trek 1.1 road bike weight limit

Trek 1.1 review

The Trek 1.1 is Trek's bottom rung road bike, but that doesn't mean budget ride quality

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The Trek 1.1 has got plenty of great features to like. It's a comfortable alloy frame with a carbon fork and it's versatile thanks to the pannier mounts. If you can look past the weight and the iffy brakes this would be a great bike for new riders or those wanting to start commuting to the office.

Comfortable ride

Carbon fork

Tubeless ready wheels

Pannier rack/mudguard compatible

Brakes could be better

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At £625, the Trek 1.1, alongside the Trek Lexa 2, occupies the lowest level of Trek’s bike roster. But, for its diminutive status, it delivers a tidy ride that’d definitely be befitting a beginner rider.

Buy now: Trek 1.1 at Evans Cycles for £625

Despite occupying the lower rungs of Trek’s hierarchy, the 1.1 is still given that distinctively Trek sloping top tube boasting Trek’s H2 fit system, a feature that the brand believes to be the optimum on bike position.

>>> Best cheap bikes under £1000: bikes from £260 ridden and rated

According to the company, it’s a feature that travels right to the top, with Trek-Segafredo riders also using the same fit system to get their race machines right.

In real life, it’s certainly not uncomfortable, and the soft bend in the arms is comfortable enough for extended rides at least, and the size 56cm fit my 5,11 frame comfortably.

The frame itself is made from 100 series Alpha Aluminium, which happily brings a balance between comfort and weight. Meanwhile, the carbon fork helps eliminate road buzz and keep the weight down as much as possible.

Other neat touches include the mounts for pannier racks as well as mudguard compatibility, which definitely helps make this a truly versatile machine, whether you want to go far or just commute to the office.

Specification

As an entry-level bike, you’re naturally looking at some entry level components, and the Trek 1.1 doesn’t come flashing the sportiest of gear, but happily, it all functions well.

The 1.1’s drivechain is a bit of a mish mash of parts. Shimano Claris takes care of shifting, with its Claris range making up the shifters as well as both front and rear derailleurs. The crankset and cassette meanwhile are outsourced to Vuelta Corsa and Sunrace respectively. No doubt to keep costs down.

The Claris shifting performed well, as you’d expect from a low-end groupset from Shimano – a company that traditionally does budget very well. 

>>> Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo groupsets explained

However, the performance of the brakes was less inspiring. They will stop you eventually, but they’re not the most effective. Mix in a grabby, stiff action and they're not the most confident inspiring.

Elsewhere, the Bontrager AT-750 wheels felt bombproof, and they're tubeless ready. The 25mm rubber they’re shod with are also a welcome touch, adding comfort to the ride, although these aren't tubeless ready so you'll have to upgrade if you want to go down that route.

The rest of the finishing kit is made up of Bontrager’s in house parts, all of which did the job well. Up front the Bontrage Race handlebar brings some serious width to the front end, which won't be to everyones preferences, but new riders will enjoy the added comfort.

The ride quality of the Trek 1.1 is on point for its price. The aluminium frame irons out the bumps in the road, while the carbon fork evens out any jarring hand buzz, making for a very comfortable ride.

The upright position definitely helps here, and the wide bars help keep your arms in a comfortable position while holding your shoulders in a sustainable position. Its large looking frame is also  dead stable at speed. it's comforting to ride, at no point feeling jittery or nervous.

Watch: Handlebar height and reach – how to get them right

Of course, such levels of stability can often mean a diminishment in mobility, and the Trek 1.1 is not an agile bike likely to make fast turns or whip around road furniture. At this level though, it’s a sacrifice I’m willing to make for the level of comfort on offer from the bike.

This size and stability does mean that the Trek 1.1 comes with a weight penalty, and at 9.33kg it is a bit of a beast to haul up and over those hills. Helpfully, the compact chainset (50/34 configuration) coupled with the 11-28, 8 speed cassette on the back makes getting up those inclines just that little bit easier.

>>> How to ride faster up short, steep hills (video)

Matching the Trek 1.1 against other major cycling retailers reveals that it’s not too far off the money in terms of its spec.

Giant’s entry level machine, the Contend 2, costs £50 less but comes with the same, Shimano Claris drivechain, and configuration of own brand finishing kit. Although on the Trek you are getting a carbon fork.

Both companies are put in the shade by B’Twin though, which offers its Triban 540 road bike for £650, equipped with a carbon fork and Shimano 105 , a higher end groupset.

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Trek 1.1 review

Dependable road ride

Russell Burton

Trek have brought their experience to bear on the 1.1, producing an excellent budget-priced racer. Its short wheelbase makes it a fast, fun bike to ride and even with an aluminium rather than carbon fibre fork, it's a far from harsh ride.

• Frame: Trek Alpha Aluminium frame and aluminium fork in a good looking glossy finish. Has mudguard eyelets and clearance, and mounts for a rear rack increase versatility (8/10)
• Handling: The short wheelbase and light weight make this a nimble beast with fast but not twitchy handling (8/10)
• Equipment: Shimano 2300 combined with an FSA Tempo compact chainset and loads of solid, functional kit from Trek-owned Bontrager (7/10)
• Wheels: Bontrager tyres, Bonty-approved rims and 23mm tyres form a fairly lightweight wheelset for the price (8/10)

The Trek 1.1 has American pedigree and Far Eastern manufacturing skills behind it, with the chassis sporting a ‘Designed in Waterloo, Wisconsin’ label and the large welds typical of Taiwanese frames, with a bold, bright, tough-looking paintjob. Trek clearly have confidence in their products too, as the 1.1 comes with a lifetime guarantee.

There’s no carbon fork, with aluminium doing the job instead – and a very good one too. Though Lance Armstrong’s name is closely associated with Trek, the 1.1 isn’t purely a race machine. It comes with 23mm tyres, but there’s room to fit wider rubber or a set of mudguards. There are also mounts for a rear rack and eyelets for front and rear ’guards, adding to its year-long, all-rounder status.

The components are mainly Shimano 2300 and Bontrager. Levers and both mechs are Shimano, with Bonty in charge of handlebar and tape, stem, seatpost and tyres. The chainset is FSA’s compact Tempo, a 50/34T setup paired with a Sun Race 12-25 cassette. The resulting 37-113in range might be a little narrow for some.

Less keen climbers or those returning to cycling might appreciate a lower bottom gear for tackling severe climbs more comfortably, while the top gear won't please power pedallers. It’s a pity that a triple isn’t offered as an option. The Trek has quite a short wheelbase which contributes to some sharp handling, though some toe overlap could result.

Neither the fork nor the seatpost is carbon, but we still found this a comfortable ride. It’s quite compact, which helps take the sting out of poorer road surfaces, and this combined with its decent weight means it’s one you could tackle sportives on. The wheels are conventional 32-spoke designs with Bontrager semi-deep section rims, paired with 23mm Bontrager tyres, which we liked.

It’s hard to see how you could significantly improve the Trek 1.1. True, a carbon fork would be nice and trim a little more weight, but this is so well designed that you don’t really notice its absence. And some might prefer a wider gear range. But it’s well made, looks great, and you can see why the 1.1 has proved so popular. It might not make you the new Lance Armstrong, but you’ll have no reason not to get out and ride.

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Trek Alpha 1.1 Review

November 18, 2022

‍ Key Takeaways

• The Alpha 1.1 was an entry-level road bike built from 2011 - 17.
• Trek Bicycle Corporation is headquartered in Waterloo, Wis.
• The Trek Alpha 1.1 was one of the best values for the money.

This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

‍ One of the best entry-level bikes that Trek ever made was the Alpha 1.1. Even though Trek no longer produces this gem, the bike still has plenty to offer.

Made from 2011 - 2017, the Trek Alpha 1.1 sought to attract a new generation of riders to the love of cycling. The Alpha was the least expensive of the Trek lineup, which helped it achieve a reputation for being a great value. The bike was known for being lightweight, fast, and very durable.

Battling years of negative press, Trek Bicycle Corporation found itself in full-blown damage control in early 2010. Their alleged involvement in doping plagued them (which their team leader, Lance Armstrong, admitted to using a couple of years later), coupled with a very public lawsuit over the leadership of Lemond Cycles had left a sour taste in the hearts of the public. To counter its tarnished public image, Trek introduced an entry-level bicycle to try and attract new riders. Their mission was to produce a higher quality road racer without the expensive price tag. So, to accomplish this task, Trek applied its research data and design experience to the task and worked with its far eastern counterparts to produce a lightweight, durable bike that could go very fast.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

‍ What’s So Special about the Trek Alpha 1.1?

The Trek Alpha is now only available used, mainly on eBay or with some bike dealers who have a good consignment program.

The Alpha 1.1 was a Quality Build.

Even though the 1.1 was designed at Waterloo, Wisc (where Trek headquarters are located), the bike was not assembled inside the US. While many Americans prefer items produced in the good old US of A, the fact that Trek continued to use its factories in China and elsewhere isn’t necessarily wrong.

For years, Trek had depended on these builders to consistently produce many high-end premium road racers. Using these same workers meant that the bikes would likely show a high degree of excellence, precisely what Trek needed to combat an increasingly agitated riding community.

The frame was made from aluminum tubing with an attractive glossy finish. Even though carbon fiber was becoming all the rage for high-end performance bicycles, aluminum was a much cheaper resource. The primary benefit of an aluminum frame is that it provides excellent strength qualities while at the same time costing less, meaning that the bicycle price can be contained. Trek used its extensive racing research to push the aluminum frame to the limit, keeping the weight down while still holding onto the structural rigidity needed for most riders.

The folks at Trek must have felt pretty good about the frame because they offered a lifetime warranty with every purchase, which was virtually unheard of at the time.

The Trek Alpha 1.1 utilized the traditional H2 top-tube sloping, which is supposed to be the optimal riding position (according to Trek’s research). The steep upright angle of the tube enhances the rider's overall comfort, making it easier for cyclists to stay on task and enjoy the ride. The designers knew that the more comfortable the ride, the longer a cyclist would stay on their bike, which is precisely what the company wanted. The design shows how committed Trek folks were to fashioning a bike to appeal to a wide range of buyers.

Shimano Claris shifters and derailleurs provide the effective movement of gears when needed. Most bike reviews indicate the ride is soft, with no issues moving up and down hills through the gear ratios. While the eight gears might have been less than a professional racer would use, it is more than adequate for normal cycling. (The aluminum frame adds extra weight that might create issues for riders attacking inclines).

The wheels are Bontrager AT-750 double-walled alloy rims with 700c x 25 tires. The narrow tires lend themselves to increased speed and reliable handling when navigating corners.

Interestingly enough, the Bontrager is Trek’s primary tire supplier, and the tire is manufactured in Waterloo, Wisc. The Alpha 1.1 also has room for wider tires for additional grip on wet or muddy surfaces. There is also room for a rear rack or mudguards should their installation be necessary.

The shifter and rear brake cables are run alongside the downtube and provide effective braking and shifting. Most professional bikes run the cables inside the center tube to minimize wind drag and increase aerodynamics. However, the Alpha 1.1 seems content to run the brakes alongside the tubing rather than inside. (My preference is inside the tubing, as an integrated cable system, but this requires additional attention during the manufacturing process and increases the cost). Trek went with a parallel cable system to save dollars during the manufacturing process, and this is a win for the casual rider, who isn’t worried about shaving second off a stage time.

The seat is also a Bontrager Affinity which is soft enough to add comfort without discomfort on longer rides.

The Alpha 1.1 was the Least Expensive Bike Trek Made.

When it was introduced, the Alpha 1.1 was offered as the best value in bikes. Trek saw a need to create a market for new riders. By keeping the manufacturing costs to a minimum (including cheaper labor costs overseas), the company decided to pass those savings along to potential buyers.

The bike was priced well below the $500 mark, which made it easily affordable for most families. Now, the average American who felt the urge to channel their inner Lance Armstrong could have a bike similar to the Trek-Segafredo pro team used.

The Alpa 1.1 Performed Very Well

It didn’t take long for the researcher of the Alpha to discover that those who purchased the bike and rode it loved it. The reviews recognize that the short wheelbase made for a bike that was quick enough to chew up the pavement, handle well while cornering, and stay in control on the wet or less-than-perfect pavement.

The earliest renditions of the Alpha 1.1 had an aluminum fork and frame that tended not to dampen the bumps and jolts of imperfect road surfaces. While carbon forks and frames do a better job smoothing out the pavement, this complaint was not enough to make riders consider other models or take the Alpha off their list. However, the later model year Alpha (2017) shows a Trek carbon fork, which helped with some of the complaints about the ride. (Again, my preference here is to have an adjustable fork that allows the rider to quickly switch to suspension settings to handle rougher terrain, but this was something the folks at Trek were unwilling to do on their early road racers).

There have been some complaints as to the weight of the bike, but these were primarily complaints by riders who were used to riding a carbon-fiber frame. For these riders, the bike’s ride might seem chunky, particularly on steep inclines, where the additional weight can quickly come into play. Even though the bike may be harder to move uphill than other competing road bikes, the ride is just about what you might expect for its price point.

Why Did Trek Stop Making the Alpha 1.1?

For several years, the Trek Alpha 1.1 was a trendy bike for the company. Still, unfortunately, after the initial excitement for the bike wore off, Trek realized that buyers were flocking to other competitors producing better bikes. The emergence of smaller bike companies pushed Trek to drop Alpha 1.1 in favor of other lines, such as the FX series or the Emonda lineup.

At about the same time, Trek and Segafredo partnered to sponsor an International Racing Team. In 2022, the team has over 31 riders on the men’s side and 14 riders on the women's. The teams dominate the racing circuit and are almost always on the leaderboards.

Where Can I Purchase an Alpha 1.1?

Even though Trek still carries an image of the 1.1 on its website, the bike is not available to be shipped from the company. The only way to secure an Alpha 1.1 is through eBay, or another online site selling used bikes.

• A very reasonably priced entry-level bike
• The bike is well-made, with a lot of research behind it
• The company has an incredible resume in road racing
• Aluminum frame holds up well
• Perfect looking bike.
• No longer being made
• Trek losing ground to other competitors
• Click on Ebay to find out the latest price.

What kind of Bikes is Trek Making Now?

Even though Trek no longer produces the Alpha 1.1, the company still has a wide selection of bicycles for every discipline. The company makes a Marlin series, an excellent beginner bike for mountain and trail riding. Trek suggests the Edmonda series or the FX-1 for an entry-level bike for road riding. Trek also has a large selection of electric bikes. The FX+ is priced at around $2500, while the Domaine+ SLR retails for around $8500. which are not cheap but are great rides nonetheless. Here are some of our recommendations for the best bikes for entry-level riders in the Trek lineup.

• Entry Level Road/City Bike - FX 1
• Mountain Bike - Marlin 7
• Electric Bike - FX+
• Boy’s Bike - Roscoe 20
• Girl’s Bike - Wahoo 24

For more information on Trek bicycles, see the manufacturer’s website.

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How The Trek 1.1 Became A Super Affordable Entry-Level Road Bike

Table of Contents

• Price: $769
• Weight：10.0 kg
• Fork： Carbon
• Frame： Aluminium
• Wheels: 700c
• Drivetrain: 2 × 8
• Groupset： Claris
• Brakes: Rim

What we like about it: Fast, positive, confidence-inspiring, and fun. During the ride, I noticed less vibration transmitted through the forks into the handlebars, making it more enjoyable. The brakes worked well and required little effort to slow or stop the bike.

What we don’t like about it: Uncomfortable seat. My stock saddle has been replaced with one that is a bit more comfortable.

Trek uses the geometry that has been tested on the Pro Tour on every Trek road bike.

Buying a Trek 1.1 is choosing the most cost-effective ride quality! Performance = Ride Quality! It doesn’t matter what kind of kit is on the bike, the Trek 1.1 you pay for the same price is definitely more effortless and quicker to ride than any other brand of road bike in the same price range.

The Trek 1.1 aluminum road bike has the same aerodynamic shape and detailing as a high-end bike. The Trek 1.1 is sturdy, lightweight, and designed for zipping down the road.

With so many compliments, you can’t wait to learn about it, let’s get to know Trek 1.1 with our testers.

Main Features

Frame(4.6/5).

Aluminum alloy frames and components have been used throughout most of the history of the bicycle industry, but this does not mean that there is no possibility of continuous improvement and improvement.

For the Alpha Aluminum, Trek took the most complex metallurgy and pushed it to the limit—creating a strong, lightweight frame that delivers a riding experience that rivals many carbon frames.

The Trek 1.1 builds the frame with an Alpha Aluminum 100 Series for a more compliant frame, allowing the Trek 1.1 to maintain gold-hot acceleration performance at an affordable price.

With an Alpha Aluminum frame, you don’t have to think twice about hitting gravel trails or doing multi-day trips.

The Trek 1.1 will be an excellent companion for your vacation, travel, training, and competition.

The Trek 1.1’s Alpha Aluminum 100 Series frame features front and rear fender mounts designed for riders to ride in the rain and mud.

Geometry(4.7/5)

In Trek’s frame geometry, it is divided into “H1” and “H2”.

The H1 frame has a lower head tube and longer reach; the H2 frame has a higher head tube and a deeper depth.

Simply put, the H1 is suitable for aggressive riding positions, and the H2 is suitable for relatively comfortable, or durable riding positions.

Therefore, Trek 1.1 can also see its design logic with H2 geometry.

Components and Specifications

Drivetrain(4.5/5).

Trek 1.1 shifters use Shimano Claris, 8 speed, and both front and rear derailleurs use Shimano Claris.

Trek 1.1 Shimano Claris, 8-speed shifter Feel comfortable, ergonomically shaped, and with 2×8 speed road drivetrain compatibility, Shimano Claris dual levers provide accurate shifting and confident braking.

In our testers’ eyes, the durable and low-maintenance 8-speed drivetrain gives you the best gear range on a Trek 1.1 road bike.

Simple and intuitive dual control levers provide the Trek 1.1 with a comfortable ride.

Front and rear derailleurs

Our testers found the Shimano Claris rear derailleur on the Trek 1.1 to be a highlight.

Especially when shifting along with the flywheel into a more difficult-to-adjust gear during shifting, the shifting can also be precise and relatively sensitive.

When you and your buddies are conquering a steep hill or sprinting, it works perfectly under that load.

If you take these things into consideration, you’re in awe of the fact that the Trek 1.1 has a Shimano Claris rear derailleur.

One thing our testers also mentioned, however, is that we all know that the Shimano Claris is an 8-speed system, and the chain jumps between the gears a bit.

This puts pressure on the rear derailleur, and the details of smooth shifting are also something we need to pay attention to.

Dropping the chain from the large ring of the sprocket to the small ring is easy, but the reverse is not the same thing.

The Shimano Claris front derailleur pull-arm is much shorter than Shimano’s other pricier series. Our testers felt that it took a lot of effort to keep pushing the front derailleur to make a sustained shift.

It’s not a big problem, but in case of rain or cold winter weather, your fingers may not be able to control it very flexibly.

Trek 1.1 cranks are Vuelta Corsa, 50/34 (compact). Vuelta Corsa, 50/34 (compact) cranks are cold-forged and have a durable coating.

Chainrings with 110mm BCD compact steel. Gearing of 50T/34T, designed for indexed shifting. Shimano M371 cranks have good rigidity, durability, and lubrication after testing.

This product definitely met our testers’ expectations. Vuelta Corsa, 50/34 (compact) is also cheap.

The Trek 1.1 has a sprocket range of 11-28T, and the individual sprockets are precisely positioned relative to each other, ensuring the chain moves smoothly between the gears.

The Trek 1.1 uses a Sun Race CSR86, 8-speed cassette, and a net weight of 235 grams, which is very light.

In the eyes of our testers, the Sun Race brand cassette looked better than Shimano’s.

The Sun Race CSR86, 11-28, 8-speed shifts quickly and smoothly.

When we tested it violently, it was found that there was no excessive wear, which was also due to the good nickel-plated protective layer on the surface.

Pedals(4.4/5)

The Trek 1.1 pedals feature nylon composite treads, and the pedals themselves are fairly large.

The whole tread feels very comfortable. Nylon pedals are better than alloy pedals in terms of durability, more wear-resistant, and are less prone to deformation.

Fork (4.3/5)

Carbon fiber not only has the inherent characteristics of carbon materials but also has the soft processing properties of textile fibers. Its specific gravity is less than 1/4 that of steel, but its strength is very high, and its corrosion resistance is excellent.

The Trek 1.1 front fork uses a Trek carbon fiber road fork, which reduces the weight of the entire vehicle and can indirectly increase the speed. Moreover, the carbon fiber front fork has good elasticity and can absorb more vibrations from the ground.

Bottom Bracket(4.5/5)

Generally, cartridge bottom brackets have two main components. The cartridge itself consists of the sealed bearings and spindle and is usually threaded into your frame’s right (drive side). The lockring is threaded into the left (or non-drive) side of the frame, and it supports the opposite end of the cartridge.

Bottom brackets should be installed and left alone. A sealed unit is what’s popular because it does not require maintenance.

Headset(4.6/5)

Trek 1.1 only a small section of the headset can be seen from the appearance, and the size of the frame pipe diameter will be larger to cover the entire set of internal parts.

In addition, the lower bearing of the hidden head bowl needs to be selected according to the angle of the front fork.

The Trek 1.1 uses a headset with 1-1/8″ integrated, semi-cartridge bearings.

This headset is made from a quality aluminum alloy material that is anti-rust, sturdy, and durable. Fine machining ensures a sleek surface, and the headset fits perfectly.

Dust and water can be kept away by the cap thus extending the life of the device. Using this bicycle headset, you can prevent the bearing from over-abrasion and allow it to rotate freely.

The Trek 1.2 and Trek X-Caliber 6 use the same headset as the Trek 1.1.

Wheels(4.3/5)

Trek 1.1 wheels feature Alloy hubs; Bontrager AT-750 double-walled alloy rims.

The Bontrager AT-750 rims used on the Trek 1.1 are dual-wall rims. Bontrager AT-750 double-walled alloy rims generally have the best strength-to-weight ratio.

You’ll find it on most intermediate to pro-level bikes.

They have a huge performance advantage over single-wall rims, which our testers recommend for any level of riding.

The Trek 1.1 front and rear hubs use Alloy. The hub can be said to be the core component of the wheelset.

When you decide to build a wheelset, basically everyone will start with the hub to choose from.

Alloy’s focus is on smooth rolling and minimal loss of power. Trek 1.1 front and rear hubs are made of aluminum alloy.

The surface of aluminum is anodized, by immersing aluminum in a special solution, and then through a series of chemical reactions such as the electrolysis of water, a dense and solid oxide layer is formed on the aluminum.

The Trek 1.1 uses Bontrager T1, 700x25c tires with a super-strong nylon shell, 700mm outer diameter, and 25mm width.

The tire has an engineered tread design for confidence in wet or dry conditions.

The Bontrager T1 tread uses a durable compound for longer life. Our tester had a Trek 1.2 in hand, and the Bontrager T1 has always been our tester’s stock tire.

In addition to a flat tire, he ran 4,000 miles when he hit a chunk of steel, puncturing the tire and tube. Our testers patched the tubes and re-used the tires and are still using Bontrager T1 tires.

This shows how well the Bontrager T1 is used by our testers!

Trek 1.1 Spece

1. On this bike, what is the largest tyre size I can fit (in mm, e.g. 700x25C)?

Bontrager’s 700 x 25c tire is the largest tire we recommend for the 1.1. 

2. Is there a way to find the serial number on my bike?

Located beneath your cranks, your serial number begins with the letters “WTU” followed by a string of numbers and letters.

3. What is the number of gears on Trek 1. 1?

4. Can you tell me how much this bike weighs?

There is no need to worry about shipping since the 56 cm Domane AL 2 weighs 9.92 kg / 21.87 lbs.

Comparison table

Schwinn vantage f2 700c vs trek 1.1.

The Schwinn Vantage F2 700c is about $170 more expensive than the Trek 1.1.

The positioning of the two road cars is also different. The Schwinn Vantage F2 700c is more suitable for healthy riding, and many people will choose to ride the Schwinn Vantage F2 700c in their spare time to relieve stress. ( Who Are The People Who Still Insist On Cycling In The Summer? -Interesting Cycling Facts ) And Trek 1.1 is better for speed racing.

The Schwinn Vantage F2 700c fork is aluminum, and the Trek 1.1 is carbon fiber( Trek 1.2 fork also uses carbon fiber.).

As a racing car, Trek 1.1 chose a carbon fiber front fork, which is light in weight and strong in shock absorption.

Compared with carbon fiber, the aluminum alloy front fork has no advantage in weight, and the shock resistance is slightly weaker.

But for the Schwinn Vantage F2 700, which is usually used for healthy riding, it doesn’t matter much.

The Schwinn Vantage F2 700c uses a mechanical disc brake, which relies on the pull of the brake cable to rub the brake pads in the caliper and clamp the disc to produce a braking effect.

The disc brakes give me a solid feel, but I prefer, or rather get used to, the feedback I get from the pads hitting the rims on the Trek 1.1 rim brakes. And this kind of feedback is not found in the disc brake type.

Moreover, the rim brakes can also bring a light feel and good feedback when combined with excellent cable tubes and routing.

Acera, Tourney shifting kits are configured on the Schwinn Vantage F2 700c, which also reflects the positioning of the road bike – leisure, entertainment.

The Claris is one of the lower-end kits in Shimano’s lineup. It’s designed for light exercise, long rides, town cruising in casual clothing, shopping, and daily commutes.

But why use the Trek 1.1, a road bike positioned for speed competition? Our testers never understood the designer’s design logic.

Learn more: Schwinn 700c Prelude Road Bike Review

Fuji Jari 2.5 vs Trek 1.1

Unlike Trek 1.1, the Fuji Jari 2.5 is a bike that does a great job on gravel road bikes today.

The Fuji Jari 2.5 is equipped with a 1400-gram lightweight A6 aluminum alloy frame, but the surface of the Jari 2.5 only has a transparent coating material.

The Trek 1.1 has a carbon fiber fork, while the Fuji Jari 2.5 has a chrome-molybdenum fork.

The chrome-molybdenum steel frame is suitable for long-distance riding, especially long-distance road riding, which makes the Fuji Jari 2.5 very good for fine vibration damping on the road surface.

The chrome-molybdenum steel material itself is relatively elastic. When making the frame, because the material itself is better and more durable, the tube wall is usually thinner, resulting in greater elasticity.

The Fuji Jari 2.5 is not easy to get tired of riding, but the frame is soft, not suitable for competition, and not suitable for power.

Fuji’s exclusive parts manufacturer, Oval, specially designed the handlebar for the Jari Jari 2.5. It is made of 6061 aluminum alloy and has a drop distance of 125 mm between the upper and lower handlebars.

The handlebar position is quicker under normal riding posture, and it is also quite suitable for relatively small arms. People who are short or have a phobia of gripping.

There is a 25° flare angle in the lower handle position, which reduces wrist flexion in the lower handle position and reduces fatigue accumulation.

The Jari Jari 2.5 head tube angle ranges from 70.5° on the smallest frame size to 72° on the larger frame. The slack head tube angle is a setting biased towards gravel bikes. The chainstay length is 435mm for all frame sizes, which is 1cm longer than a typical cyclocross bike.

Vitus Razor vs Trek 1.1

The Vitus Razor is 1.0 kg lighter than the Trek 1.1. Other than that, the two cars are roughly like twin sisters.

Featuring an all-new modern 6061-T6 Double Butted Aluminium frame and full UD T-700 carbon fork, the Razor features a tapered frame to give you lightweight, speed, handling, and The perfect balance of comfort.

The Vitus Razor is equipped with Shimano’s efficient and reliable Claris R2000 8-S drivetrain, while the Trek 1.1 is paired with a Shimano Claris drivetrain.

The Vitus Razor has Tektro R317 rim brakes and Vitus 700c road wheels with elegant-looking Vee Road Runner 700c x 28 tires for great performance and grip in all conditions.

The Trek 1.1 features Alloy dual-pivot braking, a dual-pivot design that enables a lightweight, compact, and durable braking system. Dual-pivot caliper brakes have come a long way in reducing tolerances and deflections as well as durability.

Trek 1.1 achieves firm and immediate braking response while ensuring longer life. In addition, the durability of the brake pads has been increased by 100%, helping Trek 1.1 to enjoy highly responsive braking for longer periods of time.

Cervélo Caledonia 105 vs Trek 1.1

Cervélo Caledonia 105 is more than 4 times the price of Trek 1.1.

Cervélo Caledonia 105 starts from the tube shape, all the way to the design of aerodynamics, high stiffness, lightweight, etc., to meet the performance requirements of a competition-level road car.

In the eyes of our testers, the Cervélo Caledonia 105 is the nobility of road bikes.

Cervélo Caledonia 105’s internal cable routing solution, split spacers, U-shaped fork steerer, and other designs have been further optimized.

Not only is the system simple and beautiful, but it is also much lighter (save 200 grams) and meets the rider’s requirements for the fit range.

This simplicity is also far more than just aesthetics—it even affects how fast it rides, as nothing interferes with the airflow in the front end.

The Cervélo Caledonia 105 seat tube is cut to better wrap the rear wheel and effectively reduce wind resistance. Di2 fully internal routing handlebar design; shared with the s-series of the broken tube design, these are for the Cervélo Caledonia 105 ride aero performance considerations. Wow, really versatile.

Cervélo Caledonia 105 chainstays are designed to move down to effectively improve compliance. With a larger stack height and a shorter reach, the geometry is more relaxed.

In addition, the Cervélo Caledonia 105 uses Vittoria Zaffiro Pro V Folding G2.0 30c tires with a maximum tire size of 34 mm. These factors all add up to take into account its comfort.

Excited, our testers completely forgot about Trek 1.1’s merits and turned all their attention to the Cervélo Caledonia 105.

Comprehensive evaluation(4.4/5)

The Trek 1.1 is affordable and of good quality overall frame and components, making it a very good starter bike. Trek 1.1 shifts smoothly and easily when you get the hang of shifting. And the range of gears allows you to handle all types of hills well, even on short, steep trails.

It’s worth mentioning that you need to notice that the Trek 1.1’s fork transmits very little vibration to the handlebars, making it a lot more enjoyable to ride.

Learn more: Top 10 Best Road Bikes Under $1000 – Great Value For Money

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At a glance

Trek’s 1.1 is a great choice for road riding fun. It boasts Trek’s light, nimble-handling Alpha aluminum frame that has a slightly higher front end and elevated handlebars for comfort. To make the most of that increased comfort, this sweet road machine is equipped with easy-rolling Bontrager wheels and tires, powerful dual-pivot brakes for confidence and control, and a 16-speed drivetrain with a wide-range crankset for flying up the climbs. You’ll also appreciate the Bontrager saddle, bars, stem, and bar tape— touchpoints that balance performance and comfort.

Where To Buy

Specifications

• Fork Trek Carbon Road
• Hubs Bontrager alloy
• Chain SunRace CNM84
• Crank Vuelta Corsa
• Bottom Bracket Sealed cartridge, English thread
• Front Derailleur Shimano Claris
• Rear Derailleur Shimano Claris
• Saddle Bontrager Montrose Comp
• Headset 1-1/8-inch integrated, semi-cartridge bearings

Q: How much is a 2017 Trek 1.1?

A 2017 Trek 1.1 is typically priced around $770 USD when new. Be sure to shop around for the best price, and also look to the used market for a great deal.

Q: What size 2017 Trek 1.1 should I get?

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Trek 1.1 Road Bike

• Frame: Alpha White Aluminum
• Fork: Aluminum
• Wheels: Alloy hubs; Bontrager Approved alloy rims
• Tires: Bontrager Sport, 700x23c
• Shifters: Shimano 2300 STI, 8 speed
• USER REVIEWS

The frame is great value for money, and the components won't leave you feeling let down. The handling is good for beginners, not too snappy to make for a twitchy ride but still responsive enough to have lots of fun with- goes where you want it to. Frame reasonably comfortable for an alloy frame, and stiff enough for all but the most dedicated racers. Mudguard and rack mounts adds versatility.

Cheap finishing kit that could be upgraded to make the most of the frame- tyres are very susceptible to punctures and should be thrown away as soon as possible.

I've had my 2011 model for nearly 4 years, with about 15000miles put into it so far and I can't say I have any complaints about the quality of the frame. It is currently my only road bike so I do all of my general club riding, training and racing on it, and it's taken it all in its stride. I have replaced all of the moving parts on the machine as they have worn out (to be expected on a budget machine) but I still find the frame and forks to be comfortable enough, and although you can see some flex in the bottom bracket when putting in big efforts this shouldn't be a problem for the target market. The wheels are very strong, and are pretty much the same as the reputable shimano RS501 wheels used by many for training and winter use, and never needed truing for the 10000 miles they lasted. The jagwire cabling is also commended- the inners lasted for 3 years before replacement with not a great deal of stretch, and the outers are still in reasonable condition. However, the stock tyres punctured every 12 miles like clockwork, and were replaced after 3 rides to a pair that had no such issues. There is plenty of clearance for full length mudguards, which are great for general mile munching in temperate climates where rain is common- and the extra bosses for a rear rack add to the versatility of the bike, so you can use it for light touring if you wanted to. This is a great bike if you are thinking of getting into road bikes, as the frame is good enough to deserve upgrading with better components if your interest grows and you want better performing kit for racing or just for your own enjoyment. It would also serve as a very capable and racy winter training bike if you chose to upgrade to a new bike for the drier months or special events. I will certainly be keeping mine well into the future after purchasing a dedicated racing machine.

This is an EXCELLENT entry level bike! Emphasis on ENTRY LEVEL. I have put over 3000 miles on it, and am still able to honestly say money WELL spent, even though if I knew that I was going to put SO many miles on, I would have gone with a higher level bike! I was new to road biking. I had a Trek 820 MTB that I used on the local trails on rare occasion, but out of the blue, I have had several friends who randomly asked if I wanted to do some long rides. I wasn't sure how well I would take to road biking, but as a kid growing up in Iowa, RAGBRAI would come through my hometown a couple of times, and I always thought it would be cool to do something like that. So, I bought the 2010 Trek 1.1 as a graduation present to myself for finishing grad school, and what a gift to myself! After 3000 miles, I am ready for an upgrade, but the bike will stay in the family and go to my son when I finally save the cash to buy up on a better bike! In the 5 (or more) years that I had the Trek 820, I didn't put a total of 100 miles on it, and now I ride over 100 miles a WEEK during the riding season!

The factory seat was TERRIBLE. I got a $8.00 seat from Walmart that was 100x's better than what came with the bike. I now have a Serfas Gel Seat, and it is great. The Shimano 2300 components are a bit finicky on shifting, but it isn't a complete washout on them. This is still much more bike than I have ever owned, and I am enjoying it A LOT! 3000 miles, a lot!!! I am a big guy, when I bought the bike I was over 270lbs. I am now down to about 250. I did have to upgrade the back wheel to a 36 spoke count because I kept popping spokes on the 32 spoke that came with the bike. I popped 3-4 spokes in about the first 1000 miles, and since upgrading to the 36 spoke Velocity 105 compatible wheel, I haven't popped a SINGLE spoke. factory tire didn't last long... Have tried a few different tires and now have Continental Tires and love them, MUCH more durable!

If at purchase I knew that I was going to be putting on 3000 miles in the first year, I would have bought up a couple levels. However, I didn't know. That being said, this is a great bike! In high school, I had a Huffy 626. In college, I bought a cheap WalMart MTB that was trash. About 5 years ago, I bought the Trek 820 MTB which I still own and use when the kids ride along and I need to slow down to help them keep up! So, this is far and away, the fastest and lightest and nicest bike I have ever dreamed of owning. I never thought I would spend even $500 on a closeout bike without gagging on the thought of that much cash going into a BICYCLE!!! I never knew that there really was that much difference in bicycles. This experience has opened my eyes to a whole new world, and makes the city I live in, much more scenic and special place to live! This bike, more specifically, has helped me lose some weight and ride to support research for Breast Cancer, Multiple Sclerosis, Diabetes and other organizations! I would have NEVER thought that just over a year since the purchase, I would have over 3000 miles on a BIKE, but I do.

Similar Products Used:

I have ridden Giant Defy 3, Bianchi via Nirone, Specialized TriCross and a few others in the low to low/mid level. I really liked the shock absorption in the TriCross, but I was on a budget and opted for the 1.1. Giant Defy 3 was great, and if price was the same, would have gone with Giant Defy 3, but I was able to get a great deal on the 2010 1.1, in April 2011.

Vaule, quick handling/accelration, fairly versatile.

Entry level components

I got this 2010 bike used in July 2011, as an affordable bike for general recreation riding and running errands, with occasional overnight “light touring” trips. 800+ miles later it has served all those purposes well. The bike looked brand new, with no sign of previous use. It came with 2 left toe-clips, and a severally misadjusted from derailer; don’t know if this was Trek’s fault, the LBS where I got it, or the original owner. This is the “Compact“ version with 50/36 chain ring and a 8 speed 12-25 cassette. This is enough gearing for the type of riding I do. This is Trek’s entry level road bike, and you can see what they cut out to keep the price down. The Shimano 2300 derailers/shifters baulk sometimes but the drivetrain runs smooth once in gear. The brakes stop well enough but the need constant adjustment and oiling to keep one pad from dragging after release. And the original saddle was an ass-hatchet (I replaced it.) The bike has braze-ons for fenders but I use the extra frame room to mount bigger tires. The bike came with 700C x 23 mm, but I run a 28mm in the back most of the time, and 32mm back/28mm front for long trips. The 32 mms just barely clear the seat post, and mounting anything bigger than 23mm requires a little force to get them past the brake calipers. I have also run this bike on dirt roads/trails with 20 year old rusted steel wheels and 27” x 1¼” (630mm x 32mm) treaded tires (to avoid damage to the 32 spoke wheels the bike came with.) The old rear wheel has 6 sprockets, and with a little adjustment I can get the 8 speed shifters to work with it. The bike accelerates and changes direction quickly, especially with the skinny tires. It rides comfortably with the thicker tires. It tracks straight when riding with no-hands. And I’ve carried 20 lbs on the rear rack with ease. You can get a nicer bike by spending more money. But so far this bike has been fun, reliable and a good value.

1982 Ross Grand Tour

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New to road cycling, upgrades to Trek 1.1?

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hello everyone, im new around here and id like to know what are some basic upgrades that could be done to the Trek 1.1, i mainly will be riding just for exercise. any 1.1 owners around here? 1.1 - Trek Bicycle thanx.  

You could upgrade the wheels. You could upgrade the tires. You could upgrade the saddle. You could upgrade the seatpost. You could upgrade the handlebar. You could upgrade the stem. You could upgrade the brakes. You could upgrade the shifters. You could upgrade the crank. You could upgrade the derailleurs. You could upgrade the cassette. You could upgrade the frame. You could upgrade to a different bike.  

tlg, in his inimitable way, is asking, -why do you want to upgrade? -is there something you don't like about the bike? -what do you expect to accomplish by upgrading? I will add: -you could (should) upgrade your legs, lungs and cardio-vascular system, by riding. If you're new to this, you have no way to determine whether this bike has some shortcoming for you. It's a perfectly fine bike to ride. After you've ridden a lot, you may decide something needs changing. Don't succomb prematurely to upgrade fever. It's about the riding, not the bike, not the parts.  

I agree. Upgrade the engine first, and you'll have a better understanding of the limits of the chassis and transmission. If your rear end is happy on the Buttraper Affinity saddle, don't change anything right now. If it's hurting you as much as it did me, look around for something else.  

upgrading bikes is really a much more expensive way of buying the bike you originally wanted. the parts - and don't forget the labor in some instances - to get all this goodness on your bike is usually not an effective way to step up. if you just got a bike, you have a lot of improving to do. The goods news is that if you stick with it, you'll see results quickly. riding up grades is better than making upgrades. that said, your bike needs to be fit, you need a pair of bibs so your ass wont hurt and you could probably benefit from ditching goofy sneakers and going with a pair of clip ins. everything else? don't. your bike will either become a clothes hanger by September, or you will be hooked and be back in a few months for bike two; armed with a whole bunch of knowledge from nonsensical threads like this one. enjoy! and don't t-bone SUV's like the other guy who posted here earlier.  

I think upgrades for the sake of upgrades are pointless, materialistic, and represent the worst parts of this sport. On the other hand, it's worth a fair amount to me to have my bike fit my body well, and I'm a sucker for fancy tires. I also prefer to use cycling shoes and clipless pedals. How long have you had it?  

Oops, also should mention I find a certain amount of gadgetry to be useful for what I'm trying to do with cycling lately.  

Agree with "all of the above" (especially JCavilia because he nails it). In addition, my suggestions would be: 1) If you haven't already done so, or there are fit deficiencies, get a proper (standard) fitting. 2) Ensure that your gearing matches your terrain and fitness. 3) Learn about the importance of maintaining proper cadence and smoothing the pedal stroke. 4) Consider quality tires. OE tires seldom are (25c's are my preference). 5) Experiment with tire pressures. #1 will make you more comfortable which in turns will likely up your performance which makes you want to ride more - at least it does with me. #2 & 3 will help you maintain adequate cadence (especially on climbs) which will save the knees and keep you feeling fresher, longer. #4 & 5 will improve ride quality, which will quell some road buzz and make you more comfortable on the bike.  

My brother just got a 2014 1.1 late last year and is enjoying it a lot. The carbon fork and "no thumb-shifting" are good upgrades to previous versions of the 1.1. As for upgrades, consider tires and possibly wheels. The OEM tires and wheels on the 1.1 are heavy, which means slower acceleration among other things. And if you ever decide to get a new bike, you can always put your "upgrade" tires and wheels on the new bike and put the 1.1 back to stock. While not a bike mod per se, your contact points (i.e. hands, rear end and feet) are important areas of consideration. A quality bike short (perhaps bib shorts) should be a purchase in the very near future if you don't already have a pair. Similarly, upgrading to clipless pedals and shoes is a big upgrade that you'll see immediate benefits from. And like tires and wheels, pedals and shoes can be swapped to new bikes in the future. Good luck to you and enjoy your 1.1.  

I would start with a decent bike computer, clipless pedals, bag or two, water bottle and cage or two, and temporary fenders. Regarding components, you have to decide what you don't like. Good news is you can do it piecemeal. Bad news is you can triple (or more) the original cost of the bike.  

Second this altho fenders can be foregone until wet weather. saddle bag or "gas tank" bag to put multi-tool, tire levers, patch kit, spare tube, CO2. can also get a small pump that uses the water cage mounts. Since you intend the bike for fitness, weight aint a issue. Also recommend some sort of mirror. and HIGHLY recommend a rear blinky light and some headlight for late afternoon/dusk riding. That Trek 1.1 is a good bike. No need to change anything on it unless it breaks or gets worn out.  

you said it was primarily for exercise....forget upgrades. Take the bike and have a good fit done. Then ride it until your fitness and skills says it is time for a new bike. Do not make the mistakes I made and spend money on upgrades that really do nothing to improve your fitness or riding skills.  

Like others said, I would just upgrade things you don't like, or things to make the bike more comfy. The only thing I changed on my bike was the saddle and tires. The saddle was for comfort on long rides, and the tires were so I wouldn't wear out the CX tires that came with it on the road. I opted for a tire that would be resistant to flats. IMO that's a great type of upgrade. Shifters, wheels, etc...those you can upgrade as you need to replace, but at that time you may want to just upgrade the new bike. You're always gonna come out dollars ahead buying the higher level bike to begin with.  

I've got an upgraded Trek 1.1. I was looking for a cheap aluminum frame to hang my existing parts on while I saved for my new CX rig. I wasn't too keen on any framesets out there when I spotted a 1.1 at the local shop. Good looking frame and the geo fit me great. So I bought one and sold off all the parts. Made back most of the initial cost and the frame ended up costing me about $200. Which was a good bit cheaper than other framesets out there. The bike is now sporting a SRAM Rival group, Mavic Cosmic Elite wheel set, with Bontrager and Ritchey parts for the cockpit. The bike came out fantastic. It's fairly light and rides really well. It has room for large tires and I've used it for a 100 mile mixed road/gravel race down here called the Rouge Roubaix. It was comfortable for 6 hours in the saddle and didn't skip a beat. View attachment 297743  

Attachments

I have a Trek 1.1. It's a fine entry level bike. The only upgrade I've done is replacing the stock toe clip pedals with clipless pedals. I also bought a Cateye bike computer, bottle cages, pump and saddle bag. I only have time to ride on the weekends during the late spring, summer and early fall months... so the 1.1 is perfect. One of these days I may buy a Trek Domane... but for now, I'm satisfied with the 1.1.  

I also have a 2010. Put over 4 k on that bike in the first two years I had it and other than better tires and bar tape, I didn't change anything. There really was not a need to. BTW, don't know if I just kept it dialed in well but that 2300 group set was bullet proof. Never hung up. Never skipped a gear. To the OP. Just enjoy riding it. Save your money for the next bike (n+1). What you have is fine and there is quite a bit of satisfaction to be had when you train hard and are able to drop guys riding more expensive bikes. Cheers.  

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The 1.2 is the middle of Trek's three 1 Series aluminium road bikes, sitting between the Shimano Claris-equipped 1.1 (£575) and the 1.5 (£750), which comes with Shimano Tiagra components.

Is it the right bike for you? We've picked out four reasons why it might be, along with a reason that might make you think twice.

1 It provides solid performance with few surprises

The 1.2 puts in a solid performance out on the road, offering a stable, predictable ride, the only real disappointment being the lack of braking power (see below).

Hitting the scales at 9.48kg (20.9lb), the 1.2 isn't as lively as many lighter bikes, but for £650 this is certainly a decent enough weight. Compared to bikes of a similar price, it accelerates well. You'll find a little more flex in the frame and fork than in higher level models in Trek's range, but this is a bike that's well capable of holding its own when you crank up the power.

You could't say that the 1.2 is the fastest climber but it's far from sluggish when things get lumpy. It's helped in its hill-climbing endeavours by a compact chainset (with 50-tooth and 34-tooth chainrings rather than 52 or 53 and 39). Most bikes of this price come with something similar these days. Matched up to an 11-28-tooth cassette, it'll allow you to get up the vast majority of gradients without your knees popping or your lungs bursting, while still providing enough big gears to keep you bowling along quickly on the flat and downhill.

Aluminium frames have a reputation for feeling harsh but that's a gross generalisation. Some are jarring – as some carbon frames are – but plenty aren't. This bike is certainly comfortable enough for racking up the big miles.

For a start, it comes in Trek's H2 fit. That requires a brief explanation. Compared to Trek's H1 fit, H2 has a taller head tube: 3cm taller in the case of our 58cm test model. Why? It puts you into a more upright riding position with less strain on your lower back and neck. You could achieve a similar position by adding a bunch of headset spacers on an H1 bike, but if you want your bars at that height, you're better off going for an H2 fit because the front end will be stiffer and the handling will be better.

The Bontrager Race VR-C alloy handlebar has a shallower drop than usual too: 124mm rather than the 145mm you get on Bontrager's Race Lite Classic, for example. That means it's that much easier to get down on the drops. A lot of people have a bar with a deep drop and rarely take their hands off the hoods.

The other reason for the comfort is that the 1.2 is inherently pretty smooth. Sure, there are plenty of bikes out there that will filter our more road vibration but this one does a decent enough job on that front. Swapping the 23mm tyres for 25s would add more comfort but this bike isn't crying out for them by any means.

The Bontrager Gel Cork bar tape provides good cushioning for your hands and the Bontrager Affinity 1 saddle has plenty of padding too. Truth be told, I found it a little too soft, verging on squidgy, but everyone has their own taste when it comes to saddles.

2 You get a neat, well-proven frame and fork

All three bikes in the 1 Series share the same 100 Series Alpha Aluminium frame. It's fairly busy looking with a squared off upper edge to the down tube that makes it resemble that of Trek's more costly Madone.

The top tube slopes towards the seat tube junction and tapers down as it does so, and slim seatstays provide compliance at the back.

You get mounts for a mudguard and a rack back there too. They'll be useful if you want to ride the bike year round and perhaps carry stuff to and from work on a daily commute.

You don't get the oversized bottom bracket or tapered head tube that are regular features designed to add stiffness to higher-end performance bikes, but this is a £650 bike and the frame is good for the money. The welds are pretty tidy throughout and the same can be said of the paint job.

The fork is Trek's own with carbon blades and an alloy steerer. Like the frame, it comes with eyelets for fitting mudguards that will save a lot of faffing.

It's worth noting that the Trek 1.2 is available in eight sizes from 47cm up to 62cm. That range will cover nearly everyone.

3 Shimano's Sora shifters and mechs are excellent for the money

Nine-speed Sora is Shimano's fifth tier road groupset (if you don't count the electronic variants) and it offers fantastic value for money.

Back in the olden days (before last year), you changed gear on Sora by pushing the brake lever to the side or by using a small thumb lever on the side of the shifter body, depending on the direction you wanted to shift.

Now, though, Sora levers are Dual Control, so instead of that thumb lever, there's a lever tucked behind the brake lever. It's the same design that Shimano use right up to top-level Dura-Ace and it's a big improvement, making it far easier to change gear from the drops.

Resting your hands on the hoods is comfortable and there's a little gear indicator on the top of each of the levers that you might find useful. I can't say I ever checked them – I just couldn't get into the habit – but they're there if you want to.

Whereas the gear cables run underneath the bar tape on Shimano's higher level groupsets, they head out from the side of the levers with Sora and loop around to the frame in the fresh air. That's certainly not a problem from a functional point of view, although visually it's a less tidy way of doing things. That's being picky, though. Sora shifting has taken a massive leap forward with this latest design. It works very much like the highest level offerings from Shimano, just adding a little weight. Even there, the difference isn't massive.

Trek don't give you a complete Sora groupset here, just the shifters and mechs. The chainset is FSA Vero, a square taper design that does its job just fine, and the brakes, as mentioned, are unbranded.

Most other big brand bikes at this price, such as the Giant Defy 3 (£649) and the Felt F95 (£649), have Shimano Sora components too. It's worth comparing the spec sheets to see exactly how they match up, but don't buy a bike solely on that basis.

4 Bontrager's wheels and other components are good, reliable kit

The wheels are made up from Bontrager's own alloy hubs, containing cup and cone (rather than cartridge) bearings, and Tubeless Ready http://www.bontrager.com/technology/why_tubeless_ready rims. That means you can run the wheels without inner tubes at some point in the future, although you'll need to upgrade to Tubeless Ready tyres first.

The tyres that come fitted as standard are Bontrager's T1s (700 x 23). They're some pretty hefty rubber, made for durability rather than all-out speed, but they're reasonably resistant to punctures and they hold the road well even in damp conditions.

I had no problems at all with the wheels during the month-long test period. They're not the lightest wheels ever, taking some coaxing up to speed, but they're still as round and as true as they were out of the box, and there's a lot to be said for trouble-free operation. Fast wheels aren't so fast when you're standing on the side of the road trying to remove a broken spoke.

Most of the rest of the kit is no-nonsense stuff from Bontrager too, the handlebar, stem and seatpost being reliable alloy options and the Affinity 1 saddle providing at least as much cushioning as most people will want.

And the compromises

There are no two ways about it, the 1.2's brakes are disappointing. Trek have put the Shimano Sora theme to one side here and specced nameless dual pivot callipers that lack bite. Don't get me wrong, they're consistent and they'll stop you, just not as quickly as you might like. You have to engage the brakes for a bit longer than normal or pull the levers a bit harder to get down to your desired speed.

You adjust to this within a ride or two and don't really think about it until you ride with people who have better brakes on their bikes, or jump back on to a bike with better brakes yourself. Then you're struck by the contrast.

Swapping the brake pads helps, but the bottom line is that these brakes are a compromise to make a price point and, for me, they're the weakest aspect of the entire bike.

Other compromises? There's nothing that really stands out. Trek offer a decent all-round package here.

The Trek 1.2 is a very good bike for the money. The frame and fork are sound, reliable options and the Sora shifters and mechs are better than anything previously available for this kind of cash. They're a great example of the benefits of trickle down technology.

Yes, if you pay a couple of hundred pounds more you'll get a lighter bike that leaps into life more eagerly when you up the intensity for a sprint or tough climb, but that's always the way. As it is, the Trek 1.2 is a very able road bike that'll reward your efforts with decent speed, and it's comfortable enough to ride all day long. The fact that it comes with mudguard and rack eyelets increases its versatility, so you can use it as a year-round workhorse if that's what you're after.

We'd have no hesitation recommending this bike for someone after their first proper road bike, or for anyone else looking for plenty of value.

Very good value, ideal for anyone looking for a first real road bike, with just the brakes as a low point

road.cc test report

Make and model: Trek 1.2

Size tested: 58

About the bike

State the frame and fork material and method of construction. List the components used to build up the bike.

Frame 100 Series Alpha Aluminium

Fork Trek carbon road

Sizes 47, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm

Front hub Bontrager alloy

Rear hub Bontrager alloy

Rims Bontrager Tubeless Ready

Tyres Bontrager T1, 700x23c

Shifters Shimano Sora, 9 speed

Front derailleur Shimano Sora

Rear derailleur Shimano Sora

Crank FSA Vero, 50/39/30 (triple)

Cassette SRAM PG-950, 11-28, 9 speed

Pedals Nylon body w/alloy cage, toe-clip/strap

Chain KMC X9

Bontrager Affinity 1

Seatpost Bontrager Alloy, 2-bolt head, 27.2mm, 8mm offset

Handlebar Bontrager Race, VR-C, 31.8mm

Stem Bontrager Elite Blendr, w/computer & light mounts, 31.8mm, 7 degree

Headset 1-1/8" semi-cartridge bearings

Brakeset Alloy dual-pivot

Accessories

Bar tape Bontrager gel cork tape

Tell us what the bike is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about the bike?

Trek say: "1 Series aluminium road bikes feature the same aero shaping and race-ready detail as our top-end bikes. They're strong, light, and built to fly over the pavement," [Trek, being from the US, use "pavement" to mean the surface of a road rather than a path].

Frame and fork

Tell us about the build quality and finish of the frame and fork?

It's a tried and tested frame built to a high quality. The same goes for the carbon leg/alloy steerer fork.

Tell us about the materials used in the frame and fork?

The frame is made from aluminium: what Trek call 100 Series Alpha Aluminium.

Tell us about the geometry of the frame and fork?

The 1.2 is built to Trek's H2 geometry that I've explained in the body of the review. Essentially, it's slightly more relaxed than a full-on aggressive race position, but it's still speed orientated.

How was the bike in terms of height and reach? How did it compare to other bikes of the same stated size?

It's a little taller at the front end than a traditional low and stretched road bike.

Riding the bike

Was the bike comfortable to ride? Tell us how you felt about the ride quality.

I found it comfortable both in terms of ride position and ride quality. It's certainly a long way from being a bone shaker.

Did the bike feel stiff in the right places? Did any part of the bike feel too stiff or too flexible?

It's not mega-stiff but it's not too flexy either.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's comfort? would you recommend any changes?

I found the saddle a touch too squidgy for my taste, but I'd rather that than too firm.

In all of these marks, I'm comparing the bike to similarly priced alternatives.

The drivetrain

Wheels and tyres, your summary.

Did you enjoy riding the bike? Yes.

Would you consider buying the bike? It would certainly be on my shortlist if I was after a bike at about this price.

Would you recommend the bike to a friend? I'd recommend it should be on their shortlist too.

Anything further to say about the bike in conclusion?

Nearly all big brand bikes at this price have these features: aluminium frame, fork with carbon legs and alloy steerer, an incomplete Shimano Sora groupset (chainset and brakes being the most frequent omissions), in-house aluminium handlebar, stem and seatpost. If you simply compare spec lists, you'll see that the 1.2 comes out better than some and not quite as well as others.

However, we'd caution against making a decision based solely on a comparison of spec sheets. We've not reviewed all of the 1.2's chief rivals, but we can tell you that this bike will provide you with a very good all-round performance, the brakes being the only real low point.

Overall rating: 8 /10

About the tester

Age: 43   Height: 190cm   Weight: 75kg

I usually ride:    My best bike is:

I've been riding for: Over 20 years   I ride: Most days   I would class myself as: Expert

I regularly do the following types of riding: commuting, club rides, sportives, general fitness riding,

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Mat has been in cycling media since 1996, on titles including BikeRadar, Total Bike, Total Mountain Bike, What Mountain Bike and Mountain Biking UK, and he has been editor of 220 Triathlon and Cycling Plus. Mat has been road.cc technical editor for over a decade, testing bikes, fettling the latest kit, and trying out the most up-to-the-minute clothing. We send him off around the world to get all the news from launches and shows too. He has won his category in Ironman UK 70.3 and finished on the podium in both marathons he has run. Mat is a Cambridge graduate who did a post-grad in magazine journalism, and he is a winner of the Cycling Media Award for Specialist Online Writer. Now over 50, he's riding road and gravel bikes most days for fun and fitness rather than training for competitions.

Add new comment

13 comments.

I'm riding this bike now for over 6 years. Inexpensive when bought for  €600. Needed maintenance about 2 years ago which was about €400 (new wheelset, cassette/chain/cabling etc). I've replaced the 700x23-tyres by 700x25-tyres a long time ago without changing anything else. Works like a charm.

Great value for the money but brakes could indeed be better. Meanwhile looking to add a new bike (and use this one solely on the Tacx) with disc-brakes.

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The current Trek 1 Series bikes have plenty of clearance for fixed mudguards, even with a 25mm tyre. The 2013 1.2 had little clearance, and this was because Trek used the 2 series frame for that particular year. I'm guessing evo_playa has one of these. Agree that SKS Raceblade Long guards are great. The lack of availability is due to a redesign - SKS are developing the new version to allow for bikes with disc brakes. I gather they won't be available until this autumn at the earliest. UK distributors sold out of the old versions months ago.

Seems like a comparable spec and set up to other value bikes. Agree that even low spec bikes are good and has recently made me question my prior choice of 105 or nothing. Anyone know if Claris is any good ? Always found the Trek styling a bit bland but this one looks ok. The latest B twin road bikes seem anazing value if your in the market for a new bike. www.tinpony.co.uk/shop

Tin Pony wrote: Seems like a comparable spec and set up to other value bikes. Agree that even low spec bikes are good and has recently made me question my prior choice of 105 or nothing. Anyone know if Claris is any good ? Always found the Trek styling a bit bland but this one looks ok. The latest B twin road bikes seem anazing value if your in the market for a new bike. www.tinpony.co.uk/shop

The 8 speed Sora front and rear Derailleurs on my Trek are long since worn out and were replaced with Claris just before the winter kicked in. It works really smooth with no problems - even on the old Sora shifters with thumb button.

I've had the 2011 1.1 with shimano 2300 (remember that?) for just over 4 years now, and it certainly scrubs up well. Even with just 2300 and a different wheelset I've raced on it for a couple of years to some success, it certainly doesn't feel like it holds me back, which is very impressive for such a cheap machine. In fact, I like it enough to complete the change to 5700 groupset in the spring.

I can't say I ever had a problem with the brake calipers, and I can't tell the difference between the alloy calipers and the Shimano long drop calipers having swapped them out- they are certainly good enough.

However, I'm not a fan of the H2 fit with the massive head tube- I hate long head tubes and was lucky to get mine before they were introduced.

Excellent winter trainer and commuter. My 2007 Trek 1.2 is still going strong - it's had a few minor changes but still has the Sora 8 speed with thumb button - oh and a pannier rack!

It's still a lovely bike to ride and recommended first road bike.

Not a racing bike. Sit up and beg.

WHY wouldn't they put sensible 25mm tyres on the bike?

Mike T. wrote: WHY wouldn't they put sensible 25mm tyres on the bike?

Quite. I can't really understand why they'd have clearances so tight, seems unecessary. It may be that 25mm tyres would work with some mudguards already mentioned, but probably not full guards that also help keep crud off the chainset especially in winter.

Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets.

Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

craigr wrote: Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets. Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

As ever, SKS Raceblade Longs. Sorted.

KiwiMike wrote: craigr wrote: Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets. Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

Tried quite a few including SKS chromeplastic ones.

edit: tracked them down, looks like instock here : http://www.tredz.co.uk/.SKS-Race-Blade-Long-Mudguard-Set_51833.htm

Fairly simple and inexpensive to swap out the substandard brake calipers.

I upgraded my Trek 1.1 to Shimano non series long drop brake calipers and the difference in braking was amazing.

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• Rider Notes

2016 Trek 1.1 H2 Compact

An aluminum frame race bike with mid-range components and rim brakes.

For This Bike

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A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

1.1 H2 Compact

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Do you have this bike? Help other riders make a decision about which size will work for them by sharing your own size and fit notes. Report your fit

May 2017 · Rupert Radley

The Trek 1.1 is Trek's bottom rung road bike, but that doesn't mean budget ride quality

Comfortable ride

Carbon fork

Tubeless ready wheels

Pannier rack/mudguard compatible

Brakes could be better

Read Review

Last updated June 29 Not listed for 2,485 days