best nikon safari lenses

Finding the Universe

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The Best Safari Camera, Lenses and Photography Accessories – Plus How to Choose

Last updated: March 5, 2024 . Written by Laurence Norah - 47 Comments

Probably the biggest decision you’ll have to make before going on safari is what camera equipment to take with you. This is a big decision, and it’s important to get it right before you go.

When you are on safari, you’re going to see people taking photos on everything from their smartphones through to super high end professional equipment with gigantic lenses.

Choosing a camera is a personal decision where you have to weigh various factors including budget, ease of use, size, and the type of pictures you want to get.

I’ve been a professional photographer for many years, and I also teach photography online . I’ve also been lucky enough to spend time on safari photographing animals in a number of countries around the world.

Based on my experiences, I’ve learnt a lot about what sort of camera works best for safari, and what to consider when choosing a camera for a safari.

In this post, I’m going to tell you everything you need to know about how to choose a camera setup that’s right for you and your safari. I’m also going to recommend some cameras and lenses across a range of budgets and styles.

I recommend reading this post along with my guide to getting great photos on safari , so you’re fully prepared for your trip.

What to Look for In a Camera for Safari

Before I recommend specific cameras and lenses, I wanted to share the things that are important to look for when choosing a camera for safari. This information will help you to make a fully informed decision, rather than just picking something off a list.

We’re going to assume you are looking for a new camera for your trip, but for those who already own a camera, this can help you decide whether or not your current camera equipment will be able to give you the photos you want on your trip.

Before you even start to think about what kind of camera you want and the features it has, you are going to have to decide on your budget. This will make a big impact on the camera you end up getting, and it’s important to set a realistic budget from the outset so you can then find something suitable that meets your budget.

Obviously, budget will vary for everyone. Don’t forget that your budget should not just include the camera itself. If you are buying a camera where you can change the lens, then you will want to include a lens in the purchase, and these can be just as expensive as the camera body.

Additionally, you will likely need accessories like a camera bag, camera strap, memory card, and spare batteries as well.

In general, the following price estimates in USD should give you an idea of what you can get for your money:

$200 – $800 – an entry level camera which will help you capture great memories of your trip
$800 – $2500 – a mid-range camera that will be capable of getting great photos in the majority of situations
$2500+ – moving up into high end territory now, as you start to spend over this amount you are looking at more professional oriented cameras which will capture amazing images in a wide range of lighting conditions if you put the time into learning how to use them properly.

As you can see, there’s a wide range of price points, and you can easily spend a great deal of money on camera equipment. However, you can also spend less and still get great results.

Type of Camera for Safari

Once you have set a budget, you have to decide on the sort of camera you want to actually take with you on safari.

You have four main options for choosing a camera for safari. These are a smartphone, a compact camera, a bridge camera , or an interchangeable lens camera (DSLR or mirrorless).

Each of these options has advantages and disadvantages, and I’ll quickly go over each option now.

Smartphone . A smartphone is a good option if you really don’t want to carry any extra equipment and are happy to just get some images to remember your trip. They are generally easy to use and the latest models include some level of optical zoom. However, you will struggle to get great shots of any wildlife further away than several yards, and images taken when there is less light will likely be quite grainy.
Compact camera . A compact camera is a good compromise between a smartphone and a bigger setup. They are very portable and lightweight, but models are still available with good optical zooms. They are also easy to use, hence are often also called point-and-shoot cameras. However, some models do include more manual modes and advanced features for those who want more control. The main downsides are reduced image quality compared to a larger setup, and they don’t perform so well in low light.
Bridge camera . One of the more popular options for safari is a bridge camera , also sometimes known as a superzoom camera. Bridge cameras are larger than compact cameras and they tend to have big zoom lenses that can capture far away subjects. Like with compact cameras, you can’t change the lens like on mirrorless or DSLR. They tend to offer a good balance between image quality, zoom, weight, usability, and affordability.
DSLR / Mirrorless Camera . If you want the best results in terms of image quality, then a DSLR or mirrorless camera is the option to go for. These have larger sensors so can capture more light than other camera types, meaning you get better results in lower light conditions. These cameras also let you change the lens, so you can pick a lens or lenses which suit your budget and needs. They also have far more manual controls than the other options in the list, so you have more control over how your images look. The downside is that they are larger and heavier, take more time to truly master, and are usually more expensive.

There is no correct answer from the above. Your decision will depend on your budget, how big a camera you want to carry, and how much time you want to spend learning how to use it. Below are different images from a number of different cameras to show you what is possible.

Sensor Size for a Safari Camera

The sensor is one of the most important components inside your camera. The sensor is the digital equivalent of a piece of film. It is what records the light and saves it as a digital file.

Unlike a roll of film, which came in a fixed size for most cameras, a digital sensor can be as big or small as the camera manufacturer wants. Smaller sensors are found in smaller cameras like smartphones and compact cameras, whilst bigger sensors are found in mirrorless and DSLR cameras.

The size of the sensor affects a few things. First, it affects the actual size of the camera and lens. A larger sensor needs a bigger camera body to house it, and a bigger lens to capture the light. A smaller sensor will fit into a smaller camera body.

Larger sensors are also capable of capturing more light, in much the same way that if you leave a large bucket out in a rain storm it will catch more water than a small bucket over the same period of time.

This means a larger sensor will normally perform better when there is less light available, and it will produce less noisy images. You can also use faster shutter speeds.

Larger sensors are however more expensive to produce and as a result tend to be found in higher-end and more expensive cameras.

Common sensor sizes you’ll come across are listed below in order of size from smaller to larger. However, you should be aware that there are a lot of variations, especially in the ultra-competitive smartphone market.

1/2.5″ – 5.76mm x 4.29mm (25mm²). Found in smartphones, as well as some compact cameras and bridge cameras. The sensor sizes around this point vary a little but this is around the average.
1-inch sensor – 13.2 x 8.8mm (116mm²) found in high-end compact cameras and high-end bridge cameras. The 1″ name is a marketing term which has nothing to do with the size of the sensor.
Micro Four thirds – 17.3mm x 13mm (225mm²) found in “micro four-thirds” cameras from Olympus and Panasonic.
APS-C Canon – 22.4mm x 14.8mm (329mm²) found in most consumer-oriented Canon DSLR and mirrorless cameras
APS-C Nikon, Sony, Pentax – 23.6mm x 15.7mm (370mm²) found in most consumer oriented DSLR and mirrorless cameras from other manufacturers like Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Fuji etc. Nikon calls these DX sensors.
Full Frame – 36mm x 24mm (864mm²). Found in high end professional DSLR and Mirrorless cameras from Sony, Canon, Nikon etc. So called because it is roughly the same size as a piece of 35mm film.

The important thing to compare is the surface area in square millimetres. This shows the comparative size of each sensor. A full frame sensor for example has more than double the surface area of an APS-C sensor, and over 30x the surface area of a smartphone or compact camera sensor.

That leads to big differences in real world performance.

Generally, the larger the sensor, the better photos you will be able to get. This will be most obvious in lower light situations.

Ideally, for the best photos, you would want an APS-C or full frame sensor for safari as this will gather the most amount of light and be useful in more situations. However, the trade-off is that these cameras tend to be more expensive and larger in size. So I’d recommend getting the largest sensor that fits with your budget and preferred camera size.

Focal Length / Optical Zoom for Safari

A really important specification to think about when picking a camera or lens for safari is the focal length of the lens. This is also often referred to as the “zoom”. The focal length is particularly important if you want to photograph birds, smaller animals and more distant wildlife.

A bigger zoom lens will let you get clearer images of more distant as well as smaller wildlife like birds or small animals.

When it comes to zoom, you will often see the terms optical zoom and digital zoom. The key specification is optical zoom.

Digital zoom is effectively the same as cropping an image after you have taken it, so has no real use as you could do this yourself with an editing application.

Optical zoom involves moving the optical elements in the camera to actually magnify the image.

When it comes to choosing a zoom amount for safari, if you’re picking a camera which has a built-in lens like a compact camera or a bridge camera, then you would want at least a 10x optical zoom. But ideally I’d recommend a 16x optical zoom or larger.

If you’re in the market for one of these cameras, remember that the optical zoom number is just a marketing number. It refers to the underlying focal length, which is the more accurate way of comparing magnification across lenses. Let me quickly cover that for clarity as it can be confusing.

All lenses have what is known as a focal length, which is measured in millimetres (mm). If the mm number is small, say 20mm, then it’s a wide-angle lens, so will get a lot of the scene in the frame. If the number is bigger than 50mm, then it’s a telephoto lens, meaning it magnifies the image.

Here are a couple of examples of the same scene at two different focal lengths so you can see the difference. These are uncropped images.

As you can see from the images above, the 400mm focal length obviously lets you get much closer to the subject. You could crop down the top shot to a similar result, but it would be much less sharp and more grainy as a result.

When a camera has a zoom lens, it means that you can change the focal length, to make the image appear bigger (zooming in) and smaller (zooming out). The optical zoom number refers to the difference between the smallest and largest focal length number.

For example, if you have a camera like the Sony RX10 IV , this has a 24mm – 600mm equivalent focal length. 600 divided by 24 is 24, so this camera has a 24x optical zoom.

If you had a DSLR or mirrorless camera with a 150mm – 600mm lens, this is technically just a 4x optical zoom because 600 divided by 150 is 4x. However, both the Sony and the DSLR camera would give the same result in terms of framing when zoomed all the way in.

The difference is that the Sony would also let you take wide angle shots. However, if you compare a 4x number with a 16x number, the Sony sounds much more impressive! This is why it’s important to understand the underlying numbers, so you can get past the marketing.

In general, for wildlife photography on safari you want a camera with a lens which will let you zoom between 70mm and 400mm. This range will work well for most wildlife photography scenarios, and especially on safari as you normally can’t get out of the vehicle or leave the road, so are restricted by how close you can get to the animals.

Now there are also ultra-telephoto or superzoom lenses out there that start at 400mm and can go up to 1200mm. These lenses are going to be too large and too expensive for most people, but may be of interest to ardent wildlife photographers with big budgets, particularly those interested in bird photography.

Although your main focus is likely going to be photographing animals and birds while on safari, chances are that you are also going to want a camera that you can use to take photos of landscapes, buildings, food, people, etc. as well.

So you may want a camera that can also take wide angle shots (around 20mm). That might be a versatile zoom lens on your existing camera, a separate wide-angle lens, or you might consider using a different camera such as your smartphone for wide angle shots.

Aperture for Safari

As well as focal length, every lens has a specification known as an aperture. The aperture is the hole inside the lens which the light passes through. It’s a bit like the pupil in your eye.

Like the pupil in your eye, the aperture can get bigger and smaller to let more or less light through.

Every lens has an aperture, and the main specification to look out for is how big this aperture will go. Aperture is measured in f/stops, with a smaller number meaning the hole is bigger.

For example, an f/2.8 aperture lens features a bigger hole than an f/5.6 aperture lens.

Generally, the larger the aperture the more desirable. A larger aperture hole lets more light through, meaning you can use a higher shutter speed or a lower ISO, both of which can be of benefit.

You may notice when looking at cameras or lenses that the aperture is shown as a range, for example f/3.5 – 5.6. What this means is that the maximum aperture changes as you change the focal length. At the widest angle, the maximum aperture will be f/3.5. At full zoom, it will be f/5.6.

This is particularly common on compact cameras and bridge cameras with very big zoom lenses, as well as less expensive lenses. This means that the more you zoom in, the less light will be hitting the sensor and so you’ll need to use a faster shutter speed or higher ISO value to compensate.

The more expensive high-end standalone lenses for DSLR and mirrorless cameras may feature a fixed aperture throughout the focal length. These also tend to be the biggest and heaviest lenses.

For safari, the larger the aperture (and smaller the f/stop number) the better, although of course you will have to budget this against weight and cost. In an ideal world, you’d want a lens with a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or f/4 for safari, but this isn’t always practical when cost and weight are taking into account.

Ease of Use and Learning Curve

Cameras are not created equally when it comes to ease of use. A smartphone camera for example tends to be very easy to use, in that you press a button and it takes a photo. They also come with a lot of clever technology, known as computational photography, which tries to get the best results for every image you take. This is also likely a device you are very familiar with and use regularly.

However, other types of cameras are going to have a steeper learning curve, especially mirrorless and DSLR cameras. Of course, mirrorless or DSLR camera will also have an automatic mode which works in the same way as a compact camera or smartphone, in that you can press a button and take a photo, although they are normally missing the computational photography element.

This is why smartphone camera images can look better than shots from a mirrorless or DSLR, especially when taken by a novice user.

The good news is that you can get amazing results with a high-end camera if you take the time to learn what all the buttons and dials actually do, as then you’ll be able to make the camera do what you want it to do. But this does require an investment of time and practice.

The decision you have to make is how much time you want to spend learning how to use your camera. If you really would prefer a more point and shoot experience, then a smartphone, compact camera or bridge camera is probably the best option. You will of course still get better results if you learn its various features, but it should still get good results with its out of the box settings.

On the other hand, if you would like to spend some time really learning how your camera works, then a DSLR or mirrorless camera is a good option. This will have a wide range of shooting modes, including fully manual options, giving you total control over the end result.

If you are planning to get a new camera and want some help in using it and improving your photography there are a lot of books, workshops, and classes out there. For instance, I run an online travel photography course that is designed to help anyone improve their photography.

Megapixel count

Every camera sensor has a megapixel count, usually in the range of 12MP through to 50MP+.

The higher the number, the more pixels the camera sensor will record when saving your image. A megapixel just means 1 million pixels, and would refer to an image 1000 pixels wide and 1000 pixels high. 1000 times 1000 is a million, hence megapixel.

More megapixels means the final image will be bigger in terms of image width and height. The advantage of this is that it can let you crop your images more without losing detail.

The disadvantage is that image files are bigger, and higher megapixel images can be slightly grainier.

I would not worry too much about megapixel count unless you plan to do a lot of photography of smaller subjects like birds from a further away distance or plan to print a lot of your images at a larger size. In these cases a high megapixel count (30MP+) will let you crop the shot more and still get a good result.

Otherwise, for smartphones anything over 12MP is good, and for other cameras anything over 20MP will be enough for safari. You can also get away with a lower megapixel count if the camera has a very big zoom, as this negates the need for cropping after the shot.

Image stabilization

When you are taking photos and holding the camera in your hand, any movement in your hand can translate into motion blur in your images. This will result in images that aren’t sharp.

This impacts images taken with slower shutter speeds, such as when you are shooting in low light. It’s also more apparent when using longer zooms, which can exaggerate hand movements. This is similar to the effect you get when looking through binoculars or a telescope – even small movements translate to the image being blurry to look at.

Cameras with image stabilization can compensate for this up to a point, meaning your images will be sharper. Image stabilization can be built in to either the camera body or the lens (or both), and I’d suggest picking both a camera body and lens with image stabilization for the best results.

Just be aware that image stabilization can only do so much, it’s not a fix all for image sharpness! So be sure to try to stabilize your camera as well as you can before taking photos, and use an appropriate shutter speed for the focal length you are shooting at.

Weather sealing

A safari can be a very dusty place, and cameras tend not to like dust too much. If you are going to a tropical part of the world or visiting a country during its wet season, you are also likely to encounter rain and moisture. Some cameras on the market, particularly the more expensive models, offer weather sealing.

A weather sealed camera normally has various features to prevent ingress of moisture into the camera, such as rubber protection on the lens mounts and memory card slots. This helps prevent water getting into the camera in a rain shower, but also helps to prevent dust getting into the camera.

Dust inside the camera can have a variety of negative effects, from creating unseemly spots on your images if it lands on the sensor, through to causing it to not work at all.

If you have a camera which offers some level of weather sealing, this can protect against both water and dust, meaning you have one less thing to worry about. Ideally, you will want a camera with weather sealing for safari photography, although this is not a feature which is available on all cameras.

Autofocus system

Taking photos of moving wildlife can be challenging, especially when it comes to getting and keeping focus. Getting a camera which has a good autofocus system is key.

Modern autofocus systems can automatically identify and track things like animals and their eyes, so all you have to worry about is keeping the subject in the frame.

When looking at a camera for safari photography, check to see what features the autofocus system has. You are specifically looking to see how fast it can focus (faster is better), and if it offers any kind of subject detection or eye tracking. This will make getting sharp photos a lot easier.

Burst speed

The burst speed of a camera refers to how many photos it can take in a second. A high-end camera will be able to take between 12 and 30 images per second. A mid-range camera will be able to do around 4 – 12 images per second.

A higher burst speed means you’ll be more likely to capture specific moments, especially of faster action like a bird in flight or an animal running.

In addition, because burst speed is directly related to the overall technical capabilities of the camera, a camera with a higher burst speed will be better specified than a camera with a low burst speed.

For safari, a camera that can shoot at least five frames per second is a good idea, but higher is always better.

A factor you might also want to consider when choosing a camera for safari is the weight of the system. Whilst a lot of safari’s take place in a vehicle, where weight may be less of an issue, there are situations where you weight will be an issue.

For example, there are some locations where you can do guided ranger walks, which will require you to carry your gear. Similarly, if you are doing a tracking experience, such as gorilla trekking or chimpanzee trekking , that will also often require you to carry your gear.

In addition, if you are planning on using planes to get around when at your destination, you should be aware that domestic flights to safari parks tend to operate on fairly small planes which can have strict weight limits. So you will want to be sure that your gear meets these requirements.

Generally, a smartphone, compact camera or bridge camera will be fairly lightweight. Larger mirrorless and DSLR camera systems, especially those with full-frame sensors and large telephoto lenses, can weigh a lot more.

The Best Camera for Safari

I’ve now covered the main features to look for in a camera for safari. I’m now going to provide a list of some of my recommended cameras for safari. This list is not exhaustive as there is obviously a lot of choice out there.

Combining this list with the information on what to look for in a safari camera should give you a good starting point. For those cameras which allow you to change lenses, I also have some recommended safari lenses in the following section.

These cameras are ordered approximately by price, from low to high, but you will of course want to check prices yourself as they do vary. Prices start from around $400 and go to over $3,000 for high end models.

Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ80 / FZ82

If you want a great value camera for safari that is easy to use and has a good zoom, the Lumix DC-FZ80 bridge camera from Panasonic is an excellent option to consider.

Launched in March 2017, this is the lowest priced option in our list of cameras for safari, but you still get a lot of camera for your money.

First, there’s an image-stabilized 20-1200mm (60x) lens with around five stops of stabilization. That’s paired with an 18.1 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor which also supports 4K video.

The screen on the back is fixed, but it is touch enabled. The camera is WiFi enabled, and is a lightweight 616g (21.7oz). The main downside is there’s no weather sealing, although that isn’t a surprise at this price point. Battery life is also not spectacular.

However, you do get a great zoom and this is a solid budget safari camera option with a zoom that will let you capture even further away subjects.

Key Specifications : 20-1200mm (60x) focal length, f/2.8-5.9 aperture, 10 images / second, 18.1 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor Weight : 616g / 21.7oz Battery life : 330 shots Price : Check latest price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

Panasonic Lumix ZS70 / (TZ90 in UK)

If you want a compact camera for safari at a budget price point, check out this Panasonic Lumix model. You get a 30x optical zoom lens (24mm – 720mm), a 20.3MP 1/2.3″ sensor, image stabilization, full manual controls and even RAW support.

There’s also an electronic viewfinder, a definite bonus in a compact camera at this price point. This can make composing images in bright sunlight easier. Speed wise it can shoot at up to 10 frames per second.

The Best Travel Camera 2022: Compact, DSLR, Mirrorless & Phone!

A newer model was released in 2019 – the ZS80. This adds Bluetooth and a higher resolution EVF but not much else.

We’re not sure that is a sufficient upgrade to justify the price difference, but it’s up to you. If you find them at the same price, then you might as well get the ZS80, otherwise the ZS70 remains our pick while it’s still available.

Key Specifications : 24-720mm (30x) focal length, f/3.3-6.4 aperture, 10 images / second, 20.3 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor Weight : 322g / 11.36oz Battery life : 380 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here

Canon Powershot SX740

Canon have been making a wide range of cameras for decades, and you’re going to find a few of their cameras in this list. This would be our recommended Canon option if you’re looking for a great value compact camera with a good zoom for safari.

For your money you get a 1/2.3″ 20.3MP sensor and a 40x optical zoom (24-960mm) As with other compact cameras with a long zoom, it comes with the tradeoff that the maximum aperture only goes to f3.3, and at maximum zoom, is all the way down at f/6.9. Battery life is also not great at 265 shots and there’s no viewfinder.

Still, it’s one of the best value compact zoom cameras out there especially at this price point, and the price is excellent for what you get. Just don’t expect miracles in terms of image quality or low light performance, especially when zoomed all the way in.

Key Specifications : 24-960mm (40x) focal length, f/3.3-6.9 aperture, 10 1images / second, 20.3 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor Weight : 299g / 10.55oz Battery life : 265 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here

Panasonic Lumix ZS200 (TZ200 in UK)

If image quality and low-light performance are more important to you than zoom, check out Panasonic’s Lumix ZS200.

This compact camera comes with a 20.1 megapixel 1-inch sensor, making it around four times larger than standard 1/2.3″ compact camera sensors.

You also get a 15x (24-360mm) lens with a variable f/3.3 – f/6.4 aperture and image stabilization. This is actually a pretty reasonable zoom for most safari situations, with the exception of small distant birdlife.

It also has full manual controls, a touchscreen interface, electronic viewfinder, and RAW shooting.

It’s definitely a slightly more expensive option when it comes to compact cameras for safari, but that optical zoom is a definite bonus especially in the 1-inch sensor category.

Key Specifications: 24-360mm (15x) focal length, f/3.3-6.4 aperture, 10 images / second, 20.1 megapixel 1-inch sensor Weight: 340g / 11.99oz Battery life : 370 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here .

Canon Powershot SX70 HS

Canon’s bridge camera offering is another capable option. It features an impressive 21-1365mm (65x optical) zoom lens, which has a variable f/3.4-6.5 maximum aperture. It’s also one of the lightest bridge cameras on the market, if weight is a consideration.

The lens is optically stabilized, providing up to five stops of stability. The 1/2.3″ sensor offers 20 megapixels, which is enough for most users, especially considering the impressive zoom means you shouldn’t need to crop very much.

It has full manual controls as well as RAW support, and you get both Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity as well as 4K video support.

There are some drawbacks. Image quality at the zoom and wide angles is a little soft, and there’s no touch screen or weather sealing. The screen does flip out and tilt though.

My parents have an earlier model of this camera (they provided the tiger photo earlier in the post) and they have been very happy with the results from safaris in destinations around the world.

Key Specifications : 21-1365mm (65x) focal length, f/3.4-6.5 aperture, 10 images / second, 20 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor Weight : 610 g / 21.5 oz Battery life : 325 shots Price : Check latest price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

Nikon D3500

Nikon are a well known brand well it comes to DSLR cameras, and the Nikon D3500 is an excellent value DSLR. It also comes with the big advantage that you get access to all the Nikon and Nikon compatible lenses, which is a huge choice.

For your money, you get a 24MP APS-C sized sensor, full manual controls and RAW support. Burst speeds are a little slow at 5 frames per second, but battery life is incredible at 1,550 shots. It’s also relatively light for a DSLR.

There’s no weather sealing, and the screen doesn’t feature any touch or flip out technology. There’s also no image stabilization, but a great many lenses are available which do feature this technology. If you want a budget DSLR for safari, this is a good option.

Key Specifications: 5 images / second, 24 megapixel / APS-C sensor Weight: 365g / 12.87oz Battery life: 1550 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here .

Canon Rebel SL3 (EOS 250D in Europe)

The SL3 (or EOS 250D) is one of Canon’s budget-oriented DSLR cameras. The Canon Rebel line is an excellent series of good value entry-level DSLR cameras (my first DSLR was a Rebel), and the SL3 is no exception.

It’s one of the smaller SLR cameras Canon has made, and it offers great performance for an excellent price. Specs include a touchscreen, 24.2MP APS-C sized sensor, WiFi, 1070 shot battery capacity, 4K video support, and compatibility with all of Canon’s lenses (and a great many third party lenses.).

There’s no image stabilization, but as with the Nikon there are a great many lenses available which do feature this technology. It’s also not weather sealed.

Key Specifications: 5 images / second, 24.2 megapixel APS-C sensor Weight: 449g / 15.84oz Battery life: 1070 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here .

Nikon Coolpix P950

The Nikon Coolpix P950, released in 2020, has a lot going for it. First, you get an impressive 24-2000mm lens, which is an 83x optical zoom. That should be more than enough for any kind of safari photo, and in particular for those of you looking for a camera for bird photography.

The maximum aperture starts at a wide f/2.8, and narrows down to f/6.5 when zoomed in. Given the length of the lens, this is to be expected.

The lens is stabilized, and the stabilization offers an impressive 5.5 stops of improvement. Sensor wise, you’re looking at a 1/2.3″ 16MP sensor, which offers a good balance between size and low light performance.

Image quality is good although softens as you zoom further in. This is quite common on compact and bridge cameras with big zooms. There is a reason high end mirrorless and DSLR lenses cost thousands of dollars after all! However, I think most users will be happy with the performance.

The megapixel count isn’t particularly high, but you are unlikely to need to crop much given you have an incredible zoom.

The P950 has support for RAW photography as well as manual modes that let you set shutter speed, ISO, and aperture. There’s also 4K video support as well as WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity options.

There are a few downsides. Battery life is quite low at 290 shots, and the huge lens means this camera is quite heavy for a bridge camera, weighing just over 1 kg (2.2 lb). There’s also no touchscreen, or weather sealing.

Key Specifications : 24-2000mm (83x) focal length, f/2.8-6.5 aperture, 7 images / second, 16 megapixel 1/2.3″ sensor Weight : 1005 g / 35.4 oz Battery life : 290 shots Price : Check latest price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

The Z50 is Nikon’s more entry level mirrorless camera, which features a 20.9MP APS-C sized sensor, which Nikon calls DX sized.

Despite being entry-level, you still get a lot for your money. There’s 11fps burst shooting, 4K video support, a tilting touchscreen display and an OLED viewfinder. You also get Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity, with battery life rated to around 300 shots.

This is a great lightweight mirrorless camera at a good price, however do be aware when comparing this and other DSLR and mirrorless cameras to other cameras on our round up that you will have to buy a lens as well. It is also compatible with most of Nikon’s lenses via an adaptor, which gives you a huge choice.

It even has some weather-sealing, although the pop-up flash means it isn’t considered as weather-sealed as some of its more expensive siblings.

Key Specifications : 11 images / second, 20.9 megapixel APS-C sensor Weight : 450g / 15.87 oz Battery life : 320 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

Panasonic Lumix FZ1000 II

If you like the idea of a bridge camera but would prefer improved image quality and low light performance over a huge zoom, check out the FZ1000 II from Panasonic.

Released in 2019, this camera features a 20.1 Megapixel 1 inch sensor. This means you get better low light performance than bridge cameras with smaller sensors, as well as higher image quality.

Unfortunately, a larger sensor comes with some tradeoffs, namely the zoom. The FZ1000II features a 25-400mm lens, equivalent to a 16x optical zoom. This is definitely on the low end for a bridge camera, but if you’re not too worried about shooting very distant subjects, 400mm is still on par in terms of magnification with DSLR or mirrorless zoom lenses.

When I go on safari, I find a 400mm lens works fine 99% of the time. The only exception really is for small birds, where a longer lens is nearly always helpful.

The other nice thing about this lens is that it features a wide f/2.8 aperture. This drops to f/4 when zoomed in, which is still very respectable. A wider aperture lets more light in, meaning you can shoot at higher shutter speeds and lower ISO values. The lens is also image stabilized, offering 3-5 stops of stabilization.

The display tilts and swivels out from the camera and is touch enabled. You also get WiFi and Bluetooth support, as well as a relatively good battery life of 440 shots. Video wise, you get 4K video support. Despite having a larger sensor, the camera is not too heavy at 810 g (1.79 lbs).

There’s no dust or water protection, which is a shame in a camera at this price point, and probably the main downside. Otherwise though, if you are happy with the zoom range, this is a solid option.

Key Specifications : 25-400mm (16x) focal length, f/2.8-4 aperture, 10 images / second, 20.1 megapixel 1″ sensor Weight : 810 g / 28.5 oz Battery life : 440 shots Price : Check latest price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra / iPhone 14 Pro Max

I appreciate it’s a little jarring to go from cameras to smartphones, but I know that many of you might not want to take anything other than a smartphone on safari. For many shots, a smartphone will work just fine, especially in those scenarios where the animals are very near.

If you are going to take a smartphone for your safari camera, then you might as well pick the best option. The two contenders I recommend are either the Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra or the iPhone 14 Pro Max. I’ve put these together because at this point, most people have likely settled on Android or iPhone.

Specs wise they are not dissimilar when it comes to the camera technology. The most important feature, and the reason I chose these two phones for safari photography, is that they both have a relatively good optical zoom (by smartphone standards at least). That means you’ll still be able to shoot wildlife that is a little further away and get good results.

The Samsung S23 Ultra actually has four cameras, each with its own sensor. Most importantly, there’s a 10x (230mm equivalent) optical zoom on a 10 megapixel 1/3.52″ sensor. It’s quite a small sensor even by smartphone standards, but that 10x zoom could definitely come in handy.

The iPhone 14 Pro Max has three cameras. The longest reach it has is from a 2x (77mm equivalent) optical zoom on a 1/3.4″ sensor.

Both phones offer a range of photography focused features, from image stabilization through to powerful computational technology to improve how your images look. If you really want a smartphone for your safari, one of these two options would be our pick.

Price on Amazon for Samsung here , Apple on Apple store here .

Sony RX100 VII

If you like the idea of a compact camera but don’t want to sacrifice too much image quality, consider the RX100 VII. Released in August 2019, in our opinion this is one of the best compact cameras for safari that money can buy, and we travel with an earlier version ourselves.

The RX100 VII has an 8x optical zoom, equivalent to a 24mm – 200mm lens. That’s about the absolute minimum focal length we’d recommend for a safari. It also has a 20.1 megapixel 1-inch sized sensor like the Panasonic ZS200, which is the closest alternative.

The main differences are that the ZS200 has more zoom at the expense of a narrower aperture. The RX100 has a faster burst rate at 20 frames per second, and it also has a much-improved focus system which can lock on and track subjects very quickly. As you might imagine, that can come in very handy for safari photography.

Sony have used the learning acquired from the focus technology in their high-end professional cameras and it definitely shows.

Image quality in the Sony is also a little better than the Panasonic.

The RX100 also has image stabilisation, a tilting screen and an impressive electronic viewfinder. This is a great all-round compact camera, although it is quite expensive. If the price is too high, the ZS200 offers a great deal at a much more reasonable price.

Key Specifications: 24-200mm (x) focal length, f/2.8-4.5 aperture, 20 images / second, 20.1 megapixel /1″ sensor Weight: 302g / 10.65oz Battery life: 240 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here

Sony have been making excellent consumer oriented mirrorless cameras for a long time. The A6600 is the current top of their A6xxx range.

The A6600 has a lot of technology packed into its relatively diminutive body. There’s a 24.2 megapixel APS-C sized sensor which can shoot at 11 frames per second. It has Sony’s impressive real-time subject tracking which can recognise and track human and animals’ eyes very quickly.

You also get in body image stabilization, a flip up touch screen, WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity, an impressive 810 shot battery life and weather sealing. All in all, this is a feature packed camera that would be a great option for safari photography when paired with a good telephoto lens.

Key Specifications : 11 images / second, 24.2 megapixel APS-C sensor Weight : 503g / 17.74oz Battery life : 810 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here

Canon EOS R7

This mirrorless camera for Canon was launched in 2022, and it is packed with features that make it an excellent choice for a safari camera. In fact, a lot of the technology in this camera, especially around autofocus, is borrowed from Canon’s high-end EOS R3, a camera which retails in excess of $6,000 USD.

At the heart of this camera is a 32.5MP APS-C sized sensor. That is fully image stabilized, and it supports shooting at 15 frames per second (mechanical) and a staggering 30 frames per second (electronic).

Perhaps the most impressive feature though is the autofocus. This can identify and track a range of subjects, including animals and birds. I have used this system extensively and it is amazing how well it can lock onto even a fast moving subject to enable you to get sharp shots every time.

You also get a touch-enabled flip screen, weather sealing, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity, and compatibility with a massive selection of Canon lenses. Battery life is reasonable at 660 shots, and the weight without a lens is also good at 612g/ 21.58oz.

If you are looking for an APS-C sensor camera for safari photography, this would be at the top of my list.

Key Specifications : 30 images / second, 32.5 megapixel APS-C sensor Weight : 612g / 21.58oz Battery life : 660 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX10 IV

If you love the idea of a bridge camera but don’t want to sacrifice image quality, speed and weather sealing, look no further than the stunning Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX10 IV. Sony has been leading the way with high performance camera sensors for a number of years, and the RX10 IV is the current pinnacle of their bridge camera offerings.

This is probably the best bridge camera for safari, although as with every decision, there are of course some compromises. The main one being price. This is definitely a premium offering. However, you do get a lot for your money.

To start with, this is a 1″ sensor camera, with 20.1 megapixels of resolution. That is paired with a 24-600mm (25x optical) lens, which we think will be enough for most safari needs.

The lens starts out at a very wide f/2.4, meaning lots of light can reach the sensor. At 600mm the lens stops down to f/4. This is still very impressive, when you consider that a 600mm f/4 lens for a DSLR will set you back five figures! The lens is also stabilized, offering around 4.5 stops of improvement.

You also get one of the fastest autofocus systems in the world, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and 4K video, superb image quality, a touch-enabled screen, a weather sealed body, and a truly impressive 24 frames per second shooting speed. Naturally there are full manual controls and RAW support.

With all that tech onboard, combined with the relatively large sensor and wider aperture zoom lens, this camera does weigh quite a bit. In fact, at 1095g (2.4lbs) it’s heavier than some DSLRs. However, if quality and performance are your key goals, and you just want an all-in-one camera that will just work, then this camera still offers excellent value for money.

If the price is a bit much, then consider the earlier model RX10 III , which offers similar features at a lower price point. You will lose the touchscreen, and the autofocus and shooting speeds are a little slower.

Key Specifications : 24-600mm (24x) focal length, f2.4/4 aperture, 24 images / second, 20.1megapixel 1″ sensor Weight : 1095 g / 38.6 oz Battery life : 400 shots Price : Check latest price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

Sony Alpha 7c II

If you like the look of the Sony A6xxx line but want something with a full frame sensor, consider the Sony Alpha 7C II.

Somehow, Sony has managed to fit a full frame sensor into a body that is almost identical in size and weight to the A6600, making it one of the smallest full frame mirrorless cameras on the market today.

They haven’t cut corners in terms of features either. You get a 33MP sensor, 10fps shooting, in body image stabilization, 4K video, WiFi, Bluetooth, vari-angle touchscreen and weather proofing. It also has excellent animal and people tracking with Sony’s eye-tracking autofocus system.

It even manages 540 shots on a charge. A fantastic option if you want something with a full frame sensor but in a relatively compact size.

The only downside is that it can feel a bit small and fiddly in the hands. However, that is a minor niggle for what is otherwise a standout option.

Key Specifications : 10 images / second, 33 megapixel full frame sensor Weight : 514g / 18.1oz Battery life : 540 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

Canon EOS R6 Mark II

In late 2022, Canon launched the R6 Mark II to replace the already excellent R6. This features improved battery life, a slightly larger sensor, and a much faster burst shooting speed compared to the original R6.

Overall the R6 Mark II is an incredibly capable camera, and even outperforms the more expensive R5 in some areas.

It has a 24.2MP full frame sensor, autofocus that can track people, animals, and vehicles, up to a staggering 40 frames per second burst shooting, Wi-Fi & Bluetooth, 4K video, as well as a flip-out touchscreen. It’s also dust and drip-proof.

The fantastic autofocus system is brilliant on safari, as is the high burst shooting rate.

There’s a lens adaptor which will let you use all EF and EF-S Canon lenses with the camera, which opens the door to a massive choice.

The main downside is that on paper the megapixel count does feel a bit miserly when stacked up against the competition. Honestly though, we don’t think it’s that big of a deal, and it does mean that high ISO and low light performance is fantastic.

You can see our full Canon EOS R5 review here , which covers a lot of the features of the R6, to see if it might be the camera for you.

Key Specifications: 40 images / second , 24.1 megapixel full frame sensor Weight: 670g / 23.63oz Battery life: 760 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here .

Sony Alpha a7 IV

Sony effectively started the mirrorless camera revolution, and the Sony a7 IV, as the name suggests, is the fourth iteration in their excellent a7 range.

It comes with a full frame 33MP full frame sensor, flip out LCD display, a high refresh rate EVF, WiFi, 10fps burst shooting and a fast autofocus system that includes Sony’s excellent animal and people eye tracking.

It also has good battery life at 580 shots per full charge, and includes weather sealing, meaning it’s an excellent all-round camera and a solid option for safari. The burst rate is a bit slower than the Canon R6, but you do get a higher resolution sensor as a trade-off, as well as extended battery life.

Key Specifications : 10 images / second, 33 megapixel full frame sensor Weight : 659g / 23.25oz Battery life : 580 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here .

Nikon Z7 II

The Nikon Z7 II is the second iteration of the Z7 model, which is towards the upper end of Nikon’s mirrorless camera range. You get a lot for your money. There’s a 45.7MP full frame sensor, weather sealeding, tilting touch screen and it has WiFi and Bluetooth. Battery life is also good enough at 420 shots.

The main downside is reviews suggest the autofocus system, whilst good, isn’t quite up to the performance of the Sony and Canon options. A burst speed of 10 frames a second is also at the lower end in this price bracket, similar to the Sony A7 IV.

However, Nikon users will likely appreciate the familiar interface and the fact that it’s compatible with the whole range of Nikon lenses with an adaptor.

Key Specifications : 10 images / second, 45.7 megapixel full frame sensor Weight : 705g / 24.87oz Battery life : 420 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here .

Canon EOS R5

I will admit to being a little bit biased as this is the camera I actually use on a day-to-day basis, and that I have shot my most recent safaris on. I wrote a full review of the R5 here .

In summary though, I think this is a phenomenal camera. Let’s look at the specs. You get a 45 megapixel full frame sensor, with built-in image stabilization. It can shoot up to 20 frames a second. The autofocus system for tracking animals and people is truly incredible. It’s also remarkably versatile as an all-round camera, able to do everything from landscapes to wildlife.

There’s WiFi, bluetooth, a flip out touchscreen, and loads of customization options so you can set it up to work for you. It also supports 8K video, if you want to shoot video. You also get access to Canon’s massive range of lenses, including the older EF and EF-S lenses via an adaptor.

The only real downside is that it’s expensive, and the battery life at 320 shots means spare batteries are an essential purchase. Other than that though, this was my pick for my favourite camera for safari.

Key Specifications : 20 images / second, 45 megapixel full frame sensor Weight : 738g / 26.03oz Battery life : 320 shots Price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here

Safari Camera Recommendations Summary

If you are finding the above list of recommended cameras and their specifications a bit overwhelming but have a general idea of your budget and what kind of camera you want, here are some personal recommendations of the best camera for safari across budgets and types of cameras:

Best Safari Camera Under $500 : Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ80 / FZ82
Best Safari Camera under $1000: Nikon Z50
Best Safari Camera under $5000: Canon EOS R5
Best Smartphone for Safari : Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra
Best Compact Camera for Safari : Sony RX100 VII
Best Bridge Camera for Safari : Sony DSC-RX10 IV
Best Mirrorless Camera for Safar i: Canon EOS R5

Hopefully if you are having a hard time deciding, the above list will give you a good place to start your search for a specific camera.

But if you have any questions, just ask me in the comments section at the end of the article and I am happy to try to provide advice on which camera (and lens) might be best for you given your budget and what you want to do with it.

The Best Lenses for Safari

If you decide to buy a mirrorless or DSLR camera, then you are going to also need to buy a lens to go with it. Whilst some cameras may come with a lens, in most cases this won’t be ideal for safari as it won’t have sufficient reach.

There are a great many lenses on the market, and they are not generally compatible with different camera systems due to different mounting systems. If you want more background on lenses and what to look for in general, see my guide to the best lenses for travel photography , which breaks down all the terminology in detail.

I’m not going to be able to cover every lens out there, but I will provide a quick rundown of what I think are some of the best options on the market across a variety of camera systems and price points. This should give you some ideas for what to look for.

I’m going to primarily focus on longer focal lengths for wildlife photography, but do also consider bringing a wide-angle lens for the landscape opportunities as well. Ideally, for wildlife photography you want around a 400mm lens if your budget will allow for it.

I will also be recommending zoom lenses, meaning you can change the focal length, as this gives a lot more compositional control compared to a fixed focal length lens. There is a small loss in image quality and maximum aperture as a result, but this is very much worth the trade-off in my opinion for most users.

70-300mm lenses for safari

Sony, Nikon, and Canon all have at least one 70-300 lens available, which tends to be a fairly reasonably priced offering.

Most of these lenses have a variable aperture of f/4-5.6 and offer a good compromise between size, weight, image quality and affordability.

For example, see this Canon 70-300 , this Nikon 70-300 and this Sony 70-300 . This popular focal length is also available from third party manufacturers, such as with this Tamron for the Sony mount. If you are looking for a more budget safari lens, one of these is likely going to be a good pick.

300mm would be the absolute minimum I’d recommend for a lens for safari. However, I appreciate not everyone wants to spend a huge amount on camera equipment, and one of these lenses is a good way to get a reasonable reach in a relatively lightweight package.

100-400mm lenses for safari

The 100-400mm range is one of the most popular for safari photographers. 100mm lets you get quite a lot of the scene in shot, whilst 400mm will let you zoom in quite close on most subjects. Most of these lenses come with a variable aperture of around f/4.5 – f/5.6.

There’s a wide range of choice at the 100-400mm range across a number of systems. At the higher end you have the weather-sealed, heavier options like this Canon 100-400 , this Sony 100-400 and this Nikon 100-400 .

If you are willing to sacrifice your maximum aperture, you can save a bit of money with something like this Canon 100-400 f/5.6-8 for RF mount cameras, or this Sigma 100-400 f/5-6.3 .

Generally, I’d advise trying to get the widest aperture you can afford as it will make a big difference in low light situations. However, I did want to make it clear that there are options out there across a range of budgets.

Other telephoto lens options for safari.

There are of course other options that are worth considering. If you want more reach, consider the Canon 100-500 f/4.5 – 7.1 for RF mount , or the excellent Sony 200-600 f/5.6-6.3 .

If you want more reach but don’t want to spend as much, you can save money by using third party lenses from the likes of Sigma and Tamron for example. Image quality and autofocus speeds might be marginally impacted, but the price difference can be significant.

For example, check out this Tamron 150-600 f/5 – 6.3 , which is available in a range of mounts for different camera systems. You get an excellent focal range, image stabilization and weather sealing at what is a very reasonable price. Sigma also do a range of 150-600mm lenses for different mounts.

Lens and Camera Rental for Safari

A high-end camera and lens can be a very expensive investment, which might not make a lot of sense for one-off usage. You obviously want to get great photos on your trip, but buying an expensive telephoto zoom lens or high specification full frame body that you only plan to use once might not make sense.

In this case, consider renting your camera equipment. A company like Lens Rentals will allow you to rent a lens and a camera body at a much lower cost than buying it outright. They also give you the option to purchase the gear rather than return it, so if you love the experience then you can invest having tested the gear out.

This is definitely worth looking into if you want high end gear but don’t want to invest into an expensive setup for long term use. You can browse what they have available here .

If you go with Lens Rentals, you can save 15% on any rental with the code “LAURENCE15”. Just enter it at checkout to redeem.

Accessories for Safari

Now that you have your camera and lens figured out, I wanted to share some tips for what camera and photography accessories you may want to bring on safari.

Memory Cards

You are going to be taking a lot of photos when on safari. Memory cards are not very expensive these days, and it is worth having a backup memory card as well as plenty of memory.

I recommend at least a 64GB memory card. If you are travelling with a laptop then you can back up your photos as you go. If you prefer to travel light, then you will want to pack many more memory cards so you don’t run out of space on your trip.

Spare Batteries

It is definitely worth bringing at least one spare battery for your camera, and ideally two. These are easy to keep on you or in your photography bag and come in handy when you are out all day.

You don’t want to be half way through a busy day and run out of battery, and then potentially miss some great shots. Modern mirrorless cameras in particular can eat through batteries quickly, so a spare or two is definitely a must in my opinion.

USB Battery Charger / Power Pack

As well as spare batteries, you might consider bringing a USB power pack and USB powered camera battery charger . This will allow you to charge your camera batteries while on the go from the battery pack (or a USB outlet in your vehicle).

Some locations you stay at on safari may also have limited power outlet availability, especially in the more remote areas or if you are staying in tented camps. In these scenarios, they often have USB power outlets from solar panels, but might not have higher voltage outlets.

In these situations, a USB battery charger for your camera batteries will be invaluable. I travel with both a USB battery pack and a USB powered battery charger for my Canon camera batteries, and it has come in handy many times.

Monopod / Tripod

A common question is whether or not you should take a tripod on safari. I would say that in general, for wildlife photography from a vehicle, a tripod is not going to be very useful. There likely won’t be enough room to set it up unless you have a vehicle specifically set up for it.

Another option is a monopod, which is certainly something to consider, depending on your vehicle configuration. If you are also likely to be doing foot-based safaris and have big lenses, then a monopod is definitely something to consider.

For example, I used a monopod when shooting chimpanzees in Uganda, a trip which required a hike through the jungle. A monopod allows for very quick movement of your camera, often necessary in wildlife photography, whilst still taking most of the weight off your shoulders.

A good option if you want to pack a tripod for your safari trip but are maybe also thinking you may want a monopod is to bring a travel tripod that can convert to a monopod such as the recent VEO 3 range from Vanguard .

I’ve been an ambassador for Vanguard for many years now. If you see something on their store that works for your equipment, you can save money using our exclusive Vanguard discount code. This will give you 20% off everything in the Vanguard store.

Just use the code FindingTheUniverse for your discount! This code works in the Vanguard USA, UK, Australia, Spain, and Germany stores.

Photography Bean Bag

For vehicle-based photography, the most useful accessory in my opinion is a photography bean bag rather than a tripod or monopod. I used these every day we did vehicle safaris on our recent trip.

Photography bean bags can be placed on the roof of the vehicle for use when looking out a pop-up top, or over a window or window sill for in-vehicle use.

Photography bean bags are normally made out of a durable canvas (or similar material), and have a zipped opening so you can add or remove the contents. These can be polystyrene beads, or you can simply fill them with something environmentally friendly like dried kidney beans when you arrive in a destination.

I used a photography bean bag extensively on my safari trips, and they are really an invaluable item. We have a guide to some of the best options photography bean bags here , but recommend checking out either the Kinesis SafariSack 4.2 or LensCoat LensSack Pro Jr as a starting point.

Appropriate Clothing

Whilst this isn’t camera specific, having the right clothing for your safari can improve your overall experience. If you are comfortable and prepared for the weather, you are also likely to get better photos.

Personally, I prefer clothes with lots of pockets where I can store things like spare batteries, lens wipes and lens caps. Most safaris tend to be hot, so you also want lightweight clothing.

A vest is a popular option for photographers such as those by ScotteVest , and I own a couple of these vests. They are great for travel days and airports as well.

But my preference on safari are the safari focused shirts from the brand Craghoppers . These have a range of features for travel, including being quick-drying and sun proof.

They are really lightweight, and are available in safari appropriate colors (light greens and beige are good, blue and black are bad if going to teste fly infested areas). Some models, like the NosiLife line, even come with built-in insect repellent.

The main thing I love about them though is that they have lots of pockets and so it’s easy for me to quickly access a spare camera battery without having to root around in my bag. You can get them from the official Craghoppers store here as well as on REI in the US here and on Amazon here .

For more packing tips, see our detailed guide to what to pack for safari .

Comfortable Camera Strap

A safari trip is going to involve you carrying and using your camera a lot. You are likely going to be bumping along on dirt roads, sticking your head out of the safari vehicle, and hiking along in forests during your trip. So you want to make sure you have both a secure and comfortable camera strap.

It is likely that your camera came with a manufacturer branded strap such as one from Canon or Nikon. This strap may be fine for some people. For others, especially if you have a heavy camera setup, it may not provide enough support or comfort.

I personally use Peak Design straps, as I find them much more comfortable than a standard camera strap. You can purchase them from Peak Design here , as well as on Amazon or B&H Photo .

A Good Camera Bag

A safari can be a dusty and bumpy experience, two things that can cause damage to cameras and lenses. To protect your gear in between shoots, I highly recommend getting a good camera bag.

Camera bags are specially designed to provide padding and protection for your gear, and many of them also come with rain covers. This means that you have somewhere safe, protected and padded to put your gear.

Personally, I use Vanguard photography bags and I’ve been an ambassador for Vanguard for many years now. If you see something on their store that works for your equipment, you can save money using our exclusive Vanguard discount code. This will give you 20% off everything in the Vanguard store.

There are of course a range of other camera bags available, you can see the options on Amazon here and B&H Photo here .

Camera Cleaning Kit

No matter how well you protect your camera and lens, it is inevitable that it is going to get some dust or dirt on it. To help keep it clean, I recommend picking up a camera cleaning kit. These are normally fairly inexpensive and some come with carrying cases which are handy for travel.

They can come with a range of different items. My recommendation is to get one which includes a blower and a lens cloth like this , which will make it easier to remove the dust.

Looking to Improve Your Photography?

If you found this post helpful, and you want to improve your photography overall, you might want to check out my online travel photography course .

Since launching the course in 2016, I’ve already helped over 2,000 students learn how to take better photos. The course covers pretty much everything you need to know, from the basics of how a camera works, through to composition, light, and photo editing.

It also covers more advanced topics, including astrophotography, long exposure photography, flash photography, and HDR photography.

You get feedback from me as you progress, access to webinars, interviews and videos, as well as exclusive membership of a Facebook group where you can get feedback on your work and take part in regular challenges.

It’s available for an amazing one-off price for lifetime access, and I think you should check it out. Which you can do by clicking here .

And that’s it! I’d love to hear about your thoughts on wildlife photography on safari, and am happy to answer any questions you have. Just pop them in the comments below and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.

A detailed guide to the best cameras for safari, with what to look for as well a guide to lenses and accessories for safari photography

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Virginia Bechtold says

31st December 2023 at 1:59 am

Hi! Thank you for amazingly detailed offering of information! Not sure if my previous comment/question posted.

Going to Kenya on safari in a few weeks. Looking for a dummy proof camera for my 77 year old mother and I to take high quality photos of wildlife and scenery in all light situations with not a lot of effort/programming. Would like to spend under $1K.

From my notes, it seems like the following are good bets? Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ300 Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ80 Panasonic Lumix ZS200 Canon Powershot SX70 HS Panasonic FZ1000 II Panasonic Lumix FZ 2500 (Gathered from this safari list and the best travel camera list)

Still need some help deciding, thanks in advance for your guidance! I hate making decisions!!! Virginia

Thank you in advance for the guidance!!! Virginia

Laurence Norah says

31st December 2023 at 10:21 pm

Hi Virgina!

It’s lovely to hear from you. So I would say, from your list and based on your requirements, that the Panasonic FZ1000 II would probably be the best option. It has a 1-inch sensor and a wide aperture, which means it will performer better in low light than many of the other options. So I think that’s probably the one I would go for. If you put it in Auto mode it should be fine for the majority of situations I would say.

I hope this helps, have an amazing time on safari and let me know if you have any more questions!

Alessia Sacchi says

27th October 2023 at 9:20 pm

Hello Laurence, Your posts are just fantastic. I love how you write, crystal clear, easy wording. Please keep writing, we have so much to learn from you. I would really appreciate some advice from you in regards to my next safari in Zambia. I have had a Sony Nex 5R since 2013 which I love, the main issue is the lack of the view finder. I am fond of wildlife photography and under certain circumstances I am struggling to use the LCD. I have two lenses: sony 10-105 and sony 55-210. I am looking at the sony 100-400 combined with a full frame. What would you suggest me? I am leaving in 3 weeks time and I am also a bit concerned I might not have enough time to learn howo use the new setup. however I am concerned the 55-210 won’t be enough. what do you think? thank you so much !Alessia

27th October 2023 at 9:59 pm

Hi Alessia!

It’s my pleasure and I am glad you found my content useful. So the NEX 5R is definitely getting a bit older now. You will definitely notice a massive improvement in areas like autofocus speed and low light performance if you switch up to a newer Sony full frame. In terms of focal length, for safari 210mm is going to be on the edge of what is useful. With a crop sensor like you have at the moment it’s ok, but if you step up to full frame I’d say the 100-400 would be a great choice.

In terms of the learning curve, there will be a bit of a change but if you stay in the Sony system it should be easier as the menus etc will be familiar. The main system you will want to master will be the autofocus system – knowing how to set it up to track eyes, and how to override it in the rare cases it gets it wrong. It’s also handy having an understanding of how to adjust shutter speed, ISO and aperture quickly, as you can go from stationary animals (where a lower shutter speed is ok) to fast moving animals (where you want a fast shutter speed) in quite a short time period.

I think a safari tends to be a once in a lifetime, or at least, a not very often experience, and having a camera that can do it justice is a worthwhile investment 🙂 If you are able to spend a good amount of time in the coming weeks trying to get practice with local wildlife (even a domestic cat or birds outside), then this should help.

Let me know if you have any more questions, and have an amazing time on safari!

Joao Nabais says

27th June 2023 at 4:55 pm

Do you have any examples with a lens of 70-300mm? I’m thinking on getting the eos 250d with EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6, but would like to see some zoomed photos of animals with a similar setup.

27th June 2023 at 5:29 pm

I don’t have that specific setup to share photos from, but the good news is that you should be able to find those sorts of images on flickr, using their camera search feature.

For example, this page of search results show photos taken with an EOS 250D, with the additional filter of “300”.

Lots of images come up that should meet your requirements, including this one and this one .

Hope this helps!

Barry Ritter says

12th June 2023 at 3:30 pm

Excellent article! There are four points that I’d like to add:

– Weight. The article did not mention weight but it can become a factor when spending a long day in the field. An advantage of a mirrorless is that it weighs less than a traditional DSLR but it will require a larger budget. Mirrorless can offer (in the right hands) a sharper focused image, but often other than close-ups, most people viewing your images will not notice the difference. – For many travelers, this is a trip of a lifetime, and rather than purchasing an expensive gear set-up you can rent all or some of the equipment for this trip. It will save money and avoid the investment if you don’t have a long-term need for the equipment. With improvements in post-processing in the last year or two, many “flaws” in your images can be resolved and you can still end up with once-in-a-lifetime images. – Lastly and most important, don’t get lost in the technical stuff around taking pictures. You will miss much of the adventure of a safari.

14th June 2023 at 2:51 pm

These are great tips! I will definitely incorporate some of these suggestions into the article 🙂 I did already cover lens / camera rental as I think that can be a great option, and I touched on weight briefly when covering the different types of camera but that could be expanded on.

I also thoroughly agree with the final point. You don’t want to end up watching your safari experience through a screen or viewfinder. Definitely get the photos you want, but I don’t think that should be the main focus.

Thanks again for your input!

Amy G. says

2nd June 2023 at 4:22 am

Hi Laurence, This article has been amazingly helpful. We are heading this summer to the KAZA region for a 10-day safari, 3 days of which will be on a river boat. We have an additional 6 days in and around Cape Town. I was looking at the Sony RX10 IV as a great camera for this trip, but noticed that the Lumix FZ 2500 has most of the same features for half the price here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/compare/Panasonic_DMC-FZ2500_vs_Sony_DSC-RX10+IV/BHitems/1280827-REG_1361560-REG Do you know why there is such a price differential? Is the Sony worth it, or should I go for the Lumix? (no time to wait for new models) Thank you!

2nd June 2023 at 4:53 pm

So there are some differences between the two, but probably not enough to justify the price difference. Autofocus might be a bit faster on the Sony and you can focus closer, plus there’s a bit more zoom. However, as is often the case with photography gear, there is a law of dimishing returns. Spending twice as much doesn’t normally yield gear that is twice as good! So I would say the Panasonic would be a great option as well 🙂

Have an amazing safari!

Lauren B says

21st May 2023 at 6:20 am

Hi Laurence,

This article is the most helpful I’ve seen! Thank you. But I’m still a bit lost and hoping you can steer me in the right direction…

I currently have a 13-year-old cannon rebel (t1i) with a 18-55 and 70-300 lens. I’m an amateur/hobby photographer, took photography classes through high school/college and for the past 10+ years (aside from a few trips) my camera has mostly lived in a closet.

I’m going on a safari next month and have been back and forth on the sonyrx10 bridge camera (probably a used one to save a bit of money), or if I should replace my cannon body for a newer model (maybe the t8i) and use the lenses I have already or if I do that will I still need a longer zoom lens? Or if I should go in a completely different direction that I haven’t thought about yet?

I follow a number of wildlife photographers and my goal is to take a couple of great photos that I can print in large-format for my home and be able to hang my own art rather than having to spend the money on someone else’s, so quality is very important.

That said, I know that after this trip this camera will spend most of its future life in a closet (I thought about renting but because it’s a 14-day trip, it’s more economical to buy, plus then I’ll have it for the future), so I don’t want to go too crazy in my spending. And we will be flying on those tiny planes, so weight is an issue.

Extremely interested in your opinion.

Thanks! Lauren

21st May 2023 at 4:46 pm

Hey Lauren,

My pleasure. So this is a good question. I’d say that the Sony is going to be easier to use and give you more zoom. In terms of image quality, between that and say a t8i there’s probably not going to be a lot in it. The RX10 will have better autofocus and faster burst performance, so it’s going to give you better safari results. To get a major step up in quality / performance whilst staying with Canon you’d need to be looking at one of their newer mirrorless cameras like the EOS R10 or the R7. However that might be outside your budget. Those would work with your existing lenses (with the RF adaptor), but honestly, I think you will likely find the RX10 to be a better all round solution as you wouldn’t need a new zoom lens as well.

I hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions!

Lauren says

21st May 2023 at 5:01 pm

Thanks so much! This has been most helpful.

21st May 2023 at 5:31 pm

It’s my pleasure! Have an amazing time on safari 🙂

Michael says

4th May 2023 at 2:54 am

Thanks for the great informative article. I am going to Kenya on safari during the summer and am struggling between acquiring a Canon R6 Mark II or a Canon R7. I had been using a Rebel T2i for over 10 years but it no longer works. I have both EF as well as EF-S lenses. Specifically, I have an EF 100mm-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L. While I like the reach of the R7 (and the price), I am not sure where to compromise most (I have considered getting a speed booster if I get the R7 to mock a full frame when doing landscapes, etc. and maybe get the best of both worlds (but am not sure if that is really effective or just a bit of a gimmick)). The low light capabilities and the better auto-focus/tracking on the R6 Mark II are very attractive in theory, however I do not know how much better they are than the R7 (and how much better they would be for the specific purpose of this safari). Mostly, I am concerned that the lower megapixel count on the R6 Mark II will be problematic and limiting (or maybe this is just a red herring and 24 MP is more than sufficient). If I had one camera to bring on safari in Kenya (and use as my primary thereafter for whatever life throws my way), which of the two would you recommend? Thanks.

4th May 2023 at 6:22 pm

Hi Michael,

My pleasure. So personally I would go with the R6 Mark II. The larger sensor is going to make much more of a difference in the difficult low light situations you often find yourself facing when on safari (dawn and dusk being the best time for wildlife viewing). The megapixel difference of 24.2 vs 32.5 is honestly negligible. 24.2 MP works out to a 6000×4000 pixel image, whilst 32.5 is 6960 x 4640. So you are only looking at 960 extra pixels in width and 640 in height. It’s not going to make a huge difference, and the larger sensor on the R6 Mark II will make much more of a difference in my opinion. The ISO performance on the R6 is also better.

Either camera will of course be a massive upgrade from the T2i, especially when it comes to things like the autofocus and shooting speed, and the image stabilization will be handy as well. One thing I would say is that you should expect to factor in a bit of learning time, whatever camera you go for. I upgraded from a 6D to the R5 and whilst a lot remains the same, there was still quite a learning curve moving to the Canon mirrorless system. I love it, but it took me a little while to get comfortable, especially with the autofocus system.

Happy to answer any more questions you might have and have an amazing time in Kenya!

Melissa says

9th March 2023 at 4:58 am

Hi! I’m struggling to decide what camera to get. I was originally thinking the Sony Rx10 iv however, I saw the Sony 200-600mm lens and thought that on like the Sony A6600 body might be more what I’m looking for. I’ve always had bridge cameras, but Im wondering if it’s worth the jump to the mirror less to learn. I am typically in a vehicle when I see wildlife I want to photograph and I want my pictures to look very clear when I am at a distance. I was thinking I could use my iPhone as just a more landscape kind of camera. Thoughts? I did see that there’s rumors of another ASP-C camera coming out soon. I also noticed that the Sony a7 iii is on sale that has the larger sensor. Thanks so much for your great article!

10th March 2023 at 9:49 am

Hey Melissa!

So this is a tricky question to answer because a lot of the decision will come down to what you are willing to carry. The RX10 IV is going to be a much more compact setup compared to even a smaller mirrorless body like the A6600 and the 200-600. That said, the sensor in the a6600 is a lot bigger, and the resolving power of the lens will be greater. So you will get better results, especially in lower light situations (very common on safari when you are often shooting in early morning and early evening when the light is fading).

The A7 III is also of course another option. If it was me, I would probably go for the A7 III as I personally feel that the image quality and low light capabilities of a full frame sensor are more important than weight, but that’s a personal choice.

If you have the opportunity to visit a store and try out one of these cameras with the 200-600 lens you can get a feel for the weight and how it feels.

In terms of using the iPhone as a landscape camera, that will definitely be an option. You could also use it for when the animals come closer, which can definitely happen on safari. But it should be fine in those situations for sure, and save you switching lenses around (not normally a great idea in the dusty environment of a safari).

You are correct that there are rumours around a new APS-C Sony camera, likely around to be released around summer. So if you are not in a rush that is something you might want to wait for, if only because even if you don’t get it it will likely push prices of the older cameras down. But I would definitely suggest whatever you get to make sure you leave some time to learn how to use it before you go on safari, you don’t want to miss a shot because you are learning on the go if that makes sense.

Let me know if you have any more questions, I’m happy to help!

Janez Zavrl says

6th February 2023 at 4:50 pm

Dear Laurence, I’m planning a Safari trip in September. I read your article and tips. I’m really impressed. I have one question. I own Olympus E-30 with 2 lenses 3/4 12-60mm 1:2,8-4 and 50-200mm 1:2,8-3,5. Since the camera has Image Stabilisation, do you think, this is a sound system or should I consider investing for example in Nikon Coolpix P1000 which has very nice reviews? Thanks, Janez

9th February 2023 at 8:28 am

This is a good question. So the E-30 is definitely an older camera now, although there is a lot to be said for familiarity when it comes to photography, so if you are used to the camera and how it works then you might get better results than if you invested in a new system that you are not as familiar with. That said, the P1000 will give you a lot more versatility, especially when it comes to being able to zoom in on further away wildlife compared to your existing system. My recommendation would be to take your existing setup and try to photograph some wildlife around your home. Try and photograph things like birds or even pets. See how well the camera performs in terms of tracking the autofocus, and check the results are how you would expect. If you find you regularly miss shots due to slow focus or not having enough zoom, then an upgrade might be a good idea.

I hope this helps! Let me know if I can offer any more advice, I am happy to help. Otherwise, have an amazing safari!

9th February 2023 at 5:37 pm

Thanks for the advice Laurance. I think it’s a fair comment. In a way, I’m very satisfied with my current system and I will do more work on how to get the most out of the system. I just read one nice recommendation from a famous s photographer from Slovenia, Arne Hodalič http://www.arnehodalic.com/ . For good photography, you don need the best camera. A good photo is created in our brain, the camera is only an extension of our thoughts, knowledge and experiences.

Rachel Phillips says

29th December 2022 at 3:27 pm

Thank you for such an incredible summary Laurence

I am trying to decide if it’s worth spending money on a new lens for my Sony alpha 7, for a planned safari this summer to have a greater zoom

I use a tamron lens, 17mm-28mm f2.8 for landscapes and a sony 24-240 f4.5-4 (wt 780) for sports and wildlife.

I don’t want anything too heavy, or too expensive.

Would it be worth buying the Sony 70-350 f4.5-6.3 (wt 625) or tamron 50-400 f 5-6.7 ( wt 1150) instead of what I have now. I want a zoom closer to 400mm but will be sacrificing aperture with the lenses I am considering.

I have a tripod to help when lower light , but I won’t be able to use it most of the time

I am also aware that I could have a gap from 28 to 50 or 70 that I might need to fill.

Thanks in advance

29th December 2022 at 3:41 pm

It’s my pleasure! So I would definitely say that you are going to have more flexibility in terms of what you can take photos of if you take a longer lens. So I would definitely recommend ideally 400mm, although more can be helpful.

I would probably suggest considering either the Sigma 150-600 f/5-6.3 or the Tamron 50-400 f/4.5-6.3. I would personally lean more towards the former as it gives you greater reach, which is really the goal of a telephoto lens.

In terms of aperture, this is unfortunately a downside of a longer lens. Even the most expensive prime telephoto lenses tend to top out at f/4. As you will need to be using faster shutter speeds for wildlife in general, the only solution is to use higher ISO settings. The good news it that modern camera sensors are pretty competent even at ISO’s of 3200 and higher, so you can still get great images at those ISO levels. I shot gorillas at ISO 12800 on my Canon R5 and the images turned out very good. And these days, noise reduction software like these products I review can improve most images for a pretty low price.

In terms of the gap, yes, that is something to think about. Personally I shoot with a 16-35 and a 100-400 when on safari, and I don’t really notice the gap. With a high megapixel sensor you can generally crop in if you need to, and 100mm was “wide” enough to be usable.

I hope this helps a bit, but do let me know if you’d like any further help, I’m happy to offer advice of course. Otherwise, have a wonderful safari and an awesome year!

Sally Bignell says

19th November 2022 at 9:05 am

Oh my goodness Laurence, what a brilliant article. Thanks so much. Even I can understand (most of) what you’ve outlined, so I have a question if I may.

I’ve had an ‘all of the gear with no idea’ camera set up previously. Meaty camera, lenses etc and while I was okay using it as a point and shoot, I didn’t do much else with it. But it took amazing photos.

I’m off on safari next year, and I’d like to get a good bridge camera for photographing all the amazing animals I desperately hope to see. Between now and then I intend learning how to use the camera properly, so I’m well prepared when we go away.

Is there much difference between the Panasonic FZ330 and the Sony DSC RX10vi? The monetary difference is vast, so it’d be good to know if the Sony is genuinely worth the extra?

Any help gratefully received, thank you

19th November 2022 at 4:35 pm

Thank you so much, it’s appreciated! I definitely agree that having a camera that suits the way you plan to use it is a great option, which is why a bridge camera is the right camera for many people. That’s especially the case on safari where that long lens can make all the difference.

So the RX10 is definitely a much superior camera compared to the FZ330. The biggest difference that will make the most impact is the size of the sensor. That’s going to give you better image quality and better performance in low light. As safari often involves shooting around dawn and dusk, that can be a big difference. The Sony also has an improved autofocus system, so should let you lock onto targets more accurately.

All that said, I would say that the price difference doesn’t necessarily reflect the quality difference, as it often the case. The price might suggest it is four times better, but it’s probably more like twice as good. Sadly, diminishing returns and a lack of real competition at that level mean that it is just priced highly. It is definitely a great camera, but you will also get good results with the Panasonic in most situations. And if you don’t have both to compare between, I feel you would definitely be happy with something like the FZ330.

I hope this helps some! I would also add that rumors have been swirling about an RX10 V. Nothing has been announced and it’s all quite speculative, but if you are not in a hurry it might be worth holding off for a couple of months to see if they come to anything, as that could either be a better deal, or result in the IV going on sale 🙂

Have a great safari!

19th November 2022 at 4:55 pm

Thanks Laurence. I’m not in a desperate rush, so will hold off for the time being, and wait and see what happens with a possible Mk V leading to a price drop on the VI. Hubby has the FZ330 (only found that out today!) and he took it on our last great adventure. It did a pretty good job, but my similar pics with my old set up were better quality (don’t tell him I said that). So I think it’ll be the Sony for me! Keep up the excellent info blogs, and love the life you’re living! Sally

19th November 2022 at 4:59 pm

It’s my pleasure, and thanks again. If you already have the FZ330 then that’s great as you can compare the images. No bridge camera is going to be quite as good as a high end setup, but the RX 10 definitely comes closer and at a fraction of the cost. A 600mm f/4 lens would set you back five figures!

Feel free to stop by and ask a question any time!

5th May 2023 at 5:42 pm

Hi again Laurence. It’s been 6 months since our last exchange and sadly no Sony Rx10 V has appeared on the scene. I think I’m going to have to bite the bullet and buy a camera, so I can learn how to use it. Question, in your opinion would you purchase a second hand RX10 iv (around £1k), or a new Canon SX70HS (around £570)? This is for an African safari, so early morning / late evening photography of likely far-distant animals and birds

9th May 2023 at 5:23 pm

Yeah, it seems Sony are dragging their feet on this one. So personally I’d probably opt for the second hand RX10. The larger sensor will make a difference as will the more powerful autofocus and wider aperture. So I would go with that if your budget will stretch to it.

Have a great safari and let me know if you have any more questions!

26th September 2022 at 3:44 am

Hey – I’m driving myself crazy trying to decide between the Panasonic Lumix FZ1000 II or the Sony RX10 for safari in Uganda and Kenya. Will the superior construction of the Sony really make it worthwhile to spend 2x what the Lumix costs? What does the weatherproofing really, truly, mean?

26th September 2022 at 9:40 am

So there are quite a few differences between the Sony and the Panasonic other than the weather sealing. The Sony has better optics, so images tend to be sharper corner to corner than the Panasonic. You also get more zoom, 600mm equivalent vs 400mm, although 400mm is good for most scenarios except the more distant subjects and smaller birds. The autofocus system and burst speeds on the Sony are also improved over the Panasonic. The Sony is also a bit heavier.

So overall it is a better camera, although photography gear tends to work in terms of diminishing returns, so I would not say it is twice as good as the price might suggest. Both are good cameras and would work well on safari.

In terms of weatherproofing, Sony (and most manufacturers honestly), tend to be a bit coy about what that really means, and there’s no actual standard that it is measured against. So yes, it will withstand a bit more moisture and dust and it will have some seals in key areas to help protect against and moisture and dust ingression, but really you don’t want to get it particularly wet or dusty. So I wouldn’t see that as the key difference to be honest.

20th September 2022 at 8:26 pm

I am driving myself nuts trying to decide between a Canon R6 and Sony A7 iv. We are going to Uganda, Tanzania, and Victoria Falls, so I wanted a camera that will take great wildlife and landscape pictures. As a novice, I am also afraid these might be too much camera for me, but I want the chance to grow. Maybe the R7? I’m also worried about the battery life of the R6 and lens size in general since our baggage size/weight is limited. Your thoughts?

Thank you! Cara

20th September 2022 at 8:49 pm

I understand your confusion! So the reality is that both the R6 and A7 IV are going to produce amazing photos. Honestly, most cameras at that level are pretty amazing these days. They both have great autofocus systems that will track and lock onto animals eyes, and they also both have good dynamic range for landscapes. The Sony does have a higher megapixel count, 33MP, vs the 20MP of the Canon R6. So that will give you images that are 7008 x 4672, vs the 5472 x 3648 of the Canon. Honestly, again, that’s not a massive difference, just an extra 1500 pixels in width and 1000 in height.

The R7 is also a good camera, with pretty much the same tech as the R6, and the main difference being it is a crop sensor. That will lose you some low light performance, but means you get more zoom from the same lens due to the crop factor.

Weight wise, the R7 is not really that much smaller and lighter than the R6 or A7, especially once you add in the lens. The Sony definitely does have better battery life than either of the Canons.

If I was you I would try to visit a store which as the R6 and the A7 IV and compare them in your hand to see which one you prefer the feel of. On paper I would probably lean towards the A7 IV, improved battery life and a slightly higher resolution can be beneficial. However, in the field I don’t think you would notice any significant image quality difference, and so if one feels better than the other that is definitely important.

You also need to budget for a good lens, and if either the R6 or Sony make that less feasible, then the R7 might be a good option so you can get a good wildlife lens. So just check that whatever lens you want is available in your budget for the camera you choose.

I hope this helps! I’ll be heading back to Uganda soon and can’t wait 🙂 Let me know if you have any more questions, I’m happy to help 🙂

25th September 2022 at 5:23 pm

Thank you so much! I have visited our local camera store twice and am definitely leaning towards the A7. However, I do want to make sure I pick the right – good enough – lens. I was trying to decide between the Sony 70-300 or the Tamron 70-300 you linked to above. Are they both meant for full-frame cameras? Is the Sony worth the extra expense? The camera rep was trying to steer me towards a cropped lens. Am I mistaken thinking that seems like a waste on a camera like the A7?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Cara

25th September 2022 at 6:28 pm

My pleasure! So the A7 is a great camera. I’m not sure which model you are thinking of, but honestly they are all pretty awesome for safari photography.

To answer your question, yes, both the Sony and Tamron 70-300 are designed for full frame sensors, so you won’t get any crop when you use them. Sony does allow you to use cropped cameras on their full frame mount, but the end result is that you’ll only end up using a part of the sensor and you’ll end up with a much lower megapixel image. This gives the impression of zooming in, but it’s not really a zoom because you end up losing the megapixels. So no, I’d not really recommend doing that.

In terms of the difference, Sony lenses tend to be more expensive than third party lenses. The Sony has the advantage of a wider aperture when fully zoomed in (5.6 vs 6.3), so will perform marginally better in low light. The Sony also has image stabilization, although as the Sony camera has in body image stabilization, that’s not a big deal. The Sony is also significantly heavier. In terms of image quality, most reviews suggest that image quality is honestly pretty similar.

So yes, I think the Tamron would probably be a solid pick at that focal length!

Let me know if you have any more questions 🙂

Olivia Yao says

18th August 2022 at 7:19 pm

Hi Laurence, thank you so much for putting this informative article together. I am considering buying the Sony A6400 (APS-C) with a Sony SEL 70300G. I use my Iphone when I travel and I’m happy with it, but I felt the need to buy a new camera for our safari trip to be able to capture the experience better. Do you think this is a good choice? I was also looking at Nikon Coolpix 1000 or Sony XR 10 IV (no stock in the Philippines). I hope the Sony I’m considering will produce better photos and easy to use.

Appreciate your comment.

19th August 2022 at 10:17 am

My pleasure! So an iPhone can definitely take good photos, but it will struggle with wildlife unless the wildlife is very close, which is normally not the case. So a good camera with a long lens is a good option.

I would definitely say that the A6400 with the lens you mention would be a good choice. You get a bigger sensor than the Nikon and Sony, which will make it more effective in lower light and for faster action shots where you need a higher shutter speed. The 300mm reach at the long end is equivalent to 450mm, which should be fine for most photography. I primarily shoot and travel with a 100-400mm lens, so I think you will be fine. The Sony RX10 IV has a 600mm equivalent lens, and the difference is not so great. The Nikon has much longer reach but a much smaller sensor, and I think you will get better overall results from the A6400. You also have the option to use other lenses, such as the Sigma 150-600, which would give you even more reach if you wanted!

Have a great safari, and let me know if you have any more questions, I’m happy to help!

20th July 2022 at 9:04 am

Great, comprehensive article. Since you have point and shoot and bridge cameras, you might as well add Micro 4/3s to the mix. Olympus in particular has has excellent weather sealing. They also tend to be smaller and lighter than DSLRs. I recently picked up a Oly M5 mark ii as a second body for $300 used. Combine that with the very capable Panasonic 100-300F5.6 mk ii (another $400 or so) and you have a very good package. Not the same as the Oly 300F4, but by orders of magnitude sharper than a Canon 75-300. With the 2x crop factor, the 300mm lens on the M43 body has an equivalent Field of View as a 600mm lens on a full frame. The R7 is currently my favorite for wildlife though, but also more money with an appropriate lens. By the way your definition of aperture is a little wonky 😉 The f-stop is a factor between the focal length and the “size of the hole” (a.k.a. front element). So a 70-200F2.8 has the same aperture as a 100-400F5.6. Both approximately 71mm front element diameter. Same with the Canon RF100-500F7.1. Still the same aperture. Of course a 200mm F4 has a smaller hole (half the light) than a 200F2.8, but the f-stop is always in relation to the focal length. Cheers

21st July 2022 at 7:39 pm

Thanks for your input, and yes, that is an excellent point. I will definitely revise and update this camera to include some mirrorless options. I have a Pansonic GX8 myself, so I know the strengths of the platform. I’m on a trip right now so it will be a few weeks before I get round to it, but it’s on my to-do list!

Mary Gibson says

28th May 2022 at 5:53 pm

Laurence, thank you SO much for your excellent post! My gosh! I’ve spent a couple of days researching “the best safari cameras” for an upcoming trip…and then I found yours. Comprehensive and clear; can’t ask for more.

We are heading to Rwanda (mountain gorillas, golden monkeys) and Tanzania (basically, everything) mid-August. I’ve been using an FZ2500 for a few years now, and almost always use Manual mode, although I would classify myself as a novice photographer. I edit using Lightroom.

The FZ2500 seems to meet most of your ‘minimums’ (i.e., sensor size, optical zoom, aperture, megapixel, burst speed) but is not weather sealed. I have a LowePro camera bag, with a rain cover. I will look for a cameral cleaning kit, based on your blog.

My research was to help me decide whether the FZ2500 would be adequate for this ‘trip of a lifetime’. My sense is that it should be. Do you have any comments?

29th May 2022 at 9:46 am

Thanks so much for your kind comment! That sounds like a fantastic trip you have planned. I would definitely say that the FZ2500 should be fine for your trip. Weather sealing is nice, but not critical, especially if you have a good camera bag. I’d also add that the benefit of familiarity with a camera cannot be overstated, this means that you can focus more on getting the shot than wondering which button is where. It sounds like you have that, so I think you will be happy.

You might also want to check out a couple of my other posts which might give you some photography related tips, one on gorilla trekking (in Uganda, but the same principles apply), and then safari photography tips in general.

Have a great trip, and let me know if you have any more questions!

4th May 2022 at 2:06 am

Hi Laurence – thanks for posting this information, it’s super helpful. I currently have a Panasonic ZS60. I wondered if I needed to upgrade my camera for my upcoming safari trip. I had considered the FZ300 as my Safari/trip camera, but when I looked at it, it seemed quite similar to what I had (similar sensor, zoom etc.). I would like to be able to print some photos (landscape, animals and family) upon our return to 8×10 or larger. I’ve had DSLRs in the past (and on safari) and found them bulky to carry around. Also I never ended up using them much b/c of the size.

Is moving up in sensor size going to improve printability and crispness of shots much more? I’ve attempted to print with the ZS60 and it’s mixed results.

Aside from this trip, I use my camera whilst travelling, with family (kids play loads of sports and candids). I also like to take landscape pictures.

So is it worth moving up in sensor?

Thanks, Izzy.

5th May 2022 at 10:01 am

So I don’t think you’ll notice a huge difference moving to the FZ300 from the ZS60, if anything the smaller megapixel count will make your prints slightly less sharp.

A larger sensor will however definitely make a difference. There’s a really helpful tool here which lets you load up different cameras and compare performance on a single shot. I’ve preloaded that with the ZS60, FZ300, Sony RX10IV (1 inch sensor) and Lumix FZ1000 (1 inch sensor). If you move around the top example image, especially over text and people’s faces, you’ll see the difference in sharpness and clarity. You can also download the JPEG files for printing for your own comparison.

In summary, I think a larger sensor bridge camera would likely make a difference 🙂 Let me know if I can help any more!

Almeera says

3rd May 2022 at 4:30 am

Hi Laurence, I am considering the FZ300 as my Safari/trip camera, as opposed to the FZ80. Or the FS70. Do you think the sacrifice of megapixels will matter for this purpose? The FZ300 has a faster lens, is weather sealed, and has a stronger flash.

I am a traveler, who typically wants to be able to have my camera in my daypack or handbag, and I have an iPhone 13pro max, as well as a Sony a5100 w/ 16-55mm lens as back ups.

Any advice you provide would be welcome.

3rd May 2022 at 11:15 am

Hi Almeera,

So honestly no, I don’t think the sacrifice of megapixels will make a massive difference. 12 megapixels is still 4000 pixels by 3000 pixels, which is enough for most uses. My first DSLR had a 10MP sensor, and I’ve been more than happy even with fairly large prints from that! The main advantage of more megapixels is that you can obviously crop down more, but with a 600mm lens equivalent you should be able to get most of the shots you want without needing to crop anyway. So I think this would definitely work 🙂

Let me know if you have any more questions, and have a great safari/trip!

19th April 2022 at 3:01 pm

Hi there Laurence and thanks for this great post.

I’m thinking about the Sony Cyber‑Shot RX10 IV which you recommend for those looking for a bridge camera for safari. I have an older Nikon SLR with some heavy lenses but want something lighter for an upcoming trip that will include time in Ethiopia and Kenya.

Just wondering your thoughts on going from a digital SLR to a bridge camera? Any tips for using a bridge camera for safari and wildlife shooting?

19th April 2022 at 4:13 pm

It’s my pleasure, thank you for your kind words.

So there are a few things to just keep in mind coming from a digital SLR to a bridge camera.

First, the sensor size is obviously a lot smaller. Compared to an APS-C sensor it’s about a third the area, and compared to a full frame sensor it’s about a seventh the area. That means that all else being equal, low light performance is going to be a bit reduced. For most safari scenarios this shouldn’t be a big issue as there’s normally plenty of light, but at dusk and dawn you will want to pay close attention to shutter speed and ISO to ensure you get results you are happy with.

If you are used to using longer lenses then you will likely already be used to using higher shutter speeds, but I did want to just point out that at the 600mm equivalent zoom you will want to be using faster shutter speeds to compensate for the long zoom if hand holding. The RX10 does have an Auto ISO feature which offer auto shutter speed adjustment which is linked to focal length when shooting in aperture priority, which can help ensure you get sharp images without having to think about it too much.

I’d recommend shooting in RAW if you don’t already, so you get more latitude over your processing. If you use higher ISO numbers, you might also consider a dedicated noise reduction tool for cleaning those up.

Overall the switch should not be too hard to deal with. The RX10 is a lovely camera and the autofocus in particular is excellent. I would recommend practicing with it on local wildlife so you see how it works, and also to learn how to override it if necessary for those edge cases where it picks the wrong subject.

Let me know if you have any more questions, I’m happy to help. Also, have an amazing trip!