georgetown house tour tickets

Georgetown House Tour

The georgetown house tour is an historic event organized by st. john's episcopal church georgetown. the 2014 event will feature 8-10 of georgetown's most beautiful homes and their impressive gardens..

We are thrilled to announce that the 91st Georgetown House Tour will take place on Saturday, April 20, 2024, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Early-bird tickets are available now until midnight the night before the tour.  Tickets purchased in advance online are $60 each, and tickets purchased the day of the tour are $65.

Since 1931, St. John’s Episcopal Church has organized and hosted the Georgetown House Tour to raise funds for ministry and outreach. From day one, the House Tour has been an important part of enabling the mission of St John’s in the greater Georgetown community.

Each year the Georgetown House Tour features a number of Georgetown’s most beautiful homes–learn about the 2022 tour from ABC 7 (WJLA) . Houses are within easy walking distance and can be visited at your own pace and in your preferred order. The tour price includes a House Tour brochure full of useful information that serves also as your admission to each home, and includes a map of the houses along with historic information and background on each house.

Also included in your ticket price is a not-to-be-missed Parish Tea .

The Parish Tea is held in Blake Hall at historic St. John’s Church, 3240 O St. NW. This lovely tea tradition features homemade tea sandwiches and sweets. You may walk in at any time between 1:30 pm and 4:30 pm to delight in what the parish volunteers are serving!

The Patrons’ Party , held the Wednesday before the House Tour, is another annual Georgetown tradition. Our very own Frida Burling created the Patron’s Party sixteen years ago to raise additional funds for St. John’s ministries. The first Patron’s Party was hosted by author Kitty Kelley and since then many of our wonderful Georgetowners have opened their homes to host this wonderful party.

You can  become a Corporate Sponsor , be an Advertiser in the House Tour Magazine , inquire about our Patrons Party , or get additional information by emailing [email protected] or calling St. John’s Church at (202) 338-1796.  We look forward to seeing you at the house tour!

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The 90th Annual Georgetown House Tour

Celebrating 90 Years: Explore One of Washington’s Most Distinctive Neighborhoods at the 90th Annual Georgetown House Tour!

WHAT: On Saturday, April 22, 2023, St. John’s Episcopal Church will host the 90th Georgetown House Tour, which is believed to be the oldest, most prestigious house tour in the country. This annual event, which attracts more than 1,800 guests each year, gives locals and out-of-towners alike the opportunity to visit historic homes in a variety of styles. Some exceptional homes and landmarks will be presented this year highlighting the charm and history of Georgetown’s past with modern design and architectural enhancements showing the evolution of the times. The self-guided tour begins at St. John’s Church where guests will receive a House Tour Magazine complete with an interactive map and historic information about each property. Attendees will also receive complimentary admission to The Parish Tea, which will be held in Blake Hall at historic St. John’s Church, from 1:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. In addition to tea, coffee, and lemonade, guests will enjoy delightful tea sandwiches and delicious desserts made by St. John’s members and generous community partners.

Advanced tickets for this event are priced at $55 per person and are available for purchase here. Tickets may also be purchased at St. John’s Episcopal Church two days before and the day of the tour at 3240 O Street, NW, 20007, and are priced at $60 per person.

WHEN: Saturday, April 22, 2023. Homes will be open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Parish Tea will be served at the historic St. John’s Episcopal Church Georgetown, from 1:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

WHERE: St. John’s Episcopal Church is located at 3240 O Street, NW, Washington, DC 20007.

WHY: St. John’s Episcopal Church, Georgetown Parish and has a long and storied history. The original church building was built in 1796 and completed in 1804. President Thomas Jefferson and Francis Scott Key, author of our National Anthem, were founding members of the church and Dolley Madison was a regular attendee. St. John’s has continued to grow and now has many programs for parishioners and the larger Washington, D.C. community. St. John’s Church is engaged in many outreach programs, which are supported, in part, by the Georgetown House Tour. Over the past few years, St. John’s has funded a broad range of human service organizations, including: Bishop Walker School, Bright Beginnings, Cornerstone Community, Seabury Senior Ministries, Georgetown Ministry Center, Grate Patrol, Jubilee Jobs, DC Volunteer Lawyers Project, Manna, Metro Teens & Pediatric AIDS, New Futures, and Joseph House (all in the Washington metro area), in addition to Seafarers & International House, American Near East Refugee Aid, Episcopal Diocese of Jerusalem, and Honduras Support through the Episcopal Diocese of Washington.

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Presented by St. John's Georgetown

2024 Georgetown House Tour

Registration ends Saturday, 04/20/2024 12:00am EDT

Date & Time

About this event.

We are thrilled to announce that the 91st Georgetown House Tour will take place on  Saturday, April 20, 2024,  from 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Tickets are available online until midnight the night before the tour, and then in person the morning of the tour, starting at 10:00 am.  Tickets purchased in advance online are $60 each, and tickets purchased the day of the tour are $65. Groups of 10 are $55 per person and are encouraged to contact Kurt in the St. John's office to make arrangements.

Since 1931, St. John’s Episcopal Church has organized and hosted the Georgetown House Tour to raise funds for ministry and outreach. From day one, the House Tour has been enabling the mission of St John’s in the greater Georgetown community.

Each year the Georgetown House Tour features a number of Georgetown’s most beautiful homes–learn about the 2022 tour from  ABC 7 (WJLA) . Houses are within easy walking distance and can be visited at your own pace and in your preferred order. The tour price includes a House Tour brochure full of useful information that serves also as your admission to each home, and includes a map of the houses along with historic information and background on each house.

Also included in your ticket price is a not-to-be-missed   Parish Tea .

The  Parish Tea  is held in Blake Hall at historic St. John’s Church, 3240 O St. NW. This lovely tea tradition features homemade tea sandwiches and sweets. You may walk in at any time between 1:30 pm and 4:30 pm to delight in what the parish volunteers are serving!

Food for this year’s Tea has been provided by:

• Relish Catering
• Georgetown Cupcake
• The Copperhite Family Pies
• Olivia Macaron

Please note that tickets to the Georgetown House Tour are non-refundable. While we pray for great weather, the 2024 Georgetown House Tour will take place on April 20th, rain or shine. 

Getting There

St. John's Episcopal Church 3240 O Street NW Washington, District of Columbia 20007 United States

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clock This article was published more than  1 year ago

Annual Georgetown tour to showcase historic homes

A previous version of this article listed an incorrect address for one of the homes on the tour. The correct address is 3264 P St. NW, not 3624 P St. NW. This version has been corrected.

Since 1931, residents and visitors to D.C. have gained entrance to historic homes through the Georgetown House Tour sponsored by St. John’s Episcopal Church.

More than 1,600 people typically participate in the self-guided tour each year. This year’s event will take place April 23 with eight homes and landmarks that showcase the historic neighborhood’s architecture, including modern design enhancements.

Among the homes available for tours this year are chef Julia Child’s 1950s home at 2706 Olive St. NW , which was recently sold following a five-year renovation by architect Dale Overmyer; 3323 R St. NW, home to interior designer Skip Sroka and his husband, John Kammeier; and Victorian-style homes at 3264 P St. NW and 1519 28th St. NW.

Julia Child’s Georgetown house on the market for $3.5 million

Other buildings on the tour include 3131 P St. NW, an end-unit rowhouse that belongs to Sara Swabb, founder and creative director of StorieCollective, who recently renovated the house to make it more comfortable for her young family; 3130 Dumbarton St. NW and its Nantucket-inspired guest cottage; 3312 N St. NW, one of Georgetown’s oldest homes; and the private City Tavern Club at 3206 M St. NW.

The Georgetown House Tour starts at St. John’s Episcopal Church, at 3240 O St. NW, where participants can pick up a map and information. Homes will be open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Participants are also invited to the Parish Tea served in Blake Hall at the church from 1:30 to 4:30 p.m.

The annual Patron’s Party for the Georgetown House Tour will be held April 20 from 6 to 8 p.m. at the Langhorne Residence, 1680 31st St. NW. Proceeds from this event benefit St. John’s ministries to homeless adults and children, the unemployed, senior citizens and low-income children at D.C. public schools.

Advance tickets for the Patron’s Party start at $300 per person and go up to $2,500 for eight tickets, which includes a listing in the Georgetown House Tour brochure as well as eight tickets to the Georgetown House Tour & Tea.

Proceeds from ticket sales for the Georgetown House Tour help the church support a variety of causes, such as the Bishop Walker School, Bright Beginnings, Cornerstone Community, Seabury Senior Ministries, Georgetown Ministry Center, Grate Patrol, Jubilee Jobs, D.C. Volunteer Lawyers Project, Manna, Metro Teens & Pediatric AIDS, New Futures, and Joseph House (all in the Washington metro area), in addition to Seafarers & International House, American Near East Refugee Aid, Episcopal Diocese of Jerusalem and Honduras Support through the Episcopal Diocese of Washington.

Advance tickets for the Georgetown House Tour are priced at $55 per person and are available for purchase by clicking here . Tickets may also be purchased at St. John’s Episcopal Church two days before and the day of the tour for $60 per person. Masks and proof of vaccination are required for all guests.

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Welcome back the 89th annual georgetown house tour, april 23, by robert devaney • april 13, 2022 0 2110.

Welcome Back! The 89th Georgetown House Tour: Perfect Recipe for Coming Home April 23   

“The committee of volunteers that works on the tour is just tremendously dedicated and sincere about the mission of the tour,” said Leanos, a St. John’s parishioner, and a volunteer since 2017. “ Our volunteers from St. John’s, Georgetown, and the community have rallied around the return of the House Tour. The tour is very near and dear to many, and its return marks a return to socializing with friends, family and community once again.”   

tags Benjamin Bradlee Donna Leanos Emily Sower Frida Burling Georgetown House Tour Julia Child Kathryn Minor Jones Patrons' Party Sally Quinn Shakespeare Theatre St. John's Church

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This is a repeating event december 10, 2023 11:00 am

Preservation Georgetown's Holiday Home Tour 2023

09 dec 11:00 am 5:00 pm Preservation Georgetown's Holiday Home Tour 2023

Event Details

A Georgetown staple for more than 40 years, this year’s event features 5 historic homes filled with tales of Georgetown’s past, present and future.

A Georgetown staple for more than 40 years, this year’s event features 5 historic homes filled with tales of Georgetown’s past, present and future. Tours are available from 11 am – 5 pm on Saturday, December 9, and 12 noon – 5 pm on Sunday, December 10. You may start at any home and make your own path to see the others.

Please be aware that children under 2 are free but must be carried as no strollers are allowed in the houses. Children over 2 must have a ticket. Also, no food, drinks or photos are allowed in the homes.

For more information and tickets, please go to https://www.eventbrite.com/e/preservation-georgetowns-holiday-tour-2023-tickets-709008041137

(photo of house in a past tour)

(Saturday) 11:00 am - 5:00 pm

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THE WASHINGTON LOBBYIST

Tickets for the 91st Annual Georgetown House Tour 2024 – Upgrade to the Patron’s Party!

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Experience Historic Elegance & Modern Design in Washington’s Iconic Neighborhood

Dive into the heart of Washington’s history and charm at the 91st Annual Georgetown House Tour . On April 20, 2024, hosted by St. John’s Episcopal Church, this event isn’t just a tour—it’s an immersive journey through Georgetown’s architectural marvels, blending historic grace with contemporary flair. Picture yourself wandering through historic homes, each narrating its own past while flaunting the best of modern living.

Secure your spot now! Advance tickets are $60 until the eve of the tour. Day-of-tour tickets are $65 , offering a chance to explore unique residences that marry historic character with modern luxury.

Elevate your experience at the Patron’s Party for $325 per person on Wednesday evening April 17, setting the stage for the house tour. Your ticket grants access to the tour, the Parish Tea, and the Patron’s Party, complete with garden cocktails and treats, all supporting noble causes.

Witness homes that skillfully intertwine history and luxury, from a historic townhouse to a reenvisioned Dutch Colonial cottage. These thoughtfully renovated homes embody Georgetown’s distinct vibe. Plus, the event supports various charities, continuing a tradition of giving since 1931.

Your adventure includes the Parish Tea at St. John’s Church, where delightful refreshments await. This event isn’t just a tour—it’s a celebration of community, history, and architectural splendor.

Circle April 20, 2024, on your calendar. Whether a local or visitor, the Georgetown House Tour is an essential experience showcasing Georgetown’s most captivating homes. Join us to step into the stories of Georgetown’s finest dwellings.

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• April 6, 2022
• By The Georgetown Dish

Georgetown House Tour and Patrons Party

This year's Tour includes Julia Child's House and City Tavern Club.

On Saturday, April 23, 2022, St. John’s Episcopal Church will host the 89th Georgetown House Tour. Eight exceptional homes and landmarks will be presented this year highlighting the charm and history of Georgetown’s past with modern design and architectural enhancements showing the evolution of the times.  The self-guided tour begins at St. John’s Episcopal Church located at 3240 O Street in Georgetown. Purchase tickets here .

To help kickoff this year’s festivities, the Georgetown House Tour will host its annual Patrons Party on Wednesday, April 20, 2022, from 6:00 pm to 8:00 pm. Ticket includes admission to the Tour.  Purchase tickets here .

Homes on the 2022 Georgetown House Tour:

1.      3264 P Street   Georgetown's hidden Victorian gem. This 1840s home boasts enchanting grounds with gracious and enchanting gardens.

2.      3131 P Street  This end unit is home to Sara Swabb, founder and creative director of StorieCollective.  Swabb recently completed a full renovation to make it more conducive for her young family.  Part of the renovation’s scope included restoring the previously stripped millwork to its 1890s origins.  Guests can anticipate modern light fixtures, a large open kitchen, and a lower-level family room. This home was built on land known as the Rock of Dumbarton and boasts long range garden views, the benefit of bordering the large estate of the Albritton family.

3.      2706 Olive Street  The 1950's home of famed chef Julia Child .  This clapboard 1870 colonial-style home, which the chef affectionately called her “little jewel” is where Child produced recipes for one of her earliest cookbooks,  Mastering the Art of French Cooking .  The home was built in a post-Civil War era by a notable African American carpenter, Edgar Murphy.  Child purchased the home with her husband in the late 1940s, and in the 1970s, acclaimed architect Hugh Newell Jacobsen, best known for designing Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ home in Martha’s Vineyard, modernized the home, adding a wall of windows that are still intact today. The home recently sold following a five-year renovation by notable architect Dale Overmyer.

4.      3323 R Street Home to interior design  Skip Sroka and his husband John Kammeier, this property was recently reconfigured and repurposed.  Guests can anticipate a centered staircase and a second floor garden room complete with French doors and a Juliet balcony overlooking the rear walled garden. Other notable design elements include custom designed furniture as well as antiques, rugs, art objects and paintings.

5.      1519 28th Street  A bow front Victorian dating to the late 1800's, this house features a deep garden and a small water feature that was previously on the Georgetown Garden Tour. 

6.      3130 Dumbarton Street This home is full of light with large windows and French doors which lead to a double sized lot.  The home is adorned with period pieces and the walls are adorned with the owner’s extensive art collection. Guests are encouraged to visit the Carriage House, which has been converted to a Nantucket-inspired guest cottage complete with a large pool and patio.

7.      3312 N Street This home is one of the earliest homes in Georgetown, built in 1818. Designed in the true Federal style architecture. Beautiful updates throughout have been done while maintaining the original details of the home.

8.      3206 M Street City Tavern Club is a private club housed in one of the oldest buildings in Washington, and the last remaining Federal-style tavern in the city.  Constructed in 1796 and first managed by Clement Sewall, who served in the Revolutionary War alongside his friend John Parke Curtis, George Washington’s stepson.      

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Georgetown Arts & Culture

This is a repeating event may 3, 2024 8:00 pm

First Friday Ghost Tours 2024- The Williamson Museum

05 apr 8:00 pm First Friday Ghost Tours 2024- The Williamson Museum

Event Details

Experience Georgetown’s Original Ghost Tour! Take a historically accurate one hour walk through the legends, haunts, and spirits of Downtown Georgetown. Every First Friday – March 2024 through November

Experience Georgetown’s Original Ghost Tour! Take a historically accurate one hour walk through the legends, haunts, and spirits of Downtown Georgetown.

Every First Friday – March 2024 through November 2024**

**No Ghost Tour in May 2024, Ghost Tours in October 2024 will be a separate event.

Ticket Prices:

• $15 per museum member/student/military
• $20 per non-museum member

Get tickets and grab your friends for a haunted First Friday on the Square.  Tours meet at the museum.  Tickets may be purchased online or at the door.  First-come, first served, limited to 20 people per tour. Tour will run rain or shine. Subject to cancellation during severe weather.

(Friday) 8:00 pm

The Williamson Museum

716 S Austin Ave, Georgetown, TX 78626

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Future Event Times in this Repeating Event Series

may 3, 2024 8:00 pm june 7, 2024 8:00 pm july 5, 2024 8:00 pm august 2, 2024 8:00 pm september 6, 2024 8:00 pm october 4, 2024 8:00 pm november 1, 2024 8:00 pm

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Theatres in Moscow

Cultural life of Moscow city is various and rich! Operas, ballets, symphonic concerts... Russian composers have created some of the most beautiful classical music. Russian classical music is very popular in Moscow. It is performed in many beautiful historical venues. Do not forget to include a visit to a concert hall in your itinerary when you are planning your stay in Moscow! And do it in advance.

There are almost no restrictions on dress code in Russian theatres. Visitors may wear jeans and sports shoes, they may have a backpack with them. Only shorts are not allowed.

A typical feature of Russian theatre – visitors are bringing a lot of flowers which they present to their favorite performers after the show.

Here are some practical advices where to go and how to buy tickets.

The Bolshoi Theatre

The Bolshoi Theatre is the oldest, the most famous and popular opera and ballet theatre in Russia. The word “Bolshoi” means “big” in Russian. You can buy a ticket online in advance, 2-3 months before the date of performance on the official website . Prices for famous ballets are high: 6-8 thousand rubles for a seat in stalls. Tickets to operas are cheaper: you can get a good seat for 4-5 thousand rubles. Tickets are cheaper for daytime performances and performances on the New Stage. The New Stage is situated in the light-green building to the left of the Bolshoi's main building. The quality of operas and ballets shown on the New Stage is excellent too. However, you should pay attention that many seats of the Bolshoi’s Old and New Stages have limited visibility . If you want to see the Bolshoi’s Old Stage but all tickets are sold out, you can order a tour of the theatre. You can book such a tour on the official website.

If you want, following Russian tradition, to give flowers to the performers at the end of the show, in the Bolshoi flowers should be presented via special staff who collects these flowers in advance.

In August the Bolshoi is closed.

The Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Music Theatre

This theatre is noteworthy. On one hand, it offers brilliant classical opera and ballet performances. On the other hand, it is an experimental venue for modern artists. You can check the program and buy tickets online here http://stanmus.com/ . If you are opera lover, get a ticket to see superstar Hibla Gerzmava . The theatre has a very beautiful historic building and a stage with a good view from every seat. Tickets are twice cheaper than in the Bolshoi.

The Novaya Opera

“Novaya” means “New” in Russian. This opera house was founded in 1991 by a famous conductor Eugene Kolobov. Its repertoire has several directions: Russian and Western classics, original shows and divertissements, and operas of the 20th and 21st centuries. It is very popular with Muscovites for excellent quality of performances, a comfortable hall, a beautiful Art Nouveau building and a historic park Hermitage, which is situated right next to it. You can buy tickets online here http://www.novayaopera.ru/en .

Galina Vishnevskaya Opera Center

The Opera Center has become one of the best theatrical venues in Moscow. It was founded in 2002 by great diva Galina Vishnevskaya. Nowadays its artistic director is Olga Rostropovich, daughter of Galina Vishnevskaya and her husband Mstislav Rostropovich, great cellist and conductor. Not only best young opera singers perform here, but also world music stars do; chamber and symphonic concerts, theatrical productions and musical festivals take place here. You can see what is on the program here http://opera-centre.ru/theatre . Unfortunately “booking tickets online” is available in Russian only. If you need help, you can contact us at and we can book a ticket for you. 

Tchaikovsky Concert Hall and The Great Hall of Moscow Conservatory

These are two major concert halls for symphonic music in Moscow. Both feature excellent acoustics, impressive interior, various repertoire and best performers. You can check the program here http://meloman.ru/calendar/ . You need just to switch to English. Booking tickets online is available only for owners of Russian, Ukrainian and Belorussian phone numbers. If you need help, you can contact us and we can book a ticket for you. 

Moscow International Performing Arts Center (MIPAC)

This modern and elegant concert hall houses performances of national and foreign symphony orchestras, chamber ensembles, solo instrumentalists, opera singers, ballet dancers, theatre companies, jazz bands, variety and traditional ensembles. Actually, it has three concert halls placed on three different levels and having separate entrances. The President of MIPAC is People’s Artist of the USSR Vladimir Spivakov, conductor of “Virtuosy Moskvy” orchestra. You can see pictures of the concert halls here http://www.mmdm.ru/en/content/halls . The program is impressive in its variety but is not translated into English. You can contact us at and we can find a performance for you.

Applicable for serving and retired personnel of Armed Forces and Paramilitary Forces, their recognised dependants like spouses and children, and war widows. It is mandatory to show a valid ID or dependant card at the airport, without which boarding might be denied.

Only students above 12 years of age are eligible for special fares and/or additional baggage allowances. Carrying valid student ID cards and student visas (where applicable) is mandatory, else the passenger may be denied boarding or asked to pay for extra baggage.

Only senior citizens above the age of 60 years can avail this special fare. It is mandatory to produce proof of Date of Birth at the airport, without which prevailing fares will be charged.

Step up physical distancing by booking two or three adjacent seats for one traveller. Opt from ‘Double/ Entire Row’ by Indigo or ‘GoMore’ service by GoAir - available only for domestic one-way economy class bookings.

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Moscow To Georgetown Flights

Book Moscow to Georgetown flight tickets at lowest price. Get best deals on your upcoming Moscow to Georgetown flights only on MakeMyTrip. Also Book Georgetown to Moscow Flights . Currently 20 flights flying from Moscow to Georgetown. To save maximum on flight booking click on below Fare Calendar button and choose your dates.Avail Zero Cancellation for flight bookings.

Moscow-Domodedovo Apt

2Dubai,New York

Use code MMTDEALS to get flat Rs. 899/pax off on your booking + Get additional discount of Rs. 200 on UPI payments

Moscow-Domodedovo Apt to Georgetown , 6 Apr

Emirates EK | 132

Sat, 6 Apr 24

Moscow-Domodedovo Apt, Russia

Sun, 7 Apr 24

Terminal T3

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

BAGGAGE : CHECK IN CABIN

Information not available

Emirates EK | 201

Terminal T4

New York, United States

Caribbean Airlines BW | 527

Mon, 8 Apr 24

Georgetown, Guyana

Fare breakup

TOTAL ₹ 1,92,271

Base Fare ₹ 1,54,390

Surcharges ₹ 37,881

Sorry! Fare rules could not be fetched at the moment.

Economy Flex

Fare offered by airlines.

Economy Flex Plus

Prem eco flexplus

Moscow - Vnukovo Apt

Moscow - Vnukovo Apt to Georgetown , 6 Apr

Emirates EK | 2311 | Operated By flydubai

Moscow - Vnukovo Apt, Russia

Terminal T2

TOTAL ₹ 1,92,302

Base Fare ₹ 1,55,295

Surcharges ₹ 37,007

Emirates EK | 203

MMT Value 1

Premium Economy Flex Plus

Emirates EK | 2145 | Operated By flydubai

Emirates EK | 134

TOTAL ₹ 1,92,365

Base Fare ₹ 1,54,480

Surcharges ₹ 37,885

Moscow to Georgetown Flights Information:-

Looking for Moscow to Georgetown Flight? Here’s all you need to know! For convenience and to save time, pick the airport that is closest to your destination. The nearest airport to Georgetown is Cheddi Jagan International Corporation Airport and the IATA code for the same is GEO. Currently, there are 7 airlines operating flights between the two destinations and approximately 20 flights take off from Moscow to Georgetown every week. Need information on Moscow to Georgetown airfare? The minimum airfare for a Moscow to Georgetown flight would be 192271, which may go up to 711133 depending on the route, booking time and availability. It is recommended that you book a round-trip, since it always works out to be more economical. Flight Details for Moscow to Georgetown If you are looking for Moscow to Georgetown flights, there is no dearth of options to choose from. Several reputed airlines currently offer both direct and indirect flights between the two destinations. Some of these are Caribbean Airlines, American Airlines, Emirates, Qatar Airways, Turkish Airlines, Copa Airlines, Etihad Airways. Out of these, only 0 airlines operate direct flights. Indirect flights may involve more travel time, but they usually cost lesser than direct flights. The number of flights operated by each airline is as follows:Caribbean Airlines: 2, American Airlines: 2, Emirates: 2, Qatar Airways: 2, Turkish Airlines: 2, Copa Airlines: 2, Etihad Airways: 2 To board the first Moscow to Georgetown flight, choose Emirates, Caribbean Airlines, which departs at 01:50 The last flight for this route is Qatar Airways, departing at 23:50 Georgetown Airport Information Cheddi Jagan International Corporation Airport Cheddi Jagan International Airport Corporation, Timehri, E.B.D, Guyana, South America Tel/Fax: +592 261 2244

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About moscow (mow).

Moscow is the city of supremacy. The city brags about the most billionaires, the most expensive cup of coffee and the most gigantic buildings in the world. According to a survey, the city is one of the most expensive and the most unfriendly city in the world. Moscow is the capital city of Russia and is a major political, economic, cultural and scientific centre in Russia and in Europe. The city has played an important role in the development of Russian states and its history. It has remains of imperial and soviet past. The city is situated on the Moskva River. Moscow Kremlin, an ancient fortress, now the residence of the Russian President, is considered to be one of the World Heritage Sites. The city is well served by international airports, railway terminals and underground metro station. Moscow's architecture is world famous and is also known as the site of Saint Basil's Cathedral with its elegant mosque, the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, and the Seven Sisters. It is a very green city when compared to other cities of Western Europe and North America. Gorky Park situated along the Moskva River contains children's attraction, dancing, tennis courts and other sports facilities. Izmaylovsky Park is one of the largest urban parks in the world. Other popular attractions are Moscow Zoo, a zoological garden in two sections connected by a bridge. Museon, often called ‘The Graveyard of Fallen Monuments’ is a sculpture garden that displays the remaining of the former Soviet Union. Moscow is also the home of Russian's performing arts including Ballet and film. It possess a large number of sports facilities and has sixty three stadiums in which Luzhniki Stadium is one of the largest and fourth biggest in entire Europe. Moscow is a city full of different kinds of clubs, restaurants and bars and has one of the world's best and largest nightclubs. Tverskaya Street is the busiest shopping street in Moscow. Moscow is always a popular destination for tourists and you can instantly book cheap air tickets from MakeMyTrip.com. The website has links with some of the finest hotels in the entire world and you can easily book one of them to make your holiday and travel trouble-free. It can be considered as the best online portal in the entire travel industry.

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About georgetown (geo).

Georgetown is one of the oldest and most famous neighbourhoods in Washington, DC. It is a beautiful tourist destination and is famous for its shopping, delectable dining, and vibrant night life. If you’ve ever wanted to witness antebellum mansions then Georgetown is an ideal place for you. One can easily find amazing more than 50 antebellum mansions in the area. One of the best ways to explore the beauty of Georgetown is via boat. Tourists must take a tour in and around Winyah Bay and the surrounding Rivers that makes it a perfect tourist destination for travellers coming from all over the world. The Rice Museum is another major attraction of the city which details the entire history of this crop through dioramas, maps, artefacts and other kind of exhibits. Other popular and sporty activities in the Georgetown area include golf, sailing charters, eco-tours, shell collecting, deep-sea fishing and beach activities and many others at nearby beaches of Georgetown. You can easily find some of the best family vacations rentals in the city. From rustic to ultra-modern, the vacation rental options are plentiful in the Georgetown area. Country Heritage Park, Devereaux House, Farmers Markets, Limehouse Conservation Area, Lucy Maud Montgomery Heritage Garden, The Old Hide House, Terra Cotta Conservation Area, Willow Park Ecology Centre, Williams Mill Visual Arts Centre and many others are major tourist destinations that magnetize tourists from all across the country. Whether you and your family desire a sprawling multi-bedroom rental home or a high-class amenity rich condo or cozy cottage, you can easily find numbers of options to choose the best as per your choice. Book air ticket online at MakeMyTrip.com and save as much time as you want. It will just take few minutes to book your air ticket online as you just need do is to follow few steps. Here, you will get huge discounts on each booking that will make your journey budget-friendly.

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Is Guyana’s Oil a Blessing or a Curse?

More than any single country, Guyana demonstrates the struggle between the consequences of climate change and the lure of the oil economy.

With the discovery of offshore oil, Guyana is now building a natural gas pipeline to bring the byproducts of oil production to a planned energy plant. Credit...

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By Gaiutra Bahadur

Photographs by Keisha Scarville

• March 30, 2024

Basjit Mahabir won’t let me in.

I’m trying to persuade Mr. Mahabir to open the padlocked gate of the Wales Estate, where he guards the ramshackle remains of a factory surrounded by miles of fallow sugar cane fields. The growing and grinding of sugar on this plantation about 10 miles from Georgetown, Guyana’s capital, ended seven years ago, and parts of the complex, its weathered zinc walls the color of rust, have been sold for scrap.

I plead my case. “I lived here when I was a little girl,” I say. “My father used to manage the field lab.” Mr. Mahabir is friendly, but firm. I’m not getting in.

The ruins are the vestiges of a sugar industry that, after enriching British colonizers for centuries, was the measure of the nation’s wealth when it achieved independence.

Now the estate is slated to become part of Guyana’s latest boom, an oil rush that is reshaping the country’s future. This nation that lies off the beaten track, population 800,000, is at the forefront of a global paradox: Even as the world pledges to transition away from fossil fuels , developing countries have many short-term incentives to double down on them.

Before oil, outsiders mostly came to Guyana for eco-tourism, lured by rainforests that cover 87 percent of its land. In 2009, the effort to combat global warming turned this into a new kind of currency when Guyana sold carbon credits totaling $250 million, essentially promising to keep that carbon stored in trees. Guyana’s leadership was praised for this planet-saving effort.

Six years later, Exxon Mobil discovered a bounty of oil under Guyana’s coastal waters. Soon the company and its consortium partners, Hess and the Chinese National Offshore Oil Corporation, began drilling with uncommon speed. The oil, now burned mostly in Europe, is enabling more global emissions — and producing colossal wealth.

The find is projected to become Exxon Mobil’s biggest revenue source by decade’s end. The deal that made it possible — and which gave Exxon Mobil the bulk of the proceeds — has been a point of public outcry and even a lawsuit, with a seeming consensus that Guyana got the short end of the stick. But the deal has nonetheless generated $3.5 billion so far for the country, more money than it has ever seen, significantly more than it gained from conserving trees. It’s enough to chart a new destiny.

The government has decided to pursue that destiny by investing even further in fossil fuels. Most of the oil windfall available in its treasury is going to construct roads and other infrastructure, most notably a 152-mile pipeline to carry ashore natural gas, released while extracting oil from Exxon Mobil’s fields, to generate electricity.

The pipeline will snake across the Wales Estate, carrying the gas to a proposed power plant and to a second plant that will use the byproducts to potentially produce cooking gas and fertilizer. With a price tag of more than $2 billion, it’s the most expensive public infrastructure project in the country’s history. The hope is that with a predictable, plentiful supply of cheap energy, the country can develop economically.

At the same time, climate change laps at Guyana’s shores; much of Georgetown is projected to be underwater by 2030.

Countries like Guyana are caught in a perfect storm where the consequences for extracting fossil fuels collide with the incentives to do so. Unlike wealthy countries, they aren’t responsible for most of the carbon emissions that now threaten the planet. “We’re obviously talking about developing countries here, and if there’s so much social and economic development that still needs to happen, then it’s hard to actually demand a complete ban on fossil fuels,” says Maria Antonia Tigre, a director at the Sabin Center for Climate Change Law at Columbia University. Still, she insists, “we’re in a moment in the climate crisis where no one can get a pass.”

This struggle between the existential threats of climate change and the material gains dangled by fossil fuels bedevils rich countries, too. The International Energy Agency predicts that oil demand will peak in five years as big economies transition to renewable sources. But it is a transition of indeterminate length, and in the meantime, the Biden administration approved drilling in the Alaska wilderness just last year, and the United States is producing more oil than ever in its history. A country like Guyana, with an emerging economy, has even more reason to jump at temptation.

The country has already been transformed. Next to its famously elegant but decaying colonial architecture, new houses, hotels, malls, gyms and offices of concrete and glass crop up constantly. Trucks carrying quartz sand for all this construction judder along the highways. While nearly half of Guyanese still live below the poverty line, the country is bustling with possibility, and newcomers arrive from around the world. During a five-month stay there, I met a logistics manager from Sri Lanka, a nightclub singer from Cuba, a Briton developing a shrimp farm and a Nigerian security guard who joked that a sure sign that Guyana had become a hustler’s paradise was that he was there.

As I survey the stranded assets of the sugar works on the Wales Estate, imagining the steel pipes to come, the gleaming future Guyana’s government promises feels haunted by its past as a colony cursed by its resources. The potential for the petroleum boom to implode is in plain sight next door, where Venezuela — which has recently resurrected old claims to much of Guyana’s territory — is a mess of corruption, authoritarian rule and economic volatility.

For centuries, foreign powers set the terms for this sliver of South America on the Atlantic Ocean. The British, who first took possession in 1796, treated the colony as a vast sugar factory. They trafficked enslaved Africans to labor on the plantations and then, after abolition, found a brutally effective substitute by contracting indentured servants, mainly from India. Mr. Mahabir, who worked cutting cane for most of his life, is descended from those indentured workers, as am I.

Fifty-seven years ago, the country shook off its imperial shackles, but genuine democracy took more time. On the eve of independence, foreign meddling installed a leader who swiftly became a dictator. Tensions between citizens of African and Indian descent, encouraged under colonialism, turned violent at independence and set off a bitter contest for governing supremacy that continues to this day. Indigenous groups have been courted by both sides in this political and ethnic rivalry.

It wasn’t until the early 1990s that Guyana held its first free and fair elections. The moment was full of possibility. The institutions of democracy, such as an independent judiciary, began to emerge. And the legislature passed a series of robust environmental laws.

Now that Exxon Mobil has arrived to extract a new resource, some supporters of democracy and the environment see those protections as endangered. They criticize the fossil-fuel giant, with global revenue 10 times the size of Guyana’s gross domestic product, as a new kind of colonizer and have sued their government to press it to enforce its laws and regulations. The judge in one of those cases has rebuked the country’s Environmental Protection Agency as being “submissive” toward the oil industry.

Addressing some of these activists at a recent public hearing, Vickram Bharrat, the minister of natural resources, defended the government’s oversight of oil and gas. “There’s no evidence of bias toward any multinational corporations,” he said. Exxon Mobil, in an emailed statement, said its work on the natural gas project would “help provide lower-emissions, reliable, gas-powered electricity to Guyanese consumers.”

The world is at a critical juncture, and Guyana sits at the intersection. The country of my birth is a tiny speck on the planet, but the discovery of oil there has cracked open questions of giant significance. How can wealthy countries be held to account for their promises to move away from fossil fuels? Can the institutions of a fragile democracy keep large corporations in check? And what kind of future is Guyana promising its citizens as it places bets on commodities that much of the world is vowing to make obsolete?

A land of new possibilities

Oil has created a Guyana with pumpkin spice lattes. The first Starbucks store appeared outside the capital last year; it was such a big deal that the president and the American ambassador attended the opening. People still “lime” — hang out — with local Carib beer and boomboxes on the storied sea wall, but those with the cash can now go for karaoke and fancy cocktails at a new Hard Rock Cafe.

The influx of wealth has introduced new tensions along economic lines in an already racially divided country. Hyperinflation has made fish, vegetables and other staples costlier, and many Guyanese feel priced out of pleasures in their own country. A new rooftop restaurant, described to me as “pizza for Guyana’s 1 percent” by its consultant chef from Brooklyn, set off a backlash on social media for serving a cut of beef that costs $335, as much as a security guard in the capital earns in a month.

This aspirational consumerist playground is grafted onto a ragged infrastructure. Lexus S.U.V.s cruise new highways but must still gingerly wade through knee-deep floods in Georgetown when it rains, thanks to bad drainage. Electricity, the subject of much teeth-sucking and dark humor, is expensive and erratic. It’s also dirty, powered by heavy fuel, a tarlike residue from refining oil. In 2023, 96 blackouts halted activity across the country for an average of one hour each. A growing number of air-conditioners taxing aging generators are partly to blame, but the system has been tripped up by weeds entangling transmission lines, backhoes hitting power poles and once, infamously, a rat.

The country’s larger companies — makers of El Dorado rum, timber producers — generate their own electricity outside the power grid. Small companies, however, don’t have that option. This year, the Inter-American Development Bank cited electrical outages as a major obstacle to doing business in Guyana.

The government’s investment in a natural gas pipeline and power plant offers the prospect of steady and affordable power. The gas, a byproduct of Exxon Mobil’s drilling, tends not to be commercialized and is often flared off as waste, emitting greenhouse gases in the process. But at the government’s request, Exxon Mobil and its consortium partners agreed to send some of the natural gas to the Wales site. The consortium is supposed to supply it without cost, but no official sales agreement has been made public yet.

At international conferences, rich countries have pledged to help poorer, lower-emitting ones to raise their living standards sustainably with renewable energy, but the money has fallen short . Natural gas is cleaner than the heavy fuel Guyana now uses, and the country’s leaders claim that it will serve as an eventual bridge to renewable energy. The fact that it’s not as clean as solar or other renewable sources seems, to some local manufacturers, beside the point because the status quo is so challenging.

During blackouts, Upasna Mudlier, who runs Denmor Garments, a textile company that makes uniforms, fire safety jackets and lingerie, has to send home the two dozen seamstresses she employs. That means a big hit in productivity. A chemist in her late 30s, she inherited the company from her father. Ms. Mudlier was nervous about networking in the burly crush of the male-dominated local business elite, but she nonetheless attended an event hosted by a business development center funded by Exxon Mobil. She leaned in, and it paid off: She won a contract to make a thousand coveralls for workers building an oil production vessel headed for Guyana’s waters.

It was a bright spot nonetheless dimmed by her electric bill. An astounding 40 percent of her operating budget goes to paying for power. Ms. Mudlier is eager for the natural gas plant. Cheaper, reliable energy could allow her to price her products to compete internationally.

Textiles are a tiny niche in Guyana, but hers is the kind of manufacturing that experts say Guyana needs to avoid becoming a petroleum state. Ms. Mudlier agrees with the government’s messaging on the gas project. “It will create more jobs for people and bring more investments into our country and more diversity to our economy,” she said.

Widespread anxiety that the best new jobs would go to foreigners led to a law that sets quotas for oil and gas companies to hire and contract with locals. Komal Singh, a construction magnate in his mid-50s, has benefited from the law. Mr. Singh, who directs an influential government advisory body on business policy, works as a joint partner with international companies building the Wales pipeline and treating toxic waste from offshore oil production.

“We say to them, ‘It’s you, me and Guyanese,’” he told me. “If Guyanese are not part of the show, end of conversation.”

Guyana has lost a greater share of its people than any other country, with two in five people born there living abroad. So the oil boom and the local partner requirement have set off something of a frenzy for passports and have fueled debate over who, exactly, is Guyanese. I met a British private equity manager with a Guyanese mother who obtained citizenship shortly after his second visit to the country. One local partner’s contested citizenship became a matter for the High Court.

With the value of land and housing skyrocketing, some local property owners have profited by becoming landlords to expats or by selling abandoned fields at Manhattan prices for commercial real estate. But to many Guyanese, it has seemed as if “comebackees,” the term for returning members of the diaspora, or the politically connected elite are the most poised to benefit from the boom.

Sharia Bacchus returned to Guyana after two decades living in Florida. Ms. Bacchus, who has family connections in the government and private sector, started her own real estate brokerage. She rents apartments and houses to expats for as much as $6,000 a month.

I shadowed her as she showed a prospective buyer — a retired U.S. Marine of Guyanese descent — a duplex condo in a coveted new gated community. She eagerly pointed out amenities that comebackees want: air-conditioning, a pool and, of course, an automatic backup generator.

“If you lose power at any time, you don’t have to worry about that,” she said, reassuringly.

The ghosts of the past

As glimpses of this new Guyana emerge, the ghosts of the past linger. A year ago, a Georgetown hotel, hustling like so many to take advantage of the new oil money, staged a $170-a-head rum-tasting event called “Night at the Estate House.” I’d been trying, unsuccessfully, to interview Exxon Mobil’s top brass in Guyana. When I heard rumors that its country manager would attend, I bought a ticket and, though he was a no-show, I found a seat with his inner circle.

As we sipped El Dorado rum in the garden of a colonial-style mansion, one of the event’s hosts gave a speech that invoked a time when “B.G.,” the insider’s shorthand for British Guiana, the country’s colonial name, also stood for Booker’s Guiana. Now, the speaker observed matter-of-factly, “it’s Exxon’s Guyana.”

Booker McConnell was a British multinational originally founded by two brothers who became rich on sugar and enslaved people. At one point, the company owned 80 percent of the sugar plantations in British Guiana, including the Wales Estate. The Exxon Mobil executive sitting next to me didn’t know any of this. His face reddened when I told him that the speaker had just placed his employer in a long line of corporate colonialism.

Independence came in 1966, but the U.S. and British governments engineered into power Guyana’s first leader, Forbes Burnham, a Black lawyer whom they deemed more pliable than Cheddi Jagan, a radical son of Indian plantation laborers, who was seen as a Marxist peril. But Burnham grew increasingly dictatorial as well as, in a twist of geopolitical fate, socialist.

Booker, which would later give its name to the Booker Prize in literature, still owned Wales at independence. But in the mid-1970s, Burnham took control of the country’s resources, nationalizing sugar production as well as bauxite mining. Like other former colonies, Guyana wanted to make its break with imperialism economic as well as political.

Burnham pushed the idea of economic independence to the breaking point, banning all imports. Staples from abroad, such as cooking oil, potatoes, wheat flour and split peas, had to be replaced with local substitutes. But Guyana didn’t have the farms and factories to meet the demand, so people turned to the black market, waited in ration lines and went hungry.

Guyana was 15 years free when my family arrived on the Wales Estate, by then part of the nationalized Guyana Sugar Company; my parents, then in their 20s, were young, too. My father, the son of plantation laborers, had just earned a natural sciences degree from the University of Guyana, founded at independence to educate the people who would build the new nation. As field lab manager, he tested sucrose in the cane to determine harvest time and oversaw the trapping of rats and snakes in the fields.

We lived in a former overseer’s house two doors from the estate’s main gate, where Mr. Mahabir now stands sentinel, and my mother taught high school in the guard’s village. My parents had only ever studied by kerosene lamp or gas lantern — but this house had electricity, generated on the estate by burning sugar cane trash.

I can remember at age 6 the cold delicacy of a refrigerated apple, a Christmas present from American aunts. It wouldn’t be long before we joined them.

Rigged elections kept Burnham in power for two decades of hardship and insecurity, both ethnic and economic. As soon as our long-awaited green cards allowing entry to the United States were approved, we left, participating in an exodus that created a “barrel economy,” with many communities sustained by money and care packages sent in barrels from relatives abroad. That exodus gutted Guyana: Today, less than 3 percent of the population is college educated.

Burnham’s death in 1985 touched off a series of events that began to change the country. Within seven years, Guyana held its first free and fair elections. Jagan, by then an old man, was elected president. Soon, a younger generation of his party took office and wholeheartedly embraced capitalism. Private companies could once again bid for Guyana’s vast resources. Corruption, endemic in the Burnham era, took new forms.

Then came proof of the dangers of unchecked extraction. In 1995, a dam at a Canadian-owned gold mine gave way. The 400 million gallons of cyanide-laced waste it had held back fouled two major rivers. Simone Mangal-Joly, now an environmental and international development specialist, was among the scientists on the ground testing cyanide levels in the river. The waters had turned red, and Indigenous villagers covered themselves in plastic to protect their skin. “It’s where they bathed,” Ms. Mangal-Joly recalled. “It was their drinking water, their cooking water, their transportation.”

The tragedy led to action. The next year, the government passed its first environmental protection law. Seven years later, the right to a healthy environment was added to the Constitution. Guyana managed to enshrine what the United States and Canada, for instance, have not.

For a moment, Guyana’s natural capital — the vast tropical rainforests that make it one of the very few countries that is a net carbon sink — was among its most prized assets. Bharrat Jagdeo, then president, sold the carbon stored in its forests to Norway to offset pollution from that country’s own petroleum production in 2009. Indigenous groups received $20 million from that deal to develop their villages and gain title to their ancestral lands, though some protested that they had little input. Mr. Jagdeo was hailed as a United Nations “Champion of the Earth.”

And then Exxon Mobil struck oil.

The vision of a green Guyana now vies with its fast-rising status as one of the largest new sources of oil in the world. The country’s sharply divided political parties stand in rare accord on drilling. Mr. Jagdeo, who is now Guyana’s vice president but still dictates much government policy, is a fervent supporter of the Wales project.

But a small, steadfast, multiracial movement of citizens is testing the power of the environmental laws. David Boyd, the U.N. special rapporteur on human rights and the environment, describes the country as a front line for litigation using innovative rights arguments to fight climate change. It includes the first constitutional climate change case in the region, brought by an Indigenous tour guide and a university lecturer.

Not all critics of the petroleum development are environmentalists. What unites them is the belief that the nation’s hard-won constitutional protections should be stronger than any corporation.

‘The rule of law is the rule of law.’

Liz Deane-Hughes comes from a prominent family. Her father founded one of Georgetown’s most respected law firms, and in the 1980s, back in Burnham’s time, he fought against repressive changes to the constitution. She remembers her parents taking her to rousing rallies led by a multiracial party battling Burnham’s rule. When she was 13, she came home one day to find police officers searching their home. “I lived through the 1980s in Guyana,” says Ms. Deane-Hughes, who practiced at the family firm before quitting the law. “So I do not want to go back there on any level.”

I talked to Ms. Deane-Hughes, now an artist and jewelry designer, on the sprawling veranda of a colonial-style house built on land that has been in her family for five generations. The government has claimed part of it for the natural gas pipeline, which crosses private property as well as the Wales Estate. But the issue, she told me, is bigger than her backyard.

Last month, Ms. Deane-Hughes joined other activists, virtually, at a hearing before the Inter-American Commission on Human Rights, making the argument that oil companies have compromised environmental governance in Guyana. This coterie of activists have spoken out and filed suits to bring the corporation under the scrutiny of the country’s laws and regulations.

Ms. Mangal-Joly, who responded to the cyanide disaster that prompted those environmental laws, says the government has failed to fulfill its oversight duties. As part of her doctoral research at University College London, she found that Guyana’s Environmental Protection Agency had waived the environmental assessments for every facility treating toxic waste or storing radioactive materials produced by offshore oil production.

The gas plant, too, has been given a pass. In January, the E.P.A. waived the environmental assessment for the proposed Wales plant because Exxon Mobil, although it isn’t building the plant, had done one for the pipeline.

The E.P.A. defended the decision. “It is good and common practice” to rely on existing environmental assessments “even when done by other project developers,” wrote an agency spokeswoman on behalf of its executive director. The agency asserted its right to waive assessments as it sees fit and noted that the courts hadn’t overturned its exemptions, saying, “This no doubt speaks to the E.P.A.’s high degree of technical competence and culture of compliance within the laws of Guyana.”

Ms. Mangal-Joly notes that the power plant sits above an aquifer that supplies drinking water to most of the country. “Our water table is shallow,” she says. “There’s a generation, and generations to come, that will not inherit clean water. We are despoiling a resource far more valuable than oil.”

The waiver infuriated Ms. Deane-Hughes. And the independence of the board that hears citizen concerns struck her as a sham. Its chairman, Mahender Sharma, heads Guyana’s energy agency, and his wife directs the new government company created to manage the power plant. At a hearing of the board, Ms. Deane-Hughes cited the mandate against conflicts of interest in the Environmental Protection Act and asked Mr. Sharma to recuse himself. “I would like you not to make a decision,” she told him.

Six weeks later, the board did make a decision: It allowed the power company to keep its environmental permit without doing an impact statement.

Mr. Sharma, the energy director, dismissed the critics as a privileged intellectual elite sheltered from the deprivations that have led many Guyanese to welcome the oil industry.

At the Inter-American commission meeting, Mr. Bharrat, the minister of natural resources, argued that it is his government’s right as well as its responsibility to balance economic growth with sustainability. “Our country’s development and environmental protection are not irreconcilable aims,” he told them. And he reminded them that they can turn to the courts with their complaints.

Guyana’s highest court has dealt the activists both setbacks and victories. In one of the more consequential cases, activists have thus far prevailed. Frederick Collins, who heads the local anti-corruption group Transparency Institute of Guyana, sued the E.P.A. for not requiring Exxon Mobil’s local subsidiaries to carry a more substantial insurance policy. Mr. Collins argued that the existing $600 million policy was inadequate in the extreme. Major oil spills aren’t rare — two happen worldwide every year. The biggest blowout ever, at BP’s Deepwater Horizon, cost that company $64 billion. The deepwater drilling in Guyana is the riskiest kind.

A retired insurance executive and Methodist preacher, Mr. Collins had been feeling pessimistic about the case ever since the judge allowed Exxon Mobil, with its daunting resources, to join the E.P.A. as a defendant a year ago. In legal filings, the defendants had dismissed him as a “meddlesome busybody” without legal standing to bring the suit.

But in May, the judge, Sandil Kissoon, pilloried the E.P.A. as “a derelict, pliant” agency whose “state of inertia and slumber” had “placed the nation, its citizens and the environment in grave peril.” He found that the insurance held by Exxon Mobil’s local subsidiary failed to meet international standards and ordered the parent company to guarantee its unlimited liability for all disaster costs — or stop drilling. The case is being appealed.

An Exxon Mobil spokesperson said by email that the company’s insurance is “adequate and appropriate” and that a $2 billion guarantee it recently provided, at the order of the court considering the appeal, “exceeds industry precedent and the estimate of potential liability.”

At a news conference, Mr. Jagdeo, the vice president, criticized the ruling and called on Guyana’s courts to make “predictable” decisions. “We are playing in the big leagues now,” he said. “We are not a backwater country where you can do whatever you want and get away with it.”

To Melinda Janki, the lawyer handling most of the activists’ suits and one of the few local lawyers willing to take on the oil companies, the question is whether Exxon Mobil can get away with doing whatever it wants. She helped shape some of Guyana’s strongest environmental laws. “Even though this is a massive oil company,” she said, “they still have to obey the law. The rule of law is the rule of law.”

The dissidents are deploying the law in their fight against the oil giant and the government, but with billions on the line, they’re also combating the currents of public opinion.

A fossil fuel economy in a changing world

For all the misery wrought by sugar during the colonial era, its legacy as an economic powerhouse lingers in local memory.

In Patentia, the village closest to Wales, where I attended first grade, laid-off sugar workers remember the estate as the center of the community. When its 1,000 workers lost their jobs, thousands more were sent reeling, as businesses from rum shops to mom-and-pop groceries folded.

The Guyana Sugar Corporation, then the country’s largest employer, eliminated a third of its work force, leaving about a fifth of the population coping with the effects of unemployment.

The timing of the closures, a year after the oil discovery, raised hopes that the petroleum industry might somehow fill the void. Seven years after the closures, however, most sugar workers haven’t found new jobs. Certainly, very few are employed by the petroleum industry.

Their struggle raises a crucial question for Guyana as it wrestles with the transition from the old economy to the new: How can Guyanese without the skills or education for petroleum jobs benefit? Nested within that quandary ticks another: What if the new economy isn’t so new? What if its petroleum-driven vision of progress is actually already outdated?

Thomas Singh, a behavioral economist who founded the University of Guyana’s Green Institute, has argued for transforming the still-active sugar industry’s waste into cellulosic ethanol, a cutting-edge biofuel. But Mr. Sharma, the energy agency head, says the industry is too small for its cane husks to power very much. Some of the jackpot from Norway for carbon offsets has been earmarked for eight small solar farms, but Mr. Sharma, who drives an electric car and has solar panels at his house, maintains that solar energy is too expensive to be a primary power source, despite arguments to the contrary . The giant hydroelectric project the Norway deal was supposed to fund, powered by a waterfall, has long been stalled.

What dominates the local imagination now is oil and gas. During my stay in Guyana, I kept hearing the calypso song “ Not a Blade of Grass ” on the radio. Written in the 1970s as a patriotic rallying cry and a stand against Venezuela, which threatened to annex two-thirds of Guyana, it has made a comeback with a new cover version. (So, too, have Venezuela’s threats .) The lyrics, to an outsider’s ear, sound like an anthem against Exxon Mobil: “When outside faces from foreign places talk about takin’ over, we ain’t backin’ down.” But in Guyana, it has been invoked recently to assert the nation’s right to pump its own oil. The voices against drilling, however outspoken, remain isolated; the more passionate debate is over whether Guyana should renegotiate its contract to get a bigger take of the oil proceeds.

Oil is seen as such a boon that even questioning how it’s regulated can be branded unpatriotic. Journalists, academics, lawyers, workers at nongovernmental organizations and even former E.P.A. employees confided their fear of being ostracized if they spoke against petroleum.

Since becoming an adult, I’ve returned to Guyana every few years to research the country’s past and its legacies. During this recent trip, an elder statesman I interviewed told me that it was time I moved back permanently. The thought points to a hope, reawakened by oil, that Guyana can reclaim its lost people. But from my recent trips back to the country, it’s hard to tell now what Guyana is becoming, and who will thrive there as it evolves.

The house my family lived in on the Wales Estate still stands. It has been freshly painted and refurbished, with a daunting sign outside threatening trespassers with closed-circuit television, dogs and drone surveillance. It has passed into private hands. Exactly who owns it is a matter of speculation. The rumor in Patentia? A former sugar worker from Wales repeated it to me: “Exxon owns that house.”

Do you have a connection to Guyana?

It’s still early days in Guyana’s transformation, and the events unfolding in Guyana will have a notable impact worldwide. We’d like to hear your perspectives on where the country is heading. We especially want to engage Guyanese people and those with family or ancestral connections to the country.

The Headway initiative is funded through grants from the Ford Foundation, the William and Flora Hewlett Foundation and the Stavros Niarchos Foundation (SNF), with Rockefeller Philanthropy Advisors serving as a fiscal sponsor. The Woodcock Foundation is a funder of Headway’s public square. Funders have no control over the selection, focus of stories or the editing process and do not review stories before publication. The Times retains full editorial control of the Headway initiative.

Gaiutra Bahadur is the author of “Coolie Woman: The Odyssey of Indenture.” She teaches English and journalism as an associate professor at Rutgers University in Newark.

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