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They Sold Everything to Go on a 3-Year Cruise. How It All Unraveled.

The Life at Sea cruise was supposed to be the ultimate bucket-list experience: 382 port calls worldwide over 1,095 days. The only thing missing was a trip-worthy ship.

By Ceylan Yeginsu

Kara and Joe Youssef sold their two apartments, withdrew their life savings, gave up most of their belongings and, in late October, set out for Istanbul for the trip of a lifetime: a three-year cruise around the world, scheduled to depart Nov. 1.

But in late November, after months of behind-the-scenes chaos, the Youssefs were stuck in Istanbul, with the cruise company canceling the trip. It did not have a ship that could handle the journey.

The Turkish company, Miray Cruises, had announced the cruise, called Life at Sea , in March. It claimed it would be the longest cruise ever — 382 port calls over 1,095 days — and a community at sea, with opportunities to explore the globe. Starlink internet and a business center would allow passengers to work remotely.

The cruise seemed ideal for a post-pandemic era, targeting people longing for an escape. With fares starting at $90,000 for an inside cabin and going up to $975,000 for a suite, the trip even seemed like a bargain to some prospective passengers, cheaper than living three years in many cities.

Within the first month of sales, more than half of the ship’s 400 cabins had been reserved. But putting together a cruise of this magnitude is a monumental task, requiring a ship large enough to carry hundreds of people, docking rights around the world and secure funding.

Like a high-seas version of the Fyre Festival, which promised a luxury music concert in the Bahamas and delivered cold sandwiches and makeshift tents, the cruise imploded. It has left people, like the Youssefs, frustrated and confused. Despite promised refunds, only a small portion of the money has been returned so far.

In an interview in December, Vedat Ugurlu, the owner of Miray, blamed a lack of financing and interest for the cruise’s cancellation.

“We tried everything to find a solution, but at the end of the day we couldn’t get the investors and we couldn’t sell enough cabins,” he said.

That has left Ms. Youssef, 36, a former humanitarian worker from Ohio, and her husband sitting in Istanbul with three suitcases and a carry-on, waiting for a refund of $80,000.

“They kept leading us on, making us hold out hope until the very last minute, just days before we were supposed to depart,” she said. “We sold everything we have to make this dream happen. We feel completely defeated.”

A big dream, but no ship to sail on

In June 2022, as the cruise industry was recovering from its pandemic shutdown, Mikael Petterson, an entrepreneur based in Miami, had an idea for a three-year cruise. Long-term cruises are not unheard-of, but they usually last a year at most, because of the logistics involved.

Mr. Petterson had plans to hit destinations all over the world. What he did not have was a ship. Through a broker, he was introduced to Miray International, which had been offering voyages and cruise-operation services since 1996.

Mr. Ugurlu, the owner of Miray, suggested the MV Gemini. He had acquired the 400-cabin, 1,074-passenger vessel in 2019, and had mainly used it for excursions between Turkey and the Greek islands.

Mr. Petterson couldn’t afford to buy the ship, so instead the two groups joined forces. He would do the marketing while Miray took care of operations.

In November 2022, Mr. Petterson signed a three-month contract to develop their new brand: Life at Sea Cruises. He had not seen the Gemini, but said that he trusted Miray’s nearly 30 years of experience.

Kendra Holmes, then vice president for business development strategy at Miray, said the company had not only the vessel but a budget of about $10 million to refurbish it for such a long cruise. It also had the experience and staff required, she said.

Mr. Petterson visited Turkey in December 2022 and saw the Gemini, but said his focus was on design and creating renderings for marketing. He planned to carry out a technical inspection later, he said.

“The cabin configuration was perfect for the pricings and affordability we were marketing,” he said.

On March 1, 2023, Life at Sea began selling space on the cruise, drawing millions of clicks to a newly created website. “It just blew up, and we could barely keep up,” Mr. Petterson recalled.

Many of the prospective passengers had never been on a cruise. Keri Witman, 56, a marketing executive from Cincinnati, was looking for a change, a new community and adventure.

She liked the ability to travel while continuing to work. “This seemed like the perfect opportunity,” she said.

Ms. Witman was one of the first to book in April. She asked a lawyer to look into the company and, after finding no red flags, placed a $5,000 deposit for her $185,120 cabin and put her house up for sale.

Refueling concerns: Is this the right ship?

When Mr. Petterson returned to the Gemini in April, questions were raised about the ship and its itinerary. Could it even hold enough fuel to sail between some of the more distant ports? In an audio note sent to his team, Robert Dixon, the itinerary planner, said he was denied access to the engine room and was told by an engineer that the vessel could not hold enough fuel to cross the Atlantic Ocean on schedule. He also raised concerns about a planned crossing in the South Pacific.

“Even if you spend another $10 million on that ship, I don’t think it is enough to do what we want to do,” Mr. Dixon said in the recording. He declined to be interviewed.

Beyond that, there were questions about Gemini’s size. If the cruise sold out its 1,074 capacity, would there be enough space for people to lounge or work, as many of them planned to do, for three years?

A pizza shop in Orlando

Amid questions about the Gemini, tensions started to build. Mr. Petterson’s team complained that it could not process credit card transactions and lacked an escrow account to secure deposits, as is common in the United States.

Miray had expected the sales team to collect the full fare upfront, but asking for hundreds of thousands of dollars at once was prohibitive. Mr. Petterson introduced an installment plan, which helped boost sales, but caught Miray unprepared. And there was no account in the United States for the sales team to use as it secured reservations.

The head of Miray, Mr. Ugurlu, owned a pizza parlor in Orlando, Fla., and Mr. Petterson said the company asked him to deposit the initial payments into the shop’s account. According to Ms. Holmes, that was suggested as a temporary solution.

Miray pursued other ways to accept payments, including the use of Square, the online payment platform, but after Miray had a dispute with Square, Mr. Petterson, concerned at the lack of secure ways to hold deposits, asked the company to refund all the clients’ deposits. Worried that the cruise was in jeopardy, passengers canceled reservations for at least 25 cabins.

‘We felt very nervous’

In May, amid the turmoil, the Youssefs attended a webinar for prospective passengers, but heard nothing about payment issues. The couple was assured, even on another ship, that the cruise would depart on Nov. 1. On May 6, they put down a $5,000 deposit and were told that a 25 percent payment was due on June 7.

By then, Mr. Petterson had left the company. The internal corporate squabbling became public on the app and Facebook page created for the cruise. Mr. Petterson told passengers that Life at Sea was dismantled, and that Miray was refusing to answer critical questions. He urged passengers to complain to U.S. maritime authorities.

Ms. Holmes, of Miray, portrays Mr. Petterson as the loser in a power struggle. “It got to the point where somebody can’t be the captain, so they try to sink the whole ship,” she said. She became chief executive of Life at Sea and began working to reassure passengers.

Confusion and panic set in among the passengers, many of whom had already started uprooting their lives. “We felt very nervous, first sitting through one webinar with the team that left, then with Kendra Holmes,” Ms. Youssef recalled.

But in the weeks that followed, Ms. Youssef said she felt more comfortable as Ms. Holmes and her team hosted daily webinars focusing on getting a new ship.

“Kendra was very convincing and dedicated,” Ms. Youssef said, noting that “she was very realistic, whereas Mikael had promised us the sun and the moon.”

In a webinar on May 31, Ms. Holmes said that the company had decided not to set up an escrow account. She said that it would use another method of protecting passenger deposits, a bond filed with the Federal Maritime Commission, a U.S. agency that helps to regulate ocean transportation. But the bond was never filed.

A new ship and the scramble for investors

In early July, Life at Sea announced that “due to unprecedented demand,” it had acquired a larger 627-cabin ship — to be named the MV Lara. In actuality, the company had put down a deposit and was negotiating to buy the Lara with the help of investors, at a cost Mr. Ugurlu later put at between $40 million and $50 million.

At that time, Mary Rader, 68, a retired social worker from Westchester County, N.Y., asked a travel agency to look into Miray Cruises and was told it was reputable. When a couple offered to transfer their cabin to her at a discounted rate, she took the opportunity, withdrawing $80,000 from her retirement savings.

Ms. Rader made two payments, $50,000 and $35,000, but said she never received a receipt and the couple never received a refund. She eventually got a boarding pass, but on the cruise app, she and the couple were listed in the same cabin.

“This is when I started to see all the red flags, but I was trapped because I had already made the payments,” she said.

In September, the Youssefs sold their apartment to keep up with their cruise payments; others started applying for visas, shipping belongings to Istanbul and making arrangements for their pets.

At that point, although only 111 of the ship’s 627 cabins had been sold, passengers who had signed up were assured that the ship would sail, even with as few as two passengers.

On Sept. 26, the day the payment was due to secure the Lara, Ms. Holmes received a call from Miray’s owner, Mr. Ugurlu, saying the lead investor had dropped out, but that he was working on other candidates. After receiving some cancellation requests, Ms. Holmes posted in the cruise app that, according to the contract’s terms, passengers who canceled now would only receive a 10 percent refund.

By Oct. 27, only days before the cruise’s scheduled departure — and with 30 passengers in Istanbul, ready to board — the company announced the trip had been delayed to Nov. 11 and would depart from Amsterdam. Days later, the departure was postponed again, to Nov. 30.

On Nov. 16, Ms. Youssef learned from a newspaper that the Lara had been acquired by another company. “We were frustrated and felt stuck in limbo, with no information to go on but what we discovered on our own,” she said. Ms. Holmes resigned from Miray the same day.

On Nov. 19, Mr. Ugurlu issued a statement saying that investors had pulled out because of the unrest in the Middle East; the next day Miray confirmed that the cruise was canceled.

Waiting for refunds

A day later, passengers were asked to sign an agreement with Miray, which would spread refund repayments over three months, from December to February. The first deadline passed on Dec. 22, with only some passengers getting any money. Miray said that the delay was caused by banks’ requesting extra documentation.

The Youssefs said on Dec. 28 that they had still not received their refund. For the past month they have been living in a hotel in Istanbul paid for by the cruise company.

“We could soon be homeless,” Ms. Youssef said.

Miray, Ms. Holmes and Mr. Petterson are now separately working on other three-year cruises, to launch next year.

Ms. Rader, the retired social worker, is not hopeful. “I have received nothing yet, but I did not expect to,” she said. “My guess is that the company will be shut down or restructured, and anything I put in cash will never get paid out.”

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2023 .

Ceylan Yeginsu is a travel reporter. She was previously a correspondent for the International desk in Britain and Turkey, covering politics; social justice; the migrant crisis; the Kurdish conflict, and the rise of Islamic State extremism in Syria and the region. More about Ceylan Yeginsu

Come Sail Away

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Icon Class Ships: Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas has been a hit among cruise goers. The cruise line is adding to its fleet of megaships ,  but they have drawn criticism from environmental groups.

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 Icon of the Seas: Our reporter joined thousands of passengers on the inaugural sailing of Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas . The most surprising thing she found? Some actual peace and quiet .

Th ree-Year Cruise, Unraveled:  The Life at Sea cruise was supposed to be the ultimate bucket-list experience : 382 port calls over 1,095 days. Here’s why  those who signed up are seeking fraud charges  instead.

TikTok’s Favorite New ‘Reality Show’:  People on social media have turned the unwitting passengers of a nine-month world cruise  into  “cast members”  overnight.

Dipping Their Toes: Younger generations of travelers are venturing onto ships for the first time . Many are saving money.

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Our mission is to serve the 50+ traveler who's ready to cross a few items off their bucket list.

3-Year Cruise Itinerary at Sea Miray | Intended Rute, Expected Costs and 2024

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Note: The Travel Awaits team regularly updates content to provide the latest, and most accurate information to our readers. The updated content in this article may not reflect the views or opinions of the original author.

If your goal has been to see the world, this may be the way to do it. Life at Sea Cruises is setting sail for the world’s first — and only — three-year world cruise, visiting 135 countries and seven continents. 

“Life at Sea Cruises offers the ultimate bucket list cruise without having to sacrifice the comforts of home,” says Irina Strembitsky, director of sales & marketing at Life at Sea Cruises. “It’s your home at sea with the world as your backyard.”

About Life At Sea Cruises

Life at Sea Cruises is owned by Miray International , which has been bringing unique cruising experiences since 1996. It owns and operates the MV Gemini throughout the Aegean Sea, and the vessel Amor , which gives dinner and entertainment river cruises.

3-Year Cruise Itinerary at Sea Miray

The 130,000-mile journey begins on November 1st , 2023, from Istanbul , with pickups in Barcelona and Miami. The MV Gemini will visit 375 ports, allowing travelers to spend multiple days in some to explore. 

This ultimate bucket list cruise will take passengers to South America and Antarctica visiting 11 countries in 98 days. You’ll be able to explore cities, glaciers, and ice formations. 

For 67 days, the ship will explore the Caribbean and Central America with 29 destinations including Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, and the ancient Mayan ruins of Mexico and Belize. 

In North America and Hawaii, 98 days give you the chance to explore landscapes in Alaska, stunning beaches, interesting cultures, and go on adventures. 

On this sea cruise, you will visit 23 destinations including ancient temples and vibrant cities in northern Asia. Stops in Tokyo, Seoul, Jeju Island, and Shanghai give plenty of time to explore over 70 days. 

While on the longest leg of the journey for 206 days in the South Pacific and Australia, you’ll visit Sydney and Melbourne, the beaches of Fiji, the mountains of New Zealand, and the rainforests of Papua New Guinea. 

Visit the ruins of Angkor Wat while sailing the South China Sea and Serengeti, Zanzibar, and Madagascar in southern and western Africa. You’ll spot big game on a safari and experience local culture in ancient cities. 

In Europe, you’ll sail from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean visiting 38 countries and exploring art, historic monuments, and rich culture. 

‘MV Gemini’ Amenities 

It might seem hard to imagine living on a ship for three years, but the amenities on the MV Gemini make it possible. It has 400 cabins and room for up to 1,074 people. It has world-class dining, onboard entertainment, activities, and modern workspace facilities, which include a first-of-its-kind business center with 14 offices, a lounge, and a business library. 

There will also be a 24-hour, on-call hospital, which will include free medical visits, learning and enrichment classes, and opportunities to volunteer. 

“Professionals need connectivity, the right amenities, and the functionality to perform their jobs. There is no other cruise product that offers this sort of flexibility to their customers,” says Mikael Petterson, managing director of Life at Sea Cruises. 

Cabins range from 130 square feet for Virtual Inside and Oceanview staterooms to 260 square feet for Balcony suites. Cruisers can enjoy a state-of-the-art wellness center, sundeck, swimming pool, and plenty of dining options. 

Cost To Cruise The World 

The three-year Life at Sea Cruises offers a starting price of $29,999 per year. Passengers have payment options from $2,499 per month. There is also the possibility that travelers can get additional tax benefits when working as international residents aboard the ship.

This cruise has been canceled . 

2024 Update

Why was life at sea’s 3-year cruise cancelled.

The  MV Gemini cruise ship was scheduled to set sail on November 30, with the original departure date having been rescheduled several times.

However, less than two weeks before its maiden voyage, Life at Sea has acknowledged to anxious passengers that there is no ship and that the once-in-a-lifetime trip has been canceled or ‘‘postponed’’, according to the company.

Miray Cruises said that anyone requesting a refund will get one and that it will reimburse travel expenses related to the cruise. The cruise company also claims it is planning a similar trip in 2024.

Future Still Looks Bright for Multy-Year Cruises in 2024

About a month after Life at Sea Cruises canceled its debut three-year voyage, Villa Vie Residences company upped the stakes by announcing plans to sail the world in 3.5 years. 

The price starts at $89 per day and includes food, laundry service, weekly housekeeping, and internet service. At an added charge you’ll get spa and bar services, and shore excursions. 

The ship will feature eight decks that will house three restaurants, a communal kitchen, a large pool with four Jacuzzis, a business center, and space for entertainment.

What Happened With Life at Sea’s 3-Year Cruise?

Life at Sea Cruises announced canceling its three-year voyage in November 2023 because the cruise company couldn’t secure a ship after plans had already been delayed several times. 

Is Miray Cruises Still Planning a 3-Year Cruise in 2024?

It’s quite possible. Miray Cruises owner Vedat Ugurlu said in a statement that the cruise wasn’t canceled but postponed until May 2024. He also stated that the reason for this postponement is the need for a bigger vessel capacity of more than 600 cabins.

What Did the Life at Sea’s 3-Year World Cruise Itinerary Looked Like?

The original itinerary was supposed to last 1,095 days, starting from Istanbul and Europe and then heading to South America and the Caribbean. The voyage would continue through the Panama Canal before visiting the U.S. West Coast, Hawaii, and Alaska and then heading west across the Pacific.

What UNESCO World Heritage Sites Can Be Visited on Life at Sea’s 3-Year World Cruise?

During the cruise of the seven continents, the passengers would see the pyramids of Giza in Egypt, Machu Picchu in Peru, the Great Wall of China, Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer statue, and India’s Taj Mahal.

Does Any Other Cruise Company Offer a 3-Year World Cruise?

Yes, Villa Vie Residences, plans to sail the world in three and a half years, after purchasing a 924-passenger ship that is expected to launch in May. The MS Breamer ship will undergo a renovation that will begin early in 2024 and take roughly eight weeks to complete.

Allison spent almost 20 years of her career as a TV news anchor. She’s covered everything from political conventions to Super Bowl LV to hurricanes and, most recently, the pandemic. She is a two-time Emmy award-winning journalist. She's been recognized for her work nationally and regionally by organizations including the Associated Press, the Society of Professional Journalists, and the Florida Association of Broadcast Journalists.

Would You Spend Three Years Living on a Cruise Ship?

Some enthusiasts are selling their homes in preparation, while others have balked at the risks

Christopher Parker

Daily Correspondent

More than 100 countries. All seven continents. Three years. One boat. 

For some, the opportunity to spend 36 continuous months at sea sounds like a dream come true. When Life at Sea Cruises announced plans for the trip earlier this year, bookings started rolling in immediately—even at the balcony cabin rate of almost $600,000 in total. 

“I sold my home in southern Florida, and I have been steadily selling most of my things. It’s a great feeling to not be encumbered by things, and there’s a certain freedom to it,” passenger Meredith Shay wrote in an opinion piece for the  Guardian in April . 

But others balked at the idea, and the hurdles that Miray Cruises, which operates Life at Sea Cruises, faced in the months after announcing the trip drove some initial enthusiasts away. Now, after some setbacks, the trip is officially back on schedule, with the company settling on a larger ship that will set sail on November 1. 

Passengers will spend the trip aboard the MV Lara , which was built in 2003 and currently operates under a different name for a different cruise line. It boasts 627 cabins with enough space to hold 1,266 passengers. 

But for this trip, only 532 of those cabins will be occupied, so the ship won’t feel too crowded, as Kendra Holmes, CEO of Miray Cruise, tells Julia Buckley of  CNN . “My big focus is on public spaces,” she adds. “You don’t want to be cooped up in a cabin for three years.”

On board, passengers will have access to a pool, gym, spa and other facilities; the ship will also host activities like dance lessons and movie screenings. Over the course of three years, passengers will get the chance to visit a lengthy list of attractions, including the Colosseum in Rome, the Taj Mahal in India, the Great Wall of China and Machu Picchu in Peru, among others. 

“Our longer port times truly empower residents to make the most of their time in each port,” Holmes tells Condé Nast Traveler ’s Rachel Chang. “Days-long port times mean that residents can get the most out of each city we visit.”

The logistical hurdles involved in spending so much time at sea—not to mention the financial ones—have resulted in some forfeited deposits, according to Holmes.

“We had a few people trying to sell their houses and weren’t successful. A lot thought, ‘Yeah, I can totally do that,’ and then realized, ‘I can’t afford to take three years off,’” she tells CNN . 

The Lara wasn’t always the planned vessel for this journey—which led to some of the thorniest issues of the planning process. In May, around 22 team members handling the voyage quit Miray Cruises over concerns about the ship. Those who left included Mikael Petterson, the former managing director, as well as the chief technology officer and the director of sales and marketing.

Petterson claims that the first ship, a Miray-owned boat called the MV Gemini , wouldn’t be up for the trip. “We have dozens of emails, recordings and messages suggesting the Gemini could not perform the itinerary as advertised,” he tells CNN.

The team that left Miray formed their own group, Villa Vie Residences , which is now planning a rival multi-year, round-the-globe journey. Miray has filed a lawsuit against Petterson on four counts, including defamation, over his comments. Petterson has indicated his plan to countersue. 

The internal turmoil has scared off some passengers, even though the plans to use the Gemini have been scrapped in favor of the Lara . 

“I don’t really care who is right or wrong. I’m allergic to chaos,” Sharon Lane, a retired high school teacher, told  CNN ’s Tamara Hardingham-Gill in May. “Going was a huge calculated risk to begin with. Now, it’s far too risky for my liking.” 

But bookings remain high, according to Holmes, with nearly 40 percent of rooms sold so far. The company is hoping remote workers will sign on; the ship will offer high-speed internet, a business center and the option to rent private office space.

“The demand for long-term extended cruises has been growing in popularity in recent years,” Holmes tells Condé Nast Traveler . “This, coupled with more people able to work remotely and the increased cost of home ownership and renting showcased an opportunity to offer travelers the chance to embark on an adventure—except, in our case, the vacation doesn't have to end.”

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Christopher Parker | READ MORE

Christopher Parker is a journalist covering history, conservation, education and other topics. His work has been featured in America magazine, Notre Dame  magazine, the Los Angeles Times and the Berkshire Eagle . 

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Around the world in 3 years

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A journey through world's cultures and arts.

Embark on a journey of cultural discovery as you experience the art, music, and traditions of destinations around the world. From local festivals and performances to workshops and classes led by experts, our cultural excursions offer a unique and immersive way to explore the world's rich tapestry of cultures.

Hidden Treasures

Unveil the world's hidden wonders.

Explore the world's lesser-known destinations and uncover hidden treasures on our unique cruises. From picturesque villages to secluded beaches, you'll experience the world like never before.

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Take part in a variety of activities and excursions, from Guided Tours and Land Adventures to Snorkel Tours and Kayaking. Make unforgettable memories and enjoy lasting connections with your new friends and neighbors

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This 3-year cruise around the world is called off, leaving passengers in the lurch

Bill Chappell

When the Life at Sea cruise line failed to purchase the German cruise ship AIDAaura, seen here in 2020, its plans for a worldwide cruise embarking in November began to unravel. Marit Hommedal/NTB Scanpix/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

When the Life at Sea cruise line failed to purchase the German cruise ship AIDAaura, seen here in 2020, its plans for a worldwide cruise embarking in November began to unravel.

They were promised the world. But cruise company Life at Sea recently told customers who bought passage on a three-year voyage that rather than visiting 140 countries, their trip was called off.

Those customers are now scrambling to make new plans for where they will live for the next three years — and to extract refunds from the cruise line. The intense fallout is drawing comparisons to infamous debacles such as the Fyre Festival — the "luxury" music festival that was more like a "disaster relief area."

Here's what to know about the cruise around the world that was called off

What was promised? The world.

The original itinerary mapped 1,095 days of travel, heading from Istanbul to Europe and then to South America and the Caribbean. Passengers would then pass through the Panama Canal before seeing the U.S. West Coast, Hawaii and Alaska and then head west across the Pacific.

"We are going to be following summer the entire time that we go around the world," then-Life at Sea CEO Kendra Holmes told prospective passengers in a Zoom webinar in September.

$73,499-Per-Guest World Cruise Sells Out In Less Than 3 Hours

Voyagers were to see seven continents, visiting 140 countries. They would spend roughly 300 days at sea, 795 days at port and have 413 overnight port stays, Chief Operating Officer Ethem Bayramoglu of Miray Cruises, the Turkish parent company of Life at Sea, said in that online session.

Along the way, they would explore wonders of the world, visit UNESCO World Heritage sites and have plentiful chances to go diving and snorkeling, the company said.

The three-year voyage was to begin on Nov. 1, departing from Istanbul. Some passengers reportedly only learned of the cancellation after arriving in Turkey.

What are customers saying?

"Some people read the headlines and think, 'Oh, that was a scam,' but I really did my homework before I put a deposit down," Keri Witman of Cincinnati told NPR. She had attorneys check the company's background, for instance.

Witman, who owns a marketing agency named Clever Lucy, was planning to work remotely aboard the ship, using its Starlink internet service. And as a single woman, she had been looking forward to exploring the world with a group.

"Having a like-minded community of people that all were interested in travel at the ready was really appealing to me," she said.

When the cruise missed its planned departure date, the company promised to resolve lingering issues. But after further delays, the trip was canceled.

Witman says the company has begun the refund process, accepting her requests for other expenses to be paid, from airfare to the costs of foreign visas. But some of her fellow customers seem more frustrated.

20 years ago, the supersonic passenger jet Concorde flew for the last time

"Still waiting for my refund. And now you've gone belly up?" a woman who identified herself as a Life at Sea customer said recently on the company's Instagram account . The woman, a retired educator, did not respond to NPR's message seeking further comment.

Former flight attendant Meredith Shay was looking forward to the trip as a centerpiece of her retirement.

"How did I feel about it?" Shay said in an interview on ABC's Good Morning America . "Devastated, disappointed, sad. I packed up my belongings, put them in storage, sent four boxes to Miray Cruises."

Witman says she also shipped boxes to have on the cruise, back in early October.

"I'm following them along on my AirTags today," she said. "They're on their way back."

How much did the Life at Sea cruise cost?

The cheapest packages started at $196,000 for a single traveler, and $231,000 for couples, according to the company's website . Costs ranged much higher for guests staying in premium rooms.

In exchange, passengers — or residents, as the company called them — were promised a long list of amenities, including an onboard hospital and doctor. Some cabins could host cats; travelers were also promised high-speed internet, free dining, alcohol and laundry service, and "enrichment seminars."

Terms of the deal help illuminate the would-be passengers' financial and logistical plight. Life at Sea set initial deposits at 30% of the overall cost. Under its 12-month payment plan, the first draw came due one month ahead of the sail date.

And rather than portioning the cruise for sale in smaller stages, the company required customers to commit to the full three years.

"Our residents are changing their lives for this opportunity, and we are honored to be a part of their personal journeys," Holmes said in June .

A wide range of passengers had booked cabins.

"The age group is split pretty much between 35 and 85" years old, and the passengers included a large number of Americans, Holmes said.

The Two-Way

Paradise lost: luxury music festival turns out to be half-built scene of chaos, did the cruise line actually have a ship.

"In two days' time, we own this vessel," Life at Sea itinerary planner Robert Dixon said in late September , speaking in a promotional video from the bridge of a ship he called the "MV Lara."

But the company wasn't able to close that deal, and the ship in question — the 20-year-old AIDAaura — was instead sold in November to Celestyal, which specializes in Mediterranean cruises.

Miray's attempts to purchase the ship dragged on for weeks, and it eventually stalled after investors balked, according to a company message obtained by CNN and other outlets.

Environment

In warmer climate, a luxury cruise sets sail through northwest passage.

"If you're focused on the ship, this is not the journey for you," Holmes said in the September webinar. But two months later, she would leave her leadership post at Life at Sea and Miray, as plans for the ambitious cruise unraveled.

Holmes was trying to allay concerns about the quality of the vessel. But it seems that it was the company's focus, not the public's, that was the problem.

Warning flags went up earlier this year, when the company changed course from its initial plan to refit one of its ships, the MV Gemini. For the lengthy worldwide voyage, it planned to deploy the larger "MV Lara" — a ship that never materialized.

What does the cruise company say now?

It's complicated. On Sunday, Miray Cruises issued a statement in Turkish , denying that the cruise is canceled. Instead, the company said the voyage is postponed — and it blamed a lack of enough passenger bookings, rather than problems finding an appropriate ship.

But responding to a social media comment about that same statement, the company sought to clarify that its other operations are unaffected — and in doing so, it stated , "The cancellation in question is related to our 3-year world tour project."

The company said that anyone requesting a refund will get one, and that it will reimburse travel expenses related to the cruise. Miray also says it plans to mount a similar trip next year.

Witman, for one, says she's still interested in a worldwide cruise.

"There are two other companies that have been working on a similar concept" that have also run into delays, she said.

19-Hour London To Sydney 'Test Flight' Shows How To Make Long Hauls Tolerable

"I think one of them will make it happen in 2024," Witman said. "And I'm hopeful that it will, because I'd like to be on it. I still believe in the concept. I think it's a really perfect opportunity for me."

Despite the setback, Witman says she's been able to form connections with other would-be passengers, who have been keeping in touch via apps and group texts. Some of them are even making plans to travel together this winter.

"I don't regret at all going down this path," Witman said. "It moved me forward in a way that I wouldn't have done without this instigation. And I'm really thankful for it. I'm disappointed, but I'm ready to go for whatever opportunity comes up next."

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Former names: Celestyal Nefeli, Vision Star, Superstar Gemini, Cunard Crown Jewel

Cruise line Miray Life at Sea Cruises (Small Cruise Lines)

MV Gemini current position

MV Gemini current location is at Aegean Sea (coordinates 37.86700 N / 27.02778 E) cruising en route to Kusadasi. The AIS position was reported 7 minutes ago.

Specifications of MV Gemini

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MV Gemini Review

Review of mv gemini.

The 1992-built MS Gemini cruise ship (fka "Celestyal Nefeli", and previously as "Gemini" for the now-defunct Quail Travel Group) was launched as "Crown Jewel" for Crown Cruise Line (1984-founded/2001-defunct). The luxurious passenger liner features a unique yacht-like design, stylish lounges, cozy dining venues, open promenades. The boat was previously operated by Louis Cruises (rebranded in 2014 to Celestyal Cruises ).

The vessel (IMO number 9000687) is currently Bahamas- flagged (MMSI 311000160) and registered in Nassau .

The boat was last refurbished by Celestyal in 2016. During the drydock in 2022 (by Miray International) the hull's color was changed from white to blue.

IMPORTANT : On June 29, 2023, Miray Cruises announced that its new travel brand's ("Life at Sea Cruises") 3-year-long World Voyage (roundtrip from Istanbul Turkey leaving on November 1st/2023) would be on AIDAaura (renamed MV Lara) instead of the initially scheduled MV Gemini. Eventually (in November 2023), the entire project was canceled.

History - construction and ownership

Crown Jewel/Gemini is the largest cruise ship ever built in Spain (at Union Navale de Levante shipyard in Valencia ). Crown Cruise Line used the vessel for cruises from the USA ( NYC ) to the Caribbean, Bermuda and Canada. In 1993, after being chartered to Cunard Line , the ship was renamed "Cunard Crown Jewel". In 1995, it was sold to Star Cruises , renamed "SuperStar Gemini" and homeported in Singapore .

Delivered to Crown Cruise Line in July and inaugurated in September 1992, Crown Jewel operated on roundtrips from the USA (homeport NYC New York ) visiting port cities in New England and Canada. During the inaugural 1992 season, the boat also offered Panama Canal voyages (October-November) followed by the Caribbean winter deployment based on homeporting in West Palm Beach (Florida) . The 7-night itineraries visited destinations in Martinique and Saint Bartholemy.

Fun fact is that during the "Barcelona 1992 Olympic Games" (July 25-Aug 9) and the "2012 Summer Paralympics" (Aug 29-Sept 9) the liner was chartered as a floating hotel.

In September 2007, Star Cruises announced that SuperStar Gemini had been sold and in December 2008 left the fleet. Reportedly the new shipowner was Jewel Owner Ltd (part of the Bahamas-based Clipper Group of Denmark), which in 2009 chartered the vessel to a new operator. In 2008, Clipper Group announced that it would rename the vessel "Vision Star" and lease it to Vision Cruceros (Spanish brand/defunct since March 2009).

In early-2009, Mediterranean Classic Cruises was booking voyages in the Aegean Sea aboard Vision Star. However, these sailings were canceled due to the non-availability of Vision Star (from Vision Cruceros). Instead, SuperStar Gemini was renamed Gemini, and until 2011 had a Spanish operator, Quail Travel Group. Since the bankruptcy of Quail Travel in 2011, the cruise ship Gemini was laid up at Tilbury Docks (Essex England) awaiting charter or sale.

In July 2020, Miray International started its own brand ("Miray Cruises") by a multi-year chartering of MV Gemini (inaugural cruise for Miray was scheduled for August 31st).

Prior to the Life at Sea Cruises service, MV Gemini was scheduled for an extensive drydock refurbishment . The drydocking project included the addition of a Business Center (2x meeting rooms and 14x offices/available for rent), Library, Relaxation Lounge, Cafe Bar. The Business Center is fitted with large LED screens, modern audio-video equipment, printers, Wi-Fi Internet, and is served by dedicated assistance staff.

Decks and Cabins

Celestyal Nefeli/Gemini ship has a total of 400 staterooms (max capacity 1074 passengers) and 8 decks (5 with cabins). Of all Celestyal Nefeli cabins, 10 are Suite-grade accommodations each with a private balcony. The ship has a total of 277 oceanview staterooms (including the 10 suites) and 123 interior cabins.

Of all outside accommodations, 12 are Executive Suites and 31 are Junior Suites. Most Executive Suites have private step-out balconies. Junior Suites are with extra storage space.

Shipboard facilities and amenities

With two eating outlets to choose from, cruisers might enjoy the sumptuous Greek and Mediterranean kitchen onboard as well as 24-hour room service. The Aegean Restaurant is the main dining room onboard Celestyal Nefeli. It is complimentary, features Greek cuisine specialties, and also has a dinner a la carte menu. The MDR restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Leda Casual Dining is a buffet-style venue for alfresco dining with an outdoor seating area. Continental Breakfast (7-8:30 am) and Afternoon Tea (4-5 pm) are also served here.

The boat's standout feature is the 5-deck high, glass-walled Atrium with windows overlooking the sea. Onboard facilities include 5 bars, 4 lounges, a swimming pool, an outdoor Jacuzzi/spa pool, Oscar's Beauty Center, Casino Bar & Lounge, Business Center.

Onboard enrichment programming includes guest lectures and various classes.

The ship has a 24-hour Infirmary (on-call hospital) served by professional staff and operated with free medical visits.

Itineraries

Celestyal Nefeli's itinerary program offered Eastern Mediterranean voyages to ports in Greece and Turkey. The 7-day itineraries were out of Piraeus-Athens and Istanbul (overnight stay). From Izmir (Turkey) were offered Greek Islands cruises to Mykonos , Patmos , Rhodes , Crete (Chania) , Santorini and returning to Athens.

Next photo shows the Nefeli ship passing through Corinth Canal .

Miray Cruises Turkey specializes in Aegean Sea voyages (short break/3-4-night Greek Isles itineraries) leaving roundtrip from homeports Piraeus-Athens Greece and Cesme Turkey . The itineraries visit some of Greece's most popular islands ( Mykonos , Santorini , Syros ) plus Turkey (Cesme). Longer voyages additionally visit Rhodes .

Miray Cruises' MV Gemini ship charters are seasonal, in the period March-April through September-October.

During layup periods (winter months) the vessel remains docked at Port Keratsini (suburb of Athens City).

Miray Cruises 2022 program (May 15th thru Oct 20th) was based on Eastern Mediterranean voyages. MV Gemini's schedule included 3-day and 4-day itineraries (all roundtrips from Cesme) visiting the Greek islands Mykonos, Santorini, and Rhodes, and also Piraeus-Athens.

Miray Cruises 2023 program started on March 19th, out of Cesme. Traditionally, the schedule included 3-4-day Greek Islands roundtrips from Cesme and Piraeus. In the period February 19-March 18, the ship served as a hotel providing relief housing for homeless families after the Turkey-Syria 2023 earthquake (Feb 6th).

Photos of MV Gemini

MV Gemini ship related cruise news

Miray's Life at Sea Cruises announces industry's first 3-year World Voyage on MV Gemini

The industry's ever-longest/first 3-year World Voyage, offered on MV Gemini ship by Life at Sea Cruises (new travel brand launched by Miray...

Celestyal Cruises extends suspension of sailings until July 30

Celestyal Cruises is the latest passenger shipping company to extend cruise suspension due to the pandemic until July 30, 2020. Operations are...

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MV Gemini Wiki

For summer 2019 season, Turkey's largest tour agency Etstur chartered Celestyal Nefeli (Gemini) for roundtrips from homeport Izmir (Turkey) to Greece ( Syros Island , Mykonos Island , Santorini Island and Piraeus-Athens ). The seasonal ship charter offered 3- and 4-day itineraries starting May 31 (with a 2-day mini-cruise) and ending on September 8. Etstur's 3-day cruise prices started from EUR 230 / USD 260 per person (double occupancy).

The vessel (Union Naval Valencia yard/hull number 197) is powered by 4x Wartsila marine diesel engines (model 8R32E) with total power output 13,12 MW.

Note: In 2019, the ship's name (Celestyal Nefeli), MMSI (538003843) and registry/flag-state (Marshall Islands) were changed, respectively, to Gemini-Bahamas-311000160.

The vessel was launched (floated-out from drydock) on May 30, 1991, delivered (to the Panama-based Commodore Cruise Line) in May 1992 and immediately chartered (as hotel ship) during the Barcelona 1992 Olympic Games. On November 11, it left Barcelona for NYC New York . The inaugural cruise (from homeport NYC) departed on October 5.

In 1995, the ship was sold to Star Cruises , renamed "Superstar Gemini" and homeported in Singapore .

On November 19, 2007, the liner was sold to Jewel Owner Ltd but continued the Star Cruises service (under charter) through January 2009, when was renamed "Vision Star". In March, its flagstate was changed to Malta (registered in Valletta ). In April, it was renamed "Gemini" and chartered to Quail Travel Group (which bankrupted in August 2011).

In April-July 2012, the ship was chartered (as hotel ship) by Petrofac Ltd ( Jersey UK -registered oilfield services provider to the oil and gas industry). In November 2015, the vessel entered drydock at Besiktas Shipyard ( Istanbul, Turkey ).

In April 2016 through December 2017, the ship was chartered by Celestyal Cruises and renamed "Celestyal Nefeli". In January 2018 was renamed to "Gemini".

In May-October 2018 and 2019, MS Gemini was chartered to Etstur (Turkey-based travel agency and tour operator).

For 2019 was planned a seasonal charter to Blue World Voyages (2017-established, Miami -based wellness cruise line / new ) and to be operated as "Blue World One". However, the charter deal was not signed.

In 2020-H1 (first half) the cruise liner was layup in Port Piraeus (Keratsini, Athens) . In July 2020, Miray International started its own brand ("Miray Cruises") by a multi-year chartering of MV Gemini (inaugural cruise for Miray on August 31). Miray specialises in short Aegean Sea cruises (3-4-night Greek Isles itineraries) leaving roundtrip from homeports Piraeus and Cesme Turkey . The itineraries visit some of Greece's most popular islands ( Mykonos , Santorini , Syros ) plus Turkey (Cesme). Longer voyages additionally visit Rhodes . Since 2012, Miray International has been also involved with the Etstur's cruise shipping operations. The list of other Miray-managed cruise vessels also includes Louis Aura , Aegean Paradise , MS Delphin .

Miray Cruises 2021 charter of MV Gemini is planned for the period April through October.

Are Luxury Cruises Really Worth It?

With price tags that can be in the tens of thousands, luxury cruises aren’t cheap. a look at what’s included and how to pick the right one..

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Worth the splurge: the two-story Grand Wintergarden suite on Seabourn Venture .

Courtesy of Seabourn

While the term “luxury” is often thrown around and overused, the top-end luxury cruise lines really do deliver a five-star experience that’s akin to staying at a grand hotel—with the added bonus of all-inclusive pricing and a ship that brings you to multiple destinations during your stay.

When you book an ultra-luxury cruise, you can expect a carefully curated travel experience. Having sailed on dozens of luxury cruises the world over, I can attest that on these best-of-class vessels, you’ll enjoy high-quality design details, fine artwork, and all-you-can-consume champagne and caviar between visits to tony and lesser-known destinations. In addition, luxury cruise lines also focus on providing immersive and enriching programming that offers a more meaningful and richer understanding of the places and cultures you are visiting through expert-led lectures and guided tours. And the crew to passenger ratio is often as high as one crew member to every two guests, ensuring an elevated level of service.

For years the ultra-luxury end of cruising was limited to a small selection of top brands: Seabourn , Silversea , Regent Seven Seas Cruises , and Crystal , to name a few. But that’s changing. New brands are emerging such as Scenic and the more recently launched Explora Journeys and Atlas Ocean Voyages , each with their own nuances and expertise. (Scenic and Atlas are making a name for themselves in the expedition cruising space, for instance, while Explora promises a beautiful boutique cruising experience on a 900-plus passenger ship.) Luxury hotel companies (and even railway brands) are also getting in the game, with such well-recognized names as Ritz-Carlton , Four Seasons, Orient Express , and Aman all recently unveiling plans to offer a luxury cruise product to guests.

Natalya Leahy, who was named president of Seabourn last year, says the luxury cruise market is growing due to several factors, not the least of which is that there are more than 22 million people in the U.S. with a net worth of a million dollars or more. Well-heeled boomers are booking luxury cruises, but so are Millenials and even younger travelers.

Afar spoke with Leahy in Genoa, Italy, last summer, as the brand prepared to launch the 264-passenger Seabourn Pursuit , the second ultraluxury expedition ship in the Seabourn fleet, which is exploring remote destinations that include Antarctica and the Kimberley region of Australia.

We asked Leahy’s advice on what travelers should know before going on a luxury cruise—and added a few of our own tips as well.

The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s inaugural vessel, the 298-passenger Evrima (pictured), launched in late 2022, leading the charge for luxury resort names getting into the high-end cruise market.

Courtesy of Jack Hardy/Ritz Carlton Yacht Collection

How to pick the luxury cruise line that’s best for you

Leahy suggests starting out by asking your luxury cruising friends and acquaintances what lines they like. Word of mouth is frequently a factor in the luxury-end of cruising. “Our guests are our biggest ambassadors and bring many new guests onboard,” she says.

Once you get some ideas, or even if you don’t, consult with an expert. “In general, for luxury travel, it’s helpful to have either a travel advisor or, if you book directly with us, a personal cruise consultant,” she says. “It’s very helpful to have someone who is there to advise you.” (Here’s our complete list of travel advisors who are specialized in selling cruises .)

A luxury cruise should be a carefree vacation experience, given all the inclusions, Leahy says. She notes that “when you want to see the world and compare land travel to cruise travel, cruise is much easier to organize.”

But there are nuances—between cruise lines, types of accommodations, and even what is (and isn’t) included in the “all-inclusive” pricing (for instance, certain more exclusive excursions might be extra). This is where working with an expert comes in handy.

Leahy says she seeks advice even when she cruises, which is often with multiple family members or friends. “If I even attempt to organize it on land, I think we all would become ‘best enemies,’” she laughs. “I really believe travel advisors play an incredibly strategic role for us,” Leahy adds. “They know our brands.”

Two-thirds of Seabourn’s business comes through travel advisors, and on any given cruise, about half the guests have cruised with the line before and half are new to the brand—and often new to cruising—Leahy says.

When Explora Journeys launched last summer it became the newest player to enter the luxury cruising market with the 922-passenger Explora I .

Courtesy of Explora Journeys

The best luxury cruise lines

Luxury ships vary in size and destinations they visit as well as other factors such as what’s included in the cruise fare. For instance, is your transportation included? Wi-Fi? Are there any upcharges for specialty dining? Will you pay extra for excursions? Will you have a butler? Every brand has its bragging points.

Atlas Ocean Voyages

The newest cruise line in America, Atlas Ocean Voyages came onto the cruise scene in 2021 and has grown into a fleet of three, 198-passenger yacht-style expedition ships ( World Voyager , World Traveller , and World Navigator ). Atlas has become known for providing extreme comfort and luxury in some of the most extreme polar regions in the world. But it also sails it the warmer waters of the Mediterranean, where it offers immersive culture and culinary programming.

The resurrected Crystal Cruises , now owned and managed by high-end tour operating company Abercrombie & Kent and known simply as Crystal , consists of two ships, the 740-passenger Crystal Serenity and 606-passenger Crystal Symphony , both with complimentary Nobu restaurants aboard.

Explora Journeys

Explora Journeys , a new luxury line from shipping company MSC Group , launched its first, 922-passenger ship, Explora I , last summer with an extensive spa, four pools, and lush interior design details. Sister ship Explora II joins the fleet in September 2024.

Regent Seven Seas

Regent Seven Seas Cruises differentiates itself by including a lot in its fares—such as business-class airfare and unlimited shore excursions—on ships ranging from 490 to 750 passengers. The line launched its newest ship, the 750-passenger Seven Seas Grandeur , the latest of what Regent calls its “world’s most luxurious” ships, last November.

Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection

The famous hotel brand launched its first cushy yacht in 2022 . Aboard the 298-passenger Evrima , attractions include hotel-like suites and bartenders who are whizzes at creating personalized concoctions. The 456-passenger Ilma follows in September 2024.

The Seabourn fleet, with ships ranging from 458 to 600 guests, features complimentary fine dining. And the brand’s two expedition ships are outfitted with 24 Zodiacs and kayaks for exploration led by a 24-person expedition team, plus a six-passenger submarine for undersea views.

Australian expedition line Scenic has as many as 10 dining experiences onboard its intimate vessels and toys that include an eight-passenger submarine and state-of-the-art Airbus helicopters aboard its two 228-passenger expedition yachts.

Silversea ships range from 254 to 728 passengers, plus two smaller expedition ships, the 132-passenger Silver Explorer and 100-passenger Silver Origin . The line’s S.A.L.T. program focuses on local dining and drinking experiences, and all guests get butler service—on ships that include the recently launched 728-passenger Silver Nova .

Travelers can relax at sea in the new Aurora spa onboard the reborn Crystal ships.

Courtesy of Crystal

Make sure to choose the ship that’s right for you

Many people start off their vacation planning with the destination, but Leahy makes a case for the strong role the ship should play in your decision-making.

“The unique thing about cruising is your experience continues 24/7,” she says. “It doesn’t end with visiting the destinations. You step onboard and have this experience with fine dining and interaction with our cruise members and entertainment and shows and live music that continues the experience.”

Social media posts and cruise line websites provide clues to help you understand the environment on board specific brands, Leahy says, adding that you should check reviews and look for photos.

She says it’s not uncommon for guests to describe Seabourn ships as their “home away from home.”

Because you will be spending a considerable amount of time on the ship, just as you would when comparing land-based resorts you’ll also want to get an idea of what’s offered onboard in terms of bars, restaurants, lounges, gym and spa facilities, and entertainment. Also consider the amount of outdoor space, such as outdoor dining options, pools, bars, and other spots to catch sea views. Dig into the onboard programming as well to see if there will be talks, live shows, classes, and other offerings that cater to your interests.

How to decide on the right suite and whether to upgrade

Luxury ships in general are usually entirely or mostly made up of suite accommodations with features such as large bathrooms and walk-in closets. You’ll have ocean views and will likely have a balcony on these high-end vessels.

If you’re looking for more space, you might consider upgrading to a suite with a living room and a larger deck. Some luxury suites are apartment-size and come with amenities such as private outdoor hot tubs.

Cruise line websites generally do a good job in terms of providing descriptions, layouts, square footage, and photos of the various options, but a specialized travel advisor or consultant can help you assess your space needs.

Think about how much time you will be spending on the ship and in your suite versus off of the ship to help decide whether the upgrade will be worth the investment. If it’s a busy and active itinerary with daily port stops, it may not be. But if it’s a sailing with longer days at sea, having extra-plush digs could certainly pay off.

Start with a shorter cruise

While you can book luxury cruise itineraries for weeks or months, Leahy suggests before you go all out with a longer sailing you consider a test cruise to see if you will like the experience.

“I think it’s important to start cruising by trying for seven days whether the Caribbean, Alaska, or the Mediterranean,” she says. “They are bucket list destinations and yet they don’t commit you to being the first time on a ship for too long. It’s a great way to start cruising and experiencing.”

Don’t forget about the land-based experiences

Once you decide on a destination and what cruise line you want to try, and you book your suite, it’s important to start thinking about what land-based experiences you’d like to have at the various ports of call.

An advantage of cruising is that your cruise line will provide a selection of carefully curated choices for exploring the ports, for those who prefer not to do independent exploration.

And think about whether you want to extend your stay whether in your embarkation city or your final destination and whether the cruise line might be able to help with that. It’s not uncommon for cruise lines to offer pre- and post-cruising packages that include hotel stays and additional excursion options.

Luxury cruise lines like Seabourn are working to create “deeper and richer” land experiences, says Leahy.

Can’t decide where to cruise? We’ve rounded up our favorite luxury sailings in the Caribbean , Japan , along Norway’s fjords , to experience the beauty of Alaska , Northern Lights cruises , and more . And once you have put those final pieces into place, are booked and ready to go, we’ve also put together a guide on whether or not you should consider cruise insurance , our essential cruise packing list , and the ultimate guide to tipping on cruises —so that you can check off everything you might need (and need to know) before you sail away.

This story was originally published in August 2023, and was updated on August, 30, 2024, to include current information.

Get smarter at sea: Educational cruises and the travelers who love them

It's a sunny afternoon aboard the gleaming new 190-passenger Ocean Albatros expedition ship docked at Scrabster in northern Scotland. Passengers are gathered not at the bar or the pool, but in a lecture room, where Professor Donna Heddle of the University of the Highlands and Islands in Orkney is giving a lecture on Scottish history.

In her lilting brogue, she tells the assembled guests that William Wallace, the Scottish hero of Braveheart fame, stood nearly 7 feet tall; Scotland boasts the oldest national flag in Europe; and its monarchs traditionally ruled the people, not the land (as in Mary, Queen of Scots).

Such historical nuggets are just par for the course on this 12-day "The Hidden Coasts of Scotland: An Expedition on the Ocean Albatros" cruise sailing to the country's northern isles and highlands. It's one of Road Scholar's so-called Floating Campuses — fully chartered cruises where everyone on board participates in the expansive educational programming.

Forget pool parties, casinos or Broadway shows. Think college campus at sea — but for adults ages 50+, which is the target audience for Road Scholar, the educational tour company. The program capitalizes on the growing trend of deeply immersive and educationally enriching trips.

Indeed, Road Scholar is not alone in offering such educational cruises. Smithsonian Journeys, National Geographic Lindblad Expeditions and Aurora Expeditions are among others that do, too.

Does such an academically oriented trip seem dry and dull to you? Step aside because the academic atmosphere is not at all boring to this group of lifelong learners. They're on board not only to enjoy Scotland but also to expand their knowledge of the destination. And these PBS-watching globetrotters embrace the educational focus like eager apprentices.

Cruise ship turned classroom

With its captive audience, a cruise is an ideal learning environment, especially when the instruction enhances the port visits.

For example, to prepare for our visit to Orkney's Skara Brae, the "Scottish Pompeii" and best-preserved Neolithic settlement in Western Europe, lecturer Steve Ragnall shared a showstopping illustrated overview of the Neolithic period in Orkney and Shetland.

Sound boring? Not at all! Other lecture topics include Scottish history, language, literature and geography. My fellow passengers and I were riveted by every one.

Heddle and Ragnall, a maritime historian and amateur archaeologist, are the two lecturers on this education-first cruise, sharing the spotlight with a bird expert and geologist. All four impart their knowledge about Scotland as part of a program that also includes book club sessions and photography lessons.

In addition to twice daily lectures (during which some passengers even take notes!), the experts are on hand throughout the voyage for casual discussions, providing guests one-on-one opportunities to dig deeper into topics of interest.

Indeed, I frequently spot Heddle and Ragnall holding court over meals in one of the ship's two restaurants. They attract the passengers like groupies to rock stars.

"I really appreciate that when we're on excursions, Road Scholar mixes up which lecturer is with my group," says cruiser Wendy Baldwin from Indianapolis, fangirling just a bit over the trip's celebrities.

Even the evening entertainment is on point: showings of a BBC documentary on Scottish marine life and the comedy "Whisky Galore!" about Scottish islanders plundering cases of whisky from a stranded WWII ship. A local ceilidh band charms everyone one evening by performing and dancing to bagpipe-driven Gaelic folk music on board.

Related: Best cruises for seniors who love to travel by sea

Study abroad on a Floating Campus

What sets a Floating Campus apart from its educational cruise competitors?

For starters, "it's important to have everyone on board be part of the program … by taking over a whole ship (unlike other Road Scholar cruises)," says Chanelle Quealy, program operations manager for the Floating Campuses. "A big part is a sense of cohesion, things like the book club [we were given the book title along with an extensive reading list ahead of time] and photography instruction."

The 112 nametag-wearing Road Scholars on board this voyage are organized into five smaller color-coded groups, each with a dedicated leader, for the daily guided "field trips" that are time staggered to avoid crowding.

Unlike other educational cruises, those groups are further segregated by two activity levels — for those who are more or less active — which facilitates the participation of everyone in this older demographic. What's more, there are no choices of shore excursions like on a typical cruise. We all visit the same sites, but how we get there varies to accommodate those who are less nimble.

"That's (all) very unique," says Zoe Fox-Mailer, director of cruise program operations.

The program even has its own schoolroom-like "show and tell." (Remember those?) After the farewell dinner, we gather in circles by color-coded groups to share what we liked most about the experience.

Among the comments that stand out to me: "I loved how Steve's lectures brought history to life," and "This trip stimulates further research that we'll do at home." Call these cruisers nerds, if you will, but they're undeniably happy ones.

Another distinction is the itineraries, which tend toward the uncommon. On this Scotland sailing, for example, we're exploring the wild northern coastline and remote islands including the Orkneys, Shetlands and Outer Hebrides, speckled with world-class archaeological sites and castles. It's an unusual route of hard-to-visit destinations unless by ship.

"We focus on destinations you can't get to on land or by coach," says Fox-Mailer. Floating Campuses in 2024-2025 will also feature Corsica, Iceland, Lisbon to London and the "Ultimate UK" (England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland).

Related: Best European cruises: 6 ships that stand out across the pond

Who are the Road Scholars? Lifelong learners with wanderlust

While other cruises, notably expedition ones, also feature educational content, Road Scholar trips attract especially avid students.

"Road Scholar participants are ready and eager to learn," says Heddle, who lectures on other ships. "With other groups, they have more interest in being entertained."

Ragnell, who also lectures on other ships, agrees. "Road Scholars already know something about the subject so I don't have to dumb down. Yesterday was the most questions I've had on any ship. It became a real discussion."

Take Henry and Elaine Hurkholder from Meadville, Pennsylvania, who have participated in 15 Road Scholar trips. "I like to broaden my horizons and learn new things," says Henry.

"This is our first cruise where all the participants are Road Scholars, which is an advantage," says his wife, Elaine. "It's a little like being in school, but that's what we wanted."

"But you don't have to do the classes," Henry counters, noting there's ample free time, as well. Indeed, you could skip all the instruction. But why would you?

Related: The best adults-only cruises to try if you can't stand being around kids on vacation

Dione and Jim Mahoney from Columbia, Maryland, who are on their 19th Road Scholar trip, are also here for the enrichment. "I was surprised by how much I learned about Scotland," says Jim. "The lectures were unbelievable. You don't get this level of education on an ordinary cruise."

Others have a slightly different take. Wendy Baldwin, who has taken 14 Road Scholar trips, has found "more education on other Road Scholar programs." But she finds the "education more purposeful on this cruise," which is very different from the land programs. She likes the fact that the Floating Campus is a larger group than other Road Scholar programs so it offers more "opportunity to find kindred spirits to connect with…. I especially appreciate the cultural component like the music group that came on board."

Some passengers are here for the destination more than the classes. First-time cruiser Barbara Koehler from Birmingham, Alabama, wanted to see Skara Brae. And while her husband Bob Koehler was attracted by the lectures, Barbara wasn't, but she has found "most of them have been terrific. They weren't forced down your throat, either."

Indeed, it's not all study and no play aboard Ocean Albatros. Low-key quiz nights and cocktail receptions fill some evenings. People gather in the lounges or library to read or socialize during down time. Some use the small fitness center and spa. But this is mostly an early-to-bed bunch so they can be ready for the next day's learning adventure.

Like others, I loved the deep understanding of Scottish history and culture that I came away with, not to mention these cocktail-party gems:

• Scotland has more sheep than people.
• The 5,000-year-old Standing Stones of Callanish in the Outer Hebrides are older than Stonehenge and served as models for the popular "Outlander" TV series.
• The Scottish motto can be roughly translated as "Touch me if you dare."

Learning fun facts like these makes for better travel memories than losing money at the craps table.

Planning a cruise? Start with these stories:

• The 5 most desirable cabin locations on any cruise ship
• A beginners guide to picking a cruise line
• The 8 worst cabin locations on any cruise ship
• The ultimate guide to what to pack for a cruise
• A quick guide to the most popular cruise lines
• 21 tips and tricks that will make your cruise go smoothly
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I sailed on Margaritaville at Sea's newest ship. The 5-night cruise is a pretty great value, but I wouldn't go again.

• I went on a 5-night cruise aboard the Margaritaville at Sea Islander that began sailing this year.
• Its cabins and amenities are superior to Paradise, the first ship in the cruise line's fleet.
• Islander is a pretty great value overall, but it still left something to be desired for me.

Margaritaville at Sea had a rocky entrance into the cruise industry — but things could be looking up with its newest ship.

A partnership between Bahamas Paradise Cruise Line and Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville, Margaritaville at Sea had its maiden voyage with  Paradise in 2022.

It didn't go well. Early cruisers called Margaritaville at Sea the "Spirit Airlines" of the sea , criticizing Paradise as having quality issues and a lack of engaging entertainment, dining options, and thematic touches.

I didn't absolutely love my time on Paradise, either, but I recently gave the brand another chance with its second ship, Islander.

I was more prepared for my second Margaritaville at Sea cruise.

The Margaritaville at Sea Islander made its maiden voyage in June.

Like Paradise, Islander is not a new ship but a former Costa Cruises ship. Islander is about 24 years old and has been refurbished for Margaritaville at Sea.

I was curious to see how the 12-deck, 1,105-stateroom ship compared to Paradise, which has 13 decks and 658 cabins.

I selected a cozy interior stateroom , the ship's entry-level accommodation, for five nights. I booked it during Margaritaville at Sea's summer sale, which got me about 30% off.

The total cost was $465.05 per passenger, including taxes and port fees. The rate didn't include add-ons like drink packages or excursions.

This was a great deal compared to what I paid to sail on Paradise last year. On that cruise, I paid $330.70 for a two-night sailing.

I found more Margaritaville fun on the Islander.

If you like Paradise, you'll probably love Islander. Not only do you get longer cruise itineraries , but also you get more dining, bars, and activities.

There are six new eateries out of one dozen offerings, including the complimentary Mexican Cutie Cantina, which serves street tacos for breakfast and lunch; Island Eats, an adults-only outdoor seafood shack; and Islander dining room, which costs extra.

There are 13 bars and lounges, including a three-story LandShark Bar and Lookout and an invite-only speakeasy.

I think the Islander's staterooms are better, too.

My interior stateroom was smaller than it was on Paradise, but the cabin was comfortable and had more Margaritaville vibes.

I appreciated the palm-tree wallpaper, duvet covers that had subtle sateen parrots, and a "Livin' on Islander Time" throw pillow.

I found amenities on Islander that I didn't experience on Paradise.

While on the ship, I received a printed daily newsletter filled with onboard activities.

These included two new live production shows: the country-themed "Conky Tonkin' at Sea" and song, dance, and acrobatics show "Caribbean Heat Remix."

The itinerary also included things like a magic show, theme nights, a mini-golf course, a waterslide, and a circus-themed workshop.

There are several things worth splurging on, too.

Everyone's fare includes access to Fins, the main dining room. It's the only complimentary sit-down restaurant, so I opted to add a dining package to my cruise.

During booking, I added the Ultimate Dining Chill package for $107, which allowed me to try all of the specialty restaurants on board.

It includes dinner at JWB Prime Steakhouse, brunch and dinner at Islander Dining Room, and a $25 dining credit to each of the following restaurants: Far Side Sushi, Tiki Grill, and Island Eats.

I recommend this package if you want to try all the dining options.

I also bought unlimited WiFi for $67.50. It was mostly reliable.

I felt there were some downsides to Islander, though.

In my opinion, the ship's Fins Up! fitness center looked depressing.

I visited daily and found it was almost always empty. Though it was nice to have the place to myself, it still wasn't my favorite.

The space felt minimally stocked with a couple of treadmills, rowers, and weight machines. Its porthole windows were frosted over, so I couldn't even admire the ocean while working up a sweat.

I definitely preferred the gym on the Margaritaville at Sea's older ship, which had much better views.

The Islander's Port of Indecision buffet also let me down — as one of the few complimentary dining venues, it often had long lines.

Plus, the food selection wasn't very impressive compared to other cruises I've been on.

I expected a dozen or more stations with things like sushi or build-your-own noodle bars like I've seen on other cruise lines. However, I found the buffet on the Islander felt limited, mostly just featuring a few hot dishes, a salad bar, and desserts.

Fortunately, though, the buffet had plenty of seating to accommodate its crowds.

I was also put off by the color of the pools.

During my trip, the pool water looked greenish and I found it unappealing, making this the only ship I've sailed on where I didn't go swimming.

I asked the onboard crew about the water, and they said nothing was wrong with it.

When asked about the pool, a representative for Margaritaville at Sea wrote in an email that the water can sometimes have temporary discoloration when it's being actively filtered and chlorinated.

They added, "The water is always safe to swim in even when this occurs and we test the water quality continuously twenty four hours a day, seven days a week through the onboard filtration computer system."

I think Margaritaville at Sea took the complaints about Paradise into consideration when refurbishing Islander.

On this cruise, I got the sense Margaritaville at Sea really took into consideration the negative feedback it received about Paradise.

I found sailing with the Islander to be a much more improved and elevated experience than when I was on Paradise in 2022.

The staff seemed passionate and proactive, and the rooms looked more thematic. Whereas Paradise lacked an immersive Margaritaville experience, Islander is a spirited good time.

But both ships still lack amenities and luxurious perks that many other cruise lines have that I love, including eateries open 24/7, high-quality gyms, and spas with hydrotherapy and thermal suites.

It's unlikely I'll sail Islander again unless there's another major renovation — but I must admit that Margaritaville at Sea's price point and vibes can't be beaten. The Islander a pretty good value for a cruise.

• Main content

Cruises are making a post-pandemic comeback. Here's how the industry is changing to meet demand

For some people, it takes only one cruise to hook them for life.

That was the case for Stewart Chiron, who loved his first cruise so much he made a career out of it.

"It was a weekend cruise, and that was 326 cruises ago," he told Scripps News.

Known as "The Cruise Guy," Chiron started a cruise-exclusive travel agency 35 years ago.

"Cruising is an incredible way for people to connect, get together, to experience different cultures, different destinations," he said.

But the pandemic's impact on cruising numbers was enough to make even him uncertain about the future.

In 2019, 29.7 million people took cruises. In 2020 and 2012, 5.8 and 4.8 million took cruises, respectively.

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"With the pandemic hitting, the cruise industry completely shut down," Chiron said. "The ships were all anchored or docked somewhere around the world. I mean, it was a Herculean feat trying to get the crew back to their homes."

However, recent data from Cruise Lines International Association shows an epic comeback. Last year, the number of people taking cruises climbed to 31.7 million, a 6% increase from 2019. Its data is also forecasting 34.7 million passengers for next year, and nearly 40 million by 2027.

"The industry, I mean, they're shocked by how far out people are booking," Chiron said. "They've never been in a better book position at this time of the year for the next following years."

And the industry is putting in the infrastructure for that demand. According to the recent Cruise Ship Index, 15 new cruise ships are set to enter service next year, adding nearly 40,000 guest berths to the market. The industry is also expected to hire over 20,000 new crew members in 2025.

Cruise ships have also gotten much bigger. The industry campaign group Transport & Environment  says the world's biggest cruise ships have doubled in size since 2000, which is raising environmental concerns.

RELATED STORY | Video shows Coast Guard rescuing pregnant woman from Disney cruise

According to a report from The New York Times , a single cruise ship docked for one day emits as much exhaust as 34,400 idling semitrucks.

"They have to keep their engines running in order to keep power on the ship while they're unloading passengers and cargo, and then of course loading passengers and cargo on the back end. Of course, that produces emissions," said Phil Ambrose, senior project manager at Seattle City Light.

That is why ports like Seattle's are investing in shore power, with which instead of idling on diesel while in the port, cruise ships can plug into a city's electric grid just like an electric car in a garage.

"Shore power is really important for the maritime industry as a whole," Ambrose said.

Right now, Seattle is working toward getting all of its piers equipped with shore power, and will with the completion of its Pier 66 project by the end of this cruising season in October.

While CLIA data says that 46% of cruise ships are capable of plugging into shore power, only 35 ports worldwide have shore power capabilities. That's 3% of ports; so although the industry is growing, the infrastructure to sustain it has further to go.

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A tale of two luxury cruises and why each one is better than the other | Travel Views

• Updated: Aug. 27, 2024, 1:04 p.m.
• | Published: Aug. 27, 2024, 11:03 a.m.

PennLive's Joyce M. Davis on the island of Kas, Turkey, with her home-away-from-home cruise liner, Seabourn's Encore, docked just offshore in the Mediterranean. Davis was on a 10-day cruise between Athens and Haifa, Israel, in the summer of 2023. Russell W. Goodman

• Joyce M. Davis | [email protected]

All cruise lines aren’t the same, and that’s a good thing. Families with small children are seeking a far different experience for a summer vacation than newly-weds taking a 5-day jaunt into the Caribbean.

And retired couples who’ve spent their lifetimes saving for an ocean voyage are looking for a certain standard of relaxing luxury teens would find, well, boring.

But many travelers may not know even the upper end cruise lines are different in how they cater to their elite clientele. You can almost put your wallet away once you step onto a Seabourn ship, knowing top-quality meals, drinks and entertainment are all included in whatever price you negotiated to get onboard.

And, yes, prices can vary depending on where you sign up and when you book them. But that’s another column.

Oceania, which some cruise critics consider a notch or so below the “ultra-luxury” Seabourn line, is not so inclusive. You have to purchase drink packages on Oceania, and prices can be pretty steep, depending on whether you want booze only with meals or if you want to knock it back all day long.

On Seabourn, you can have champagne. with caviar lounging around the pool, and you won’t fork out a penny more. This “all-inclusive” angle influences whether some lines are classified as 6-star “ultra-luxury,” while others are only “premium.”

I have cruised both on Oceania and Seabourn and can attest they both offer travelers a very high-end experience. Oceania has some real plusses that Seabourn lacks, and vice versa. Trust me, you’ll feel like royalty on either of these ships.

The grand dining room of Oceania's new Vista cruise liner. Russell W. Goodman

I boarded Oceania’s newest Vista ship in spring 2024 at Civitavecchia, Italy, and spent 10 days hopscotching across the Mediterranean between ports in Italy, Spain, and France before anchoring for final adieus at the stunning island of Malta.

And in the end of summer of 2023, only weeks before the earth-shattering Oct. 7 attack on an Israeli kibbutz, I spent seven summer days aboard Seabourn’s Encore, leaving from Athens and ending in Haifa. This time, our ocean liner explored the Mediterranean between Turkey, Greece, and Cyprus.

The first thing worth noting about the two ships is their size. Neither is as large as some of the biggest cruise ships that can accommodate thousands of passengers and crew and that can boast 20 or more decks. If you’re looking for a behemoth party ship, that’s not what these premium and ultra-luxury ships are about. They specialize in smaller, more intimate journeys, with the newest craze being a yacht-like experience.

With its capacity of 1200 passengers, the Oceania Vista holds twice as many passengers as Seabourn’s Encore at 600 guests. A chilled bottle of champagne awaits newly boarding passengers in veranda staterooms on both ships. Both are comparable with comfortable sitting areas and spacious balconies, and refrigerators stocked with drinks.

Inside the Veranda Stateroom of Oceania's Vista cruise liner. Joyce M. Davis

On Seabourn, your stateroom is also stocked with your choice of booze. Not so with Oceania, but they do let you bring on your own.

Seabourn’s Encore also boasts a sizeable walk-in closet, which is a real plus. But the Vista’s concierge level veranda suites may have an even bigger advantage – complimentary laundry service.

The Veranda Stateroom on Seabourn's Encore cruise liner looks onto a spacous balcony for watching the waves go by. Joyce M. Davis

On a 10-day cruise, passengers on our ship were offered three opportunities to get clothes cleaned and returned folded and even pressed, if requested. The problem is the time the service took to get the clothes cleaned allowed me to use only twice on a 10-day cruise. But that was enough and more than what Seabourn offered by far.

It’s the one big downer about Seabourn’s Encore. Moods can turn quite foul when passengers have to wait in line in the laundry room, especially when someone cuts in line or hogs the machines. Passengers told stories of at least one woman getting kicked off a cruise for unruly behavior over a clothes dryer.

Seabourn should take a hint from Oceania and offer complimentary laundry in its fares to avoid unpleasant laundry scenes. At the very least, it needs to provide more than one laundry room to accommodate several hundred people. Oceania’s Vista has laundry rooms on decks 7-11. That alone should give the cruise line ultra-luxury billing.

Both cruise lines offer gourmet cuisine, world-class wines and spirits, and plenty of opportunities for the well-heeled to drop hundreds, if not thousands of dollars, for the best of the best Champagnes and Bordeaux.

Fine wines and great cuisine are hallmarks of any high end cruise. Both Seabourn and Oceania do not disappoint, Joyce M. Davis

Oceania offers a package that allows passengers to pay extra to have alcohol with meals, at about $40 per person; or to have it whenever you want it at any time of the day or night. On my cruise, that option came to about $70 per person per day.

The caveat in all of this is the company sometimes offers hundreds of dollars in cabin credit incentives that can cover some drink costs and onshore excursions. But this all can be confusing, so it’s best to clarify what the incentives can cover and what they can’t.

You can’t go wrong with the food on either of these ships.

The Vista’s grand dining room is a marvel to behold with its gold and white color scheme lit with a series of massive crystal chandeliers.

The main dining room of Seabourn’s Encore is equally posh and inviting with attentive waiters and sommeliers ready to help select the right wines for each course of the meal. Yes, you can have Prosecco with your snails, a white Bourgogne with one of a half dozen salad choices, and a Merlot with your filet mignon, rack of lamb or duck confit. It’s all in the fare.

The main dining room on Seabourn's Encore ship. Russell W. Goodman

Both the Seabourn and the Oceania vessels have multiple restaurants and no long, breakfast, lunch or dinner lines. And on both vessels, there’s ample food for those preferring to while away hours around the pool. That’s where Seabourn comes out ahead.

Afternoon caviar and champagne is, as you guessed, ready for the asking. And it’s all in Seabourn’s all-inclusive fare.

The biggest downer I experienced with Oceania had nothing to do with the on-board experience but with buying the tickets. I thought I was getting a trustworthy deal going through a recommended travel broker only to realize he was tacking on $1500 in hidden commissions.

But that’s a story for another column on cruising the world -- coming soon.

Joyce M. Davis is PennLive’s Outreach & Opinion Editor. Follow her on Facebook and on Twitter @byjoycedavis.

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