environmental impact of huge cruise ships saw the popular travel mode banned from Venice’s shores.

Additionally, Venice has introduced a tax for tourists staying overnight.

Netherlands

For years, Amsterdam has been trying to clean up its image as being a prime location for bachelor parties, illicit substance abuse and sex, which brings in nearly 20 million tourists a year.

The Dutch capital launched an online campaign in 2023 discouraging young Brits from visiting Amsterdam to chase cheap thrills, with officials warning them that they should “stay away” or risk imprisonment.

Amsterdam also announced last week its plans to ban the building of new hotels and to halve the number of river cruise ships in the Dutch city over five years.

Last year, Amsterdam also banned smoking cannabis on the streets of the red-light district.

Dubrovnik, a medieval walled city in Croatia, is one of Europe’s most overcrowded towns, with the constant buzzing of tourists often making it impossible to enter the historic Old Town, a Unesco world heritage site.

Often regarded as the jewel of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik has seen a massive increase in tourists since the popular show Game of Thrones was filmed there in 2011.

In 2023, the small town saw 1.2 million tourists in stark contrast to the 41,000 locals who live there. However, the numbers have lowered since 2019, which saw a record number of 1.4 million people visit.

Five years ago, Croatian authorities restricted the amount of cruise ship arrivals to two per day, with no more than 4000 passengers per ship.

They also introduced an app that utilises machine learning and weather forecasts to predict when the Old Town is prone to more visitors.

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Barcelona’s former mayor between 2015 and 2023, Ada Colau, cracked down on illegal Airbnb rentals that were said to be pricing locals out of the property market at the time.

The capital of the Catalonia region also restricted the number of guided tour groups entering the historic La Boqueria market, especially during peak shopping hours.

In the city centre, tour groups must be limited to a maximum of 20 people and guides are banned from using loudspeakers.

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Lonely Plan-it: how to plan a Croatian island-hopping adventure

Feb 7, 2023 • 7 min read

With a bit of planning, you can get the most out of a jaunt across Croatia’s staggeringly beautiful islands © Getty Images/ iStockphoto

In Lonely Plan-it, we take you step by step through how we planned some of the most complicated travel adventures, so you can recreate them yourself with ease. Here, writer Lucie Grace shares how to put together the perfect Croatian island-hopping trip. 

When I moved to Croatia , I was aware of length of the country and its sprawling coastline. But the number of islands and islets here? That came as a surprise.

“More than 1200” is definitely not the answer I would have guessed. So after arriving, I decided to leave my suitcases at my friend’s hostel in the leafy, laid-back capital of Zagreb and trundled off with just a backpack to see as many of the 48 inhabited islands as I could. I started with the Dalmatian Coast, keen to visit the most famous destinations and catch a glimpse of the dazzling Renaissance churches and baroque town halls before tourism bounced back. 

I don’t drive a car – but since bus, train and ferry links in Croatia are cheap and efficient, reaching the islands is entirely doable without getting behind the wheel. And no matter how long the journey takes, once you dip your toes in the clear waters of the Adriatic, you’ll forget all about the bus you were just on.

The ultimate island-hopping trip does take a bit of planning, though – not only to home in on your must-see destinations, but also to research ferry schedules, off-season closures and local festivals. Accept that you’ll barely scratch the surface, put FOMO to bed and aim for the spots that appeal most: fewer is more in the island game.

Luckily, we’re here to demystify the process, with some helpful tips and practical pointers. 

Step 1: Pick your loop 

Decide whether to see the greatest hits or to visit lesser-known spots. 

First things first: ask yourself if you’re committed to jumping between islands. If not, you can always do as the locals do and spend your vacation happily grazing and lazing on just one. Rustic Šolta , olive grove–dotted Ugljan or the rugged shores of Vis are great picks, all being idyllic yet easily accessible from mainland city ports. 

Definitely keen to visit a few? Decide between doing a loop of the Dalmatian islands in the  south  or exploring the equally charming archipelago in the Kvarner Gulf to the  north . 

The classic Dalmatian-coast route employs ferries that start in Split and link  Brač ,  Hvar ,  Korčula  and  Mljet , before ending in  Dubrovnik  (or the other way around, starting in Dubrovnik and ending in  Split ). It boasts popular islands like Hvar, while also ensuring you can see two of the country's top cities for travelers. 

The  Kvarner  islands are ever-so-slightly less trodden, and include  Krk ,  Cres ,  Lošinj ,  Pag  and  Rab , in the bay between the vibrant maritime cities of  Rijeka  and Zadar. This cluster is  just as wonderful as the Dalmatian islands , if marginally less popular due to their lack of  Game of Thrones  cachet.

Regardless, all of Croatia’s islands have buckets of charm, with different traditions, foods and scenery. 

Step 2: Find the right time of year 

Ferry schedules vary by seasons, so find the time that works for you. 

You’ve chosen your route? Now to select the best time to go . Spring and autumn are the perfect seasons to immerse yourself in local culture and gastronomy, when the climate is pleasant and ideal for sightseeing. Cyclists and hikers enjoy the fresh temperatures of these seasons too – they just require some extra organization as you’ll need to work around the irregular ferries. 

The two main ferry services –  Krilo and state-owned Jadrolina – start ramping up their daily services come May and June, adding ever-more service throughout the glorious summer months. But August is best dodged: as in Italy , Croatia subscribes to the tradition of closing the office for the month of August to relax on (you guessed it) an Adriatic island. This makes accommodation scarce and pricey, and adds traffic to otherwise quiet beach roads. Aside from August, summer is ideal for beach lovers; the konoba restaurants and guest houses are open, and there’s a swathe of festivals to add to your itinerary.

A few top local shindigs to have on your radar: the Easter weekend procession Za Križen (“Following the Cross’’) on Hvar; the Korčula Sword Dance Festival , performed from June to September; EDM fun at Hideout Festival on Pag in July; and the Brač Film Festival in August.

Finally, if you’re a committed off-peak traveler, it’s not impossible to cruise to a few islands in the winter, as a skeleton service of ferries does run to keep the islands connected. Just keep in mind that the winds are fierce and many businesses close during the off-season; I wouldn’t recommend visiting then unless you have a novel to write.

Step 3: Decide how many nights to spend on each island

Our advice: you're not going to want to rush on any of these amazing islands. 

Now that you’ve pinpointed your region and time of year to visit, it’s time to pick the islands that provide the sort of experience you want from your holiday. Do you fancy wild, unspoiled beaches? Head to Cres. Roman ruins? It’s Hvar you’re after. Wine-tasting at rolling vineyards? Don’t miss Korčula. Dancing all night long? Pag is for you. And then there’s the most scenic beach in the country, the famous peninsula of Zlatni Rat , on Brač. I also rate Krk very highly, as I love to visit abandoned buildings: the seaside town of Malinska is home to the Haludovo Palace Hotel , a dilapidated modernist masterpiece (but since you’ll have to enter at your own risk, you didn’t hear that from me).

Once you’ve worked out whether you’re after rest and relaxation or all the food and culture you can get your hands on, decide how many days to spend on each island. The ferries may dictate the length of your sojourn, depending on the month you go; either way, don’t rush it. I definitely advise two nights minimum per stop – ideally three, to really relax into the pace of island life. No one wants to end a vacation more exhausted than they started it.

Step 4: Book your accommodation and transport 

Spontaneity is great, but Croatian island-hopping benefits from some planning. 

Finally, it’s time to get booking. I’d start the accommodation trawl a few months before you go so as to have your pick of the best places. It’s also smart to book your bus tickets a few weeks prior. Local bus service Arriva Croatia offers routes on the islands, with seats bookable up to 30 days in advance; you save 50% by buying as soon as they go on sale, with fares cheaper on the phone app than the website (download it in advance). I’d also advise booking ferry spots in advance. You’ll be fine booking the main routes a day or two before you set sail – but best not to chance it if you’re traveling outside the summer months when services are less frequent. If you’re taking the scenic train from Zagreb to Split or vice versa, that’s worth pre-booking, too, as it’s a small train and it fills up fast.

If I could do it all over again…

My next visit to a Croatian island or two (or 14) will certainly be less rushed, and I’ll plan to stay on each island for longer. One night on sleepy Cres is not enough; I’m still reminiscing over the smell of cypress trees and the light dancing on the crystal blue bays. I won’t be staying bang in the center of Hvar old town again, though: it’s the clubbing center of the Dalmatian islands, so not for you unless you want to party all night (if you do, then don’t miss it).

Pack your own food if you’re vegan; dietary requirements are catered to in big Croatian cities but less so on the islands. And of course, driving is much easier than relying on buses. I’ve since got my motorbike license – so I’ll be rolling along in 2023.

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