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Expert Tips for GMC Safari Fuel Pump Replacement

Introducing the GMC Safari Fuel Pump Replacement: Tips and Tricks Welcome to Mechanics News, your go-to source for the latest updates in the world of mechanics. In our upcoming article, we’ll delve into the crucial topic of GMC Safari fuel pump replacement. Whether you’re a seasoned mechanic or a DIY enthusiast, this guide will provide invaluable tips and tricks to ensure a smooth and successful replacement process. Stay tuned as we explore the ins and outs of this essential maintenance task for GMC Safari owners. Don’t miss out on this informative piece that will help you keep your vehicle running efficiently.

Fuel Pump Replacement: Tips and Tricks

Understanding the symptoms of a failing fuel pump.

When it comes to replacing the fuel pump in your GMC Safari, it’s necessary to first identify the signs of a failing pump. Some common symptoms include engine sputtering, difficulty starting the vehicle, decreased power and acceleration, and sudden changes in fuel efficiency. It’s important to address these issues promptly to avoid any potential breakdowns or damage to your vehicle.

Gathering the Necessary Tools and Equipment

Before you begin the fuel pump replacement process, make sure you have all the required tools and equipment at hand. This typically includes a socket wrench set, a fuel line disconnect tool , a rubber mallet, a new fuel pump unit, and safety gloves. Additionally, it’s important to have a fire extinguisher nearby as a precautionary measure.

Following the Manufacturer’s Instructions

Every vehicle model may have different specifications when it comes to fuel pump replacement. Therefore, it’s crucial to consult your GMC Safari’s owner’s manual or manufacturer’s instructions for the correct procedure. Following these guidelines will ensure that the replacement is done correctly and safely.

Preparing the Vehicle and Ensuring Safety

Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal to avoid any electrical mishaps. Then, relieve the fuel pressure from the system by removing the fuel pump relay or fuse and running the engine until it stalls. Be cautious while working with flammable materials and ensure proper ventilation. Keeping a fire extinguisher nearby and wearing safety goggles and gloves is strongly recommended.

Step-by-Step Fuel Pump Replacement Process

The fuel pump replacement process typically involves accessing the fuel tank, disconnecting the fuel lines and electrical connections, removing the old fuel pump unit, and installing the new one. It’s important to work carefully and methodically, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Additionally, take note of any specific tips or tricks mentioned in the manual that may make the process easier and more efficient.

By following these tips and understanding the process of fuel pump replacement in your GMC Safari, you can ensure a successful and smooth procedure. However, if you’re unsure about any step or encounter difficulties, it’s always recommended to seek professional assistance to avoid further complications.

Machine fanatics ask

What are the signs that indicate a faulty fuel pump in a gmc safari.

A faulty fuel pump in a GMC Safari can cause various issues that can be indicative of its malfunction. Some signs to look out for include:

1. Engine sputtering: If the fuel pump is failing, it may not provide a consistent supply of fuel to the engine, leading to a sputtering or jerking motion while driving.

2. Difficulty starting: A faulty fuel pump may struggle to deliver adequate fuel pressure to the engine, resulting in difficulty starting the vehicle or requiring multiple attempts before the engine starts.

3. Engine stalling: Insufficient fuel supply can cause the engine to stall unexpectedly, especially when driving uphill or at higher speeds.

4. Loss of power: The engine may experience a significant loss of power or hesitation during acceleration due to inadequate fuel delivery.

5. Inconsistent fuel gauge readings: A faulty fuel pump can affect the accuracy of the fuel gauge, causing it to fluctuate or give inaccurate readings.

6. Excessive noise: A failing fuel pump may produce unusual whining or buzzing noises, primarily heard from the fuel tank area.

If you experience any of these signs, it is advisable to have your GMC Safari inspected by a qualified mechanic to diagnose and address any issues with the fuel pump.

How often should the fuel pump in a GMC Safari be replaced?

In the context of Popular Mechanics Magazine, the fuel pump replacement interval for a GMC Safari can vary depending on several factors.

The fuel pump in a GMC Safari is typically designed to last for many years. However, its lifespan can be influenced by various factors such as the quality of fuel used, driving conditions, and maintenance practices.

As a general guideline, it is recommended to inspect the fuel pump and its related components during routine vehicle maintenance. This includes checking for any signs of leaks, unusual noises, or a decrease in fuel efficiency. If any issues are detected, it is advisable to have the fuel pump inspected by a qualified mechanic.

There is no specific mileage or time frame mentioned by the manufacturer for replacing the fuel pump in a GMC Safari. Instead, it is important to pay attention to any signs of potential problems and address them promptly to prevent any further damage or breakdowns.

In conclusion, while there is no set interval for fuel pump replacement in a GMC Safari, regularly inspecting and maintaining the fuel system can help ensure its longevity and optimal performance.

Can I replace the fuel pump in my GMC Safari myself, or is it better to take it to a professional mechanic?

If you have some experience working on cars and are comfortable with basic mechanical tasks, you can potentially replace the fuel pump in your GMC Safari yourself. However, keep in mind that replacing a fuel pump can be a complex job and may require special tools, so it’s important to assess your own skills and capabilities before attempting the repair.

Before starting the job, consult your vehicle’s service manual or a trusted online resource to understand the specific steps and procedures involved in replacing the fuel pump. This will help you prepare for the task and ensure you have all the necessary tools and replacement parts.

Replacing a fuel pump generally involves removing the fuel tank, disconnecting the electrical connections, disconnecting the fuel lines, and removing the old pump assembly. Then, you’ll need to install the new fuel pump and reassemble everything, making sure to follow the proper torque specifications and safety measures.

If you’re uncertain about your abilities or if you don’t have the necessary tools, it may be best to take your GMC Safari to a professional mechanic. They have the experience, expertise, and specialized equipment to complete the fuel pump replacement safely and efficiently. Additionally, a professional mechanic can diagnose any other potential issues related to the fuel system and address them accordingly.

Ultimately, the decision to replace the fuel pump yourself or take it to a professional depends on your personal skills, resources, time availability, and comfort level with tackling such repairs . But regardless of who performs the job, it’s crucial to ensure the fuel pump replacement is done correctly to maintain the optimal performance and safety of your vehicle.

What are some tips for replacing the fuel pump in a GMC Safari to ensure a successful installation?

Replacing the fuel pump in a GMC Safari: Tips for a successful installation

1. Prepare the necessary tools: Before starting the replacement process, gather the required tools such as a socket set, fuel line disconnect tools, a fuel pressure gauge, and a replacement fuel pump assembly.

2. Relieve fuel system pressure: To avoid fuel spray and potential hazards, relieve the fuel system pressure before attempting to remove the old fuel pump. Locate the fuel pump fuse or relay in the fuse box and disconnect it to stop the fuel pump from running. Start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls to release any remaining pressure.

3. Disconnect the battery: It’s crucial to disconnect the vehicle’s battery to prevent any potential electrical hazards during the installation process. Remove the negative terminal to ensure safety.

4. Access the fuel pump: The fuel pump assembly is typically located inside the fuel tank. To access it, you may need to remove the fuel tank entirely or partially. Refer to your GMC Safari’s specific model and consult the vehicle’s manual for detailed instructions.

5. Remove the old fuel pump: Disconnect the electrical connectors and fuel lines attached to the old fuel pump. Use fuel line disconnect tools, if necessary, to separate the fuel lines. Then, remove any retaining straps or bolts securing the fuel pump assembly to the tank.

6. Clean the fuel tank: Before installing the new fuel pump, take the opportunity to clean the inside of the fuel tank. Remove any debris, dirt, or rust that may have accumulated over time. This will help ensure proper fuel flow and prevent potential issues in the future.

7. Install the new fuel pump: Place the new fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank, aligning it properly with the mounting points. Reattach any retaining straps or bolts, making sure they are secure. Connect the electrical connectors and fuel lines to the new fuel pump assembly, ensuring a tight and leak-free connection.

8. Reconnect the battery and test: Once the new fuel pump is installed, reconnect the vehicle’s battery. Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position without starting the engine. This will allow the fuel pump to build pressure within the system. Check for any leaks and verify that the fuel pressure gauge indicates the correct pressure for your GMC Safari model.

9. Secure all components: After confirming proper installation and functionality of the new fuel pump, securely fasten the fuel tank or any other components that were removed during the process.

10. Test drive and monitor: Take your GMC Safari for a test drive to ensure the fuel pump is operating correctly. Monitor the vehicle for any abnormal behavior, such as fuel delivery issues or unusual noises.

Remember, if you encounter any difficulties or uncertainties during the fuel pump replacement process, it’s best to consult a professional mechanic or refer to a reputable repair manual for specific guidelines tailored to your GMC Safari model.

Are there any recommended aftermarket fuel pump brands for GMC Safari that offer better performance and reliability compared to OEM options?

When it comes to aftermarket fuel pump brands for the GMC Safari, there are several options that offer better performance and reliability compared to OEM options. Here are some recommended brands:

1. ACDelco: As a trusted brand in the automotive industry, ACDelco offers high-quality fuel pumps that are designed to meet or exceed OEM specifications. They are known for their durability and reliable performance.

2. Delphi: Delphi is another reputable brand known for producing fuel pumps with excellent performance and reliability. Their pumps are engineered using advanced technology to ensure optimal fuel delivery and enhanced engine performance.

3. Bosch: Bosch is a well-known name in the automotive parts industry, and their fuel pumps are no exception. Their fuel pumps are known for their durability, efficiency, and smooth operation.

4. Carter: Carter is a popular choice among car enthusiasts looking for aftermarket fuel pumps. They offer a wide range of high-performance fuel pumps that are designed to match or exceed OEM standards.

It’s important to note that while these aftermarket fuel pump brands offer improved performance and reliability, proper installation and maintenance are crucial to ensure optimal performance. It’s always recommended to consult with a professional mechanic or refer to the vehicle’s manual when choosing and installing an aftermarket fuel pump.

In conclusion , replacing the fuel pump in a GMC Safari requires some mechanical expertise, but armed with the right tools and knowledge, it is a task that can be tackled successfully. It is crucial to follow the proper safety procedures and take your time to ensure a job well done. Remember to disconnect the battery to avoid any potential hazards, and make sure to properly support the fuel tank before removing it. Additionally, consider upgrading to a high-quality fuel pump for improved performance and reliability. With these tips in mind, you’ll be able to confidently tackle a GMC Safari fuel pump replacement and keep your vehicle running smoothly for miles to come.

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Mark Smith is a versatile individual with a unique combination of skills and expertise. As a journalist and mechanical engineer, he has made significant contributions to the field of automobiles and trucks. Mark's extensive knowledge in both journalism and engineering allows him to provide insightful and detailed analysis of various automotive topics. With a background in mechanical engineering, Mark possesses a deep understanding of the technical aspects of vehicles, including their design, functionality, and performance. His expertise in this area enables him to dissect complex engineering concepts and present them in a comprehensible manner to his audience. As a journalist, Mark excels at researching, investigating, and reporting on automotive news and developments. He has a keen eye for detail and a knack for storytelling, which enables him to deliver engaging and informative articles. Mark's writing style is characterized by his ability to present technical information in a way that is accessible to readers from different backgrounds, whether they are automotive enthusiasts or simply interested in staying updated with the latest industry trends.

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5 Best & Worst GMC Safari Years (We Checked)

The GMC Safari has had its ups and downs over the years, with various models providing standout features and performance.

Table of Contents

While some years of the Safari delivered reliable service, others faced challenges and attracted some criticism from drivers and experts alike.

This article aims to discuss the best and worst years of the GMC Safari, helping potential buyers make an informed decision when looking to purchase this versatile minivan.

The Best Year for GMC Safari

One of the standout years for the GMC Safari was 2003.

This model received positive reviews for its reliability and durability. Many owners reported putting well over 200,000 miles on the vehicle with minimal maintenance required.

The 2003 GMC Safari was available in both rear-wheel-drive and all-wheel-drive configurations, catering to different needs and preferences.

The 2003 Safari came with a 4.3L V6 engine, offering a good balance of power and fuel efficiency, which was especially impressive for its time. This engine was paired with a 4-speed automatic transmission that provided a smooth driving experience and responsive handling.

In terms of interior features, the 2003 GMC Safari provided ample space for passengers and cargo, as well as various seating configurations to suit different requirements. These features, along with the overall comfortable design, made it suitable for families and businesses alike.

Safety features were also a strong focus in the 2003 model year, with standard equipment such as 4-wheel disc brakes with ABS, driver and passenger airbags, and daytime running lights. These safety enhancements provided added peace of mind for drivers and passengers on their journeys.

Check also the best and worst years for the GMC Canyon pickup .

The 2nd Best Year

The 2001 GMC Safari deserves recognition as the second-best model year for this classic van. While it didn’t receive quite as many accolades as later years, this model still offers reliability and solid performance.

Shoppers can expect to find features such as:

• A potent 4.3L V6 engine delivering 190 horsepower and 250 lb-ft of torque
• A smooth-shifting 4-speed automatic transmission with overdrive
• A maximum tow rating of 5,800 pounds, allowing for versatile hauling capabilities

Despite a few minor drawbacks, the 2001 GMC Safari excelled in a number of areas. With more than respectable fuel economy, owners could expect to achieve up to 16 mpg in the city and 21 mpg on the highway—a notable perk for those prioritizing efficiency.

Safety-wise, this model year showcased improvements over previous years. Although not considered exceptional, it scored better in crash tests compared to earlier models. Standard safety features included antilock brakes, and GM’s Passlock theft-deterrent system provided an added layer of protection.

One thing the 2001 Safari truly excelled in was cargo space. With a cavernous interior, owners could easily accommodate up to 170.4 cubic feet of luggage, making the van a top choice for families or those embarking on long road trips.

While not as highly praised as newer models, this particular year remains a noteworthy option and good value for used car shoppers looking for reliability and performance to boot.

Check also the best and worst years for GMC Jimmy (SUV) .

Other Good Years

As we dive into the GMC Safari’s history, let’s take a look at some other good years for this popular van.

Here’s a list of additional standout years, with brief explanations as to what made them great:

• 2004 GMC Safari : This model year continued to offer the reliable 4.3-liter V6 engine, and it maintained a strong reputation for durability and dependability. Additionally, the 2004 Safari featured comfortable seating and ample cargo space, providing a versatile option for both families and businesses.
• 2005 GMC Safari : As the final production year for the Safari, the 2005 model continued to deliver on the strengths of its predecessors. With its trusty V6 engine and spacious interior, this model remained a practical choice for those in search of a reliable van.

These GMC Safari model years were known for their solid performance and dependability, ensuring that they remain an excellent choice for anyone considering a robust and versatile vehicle.

Problematic Year for GMC Safari

The 1996 GMC Safari, while generally a reliable vehicle, has been associated with certain common issues that potential owners or current owners should be aware of.

One of the most reported problems for this model year revolves around the fuel system. Some owners have experienced fuel pump failure, which can lead to the vehicle stalling or not starting at all. The issue typically emerges after a significant mileage, and the only solution is to replace the fuel pump, which can be a relatively expensive repair.

Engine problems are another area of concern for the 1996 GMC Safari.

These include issues like the “Check Engine” light frequently coming on, misfiring, or engine stalling. In several cases, these problems were traced back to issues with the ignition system, such as a faulty ignition coil or a worn-out distributor cap and rotor. Fixing these problems typically involves replacing the faulty components, which, while not overly expensive, can add to maintenance costs over time.

Transmission failures have also been reported with this model, some occurring at relatively low mileages for a transmission issue.

Transmission replacement or rebuild is a significant expense and can be quite a headache for the vehicle’s owner. Symptoms of a failing transmission can include difficulty shifting gears, the transmission slipping out of gear, or a whining or humming noise. If these symptoms are experienced, it is crucial to get the vehicle to a mechanic as soon as possible to prevent further damage.

The 1996 GMC Safari has also had issues with the power door locks not working correctly, which, while less serious than engine or transmission issues, is still a significant inconvenience for owners. The cause is usually a faulty door lock actuator that needs to be replaced.

Lastly, some owners have reported issues with the van’s exterior lighting.

These problems range from the headlights going out intermittently to the brake lights not functioning correctly, posing a potential safety risk.

It’s important to note that while these issues have been reported, they do not affect every 1996 GMC Safari.

Many owners have had minimal problems and have found the van to be reliable. However, if you’re considering purchasing a used 1996 GMC Safari, or if you’re a current owner experiencing unexplained issues, these are areas you might want to investigate.

Remember, regular maintenance and prompt attention to any problems that arise can go a long way toward extending the life of any vehicle.

Common Problems to Look for in Used GMC Safaris

These vans are known for their durability, but they do have some common issues as well. Watch out for these problems when browsing for a used GMC Safari:

ABS Light Due to Brake System Control Unit Failure: This issue has been reported by 74 people, and it affects the ABS system in your van. While driving, you might notice your anti-lock braking system failing, especially at low speeds.

Outside Door Handles May Break: A total of 70 people have reported this issue. The door handles might show signs of wear, and, in some cases, they can break completely.

Door Locks Stop Working: 62 individuals have reported this issue with their GMC Safaris. The doors may become difficult to lock and unlock, causing inconvenience and potential security risks.

Besides these commonly reported issues, there are some other concerns like brake booster and rotor problems, which are frequently mentioned by owners. While looking for a used GMC Safari, make sure to thoroughly inspect these areas and confirm the vehicle’s service history to avoid purchasing a van with recurring issues.

Go Back: Best & Worst data on all Chevrolet models .

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ⓘ  The information in this article is based on data from National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recall reports, consumer complaints submitted to the NHTSA, reliability ratings from J.D. Power, auto review and rating sites such as Edmunds, specialist forums, etc. We analyzed this data to provide insights into the best and worst years for these vehicle models.

• 2.0L Stratus, Breeze
• 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager
• 2.7L, 3.3L, 3.5L, 3.8L
• 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L
• 4.6L, 5.4L Vans
• 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L
• 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L
• 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L
• 3.0L, 3.3L, 3.5L

Troubleshooting The Fuel Pump (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L)

• By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
• Created: 05 May 2011
• Updated: 27 March 2024
• Articl Id: 222

In this article, I'm gonna' show you the most effective way to test the fuel pump on GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L engines with the 'Spider' fuel injector assembly and it involves using a fuel pressure gauge. I've also included how to check a no fuel condition with starting fluid (although this is not the most effective way to test the fuel pump).

It's been my experience that misdiagnosing a bad fuel pump is a common occurrence on the 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L GM vehicles with the 'Spider' fuel injector assembly. Why? This is because in about 50% of the time, the fuel pump delivers enough fuel to keep the engine running but not enough to start the engine (instead of just frying completely and not delivering any fuel at all). When this happens, you're able to spray starting fluid (or carb spray) down the engine and it'll start and run (once you turn it off, you have to spray again to get it started).

Yes, let me repeat that one more time: As crazy as this sounds, the fuel pump will deliver enough fuel to keep the engine running, but not enough to start it when you're cranking the engine and this makes a lot of folks think that the problem lies anywhere else but in the fuel pump!

Contents of this tutorial:

• Which And Where To Buy A Fuel Pressure Gauge .
• TEST 1: Checking The Fuel Pressure Specification .
• TEST 2: Spraying Starting Fluid (Quick Test) .
• Difference Between A Bad Fuel Pump And An Anti-Theft System (PassLock) Failure .
• Where To Buy The Fuel Pump And Save $$$ .
• Related Test Articles .

NOTE: This tutorial only covers GM pickups and SUVs equipped with the 'Spider' fuel injection system. For the fuel pump test of throttle body fuel-injected (TBI) pickups and SUVs, the following tutorial will help:

• How To Test The Fuel Pump On GM TBI Fuel Systems .

IMPORTANT: Since you'll be working around gasoline and/or starting fluid, be careful, take all necessary safety precautions and think safety all of the time.

Which And Where To Buy A Fuel Pressure Gauge

Owning a fuel pressure gauge is now becoming a must. All vehicles now use an electrical fuel pump to deliver fuel (under high pressure) to the fuel injectors and the best way to diagnose this fuel pump is with a fuel pressure gauge.

In all of the GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L equipped vehicles, GM was kind enough to put a Schrader valve on the fuel injector rail where you can tap into the fuel system and check its performance.

A fuel pressure gauge can cost you as little as $40 (US) or as much as $200 (US). The price difference depends on what type of fuel pressure gauge set you buy, this means either buying a non-professional technician grade tool or a professional technician grade tool. Whichever one you buy, it's an investment that will pay for itself many times over.

I'm going to review two different fuel pressure gauge sets that will shed some light into which one is the one you may want/need to buy.

Your local parts house will have a fuel pressure gauge set to sell you, although you'll pay more for it and it won't be a professional grade tool (if that's what you're looking for).

The ones I recommend are either the Actron CP7838 Professional Fuel Pressure Tester or the OTC 6550 Master Fuel Injection Kit . In the next paragraphs I'll explain why.

The Actron CP7838 Professional Fuel Pressure Tester is a good tool but not a professional technician level fuel pressure gauge. Although the name used by Actron to describe it has the word 'professional' as part of its name.

Why do I know this is a good tool? Well, I own one (I also have a professional level grade fuel pressure gauge set) and I have used it in a regular manner and I can tell you that it works.

The only things I don't like about it is 1.) No molded case to put the fuel pressure gauge and the fittings that go with it and 2.) You can't buy the fittings, that you may lose or break, separately. But for the price, it's a great deal.

You'll be able to test most of the GM vehicles, most Ford vehicles, among several makes. Although this is not that important if you're only worried about testing your GM vehicle.

The OTC 6550 Master Fuel Injection Kit will have the adapters for Asian and Domestic (USA) vehicles. So, if you work on cars for a living and you work on a variety of Makes and Models, this is the fuel pressure gauge set that you need to have in your tool box.

Since this fuel pressure gauge set is a professional grade technician tool, you can buy most of the components, that make up the set, separately. This comes in handy, because you're able to buy whatever fitting you lose or gets damaged.

Also, and probably the last consideration, is that this is an OTC tool, and OTC has been around for a long, long time and makes a ton of automotive specialty tools known for quality.

TEST 1: Checking The Fuel Pressure Specification

The fuel system in your 4.3L, 5.0L, or 5.7L Vortec engine needs at least 50 PSI of fuel pressure to start.

The fuel pump produces much more than just 50 PSI of course but the bare minimum the engine needs to start is 50 PSI. Anything less and it will crank for ever before it starts or not start at all.

So, the very first thing you need to do is to verify that the fuel pump is delivering at least 50 PSI of fuel pressure while the engine is cranking . Yes, while the engine is cranking.

Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel line that connects to the 'Spider' assembly. This is where you'll connect your fuel pressure gauge (see photo above).

NOTE: In case you're wondering, the factory manual specifies that the fuel pressure for the CSFI system should be between 56-62 PSI. The CPI system's fuel pressure should be between 60-66 PSI. The manual doesn't specify if this pressure is key on engine off, only that this pressure should be maintained ' under all operating conditions' .

If you don't know whether you have a CPI or CSFI system, you can find out the difference between them by checking out the info in this subheading: 'Spider Fuel Injection Basics' found in this tutorial: How To Test The 'Spider' Fuel Injector Assembly (4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) .

OK, to get this show on the road, this is what you'll need to do:

Place a shop towel underneath the area of the Schrader valve . The shop towel's job is to absorb any fuel that may leak when doing step 2.

Connect your fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve .

Pressurize the fuel system by activating the fuel pump . You can do this by simply turning the key ON and OFF several times. Once the fuel pressure gauge registers pressure, check for fuel leaks around the Schrader valve.

Check for fuel leaks around the area where you connected the gauge to the Schrader valve. If any are present, resolve them. IMPORTANT: It's important that NO fuel leaks are present for the accuracy of the test. Once you have verified no fuel leaks, continue to the next step.

Have your assistant crank the engine as you eyeball the fuel pressure gauge. NOTE: For the accuracy of your test results, it's important that you have someone else crank the vehicle so that you can eye-ball the fuel pressure gauge.

You'll get one of two results: 1.) The fuel pressure gauge will register at least 50 PSI and the engine will start. 2.) The fuel pressure gauge will register 49 PSI or less and the engine will not start.

OK, let's find out what your fuel pressure gauge results mean:

CASE 1: Your fuel pressure gauge read 50 PSI or more as the engine cranked . This means that the fuel pump on your 4.3L, 5.0L, or 5.7L is OK and not the cause of your no-start condition.

The next step is to observe the fuel pressure gauge's needle (after your helper stopped cranking the engine). The needle should descend to about 40 to 45 PSI and stay there for at least 4 to 5 minutes. If the needle DOES NOT stay at this fuel pressure (more specifically: if the needle drops to 0 PSI immediately -by immediately, I mean within the first 15 seconds), you have either the fuel pressure regulator or a fuel injector leaking fuel inside the plastic intake plenum.

You can find the fuel pressure regulator test here: How To Test The 'Spider' Fuel Injector Assembly (4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) .

IMPORTANT: This test result could be telling you that the PassLock anti-theft system has armed itself and is keeping your pick-up or SUV from starting. I recommend taking a look at the following section (in the next page): Difference Between A Bad Fuel Pump And An Anti-Theft System (PassLock) Failure .

The following tutorial may also be a good starting point in diagnosing the cranks but does not start condition your GM pickup or SUV is experiencing (if it's not fuel pump related): How To Troubleshoot A No Start (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) .

CASE 2: Your fuel pressure gauge DID NOT read 50 PSI or more as the engine cranked . This means that the fuel pump is bad, even if you spray starting fluid down the throttle body and your vehicle Starts.

If the engine does not get at least 50 PSI when cranking, it won't start (and is the surest indicator that the fuel pump will go completely bad in short). If in your case the gauge read 45 to 49 PSI, the engine will eventually start after several attempts as the fuel starts to accumulate on the Pistons or if you spray starting fluid (or carb spray) into the intake.

If the fuel pressure reading was 0 PSI, then the fuel pump is probably fried. Why 'probably'? Well, you still need to make sure: 1.) That the fuel pump fuse and relay are OK. 2.) That you have enough fuel in the tank (don't laugh, it happens).

• Ignition System Wiring Diagram (1993-1995 4.0L Jeep Grand Cherokee)
• How To Test The TPS (1993-1995 4.0L Grand Cherokee)
• TP Sensor Wiring Diagram (1993-1995 4.0L Jeep Grand Cherokee)
• MAP Sensor Wiring Diagram (1993-1995 4.0L Jeep Grand Cherokee)
• Auto Shut Down (ASD) Relay Wiring Diagram (1993-1995 4.0L Jeep Grand Cherokee)

Applies To:

Chevrolet Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1999, 2000, 2001
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999
• 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
• 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007

GMC Vehicles:

• 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002

Isuzu Vehicles:

• 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000

Oldsmobile Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001

Cadillac Vehicles:

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NHTSA — Fuel System, Gasoline: Delivery: Fuel Pump Problems

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1997 GMC Safari Owner Comments

Feb 19 2004

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Jan 01 2001

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GMC Sierra Bad Fuel Pump: Symptoms, Causes, + Diagnosis

A bad fuel pump can cause a myriad of problems for your GMC Sierra, making it essential to be aware of the warning signs that indicate trouble.

Your fuel pump is responsible for pushing fuel from your truck’s fuel tank to the engine, but when it starts to fail, your engine may suffer run rough, have trouble starting, or not start at all.

Key Takeaways

• Be aware of the warning signs of a bad fuel pump, such as a whining noise, stalling, and trouble starting your car.
• Catching issues early can prevent further damage to your Sierra and help avoid being stranded.
• Running low or out of gas can damage a fuel pump and shorten its life.
• If your Sierra’s check engine light is on, and it has code P0087, there’s a lack of fuel pressure, and you’re on the right track.

Identifying Bad Fuel Pump Symptoms

When determining if your GMC Sierra’s fuel pump is going bad, there are a few common symptoms to look out for. Here, we’ll discuss three key indicators that your fuel pump might be failing.

1. Whining Noise

The sound clip above is a fuel pump priming. After it has primed, you may hear a high-pitched whining noise, which can indicate a fuel pump that is failing.

2. Stalling

Another telltale sign that the Toyoat Sierra’s fuel pump is going out is stalling, often followed by the engine restarting after several minutes. This is due to low fuel pressure.

If you find your car struggling to start or losing power, this could also indicate a fuel pump problem. Long cranking times and the Sierra running irregularly are other possible indicators of a failing fuel pump.

By being attentive and catching these issues early on, you can address them appropriately and keep your vehicle running smoothly.

3. Engine Sputtering

If your fuel pump is not functioning correctly, you may notice your engine sputtering at high speeds. This happens because the fuel pump is unable to provide a consistent flow of fuel to the engine.

If your GMC Sierra is experiencing engine sputtering or cutting out for brief periods, this could be a sign of a bad fuel pump.

4. Power Loss While Accelerating

Another common symptom of a failing fuel pump is a sudden loss of power when you try to accelerate . A properly functioning fuel pump should be able to deliver the required amount of fuel to the GMC Sierra’s engine when you step on the gas pedal.

If the fuel pump is failing, it might not be able to keep up with the engine’s demands, causing a noticeable drop in power as you try to accelerate. This power loss is usually temporary but can become more severe as the fuel pump deteriorates.

5. Carortruck Not Starting

A bad fuel pump can also cause your truck to have difficulty starting or not start at all . If your GMC Sierra struggles to start or dies immediately after starting, ensure you can hear the fuel pump turning on when you first turn the key to the “ON” position.

As mentioned above, a functioning fuel pump will typically make an audible buzzing sound as it primes the fuel lines. If you don’t hear this sound, it could be an indication of a bad fuel pump .

By keeping an eye out for these symptoms, you can quickly identify a potentially failing fuel pump and get it checked or replaced before it causes further issues with your vehicle.

The engine will still crank fine if the starter isn’t engaging; that has nothing to do with the fuel pump.

Causes of Bad Fuel Pump Symptoms: GMC Sierra

Worn fuel pump (highly likely).

A worn fuel pump is likely the reason your Sierra is experiencing the symptoms associated with low fuel pressure.

Over time, the internal components of your fuel pump wear out, causing it to become less efficient at delivering fuel to your engine. The resultant  low fuel pressure  can cause those symptoms, such as:

• Whining noise coming from the fuel tank area
• Stalling and restarting issues
• Difficulty starting your truck

Fuel Pump Relay Issues

Another potential cause for bad fuel pump symptoms is a faulty fuel pump relay. This relay controls the power supply to your Sierra’s fuel pump, and a faulty relay may lead to:

• Intermittent power loss to the fuel pump
• Inability to start your truck
• Unpredictable pump operation, leading to stalling or rough running

The fuel pump relay will usually not fail when driving. If your Sierra isn’t starting, and the fuel pump relay isn’t activating, there won’t be any voltage where the fuel pump harness connects to the fuel pump.

You can test the voltage anywhere after the relay to see if power is getting through.

Clogged Fuel Filter

Lastly, a clogged fuel filter can contribute to the bad fuel pump symptoms you may experience. A fuel filter’s primary function is to remove dirt, debris, and contaminants from the fuel before it reaches your engine. A clogged filter can:

• Restrict fuel flow to your engine, causing a loss of power
• Contribute to engine misfires and rough idling
• Put additional strain on your fuel pump, leading to premature wear

Regularly  checking and replacing your fuel filter  as specified in your vehicle’s maintenance guidelines is essential to maintaining optimal engine performance and avoiding bad fuel pump symptoms.

Seeking Professional Help

Diagnostic testing.

If you suspect that your vehicle has a bad fuel pump, it’s essential to get it checked by a professional mechanic, or take a look at it at home if you’re so inclined. They can perform diagnostic testing to confirm your suspicions and identify the root cause of the problem. Diagnostic testing typically involves:

• Using an OBD II scanner to check for any relevant code
• Using a fuel pressure gauge to check your Sierra’s fuel pressure.
• Inspecting the fuel filter for any blockages or debris.
• Examining the fuel lines and connections for any leaks or damage.

By conducting these tests, you or a mechanic can determine if your fuel pump is indeed the issue or if another factor is contributing to your vehicle’s performance problems.

Fuel Pump Replacement

Should the diagnostic tests confirm that your Sierra’s fuel pump is faulty, you’ll need to have it replaced as soon as possible. Here’s what’s involved in replacing a fuel pump.

• Disconnecting the truck’s battery and relieving the fuel system pressure.
• Accessing your Sierra’s fuel pump.
• Disconnecting the fuel lines and electrical connections from the old fuel pump.
• Installing the new fuel pump, reconnecting the fuel lines, and plugging in the electrical connections.
• Reinstalling the fuel tank (if removed) or access panel and reconnecting the battery.

Dropping a fuel tank is always easier if you siphon most of the gas out of it first.

In summary, a bad fuel pump can adversely affect your GMC Sierra’s performance and potentially lead to expensive repairs or even dangerous driving conditions.

By being aware of the common symptoms, you can take proactive steps to address the issue before it escalates. Among the key indicators to watch for are:

• A  whining noise  coming from the fuel tank area when the engine is running.
• Stalling  that will restart after several minutes.
• Trouble starting  your Sierra
• Lack of power  while driving.
• Long cranking time  before the engine starts.

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No start after new fuel pump

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I recently installed a new fuel pump & filter in my 03 Astro @ 170xxx miles. I can hear the new pump kick on, but for some reason it cranks but won't start or stay running unless I give it gas. As soon as you let off the accelerator, it falls flat on its face. Is it possible that I wired the connector on the new pump wrong? Before the old pump went out I was having a similar issue where it wouldnt idle unless I gave it gas, but sometimes if you turn ignition off and then back on, it would idle just fine.....Any suggestions are greatly appreciated  

Have you had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up? If so, were the readings normal both when trying to idle and when giving it a bit of gas. Did you also change the fuel filter? It might not be part of the problem, but it is very wise to change the filter when replacing the pump. Rod J  

I checked fuel pump pressure on the rail. Shot right up to 60 psi. I was going to try throttle position sensor next. It could be no spark issue, but I feel like it's a no fuel issue. Could it be MAF sensor? I'm stuck at this point  

Did it do this before you replaced the pump? Why did you replace the pump?  

Spray a little starting fluid in and see if it kicks, just to make sure you have spark. Mine just did some odd things after the pump was installed. Turned out the cap and rotor were shot  

It actually did do this before I replaced the fuel pump. Sometimes it wouldn't start/stay running unless you give it gas, but normally if I turned it off and started it again, it would fire right up and idle smoothly. That wasn't always the case though. One day, it started running really rough, and it was low on fuel, so I went to the gas station, and after I filled it with gas, it wouldn't start. I wasn't hearing the pump kick on, so I had it towed home, and replaced the pump. Now I have brand new pump and filter (with good pressure) but it still won't start.  

I would suggest after this: Pull the coil high voltage wire from the distributor cap place a spark plug into the wire and lay the plug against the metal engine block so you can see the spark. the motor won't start this way. But if the spark isn't there or the spark isn't blue or white But yellow you need to replace the COIL! The coil is a high failure part on these vans. I have replaced a few and I carry a new one for future replacement. The first time go to a U pullit and remove the coil bracket and all from another Astro/Safari watching closely and what nuts/studs need to be removed. Next file, grind, off the rivets on one end holding the bracket to the coil. When the van is running go back to parts store and buy another coil install it in YOUR original bracket throw/store it in a safe place under the seat for future.  

Mberry0614 said: One day, it started running really rough, and it was low on fuel, so I went to the gas station, and after I filled it with gas, it wouldn't start . I wasn't hearing the pump kick on, so I had it towed home, and replaced the pump. Now I have brand new pump and filter (with good pressure) but it still won't start. Click to expand...

jumpering the relay is the first place I go. Way easier.  

Mmusicman said: You put in gas, and it stopped running. Just for the record... our fuel pumps are spring-loaded and ALL pick up from the very bottom of the tank ... regardless of level. Click to expand...

Mberry0614 said: I checked fuel pump pressure on the rail. Shot right up to 60 psi. I was going to try throttle position sensor next. It could be no spark issue, but I feel like it's a no fuel issue. Could it be MAF sensor? I'm stuck at this point Click to expand...

sixsix said: Mmusicman said: You put in gas, and it stopped running. Just for the record... our fuel pumps are spring-loaded and ALL pick up from the very bottom of the tank ... regardless of level. Click to expand...

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Street Photography Tips, Interaction, Travel, Guides

Apr 24 2017

City Street Guides by f.d. walker: A Street Photography Guide to Moscow, Russia

*A series of guides on shooting Street Photography in cities around the world. Find the best spots to shoot, things to capture, street walks, street tips, safety concerns, and more for cities around the world. I have personally researched, explored and shot Street Photography in every city that I create a guide for. So you can be ready to capture the streets as soon as you step outside with your camera!

At over 12 million people, Moscow is the largest city in Russia and second largest in Europe by population ( Istanbul is #1). An urban, cosmopolitan metropolis with more than enough glitz and glam to cater to the elite, but without losing its fair share of Soviet era roughness around the edges. It can be fast paced, brash, busy, and trendy like other big cities, but it has its blend of West meets Russia atmosphere and beauty that provides plenty of unique interest. The Red Square is as famous as it gets, but there’s so much more to this city, including the most beautiful subway system you’ve ever seen. It would take years to capture all of Moscow, but that means you have an endless amount of areas to discover.

So here’s a Street Photography guide so you can be ready to capture all that Moscow has to offer before you even arrive!

• Patriarch’s Pond
• Old Arbat Street
• Maroseyka Street
• Tverskoy Boulevard

Top 5 Street Spots:

1. red square.

The Red Square is the most famous square in not just Russia, but all of Eastern Europe. The name actually doesn’t come from the color of the bricks or communism, but from the name in Russian, Krásnaya, once meaning “beautiful” before its meaning changed to “red.” This large plaza is what you see on the cover of guide books and magazines for Moscow, with St. Basil’s Cathedral being the center piece next to Lenin’s Mausoleum surrounded by the Kremlin Wall. Of course, the Red Square attracts hordes of tourist due to the main attractions, but all that activity around an interesting atmosphere does provide street photo opportunities. It’s also the central square connecting to the city’s major streets, providing a good starting point to explore outward.

You’ll also find the popular pedestrian only Nikolskaya Street connecting the Red Square to Lubyanka Square. This line of expensive shops includes plenty of activity, while also leading you to another popular square. Filled with history rivaling any city, the Red Square and surrounding areas are the heart and soul of Russia.

2. Patriarch’s Ponds

Patriarch’s Ponds is one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Moscow. Despite the name being plural, there’s only one large pond, but it’s worth a visit with your camera. It’s a popular spot for locals and expats to come relax or take a stroll around the pond. You get an interesting mix of young and old too, from young love to “babushkas” feeding pigeons. It’s a very peaceful park atmosphere in one of the nicer areas within the city center, while bringing enough activity for street photography. 

The pond is shallow and in the winter becomes a popular spot for ice-skating too. The area is also well-known for the location in the famous Russian novel, The Master and Margarita. 

3. Old Arbat (Stary Arbat)

Old Arbat is the most famous pedestrian street in Moscow, and dating back to the 15th century, also one of its oldest. Originally, it was an area of trade, but soon became the most prestigious residential area in Moscow. During the 18th century, Arbat started attracting the city’s scholars and artists, including Alexander Pushkin. Cafes lined the streets and impressive homes filled the neighborhood. Since then, New Arbat street was created as a highway in the area, while Old Arbat was paved for a 1km pedestrian only walkway.

Due to the historic buildings, famous artists that lived here, and the bohemian atmosphere, Old Arbat has become a big attraction for tourists today. Now, there’s a mix of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, street performers, street merchants and other attractions for visitors, and some locals, to come enjoy. It can get really busy here and there’s usually something interesting going on so it’s a good street to come walk with your camera for guaranteed life.

4. Gorky Park

One of the most famous places in Moscow is Gorky Park. The official name is Maxim Gorky’s Central Park of Culture & Leisure, which gives you an idea of what goes on here. When built, it was the first of its kind in the Soviet Union. Divided into two parts, it stretches along Moscow River. One end contains fair rides, foods stands, tennis courts, a sports club, a lake for boat rides, and more. This end brings more active life due to its number of attractions, while the other end is more relaxed, where you’ll find gardens, trees, older buildings, and an outdoor amphitheater.

Gorky Park attracts mostly locals so it’s a good spot to capture the non-tourist side of Moscow life. Muscovites come here to escape the city and unwind in a picturesque setting. The park remains alive outside of the warmer months too, especially when the lake turns into the city’s largest outdoor skating rink. I’d recommend taking the metro out here to spend at least half a day exploring the massive park’s life with your camera.

5. Maroseyka Street

Maroseyka Street is a popular area not too far from the Red Square. The long, winding street turns into Pokrovka and is lined with restaurants, cafes, bars and places to stay. It’s actually where I like to stay when I’m in Moscow due to its location and solid street photography opportunities itself. You have Kitay-gorod station near and if you keep walking southwest, you’ll get to the Red Square. But if you walk northwest, as it changes to Pokrovka, you can find a long street of activity for photography with its own interesting atmosphere.

6. Tverskoy Boulevard

Tverskoy Boulevard is the oldest and longest boulevard in Moscow, beginning at the end of Nikitsky Boulevard, and finishing at Pushkin Square, a spot to come for activity itself. The boulevard is made up of two avenues, with pedestrian walkways in-between. You’ll find grass, shrubbery, trees, benches and more walking it’s almost kilometer length. Many people come here to enjoy some relaxation, walk their dog, or just to use it to walk wherever they’re going. Its center location also provides a nice place to walk with your camera near plenty of other spots you’ll want to check out anyway.

Sample Street Walk:

For a full day of Street Photography, covering some of the best spots, you can follow this sample street walk for Moscow:

• Start your morning walking around the Red Square (1), while exploring the surrounding area, including Nikolskaya Street
• Then walk northwest to Patriarch’s Ponds (2) and slowly walk the pond and surrounding area with your camera
• Next, walk east to the Pushkin Monument and stroll down Tverskoy Boulevard (6)
• Once Tverskoy Boulevard (6) ends, it will turn into Nikitsky Boulevard. Follow this down until you get to the start of Old Arbat Street (3), across from Arbatskaya station
• After you’re done walking down Old Arbat Street (3) for more street photography, spend some time checking out Moscow’s beautiful metro stations
• To finish off the day with more street photography, get off the metro near Red Square (1) again, Maroseyka Street (5) or wherever you’re staying for the night.

3 Things I’ll Remember about Shooting in Moscow:

1. museum metro.

The Moscow metro system was the first underground railway system in the Soviet Union and today includes 203 stations across 340km of routes. The elaborate system has some of the deepest stations in the world too, with escalators that seem to go on forever. None of this is what makes it so special, though. Many of its stations feel like stepping inside a museum, making it without a doubt the most interesting and beautiful metro system I’ve been in.

When built, Stalin wanted to make the metro stations “palaces for the people” with marble, chandeliers, and grand architecture. The best part is the variety of architecture and styles used, making many of the stations a completely different experience visually. You could easily spend a whole day traveling the stations and there are even tours available for people who wish to do just that. My advice, though, would be just to buy a ticket and hop on and off at different stations, while exploring different lines. The museum-like surrounding mixed with the crowds of characters can make for a great photography experience.

Since there are so many stations, here are some of my favorites to check out:

• Novoslobodskaya
• Mayakovskaya
• Elektrozavodskaya
• Komsomolskaya
• Ploschad Revolyutsii
• Dostoyevskaya
• Prospekt Mira

2. Moscow is Big

It’s no secret that Moscow is a big city, but it can feel even bigger with how spread out much of it is. This is especially true if you compare it to cities outside of Asia. If I compared it to cities in Europe, I’d probably say only Istanbul would warrant more time to really discover the depths of this city. Most only explore around the Red Square and surrounding area, but that is such a small part of the city. Although, that central area does give you plenty to see on its own.

Fortunately, I had a good friend living in the city to show me around, but it opened up my eyes even more to how much there is to discover in Moscow. It’s a big city with a variety of atmosphere that can take you from “east” to “west” and trendy to rugged depending on where you go. I’d imagine you’d have to live here a while to really know the city.

3. Cosmopolitan Mix of East meets West

Modern skyscrapers mixed with amazing architecture, a world-class metro system with museum-like beauty, trendy fashion and chic clubs, Moscow is a rich mix of Russian culture and history in a more western cosmopolitan package. There is a push to keep the Russian culture, while also pushing forward with a modern metropolis the whole world will envy. This comes with an impressive skyline, that continues to grow, and endless modernities, but with soviet nostalgia and atmosphere mixed in for good measure.

Mixed in with this grand western cosmopolitan atmosphere, is a strong national pride in Russia. This includes their famous leader, Vladimir Putin. Maybe no other place will you see a country’s leader more often. All over, from the pricey tourist shops to the underground walkway stalls, you’ll find goods with Putin’s likeness covering them. From t-shirts to magnets to Matryoshka dolls. There’s a strong national pride that can be seen around the city, which also extends to their leader. Moscow is many things. It’s East meets West, modernizations meets Soviet era, and a whole lot more.

What To Do For a Street Photography Break?:

Eat at a stolovaya.

Stolovayas are Russian cafeterias that became popular in the Soviet days. You grab a tray and walk down the line of freshly prepared local dishes, and select whatever you want from the chefs. They’re usually inexpensive and a much better value than restaurants, while giving you the opportunity to try from a wide selection of everyday Russian food. They’re also very tasty. I always include some borsch on my tray and go from there. The places themselves are all over Moscow and usually come with Soviet-era aesthetics to complete the experience.

Street Safety Score: 7

*As always, no place is completely safe! So when I talk about safety, I’m speaking in general comparison to other places. Always take precaution, be smart, observe your surroundings and trust your instincts anywhere you go!

Being the 2nd largest city in Europe with over 12 million people, you’re going to have your dangerous areas, but for the most part, it feels safe walking around. Russia is statistically higher in crime compared to most of Europe, but this generally doesn’t apply to tourists and visitors. Around the Red Square and surrounding city center, you should feel completely safe walking around. Pick pocketing can happen, but no more than other touristic places. I always explore Moscow freely without coming across too much to worry about. It’s a spread out city, though, so of course it matters where you are. Just use basic street smarts, know where you are and Moscow shouldn’t give you a problem. 

People’s Reaction Score: 7

Moscow is fast paced, big city life, which usually means people aren’t too concerned with you, or your camera. I don’t find people notice or pay much attention to me when I’m out taking photos in Moscow. For the most part, people just go about their day. You shouldn’t get too many looks or concern. But it can depend on the area you are in. The more you stick out, the more you might get noticed with suspicions. I’ve never had any problems in Moscow, or Russia, but just be careful who you’re taking a photo of if you get out of the city center. Other than that, it’s about average for reactions. 

Street Tips:

Learn the alphabet .

Much of Moscow, including the metro system, doesn’t use english. The Russian alphabet uses letters from the Cyrillic script, which if you aren’t familiar with it and don’t know the sounds, can be hard to decipher the words. This is most important for street names and metro stops when trying to get around. It can save confusion and make it easier getting around if you learn the basic alphabet. At the very least then, you can sound out the words to see which are similar in the english conversion, which can help matching them to maps. When out shooting street photography, getting around is as important as anything. So save yourself some time and frustration by learning the Russian Alphabet.

Use the metro

While Saint-Petersburg feels very walkable for a city its size, Moscow can feel very spread out, even for its bigger size. Outside of the Red Square area, you can have plenty of walking before getting anywhere very interesting, so you’ll need to take the metro a lot if you really want to explore the city. Maps are deceiving here too, it will always be further than it looks.

Another reason it’s less walkable than Saint-Petersburg is its completely different set-up. Moscow’s streets are mostly contstructed in rings with narrow, winding streets in-between. This is common with medieval city cities that used to be confined by walls, but you usually don’t have it in a city this massive. Saint-Petersburg has a more grid-like pattern that also uses the canals to help you know your way around. When it comes to navigating on foot in Moscow, it can be more difficult, so bring a map and take the metro when needed. It’s why Moscow’s metro carries more passengers per day than the London and Paris subways combined.

Explore other areas if you have time

Moscow is really big. While most people stay around the Red Square within the Boulevard Ring, there’s so much more to the city. I covered some other spots outside of this circle, but if you really want to see the city, you’ll need time. If you do have time, some other areas I’d check out first are Zamoskvarechye, along some of the south and western Moscow.

Inspiration:

For some more inspiration, you can look through the Street Photography of Moscow photographer Artem Zhitenev  and check out 33 of my photos taken in Moscow .

Conclusion:

Moscow’s name brings a certain mystique, but once you’re there it might bring a different atmosphere than you expect. It’s big and sprawling, but beautiful in many ways. It can feel like a European capital on a grand scale, but you can definitely find its Russian side in there.

The urban sprawl of Moscow can be intimidating, but give it enough time and you’ll be rewarded with plenty to discover. All with the world’s best metro system to take you around.

I hope this guide can help you start to experience some of what Moscow contains. So grab your camera and capture all that Moscow has to offer for Street Photography!

If you still have any questions about shooting in Moscow, feel free to comment below or email me!

(I want to make these guides as valuable as possible for all of you so add any ideas on improvements, including addition requests, in the comment section!)

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