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The Ultimate Guide to the Louis Vuitton Keepall

The Louis Vuitton Keepall is the lightest and smartest travel-friendly bag in the world of ultra-luxury.

The Louis Vuitton Keepall stands out in the realm of travel bags as the epitome of luxury and sophistication. As one of the most recognizable travel carryalls today, the Keepall can “keep it all” in while boasting a wide range of sizes, styles, materials and colors to suit every traveler’s unique taste. The Louis Vuitton Keepall’s enduring and timeless elegance makes it the ultimate symbol of sophistication in the world of travel and beyond – and all our closets are craving one! 

History of the Louis Vuitton Keepall

Louis Vuitton remains iconic for its travel luggage, trunk bags, and accessories . The Keepall was designed by Gaston Vuitton and draws inspiration from Louis Vuitton’s travel luggage. The Keepall’s exceptional appeal, particularly evident upon its introduction in the 1930s, lies in its departure from the heavy and boxy luggage norms of the time. Instead, the Keepall embraces a light, flexible, and convenient design, perfectly suited for spontaneous travelers yearning for quick and effortless departures.

Louis Vuitton Keepall Size Comparisons

The Louis Vuitton Keepall comes in four sizes: 45, 50, 55, and 60 and these numbers are indicative of the length of the Keepall in centimeters. 

The Keepall 45 measures approximately 17.7” x 10.6” x 7.9” 

The Keepall 50 measures approximately 19.7” x 11.4” x 8.7” 

The Keepall 55 measures approximately 21.7” x 12.2” x 9.4” 

The Keepall 60 measures approximately 23.6” x 13” x 10.2”  

It appears that Louis Vuitton has phased out production of the regular Keepalls with the exception of the Keepall 55. The rest of the Keepalls available directly through Louis Vuitton are Bandoulieres. The Bandouliere style comes in sizes 45, 50, 55, and 60 and the measurements are the same as the regular Keepall. 

WATCH ON YOUTUBE : What fits inside the Louis Vuitton Keepall Bandouliere 45

Louis Vuitton Keepall Styles

After the Keepall was introduced, then came the Keepall Bandouliere which comes with a removable strap that can be adjusted to your liking. 

Louis Vuitton Keepall Materials & Colors

The Louis Vuitton Keepall was initially introduced in the classic monogram coated canvas and continues to be available in this iconic textile for Louis Vuitton . Beyond the classics, the Louis Vuitton Keepall can be shopped in all the luxurious LV leathers such as Epi leather , Taiga, Taurillon , and other “out of the box” materials such as PVC, transparent mesh , denim , and even wool part of LV’s felt line crafted using organic cotton, recycled wool-based jacquard, and recycled polyester. There’s even the Light Up Keepall – a total keeper! 

If you’re planning a vacation and need a hassle-free duffle bag to take with you, look no further than the Louis Vuitton Keepall , a carryall that never disappoints and one of the world’s most identifiable travel bags to date (so it makes a great investment). The Keepall’s versatility and adaptability are underscored by the vast array of sizes it offers and the style choices further enhance its allure along with the diverse materials and colors you can choose from season after season. No wonder Pharrell Williams’ debut at Louis Vuitton Men’s 2024 Spring Summer collection spotlighted tons of leather monogram iterations of the Speedy and Keepalls .

Find out what you can fit inside the Louis Vuitton Keepall Bandouliere 45:

The sister to the Louis Vuitton Keepall is the Louis Vuitton Speedy. Learn about Louis Vuitton Speedy bags in this comprehensive reference guide . Shop 100% authentic pre-loved Louis Vuitton Keepall bags and Speedy bags at FASHIONPHILE.

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Louis Vuitton Luggage Sizes

When you are looking to buy luggage, the first thing you need to determine is what size is right for you. Luggage comes in a variety of sizes, and each one has its own benefits and drawbacks (skip straight to the Louis Vuitton Luggage Sizes ).

What is the right Louis Vuitton luggage size for you?

It depends if you want it for carry-on or for checking in. The most popular size for a carry-on is the 21″ because it’s big enough to fit everything you need, but not too big or bulky to lug around.

If you are looking for a checked-in bag, the most popular size is 28″. This will give you enough space to pack for a long trip.

If you are not sure which size to choose, keep reading for more information! In this blog post, we will discuss the different sizes of luggage and how much they cost. We will also provide some tips on how to choose the right size for your needs.

Jump right into the Frequently Asked Questions

Related: Louis Vuitton Slides Size Chart and Fitting , Louis Vuitton Shoes Size Chart and Fitting , Louis Vuitton Belt Size Chart

Louis Vuitton Luggage Sizes Table of Contents

• Louis Vuitton Duffle Bag Sizes

Louis Vuitton Suitcase Sizes

Louis vuitton trolley bag sizes, how to choose the right louis vuitton luggage size for you, frequently asked questions, lv duffle bag sizes.

Duffle bags can be great for short trips or as a second bag to bring on a longer trip. They are typically smaller and more lightweight than other types of luggage, making them easy to carry.

Louis Vuitton offers Keepall and Carryall. The chart can help you can compare Louis Vuitton Keepall sizes comparison and we also included the dimensions of CarryAll.

Louis Vuitton Duffel Bag Sizes

Note: Keepall has different designs. The one with the Louis Vuitton monogram duffel bag canvas is the name Keepall and the number afterward. However, Keepall 45B and Keepall 50B means their prints are different but are of the same size.

Related: What Size is Carry On Luggage? , Carry on luggage sizes and dimension guide

Louis Vuitton suitcases are perfect for longer trips or if you need to pack more items. They come in a variety of sizes, from the small but mighty cabin size to the large and in-charge trunk size.

LV suitcases are inspired by vintage Louis Vuitton suitcases and trunks. The new designs have been updated for the modern traveler but still maintain that classic Louis Vuitton look.

The chart below will show you the sizes of the current items with monogram canvas such as Bisten and Alzer.

Louis Vuitton Suitcase Dimension

Related: Travel Trunk Size Chart – Understanding The Best One For You , Back Pack Size Chart for adults and kids

If you are looking for a bag that is easy to maneuver and will make packing a breeze, then a trolley bag is the right choice for you. Trolley bags have wheels and a handle, making them easy to roll through the airport or down the street.

In this chart, you will see the dimensions for two of Louis Vuitton’s most popular trolley bags, the Pegase and the Horizon.

Louis Vuitton Trolley Bag Dimensions

Related: Travel Size Toiletries for Airplane Bags

Now that you know the sizes and dimensions of Louis Vuitton’s luggage, how do you choose the right size for you?

It depends on a few factors, such as how long your trip is, how many people are going with you, and what you plan on packing, you want it for carry-on or for checking in.

Carry On Bag Standard Size

The standard size for a carry-on bag is 22” x 14” x 9″ , but the size can vary by airline. Be sure to check with your airline before you buy luggage to make sure it meets their size requirements.

If you want a bag that is small enough to be a carry-on but has enough space for everything you need, then the Louis Vuitton duffel bag is a great option.

Checked Bag Standard Size

The standard size for a checked bag is 62 linear inches, which is the bag’s total length, width, and height.

If you are planning on checking your luggage, then you will want to choose a size that is big enough to fit everything you need but not too big or bulky to lug around.

Length of Trip

The length of your trip will also play a role in choosing the right luggage size. If you are only going away for a weekend, then you won’t need as much space as if you were going on a week-long vacation.

Number of People

If you are traveling with other people, such as your family or friends, you may be able to share a larger piece of luggage. This can help save space and money.

What You Plan on Packing

You will also need to consider what you plan on packing when choosing the right size of luggage. If you are a light packer, then you won’t need as much space as someone who likes to pack for every possible scenario.

Check out this video to learn more about Louis Vuitton Luggage Sizes

How much is louis vuitton luggage.

The cost of Louis Vuitton luggage can vary depending on the size and style of the bag. The prices range from $1400 for a small duffel bag to $4100 for a large suitcase.

How Much Is A Louis Vuitton Suitcase

A suitcase from Louis Vuitton can cost anywhere from $5000 to $8000. Alzer is one of the most expensive suitcases because of its size design. It is a hard-sided suitcase that is made from top-quality materials and is known for its durability.

How Much Is A Louis Vuitton Duffle Bag

The cost of a Louis Vuitton duffle bag for luggage can range from $1500 to $5000 for a limited edition.

Where To Buy Louis Vuitton

You can buy Louis Vuitton luggage from the official website or from authorized retailers. You can also find pre-owned pieces on sites like eBay and Vestiaire Collective.

However, when buying pre-owned, be sure to check the bag’s condition and that it comes with all original accessories.

How To Tell If Louis Vuitton Duffle Bag Is Real

When looking at a Louis Vuitton duffle bag, you can check a few things to see if it is real.

First, look at the stitching and make sure it is even and symmetrical. Second, check the materials of the bag to see if they are authentic.

Third, look for the date code which is usually located on a leather tag inside the bag. Lastly, check the price to see if it is too good to be true. If the LV bag meets all these criteria, it is most likely real.

How To Open Louis Vuitton Lock Without Key

If you have lost the key to your Louis Vuitton lock, you can try opening it with a paperclip. First, straighten out the paperclip and insert it into the keyhole.

Second, wiggle the paperclip around until you feel it catch on something. Third, pull up the paperclip until the lock opens. If this does not work, you can also try using a bobby pin or a hairpin.

When choosing the right size of luggage for your next trip, consider the length of the trip, the number of people you are traveling with, and what you plan on packing.

Also, be sure to take into account the cost of the luggage as well as its durability. If you are still unsure which size is right for you, Louis Vuitton offers a variety of sizes to choose from.

Now that you know the different sizes and costs of LV luggage, you can decide which piece is right for you. Bon, voyage!

Picture in this post is by Filipp Romanovski on Unsplash

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The Ultimate Louis Vuitton Size Guide: Cabas, Keepall, Neverfull, Speedy

Shopping for a Louis Vuitton bag online can be a bit tricky because each model comes in several sizes. Also, Louis Vuitton’s sizes are acronyms and numbers, and it can be difficult to understand the difference between the sizes.

We’ve put together this guide to help you determine which size is the best choice for you. You’ll find the dimensions, carrying capacity, and photo references of 4 popular Louis Vuitton bags - the Cabas, Keepall, Neverfull, and Speedy.

With the help of this guide, you’ll be able to pick the right size bag and feel confident you made the best choice.

The Cabas bag comes in 3 sizes: Piano, Mezzo, and Alto

Dimensions:

Width: 12 in.

Length: 4.9 in.

Height: 9.8 in.

The Piano is the smallest Cabas bag. Although it’s a “small” bag, its size is comparable to what most would consider a medium size handbag.

It’s roomy, but not oversized, and could easily carry the following items with a little room to spare for some smaller items:

• Large wallet
• Eyeglasses case
• Small makeup bag with the basics (mascara, foundation, eyeliner, lipstick, small eyeshadow pallet)
• Hand lotion

Width: 15 in.

Length: 6.1 in.

Height: 13 in.

Mezzo is the next size down from Alto. The biggest difference between the two is the width, with Mezzo’s being 5 inches shorter.

The Mezzo is a little more practical than the Alto as an everyday bag. It’s still a large bag, but it’s perfect for someone who likes to carry their entire life in their purse.

You can easily carry all of the following items in a Mezzo:

• Medium sized makeup bag
• Pair of flats
• Medium sized notebook
• Several smaller items (eyeglass case, another smaller makeup bag, etc)

Unlike the Alto, the Mezzo does have a zipper.

Width: 20 in

Length: 6.25 in

Height: 14 in

Alto is the largest Cabas bag. At 20 inches wide and 14 inches deep, it’s an ideal size for an overnight, beach, or school bag. It could easily fit a large item (extra set of clothes, beach towel, or laptop) and still have room for several more smaller items.

While it would work as a carry-on, keep in mind that the Alto does not have a zipper. There’s always a risk that your things could fall out of the bag if you’re asked to put it in an overhead bin on your flight.

The Keepall comes in 4 sizes: 45, 50, 55, 60.

To help you get a better idea of the amount you can pack into each bag, you’ll find a potential packing list of items that would fit into each bag. However, each person has a unique packing style, and these lists are meant to be guidelines - not guarantees.

Width: 17.7 in.

Length: 7.9 in.

Height: 10.6 in.

The 45 is the smallest of the Keepall luggage collection, and the perfect size bag for an overnight stay or a trip to the gym. If you’re a light packer, you may get away with using it for a weekend trip - but we’d recommend going with a larger size. The Keepall 45 does meet size requirements for carry-ons for most airlines.

Here’s what you could fit into a Keepall 45:

• Pair of jeans
• Couple of shirts
• Pair of shoes
• Smaller toiletries

Width: 19.7 in.

Length: 8.7 in.

Height: 11.4 in.

The Keepall 50 gives you an extra inch in width, length, and height than the 45. While it seems insignificant, you’d be surprised how much of a difference it makes in carrying capacity. The 50 is the better option for a weekend trip and will give you some wiggle room for a few smaller items. As with the Keepall 45, the 50 also meets the size requirements for carry-on luggage for a majority of airlines.

Here’s what you could fit into a Keepall 50:

• 2 pairs of pants
• 2 lightweight sweatshirts
• 2 pairs of shoes
• Make-up bag
• Full size lotion
• Curling iron

Width: 21.7 in.

Length: 9.4 in.

Height: 12.2 in.

The Keepall 55 is largest of the Keepall collection that meets carry on size requirements for most major airlines. But, don’t worry - this bag can easy get you through a 3-4 day trip.

Here’s what you can fit into a Keepall 55:

• 4 pairs of pants
• A lightweight coat
• Several tops
• Large/medium makeup bag
• Full-size toiletries

Width: 23.6 in.

Length: 10.2 in.

The 60 is the largest Keepall and is too large to meet the carry-on requirements for most airlines. However, if you typically take week-long trips, this bag is your best bet. You can get a weeks worth of clothes into the Keepall 60 and still have a little room to spare for an extra pair of shoes and accessories.

Here’s what you can fit into a Keepall 60:

• 5 pairs of jeans
• Large make-up bag
• Full size toiletries
• 3 pairs of shoes
• Additional accessories (belts, extra purse, jewelry)

The Neverfull comes in 3 sizes: PM, MM, GM

Neverfull PM

Width: 11.4 in.

Length: 5.1 in.

Height: 8.7 in.

The PM is the smallest of the Neverfull line but is has plenty of room for the necessities. It’s ideal for someone who likes enough room for a few “extras” without having to carry a huge bag.

You’ll have no problem carrying a large wallet, sunglass case, small makeup bag, hand lotion, and even a small tablet in the Neverfull PM.

Neverfull MM

Width: 12.6 in.

Length: 6.7 in.

The MM gives you roughly an extra inch in width and length and almost 2 extra inches in height. Along with the basics mentioned above, you can fit a few additional items into the Neverfull MM - like a large pair of headphones, a full-size iPad, and a small notebook.

Neverfull GM

Width: 15.7 in.

The GM is the largest bag in the Neverfull line. With roughly two additional inches in width, length, and height, the GM is much larger compared to the PM and MM. It’s the perfect bag for work, as it can easily fit a MacBook, its charger, a notebook, wallet, and small makeup bag.

It could also serve as a great overnight or bag with plenty of room for an extra pair of clothes and shoes. Like the Cabas Alto, the Neverfull GM does not a have a zipper, so use caution if you use it as a carry on bag. If you’re asked to put it in an overhead bin on your flight, your things could fall out.

The Speedy comes in 4 sizes: 25, 30, 35, 40

Width: 9.8 in.

Length: 5.9 in.

Height: 7.5 in.

The Speedy 25 is the perfect everyday bag. With a width of almost 10 inches, there’s plenty of room for all the necessities. You can easily fit a large wallet, sunglass case, small hand lotion, small makeup bag, and cell phone.

Width: 11.8 in.

Height: 8.3 in.

With an extra inch in length and height and an additional 2 in width, the Speedy 30 is ideal for someone who needs to carry a few larger items in addition to the necessities. There’s enough room for small books, a water bottle, and a small umbrella.

Width: 13.8 in.

Length: 7.1 in.

Height: 9.1 in.

The Speedy 35 is a large bag, but could still serve well as an everyday bag if you like to carry several larger items. It can easily hold all the necessities, a notebook, a small makeup bag, water bottle, tablet, and even an extra pair of flats.

If you carry a laptop, the Speedy 35 isn’t the best choice. An average sized laptop will not fit into the Speedy 35, but an iPad will with room to spare.

It’s a great carry on if you like to travel with several magazines, books, water bottle, and snacks.

Length: 7.5 in.

The biggest difference between the Speedy 35 and 40 is the extra 2 inches in width. If you want to use a Speedy as an overnight bag, the 40 is your best bet.

The Speedy 40 can be used as a work bag, as it will fit a 13-15 inch laptop. However, those who carry the Speedy 40 have said that while a laptop fits, it looks awkward and makes the bag feel too heavy.

The 40 will work well as an overnight bag. You can back a pair of shoes, two shirts, a pair of pants, a makeup bag, undergarments, and a curling iron.

Think Beyond Size When Shopping for Your Louis Vuitton Bag:

Choosing the right size is important, but there are other important considerations to think through before you choose the right bag.

While you may feel drawn to a bag because of its style, it’s important to think about all the ways you’ll need to use your bag.

For example, do you need a bag that can serve as a gym bag and an occasional carry on? If so, the Cabas Mezzo may not be the best choice because it doesn’t have a zipper, and you may want to consider the Speedy instead.

Final advice:

When in doubt, go up a size. It’s better to have too much room than not enough.

Still can’t decide? We can help. Contact us with any questions or to get an expert opinion.

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Adorned with the iconic Monogram or Damier motif, the Neverfull epitomizes timeless elegance and functionality as an everyday essential. Continually reimagined, the signature model is offered in signature colorway or a unique seasonal flair.

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Originally launched in 1930 as the "Express", inspired by the era's rapid transit, the Speedy bag is a timeless model from the Maison. Effortlessly sophisticated, the silhouette is unmistakable with its cylindrical form, rolled leather handles, and engraved padlock.

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• Handle: Single

The reference is either Made in France, Spain, Italy or in the US.

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Searching for signs of the Soviets in St Petersburg

Built from scratch by the tsars, imperial St Petersburg was at the epicentre of the Russian Revolution. Harriet Green scours its streets for Lenin’s legacy

F rom the counter, where a woman is pouring buckets of tea into an urn, the queue snakes as far as the front door and out into the street: students, businessmen, women in Prada – and one very elderly, bent lady clutching a paper bag and munching doughnuts. Welcome to the Pyshki cafe, purveyor of greasy Soviet-era doughnuts, treacly tea and service most definitely without a smile since 1953.

How the place has survived is anybody’s guess. Pyshki is on Bolshaya Konyushennaya street, one of the most fashionable in St Petersburg, home to Dior, Louis Vuitton and Prada. Virtually next door is DLT, once the First State Department Store, now the city’s answer to Harvey Nichols, stuffed with designer labels. “Milan prices,” boasts the sign on the door, hinting at the effect of international sanctions imposed since the start of Russia’s conflict with Ukraine.

I’ve come to St Petersburg curious to see what Russians themselves think of the revolution that started in this great city a century ago next year. Do they think of it at all – or is it just something best forgotten?

We have a guide (not compulsory to have one, but helpful, as many sites cater poorly for English speakers). Elena has brought us to Pyshki for a short break from sightseeing. She reddens with embarrassment as the woman at the counter sloshes tea cheerlessly into our polystyrene cups, and tells us her mother adores the place because it reminds her of her childhood. For many older people, Elena elaborates, the Soviet days seem a simpler time – if choice and opportunity were limited, at least people didn’t worry so much about money. They knew where they stood. For people like Elena’s mother, these doughnuts – still warm from the fryer – are so much more than pastries.

Unlike Elena’s mother, young Russians see the anniversary as largely irrelevant, to be remembered only with a kind of kitsch nostalgia, if at all. At the Museum of Soviet Arcade Games , clunky vintage slot machines, using real Soviet kopeks, are played by Russian teens for whom even the fall of the Berlin Wall is ancient history. I look at them and reflect that even their parents were young when my hotel, the historic Angleterre , was pulled down in 1987 (and later rebuilt), leading to the first mass demonstration in the Soviet era to go unpunished.

The tourist trail in St Petersburg is all about the tsars – the palaces of Peter and Catherine the Greats, the French architecture, Renaissance masterpieces, Fabergé eggs, the gold, the jewels. Less visited is a tiny wooden cabin on the banks of the Neva built for Peter in just three days in 1703. Here he lived for six years, on mosquito-infested marshland, while presiding over the building of the city from nothing – a coastal city that would give Russia vital access to Europe. The hut was not much loved by the tsarina, who also had to live in it, but it is one of the most memorable city sites. It’s tiny – just three rooms – and breathtakingly modest. Lacking access to stone, Peter had his workers paint the wooden exterior to look like brick, with horizontal rows of white separated by thin strips of red paint. In 1723, he had it encased in a red brick pavilion, and ordered that it be preserved for posterity, with many of his possessions, including an armchair he carved himself.

Nearby, at the Peter and Paul Fortress, the bones of the last tsar, Nicholas II, his wife Alexandra and their children were solemnly reburied in 1998 – in a service attended by members of the wider Romanov family. Our guide Elena is solemn when she points out the tombs – covered daily in fresh flowers – and describes their final bleak days in Ekaterinburg, where the family were killed by a Bolshevik firing squad. No one mentions that the Peter and Paul Fortress was where Leon Trotsky was incarcerated in 1905 – as was Lenin’s brother in 1887, after the attempted assassination of Alexander III.

At the tsars’ former Winter Palace, the vast eau-de-nil wedding cake on the banks of the Neva better-known as the Hermitage Museum , we skip from one gold and crystal room to another, gasping at the magnificent vulgarity. The splendour, the 18th-century bling, is almost overwhelming. (The BBC’s recent adaptation of War and Peace on the BBC gave some idea – and triggered a marked increase in British tourists.) In one room, everybody crowds round to gawp at a stunning golden Peacock Clock – fashioned by English jeweller James Cox and acquired for Catherine in 1781. Amid all this ornament there are incredible works: two Leonardos (both Madonnas) as good as any at the Louvre, and numerous Rembrandts, displayed in galleries where the alarms go off every few seconds, as one tourist after another gets too close.

We ask to see the rooms in the palace that were used by the provisional government – the mainstream politicians who held power from February to October 1917, after Nicholas II’s abdication. Elena whips us through chamber after almost deserted chamber of French classical paintings – to a small dining room. This is where the provisional government held its last meeting: on the mantelpiece, the clock is stopped at 2.10am – the moment the Winter Palace was taken by the Bolsheviks. The cruiser Aurora – docked nearby on the Neva – had fired a blank shot to signal the storming of the palace. The government quickly surrendered.

The next day, we visit the Aurora, where an expert explains animatedly how the events unfolded. There are pictures of sailors with red armbands raised high, gleaming shells and other weaponry from a century ago. The cruiser has recently been refitted, but as we are leaving, our guide says there was debate about whether to bother with any of the displays relating to the revolution. More interesting to most Russians are the Aurora’s exploits during the second world war.

As this suggests, the Soviet era is not suppressed in St Petersburg, but you could easily miss it. Here and there we see little hints: the odd plaque on a side street, commemorating where Lenin held some meeting or other. But what happens if you go looking for more? I do that at the Political Museum – once the home of Mathilde Kschessinska, a prima ballerina with the Imperial Ballet. Unquestionably talented, Kschessinska nevertheless owed much of her renown and wealth to her affairs with no fewer than three grand dukes of the Romanov family, including the future Nicholas II. This made her something of a target for the Bolsheviks: she lost her palace to Lenin and friends in April 1917, soon after Lenin returned to Russia.

Lenin’s desk has been preserved in the room that served as the office of the Communist party newspaper, Pravda. And he often made speeches from the nearby balcony, overlooking Kronverkskiy Prospekt. There’s much else here to absorb a keen historian – quantities of material relating to later leaders, notably Stalin – but this is one of several museums that seem not to expect visitors who aren’t Russian, or can’t read or speak the language.

The no-frills Russian Museum is likewise in a vast palace, but reeks of Soviet-era austerity. The grand façade is no less imposing than the British Museum’s in London: there are giant gates bearing imperial eagles. But to get in, visitors creep through a furtive, subterranean side-entrance. The interior is spartan.

This museum attracts far fewer overseas visitors than the Hermitage, which is a terrible shame, because it’s packed with art treasures depicting Russia from before the revolution, through the second world war and beyond the end of the Soviet era.

Works by Ilya Repin (1844-1930) – master social documentarist – hint at the shifts to come. In one room there’s his giant painting of the state council, finished in 1903 – the uniformed establishment soon to be overthrown. His Barge Haulers on the Volga brutally presents the miserable serfs, exhaustedly dragging a boat upstream. Further on, there’s a noticeable shift in 1917 and through the 1920s and beyond, as painters turned their attention from aristocracy to farmers and bus conductors.

Stepping outside the Russian Museum, I find early autumn sunshine sparkling on the city’s brightly painted buildings and busy waterways. It’s easy, for a moment, to think I’m in another European city with canals: Amsterdam or Venice. And St Petersburg is, of all Russian cities, the most European. For most of the time since it was founded, it was Russia’s capital, and even after the government was moved to Moscow in 1918, St Petersburg remained important. Like any former or current capital, it holds much that is beautiful, and much that is darker. Often there are both qualities in the same place.

Take the General Staff Building, a wing of the Hermitage , which rivals Tate Modern in London in its minimalist splendour. It has a breathtaking collection of impressionist and post-impressionist works: Cézannes, Van Goghs, Monets, Picassos, Toulouse-Lautrecs and Matisses. Many were collected by businessman Sergei Shchukin , to fill his Russian home. In one room he kept 16 of Gauguin’s Tahiti paintings. But the Soviets seized it all – Lenin himself signed the decree to expropriate the works – and Shchukin fled to France. Others, as we know, were not so lucky.

Or consider the Astoria hotel , by St Isaac’s Cathedral . The hotel was built in 1910 and, during the first world war, aristocrats threw extravagant parties in its ballroom. Rasputin came here to visit his married lovers. But in 1917, hand-to-hand fighting between Tsarists and Bolsheviks saw blood shed on the pavement outside and, within a couple of years, the hotel had become a popular bolthole for the revolutionaries – with Lenin taking advantage of its royal suite balconies to deliver yet more of his oratory. Renamed Leningrad in 1924, the city fell under siege in the second world war and the Astoria served as a hospital. But Hitler got word of the hotel’s former splendour and made plans to hold his victory party here – even going so far as to make up his invitations.

Hotel guests enjoying the finest luxury today might have no idea of this backstory. Does that matter? Some might laugh, finding kitsch where others see only horror. For me, it’s been a thrill to discover a beautiful city of great cultural significance, and to have to work hard for my lessons in revolutionary history. Others might be satisfied with less. In which case, I recommend a quick study of the brass plaques on the wall beside the Astoria’s elegant elevators. Without comment, these show the names of its many notable visitors. Among them: Elton John, Margaret Thatcher, Lenin and Rasputin. The trip was provided by Russia specialist Regent Holidays (020-3131 5562) which has a three-night stay at the Angleterre Hotel from £630pp or at the Hotel Dostoevsky from £480pp, based on two people sharing and including breakfast and flights from the UK. For 2017, Regent Holidays will be offering a seven-day guided tour combining the revolutionary highlights of St Petersburg and Moscow

Icons of Modern Art: The Shchukin Collection This collection’s arrival at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris is the first time these extraordinary paintings have been seen outside Russia. The exhibition comprises 130 major pieces – seized by Lenin in 1918 after Sergei Shchukin fled the country – with particular emphasis on Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Rousseau, Derain, Matisse and Picasso. 22 October to 20 February 2017

• St Petersburg holidays
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More on this story

St Petersburg: city of revolution turns itself around – again

10 of the best things to do in St Petersburg

Top 10 Soviet-era experiences in St Petersburg

What to see in Russia – readers’ travel tips

‘The hospitality drew me back’: the joy of the Caucasus

Trans-Siberian Railway: a view from Moscow to Vladivostok – a photo essay

10 top tips from our Moscow correspondent

Russia’s Golden Ring: day trips from Moscow into history and heritage

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THE 5 BEST Hotels with Kitchenette in St. Petersburg

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2. Staybridge Suites St. Petersburg Downtown, an IHG Hotel

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• Mint House St. Petersburg - Downtown
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