outer hebrides travel blog

Outer Hebrides Itinerary & Things To Do

A few weeks ago, my friend, Vicky Flip Flop , messaged me to ask if I fancied doing a road trip through the Outer Hebrides in Scotland.

After being stuck at home for months, I was 100% in. Before I knew it Vicky had booked our ferries and a few places to stay and we were on our way up to Scotland. The rest we would figure out as we went.

The Outer Hebrides , also known as the Western Isles, is a group of islands off the west coast of mainland Scotland. There are 15 inhabited islands and many more uninhabited ones. The main islands being Lewis & Harris, Uist, and Barra.

I’d never really thought about going to the Outer Hebrides, but having just returned, I’m now a huge fan! It was just what I needed – seclusion, nature, and adventure!

The Outer Hebrides are more beautiful than you can imagine, with a rare, tranquil, rugged sort of beauty that you don’t find very often. Just when you’ve seen the most stunning beach on the islands, you turn a corner and there’s another one.

So I wanted to share our Outer Hebrides itinerary, plus some ideas of the best things to do and see along the way to help you plan a trip of your own.

Please Note: We travelled through the Outer Hebrides in September 2020 when it was still under Coronavirus restrictions and a few places were still closed, but we still very much enjoyed exploring the islands all the same.

Please Note:  Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which will earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. Affiliate sales help with the running costs of this site, so thank you for your support!

Table of Contents

Planning a Trip to the Outer Hebrides in Scotland

Our Outer Hebrides Itinerary was as follows:

• Day 1: Home to Loch Lomond
• Day 2: Loch Lomond to Barra (via Oban)
• Day 3: Barra to Uist
• Day 4: Uist to Harris & Lewis
• Day 5: Exploring Lewis
• Day 6: Exploring Harris
• Day 7: Harris & Lewis to Glasgow (via the Isle of Skye -Inner Hebrides)
• Day 8: Glasgow to Home

I really enjoyed our trip and it felt like a real adventure. But knowing what I know now (and I reckon Vicky would say the same) if I did it again, I would do a couple of things differently.

I would probably spend an extra day in Barra. There isn’t a lot to do, but that’s half the point and the island is so beautiful it would have been nice to explore and relax a little more. I would have liked to do some kayaking here, had the weather been better.

I would also like to spend a night in Oban. It just looked like such a lovely place. If we’d had another night, we could have explored a bit more of Loch Lomond too.

And, although not the Outer Hebrides, I would have liked to have spent more time on the Isle of Skye. A few hours driving through is not enough. I think you need at least a day or two, to really make the most of it, so I’d add an extra night in Skye.

So basically, I would have liked 3 extra nights and my ideal Outer Hebrides itinerary would look something like this:

• Day 2: Loch Lomond to Oban
• Day 3: Oban to Barra
• Day 4: Barra
• Day 5: Barra to Uist
• Day 6: Uist to Harris & Lewis
• Day 7: Exploring Lewis or Harris
• Day 8: Exploring Lewis or Harris
• Day 9: Harris & Lewis to the Isle of Skye (Inner Hebrides)
• Day 10: Isle of Skye to Loch Lomond or Glasgow
• Day 11: Home

You can of course do shorter trips and you don’t have to island-hop as we did. You can just fly into one island and stay there.

If you do decide to go island hopping, you can start pretty much anywhere, but it makes sense to either start and end in Barra or Lewis, as they are at the top and bottom of the chain.

Alternatively, if you have longer (like an extra week or even two), at the end of your trip I think it would be really cool to get the ferry from Stornoway (Isle of Lewis) to Ullapool (mainland) and then drive the famous North Coast 500 route . You could then detour to explore the Orkney or even the Shetland Islands!

If you’re a foodie, check out the  Outer Hebrides Food Trail and Map . There’s also a foraging guide  if that’s your thing!

Getting To & Around the Outer Hebrides

The easiest way to get around the Outer Hebrides is with your own transport, whether it be a car, campervan, or bike. There is some public transport, but you’ll have a bit less freedom than you would driving yourself.

If you don’t want to take your own car, you could fly to the Outer Hebrides, either to Barra or Harris and Lewis, hire a car or campervan, and then make your way through the islands. Carhire Hebrides allow you to pick up a car in one location and drop it off in another.

You can fly into Barra, Benbecula, or Stornoway with local airline Loganair .

To get from island to island, the best way is to take the Cal Mac ferries that run pretty frequently. Ferries from the mainland leave from Oban, Ullapool, Mallaig, or the Isle of Skye. If you’re in a car/campervan, it’s definitely better to book in advance as there are limited spaces. Foot passengers have a lot more flexibility.

Another popular activity is cycling the Hebridean Way which goes from top to bottom of the islands and we met a few people doing this whilst we were there.

Don’t want to go it alone? Rabbies has a 6-day tour to the Outer Hebrides and the Isle of Skye .

Where to Stay in the Outer Hebrides

There are lots of great places to rest your head in the Outer Hebrides, from campsites with facilities and wild camping, to beautiful hotels and glamping pods. Having your own campervan or tent definitely gives you an extra bit of flexibility. You can hire a campervan from Hebridean Campers or perhaps hire one on the mainland to bring over to the Hebrides.

If you do decide to go wild camping, make sure you are prepared with the right equipment. You will also need to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code . For some tips on how best to go about it, my partner in crime, Vicky, has written a great post about everything you need to know before wild camping in the Outer Hebrides . She also took the great drone shots and pictures of me, so thank you Vicky!

I’ve listed some of the best places to stay under each location below, but just note that many of these will book up in advance and some have a 2-night minimum, so plan accordingly. We also struggled to book into some places as we weren’t from the same household (due to Covid-19).

Cost of Travelling to the Outer Hebrides

You can make your trip to the Outer Hebrides as expensive or as cheap as you like.

I reckon Vicky and I spent around £450 each on our trip, including petrol, transport (ferries), food, and accommodation. That included a mix of camping and hotels. We spent nothing on activities (as some were closed and we also didn’t have tons of time).

However, you could easily spend a lot more than we did if you’re hiring cars and staying in fancier hotels. Or you could spend a lot less if you’re wild camping/camping and cooking for yourself the whole time.

When to Visit the Outer Hebrides

You can visit the Outer Hebrides all year. The weather in Scotland is never guaranteed, so even if you go in summer it can rain or be cold. The British summertime tends to be the busiest time of year when the schools are on holiday.

Just be prepared for all weather, and know that it rains a lot and is very windy due to the island’s position out on the Atlantic Ocean.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides

Vicky and I left my house in North West England early in the morning, today was mostly going to be a driving day as we headed towards Loch Lomond in Scotland.

Now, I have to give a special mention to Tebay Services on the M6, my favourite service station in the UK! I love Tebay, although every time I go (and that’s quite often as it’s less than an hour from my house) I end up spending a fortune on artisan biscuits or specialist cheese in their farm shop.

Vicky and I picked up some cheese, chutney, crackers, gin in a tin, and we were set.

Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park

On the way to our accommodation for the night, we stopped at the Loch Lomond Visitors Centre at Balloch. We had a little walk around and although it wasn’t a highlight of the trip for me, kids might enjoy the Sea Life Aquarium or the Loch Lomond Bird of Prey Centre .

We also visited the village of Luss , which is the cutest little village you can imagine. We had a walk around, bought ourselves some tartan face masks, and took a stroll down the dock on Loch Lomond where we saw a beautiful rainbow! Scotland always has so many rainbows!

Our last stop was the village of Ardlui and the Ardlui Hotel, where we grabbed a drink in the bar and Vicky had the chance to fly her drone over the loch before we made our way to our accommodation for the night.

Loch Lomond is on the West Highland Way , one of Scotland’s most-loved walking trails, so in the morning we took the chance to have a little walk along the path before we left for Oban.

Further on, we stopped at a parking spot and took a little walk down to the water of Lochawe. Now I can’t tell you exactly where this was, but I’m glad we stopped for a little explore as we came across a perfect mirror lake.

If you have some time, there are lots of great activities in Loch Lomond , including wonderful walks, boat trips, paddleboarding, and kayaking.

Where to Eat Around Loch Lomond:

• The Village Rest : This was our lunch stop in Luss and it was really nice!
• The Real Food Cafe : We stopped here for a bacon, egg, and cheese butty! Highly recommended by me and Vicky! Yum!
• TJ’s Diner : We didn’t eat here, but it gets good reviews and is right next door to The Real Food Cafe.

Where To Stay Around Loch Lomond:

• Pine Trees Leisure Park : We stayed at Pine Trees Leisure Park in one of their hiker huts. This was a great little place to stay. The hut was basic and you need to bring a sleeping bag and pillow, but the huts have heating, electricity points and a kettle so were super cosy. The bathrooms were a short walk away and the showers nice and hot! Just don’t confuse it with the one in Skegness.
• Strathfillan Wigwam Village : Nearby we saw signs for the Strathfillan WigWam Village which also looks pretty cool but Loch Lomond covers a big area, so there are plenty of great places to choose from.
• Lomond Woods Holiday Park : Down at the bottom of Loch Lomond, you’ll find the highly rated Lomond Woods Holiday Park.
• Bonnie Banks Lodge Ardlui : Gorgeous lodge, set right on the lake. Sleeps 6.
• Wild Camping: If you want to wild camp you will need to get a permit (unlike in the Outer Hebrides, you can’t just camp for free) and follow the rules of the park!

You can check out some other great options  here .

Outer Hebrides Road Trip Itinerary

We next headed to Oban where we would catch the CalMac ferry to Barra in the Outer Hebrides.

We had a few hours before we were due to board, so we parked up and had a little wander around town. I liked Oban immediately and wish that we had a bt more time there.

There were lots of souvenir shops, whiskey shops, the Highland Soap Co. (great for Christmas presents, and treating yourself) as well as a large number of outdoor shops – great if you need to buy supplies for your trip to the Outer Hebrides. There were also some nice pubs and restaurants, which included a lot of seafood places.

A popular activity is to take a tour of the Oban Whiskey Distillery which is often booked up in advance.

Where To Eat & Drink in Oban:

• Cuan Mor : This looked like a really nice, modern bar/restaurant.
• The Fisherman’s Kitchen : Oban’s No.1 rated restaurant.
• Etive Restaurant : For a treat, try the very highly rated Etive Restaurant.
• Food from Argyll at The Pier : This is Tripadvisor’s best pick in Oban for a quick bite to eat.
• Local Shellfish : Down by the ferry office, this place had big queues, which means it’s probably really good and it gets good ratings on Tripadvisor. They did a big platter which looked fab… if only I liked shellfish.

Where To Stay in Oban:

• Fisherman’s Kitchen : You can stay at The Fisherman’s Kitchen as an all-inclusive deal with dinner included.
• The Whiskey Vaults : Highly rated and in the centre of town, close to the action.

Barra & Vatersay

Leaving Oban we travelled by ferry to Castlebay on the island of Barra, our first stop on our Outer Hebrides island-hopping adventure along with the tiny neighbouring island of Vatersay.

Barra is often nicknamed Barra-dise or Barra-bados and it was easy to see why people fall in love with the place. These were the quietest of the islands we visited and stunningly beautiful, with beaches that look like they came right from the Caribbean.

It would have been lovely to spend an extra day here and do some of the water-based activities. Unfortunately, it was too windy the day we were there, but you might have more luck.

Speaking of windy… if you missed my section on the weather above, if you are camping in the Outer Hebrides, make sure you are well prepared as we almost lost our tent a couple of times and didn’t get much sleep on the nights we were camping!

Clearwater Paddling

A friend of mine highly recommended, taking a trip with Clearwater Paddling . She had beautiful weather when she went a few years ago and paddled over to a seal colony and saw puffins. Am I jealous… yep, lil’ bit!

Isle of Barra Surf & Coastal Adventures

Isle of Barra Surf & Coastal Adventures also runs a few different activities including surfing, snorkelling with seals, coasteering, and kayaking.

Barra Bike Hire

If you don’t have your own wheels, or even if you do, hiring a bike from Barra Bike Hire would be a great way to see the Isle of Barra, especially as it’s quite small and the roads are quiet.

Barra is also the beginning of the great Hebridean Way, a famous walking and biking trail through the Outer Hebrides.

Hebridean Sea Tours

Hebridean Sea Tours run trips around Barra and to some of the islands in the surrounding area including the abandoned island of St Kilda.

Barra Airport

Whilst I would usually consider myself much of a plane spotter, Vicky and I made our way up to  Barra Airport  to see one of the daily flights coming in.

Why? Because Barra is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach. Pretty cool, hey? And it’s just been voted the 5th most scenic airport in the world! Plus, if you fly in, you’ll get the bird’s eye view of this paradise island!

My favourite thing that we did whilst staying on Barra was taking a trip to the island of Vatersay, the southern-most inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides.

To get to Vatersay, you take a short drive from Barra, and once there, just head off and explore. We spent most of our time on a beach called Traigh a Bhaigh where Vicky was able to set off the drone and get some stunning pictures.

The waters are crystal clear (perfect for swimming, if a little chilly), the sand clean and white, and there were cows just wandering down the beach. It was really idyllic.

From here you can walk away from the beach, over the road, and across the dunes to the other side where another gorgeous beach awaits.

Kisimul Castle

The ancient seat of the Clan MacNeil, the ‘Castle in the Sea’ was closed when we were there due to Covid-19 restrictions, but usually, you can visit to learn about its history and climb up to the top for panoramic views over Castle Bay. You can find out more from the Isle of Barra Heritage Centre .

The Isle of Barra Distillers Co.

Whilst on the island you could pick up a bottle of locally made Barra Atlantic Gin . They usually offer tours from March to September on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

Barra & Vatersay – Useful Info

Getting There: We took the CalMac car ferry from Oban on the mainland to Castlebay on the Island of Barra. You can also fly into Barra with Loganair and land on one of the world’s only beach runways.

Travel Time: 5.5 hours

Where To Eat & Drink on Barra:

• Cafe Kismul : We enjoyed a really nice meal at this Indian/Italian restaurant. It’s in the centre of the main village, near to the post office and ATM. It’s only small so you may be best to make a reservation.
• Castlebay Bar : This seems to be the nightlife on the island.
• Hebridean Toffee Factory & the Deck Cafe : We only stopped here for a bacon butty (didn’t try the toffee), but it was pretty good and this is where we picked up the cool tourist map you see on the photos.
• Bùth Bharraigh : A nice little visitor centre and shop selling food, souvenirs, and useful things like extra tent pegs. They also had a good selection of dairy and gluten-free items, something I always notice!
• Barra Airport Cafe : If you get peckish whilst waiting for the plane to come in, grab some food or a drink at the airport cafe.
• Co-Op: If you’re self-catering, there’s a Co-Op in town where you can stock up.

Where To Stay in Barra:

• Wavecrest Campsite : We stayed at this campsite, which was really nice and cheap at £10 and with an amazing view. £15 if you need access to power. There are showers, toilets, and a kettle, but not much else in the way of facilities.
• Dunard Hostel : A few of the other people we met on the ferry were staying here, which was right in the centre of town, close to the ferry. This seems to be the popular backpacker’s choice!
• Isle of Barra Beach Hotel : In case you don’t fancy camping or hostelling. They also hire out electric bikes.
• Vatersay Old School : A gorgeous self-catering option on Vatersay Island.

From the north of Barra, we took the ferry to Eriskay, part of Uist, a larger group of islands which consists of Eriskay, South Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, Flodaigh, Grimsay, North Uist, Baleshare, and Berneray.

To be honest, we didn’t see much whilst we were here as we only had less than 24 hours, most of which was spent sleeping, eating, and driving, but if you have more time, there are lots of great things to do!

Culla (Cula) Bay Beach

We spent the night wild camping next to gorgeous Culla Bay Beach in Benbecula. Once again, the wind was howling, so our wild camping expedition wasn’t quite as successful as we’d hoped, but if you were better prepared it might be a great camping spot.

Visit St Kilda

Uist is a great jumping-off point to visit the uninhabited island of St Kilda. There are a few companies that run tours throughout the Outer Hebrides including Uist Sea Tours . Highlights of the tours include spotting bottlenose dolphins and puffins.

There are a few nice walks on Uist, including the stunning Udal Peninsula (approx. 3 hours), North Lee (approx. 4 – 5 hours), the Barpa Langass and the Stone Circle and Vallay Island (approx. 30 mins at low tide, but just be very careful to come back before high tide or you’ll be stranded).

Traigh Iar & the Beaches

Traigh Iar beach is a favourite in the area. Other great beaches include Clachan Sands, Hosta, Traigh Ear, and of course, Traigh Udal (Udal Peninsula).

Go Horse Riding

Uist is home to the Uist Community Riding School , and I can’t imagine few things feeling as good as riding a horse on one of these gorgeous, white sand beaches! Just look at the photos!

Go Otter Spotting

Otters might just be the cutest creatures in the world, and there are a number of places to spot them on Uist and in other parts of the Outer Hebrides. You can find a list of places here .

Balranald Nature Reserve

Bird lovers will enjoy a trip to the Balranald Nature Reserve in North Uist. Species found there include barnacle goose, corn bunting, corncrake, lapwing, and turnstone. Spring is a great time to visit. They offer guided walks during the summer months.

Uist – Useful Info

Getting There: We took the CalMac car ferry from Aird Mhor Barra Ferry Terminal on the Island of Barra to Eriskay, an island in the south of Uist. We then drove throughout the islands using our own car. There is also an airport at Benbecula.

Travel Time: 40 minutes.

Where To Eat & Drink on Uist :

• Charlie’s Bistro (Benbecula) : We ate dinner at Chalie’s Bistro in Benbecula. The food was really nice and the owner Ian was super helpful and gave us lots of info! We also tasted some of the local Downpour Gin, made at the North Uist Distillery Co.  As gin’s go, this was super tasty and had a really smooth, distinctive taste – definitely recommended.
• Namara Cafe (Grimsay) : Delicious seafood restaurant.
• Westford Inn (North Uist) : Pub food with a great craft beer and gin selection. Currently best rated on Tripadvisor.
• Hamersay House (North Uist) : Brasserie style restaurant using the freshest local ingredients.
• Lochmaddy Hotel (North Uist) : Great selection of food including all the usual favourites. Good selection for veggies and vegans.
• Taigh Chearsabhagh (North Uist) : Great cafe located at the Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre.
• Langass Lodge (North Uist) : Well-rated restaurant with evening meals served from 6pm.
• The Dunes Cabin (North Uist): This food truck at the Balranald Hebridean Holidays site near to the Balranald Nature Reserve.
• Berneray Shop & Bistro (Berneray) : We stopped here to buy some toastie making supplies but unfortunately didn’t get a chance to eat at the bistro as it was too early – opens at 12pm.

Where To Stay in Uist:

• Uist Storm Pods (South Uist) : I love a good glamping holiday and these pods look like the perfect place to escape the elements, overlooking the loch towards South Lochboisdale.
• Uisinis Bothy (South Uist) : Free bothy, however, you need to call ahead during the stag stalking season.
• Uist Forest Retreat (North Uist) : Luxury treehouse accommodation. These look like the dream and where I would stay if I went back!
• Westford Inn (North Uist) : Great little cottage/bothy. Also with the best-rated restaurant on the island.
• The Tractor Shed Camping Pods & Bunkhouse (North Uist) : Lovely glamping pods, the site fits up to 24 guests.
• Lochmaddy Hotel (North Uist) : Nice, well-appointed rooms with a great restaurant and views looking over to the bay to the Isle of Skye.
• Hamersay House (North Uist) : Comfortable rooms overlooking Lochmaddy Harbour.
• Langass Lodge (North Uist) : Traditional style lodge, with views across the loch to Eaval.
• Balranald Hebridean Holidays (North Uist) : Campsite with electric hookups, as well as a glamping pod and a small cottage.
• John’s Bunkhouse (Berneray) : A popular spot is the famous John’s Bunkhouse on Berneray. This is nice and close to the ferry port if you have an early start over to Lewis and Harris.

Isle of Harris

From Berneray Island in the north of Uist we took the ferry to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris, part of Lewis & Harris, the main island of the Outer Hebrides.

Harris is the southern third of the island and Lewis is the northern two-thirds of the island. You would say the ‘Isle of Lewis’ and the ‘Isle of Harris’ but they are attached and not two separate islands.

One thing to realise is that Lewis and Harris is much bigger than you think, so give yourself enough time to explore.

We spent 3 nights on Lewis and Harris. The first day was mostly spent driving to our accommodation which was in quite a remote location of Lewis.

We then dedicated a day to explore Lewis and a day to explore Harris. If I were to do it again, I probably would have given a little bit more time to Lewis, even an extra half a day as we were quite rushed.

Depending on where you are departing from (usually Stornoway for Ullapool or Tarbert for the isle of Skye), I would try to spend at least your final night close to the ferry to make it easier and then plan around that accordingly.

We stayed in both Lewis and Harris, with 2 nights in Lewis and 1 in Harris.

Clements Church

South of the ferry terminal is Rodel where you’ll find St Clements Church, built around 1520. A photograpers favourite.

The Golden Road

Landing in Leverburgh, we drove what is known as the ‘Golden Road’. This runs from Rodel in the far south up to Tarbert, a port town in the middle of Harris.

As the weather was bad this day, we decided to skip the beaches – luckily we had 3 nights on the island so we had this option.

However, if you do have nice weather, it might be a great time-saver to see these beaches as you are passing, rather than having to double back like we did. Or there are lots of nice accommodation options around here if you decide to stay.

Isle of Harris Sea Tours

Our plan had been to do a tour with Isle of Harris Sea Tours . But again, the weather wasn’t so great, so we decided to give it a miss this time. Trips depart from Tarbert to various locations around the islands.

They are also part of Kilda Cruises  who offer tours to the abandoned, remote island of St Kilda.

Seilebost Beach

Seilebost (said more like Shul-e-bost in Gaelic, or at least that’s how it sounded to me) Beach was one of the many gorgeous beaches we visited whilst in Lewis and Harris.

It was incredibly windy though! To get there, you park up, and then it’s a little walk over the dunes to get to the beach, this includes quite a steep drop down the sand dunes to get onto the beach so it wouldn’t be suitable for wheelchairs, at least not from this access point anyway.

Luskentyre Beach

Luskentyre was by far the busiest beach of the trip, probably because it’s gorgeous and it was a lot calmer than Seilebost, so perfect for swimming!

Just down the road (you’ll pass it on the way), there is a cute little hut that was working on an honesty box system. We bought coffee and chocolates and made ourselves a little beach picnic, which was great until the rains came in.

We tried to shelter under the picnic blanket but ended up abandoning the beach. And what do you know? It was sunny again by the time we got back to the car. Scottish weather is bonkers!

Have a Round of Golf

I’m not a golfer, but my husband is and the golf course at Scarista ( Isle of Harris Golf Club ) is likely to be one of the most beautiful you’ll ever come across – let’s just hope the weather holds out!

Eilean Glas Lighthouse, Scalpay

On the other side of Tarbert, on the island of Scalpay (driveable), you’ll come to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse.

You can’t drive all the way there, so you’ll need to park, and then it’s a little bit of a hike (around 20 – 30 minutes) to the lighthouse. There are also a number of longer walks around the peninsular too.

We spent our last night on the islands in Tarbert which is where the ferry departs to the Isle of Skye.

In Tarbert, you can visit the Harris Distillery & Shop . They usually do tours, but they weren’t running at the time of our visit.

You can also stock up on some of the famous Harris Tweed in the Harris Tweed Shop  which is across the road.

Isle of Harris – Useful Info

Getting There: We took the CalMac car ferry from Berneray in Uist to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris. Lewis and Harris are one island split into two halves.

Travel Time: 1 hour

Where To Eat & Drink on the Isle of Harris :

• Harris Hotel (Tarbert): We had a lovely meal here. I had the Cullen Skink and Fish & Chips, both were excellent (ps. I’ve never eaten so much fish & chips in my life as I did on this trip, it was fab).
• Taste n’ Sea food Truck (Loch Seaforth) : Overlooking Loch Seaforth, this was a fantastic find. Both Vicky and I had the fish and chips (again), with homemade tartar sauce and she had a bowl of Cullen Skink too – which I didn’t try this time, but she assures me was very good.
• Sam’s Seafood Shack (Rodel) : Food truck in Rodel with amazing reviews.
• Butty Bus (Leverburgh) : Great for a quick bite, near to the Leverburgh ferry port.
• An Traigh (Seilebost) : Great place for lunch and afternoon tea. Amazing views.
• Scarista House (Scarista) : Beautiful hotel and restaurant, great for a romantic night.

Where To Stay on the Isle of Harris:

• Harris Hotel (Tarbert) : We stayed here on our last night as we’d heard a storm was brewing. It was cosy and they had a nice restaurant. A great place to relax.
• Hotel Hebrides (Tarbert) : This is a more modern hotel, situated right next to the ferry in Tarbert.
• Kirklea Island Suites (Tarbert) : Gorgeous apartments right near the ferry.
• Sandy Bay Croft Wigwams (Scarista) : We drove past these and they looked incredible with great views over the beaches.
• West Harris Trust (Various Locations) : The West Harris Trust have a number of great camping spots on the island, close to Seilebost and Luskentyre beaches.
• Fir Chlis (Seilebost Beach) : Gorgeous self-catering home, overlooking Seilebost Beach. One of the top picks on the Isle of Harris.
• Borve Lodge Estate (Borve) : If you really want to treat yourself, stay at one of the gorgeous lodges on the Borve Lodge Estate.
• Horgabost Campsite (Borve) : On the beach, opposite the island of Taransay.
• Scaladale Centre (Loch Seaforth) : Hostel & activity centre, offering things like mountain biking, rock climbing, sea kayaking, and coasteering.
• Lickisto Blackhouse Camping (Lickisto) : Stay in your own tent, campervan or one of their gorgeous glamping yurts.

Isle of Lewis

We departed from our base in Cromore early in the morning to explore the Isle of Lewis. While the other islands had been more flat, Harris and Lewis were more hilly and barren looking, reminding me of England’s Lake District or the Scottish Highlands .

This was probably our biggest sightseeing day and might have been better split over a couple of days or a day and a half!

Mangersta Beach

We didn’t visit Mangersta Beach, but if you have more time, it does look amazing. With a number of sea stacks out in the water it’s a good place for photography.

Uig (Lewis) Chessmen & Uig Bay

We went to see the 12th Century Uig Chessmen, a chess set, calved from walrus ivory, found in Uig Bay in 1831.

What we didn’t realise is that the real chess pieces are on display in British Museum in London, and the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. What you see in Lewis is a replica statue, but it’s still pretty cool.

Uig Bay is an incredibly beautiful place to visit, with a huge sandy beach. There’s also the Uig Community Shop and Petrol Station if you need to stock up.

Seatrek also run boat tours departing from here, however, they aren’t running currently.

Reef Beech & the Circular Scenic Route

We took the Circular Scenic Route on the way to Reef Beach. This is a really nice, relatively short drive and Reef Beach is one of the prettiest around.

Bosta Beach, Great Bernera

My uncle’s parents came from the island of Great Bernera off the coast of Lewis, so I wanted to make a special trip out there to see the lovely Bosta Beach.

Again we found another amazing white sand and turquoise waters beach – they just kept getting better and better!

The Callanish Stones

The Callanish Stones are ancient, 5000-year-old stones from the  Neolithic era that were erected as a place of ritual and worship during the Bronze Age.

If you can work it into your itinerary (and you get the weather), it might be nice to be at the Callanish Stones around sunrise or sunset, as the illuminated sky will really make your photos look incredible!

Gearrannan Blackhouse Village

Sadly this was closed when we were in the area, but we drive past for a look anyway!

This is a traditional Hebridean village, located right on the coast, where you can stay or visit to learn about life in the Outer Hebrides.

Dalmore Beach (Traigh Dhail Mhor)

If you haven’t had enough of the beaches yet (and you probably never will), make your way to Dalmore Beach for more gorgeous views.

Stac a’ Phris Sea Arch

A little further around the coast, you’ll come to the Stac a’Phris Sea Arch on the West Side Coastal Path. Being on the west side, this is a popular place for sunset photography, so would make a nice final stop before heading back to Stornoway for dinner.

We got to Stornoway in the early evening. Stornoway is the capital of the Hebrides and where you’ll find most of the action.

We first had a walk around the harbour, followed by a drink at McNeill’s pub, ending with dinner in the Harbour Kitchen. Even though they were booked up, they fitted us in for an early dinner.

Vicky had the biggest pot of mussels I’ve ever seen (I think she counted 70+) and I had fish & chips (again). Both were fantastic and I’d highly recommend going here. Just make sure you book ahead as it’s very popular!

Isle of Lewis – Useful Info

Getting There: We drove from Harris, having taken the ferry from Uist to Harris. However you can also get the car ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway to do this trip in reverse. There’s also an airport in Stornoway.

Where To Eat & Drink on the Isle of Lewis :

• Harbour Kitchen (Stornoway) : We had dinner here and I’d highly recommend the food and the friendly service.
• Harris & Lewis Smokehouse (Stornoway) : We were set on eating here to sample their smoked salmon, but it was closed when we were there.
• Boatshed Restaurant (Stornoway) : Stylish restaurant at the Royal Stornoway Hotel.
• Uig Sands Restaurant (Uig) : Lovely restaurant overlooking Uig Sands, famous for their smoked salmon.

Where To Stay on the Isle of Lewis:

• Broad Bay House (Stornoway) : Gorgeous b&b just outside of Stornoway.
• Airbnb (Cromore): We stayed in this lovely Airbnb, in Cromore. It was a little bit out of the way, but really comfortable and the hosts were lovely.
• Otter Bunkhouse & Bothy (Uig) : Bunkhouse sleeping 8 people. Bothy sleeps 2 people.
• Otter Bay Pod (Stornoway) : Small and cosy pod near to Stornoway. Sleeps 2 adults and 2 kids, or 3 adults.
• Stornoway B&B (Stornoway) : Cosy b&b in the centre of Stornoway.
• The Hatchery (Tolstachaolais) : Gorgeous house, sleeps 4. Would be an amazing house to have over Christmas and New Year!
• Mangersta Croft Holidays (Mangersta) : Lovely glamping pods near Mangersta Beach.
• Gearrannan Blackhouse Village : Unique accommodation, great for groups.
• Eilean Fraoich Campsite (Shawbost) : Up in the north of Lewis, near to Gearrannan Blackhouse Village.

Leaving the Outer Hebrides

From the Outer Hebrides, you have a few different choices.

If you hired a car in the Hebrides, you can fly back to the mainland from Stornoway, Barra, or Benbecula. Or you can get the ferry from Tarbert (Isle of Harris) to Uig on the Isle of Skye and travel onwards from there. Skye joins onto the mainland, so you can easily make your way to Glasgow, Edinburgh, or Inverness.

Another option is to get the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool, which is a great place to begin exploring the Highlands, including the fabulous North Coast 500 drive.

I hope this helps you plan your itinerary and I hope you enjoy your trip to the Outer Hebrides! I loved my trip and can’t wait to go back again.

Other Scotland posts you might enjoy…

• 30 Things To Know Before You Drive Scotland’s NC500
• Scotland’s North Coast 500 Route Planner, Map & 1-Week Itinerary

I hope you enjoy your trip to the Outer Hebrides as much as I did!!!

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Hi. I may have missed it but some indication of the costs would have been really useful. I appreciate that everyone’s trip will be different (routes, eating preferences etc) but a general pointer would be great if possible. Many thanks

I think the trip cost me about £500 in total, but I didn’t keep a detailed record of the costs. We camped and stayed in cheap hotels, drove our own car etc, but like you say, everyone’s trip will be very different depending on whether you drive/fly, drive your own car or hire one, or whether you camp (wild or in campsites), stay in a campervan or stay in hotels, length of trip and how many activities you do.

But from all the information and website links I’ve put in the post, you should easily be able to work out your estimated costs based on your own preferences. 🙂

What an amazing blog on the Western Isles. We are determined to go and have been inspired by you. Thank you so much!

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Outer Hebrides Road Trip: Your 1 Week Itinerary for the Western Isles

If you want to experience the wilds of Scotland, a road trip through the Outer Hebrides is a great introduction. Here’s my itinerary to help you plan your Western Isles adventure.

Go on a road trip to the Outer Hebrides and you’ll avoid the crowds of the almighty North Coast 500, and get to see some of the most open and free parts of Scotland. 

I went to the Outer Hebrides with my friend and fellow travel blogger, Helen in Wonderlust. Sounds incredibly stupid now, but I hadn’t quite realised I’d planned a road trip to the Outer Hebrides, as I was going off Instagram pictures I’d seen. Genuinely thought I was going on a road trip to the Western Isles –  who knew it was the same thing, hey? 

Anyway, confession over, let me guide you through our Outer Hebrides road trip, so you can do the same (one day!). 

Click to see the Outer Hebrides Road Trip Route Map

This was our basic route for the Outer Hebrides road trip. I planned it two weeks before – the day before I went to Norfolk for four days – so, it was a skeleton of an idea, which we planned to flesh out while we were there. 

I’d originally planned more destinations, including Ullapool, but when it came to booking the ferries I realised it was just too much.

Just a warning, booking the ferries for our Outer Hebrides road trip was more complicated than I thought. Knowing the names of the ferry ports, planning the timings and connections, and then, knowing if they had space was harder than I planned. This probably took me about three hours, but with this guide you’ll be able to do it in way less.

More tips on actually booking the Outer Hebrides road trip below. 

So, let’s get onto the Western Isles road trip itinerary, shall we?

Day 1: Driving through Loch Lomond

After driving up from Portsmouth, where I live and about 275 miles away, the day before, we actually set off from Preston. Managed to swing by Tebay Services to drop £50 on snacks, as if we could afford it.

And, after a great drive through the Lake District , we were in Scotland . Kinda daunting how Google Maps told me it was just straight for 174 miles on the motorway, but at least it kept the instructions easy to follow.

Loch Lomond things to do 

I needed a break, and so we pulled up to  Loch Lomond Shores , at the south of Loch Lomond. It’s a small shopping centre with a Sea Life Centre and a park, and a watersports hire place. We had a look round, went to the toilet, and left – weren’t really feeling the vibe. 

Instead we drove north, to the village of Luss. It’s known as one of the cutest villages around Loch Lomond, and so we went for lunch at The Village Rest . A popular spot where I enjoyed an amazing jacket potato and veggie curry – delicious. I’d 100% recommend. 

We went for a wander around Luss. Ended up buying a Scottish face mask (it was September 2020), seeing a stunning rainbow over the pier, and admiring the cute houses, the village is known for. There was also a great gift shop, and a lovely little coffee shop too. Definitely worth a stop off. 

We’d toyed with the idea of visiting Loch Katrine around the lock , and going on a Loch Katrine cruise , but the weather was threatening to change and we decided we were too tired. It was in the wrong direction. If you can fit it in though, and it’s not 2020, then take a look. Pack your women’s parka coat to keep you warm if you want to do this – there are some great ones at Trespass !

We stopped at Ardui instead. Took the time for a local beer and a quick go with the drone, and carried on. The scenery was great. 

It would’ve been great to explore the Loch more, but with the weather and driving distances, we decided to crack on and get settled for the night. If you did want to do some more  driving round Loch Lomond, there are some great scenic drives listed there. 

Loch Lomond accommodation

I managed to freak myself out by obsessively reading weather reports, and so ended up booking a ‘mountain hut’ at the Pine Trees Holiday Park at the last minute. Loved it. Seriously. Wasn’t even annoyed that the weather was fine and we would’ve been ok to camp, like I’d planned.

For £20 each a night we got this cool hut, with an intense heater and just a few steps away from a shared bathroom, with great showers. The owner was great here and it backed onto the Wild Hebridean Way, which I totally plan to do one day.

I had a little walk on it here…

I had actually paid for the camping round Loch Lomond already, as you can’t wild camp in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, like you can in the rest of Scotland. We paid £3. The weather scared me though, and staying at Pine Trees meant we didn’t have to drive too far the next day to Oban either. 

Here’s a MAP of the spots around Loch Lomond so you can decide if you want to do it or not.

Day 2: Oban to Castlebay (Barra)

I was so happy that I only had an hour’s drive to Oban from our accommodation, rather than the two on the original plan.

We stopped off for breakfast at The Real Food Cafe , just a minute’s drive from Pine Trees. Super clean, tasty breakfast baps, and a dedication to supporting toilets in Malawi, means this is a no brainer. Go!

We were warm, fed, and ready to get to the Outer Hebrides. 

When you’re driving round the lochs in this area you’ll see lots of places to park up on the road, and passing places too – take advantage! We stopped off at Glen Lothy to find the reflection of Ben Cruachan on the water was particularly special that day. 

Arriving in Oban

We wanted to have time to look round Oban, so we didn’t stop too long. As soon as I arrived in Oban I wished we had longer , but then after three hours, I think that was about right. Unless you’re going in season and not in 2020 – then you could join a boat tour, or visit the distillery. 

On our visit in September 2020 we looked round the souvenir shops, admired the restaurants and mooched about the Scottish produce shops. We walked to the North Pier, and then the other pier, and went and took the car to the ferry in good time. 

My hot tip for Oban would be the fish market at the ferry terminal. NOT the one with the tartan on but right next to the terminal building. You’ll find it as there’s a huge queue outside. Great price seafood, and super popular. This would be a good place to pick up some Scotland souvenirs to remember your trip by.

The ferry from Oban to Castlebay (which is Barra’s main port) leaves at 13:40 and gets in at 18:25. Don’t be late as it cost almost £100 for a car and two passengers!

Check in closes 45 minutes before it’s scheduled leaving time. 

Oh, and it’s not the North Ferry Terminal. It’s much bigger than that and over the other side. If there aren’t road signs, you’re in the wrong place. Also, you can go about an hour early and park up there to avoid paying around the city.

Oban to Barra by ferry

The ferry from Oban to Barra takes 5 hours. My mum had warned me before that it was sickening and rocky, and I shrugged it off. Heading into hour three, and it turned out she was right, as usual .

I was so seasick I couldn’t move.

I’d gone to get a drink downstairs, and Helen was upstairs and I seriously couldn’t muster my legs to go back and tell her where I was. It was rough. 

As soon as we arrived I was fine.

Thankfully.

But just to warn you.

Castlebay, Barra

We arrived onto Barra, to wind and rain, and so went to put up our tent at the Wavecrest Campsite. The guy there gave us the bright idea of camping on the hill, to be more private. We didn’t realise then quite what a mistake of an idea that was. 

Tent up by the beach, all proud of ourselves, off we trotted into Castlebay for some food.

We went to Cafe Kisimul, an Indian/ Italian restaurant that comes very highly rated online. I went for a chicken jalfrezi – which was even more delicious considering it was about 8pm, and the rollercoaster of a day we had. We ended up staying till closing, getting as much electricity into our phones, and hot food in our bellies as possible. 

Accommodation in Barra

As I’ve said, it was September 2020, COVID times (although this was a break where we were allowed to travel!). All Outer Hebrides hotels I could find online were a two-night minimum, and they said different households weren’t allowed to mix, which is why we ended up camping.

There is a hostel you could try in normal times, called Dunard Hostel, which was in a great location. 

Wavecrest Campsite was really basic. Three toilets and two showers in an industrial tanker thing, and that was about it. No Wi-Fi. It was by the beach though, and not far from the town, and the two members of staff were lovely. 

We barely got a wink of sleep that night though, thanks to the howling gales, our flapping tent, and the worry we were about to be blown into the sea. 

All good fun though, right?!

READ MORE: Fun Games for Road Trips to Keep You Busy

Day 3: Vatersay and exploring Barra

Vatersay is a little island off Barra, with a population of just 90 people . It makes for a lovely slow drive to explore the island and see the amazing Outer Hebrides beaches surrounding .

Make Traigh a Bhaigh Beach your first port of call. It’s stunning.

The weather really made it for us, and the fact it was one of the few places in the whole Outer Hebrides road trip that I managed to get my drone up – so enjoy these pictures. 

There’s a cafe here that does operate, although not when we were there. Too early. You can park near here though and there are toilets when it’s open.

We just chilled on the beach, had a brew and admired the view. Would’ve loved a swim but also didn’t want to as we were camping. Spend as long as you can here!

We tried to drive round the island but you can’t actually go much further than this. Instead of driving on, you should walk over the dunes to Traigh Shiar Beach on the west coast. Gutted I missed it!

From here head off the island, and make sure you pull into Uidh Beach for pics. Again, more stunning coastline and views.

Back on Barra 

Any other time, you can enjoy Barra Surf Adventures Barra surf adventures – sea kayaking . There wasn’t any availability thanks to it being 2020, but just wanted to add it in here for future travels.

For brunch we headed to the Hebridean Toffee Cafe, where unfortunately they didn’t have any toffee ready for us to sample. Instead, we had two bacon sandwiches each. Needed it. 

If you do want toffee you can pop into the Buth Barraigh Community Shop. Here you’ll find all kinds of local treats and goodies. 

The big thing to do in Barra is to watch the plane come in on the only beach runway in the WORLD. We magically timed it just right and made it for the 12:15 arrival – felt like everyone in Barra was there waiting!

It was pretty impressive coming in. I’m sure the passengers felt like superstars with all of us waiting. 

Ferry from Barra to Eriskay

Then we headed to the ferry terminal – a different one to the one we arrived in on, at the north of the island. 

Both pretty shattered we ended up having a nap at the terminal, in the car. Was so nice with the sun streaming in.

There was a cafe there, with cakes and coffees, so a scone for an afternoon snack it was. 

Barra to Eriskay – departs 15:40 / arrives 16:20 £17 for a car and two passengers

We took the ferry over, and sat in the car missing all the supposedly beautiful views. Blummin COVID meant we weren’t allowed to get out and walk around.

Arriving into Eriskay, we drove up to South Uist, admiring the views as we went. We were desperate for some decent food, and after quite a bit of driving with no map or phone signal, managed to find Charlie’s Bistro. 

Lasagne, with chips and garlic bread. TRIPLE carbs. Yes.

The owner, Iain, was lovely. He bought the cafe when it was an old sweet shop, called ‘Charlie’s’. He had fond memories of a childhood popping in there for sweets and so wanted to keep the name, but make it a lovely restaurant. 

He was really helpful in our quest to go wild camping in Scotland and directed us to a few beaches to try where no one would mind. 

Accommodation on Benbecula, South Uist

We ended up at Cula Bay. It was even windier than the night before and we couldn’t actually even get the big tent up. Thankfully I’d taken a one man one and so I slept in that on the beach, while Helen slept in the car. It was a rough night. 

I feel like I’ve learnt a lot about wild camping and though I’d totally do it again, that night was hard. 

The beach was amazing though!

Day 4: Road trip up the Uists, to Harris

Up early, it wasn’t good enough weather to properly enjoy the beach, so we packed up as soon as we woke up, and drove up South Uist and North Uist, with a leisurely drive to the terminal. 

I was determined to use the camping stove and toastie maker I’d bought and so after managing to find an open shop at the terminal, we bought some bread and cheese. Unfortunately the wind was blowing the flame so much it didn’t cook, and so we had dry cold cheese sarnies for breakfast.

There’s nowhere to eat before 12 on South Uist. At least, we couldn’t find anywhere. 

Beneray to Leverburgh to Harris Island –  Departs 11:10 / Arrives 12:10

There’s loads of cool stuff to do on Lewis and Harris, but after two nights of camping, gawd we were tired. 

We decided to head north to our Airbnb and just see what we saw on the way. 

We accidentally happened upon the food truck, Taste n Sea, which actually ended up being my favourite food experience of the whole Outer Hebrides road trip. We didn’t know at the time, but they’re actually pretty highly regarded around the Hebrides. 

I went for cod pieces, Cullen Skink soup, and a tea. All tasted soooo good, and even better with this impressive view to look out on as we ate. 

That gave us a good feed for the day, as we hadn’t realised the portions were quite so big. 

We pootled on to our Airbnb in Cromore, admiring the stunning scenery as we did. If the weather had been better I would’ve gone in for a wild swim.

Accommodation in Harris 

We got to our Airbnb in Cromore, showered and just fell asleep. SO nice to relax in a comfortable Scottish home.

We had a room in a lovely couple’s home, but they had to go to the hospital in Glasgow for a check up so, along with another couple who’d got a room on Airbnb, we had the place to ourselves. Hot shower, lovely kitchen, and a massive DVD collection with a big lounge meant we were very happy to be there.

We paid around £21 each per night.

Day 5: Road trip round Lewis

Up and ready, finally refreshed. We wanted to see as much of Lewis as possible. Big day ahead.

The top things to do in Lewis include hiking, exploring the beaches, enjoying the Circular Scenic Route (which included the impressive Reef Beach), going to see the Callanish Stones , learning about the chess pieces of Lewis, and enjoying the Old Village (wasn’t open). 

We had a great day driving round, BUT, the one thing that was missing, was food . Couldn’t find an open restaurant anywhere (this was Sept 2020). We managed a cup a soup at the Lewis Community Shop (great place), and that was it all day. 

So by 5pm we headed to Stornoway – the main town of the Western Isles and the capital of Lewis and Harris in Scotland. Had to be some food there! 

We went for a pint and a packet of crisps at McNeills pub, and waited for the Harbour Kitchen to open. And when it did, wow. Managed an amazing meal. I ordered mussels and they gave me 71.

I counted them. Staff were lovely, and the bread they gave alongside was an absolute taste sensation. 

Accommodation in Lewis

We stayed at the Airbnb again, on Harris, and watched Braveheart. Lovely evening!

It was a bit of a drive but there weren’t any other option tbh.

89 Road Trip Quotes to Inspire Your Next Adventure

Day 6: Road trip round Harris

Today it was Harris’ turn. What could we find on our big day in Harris on our Outer Hebrides road trip? 

After leaving our Airbnb we headed into Tarbert, where we’d be getting our early ferry from tomorrow, and the most populated area on Harris.

First stop, breakfast. 

After getting some petrol (they do it for you, it’s great) we saw a sign for breakfast at the Harris Hotel . 

Best bacon and egg sandwich ever. It was so hot inside, how did they do it? That set us up, and made us book into the hotel for that night too. As we still hadn’t planned any accommodation for our final night of the Outer Hebrides road trip. 

Day in Harris

We spent our day in Harris exploring Seilebost Beach, Luskentyre Beach, walking out to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse on the Island of Scalpay, shopping in Tarbert, wishing we could go in the Harris Distillery, and generally having a lovely time. 

We had dinner in the hotel – cod and chips, with a herring starter – and drinks in the bar after. It was a great last night on the Outer Hebrides!

TOP TIP: Watch out for which Tarbert you book your hotel in. There’s another one in Argyll, where the Loch Lomond Park is and you don’t want to get muddled.

The Harris Hotel was very ‘Scottish’ looking, and traditional. I thought it was great – we were both impressed with our room. It was definitely bigger than the average, we had a sofa and TV, and of course a private bathroom too. 

It was about a two-minute drive from the port, and walkable to the famous Harris Distillery. There was plenty of parking out front, and the staff were lovely too. 

In fact, everyone we met in the Outer Hebrides was definitely nicer than the average!

You could also try the Hotel Harris, which was a bit more modern and even closer to the ferry terminal. Click here for more photos, prices and availability for the Hotel Hebrides .

Day 7: Tarbert to Uig, in Skye

We were up and out, and managed to get the price of breakfast off our hotel as we didn’t have time to eat it. Pretty happy about that. So useful being about two minutes from the terminal too, glad we invested in the Harris Hotel!

Tarbert to Uig Departs 07:30 / Arrives 09:10

Ferry was pretty chill. Had a gross ‘sausage patty’ sandwich though – if they ask if you want ‘links’, say yes.

Unfortunately for us, the weather was terrible in Skye. My mum had been warning me all week about the weather warnings on breakfast TV. Well, it hit in Skye.

We’d been so excited to explore but the rain really stopped play. Driving was awful, and we couldn’t see the stunning views we knew were beyond the fog.

We drove round Quiraing, and managed a few pics and vista points before the heavens opened.

We sat and had cake in Portree, hoping it’d change. I have been to Skye before, on January 1st and weather was actually way better than in September, just to note. 

We gave up and didn’t even look round Portree in the end. Such a shame as we’d so been looking forward to exploring Skye.

Still determined, we drove up to the Fairy Pools, which look amazing online, but found they weren’t even open thanks to the torrential rainfall.

Driving through Glencoe

We drove south, through Glencoe, stopping at a Tibetan market we happened to see along the way. 

Glencoe is one of the most stunning places in the Highlands, but unfortunately we could barely see past our hands. So, we just decided to head back.

I had a LONG drive to do and wanted to get some of it over with.

We passed Ben Nevis somewhere in the fog, and stopped at Eilean Castle, which was featured in James Bond.

I just carried on driving past Loch Lomond and Pine Trees, through the rain, to Glasgow. 

We arrived into Glasgow at around 6pm, to lovely sun. Forgot what that felt like.

Everything looked great and I’d love to go back to see Glasgow, but for that night, I just wanted dinner and a drink. We went to MacSorley’s next door, and had mac and cheese with pulled pork, and a few gin and tonics.

Accommodation in Glasgow

We stayed at the Jury’s Inn Glasgow, which was in an incredible location, and only £40 for the night. The duvet and pillows there were just AMAZING. Click here to book a bargain at the Jury’s Inn in Glasgow.

Final day map

6 hours 31 minutes drive – probably took me longer

——

Day 8: Glasgow, and home

If you have the time, enjoy looking round Glasgow. It was wonderful weather for it, but I needed to get to my parents in the Midlands. We left, stopping at Tebay Services on the way back for breakfast, and then, home.

A great week road tripping in the Outer Hebrides!

Tips for an Outer Hebrides road trip

– I’d definitely recommend dividing up that last day. It was just too much driving and I couldn’t relax and enjoy the morning.

– Pack some healthy food in the car as it could be hard to find when we wanted it. Barely ate a vegetable all week. 

– The roads are unbelievably well kept, especially compared to down where I live in Hampshire!

– If you want to wild camp, read my guide . 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places – and be courteous. 

– Let other drivers pass, as they might be on their way to work while you’re chugging along admiring the view. 

– Keep your petrol topped up. 

Cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip

Outer hebrides ferries.

This is what we spent on ferries for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• Oban to Castlebay = £100
• Eriskay to Barra = £17.15
• Ferry = £21.30
• Tarbert to Uig = £44.65

= £183.10 / 2 = £91.55 each

Outer Hebrides Accommodation

This is what we spent on accommodation for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• Wavecrest Camping x 1 = £10 
• Airbnb house x 2 = £50
• Harris Hotel x 1 = £60
• Jury’s Inn, Glasgow x 1 = £22

= £142 each

Outer Hebrides food

This is what we spent on food for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

• We didn’t eat particularly well on this trip, and did actually eat chocolate bars for lunch on two days. Sad times. Had some lovely fish and chips at the Harris Hotel, enjoyed my mussels, and the lasagne and chips were just what I needed.

I’d estimate I spent about £150 on food for the week.

= £150 each

Outer Hebrides petrol

This is what we spent on petrol for the Outer Hebrides road trip, each. 

Petrol was one of the biggest expenses on the trip, and from Preston to Preston again, it cost about £130 between us. 

Total cost of the Outer Hebrides road trip =   £449

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Advice for wild camping & driving in the Outer Hebrides

Wild camping in Scotland is perfectly legal, but there are rules to keep it fun and open to all. If you’re feeling inspired by my wild camping adventure and want to give it a go in the Outer Hebrides, make sure to follow the Scotland wild camping rules.

• You won’t stay longer than three nights in one place. 
• You’ll leave the spot how you find it (or better!).
• No fires. 
• Respect animals, nature and other people. 

Top tips for wild camping 

You need to be prepared for wild camping in the Outer Hebrides. Let me take you through a few lessons learned the hard way, so you don’t make the same mistakes!

– When you choose a spot to camp, look for some sort of shelter. At least from one direction. But, don’t camp between two high points as the wind will funnel through to you. That fresh coastal air can become a howling gale very quickly!

– Getting the tent up is one thing, but getting the pegs to stay in the ground is another. So much of Scotland is either boggy, or dry – so you may have trouble with the tent pegs. I’d recommend getting some storm pegs for extra resilience.  

– Don’t camp next to a stream, or any body of water, as little brooks can easily turn into torrents. You do NOT want to wake up to a river in your tent. 

– Don’t move rocks or dig ditches to make your camping spot better. That’s not how wild camping in Scotland works. And don’t camp near people’s homes, or within view from their house – they won’t like it. 

– My tent was too high, too hard to put up, and there was too much fabric to cope with in the wind. When it comes to choosing a tent, go small, basic and as minimal as possible.

– No matter what the time of years, expect the nights to be cold and pack extra warmth for your tent and sleeping bag.

– Arrive in good time to your spot, so you have the time to pick an exact spot before nightfall. 

Top tips for driving

– Don’t worry about the islands’ road conditions. The roads were amazingly well kept and other motorists were very courteous – we didn’t have a problem. 

– You need to adhere to the rule of passing places and pull over if the passing place is on your side of the road. 

– Keep your petrol topped up as it could be some time between stops. 

– Download your maps to your phone before you start as you might not have phone reception for your trip. Any cafe or restaurant we asked was happy to give out their Wi-Fi code with a purchase so we were ok. 

– Spend some money locally rather than taking your own food or using supermarkets. Try the fish market for lunch in Oban, pick up some treats from the community shop in Harris, try the Hebridean Toffee and eat out to taste the local cuisine. It’s tempting to be 100% prepared, but it’s fun to sample local produce and really helps the local communities too. 

Packing list for your trip

A lightweight tent that’s super easy to pitch, and light. 

Take a good quality all season sleeping bag , and an insulated mat too. Maybe some sort of pillow ? Up to you whether you can be bothered to carry it or not. 

You need a way to get water. I was fine with two bottles kept filled and kept in the car but you can get water treatment tablets from Boots easily enough. 

Camping stove, with a gas cartridge . 

Take a phone power bank , and the midge repellant.

You might want to bring a First Aid Kit, a repair kit for the tent , and some hand sanitising gel too. Make sure your toiletries are all biodegradable. 

Some sort of picnic mat to sit out at night. If you’re in little hiking tents there’s no space to sit up. 

Road trip in the Outer Hebrides

If you want to go road tripping round the Outer Hebrides I wholeheartedly recommend it. I feel like we had a real adventure, at a time when adventures were hard to find. We barely saw a soul out and about, and it was the perfect trip to get away from it all.

If you have any questions about going on a road trip in the Outer Hebrides – let me know in the comments below.

PIN THIS OUTER HEBRIDES ROAD TRIP FOR LATER

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Hi, I'm Vicky! I wrote this. You can find me on all the social media @VickyFlipFlop. I love a bit of adventure, will try anything once, and have a strong passion for the local food and drink, whatever it may be. I'm here to help inspire you to travel to places a little out of your comfort zone, or at least to explore the usual destinations in a different way. Stay, have a look around, and if you have any questions – let me know below.

Loved reading about your Western Isles adventure, planning ours now.. Regards, Kel and Carole Coles.. South Wales

Hi Vicky, Thanks for the flip flop advice.Looks like we might have to do this trip. But not wild camping,can you recommend doing this in a camper van / motor home . We are both retired and so the time of year is not an issue. Kind regards, John

Can you park a campervan on Cula Bay. I grew up in Benbecula from age 4 until 9 going back 45years now and spent every weekend with our caravan on Cula Bay through the summer. I am taking my 15 yr old daughter this Summer and your road trip has been very useful. We are taking 2 weeks traveling from Petersfield near Portsmouth so any suggestions of places to give more time

Just read your Outer Hebrides Road Trip article and found it fascinating and very useful . We are hoping to do a very similar thing in April/May, except that we shall be taking two weeks instead of your one and we shall return via Stornoway and Ullapool. Oh, and as we are both approaching the age of 80, we shall be staying in hotels and guest houses, not camping! We actually booked it first for 2020 (cancelled because of COVID), then for 2021 (ditto!), so this is our third attempt to do this trip. Like you, we shall take the ferry from Oban to Castlebay (thanks for the warning about rough seas!), then we spend two nights each on Barra, South Uist, North Uist, Harris (three nights there), Lewis west coast, and Lewis east coast (north of Stornoway). I have had three years to do my research and thought I had everything sussed, but your article gave me ten very useful facts that I had missed (places to eat, for example, and even a beach that I’d managed to miss!). Many, many thanks for your report.

Hello David, that’s so wonderful to hear. It warms my heart that I’ve helped plan your trip! That will be fantastic over two weeks. When I think back it was a little rushed with all the driving, two weeks will be perfect to be able to enjoy it all properly. Hotels are a great idea too!

Sounds like you have a fantastic itinerary and I hope you have a great time. It really is a stunning part of the world, whatever the weather. Hope you enjoy those impressive beaches!

@David Briers, Hi, did you manage to do your trip David.. My wife and I hope to do a similar trip next Spring.. Started planning today.. Would love to know how you get/got on??? Oh by the way, we are spring chickens..65 ish traveling by car and utilising hotels and guest houses hopefully. Kind regards, Kel and Carole Coles. S.Wales

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Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

Home > Blog > Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

Picture pristine white sand beaches, mystical stone monuments, quiet roads through lochs and inlets, and wild waves crashing on a lighthouse. A colony of inquisitive puffins, distant ferries sailing by, and peaceful crofts and farmland with plentiful sheep. An icy cold wind reminds you that you’re on the far edge of Scotland. Welcome to the Outer Hebrides.

Absolute Escapes are award-winning specialists in self-drive holidays in Scotland , and we love the opportunity to use our knowledge and experience to design the perfect, bespoke holiday for our clients.

The Outer Hebrides is a destination close to our hearts and we’re delighted to share a bit of our first-hand knowledge. Read on to find out all you’ve ever wanted to know about visiting Scotland’s spectacular western islands.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Visit Outer Hebrides (@visitouterhebrides)

General FAQs:

Where are the Outer Hebrides?

What is the history of the outer hebrides, what’s the weather like in the outer hebrides, when is the best time to visit the outer hebrides, what’s the largest island in the outer hebrides.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides:

Do ferries sail to the Outer Hebrides?

Are there flights to the outer hebrides, how do i get from edinburgh or glasgow to the outer hebrides, how do i get from london to the outer hebrides.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides:

What kind of accommodation is in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there luxury hotels in the outer hebrides, what are the best places to stay in the outer hebrides.

Touring the Outer Hebrides:

What are the best things to do in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there good walking opportunities in the outer hebrides, where are the best beaches in the outer hebrides, what are the best boat trips in the outer hebrides, how do i visit st kilda, are there escorted tours of the outer hebrides, are there midges in the outer hebrides, how do i book a holiday to the outer hebrides.

The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, are a chain of remote islands located off the northwest coast of Scotland.

The main islands that form this archipelago include Lewis and Harris (two ‘islands’ connected by land), North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra. However, there are as many as ten more islands connected or attached to the main islands!

Tiny islands such as Berneray and Vatersay act as a link in the chain and are equally worth exploring, despite their small size.

The Outer Hebrides have been inhabited since Mesolithic times, and there is a range of fascinating prehistoric archaeological sites to discover. The most famous of these is the ancient Neolithic Calanais Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis, which resembles its better-known younger cousin Stonehenge in England.

Also on Lewis you’ll find Dun Carloway – one of the best-preserved brochs in the country.

In addition to Neolithic stone structures, there are many other historic sites and interesting archaeological finds that reveal the fascinating history of the islands, from Medieval churches to mummy remains in the Cladh Hallan Roundhouses!

Celtic roots run deep within these island communities and Gaelic is an important aspect of life in the Outer Hebrides. Islanders are proud of their Celtic heritage, and this is reflected in the rich arts and music culture that stems from the islands.

Gaelic is still widely spoken and popular crafts such as Harris Tweed and Celtic jewellery are still handmade using traditional methods.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Stuart Ansell (@stuartansellphotography)

With their soft white sand and clear turquoise waters, picture-postcard images of beaches in the Outer Hebrides might transport you to the Caribbean. However, you are far from the Caribbean warmth!

The weather in the Outer Hebrides is much the same as in the rest of the west coast of Scotland – a bit chilly, a bit windy, and maybe a little wet at times.

While lovely sunny days do exist, it is always worth being prepared to face the elements. A light waterproof jacket, boots and layers are your best companion on an island-hopping adventure .

Although, make sure you don’t forget your swimming costume (or wetsuit perhaps!).

The Outer Hebrides are a very popular destination with limited accommodation on offer, so it’s always worth booking well in advance.

High summer months such as July and August tend to be the busiest, while May, June and September are great alternatives when the weather might be drier.

Summer days in the Outer Hebrides are long, giving you more opportunities to make the most of your trip and enjoy all that the islands have to offer.

Lewis & Harris is the largest island in the Outer Hebrides, where most of the population lives. Stornoway on Lewis is the main town and commercial centre of the islands, home to approximately 8,000 people.

If you have limited time to visit the islands, then Stornoway or Tarbert in Harris might the best bases for you to explore much of the islands and do a couple of day trips.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides

There are various ways to travel to the Outer Hebrides, but if you wish to explore the whole chain, then multiple ferry rides are involved.

From the Scottish mainland, you can travel to Barra from Oban, to North Uist from Skye (which is connected to the mainland by the Skye Bridge), or to Stornoway from Ullapool.

While there are daily sailings available, these are limited to once or twice per day, so booking in advance is important if you are taking a car on the ferry. You can pre-book your journeys on the Calmac website.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by CalMac Ferries (@calmacferries)

Flying to the Outer Hebrides is also a tempting option as the flight to the Isle of Barra is an incredibly scenic and exciting trip! Barra Airport is unique as it is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach.

Direct flights are available from most Scottish airports to Barra, Lewis and Benbecula. Trips are typically under an hour, so travelling by air can be quicker than travelling by ferry, but often more expensive and less environmentally friendly. You can check flight times and plan your journey on the Skyscanner website.

From Edinburgh or Glasgow, you can either fly to Stornoway and/or Barra. While this might save you some time, the drive to the west coast of Scotland is spectacular and, in our opinion, unmissable.

We would recommend driving to Oban, following the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, and traversing across wild Argyll towards the coast.

If you prefer to start your island-hopping itinerary from the north to travel south, then travelling north across the Scottish Highlands to Ullapool will take a little longer. In this case, we would suggest splitting your journey by spending an additional night en route.

As there are no direct flights from London to the Outer Hebrides, we would recommend travelling to Edinburgh or Glasgow and making your way to the Outer Hebrides from there.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides

There is a range of lovely places to stay dotted all around in the Outer Hebrides. For our self-drive packages, we will normally try to secure accommodation in a larger town or village with various amenities, such and Stornoway or Tarbert.

However, there are some special places to stay in more remote areas, which are absolutely worth a short drive.

Proper luxury in the form of a 5* hotel is not available in the Outer Hebrides, but there are some truly spectacular and unique places to stay.

Scarista House in Harris is a very popular destination – an elegant yet rustic B&B and fine dining restaurant with lovely rooms featuring spectacular views towards the sea and nearby hills.

Another wonderful place to stay is Broad Bay House on the Isle of Lewis. Owners Sue and Tom offer a warm welcome to their beautiful 5* guest house which offers panoramic sea views, comfortable rooms, and some of the best local produce from the islands.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Scarista House (@scaristahouse)

Scarista House and Broad Bay House are undoubtedly two of the best places to stay on the islands. However, we also work with a range of accommodation in our Budget and Standard categories, which offer good food, comfort and an all-round unforgettable experience.

For example, the small Heathbank Hotel in Barra has a great restaurant featuring some of the freshest seafood in the country, while Beul Na Mara in Harris sits near the specular Luskentyre Beach and offers clean, bright and airy rooms.

Langass Lodge in North Uist is one of our top choices of Premium accommodation and another great place to stay; this former hunting lodge overlooks Loch Eport and its kitchen serves modern Scottish cuisine featuring fresh island ingredients.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Langass Lodge (@langasslodgehotel)

Touring the Outer Hebrides

Have we mentioned heading to the beach yet? In addition to the many stunning beaches on the islands, there are plenty of other great activities on offer.

History fans will enjoy exploring Lews Castle in Stornoway; a Victorian Baronial mansion, or visiting the brooding ruins of Kisimul Castle in Barra.

The 5,000-year-old Calanais Standing Stones are a must for all visitors to Lewis (including Outlander fans!), while Gearrannan Blackhouse Village is a short drive from Callanish. Here, you can learn about traditional Hebridean blackhouses with their drystone walls and picturesque thatched roofs.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Gearrannan Blackhouse Village (@gearrannanblackhousevillage)

For those interested in wildlife and the outdoors, there are endless opportunities for walking, cycling, and sea kayaking on the islands. The Hebridean Whale Trail follows the best places in the Outer Hebrides to spot cetaceans, such as porpoises, orca whales, minke whales, as well as basking sharks and dolphins.

The Bird of Prey Trail spans the whole island chain and features location markers for the best places to see birds of prey, such as golden eagles, hen harriers and short-eared owls.

Inspired by stunning scenery and rich Celtic heritage, the Outer Hebrides are also home to some of the finest arts and crafts in the world. If it is a cultural experience that you are seeking, visit Sgeulachd a Chlò Mhòir – the official ‘Story Room’ of the Harris Tweed Authority. Harris Tweed is a luxurious wool fabric, exclusively handwoven in the Western Isles and you can find it in the many craft and gift shops in the islands. The art centres An Lanntair in Stornoway and Taigh Chearsabhagh in North Uist also host inspiring exhibitions, theatre and music events.

For those interested in whisky and gin, you might want to pop by the Isle of Harris Distillery which sits on the shores of East Loch Tarbert. While their whisky is still maturing, you can buy a bottle of the lovely Isle of Harris Gin, infused with sugar kelp.

Yes! The Outer Hebrides are a walker’s paradise, with magnificent beaches peacefully stretching for miles on end. The Hebridean Way is a long-distance route spanning nearly 200 miles across 10 breathtaking islands. It is very popular not only with walkers but with cyclists too.

For hillwalkers, there are also some mountain ranges in Harris. To the north, there is the most extensive and highest range of mountains in the Outer Hebrides—a wild conglomeration of ridges, glens and summits. Clisham (or An Cliseam) is the highest mountain at 799 metres high and it is the archipelago’s only Corbett. Further hillwalking opportunities are available in Lewis and South Uist.

If you are interested in learning more, you might wish to purchase a Pocket Mountains guidebook for walking on the islands. We would also recommend visiting our friends at Walkhighlands for inspiration on trickier routes and to help you plan your walks.

The spectacular coastline in the Western Isles is one of the main reasons the archipelago is such as popular tourist destination. The Outer Hebrides have a restorative quality, with endless quiet beaches, an invigorating sea breeze, and the relaxing scent of machair and wildflowers.

Often rated as some of the top beaches in the world, Luskentyre Beach in Harris and Uig Sands in Lewis are undoubtedly two of the most spectacular beaches on the islands.

There are many other tranquil beaches to explore such as Vatersay Bay; the small island of Vatersay is linked by causeway to Barra and boats a stunning sandy bay and a wide expanse of dunes.

Eriskay is another small island connected to South Uist by a causeway and it is host to the beautiful Coileag a’ Prionnnsa beach.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Dan Ferguson (@_dfergie94)

As well as the trip to St Kilda (see below), Seatrek , which is based in Lewis, offers unforgettable boat trips around the Uig coastline.

Kilda Cruises also offer shorter trips off the coast of Harris, including fishing trips and excursions to the Shiant Isles.

St Kilda is one of the most unique and spectacular places one could visit in the world. This uninhabited isolated archipelago with rugged sea cliffs and impressive sea-stacks towers out of the wild Atlantic Ocean.

It is home to nearly one million seabirds, including the largest colony of Atlantic puffins in the UK. It is also one of the only dual UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. It is remote. It is wild. It is breathtaking.

A trip to St Kilda is certainly worth it, but not easy. It takes approximately 2.5 to 3 hours to sail to St Kilda each way from the Isle of Harris. Boat trips are available from Leverburgh with Kilda Cruises and Sea Harris , and booking well in advance is essential.

As these trips are often disrupted by the weather, our recommendation would be to spend at least three nights in Harris and book the trip on day two, so if the trip needs to be rescheduled, you can try again the following day.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by MoodyScotland (@moodyscotland)

Our friends at Rabbie’s Tours offer escorted tours to the Outer Hebrides departing from Edinburgh and Inverness. Rabbie’s are an award-winning company whose expert guides truly take you beyond the guidebooks to explore the stunning scenery and extraordinary history of this country.

Explore the islands in a modern, air-conditioned mini-coach touring with a maximum of 16 passengers. Please get in touch if you are interested in an escorted tour. Rabbie’s will do the guiding, and with our expert knowledge, we’ll make sure you stay in the best accommodation on each island.

Midges are small biting insects and they can indeed be a pest. The good news is that they tend to not be too much of a problem in the Outer Hebrides as there is usually a bit of a sea breeze to keep them away.

Midges like cool, overcast days, and don’t like direct sunlight or wind. You might want to “smidge-up” if you are spending some time on the west coast upon your return from the islands though, particularly during high summer. Smidge is available almost everywhere in the Scottish Highlands, but we also recommend Avon Skin So Soft which is incredibly effective.

Our Hebridean Island Hopping itinerary is one of our most popular self-drive holidays in Scotland, but we can also create a bespoke itinerary based on your interests and requirements.

Please don’t hesitate to get in touch with our expert team if we can help you plan an unforgettable Hebridean escape!

Katia Fernandez Mayo

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WHAT TO DO ON UIST

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BEST THINGS TO DO ON UIST

THE OUTER HEBRIDES

In this guide we share the best things to do on Uist, along with extensive information on where to stay, the best places to eat and drink, how to get to the islands, and how to get around when you’re there. We also offer a detailed map and practical travel tips to help your trip run smoothly.

A long string of islands, Uist lies at the centre of the group that makes up the Outer Hebrides, Scotland’s Western Isles. Linked by causeways, this island chain stretches from Eriskay in the south to Berneray in the north, via South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay, and North Uist, with Uist serving as the collective name.

The western, Atlantic facing half of Uist is typically flat, with beautiful white sand beaches and extensive stretches of fertile machair. The eastern half is significantly hillier, with countless lochs, inlets, and skerries punctuating a jagged coastline.

With fantastic scenery, nature walks of varying lengths and difficulties, mouthwatering local food and drink, and exciting boat trips to uninhabited islands, there’s a lot to keep you busy. So whether you’re planning to visit Uist (pronounced yoo – ist) as part of an Outer Hebrides island hopping adventure which includes Barra , Harris and Lewis , or as a trip all on its own, be sure to allow at least a few days to properly explore.

WATCH OUR UIST FILM

Watch our instagram stories from the outer hebrides.

Part One | Part Two | Part Three

WHAT TO SEE AND DO ON UIST

Best beaches on uist.

BERNERAY WEST BEACH CLACHAN SANDS HOSTA BEACH BALRANALD BEACH BALESHARE BEACH PRINCE’S BEACH

BEST SHORT WALKS ON UIST

LOCH EYNORT ARINABAN WOODLAND WALK LOCH DRUIDIBEG & LOCH SKIPPORT WALKS SCOLPAIG COASTLINE AND PLUNGE POOL

BEST LONGER WALKS ON UIST

VALLAY TIDAL ISLAND UDAL PENINSULA BALRANALD NATURE RESERVE HILLWALKING ON UIST

UIST CULTURE AND CRAFTS

NORTH UIST DISTILLERY HOWMORE COTTAGES & RUINS TAIGH CHEARSABHAGH MUSEUM LONG ISLAND RETREATS SHORELINE STONEWARE UIST WOOL

BEST DAY TRIPS FROM UIST

MINGULAY DAY TRIP ST KILDA DAY TRIP LADY ANNE BOAT TRIP

PLAN YOUR TRIP TO UIST

UIST MAP TRAVEL TIPS WHERE TO EAT & DRINK WHERE TO STAY ON UIST HOW TO GET TO UIST HOW TO GET AROUND

LOCH EYNORT ARINABAN WOODLAND WALK

LOCH DRUIDIBEG & LOCH SKIPPORT WALKS

SCOLPAIG COASTLINE AND PLUNGE POOL

NORTH UIST DISTILLERY HOWMORE COTTAGES & RUINS TAIGH CHEARSABHAGH MUSEUM & ARTS CENTRE LONG ISLAND RETREATS SHORELINE STONEWARE UIST WOOL

*Some of the links in this post are affiliate links – if you purchase a product or service via these links, we may earn a small commission  at no extra cost to you . This helps offset the cost of running this blog and keeps us travelling so that we can continue to produce great content for you. We greatly appreciate your support!*

We have created a detailed Uist map to accompany this guide, which can be used online or offline to navigate during your trip and quickly pinpoint all of the places mentioned here. This includes the key sights outlined in our ‘Best Beaches’ and ‘Uist Culture and Crafts’ sections, along with all of the walking routes, our recommended food stops, accommodation, and practical info such as supermarkets, petrol stations, and public toilets. It is the perfect companion to this written guide. 

There is no shortage of attractive beaches on Uist, but a few favourites stand out above all others. From north to south, these are our top picks for the best beaches on Uist. Note that these are all easily accessible from nearby car parks. Some other great beaches which require a bit more effort to get to are included in our Best Longer Walks section.

BERNERAY WEST BEACH // BERNERAY

Berneray west beach //.

Stretching along the entire west coast of Berneray, this beauty has been voted one of Europe’s top beaches for 2022 by Lonely Planet . With 5 km of brilliant white sand it’s ideal for a long windswept walk, or equally great for a secluded picnic in the tall, machair-covered dunes behind. There are wonderful views across to the small island of Pabbay and the hills of Harris beyond.

CLACHAN SANDS // NORTH UIST

Clachan sands //.

Situated at the top of North Uist, Clachan Sands is a gorgeous white sand beach stretching 4km or so, with an informal grassy camping area dividing the beach in two. Traigh Hornais gently curves around to the southwest, with Traigh Lingeigh arcing northeast. Backed by extensive machair, it’s a spectacular setting with views across to the Udal Peninsula and small island of Boreray.

HOSTA BEACH // NORTH UIST

Hosta beach //.

This gem of a beach (Traigh Stir in Gaelic) is the top surf beach on Uist, but is also a beautiful spot for non-surfers too. Backed by machair-covered dunes and tucked between two small rocky headlands, Hosta feels both secluded and cosy. It also makes a great wild camp spot.

Hosta Beach lies between two small headlands, popular with surfers but great too for a stroll or for camping in the dunes

Hosta Beach lies between two small headlands, popular with surfers but great too for a quiet stroll or for camping in the dunes

BALRANALD BEACH // NORTH UIST

Balranald beach.

NORTH UIST //

The curve of white sand at Balranald is a beautiful spot for a stroll, dip, or picnic, where you can enjoy the fresh seafood delights on offer at the nearby Dunes Cabin. It’s an all-round favourite, attracting everyone from wildlife lovers (thanks to its location on an RSPB Nature Reserve) to families holidaying at the nearby campsite.

BALESHARE BEACH // NORTH UIST

Baleshare beach //.

Baleshare is a small island connected to North Uist by causeway, which makes for an especially scenic drive to the informal parking area on the edge of a field. The beach itself is a long stretch of flat sand sloping almost imperceptibly into the sea, and is another great spot for a dip. Rocky sections punctuate the beach, creating interesting features that change in appearance between low and high tide. Being a bit further from the road than some of the other best beaches on Uist, Baleshare is often quiet, and at nearly 6 km long it’s easy to find a private spot for yourself.

The water at Baleshare Beach stays shallow for some distance, making it a great spot for a calm and relaxing dip

PRINCE’S BEACH // ERISKAY

Prince’s beach //.

Situated on the west coast of Eriskay, Prince’s Beach (so called after Bonnie Prince Charlie who landed here in 1745) is a picturesque stretch of white sand backed by grass and sea bindweed. It’s generally a sheltered spot and is great for swimming, although as with every beach on Uist, the water is cold! The ferry terminal for Barra is just south of the beach, making this a great spot to stop off on your way to or from the southernmost islands of the Outer Hebrides.

Prince’s Beach, close to the ferry terminal on Eriskay, is generally a sheltered spot that’s good for a swim

Prince’s Beach, close to the ferry terminal on Eriskay, is generally a sheltered spot that’s good for a swim 

SHORT WALKS ON UIST

Often the best way to get out and explore a place is on foot, and Uist has endless opportunities to do just that. These are a few of our favourite short walks, all 1.5 hours or less.

LOCH EYNORT ARINABAN WOODLAND // SOUTH UIST

Loch eynort arinaban woodland walk //.

Heading east off the main road running south to north through Uist leads you through a beautiful landscape of hills and lochs. The Arinaban Woodland walk lies at the end of the North Locheynort road, a fantastic out-and-back trail along the lochside, or a loop around the hillside. The walk starts from a small parking area at the end of the road. Nearby, a hand painted map of the route shows the various trails through Croft No.8, as well as the location of numerous benches and tables (perfect for a picnic!).

Whichever trail you decide to take, the initial section follows a narrow footpath through trees. It then emerges on an open hillside with wonderful views over the sea loch. You can turn right for a side trip down to a small bay, keep straight to carry on along the lochside, or turn left to loop around the eastern slopes of Beinn Bheag Dheas. We’ve marked a possible 5 km route on our map . It can be a bit muddy in places, so proper footwear is recommended.

A view of Loch Eynort from the west, with the trail running along the hillside above the loch

LOCH DRUIDIBEG AND LOCH SKIPPORT // SOUTH UIST

Loch druidibeg and loch skipport walks //.

Another scenic side trip off the main north-south road on Uist, the road to Loch Skipport (Loch Sgioport) leads to a couple of great short walks with the opportunity to spot birds of prey and wild ponies.

LOCH DRUIDIBEG

The first recommended walk is around Loch Druidibeg , a beautiful inland loch surrounded by heather moorland and some of the highest hills on Uist. Park at the designated car park about 2 km along the road, location number 10 of the Outer Hebrides Bird of Prey Trail .

Loch Druidibeg, with Beinn na Laire and Hecla risng immediately behind, Beinn Choradail just visible, and Beinn Mhór on the far right

Loch Druidibeg, with Beinn na Laire and Hecla the two peaks on the ridge behind

A series of footpaths, boardwalks, and bridges lead southwest across moorland and strips of land with the loch either side. This area is a breeding ground for short-eared owl, hen harrier, and merlin, with possible sightings of golden eagles and white-tailed eagles too.

The trail, which is part of the much longer Hebridean Way , continues for about 3 km before reaching the main road, with some boggy sections. Head out and back the same way, or if you fancy a longer walk you can carry on to the machair on the western side of the island and loop back to the car park via the road ( follow the trail description and route map outlined here ).

LOCH SKIPPORT

Continuing down the road and taking the right fork as you near the end will lead you to a small parking area by Loch Skipport , another good eagle-spotting location. There’s also a very high chance of bumping into some shetland ponies that roam wild around here, a 50+ strong herd belonging to the nearby crofting family at Long Island Retreats .

Carrying on down the potholed track beyond the parking area on foot, you’ll come to an old wooden jetty, with lovely views across the sea loch. The Bird of Prey Trail follows a track through the hills to the south of the parking area, up to some old shielings and along the coast for about 1 km.

Looking out towards the sea from a viewpoint above Loch Skipport, with the Isle of Skye seen faintly on the horizon

SCOLPAIG PLUNGE POOL AND COASTLINE // NORTH UIST

Scolpaig plunge pool and rocky coastline //.

On the west coast of North Uist, there is a dramatic rocky coastline to the south of Scolpaig which includes a natural plunge pool overlooking the sea. To reach it, park on the grassy verge beside the main road, just beyond a cross on the hillside to the left (if approaching from the south) and before the track on the left leading to a large house with sculpted edges (see our map for the exact location).

The plunge pool (bottom left third in picture) and the rocky coastline near Scolpaig

The plunge pool on the coast near Scolpaig, accessed from above via the rocky chute

Go through the gate, then head west across the open hillside. When you reach the coast, turn left and head south just a little, looking out for a rocky chute with the plunge pool at the bottom. You can climb down the rocks to get close to the pool, although swimming in it isn’t always possible due to the buildup of algae. The location is spectacular, well worth the 10 minute walk from the road!

LONGER WALKS ON UIST

There are plenty of beautiful beaches and interesting sights on Uist which require a longer journey on foot to best explore. These are a few of our recommended longer walks, between about 1.5 and 3 hours in length.

VALLAY TIDAL ISLAND // NORTH UIST

Vallay tidal island //.

The uninhabited tidal island of Vallay (Bhalaigh) is home to the enigmatic ruins of an enormous house built by Erskine Beveridge, a wealthy linen industrialist from Fife, and has a number of beautiful beaches on its northern shores. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the island, walking across an open expanse of sand and mud flats exposed at low tide.

It takes about 30 minutes to walk across an open expanse of sand at low tide to reach Vallay Island

Approaching the island, the big house looms on the left, with the ruins of smaller farmhouse buildings on the right. The house is unlike any other on Uist, a baronial style mansion with dozens of rooms spread over two floors. The prominent crow-stepped gables are perhaps a nod to Beveridge’s Fife roots, where this style of architecture is common in historic buildings. Built around 1902, the house has been uninhabited since 1944 when Erskine’s son, George, drowned while crossing between North Uist and Vallay by boat. The harsh Atlantic weather has since taken its toll, and with the roof and much of the interior having collapsed, only the shell remains.

Only the shell remains of Erskine Beveridge’s grand house

Only the shell remains of Beveridge’s grand house

Passing by the house and continuing to the northern side of the island will lead you to some beautiful beaches. Curves of white sand framed by dark coloured rocks spread out to the west and east, peaceful spots although with some very vocal oystercatchers. The hills of Harris rise to the northeast and the vast expanse of the Atlantic stretches off to the west.

Unless you plan on camping overnight, be sure to head back before the tide starts coming in, which can happen quite fast. It’s best to allow around 2 – 2.5 hours for the return trip, aiming to cross about two hours before low tide . There is space for a few cars to park at the start of the walk, in the small township of Cladach Vallay (see our map for the exact location and walking route).

Beautiful and quiet beaches on the northern side of Vallay

Beautiful beaches on the northern side of Vallay

UDAL PENINSULA // NORTH UIST

Udal peninsula //.

A loop around the Udal Peninsula takes in gorgeous beaches as well as archaeological sites dating back to Neolithic times. There is a fantastic audio walking tour you can follow which tells you all about the history and wildlife of the peninsula, narrated by members of the local community. The tour is available on the izi.travel app ( iOS / Android ). Download the app and search for North Uist to find it.

Park at the end of the road at Grenitote, where a track leads along the wide sandy bay of Traigh Ear towards the headland. Here you’ll find the 18th century cemetery of the MacLeans of Boreray, with the island itself lying just across the water. Crossing to the western side of the peninsula you’ll find Traigh Udal, a scenic curve of white sand beach. Heading south you’ll reach the impressive remains of a 1500 – 2000 year old roundhouse, excavated in the late 20th century. Beyond here lies the beautiful expanse of Traigh Iar, sweeping southwest towards Vallay. Take a walk along the beach, before looping back to the start.

Allow around 3 hours for the walk, which is 10 km or so. You can view and download the route on our map , and read about and/or listen to the history and significance of the peninsula on the izi website .

BALRANALD NATURE RESERVE // NORTH UIST

Balranald reserve //.

Balranald, as mentioned in our best beaches on Uist section, is an RSPB Nature Reserve. For those with an interest in birds and wildlife it’s well worth exploring beyond the beach itself. There is a waymarked trail leading around the rocky headland south of the beach, a 6 km loop starting from the parking area by the visitor centre.

The trail at the Balranald RSPB Nature Reserve leads around the southern end of the beach to a rocky headland

The Balranald RSPB Nature Reserve trail leads around the southern end of the beach to a rocky headland

Balranald is a haven for wildlife, including birds of prey, otters, and the rare corncrake. The walk, which takes around 1.5 hours, takes in a variety of landscapes and terrain, including fertile machair, sand dunes, rocky coastline, marshes, lochs, and ocean habitats. The highlights change throughout the seasons, and before setting off it’s well worth popping into the visitor centre, housed in a small whitewashed cottage. Here you’ll find a wealth of information as well as a list of recent wildlife sightings.

There is a map of the route inside the visitor centre, and you can view and download it on our map too. Public toilets are also available at the visitor centre.

HILLWALKING ON UIST

While the hills on the eastern half of Uist may not be overly high in comparison to those on mainland Scotland, they are an impressive sight looming over this otherwise low-lying landscape. If you’re looking for a somewhat challenging day hike on pathless terrain, tackling one of the island’s tallest peaks could be for you.

Eaval (Eabhal) is the highest in North Uist at 347 m, its prominent peak visible from all over the island. Count on the 11 km return hike taking about 5.5 hours. Note that the stepping stones over the outflow of water from Loch Obasaraigh (less than 1 km from the start of the walk) can be covered at high tide, so it’s best to plan your walk accordingly. You can read a full trail description on WalkHighlands .

Eaval (Eabhal), the highest peak on North Uist, rising above the surrounding low-lying landscape to a height of 347 m

Eaval, the highest peak on North Uist, rising above the surrounding low-lying landscape to a height of 347 m

Beinn Mhór is South Uist’s highest peak at 620 m, offering fantastic views over the islands from the summit (weather permitting of course!). You can start the hike from Loch Eynort (the same spot as the Arinaban Woodland walk), approaching from the south, however approaching from the north is considered easier. This is the route outlined on WalkHighlands , and the one we would suggest following. Allow around 7 hours for the 12.5 km return hike, and longer if you plan to take in Hecla too, as per the WH route description.

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For an insight into Uist culture and the chance to pick up some quality local craftware and products, don’t miss the following interesting spots and experiences.

NORTH UIST DISTILLERY // NUNTON STEADINGS, BENBECULA

North uist distillery //.

NUNTON STEADINGS, BENBECULA

North Uist Distillery is one of the most exciting startups on Uist, the island’s first (legal) distillery currently producing excellent craft gin, with whisky coming in the future. Operating out of the 18th century Nunton Steadings, the chance to see inside this historic building is reason enough to pop by, but of course we’d highly recommend a gin tasting too.

The 18th century Nunton Steadings, home to North Uist Distillery

Having grown up on North Uist and, like many of the island’s younger population, moved to the mainland and beyond after school, co-founders Kate and Jonny returned to their island home in 2017 to set up the distillery and carve out a new life for themselves. Since then their small business has continued to grow, employing a dozen or so people locally and becoming an integral part of the community, not to mention winning a few gin awards along the way! In a region that is experiencing higher-than-average rates of population decline it’s great to see a vibrant new business like this opening up, providing job opportunities locally as well as being a fantastic addition to the Eat Drink Hebrides Trail .

The current North Uist Distillery line up includes their classic Downpour Scottish Dry Gin, along with a Pink Grapefruit Gin, Sloe & Bramble Gin, Coast & Croft, and a ready-to-drink Oak Aged Negroni. You can sample them all during a tasting session (£17.50 per person, book here ) which also includes a tour of the historic Nunton Steadings building. Or, grab a gin of your choice from the on-site bar and while away the afternoon in a courtyard deckchair. For gifts and take-home bottles, the shop is well stocked with T-shirts, totes, miniatures, and more.

A stylishly wrapped bottle of Downpour Oak-Aged Negroni ready to be enjoyed on a beach in the Outer Hebrides

A bottle of Downpour Oak-Aged Negroni ready to be enjoyed on a beach in the Outer Hebrides

HOWMORE // SOUTH UIST

Howmore is home to a number of traditional thatched cottages, as well as the ruins of various chapels dating from around 1200 AD. It’s a great spot for a quick wander, but if you fancy spending longer it’s also possible to stay at the atmospheric Howmore Hostel .

This whitewashed, thatched-roofed beauty is popular with those walking or cycling The Hebridean Way , providing basic accommodation in a beautiful setting. You can explore the historic ruins of the Teampull Mor Complex, a stone’s throw from the hostel, then head to the beach just a few hundred metres away, which stretches along the coast for miles.

The whitewashed, thatch-roofed Howmore Hostel

TAIGH CHEARSABHAGH MUSEUM & ARTS CENTRE // LOCHMADDY, NORTH UIST

Taigh chearsabhagh museum & arts centre //.

LOCHMADDY, NORTH UIST

This arts and Gaelic culture centre hosts rotating exhibitions, as well as being home to a gift shop, a cafe, and the local post office. It’s a great place to retreat to on a rainy day, and the outdoor cafe deck is equally as inviting when the sun is shining. Entrance to the galleries are free, and there is a £3 charge for the heritage exhibition. Check what’s currently on via the Taigh Chearsabhagh website .

LONG ISLAND RETREATS // LOCH SKIPPORT, SOUTH UIST

Long island retreats //.

LOCH SKIPPORT, SOUTH UIST

For an insight into crofting heritage and day-to-day life on a working croft, join DJ and Lindsay for a tour from their home at Loch Skipport. Long Island Retreats offer a variety of experiences, from sheep shearing in July, to machair, croft, and island tours. They can even introduce you to a few of their Shetland ponies, a 50+ herd each with a name and character all of their own.

A windswept shetland pony on the road to Loch Skipport

A windswept shetland pony near Loch Skipport

SHORELINE STONEWARE // NORTH UIST

Shoreline stoneware //.

Shoreline Stoneware gallery and pottery showcases work from Uist-based artists and those with strong ties to the islands. It’s a great place to pick up a special piece of the Hebrides to take home.

UIST WOOL // GRIMSAY

Uist wool //.

Wool production has been an important part of island life for centuries, and the tradition continues in style at Uist Wool on Grimsay. Using lovingly restored machinery dating back to the 19th century, Uist Wool produces high quality undyed yarns from native wool. Pop into their mill and wool centre to see the process in action, and to pick up beautifully crafted woollen goods.

DAY TRIPS FROM UIST

Although there is plenty to do on Uist, there are a few day trips we would highly recommend while visiting the islands.

DAY TRIP TO MINGULAY

Mingulay is an uninhabited island at the southern end of the Outer Hebrides. It is home to a large puffin colony, numerous other seabirds, a spectacular golden sand beach, the atmospheric ruins of an abandoned village, and some of the tallest sea cliffs in the British Isles. You can visit on a boat trip with Uist Sea Tours , departing from Eriskay Ferry Terminal. It takes around 1 hour to get to Mingulay, with the chance to spot dolphins and basking sharks on the way.

The bay on Mingulay where you’ll arrive and go ashore

Mingulay Bay, where you’ll arrive and go ashore

With no jetty or tourist infrastructure whatsoever on Mingulay, your island adventure starts with a scramble up the rocks, or perhaps a beach landing, whichever is considered safest on the day. You’ll have about 3 hours to explore Mingulay on foot, before returning to the boat for a spectacular trip around the sea cliffs and (weather permitting) through a huge natural sea arch.

Guillemots hanging out on the sea cliffs of Mingulay

Guillemots hanging out on the Mingulay sea cliffs

Between late April and early August, the puffin colony can be found on the grassy slopes to the northern side of the beach. The views from this spot are fantastic, looking out over turquoise water to the huge expanse of beach at Mingulay bay, backed by the ruined buildings of the village, abandoned in 1912. Sit quietly, wait patiently, and you’ll be rewarded with the incredible sight of puffins zooming around, popping in and out of their burrows to survey the land.

Outside their burrows

A puffin on the rocky ledge above the bay

Puffins outside their burrows

Besides puffin encounters, Mingulay is also a great place to spot seals. They sometimes haul out in huge numbers on the beach, but you are most likely to see them frolicking around in the bay. You can wander around the remains of the village and the restored former school building, or head off on a longer hike up Cnoc Mhic-a-Phi (MacPhee’s Hill) (224 m), to the sheer cliffs of Biulacraig (Eagle Cliff), or up Carnan (273 m) or Hecla (219 m).

There are no toilets or other facilities on Mingulay. There is a natural water source, which should be boiled or treated before drinking. The terrain is uneven, and sturdy walking shoes are recommended. The weather can be very changeable, so you should pack waterproofs and warm clothing, as well as a hat, sunglasses, etc. Don’t forget to pack enough food and water for the 6 hour trip. There is no phone reception or data connection on the island. Tours cost £70 per person and run in good weather between approximately April and September.

See what a day trip to Mingulay is like in our Barra, Vatersay and Mingulay film below.

DAY TRIP TO ST KILDA

St Kilda is a small archipelago of rugged volcanic islands, sitting in the North Atlantic more than 40 miles west of Uist. These isolated isles are one of the few dual UNESCO World Heritage sites in the world, inscribed for both cultural and natural criteria.

A journey here is not for the faint hearted, with a 3 hour trip in each direction across often rough seas. But the reward for such an undertaking is the chance to witness tens of thousands of gannets circling above you, dive bombing the sea for their next catch. It’s the chance to imagine life 100 years ago for those who lived here, surviving largely off seabirds hunted by skilled cragsmen with heads for heights. And it’s the chance to feast your eyes upon the tallest sea cliffs and sea stacks in the British Isles, towering above you impressively as you bob around in the boat below. It’s a truly special place, and having made it as far as Uist, it’s well worth considering a day trip to St Kilda as well.

The view of Boreray, Stac Lee, and Stac an Armin from Hirta, the main island of St Kilda

A view of Boreray, Stac Lee, and Stac an Armin from Hirta, the main island of St Kilda

You can visit St Kilda once a week on Mondays between April and September with Hebridean Sea Tours , departing from Eriskay Ferry Terminal (weather permitting). Note that the Eriskay pick up/drop off option is not mentioned on their main booking page, but you can select this option at the confirmation stage. It’s a full day trip, typically lasting more than 12 hours, and costs £205. Booking well in advance is highly recommended.

You can read more about the history and significance of St Kilda and get practical tips for a visit to the islands in our dedicated St Kilda Travel Guide , and see more from St Kilda in our film below.

LADY ANNE WILDLIFE WATCHING BOAT TRIP

Departing from Kallin Harbour on Grimsay and skippered by Nick, the Lady Anne departs a few times a week between approximately May and September for a 2 hour wildlife viewing trip around neighbouring Ronay island. You’ll have the chance to see otters, red deer, dolphins, seals, and a variety of seabirds, plus an almost guaranteed sighting of a white tailed sea eagle! More details are available via their website and Facebook page , and you can call Nick on +44(0)7305163700 to book a trip (£40 per person).

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UIST TRAVEL TIPS & PRACTICALITIES

In order to make your visit run smoothly, there are a few things to be aware of when planning a trip to Uist. We go into more detail below, but in general it’s good to know that services such shops, banks, and petrol stations are only available in larger community hubs , and that many places close or have reduced opening hours on Sundays . Check the ‘Uist Practicalities’ markers on our map  for the location of everywhere mentioned in this guide.

The largest supermarkets on Uist are MacLennan’s in Balivanich (Benbecula), and the two Co-ops at Creagorry (Benbecula) and Daliburgh (South Uist), both of which are the only supermarkets open between 6pm – 10pm on Sundays. There are also smaller shops at Sollas, Bayhead, and Lochmaddy on North Uist, at Carnan on South Uist, and on Berneray and Eriskay too.

FUEL STATIONS

You can fill up fuel at Lochmaddy and Bayhead on North Uist, at Balivanich and Creagorry on Benbecula, and at Daliburgh and Lochboisdale on South Uist. The Seaview Filling Station at Balivanich and the Crossroads Filling Station at Creagorry are both pay-at-the-pump and accessible 24/7 .

ELECTRIC VEHICLE CHARGING

There are a number of electric vehicle charging points throughout North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay. We’ve marked the locations on our map .

There are a limited number of ATMs on Uist, found in Lochmaddy, Balivanich, Daliburgh, and Lochboisdale. Many places will accept card payments but it’s best to have cash too, so ideally withdraw enough cash for the duration of your trip.

UIST PUBLIC TOILETS AND SHOWERS

There are public toilets available at each of the CalMac ferry terminals: Berneray (24/7), Lochmaddy, Lochboisdale, and Eriskay (24/7). There are also toilets at Bernerary Harbour and the visitor centre at Balranald RSPB Reserve.

PHONE SIGNAL AND WIFI

Phone signal and data connection is generally good throughout Uist, and free public WiFi is available at each of the CalMac Ferry Terminals. Many cafes and other establishments also offer WiFi.

DRIVING ON SINGLE TRACK ROADS

You will come across single track roads often while driving around Uist. These have regular passing places, allowing you to pass oncoming traffic or let cars behind you safely overtake. Be sure to read up on how to drive on single track roads in advance, and watch this short animation video for a great visual overview.

WHERE TO EAT ON UIST

There are a range of options when it comes to eating out on Uist, including community cafes, food trucks, hotel restaurants, and more. Fresh local seafood is particularly good. The below is not an exhaustive list of food options on the islands, rather our top suggestions for where to eat on Uist.

Berneray Shop and Bistro | Classic cafe options for lunch, with a separate seafood-centred menu for dinner. Open May – September. Mon – Sat, 10am – 4pm (last orders 3pm for lunch), Dinner 6pm – 8.30pm (dinner reservations highly recommended – call +44 ( 0)1876 540288)

The Wee Cottage Kitchen | Food truck serving morning rolls, local seafood, sandwiches, hot drinks, baked goodies, etc. Open Mon – Sat, 10am – 3.30pm

The Dunes Cabin | Food truck operating out of the Balranald Hebridean Holidays campsite, next to RSPB Balranald. Hot rolls, local seafood, cakes, hot drinks, soup, etc. Open April – September: Tues – Fri, 11am – 3pm; Sat – Sun, 11am – 4pm

Kirkibost Cafe  | Community cafe serving lunch, hot drinks, cakes, etc. Locally made preserves, chutneys, etc. sold via the onsite Hebridean Kitchen . Usually open Tues – Thurs, 11.30am – 2.30pm (check their Facebook page for updates)

Langass Lodge | Fine dining, including local seafood. Lunch Mon – Fri (& Sun), Brunch Sat, 10.30am – 2pm, Dinner from 6pm. Reservations essential – call +44 (0)1876 580 285

The Wilder Kitchen | Unique dining experiences on the beach, prepared  on open fires by Langass Lodge chef, William Hamer. Booking essential, limited dates. Check Instagram and Facebook for updates

Taigh Chearsabhagh Cafe | Cafe at the museum and arts centre in Lochmaddy, serving soup, toasties, cakes, hot drinks, etc. Outdoor deck and indoor seating. Mon – Sat, 10am – 4pm (last orders 3.30pm)

Namara | Fresh seafood including scallops, lobster, langoustine, and crab in a no-frills cafe environment. Good value for money. Open Tues – Thurs, 9am – 4pm; Fri, 9am – 7pm; Sat 10am – 7pm

Charlie’s Bistro | Small restaurant focusing on local seafood and bistro classics. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  Mon – Thurs, 9am – 11pm; Fri, 9am – 1am; Sat, 10am – 1am. Advanced reservations for dinner recommended – call +44(0)1870 603242  

Borrodale Hotel | Restaurant open to non-residents. Open 7 days, 11am – late. R eservations recommended. Call +44( 0)1878 700444

Burnside Chip Shop | A petrol station that doubles up as a chippy! Decent fish suppers for takeaway only. Open Thurs – Sun, 8am – 7.30pm. Call +44(0)1878700184

Croft and Cuan | Takeaway food and good coffee at Lochboisdale pier, plus a mobile food truck attending events across Uist. Open Tues – Fri, 8am – 3pm; Sat, 10am – 3pm; Mon, 12pm – 3pm. Call +44( 0)1878 700117

Polochar Inn | Hotel bar and restaurant open to non-residents, brunch and dinner menu. Reservations recommended. Call +44( 0)1878 700215

Kilbride Cafe | Cafe with indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the southern coast, part of the Kilbride Campsite. Morning rolls, all-day breakfast, soup, sandwiches, etc. Open Mon – Sat, 8.30 – 3.30pm; Sun, 11am – 3pm. Call +44( 0)1878 700008

Am Politician | Bar and restaurant named after the ship of Whisky Galore fame. Food served 7 days, 12pm – 8pm. Advance reservations highly recommended. Call +44( 0)1878 720246

VISIT MORE ISLANDS IN THE OUTER HEBRIDES

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WHERE TO STAY ON UIST

There is a wide variety of accommodation options on Uist, from traditional inns and B&Bs, to glamping pods, hostels, and self-catering holiday homes. There are also a number of campsites, and wild camping is permitted in line with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code .

If you are travelling to Uist in a campervan, be sure to check this very handy pdf produced by Visit Outer Hebrides, listing chemical toilet disposal points, recycling points, and other places of relevance for campervanners. 

UIST HOSTELS AND BUNKHOUSES

Berneray Hostel | Traditional white-washed and thatched roof houses on the coast. No advanced bookings taken. Cash/cheque only

John’s Bunkhouse | Modern bunkhouse built in a traditional style

The Tractor Shed Pods and Bunkhouse | Turf-roofed camping pods and bunkhouse, campervan pitches too

Moorcroft Holidays Hostel | Small hostel overlooking a tidal bay, with campsite and glamping pods too

Nunton House Hostel | Large, historic building with four small en-suite dorm rooms

Howmore Hostel | Traditional thatched-roof white-washed cottage next to historic church ruins. Run by the same organisation as Berneray Hostel. No advance bookings taken, cash/cheque only

Kilbride Hostel | Located next to Kilbride Campsite and Kilbride Cafe. Six en-suite rooms of various sizes

UIST GLAMPING PODS

Air a’ Chroit Luxury Pods | T wo stylish pods with well appointed kitchenettes, bathrooms, and outdoor seating areas

Baleshare Bothies | Two cosy pods close to Baleshare Beach

Moorcroft Holidays Glamping | Three pods overlooking a tidal bay, sharing the grounds with the hostel and campsite

The Wee Haven | A cosy pod with an outdoor decking area

Uist Storm Pods | Two pods tucked into a hillside and overlooking a loch, close to Lochboisdale

Beag Na Haun Pod | Attractive pod with outdoor deck overlooking a tidal bay

UIST B&Bs

The Fisherman’s Snug B&B | Cosy snug in a family home with separate entrance, kitchenette, and bathroom

Benview B&B | Two rooms in a luxury B&B plus a separate lodge (with hot tub!)

Grianaig Guest House B&B | Modern, stylish B&B with four en-suite rooms

An Taigh Mor B&B | Three en-suite rooms in a modern home set in a beautiful location overlooking the Sound of Barra

UIST HOTELS

Hamersay House | Small hotel and brasserie in Lochmaddy

Langass Lodge | Former shooting lodge with acclaimed restaurant

Temple View Hotel | Convenient location on main road at the southern end of North Uist

Dark Island Hotel | Country-style hotel, bar, and restaurant

Isle of Benbecula House Hotel | Old-fashioned hotel on main road by Benbecula/South Uist causeway

Borrodale Hotel | Traditional hotel and restaurant on main road leading through South Uist

Lochboisdale Hotel | Historic building overlooking Lochboisdale harbour

Polochar Inn | Beautiful location at southern end of South Uist, original inn dates from 1750. Lively bar, good restaurant, and great views

UIST SELF-CATERING ACCOMMODATION

Uist Forest Retreat | Unique accommodation in cabins hidden in the forest looking out towards Vallay tidal island

Seas The Day Lodge | Modern, stylish, self-contained lodge

An Taigh Dubh | Restored blackhouse with thatched roof and modern interior

Smiddy Cottage | Beautiful stone and thatched-roof cottage holiday home at the southern end of South Uist

UIST CAMPSITES

Clachan Sands Informal Campsite | Informal camping area on grass overlooking Clachan Sands ( Traigh Hornais and Traigh Lingeigh). £10 per night, no facilities besides a bin and water tap. Popular with campervans

Balranald Campsite | Great location next to the beach and RSPB nature reserve, with The Dunes Cabin onsite

Moorcroft Holidays | Small campsite overlooking a tidal bay, also a hostel and glamping pods

Otters Edge Campsite | Convenient and central location on Uist

Kilbride Campsite |  Attractive location at southern end of South Uist, overlooking the Sound of Barra. Good cafe onsite, plus a hostel

BROWSE OUR SCOTLAND PRINT COLLECTION

HOW TO GET TO UIST

You can get to Uist by sea (CalMac ferry) or by air (Loganair prop plane), with the ferry being by far the most common method of travel. Advance ferry reservations are recommended if you are travelling with a vehicle, especially during the peak summer season. Changes can be made free of charge online or by calling CalMac customer services.

FERRY FROM UIG TO LOCHMADDY (NORTH UIST)

The car ferry from Uig (pronounced oo -ig) on the Isle of Skye to Lochmaddy on North Uist takes around 1 hour 45 minutes, and makes the journey once or twice a day. There is a bridge connecting Skye to mainland Scotland.

Check the ferry schedule and make a reservation on the CalMac website.

FERRY FROM MALLAIG TO LOCHBOISDALE (SOUTH UIST)

The car ferry from Mallaig on mainland Scotland to Lochboisdale in South Uist takes 3 hours 30 minutes, departing once or twice a day.

FERRY FROM ARDMHOR (BARRA) TO ERISKAY

A car ferry connects Barra and Eriskay 5 times a day. It takes about 40 minutes to cross the Sound of Barra.

The ferry at Eriskay, having just crossed the Sound of Barra from Ardmhor

FERRY FROM LEVERBURGH (HARRIS) TO BERNERAY

The car ferry between Harris and Berneray operates between three and five times a day. It takes about 1 hour to cross the Sound of Harris.

FLIGHTS TO BENBECULA

Loganair operates direct flights a few times a week from Glasgow to Benbecula (approx 1 hour journey time), and from Inverness with a touchdown in Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis (approx 3 hours 30 minutes total journey time). There is a max luggage allowance of 15 kg. You can compare flight options and prices via Skyscanner .

PLAN A TRIP ON THE NORTH COAST 500

BUILD YOUR TRIP AROUND THE OUTSTANDING HIGHLIGHTS OF THE NC500

GOT PLENTY OF TIME? EXTEND YOUR NC500 JOURNEY AND SEE MORE OF SCOTLAND

HOW TO GET AROUND UIST

Get around uist.

The most convenient way to get around Uist is by car , which you can hire on the island or bring on the ferry. Local hire companies include Car Hire Hebrides , Laing Motors , and Ask Car Hire .

There is a public bus service operating throughout the islands from Monday – Saturday (no Sunday service). You can check the bus timetables here .

Cycling is also a great way to get around. You can hire bikes (including electric bikes) from Heb E-Bike Hire on Grimsay, Bike Uist on North Uist, and Lasgair Bike Hire on South Uist. Or, bring your own on the ferry.

THANKS FOR READING!

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Kim and Del Hogg

If you’ve found this guide helpful, please consider leaving us a small tip.

Your support is greatly appreciated and helps cover the costs of running this blog.

We hope you enjoyed our guide to the best things to do on Uist. If you have any questions, drop them in the comments below, and if you’ve been before, we’d love to hear about your own experience on the islands.

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Stories My Suitcase Could Tell

21 Must-Have Travel Experiences in the Outer Hebrides

May 11, 2016 By Katie MacLeod 40 Comments

There’s more to the Outer Hebrides than the guidebooks would have you believe – but don’t just take my word for it.  Visit these islands for yourself, and take this list of essential travel experiences with you!

See the sunset (or the Northern Lights) at the Callanish Stones.

The Callanish Stones are older than Stonehenge, and in my opinion, much more atmospheric.  From the air, the stones are laid out in the shape of a Celtic cross, and up close, you can admire their varying shapes and sizes.

As if the stones themselves weren’t enough, their location on the West Side of Lewis is stunning, offering panoramic views across hills and moorland.  Visit the stones at sunset, when the changing light makes the place seem almost magical; or brave the cold winter nights for a sighting of the Northern Lights dancing above the ancient pillars.

Walk on the Caribbean-esque beaches of West Harris.

Luskentyre, Seilebost, Horgabost, Scarista: the beaches on the west coast of Harris are regularly listed as some of the best in the UK (and even the world).  Once you’ve visited them, it’s easy to see why.  You’ll find pure white sand, azure seas, and the entire place all to yourself.  The only difficult part will be choosing which ones to spend your time at.  My advice? Stop at every single one.

Watch planes land on the beach at Barra Airport .

Barra Airport is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach runway.  Due to the tidal nature of the airport, the planes aren’t always on time – but watching one land on the sand is more than worth the wait.  If you want to fly into the airport yourself (and who wouldn’t?), FlyBe offer a £75 day return ticket for tourists travelling to Barra from Glasgow. You can bet it’s on my bucket list!

Sail to St Kilda , the ‘islands at the edge of the world.’

The isolated archipelago of St Kilda lies 40 miles west of the Outer Hebrides, and is home to the highest sea cliffs in Britain – not to mention some of the largest wild bird populations in Europe (hello, pufflings!).  The last inhabitants were evacuated in 1930, and their abandoned village feels weighted with history.  This double World Heritage site is unlike anywhere else on earth, and visiting St Kilda with Sea Harris in 2014 remains one of my all-time favourite travel experiences.

Enjoy a dram (and some scones) at the Harris Distillery in Tarbert.

The Isle of Harris Distillers Ltd only opened in the autumn of 2015, and it’s already earned its spot on the must-visit list for tourists. Take a tour of the distillery to learn the ins and outs of the process, and to see just how intertwined with the local community this ‘social distillery’ is.  While the whisky is still in production, you can leave with a beautiful bottle of their Isle of Harris Gin (and a scone from the canteen – they’re the best I’ve ever tried!).

Taste Stornoway Black Pudding at the source.

Don’t think about the ingredients that go into making the (in)famous Stornoway Black Pudding – just eat it!  This delicious ‘blood sausage’ (known as a ‘marag’ in Gaelic ) is protected under EU law, and can be eaten in a myriad of ways.

I like mine sliced and fried on a breakfast roll with some rashers of bacon and a potato scone (the perfect way to start the weekend), but I’ve also enjoyed it deep fried in small nibbles and served as a starter with seaweed and chilli sauce, at Hotel Hebrides in Harris. Everyone has their own favourite supplier, so make your way into any of the butchers in Stornoway to buy a marag straight from the source.

Smell the peat smoke at the Arnol Blackhouse.

My Dad loves to tell the story of the first time I visited the Arnol Blackhouse, a traditional thatched Lewis house typical of those lived in until the early 20 th century. Right in the middle of the stone floor is a peat fire, with a kettle dangling on a chain over it – I thought it smelled marvellous, and asked why we didn’t live in a house like this.

Unsurprisingly, most visitors to this museum take a slightly different view of the smell.  Peat smoke aside, the Arnol Blackhouse is a fascinating insight into a long-gone way of life in the islands.

Feast on a 40 North Foods picnic at Dal Beg Beach.

Everything at 40 North Foods – a small, takeaway only, croft-to-table food business – is out-of-this-world delicious.  Whether you opt for a salad box filled with a variety of smoked meats (and maybe some actual salad), or one of the freshly made sandwiches, there’s plenty to choose from for your picnic.

If you can refrain from tucking in straight away, drive ten minutes further down the road until you reach the signs for Dal Beg, where you can find a chair-shaped stone on the beach and enjoy your lunch to the soundtrack of pounding waves.

Invest in some Harris Tweed, the champagne of fabrics.

Harris Tweed is the only textile protected by an Act of Parliament: only tweed that has been hand woven by weavers in their homes in the Hebrides can be designated Harris Tweed.  The depth of colour is achieved by dying the wool first, and then weaving it into lengths of material that is transformed into everything from Chanel jackets to hotel furnishings.

The tweed mills don’t (usually) offer tours to the public, but you can get your shopping fix in Stornoway (at the Harris Tweed Hebrides flagship store, or quirky independent designer By Rosie), or in Tarbert at the Harris Tweed Shop.

Indulge in luxurious isolation at The Broch at Borve Lodge.

This luxurious self-catering property in Borve on the Isle of Harris is the definition of secluded.  Created for couples, and built in the style of an Iron Age broch, the tower blends perfectly into the landscape, making it easy to miss from the road.  Inside, you’ll find high-end touches like under-floor heating, slate counter tops, and a four-poster bed that sits below a skylight – perfect for star gazing before drifting off to sleep. (I stayed here for a ‘ holiday at home ‘ a few years ago, and it was absolute bliss.)

Get a taste of the crofting life at Air an Lot in Ness.

Crofting was once a way of life for every family in the islands; these days, the number of crofters is smaller, but they’re no less dedicated.  Domhnall ‘Sweeny’ MacSween opened up his croft in Ness in the north of Lewis to visitors, allowing them to get a hands-on experience of crofting, whether that’s peat cutting, feeding animals, or even clearing out the hen house!  Whatever your age, you’ll have a fun – and informative – crofting experience here.  (Just don’t drop the Air an Lot ducklings like I did!)

Meet the Lewis Chessmen in Uig.

While you can see a selection of the Lewis Chessmen in London’s British Museum , Edinburgh’s National Museum of Scotland, and now Stornoway’s Museum nan Eilean, a visit to the spot where the intricately carved ivory chess pieces were discovered in 1831 is worth the drive.

The tiny figures were found by a terrified crofter who thought he had stumbled across the fairies, and when you’ve experienced the strange but peaceful isolation in the sand dunes of Uig, you can begin to understand the poor man’s reaction.

(And if the giant oak statue of the chess King in Uig looks familiar, it’s because the Lewis Chessmen were the inspiration behind the wizard’s chessboard in the first Harry Potter film, the Philosopher’s Stone.)

Stroll around Stornoway Harbour.

On a sunny day, there are a few things more enjoyable than grabbing a takeaway coffee (and cake) from Delights, and crossing the road to stroll alongside Stornoway Harbour.  If you follow the pier out to the small footbridge at Bayhead Street and into the Castle Grounds, you’ll be rewarded with picturesque panoramic views of the harbour and the colourful shops that line it.

Cross the bridge over the Atlantic to Great Bernera.

Fancy driving across the Atlantic? Then look no further than the bridge between the Isle of Lewis and Great Bernera, which crosses a (very small) sliver of the ocean.  It was the first bridge of its kind in Europe, built in 1953 after pressure from Bernera residents.

But don’t stop once you’ve crossed over to the other side: drive a little further and you’ll be rewarded by the beauty of Bosta Beach, a sheltered shell-sand beach framed by dark rocks and green, green grass.

Keep an eye out for otters in Benbecula and Uist.

The Outer Hebrides are one of the best places in Europe to see the European Otter, and in the southern portion of the islands they’re so common that there are road signs warning of their presence.  You’ll have to drive slowly anyway, so why not stop the car at one of the many sea lochs to take a closer look?

Follow in the footsteps of Bonnie Prince Charlie in Eriskay.

Charles Edward Stuart (aka Bonnie Prince Charlie) may have left the Western Isles by going ‘over the sea to Skye’, but the first place he apparently set foot in Scotland was on this beach on the island of Eriskay.  Follow in his footsteps with a stroll on the beach, and then recharge at another storied spot, Am Politician.

The island pub is named after the cargo ship full of whisky that sank here during WWII, and caused all sorts of calamities. For a funny fictional account of the escapades that followed, read Whisky Galore by Compton Mazkenzie (or watch the new film when it comes out later this year).

Get acquainted with the wild ponies in Loch Skipport, South Uist.

I found out about these unbelievably friendly ponies by accident, and I’m so glad we turned off the main road to say hello to them.  The minute they spot you, the ponies will come running – and stick their noses right into the car, if given the chance!

Explore the sea stacs and caves of Garry Beach.

Garry Beach in Tolsta on the Isle of Lewis is a favourite among children – the many sea stacs and caves that are accessible when the tide is out bring to mind adventure stories of smugglers and pirates and 10-year-olds that save the day (can you tell I was bookworm growing up?).  It’s a great spot for big kids too, and when you tire of playing hide and seek between the rocks, there are a few picnic tables to rest and recuperate at.

Dance the night (and day) away at the Hebridean Celtic Festival.

The atmosphere that invades the streets of Stornoway at festival time is infectious. Known simply as ‘ HebCelt ‘, the annual summer music extravaganza sees tourists flock to the islands from across the country (and around the world).  But it’s not just the musical acts in the big top tent that draw the crowds, but those in the pubs – and even on the streets – of Stornoway.

Buy tickets for this, and prepare to ceilidh through all hours of the day and night! (This year, the line up is spectacular, with the likes of Runrig, Red Hot Chilli Pipers, and Julie Fowlis taking to the stage. Let’s just say I’m more than a little jealous of everyone heading to the tent this July!)

Discover the secrets of the Lews Castle Grounds on a Segway Tour.

Segways don’t always have the best reputation – but that’s from people who’ve never tried an off-road segway before.  Segway Hebrides operates out of the Woodlands Centre in Stornoway’s Castle Grounds, and their hardy segways take you on tours of the grounds, from rushing rivers to steep climbs on narrow woodland paths.  It was freezing cold, pouring with rain, and blowing a gale the day I went on a tour – and I still loved it, so I can only imagine how much fun it would be on a sunny day.

Conquer your fear of heights at the Butt of Lewis.

Admittedly, this is an experience I’ve only had once or twice in my life, as I have not conquered my fear of heights (which is why you see a photo of the sign for the Butt of Lewis, Rubha Robhanais, not the cliff edges themselves).

For visitors to the Outer Hebrides however, this is an incredible location to visit.  The most northerly point of the island chain is rocky and dramatic, with a lighthouse beaming out its warning from cliffs of about 80 feet high.  But don’t risk visiting on a bad day: in winter, wind speeds regularly reach more than 100mph.

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Which Outer Hebrides highlights would you like to experience the most? Are there any sights or activities you would add to the list?

Let me know in the comments below – i’d love to hear from you, if you enjoyed this, you might like:.

The Outer Hebrides Travel Guide

10 Books To Read Before Visiting Scotland’s Outer Hebrides

A Mini Travel Guide to Stornoway

May 11, 2016 at 2:40 am

I am sitting in my kitchen typing this on a flawless day with 20℃ anticipated again looking out over Bayble Bay at the Highlands of Scotland’s mainland. I am reminded that if you set off from your parents’ house and walk to the cairn on the hill to the South you can see from Ardnamurchan to Cape Wrath as well as most of the higher points of Lewis and Harris. It’s magical but I suspect relatively few people have ever seen that view. I think I would probably add to you list a climb of the Clisham: preferably on a good day so that one can see St Kilda. Perhaps for those less able (as I am at the moment) or with less inclination for a hike, a drive south down the East of South Harris and back up the West of South Harris to see countryside as varied and spectacular as even a day’s drive in New Zealand might offer. As you say the list of things to see on these magnificent Islands is endless.

May 11, 2016 at 9:52 am

Thanks for your comment, Graham 🙂 I’m very jealous of your current view! There’s nowhere like the islands on a sunny day! I think I’ve done that walk from Eagleton before, back in the days when we still did peats, so I was very young, but I remember feeling as if I could see everything from up there. And I’ve done the Clisham once – that would have been a good one for the list! It was at the start of summer in 2011 and the weather was absolutely perfect for it.

May 11, 2016 at 10:32 am

Really loved this blog I just viewed. A year ago I was excitedly anticipating a road trip around Scotland Mainland and the Hebrides Islands of Lewis, Harris and Skye. We did see many of the places you have included in this blog. Our vacation was so much more than we ever hoped we would see. The time went way too fast. After almost a year has passed I can not get Scotland out of my mind, so I totally love reliving our trip thru your beautiful blogs. Thank you so much for sharing with us who lives so far away. I am from Florida and my daughter Washington DC. We dream of visiting Scotland again someday to see more that we to pass by on the first visit.

May 12, 2016 at 7:49 am

Thanks Cindy! I am so happy to hear you loved your holiday to Scotland – and especially Lewis and Harris 🙂 I really hope you get to visit again sometime!

May 11, 2016 at 11:08 am

Great read, and love that you have such a varied lineup! I was born and brought up on Great Bernera so it was lovely seeing that it made the list, especially since it’s almost always overshadowed by Uig and its beautiful landscapes. Well done for making the effort and going for the less obvious attractions of home… keep up the great work!

May 12, 2016 at 7:52 am

Thanks so much Mairi! Great Bernera was a relatively recent visit for me. I’d been when I was in Primary School, on the school day out, but for whatever reasons I didn’t make it back again until summer 2014 – and Bosta just blew me away! I went back again when I was home in March, and even though the weather wasn’t great, it was still beautiful 🙂

May 11, 2016 at 12:48 pm

Katie…..loved this blog. Beautiful photography. No photos of Port of Ness Beach or the village which I miss so much. Perhaps your next visit…..LOL. Please try a visit to Northern Michigan someday. I think you would love it; our Great Lakes are like inland oceans…..not Ness, but I’ll take it in the meantime. Love your writing; keep traveling and writing; you are a very talented young lady. Regards,.

May 12, 2016 at 7:58 am

Thanks so much, Christine, I’m so glad you enjoyed it 🙂 Haha I do love Port of Ness – next time! I’d love to make it out to Michigan sometime. When I do I’ll be asking you for tips 🙂 !

May 11, 2016 at 4:02 pm

How very interesting and such gorgeous pics! I have always wanted to visit the Hebrides and Outer Hebrides…wow…seeing the sunset and Northern Lights at the Callanish Stones must be out of this world. So glad I discovered your blog.

May 12, 2016 at 7:59 am

Thank you Birgit! I hope you make it to the islands sometime soon 🙂

May 11, 2016 at 5:37 pm

Lovely blog Katie, good advert for our lovely island. Mind you, living in Bernera, I am a little biased! Love your photos too which show the fabulous colours and the fantastic light, the pattern and texture and the immense sky and sea that we are a part off.

May 12, 2016 at 8:01 am

Thanks so much, Ros! Glad you enjoyed it 🙂 I love the light at home – and it’s only when I’ve been away, and surrounded by skyscrapers, that I really appreciate how ‘big’ the sky really seems at home.

May 12, 2016 at 3:20 am

No mention of the Isle of scalpay , which is joined by a bridge between Harris and scalpay it boasts one of the first lighthouses built by the stevenson family of which Robert louie the author and a great little restaurant at the local community shop in North harbour. I hope you get a chance to visit us soon . P.s.the owner of the bistro

May 12, 2016 at 8:04 am

Hello George! Don’t worry, the Isle of Scalpay will be on the blog soon 🙂 The bistro actually came up in conversation with friends in Washington, D.C. this weekend – we popped in for lunch in March, and Mr. Stories My Suitcase Could Tell was saying it served the best seafood he’s ever had!

May 18, 2016 at 9:26 am

Your list is great. Here are a few of my other favourites: A trip with Seatrek. A walk down the Barvas Machair with a stop at the salmon pools. A night at the sheiling on the Barvas Moor. Cutting peats and waiting for your first smell of a peat fire after you get off the ferry. Gathering cockles in Uist. A drive around Grimosaigh. Fresh seafood from Kallin. Feeding pet lambs. Machair potatoes. A cup of tea and visit with relatives.

May 22, 2016 at 3:30 pm

Thanks for all these great suggestions, Janet! I used to love going to the peats when I was a child (although I didn’t have to do any of the hard work then!).

May 18, 2016 at 4:25 pm

Hi there for those who don’t have a car gordon of Harris365 is doing tours this year, a local man who also does photographs, he’ll take you to any of the iconic spots!

Thanks for that bit of info, Fi! I love Gordon’s photos – I bet his photo tours will be brilliant!

May 26, 2016 at 10:16 am

Yes to all of these! I would like – before we leave Scotland one day – to do a massive one month trip to the Outer Hebrides! I want to fly to Barra and do kite surfing, and I want to see those crystal water beaches, see the wild ponies, would love to stay in a blackhouse for a night, see the Callanish stones (and northern lights on top would be amazing!). I’ve recently invested in a handbag and purse made of harris tweed and I regret nothing. 😀

June 5, 2016 at 12:48 pm

A month would be perfect – especially in the summer! And I support you on the Harris Tweed purchase 100% haha – I have a Harris Tweed blazer I bought just before I moved to the US and I love it!

August 3, 2016 at 12:30 pm

Thank you for this & all your other writings on the Outer Hebrides Katie. Ive just booked up my 1st trip there next week & cannot wait,taking my 3yo boy(already completed a successful trial run to Arran!) From Ayrshire to Mallaig-Skye-Tarbert. 2 nights camping at Shawbost then back onto the mainland via Stornoway. A quick trip but will pack plenty in i’m sure & all being well (3year-old & weather) will stop off for a night somewhere on the way home.

August 3, 2016 at 6:12 pm

Thank you for the kind words, Alan! It sounds like you’ve got a great holiday planned – I hope you and your son have a wonderful time 🙂

August 4, 2016 at 11:08 am

If anyone is interested, there are camping pods available at Callanish that are a short walk away from the stones. This means you can spend as much time as you want there after all the tourist coaches have left.

August 4, 2016 at 9:57 pm

Thanks for sharing this, Paul – it sounds like it would be a great experience!

March 7, 2017 at 7:37 pm

Katie, Thanks for your blog, gives us great insight. My 3 time Great Grandfather (Ronald O’Handley), wife and 9 children left South Uist for Eastern Canada (PEI then CBI) in 1823 & as far as I know, none of us have been back. I’ve been thinking about a visit for some time so this kind of information & the comments it solicits are invaluable. Thanks again. Hugh

March 8, 2017 at 7:30 am

Thanks for your comment, Hugh, I’m so pleased the blog has been helpful for you. How interesting to hear that you have a connection to the islands – I’m sure you would love it if you visited 🙂

March 8, 2017 at 2:45 am

We’re hopefull to be there early May ..you’re blog has inspired us to just go !

March 8, 2017 at 7:33 am

Thank you Susan – I’m absolutely delighted to hear that! That really means so much to me. I hope you have an amazing time!

March 8, 2017 at 3:17 pm

A really comprehensive list! We spent a week touring the Outer Hebrides several years ago and your blog really captures the magic of the islands. Must think about another visit soon!

March 9, 2017 at 7:30 am

Thanks so much for your lovely comment Nigel! I hope you get back to visit soon 🙂

May 9, 2017 at 12:17 pm

So many awesome things! I honestly think Stonehenge is so overrated when you’ve got the Callanish Stones and even the Ring Of Brodgar here. Interestingly, I just googled a couple of things because I’m sure the cliffs on one of Orkney’s islands is the highest in the UK. Guess what? Both of them have that description! But I think the one here is the highest vertical. Think I’d definitely get some vertigo with both of them, anyway!

A lot of things sound similar to Orkney, although that’s unsurprising really. I definitely need to visit!!

Interesting fact about that chess king, too! 🙂

May 9, 2017 at 2:49 pm

I’m happy to hear someone else agrees me about Stonehenge being overrated haha! I’d love to see the Ring of Brodgar (although I’d probably have to keep away from those cliffs!). I bet there are quite a few similarities between the islands. My brother lives in the north of Scotland now, so I need to make it over to Orkney one of these days!

September 17, 2017 at 5:33 pm

This post has me so excited for my upcoming trip to the Outer Hebrides. Basing myself in Finsbay, Isle of Harris and have 10 days to explore the islands. This will be my 5th trip to Scotland, but my first to the Outer Hebrides

October 2, 2017 at 3:11 pm

I’m so glad it’s helped you get ready for your trip, Jill! Harris is beautiful, and with 10 days you’ll have lots of time to explore all the other islands, too!

October 2, 2017 at 7:23 pm

Katie..what a wonderful blog..the way you describe the Outer Hebrides..my wife are visiting them soon…and can only say..we just cannot wait to see the beauty you describe….thank you…its been a pleasure to read…

October 3, 2017 at 8:03 am

Thank you Stanley, I’m so happy to hear you’ve enjoyed reading the blog. I hope you and your wife have a wonderful time in the islands!

May 13, 2018 at 4:33 am

Hi Katie what a great read that was. I’m a Scot living abroad in Australia. I’m coming home for a month and will be campervanning around the Outer Hebrides. I’ve jotted down your great suggestions and make sure I’ll be seeing them all. Thank you!

December 5, 2019 at 9:03 am

And its 2019, Almost 2020 already! Still a ggreat article! Proud to say: been there, done that, except for The hebceltfestival. And going back as soon As I can. How are you doing nowadays? Any new stories About the OH? Kind regards! ?????????

January 1, 2020 at 4:54 am

Either at the Butt of Lewis or at Tumpain Head take time (perhaps with a picnic lunch or flask of soup, or bottle of beer) to watch for the abundance of cetaceans that visit the area. Check out the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust website hwdt.org and WhaleTrail for more information about what you might see, and for other well known hotspots.

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Best walks in the outer hebrides, a tour with wilderness scotland.

Exploring Harris and Lewis with Wilderness Scotland

It’s maybe the best feeling there is. Top of a mountain in one of the world’s most emotionally-charged places, in good company, a little sunburnt (what?!?) and surrounded by breathtaking island beauty. Those that know me or that are familiar with my travel ramblings will be unsurprised to learn that the Outer Hebrides have a very special place in my heart. Hyperbolic and a tad mushy as it may sound, there is something overwhelmingly captivating about this far-away little segment of this fabulous country. When the opportunity to join a walking tour of Harris and Lewis with Wilderness Scotland came up, a free week appeared as if by magic in my packed travel diary.

I love hiking, always have and always will. Ditto for the Western Isles . Throw in a lovely bunch of travel companions, the organisation and experience of a leading outdoor specialist and I’m there with bells on. Spread over the course of a very busy week, this extended walking tour is perfect for those with an existing love or interest in the area or – having heard tell of its unmatched magnificence – the desire to be properly introduced. Here’s a breakdown of the tour and a proper look at some of the best walks in the Outer Hebrides .

Clisham – North Harris

The only place to start, this beauty is the highest point in the Western Isles and has been a bucket-lister for me for some time. I know Harris well. I know and love the beaches of South Harris , the lunar landscapes in the north, the constant whiff of Viking and Gaelic presence in the air and the lure of the local seafood and gin ( Harris Gin , dear god by the way) hubs along the way. But Clisham delivers something very different to my mind’s eye view of the place. Powerful and mysterious, it proudly glares down on passers-by on the A859, calling out to be conquered.

At 799 metres (a Corbett) it’s a challenging climb and, although popular, is not one for beginners. The initial ascent is clear but steep from the car park and heading to the north east of the main road. With views improving by the step you’ll be beside yourself on summiting – skirting around dramatic loose rocks and with the whole island in view. While most will take the return route by the same way, we make a full day of it by continuing on the obvious horseshoe shaped ridge. The 4 peaks that we took in present very different views throughout and with Golden Eagles looming overhead, beaches visible to the south and spirits high in the group, even an ordinarily challenging descent is full of fun.

Ceapabhal – South Harris

Short but oh so incredibly sweet is this absolute beauty of a walk in the turquoise beach lovers’ mecca of South Harris. A rough and steep ascent from the village of Northton (passing the odd Highland Cow or two between pants), it is tough on the limbs but suitable for most levels of hiker. Ceapabhal boasts one of the most impressive backdrops you’ll find – with North Uist , Taransay and even Skye and St Kilda (on a very clear day) joining the plethora of beach porn on display in all directions.

Following completion of the ascent, we took the long way home via Toe Head and snaking all the way around the coast of the peninsula with the just stunning Scarista on our left. 20 degrees, clear skies, good company, kilted (of course) and with views I’ll never forget – so ends maybe the best outdoor day in Scotland I’ve ever had. For more of my favourite hikes around Scotland, read this .

The walk to Bosta Beach – Great Bernera

Harris doesn’t quite hold all the trump cards when it comes to beaches and Bosta is up there battling it out for the top spots without question. We took on this route as an easy introduction on arrival in the Outer Hebrides with the beach being the prize on completion. Starting at the Community Centre just past Breacleit, the route is a low level wander across the western coastline of Great Bernera and is the most straightforward of the walks on this list. Allow 2-3 hours.

The magnificent beach faces across the water to Little Bernera and an Iron Age settlement was uncovered here in 1992. Building remains dating from the 6 th to 8 th Century AD add further interest to another of the gems of the Outer Hebrides. I took the opportunity to go bounding about gleefully (I do that a lot in these parts, can’t be helped) in the overlooking stretches of coastline in search of the best angles. What a feeling! You remember the Flashdance video? Yeah. That. In a kilt.

Muladal, Ulabhal, Oireabhal & Cleiseabhal – North Harris

Here comes an intense day so pack your stamina. You’ll have earned your dinner at the end of this peak marathon that starts by the roadside halfway along the B887 road to Hushinish on the west coast.

It would be fair to say you can expect to have this route almost, if not entirely, to yourself. Which is half the charm. We picked one of the windiest days of the year to take the 4 peaks on and it made for some interesting shapes as the full force of nature had its way. The summit of Ulabhal was particularly gobsmacking as a sheer drop provides one of the most dramatic vistas imaginable. Throw in distant views of Luskentyre beaches and add this to the list of truly stunning Scottish climbs.

Gearranannan Blackhouse Village and West Lewis

The restored 19 th Century Blackhouse Village to the north of Carloway is a favourite with photographers and gives an interesting insight into the life of local crofters and fishermen who would have made a home from this kind of settlement. Well worth a half hour nosey, a coastal walk to explore the area further is well rewarded.

With the drama of the Atlantic for company, the 2+hours route snakes around the coast in a circular trail ending back at Carloway. Look out for the Lewisian gneiss that makes up so much of the rocky landscapes in these parts and the omnipresent Golden Eagles – who have been so ubiquitous on this trip that they are becoming mundane!

Luskentyre – Central Harris

Just to tease, we waited until the final day before taking in the lusciousness of Luskentyre. Widely regarded as the best beach we’ve got, today’s exertion culminated in a walk on the golden sands of this vast expanse.

The walk itself is of Beinn Dubh, a fairy steep and steadily-climbing peak involving some rock clambering but glances to your left of the maze of mini-streams in the sands will keep you going, with a smile. Involving multiple little mounds the route is open to interpretation (there’s no path) but you can’t go far wrong. The starting point is anywhere along the minor road off the A859 and running alongside the beach; the end at the north end of the sand where you can follow the beach all the way back to the start. Food for the soul in every sense. While I did dip my toe, incidentally, it was so excruciating that the process lasted only a few seconds. Okay, not quite perfect, but close.

Walking Practicalities

As with so much of rural Scotland , spring and autumn are the best time to go. Avoiding the crowds but getting the best shot at good weather, you may even finding yourself applying the suncream from time to time.

Wilderness Scotland are very clear about the difficulty levels of the walks on their itineraries and there should be no big surprises. That said it is always important to know your limits and build up some preparation time if you’re not a regular hiker.

You will also be supplied with a suggested kit list of things to pack, a useful touch as there’s lots to consider here. From good quality boots to appropriate baselayers, you’ll make your life infinitely easier having the right clothing, tools and accessories to hand.

Now, important point here. The Outer Hebrides are off the beaten trail somewhat when it comes to hikes and well-trodden routes are rare. With no Munros on the islands, many of the keenest hikers look elsewhere and therefore paths and facilities for walkers are minimal.

The Package

For the purposes of this walking tour food, accommodation, transport and entry fees are provided by Wilderness Scotland. Handily this makes it entirely possible that you will hardly have to open your wallet for the duration of your trip. This is potentially a big deal, especially for international visitors, as all those mental currency calculations, attempts to figure out weird coins and notes and the hassle of day-to-day budgeting can be set aside. While not a budget trip, my view is that it does represent good value given the quality on offer in every sense.

You will join a group of like-minded travellers under the supervision of an expert guide. In this case my tour was with Paul, who couldn’t have been better. Representing the face of the company, it’s a vital role and his knowledge, experience, flexibility and personality made the trip really special. A lot of laughs were had within the group – from pulling our hair out at the challenge of someone (anyone!) who would sell us some beer to scouring the landscapes for sightings of spectacular wildlife. Paul had us covered all the way and was constantly attentive to individual and collective needs.

Accommodation was excellent. Provided by Soval Lodge in Lewis it was an ideal base for exploring both Harris and Lewis, with super-helpful staff on hand to provide all the necessary comfort after a long day on the hoof.

Also included as a smashing bonus was the opportunity to get out on the water for some wildlife spotting. A private RIB was provided to take us around the many little islets of Lewis where we spotted Sea Eagles, did some fishing (I was dismal, no-one else was) and cruised along accompanied by curious puffins and kittiwakes.

Aside from the obvious focus on walking and the great outdoors, the tour did also include visits to some of the best historical and cultural attractions on offer. Sunset at Callanish with every hair you’ve got standing on end, a nosey around fantastically preserved Dun Calloway and various stops to ogle over Harris Tweed were all fitted in. A finer week is very hard to imagine.

While I was invited by Wilderness Scotland to join them on this Outer Hebrides trip, I only ever promote businesses that I think are top of the line. In truth I’ve had my eye on them for some time – they have an excellent reputation in the industry and offer a first class range of tours and trips. I have not the slightest hesitation in recommending them to any visitor to Scotland looking for an authentic outdoor experience.

Here’s me chatting a bit more about this area with local islander and friend, Donald Macinnes, on Radio Scotland. Just press play to listen to the recording:

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A Quick Hello From Scotland

Many thanks, Neil, for this fantastic walking tour of the Outer Hebrides. I was able to spend three days on Lewis and Harris last September, but your post really opened my eyes to some new places I want to visit. Your photos are beautiful, I find the barren, rocky landscape on these islands just stunning. I will definitely return to Lewis and Harris and this post will be of great assistance—thanks again!

Delighted you found it useful Robert and thanks for the comment. I’m a regular over there too and learned a lot – it just keeps on giving! 🙂

I spent a week touring from Lewis down to Barra a few weeks ago (fabulous weather!) and this was a lovely reminder. Just printed out some of my pics to gaze at when it’s grey in Glasgow. One of the best holidays I’ve had. Thanks for tips for my next trip.

Thanks Mhairi and glad you got the breaks with the weather too. Being a Glasgow boy myself I may do the same!

Amazing blog! I stumbled virtually across you whilst looking for tit bits to help plan my 5 days in Lewis and Harris mid November. Any tips for off the beaten track hikes for a single lass always welcome.

Off season I’d say just about everywhere is off the beaten path up there! Clisham and Ceapabhal a bit of a must. Heard good things about Mangersta beach too. Have fun up there!

I know it’s been three years since you did this trip with Wilderness Scotland do…perhaps it has changed but I cannot find the trip you outline. Was it specially designed for you or perhaps they have changed it. Kindly, Maryann

Hmmm, it could well have changed Maryann yes, or it could be under review ahead of the new tourism season. I’d contact them directly to get an update.

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Lost in Travel

"Like all great travellers, I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen"

What Is My Favourite Island In The Outer Hebrides?

It has been a few weeks now since I explored the eye-opening Outer Hebrides! Everything I saw was breath-taking and changed my viewpoint on the world and Scotland in general.

Every sheep, beach and natural landscape was fascinating and made for a remarkably unique holiday. Even though it didn’t go to plan, I wouldn’t change it. This holiday gave us hurdles but we leaped over successfully and it truly was a brilliant time up north.

There is one verdict I have to decide on though… What is my favourite island? We adventured far and wide, up and down and saw everything there is to see on many of the Scottish islands.

In this blog, I will breakdown my overall thoughts on each island we explored and come up with an answer.

Isle of Barra

Barra is the most westerly island in the UK and has a population of 1,078 (reported by the 2001 census). With its white sandy beaches, Barra stood out for being the smallest island we visited.

Everything felt connected due to the closeness of it all. You definitely felt like you were stranded on an island – away from civilisation.

The weather wasn’t spectacular when we visited the Isle of Barra. It was that windy our tent was ruined and we had to sleep in the car. Albeit this, we got up early and explored the island and saw the beauty in alright conditions. Barra airport was interesting due to how the plane landed on the smooth beach – a bucket list experience I’d love to do! Kisimul castle was also fascinating and something I’d love to see more off if I ever return.

Barra isn’t my favourite island in the Outer Hebrides but I’m glad I’ve been. Feeling that cramped environment was different from any other island, however, I preferred the wide open landscapes. Barra is definitely worth the visit but it wouldn’t do you weeks of staying put. Add this as your 1st destination on your Island Hopping adventure – getting the ferry from Oban to Castlebay. Moving up north will increase the beauty you desire.

Isle of Vatersay

If you go to the Isle of Barra then the Isle of Vatersay is certainly an island you should check out!

Vatersay is the southernmost island in the Hebrides and is attached to Barra by causeway.

This island has some stunning beaches and is where the picturesque gate is located. If you are lucky you may spot the cows chilling on the beach!

A traumatising experience is visiting the plane rubble on the island. This plane crashed taking WW2 soldiers home which is truly tragic! You may feel empty while walking around the abandoned parts of steel but something you should commemorate when at Vatersay.

I enjoyed my time at Vatersay and glad I got to see it with my own eyes.

Isle of Eriskay

If you are a history-lover then the Isle of Eriskay is one for you!

Travelling up from Barra by ferry on the way to the Uist islands will take you to the ancient isle. This island is famous for being where Bonnie Prince Charlie 1st stepped foot on Scottish soil.

When I was there I roamed around the neighbourhood, glancing at the war graves and letting the wind hit me in the face. An interesting island that we should be grateful for the causeway connecting it to South Uist.

Isle of South Uist

We were lucky enough to be booked into the Polochar inn on the Isle of South Uist. Due to rearrangements, we were struggling to find accommodation not fully-booked so before going to the Outer Hebrides, think again if you are camping. The weather is unpredictable and the warmth of a BnB sounds better than the patter of rain on a tent.

South Uist was remarkable for its mile long white beaches and nature trails. It was surprisingly mainly flat with mountains scattered around infrequently. The flattest of the Isles.

Beforehand I kept on saying Uist will lowkey be my favourite island and even though it isn’t my favourite, I am thankful I had the chance to visit.

This islands downfall is not having much to do. The landscape was stunning – don’t get me wrong – but that is all it was. Grasslands for miles.

Isle of Benbecula, North Uist & Berneray

The causeways joined all of these islands together to tie up a natural masterpiece.

Benbecula is home to an airport and I could go on and on about the incredible beach we visited there! The contrast was unnaturally special. One way you’d look and you’d be staring at white, fluffy seashores, stared in the opposite direction and you’d be looking at plain farmlands. Scotland is astonishingly fantastic!

We didn’t visit North Uist or Berneray that much (only drove through) but Berneray is where the CalMac ferry comes to carry you to the Isle of Harris.

Isle of Harris

A month prior to this trip, I explored the Isle of Harris with my friends. We trekked and cycled the island and saw the beauty of the East Coast. We couldn’t go much further due to the constraints of having a bike. This is my reason for stating having a motor vehicle is the best way to sightsee the islands.

Isle of Harris was as gorgeous as it was previous. The West Coast had a rich beauty like no other though. The turquoise waters and Luskentyre Beach was exceptional and made me say “Wow” aloud.

The East coast was mountainous and rugged – an ultimately different landscape from the other side.

Tarbert was a nice wee town, where visiting the Harris distillery for some of their iconic gin and buying Harris Tweed is a must! I see Harris Tweed making in a new light since visiting the Outer Hebrides. The dedication is inspirational.

Harris is a worthy visit, not only during an island hopping trip but by itself. If you just want to relax by the calm waves then Harris is the isle for you!

Isle of Lewis

The Isle of Lewis is the most northern of the western isles and is bordered by Harris (it is the same island but split by territories). This island is my absolute favourite and it isn’t due to it sharing my name.

The Isle of Lewis had everything for an adventurers passion. The beautiful beaches; some even had crystal-clear waters, City life: Stornoway, even though, in my opinion, it wasn’t the most well done city in Scotland. Rugged terrain, flat land, wildlife at its finest!

Some unique attractions such as: The Callanish Stones, the blackhouses – which present the origins of living on the island, Seastacks and the Butt of Lewis are definitely hotspots you should add to your list if they aren’t there already!

The Isle of Lewis is also where my favourite beach in the world is situated! This beach is unnamed, so therefore, I call it the Butt of Lewis beach as it isn’t far from the northern lighthouse. This beach is secluded and a nice getaway for some relaxation. The sand was very smooth and the water was so clear you’d think you where sunbathing in the Caribbean.

The Isle of Lewis was like living a dream – a must see island if you ever decide to explore Scotland. ❤

There may have been some islands I never visited, like the inhabited St. Kilda – which I wish to see to see someday because of its magnificent puffin population, but I hope I’ve helped compile a list of islands worth visiting. The Isle of Lewis is one of the reasons Scotland is talked about in discussion of most beautiful countries in the world.

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Hiking , Outer Hebrides , Packing Lists , Travel Guides , Trekking

The complete hebridean way hiking guide.

The Outer Hebrides – also called the Western Isles – have always been a popular road trip and cycling destination, but in May 2017 a new long-distance hiking route opened which spans 155 miles from Vatersay in the south to Lewis in the north. In summer 2018, I hiked the Hebridean Way on my own and discovered the Outer Hebrides on foot.

This is a complete guide to everything you need to know about hiking the Hebridean Way: how to prepare and what to pack, where to stay and eat, what to see off the trail and of course, how to navigate this path across one of the remotest places in Scotland!

This post contains affiliate links which I may make a commission from. Find out more here . My trip was supported by Vaude with gifted camping equipment, CalMac with complimentary ferry tickets and VisitScotland who covered my accommodation in Stornoway. All opinions are my own.

Table of Contents

Hebridean Way FAQ

Where is the hebridean way.

The Hebridean Way is a long-distance hiking trail in the Outer Hebrides , an archipelago off the north-west coast of Scotland. It covers 10 islands (Vatersay, Barra, Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay, North Uist, Berneray, Harris and Lewis) and runs from Vatersay in the south to Stornoway on Lewis in the north.

The islands, also called the Western Isles, are one of the remotest places in Scotland and one of the only places where Scottish Gaelic is still spoken frequently as a first language.

Hebridean Way Map

Getting to and from the Hebridean Way

It is very easy to get to the Outer Hebrides from Glasgow or Edinburgh, however, it takes time. Flying is the fastest option, but with the weather, it is more reliable to go by boat – since flights are cancelled more frequently than ferry crossings.

I took a train from Glasgow to Oban, and from there the 5-hour CalMac ferry to Castlebay on Barra. On the way back, I decided to take the CalMac ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool and from there the bus to Inverness and the train back to Glasgow.

If you follow my route, it’s best to buy the Hopscotch 8 ticket , which includes all 4 ferry rides you need along the Way between Oban and Ullapool.

There are also several other CalMac ferry connections to the mainland along the way, which are particularly useful if you want to hike the Hebridean Way in stages, or plan to spend more time on any of the other isles after completing the hike: Mallaig to Lochboisdale (South Uist), Uig (Skye) to Lochmaddy (North Uist) Uig (Skye) to Tarbert (Harris).

Hooked on island hopping?  The best Scottish Islands to Visit

How long is the Hebridean Way?

The Hebridean Way is currently 156 miles (252 km) long. There are plans to extend the path to the Butt of Lewis, adding another 30 miles or so, but at the moment the trail ends officially at Lews Castle in Stornoway.

How long does it take to walk the Hebridean Way?

You could spend weeks on the Hebridean Way, exploring the islands in great detail and going on and off the trail as you please. However, the minimum you should plan for the whole hike is 10 days – the guidebook I used for the trail uses this as a default.

The book also includes a suggestion for an 8-day itinerary, but unless you are an experienced long-distance hiker, I don’t see how you would be possible to walk 156 miles in 8 days.

Personally, I allowed myself 12 days to complete the Hebridean Way, plus a rest day in the middle. I planned my own itinerary based on the 10 stages described in the guidebook, but you could also use the itinerary suggested on the official Hebridean Way website as a guideline.

In total, I spent 16 days in the Outer Hebrides , including an additional day on Lewis in the end and two days of travelling to and from the islands.

Which way – north or south?

Considering the weather, it is most logical to hike the Hebridean Way from south to north . Firstly, because the wind usually blows in a northerly direction, so you won’t have to fight with many headwinds walking in the same direction.

Secondly, if the sun is out, you want it in your back, rather than your face. This is better for photography and protects your face from sunburn.

That said, I have also met a few hikers who walked the Hebridean Way north to south, and it is absolutely possible.

You might also like: How to plan a hiking holiday in Scotland

How much does it cost to walk the Hebridean Way?

Walking holidays can be super budget-friendly, especially if you carry a tent and do it all self-organised.

Campsites cost between £7 and £10, which includes access to washrooms and freshwater facilities, sometimes even a kitchen. Many campsites also have laundry facilities which are available for a small fee.

I spent around £600 on my two week holiday , which includes additional equipment I bought before the trip, all food, campsite fees and accommodation, trains and ferries etc.

I could have probably saved here and there, for example by wild camping more often and not going to local pubs for celebratory drinks after hard sections – but when I’m on holidays (especially walking holidays) I like to treat myself!

Additional costs not included in this breakdown are my day trip to St Kilda and the rental car I got to spend a day on the Isle of Lewis.

You might also like: The top 10 things to see on the Isle of Lewis in a day

Can I book a walking holiday?

There are a number of tour companies that offer walking holidays in the Outer Hebrides, some cover the whole length of the Hebridean Way, others do it in stages. They offer certainly a lot more comfort than individual hiking with a tent.

They include B&B accommodation, luggage transfers and transfers between accommodation and the trail, but they are also accordingly more expensive and your route is less flexible than if you go independently.

How hard is it to walk the Hebridean Way?

Overall, the Hebridean Way might be long, but the trail is fairly easy to walk  for beginners. The Hebrides are pretty flat and a lot of the trail leads along the coastline or across flat moorland.

The crux lies not necessarily in the elevation you gain, but rather in the terrain, you have to cross. Some parts of the trail lack an actual path, and you have to cut your own way across the moor, the bog or down hillsides, so it will still be physically challenging at times.

Additionally, there is quite a bit of road walking involved – more than I would call pleasant. Walking on the hard tarmac for miles on end can be hard on your body and your mind – prepare accordingly or alternatively, take the bus.

You might also like: 10 invaluable tips for hiking the Hebridean Way

Is the Hebridean Way marked?

In the creation of the Hebridean Way, funding from the EU’s Regional Development Fund was used to improve the infrastructure along the trail. Footbridges were built and waymarkers put up – you can recognise these by the round white disks that carry the Hebridean Way logo.

In general, the Way is very easy to follow as there are plenty of signposts along it. The Way makes use of existing trails wherever possible, but sometimes you are left on your own and simply have to make your own way from post to post.

Apart from higher up in bad weather conditions, it was always easy to see the next post. The only times I had issues were in the hills on Barra (stage 1) and the hillside above Seilebost (stage 8), but even there I managed without having to navigate by map & compass.

However, I did get the sense that moving from south to north, they slowly started running out of 4x4s and logo disks, as there are fewer signposts on Harris and Lewis, than on the southern islands.

In the beginning, there were two disks on each post, roughly corresponding with the direction of the path, but later on, there was often only one disk, either north or south facing. Sometimes the disk was also facing the trail, which made it hard to rely on the posts giving any sense of direction anymore when there was not an actual path.

Additionally, there were signposts indicating distances at prominent points along the trail. These were really helpful in gauging how much further it would be to my day’s endpoint and estimating how well I had progressed throughout the day.

Again on Harris and Lewis, the path creators seemed to have lost interest in making these really helpful and there were much fewer distance markers than in the south. One day, in particular, stood out to me (stage 9) when the distance markers just presented a countdown to Tarbert, rather than telling you the distance to the next useful point (like any of the villages you come past that day).

It’s not the end of the world, but it is a lost opportunity to make the Way more enjoyable.

Is there a Hebridean Way guidebook?

There is a hiking guidebook for the Hebridean Way published by Cicerone. You can get it easily on Amazon or download it to your phone. The book describes the trail in 10 stages with additional options for doing the route in 8 or 14 days. It contains general information about the trail and logistics, offers some listings of infrastructure and accommodation along the way and includes detailed trail descriptions.

Unfortunately, the guidebook is not without faults though. It was written before the official opening of the route in 2017 and does not contain updates of the most recent changes to the route (for example on Scarista beach, or the route leaving Laxay).

Some details, like the colour of the signposts along the Harris Walkway (which is now part of Heb Way), are described inaccurately and the listings of accommodation and cafes/shops on the Way miss obvious highlights (like the Kilbride Cafe or Vigadale House) while mentioning others (like a pub on Eriskay you come past way before open hours).

Furthermore, the distance markers given in the book do not always correspond with the distance markers posts along the route, so that it becomes difficult to gauge which one is correct.

Nevertheless, the book is a valuable source for the trail. It gives information about what terrain to expect, where to turn when waymarkers have fallen over or were damaged by weather or wildlife, and adds plenty of additional information about the trail and the Isles.

Get the Cicerone guidebook HERE !

Walking the Hebridean Way solo as a woman

Maybe the most “shocking” aspect of my trek on the Hebridean Way for most people was that I would do it on my own. A woman walking and camping solo in the middle of nowhere at the edge of Scotland – was that even safe?

The short answer is yes, it is absolutely safe! The Outer Hebrides are a faraway place and the already low crime rate of Scotland is even lower in the Western Isles. I had no reservations about walking the Hebridean Way on my own as a woman and did not feel unsafe at any given moment during my trek.

I met very few walkers along the way, but many cyclists and road trippers, especially when I stayed at hostels or campsites. Many of them I met several times so that I felt like I always had someone there to rely on – who would ask for me if I did not show up.

When I wild camped, I was always entirely on my own and I would not see a soul for hours. I made it a point to tell fellow travellers about my plans, again, so that in case anything happened someone would know about my whereabouts.

I also gave my partner a detailed itinerary and let him know about any changes to my plan. In the tent I was never scared – only once I wondered what that noise was, only to realise that it was the long grass in the dunes scratching against my tent in the wind. Very scary – for 5 seconds.

People are still so worried about women travelling on their own, even more so when it’s an adventure trip like my solo hike on the Hebridean Way. But in fact, I met many other women on the trail, hiking and cycling, who were doing it all by themselves – and every single one of them loved it!

Hebridean Way Trail Descriptions

As mentioned above, I walked the Hebridean Way in 12 stages and walked an average of 13 miles (20.5 km) per day. I kept very closely to the suggested routes from the Cicerone hiking guidebook but slightly changed the sections across Uist as well as my overnight destinations on Harris.

The main reason for this was, that the book suggested three very long consecutive days to cross Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula and North Uist. I knew though, that I would not be able to walk 21-22 miles three days in a row and decided to cover this section in five days instead. On Harris, I adapted the route to work better with potential overnight stops, campsites and hostels along the way.

My 12 stages were:

• Stage 1: Vatersay & Barra, 14 miles / 22km
• Stage 2: Erisaky to Askernish, 13 miles / 21 km + detour to the shop in Daliburgh
• Stage 3: Askernish to Driomor, 13 miles / 21 km
• Stage 4: Driomor to Linacleite, 13 miles / 21 km
• Stage 5: Linacleite to Carinish, 12 miles / 20 km
• Stage 6: Carinish to Lochmaddy, 12 miles / 20 km
• Stage 7: Lochmaddy to Berneray, 10 miles / 17 km
• Stage 8: Leverburgh to Seilebost, 14 miles / 22 km
• Stage 9: Seilebost to Drinishader, 9 miles / 15 km
• Stage 10: Drinishader to Bowglass, 15 miles / 24 km
• Stage 11: Bowglass to Laxay, 15 miles / 24 km
• Stage 12: Laxay to Stornoway, 14 miles / 22 km

At the end of each stage, it was easy to find accommodation, either by wild camping, pitching at a campsite or in a hostel. The only place where I booked a B&B was Bowglass since there were no campsites/hostels in the area and the rocky and hilly landscape of Harris is not the most suitable for wild camping.

Check out my detailed  12-day Hebridean Way route !

Hebridean Way Accommodation

Since I was carrying my tent with me, I made use of campsites or wild camped wherever I could. At most endpoints of the stages described above, you will be able to find B&B or hotel accommodation either immediately on the trail or not too far away.

If your accommodation is a few miles off the trail, you might want to take the bus or arrange transfers with your hosts/taxis, since adding a couple of miles in the morning and the evening can really wear you down.

If you follow the guidebook’s 10-day itinerary, you will be able to do the Hebridean Way entirely without camping, but since that requires several very long days and accommodation might be limited (especially during high season) I highly recommend bringing a tent.

By camping, you are a lot more flexible and independent and you can change your plans at the very last minute without running into cancellation fees. With long-distance hiking, you never know what the trail throws at you, or which opportunities arrive.

I loved the flexibility I had on my trek thanks to my tent! Plus, it saved me money!

You might also like: Budget-friendly accommodation on the Hebridean Way for hikers

Vegan food on the Hebridean Way

Unlike the rest of Scotland, the Outer Hebrides is not particularly vegan-friendly. The local food is all about seafood, meat and dairy, and most cafes or restaurants I came across did not have vegan options upon request.

That said, there were a few welcome exceptions and very accommodating chefs along the way. I found it very easy to walk the Hebridean Way as a vegan and found many other options for food supplies.

Since I knew it would be tricky to get vegan-friendly cooked meals on the Isles (if there was even the option of eating out), I brought a lot of food with me.

I carried a week’s worth of porridge with dried fruit, seeds and nuts through it, which I stocked up with oats in Leverburgh. I mixed this with coconut milk powder so that I could prepare it with water without losing the creaminess of a milky porridge.

Local shops, especially the Co-ops, always have a “free from” section. I had no issues whatsoever finding vegan-friendly bread, hummus and Trek bars or other vegan-friendly sweeties in any shop. Fresh, packaging-free fruit and veg were always available. I usually carried lunch and snacks for 2 days before restocking at the next shop.

Be aware that most shops and restaurants are closed on Sundays, or have very limited open hours, which means you should stock up before then.

There are shops in Castlebay (Co-op), Dalabrog (Co-op), Lovats, Creagorry (Co-op), Lochmaddy, Berneray, Leverburgh, Tarbert and Stornoway (Co-op, Tesco).

I also carried a week’s worth of trekking dinners with me and sent myself another week’s worth to my half-way point on Berneray to re-stock. That meant, I only had to worry about buying lunches on the Isles.

Snacks & drinks

I also brought a small stash of emergency chocolates as well as instant coffee and a few tea bags. In retrospect, I think I could have cut the coffee, as I only had it a few times, and the instant stuff is not satisfying either way.

As I said, the local menu primarily consists of seafood and meat, and I found that many vegetarian options contain egg or dairy. However, there are a few things you can usually order, like beans on toast in cafes or cheese-less pizza in hotel restaurants.

Here are some of my favourite eateries from the Hebridean Way:

• Kilbride Cafe on South Uist,  Stage 2
• Langass Lodge on North Uist, Stage 6
• Berneray Bistro & Shop on Berneray, Stage 7
• Lacklee Community Centre Cafe on Harris, Stage 9
• Tarbert Community Centre Cafe on Harris, Stage 10

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And what about water?

I had brought my water filter to be able to fill up my water supplies from local streams without hesitation, but since it had been incredibly warm and dry for months before my trip, there was not much running water I could access.

Instead, I filled my water supply on campsites and at shops along the Way. I did not use my water filter until I reached Harris, and even there it was more to try it, rather than because I needed it.

I had a water system with me which allowed me to carry 4 litres of water, but I never had more than 2.5 L on my back – enough to carry if you ask me. When I could not find a shop or cafe, I also asked locals who were out in their gardens, if it was possible to fill up my water and was never turned away.

Hebridean Way Packing List

When it comes to packing for long-distance hiking I stick to me well-tested and constantly optimised packing list. Here is a quick overview of what I packed:

For more detail, concrete product recommendations and the contents of my toiletry & first aid kit, consider my full long-distance packing list !

Camping 65L + 10L hiking backpack 1-2 person tent (Vaude Hogen SUL 1-2P) S leeping system (2-season sleeping bag & a self-inflatable mat by Vaude)

Water & Cooking 1L bottle of water 3L drinking system camping stove 1 gas canister + matches Food & snacks (breakfast & dinner – 1 week; lunch – 2 days)

Clothes Pair of sturdy  hiking boots 3 tops (2 hiking, 1 base layer) 2 bottoms (1 hiking, 1 base layer) 1 fleece cardigan 1 light-weight jacket waterproofs (jacket and trousers) 1 bathing suit + travel towel 2  buffs 5x underwear + 2 sport bras 4 pairs of socks (2 hiking, 1 normal, 1 sleeping) Light-weight trainers

Miscellaneous Toiletries First aid kit Sun lotion Sunglasses Small, sharp knife Midge spray & midge net Toilet paper + matches Small cup Whisky flask

Other Hebridean Way  guidebook  + pen Outer Hebrides maps a book for reading Camera + charger + battery pack

I tried to reduce my pack as much as I could. Every gram counted, especially since I was carrying supplies for a week and a considerable amount of maps. I left my hiking poles at home, and had only one or two occasions where I wished I would have had them on the trail – I’d say it was worth it.

I also reduced my cooking gear down to one gas canister, since it would have been easy enough to refill on the Isles. It turns out, I didn’t even finish the one!

I took out my heavy woollen hat and replaced it with a second light-weight buff for colder days. I didn’t actually need it for my head but used it as a pillow at night (stuffed with my warm jacket and bathing suit for optimal comfort).

I could have saved some more weight, by leaving my book or my swimsuit, but both came in handy, and I was happy I had them!

My solo adventure on the Hebridean Way was a fantastic experience and I am certain that the Hebridean Way will become a very popular long-distance trail in Scotland over time.

It might be a little harder to organise everything in lack of the kind of infrastructure you would find along the West Highland Way, but the unique scenery and the feeling of being away from it all are absolutely worth the effort!

If you have any more questions about hiking the Hebridean Way – alone, with a friend or in a group, let me know in the comments!

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68 thoughts on “ The Complete Hebridean Way Hiking Guide ”

Hi Kathi, thanks for writing this, your kit list is particularly helpful. I’m planning my trip in July next year, I’m allowing 3+ weeks as I want to explore areas off trail and camp for several days in certain areas. I’m also planning to turn around at Luskentyre and head back to Castlebay- this gives me an easier return journey to Oban and judging by the map it looks like its mostly inland road walking all the way to Stornoway after Luskentyre, what do you think of this idea?

Hi Graham, I’m glad my guide is helpful! To be honest I loved hiking across to the east side of Harris and the bit north of Tarbert was one of my favourite parts… you could always keep walking until there and then get the bus from the halfway up Loch Shiphoirt back to Leverburgh. I hope this helps ☺️

Wow, such an adventure. We are thinking doing it on may. But I would love your advise as we have a 2 years old baby. Did you see people doing it with a baby ?

Thanks a lot, Sophie

Oh that sounds like an adventure! The things I’d keep in mind is that several of the stages are very long (30km+ between villages with accommodation options), which is why o wild camped along the way to break it up into shorter sections. I don’t know what this would look like with a toddler, especially in terms of carrying equipment and also the baby – I imagine a shorter trial trip would gove you the chance to test it. I didn’t see anyone with kids hiking the path when I did it, sorry!

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Wow… I had read many blogs about hikes mostly about the pembrokeshire coast path (because I’m going there soon) but also others. And I never had read such an amazing post. I love all the details and just wanted to say thank you very much. You inspired me today!!!

I’m so glad to hear this – thanks for your kind feedback! Maybe you’ll hike the Heb Way too one day 🙂 Enjoy the Pembrokeshire coast path!

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Howdie Kathi! i am very happy i had the chance to jump in your blog. it is undoubtely one of the best overview of hiking the Hebridean Way. Honestly speaking, i neither wasn’t aware of this trail 🙂 i was surfing the net to get infos about the Clachan Mhanais trail in Lewis (‘The ghost trail that doesn’t exist’ from Bob McFarlane’s book, have you ever heard about it?) but immediately you GOT MY ATTENTION in a such inspirational way. I will arrive in Edimburgh in a few days and i will move immediately to Barra for starting the trekking. other than that, i would really congratulate with you for the usefulness of your blog, it is really well done and super beneficial. Hope to see you somewhere around in the wilderness. keep exploring! cheers from Italy

What if I wonderful blog! I would like to do part of the walking trail in August but can the midges be a problem? Also there doesn’t seem to be much space in the accommodation …Do you know a good website that lists all the cheap places? Do you think it might be hard now that we are in July to find space for August?Thank you so much, Myriam.

Hi Myriam, with midges, it really depends on the conditions leading up to your trip and also on the day. I only had one midgy night on Lewis, everywhere else was fine. Wind and sunshine keeps them at bay, and it was a very hot summer the year I hiked the Heb Way, so there was generally fewer of them around. Having spray and a head net is a good idea and won’t add too much weight to your pack. In terms of accommodation, you might find that it’s harder to come by, especially because hostels, which are often the cheapest option, aren’t able to offer shared accommodations right now… You might find that hotels and B&Bs are already full because of reduced capacity. My recommendation would be to camp unless you’re flexible with regards to dates and budget. You can find accommodations on the Heb Way website as well as Outer Hebrides tourism board website, or simply on Google Maps. I recently did some research for a client who plans to walk the way next year. If you’re keen, I can share that with you for a small fee? Email me at [email protected] if you’re interested.

Hi Kathi, your post is really helpful, I’ve booked to do a slightly shorter version of the walk Vatersay to Tarbert very soon. After doing the west highland way with a tent I’ve decided to stay in B&Bs and hostels this time. Accommodation was few and far between so I’ve got one epic day (Erisky – Benbecula 30 miles) where I’ll need to get a bus part of the way unfortunately. Is there a portion between these two you would suggest taking the bus? Did you take the bus at all and did you find it simple to negotiate? Thank you and I cant wait for my holiday.

Hi Lydia, if I had to skip a section, I’d jump on the bus from Dalabrog to Howmore. That way you still experience the coastal walk along the Machair and also the beautiful stretch of moorland walking in the north of South Uist. I camped most of the way, so I was a lot more flexible in terms of where I could stop for the night. I hitch-hiked twice, but never jumped on the bus. They aren’t super frequent, so definitely check the council website for bus schedules. If you need any more help, I’d be delighted to help you with your hiking itinerary – just check out my consultation page here: https://watchmesee.com/watch-me-see-scotland-travel-consultation/ Cheers, Kathi

Hi, I’m looking to do the Heb Way shortly, just one quick question that I hope you can help with! Do you know where I could leave my car in Oban for two weeks?!

Oh, I don’t know, sorry – maybe there is a free car park somewhere? The council website usually has info on car parks and parking areas!

Dear Emma, I am planning to hike the Heb way next year in April (along with my dog) and was also wondering what is a convenient place to park the car. I will arrive from the Netherlands by boat in Newcastle and was thinking of driving towards Glasgow or one of the islands. maybe you have a good e tip? If this turns out to be tricky, I am also considering doing the whole trip by public transport.

Hi Robert, I’d probably find a suitable parking spot somewhere in Glasgow – if you park it in Oban you have to get back there on your way back at the and from Ullapool, which is most likely to take you via Glasgow anyways. I don’t have a concrete tip for a car park, but I know I’d want it to be a secure car park with CCTV if I was away from my car that long. Have a fab time on the Heb Way!

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Hi Kathi, I lived and taught in Stornaway just over 10 years ago and left my heart there. I am retiring from teaching this summer and, to mark this milestone, I am returning to the Hebrides to hike the trail. I’m planning to go 2nd/3rd week in September. I wanted to thank you so much for the sense of the way which you describe and your wonderfully helpful tips. I’ve got the Cicerone guide and plan to walk in 10 days but spend extra days in Stornoway catching up with friends. I’m planning to carry everything and wild camp and was wondering did you plan your dried meals and eating to achieve a specific amount of calories each day? Majella

Hi Majella, I’m so excited for you. It’s a beautiful trail! To be honest, no – I didn’t plan my meals with calories in mind. That said, I bought dried meals for hikers, so they had a decent calory counts and I tended to stock up on hummus every two days – the Coop supermarkets have it in small tubs. And I brought loads of protein bars with high calory count, so I guess I managed to up my intake without thinking about it too much. Hope this helps!

This was the most helpful overview of the hike that I have found thus far. It has convinced me to plan to solo-hike the entire 158 mile trek this summer, if international travel does not continue to be an issue with COVID.

Glad to hear 🙂 It’s a fantastic walk and perfect for solo walkers in my opinion, because you have a feeling of remoteness, but are never too far from a village or a road. Enjoy the walk!

Best site for HB. Saw yours on google then checked others. When we fly again we will contact you.

Thank you, Richard – really appreciate it! I hope you can fly over and hike the Heb Way soon!

Hi again Kathi 🙂 I am wondering if you had any tips on learning basic level navigation skills? Never used OS maps or a compass before and feel a bit daunted at the thought. thanks Lindsey

Hi Lindsay, while there are many resources online, I found it easier to have someone explain it to me in person and then practice it in the field. I did the Navigation Essentials course with Girls on Hills and it was amazing: https://www.girlsonhills.com/what-we-offer I highly recommend that course if you want to learn the basics!

If you’re looking for advice on route planning with maps, I have put together some tips here: https://watchmesee.com/blog/walking-holidays-in-scotland/ (see Step 2).

Hope this helps!

Happy hiking! Kathi

Thank you Kathi, I read all you have to share on the Heb Way and feel grateful to have found your accounts as I am heading to Scotland end of May and for the first time planning to do a walking trip. I will head to Edinburgh first and spend time reconnecting with family (23 yrs since last been there). I was born there and then emigrated with my family to Australia. Anyway – after Edinburgh I want to get a train to Mallaig then across to the Knoydart Peninsula – Inverie / where then I would like to hike Kinloch Hourn – from there I would like to then get across to the Outer Hebrides (I was thinking of Isle of Skye but has been mentioned it is so over packed with tourists in the high season so thought to leave that to another trip ) and then take a couple of weeks to walk the Heb Way. I don’t know if I am being too adventurous – I am 52 years old – but a young 52 fit and healthy. I plan to wild camp, stay in a bothy or two and also hostel and BnB. I would prefer to not have to pre-book everything as if I decide to stay longer in one place don’t want to feel pressured or lose deposits etc…but also aware that it will be early to mid June so not sure. At least I will have a tent! From there it will likely be across to Ullapool – although I would also love to go Mull and Iona as well – not sure about the logistics of that part. Eventually will be heading to Somerset and across to Wales to the Gower region for more fun and walking. Now I leave Australia on the 21May and am booked to fly home on the 5 July. I am sensing I have plenty of time – do you think I am being overambitious? Thanks again Lindsey

Hi Lindsey, thanks for your questions!

I think it this should all work out in 6.5 weeks! Not sure how much time you are spending in Wales of course, but if you plan around 1 week for Edinburgh 1-1.5 weeks for Knoydart and Mull (incl. travel days as trains and ferries will take up some time), 2-2.5 weeks for the Outer Hebrides, that still gives you enough time to spend in Wales!

I’ve never hiked in Knoydart, but as far as I know, it is important to be able to navigate with map & compass there because it is very remote & there are not always clear trails. From Kinloch Hourn, I’d say, hike back to Inverie and make your way via ferries & boats from Mallaig to Oban.

From Oban, you can take the ferry to Mull to spend time there and visit nearby islands; and then you can go from Oban to Barra to start the Hebridean Way. Then Ullapool to Inverness to Edinburgh or Glasgow by public transport.

In terms of booking ahead of time: I recommend bookings trains and longer bus journeys (i.e. Ullapool-Inverness) ahead of time. I did not book the bus from Ullapool to Inverness and almost did not make it on, because it was fully booked. Luckily someone didn’t show up and I could have their seat. For accommodation, definitely book ahead what you can (Edinburgh, potential nights in Mallaig, Inverness, Oban etc). but for hiking trails, if you are happy to camp and have your tent with you, it shouldn’t be necessary. When I hiked the Heb Way, I booked a few things ahead – my first night in the hostel, a night on Harris at a B&B and 2 nights in Stornoway at the end of the walk. I found that very useful!

Have a fab time planning your trip!

Hi Kathi, Thanks for your great report about the hebridean way. Going to walk it next summer. One question. As we’d fly directly into Barra, it’s going to get hard to bring our own fuel for the camping stove (primus gas stove, similliar to the one you’re using). Do you happen to know if there was a store in Castlebay where we could buy gas cartridges? Kindest regards, Axel

Hi Axel, there is a Co-op supermarket as well as a well-stocked independent village shop and I’d imagine that either one of them has fuel for a camping stove! Have a fantastic hike in the Hebrides – would love to hear how it went! 🙂 All the best, Kathi

I’m so happy I came across your post! I’d been feeling the ‘lure of the wild’ and wanting to spend some time by myself in the Scottish highlands but wasn’t sure where to start! I’d also considered cycling the Hebridean way and walking it seems like a perfect combination! Whilst not a regular hiker I’ve done lots here and there and am also very comfortable with camping in campsites. However I’ve never hiked or camped solo, not have I wild camped before. Are there any short wild camping routes you could recommend to ‘break me in’ as it were. And anything you’d recommend me reading/looking into before heading out for the first time?

I saw your link to the hiking retreat in October which sounds great, however I find myself with time on my hands in September and so am keen to start ASAP!

Thanks again for some fantastic posts, you’ve really given me the confidence/ kick I needed to actually go out and do it rather than just fantasise/ get caught up in the worries of solo female long distance hiking! Thank you! Cheers Sarah

Hi Sarah, thanks a lot for your comment and kind words! Before the Heb Way I only solo hike + wild camped once – I did the West Island Way on Bute and it was a wonderful experience. I still very much learnt the ropes as I was going on the Hebrides. Arran is also a great place to get to for a quick hiking trip and wild-camp test; and so are the Arrochar Alps (as long as you respect the camping restrictions there during the summer – national park bylaws). Hope you can join one of my future retreats! Have a great time 🙂

Hi ! Really great post and very usefull 🙂 I was wondering if I’m going to meet a lot of sheep dogs or other animals which could be annoying while walking on september ?

Thank you so much !

Hi Matt, I walked the way in July, so can only base my experience on that time of the year. I had no annoying or distressing animal encounters on the way – apart from flies and midges 😉 The way hardly crosses any enclosed farmland, but in many areas sheep roam freely, so you might see some. I did not come across any sheep dogs! I hope you have a great hike!

Myself and my OH are going to the Western Isles in August, we’re super excited about it and I’ve really enjoyed reading your experience.

Out of curiosity, how did you arrange sending your second half of your good supplies out?

Hi Ross, I pretty much just asked the hostel & B&B if I could send myself a parcel. Then sent it by regular mail and they kept it for me until I arrived! I’d imagine most accommodation owners would be happy to help 🙂 Have a fantastic trip!!

Hi Kathi Great account of the trip.Well done indeed. WE’re thinking of the first two weeks in October…..Do you think rain would make homeports difficult / impossible? cheers Patrick

I think the weather is always unpredictable, but it will certainly be colder in October, especially if you camp! It’s probably a good idea to alternate camping with hostels or B&Bs so you don’t have to stay out if the weather turns. Have a great hike!!

Is the trail walkable with dog? I walk with tend, so no need for accomodation. But how is the fence situation? Lot’s of fences to climb? Thanks in advance.

Hi Beatrix, I don’t have any experience personally of walking with a dog, so I don’t know what would make the walk not dog-friendly. There are not really fences to climb, mostly there are gates. There is a bit of road walking, so making sure to have the dog on a lead and safe from traffic is important. There are many sheep on the islands as well as birds, so your dog needs to be well behaved. Also, make sure you comply with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code for dog walking: https://www.outdooraccess-scotland.scot/practical-guide-all/dog-walking Hope this helps!

Thanks for the answer. No (barbed) wire fences is what I wanted to hear. For the rest, behaviour and lead, I am already experienced in scotland. Sounds like this will be my next trail when I make it to get more then 2 weeks holidays. Time will be the biggest problem.

Yeah, no barbed wire as far as I can remember! I hope you have a great trip 🙂 I’d love to hear from you afterwards and see how it went! Stay in touch!

Well, I alredy did the JoG Trail this year, and the Hebridian Way is on my plan for next year. You know, when you come back from a Trail, one needs to find the next challenge to fill the empty part (-:

Ha ha you speak my truth! I always have another trail to look forward to 🙂 Enjoy the Heb Way when the time comes!!

Hi Kathi, again me. It seems that the only time I can get more then 2 weeks holidays is in July/August. Guess that this may be the worst midget time. As you did the trail in July, what is your experience? I will walk with my dog, so he might get all the midgets in his fur and into the tend. Am I right?

Hi Beatrix! I barely had any midges to be honest – only the last night camping on Lewis because I was just by a small loch. It’s important to note though that I hiked the Heb Way in July after a very hot summer – 7 weeks of 25+ degrees – so there were few midges all over the country; horseflies/cleggs were much worse that year because they don’t mind the heat like midges.

Midges only really come out in the morning and evening, when it’s not too hot and not too windy. You can avoid the worst by not camping near standing water, camping somewhere a bit more exposed (within reason) so that you get a breeze; beaches can be great for that.

Get a midge net, midge spray like Smidge and maybe let your dog sleep inside the tent, so he doesn’t get bothered by them. I don’t have a dog, so I don’t know whether midges go after them…

I don’t think midges should hold you back from hiking in Scotland as they are not out all the time and maybe you’re lucky and it’s another hot, dry summer 🙂 Have a great time prepping your hike!

Hu, thank you so much for your tips! I want to do the Hebridean Way this summer, but as an unexperienced hiker, I only have ca 10 days to complete the walk. Which sections were your favorite ones? Which would you rather have skipped (hard question, I know)? Thank you so much in advance!!

Hi Lina! Hm, that is difficult indeed! My favourite bits were Barra on day 1, my days on Uist on the Machair Way and across the moor to Our Lade of the Isles, and the days I spent on Harris (until I got to the B&B). I wasn’t a huge fan of crossing Benbecula because there was a lot of road walking and I had bad weather on North Uist, so I didn’t find it too exciting. The last two days on Lewis were also not mind-blowing, especially the 9 miles of road walking at the end… Hope this helps and you have a great time on the Hebridean Way! 🙂

Hi There, Planning to walk the “way” in summer this year. All accommodation and transport to Barra booked but we are in an age group who would benefit from luggage transfer. I noted your earlier comment about B&Bs. We are mostly staying at hotels for ease of evening meals etc. Do you think the various taxi services are reliable and would be up for a moving the luggage? For a fee obviously, as they do on some of the other Scottish long distance routes. We’ve completed 3 so far but looking forward to this one the most.

Hi James, good for you – it’s a fantastic walk! I’m not sure – you would certainly have to get in touch with at least 3 taxi companies as they are unlikely to operate across ferries. If there’s a few of you it might not even be so expensive, but it might still be a slightly unusual request. That said as the Hebridean Way grows in popularity, I think taxi companies would lose out on a great opportunity if they turn you away! Another option of course would be to hike the walk in day sections and at the end of each day get a taxi or bus back to accommodation where you stay for a few nights. I met a man on the trail last summer who hiked the sections from South Uist to Berneray and he stayed at hotels in Lochboisdale and Lochmaddy – every day at the end he would return to these for the night! He didn’t have to worry about his luggage whatsoever 🙂 I hope this helps! Kathi

Hi Kathi, thank you for all this. My husband and I plan to walk/bus this this summer once he retires. He’s recently had an operation, so we are interested in the idea of carrying a small rucksack each and arranging baggage transfer. How does that work? Would we need to contact individual b and b’s to see if they would help? thank you

Hi Lee, as far as I know there is no baggage transfer service along the Heb Way like you would get at the West Highland Way. I could imagine though that you might be able to arrange individual transfers with B&Bs! People are very helpful! Or you could have a home base and get to the beginning or end point of sections by public transport each day. I met a man on the trail who did that! He was based in Lochboisdale for a few days and then in Lochmaddy and took the bus to and from the hotels! He only hiked the southern part of the trail but it imagine you could achieve the same by basing yourself in Leverburgh, Tarbert and Stornoway for the northern section. Maybe easier to organise! Hope this helps in planning your trip 🙂

Hi, nice account, found via Twitter. I walked the trail in May, my journal is at oldieoutdoors.com Whether the Polly is open depends on what time you go past it! I found it completely straightforward buying ferry tickets on the boats, not sure why you’d need some fancy advance ticket -? Your list of the most important discrepancies in the Cicerone book is spot on, all those fooled me! 😉 I wasn’t that lucky with the weather but it’s a great walk, pleased to see your detailed account, all good wishes A

Heya Andrew, thanks for your comment – I’ll go check out your journal! It’s always nice to see/hear/read someone else’s experience on this trail. I’m a planner, so I preferred having my tickets booked and organised in advance – it’s not necessary and I think it’s the same price, but I somehow felt more organised that way. It’s such a great walk – an experience of a lifetime! Cheers, Kathi

Great account of your trip! What month did you hike it in? Thanks so much! I’m going to get the guidebook & start planning !!!

I walked in the last two weeks of July 2018! I’m so happy I could inspire you to walk it too – let me know how you get on and if you plan to document your hike in any way publicly (like an Instagram I can follow)! x

Absolutely inspiring account of your trip! You write so clearly and full of wonderful details. I am a little overwhelmed by the length of the trail but I am encouraged by your advice. First class post on what to expect and what to do and bring. ~ Alison

Hi Alison, thanks for your comment and I’m so glad you enjoyed the post! The good thing about the Heb Way is, that’s it’s very easy to walk it in stages. It meets the main road frequently and from there you can just catch the bus. I recommend the section across Harris – all from Leverburgh to Achnamore (on Lewis)!

What a great trail! Thank you, Kathi, for the detailed description! I was thinking about hiking the islands, but back two years ago when I was planning my Scottish adventure, there wasn’t enough info on it. I want to see the Hebrideans and maybe I could go next year!

Happy hiking, Ioanna A Woman Afoot

I feel you! I felt quite underprepared, despite the guidebook – I wanted more personal experience reports, but could not find much. I hope this will help others like you too 🙂 It’s a fantastic walk with its own challenges, but so worth the effort! I hope you get to do it and enjoy it as much as me!!

Nice trip to read about- thank you!! I’m about to do the same path on my own – SO looking forward to wild camping again! Thanks for the tips – I didn’t know about the ‘4 ferry’ ticket!

Hi Helen, amazing – you’ll love it, have an amazing time! The ferry ticket is really handy – just make sure you keep the individual tickets dry during your walk! 🙂

This looks like such a fantastic trek! I’ve always wanted to visit the Hebrides, and this looks like the absolute perfect way to explore them. Thank you for this extremely thorough and helpful guide!

It was my first time there and I’m so happy I decided to walk rather than road trip! I felt really in touch with the landscape – quite at its mercy to be honest 😀 I hope you get to go one day!

What a detailed guide to hebridean way walking tour.i would luv to try something like this

Your posts always inspire me to get outdoors more as wild camping is my absolute favourite! You capture Scotland’s natural beauty so well and make me so shameful I’ve not seen more of my home country!

I think it’s so important to go outdoors and spend time in nature – it always makes me appreciate my life more!

Wow! What a detailed post. I definitely want to do more hiking in Scotland. Love it up there.

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The Outer Hebrides

The Outer Hebrides stretch for 130 miles and look out on their western side to the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on the very edge of Europe, Scotland’s Outer Hebrides offer a striking mix of landscapes. Heather-backed mountains overlook windswept golden sands, with dense areas of peat bog in between. Of the two hundred plus islands that make up the archipelago, only a handful are actually inhabited.

Lewis and Harris form the northernmost island in the Outer Hebrides. Though they are actually part of the same land mass, they are thought of as different islands and each has its own distinctive culture, traditions and heritage.

Lewis in the north is the largest island in the group and its main town of Stornoway is a busy centre of island life. Its natural harbour is a thriving fishing port.  Harris is home to the world-famous Harris Tweed, which must be made on the islands to carry the name. Across a narrow isthmus from the more mountainous North Harris lies South Harris, with its wide beaches of golden sand trimming the Atlantic. 

Find out more about Lewis, Harris and Stornoway

Further south still sit a string of small, flatter islands including North Uist , Benbecula , South Uist and Barra . Here stunning, breezy beaches are mostly bordered by a lower range of hills to the east. Uniquely, one of the beaches on Barra also doubles as a landing strip for flights from the mainland. It’s considered to be the only beach runway in the world to handle scheduled airline services.

Lying west offshore into the Atlantic, the remarkable deserted island of St Kilda is a dual World Heritage Site and a major attraction thanks to its amazing birdlife and fascinating history. The island can only be reached by day boat, which is subject to weather conditions and the permission of its owners, the National Trust for Scotland. 

The Outer Hebrides remain a heartland of Gaelic culture , with the language spoken by over half of the islanders. The Celtic roots of the islands have permeated through to the arts created in this place, with traditional crafts and Celtic music still very much at the heart of Outer Hebridean culture.

The famous Calanais Standing Stone s on the Isle of Lewis are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the islands’ rich historical legacy. Dun Carloway , which is also on Lewis, is an Iron Age broch that stands at nearly seven metres tall and is around 2,000 years old.

Religion has long played an important role on these islands, with churches and church ruins dotted across the landscapes.

The landscapes of the Outer Hebrides makes it ideal for walking and cycling while the superb Atlantic beaches draw surfers from around the globe. Fishing for salmon and trout, as well as sea angling, is also highly popular. The clear Hebridean waters produce some of the best seafood in the UK. 

Golden eagles, white-tailed eagles and corncrakes are just some of the amazing birdlife that you might spot from these islands, which are considered to be amongst the best bird-watching locations in Europe.

There are an estimated 4,000 red deer living on Lewis and Harris, so your chances of spotting one is pretty high, and the Outer Hebrides is also considered to be one of the best places in Europe to spot the European otter . Off the coast the marine life is pretty spectacular too, with porpoises, orca whales, minke whales and basking sharks all swimming off shore.

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• Outer Hebrides: A Guide To The Lesser Known Islands On Scotland’s Coast

26 Jun 2023

The Outer Hebrides is an island chain situated on the west coast of mainland Scotland. The destination’s diverse flora and fauna attract tourists from around the world. The Hebrides have their own unique way of life, quite different from the one in the cities and towns. The islands are emblematic of peace and tranquillity.

About Outer Hebrides

Image Source The Outer Hebrides islands consists of Lewis and Harris, Berneray, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, Barra, and Vatersay. The place has got everything for the tourists to enjoy and have an amazing and relaxing time. The views that the place offers is breathtaking. You can enjoy the endless beaches if you want to catch some waves.

Best Time To Visit Outer Hebrides : The mild climate is the main highlight of the Outer Hebrides weather . The place receives extreme rainfall and wind most of the time. It is very rare to feel chilly around here. The time towards the end of April to the far end of June would be the best time to visit the Outer Hebrides. During the month of June, the days are longer, making it easy for travelers in pursuit of watching wildlife. The months July and August welcome the onset of strikingly beautiful flowers along the grasslands, known as the machair. A summertime visit would really satiate the art lover in you as you get a chance to participate in many outdoor events like the Gaelic singing festivals.

Where To Stay Around Outer Hebrides : There are a lot of accommodation options available for all kinds of travelers whatever their need is. The Rodel Hotel at Harris is a good choice. The Anchorage Restaurant at Leverburgh on Harris will be an experience for sure. If seafood is your preference, you can be guaranteed on getting tasty lobsters and other such sea products. The Caberfeidh Hotel at Stornoway might be just what you needed. It is quite close to Stornoway airport and so you can’t miss the place. You can also make a stop at the Amhuinnsuidhe Castle . There are many such spots that are perfect for a day or for more than two days. The hotels around here are not that pricey. The stay would be apt for both solo travelers and for those who come in groups.

9 Places To Visit Near Outer Hebrides

Tourists can witness incredible beaches, ancient history and a lot more while taking a stroll around the island. The deep wildlife reserves are a sight to behold. The Outer Hebrides has so much for you to see. There is magic everywhere you look at nature’s finest:

1. The Callanish Standing Stones

Image Source

If you are familiar with the Stonehenge, you will definitely love the Standing Stones. This 5000-year-old masterpiece is a sight to behold. The structure is set in the backdrop of the hills of Great Bernera. The exact reason for its construction is still unknown but, there are many stories that are immersed in Christianity. According to certain folklores, the Standing Stones were once giants who refused to be converted into Christianity.

Must Read: Scottish Highland Railways: 12 Most Breathtaking Train Rides Of Scotland!

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2. Kisimul Castle

This is a medieval castle located on Barra. The castle is built on the rocky isle off the coast of Barra. The only way that one could reach the castle is by a boat. Surely, you might take the chance to visit this epic structure. It is a sight that you cannot miss for sure. The 15th-century castle located on an island is one of the most famous outer Hebrides points of interest . So, do not forget to make a visit here.

3. St. Clements Church

If you look at this church, rest assured you will be awed and quite surprised and shocked, maybe. This church was built in the 1520s and it is amazing how well the church is preserved even now. It is a sad fact not many are aware of this beautiful piece of architecture.

Suggested Read: 10 Festivals In Scotland To Witness For An Exotic Dip In The Scottish Culture

4. The Blackhouse

This is a lovely location where you could just have a relaxing time. You could get a unique island life at Arnold’s The Blackhouse. You get a chance to stay inside thatched, fully furnished and traditional houses. Make sure to stop by here on your trip to Scotland . Even if you are an atheist, you must visit this place located in Outer Hebrides in Scotland for its sheer beauty. With its undulating grasslands and infinite skies, the place looks absolutely heavenly.

5. Carloway Broch

A broch is technically an iron structure that is used to defend. Carloway Broch is preserved so well here. You could get a taste of the historic life of the past lives that lived so long ago. It is said that the brochures here date back to 2000 years. That is some preserving technique and also the structure that was able to withstand the pressures of time and humans.

Suggested Read: Shopping In Scotland: Get Off The High Street To Find The Hidden Treasures!

6. Luskentyre

Luskentyre sands are an unbelievable vast expanse of white sand that also offer beautiful views. It is just a superb walk anybody can enjoy, to be honest. The isle Taransay is just across the waters. The place is utterly unblemished and intact which adds to the charm to Luskentyre. It is one of those magical places in the world that just feeds your soul. Since such places are not plenty, you should definitely check this one out.

7. Digby Chick

You definitely need to visit this small restaurant in Stornoway. If you love bistro food, this restaurant serves just that. They have this slow-roast pork belly and roast vegetable Panini that is mouth-wateringly delicious. Digby Chick becomes this gourmet restaurant by evening. If you want to grab food that tastes like heaven, Digby Chick is the name that you have to keep in mind.

Suggested Read: 10 Hidden Beaches In Scotland To Spend The Most Magical Vacation Ever!

8. Butt Of Lewis

This is the northern tip of the Hebrides. You will love this place if you want to let the wind in your hair. The imposing lighthouse here is a sight to take in. This is so far away from habitation and if you need some alone time, there is nothing better than this place. Between you and the mighty Atlantic, you will be on your own.

9. The Golden Road

This is a single track road that leads to the end of South of Isles. The scenery along the road is just breathtaking. The scenery is sometimes regarded as the lunar landscapes. If you are not sure, just try this path. The sight when the sun hits the rock is just too pure. Driving on this road is an experience like never before. A long drive on this road is a must.

Suggested Read: 13 Hotels In Scotland That Let You Experience Scottish Hospitality At Its Best

How To Reach Outer Hebrides

When you hear the name ‘Outer Hebrides’ for the first time, you might think that the place is somewhere far, far away. Far away from the entire world and that it is impossible to reach the place. That is a misconception. Nowadays, it is quite easy to reach the Outer Hebrides, much easier than in the past or old times. Many of the flights offer direct services to the exact destination. You can fly in from Glasgow, Manchester, Edinburgh, and Aberdeen. The flights land at the only beach airport in the world- which is on the Isle of Barra. You can also make use of the ferry services offered by the Western Isles Ferry and the Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac).

Outer Hebrides Map

Further Read: 10 Exciting Things To Do In Scotland When You Are Not Playing Golf

England is immersed in beauty but many are unaware and it is really depressing that the wonders of Scotland are often missed by many. The Outer Hebrides is easily accessible. There’s no reason why you shouldn’t visit this destination on your trip to Scotland . It is time to get rid of the tried and tried destinations like London or New York. The Outer Hebrides is vying for your attention!

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