bmw e36 cruise control light

chrisparente.com

Restoring cruise control on an e36 m3.

This weekend I tackled a problem I’d put off addressing for some time. The cruise control had stopped working on my 1999 BMW M3 a few months ago, but it’s a feature I rarely use. The car doesn’t go on long trips, so this wasn’t an urgent DIY project.

On the other hand, I want everything to work in my cars — you don’t want to become the kind of BMW owner that lets things go unrepaired. So I did some research on the cruise control system and possible points of failure.

I ruled out a break in the cable with a visual inspection of the engine bay. There was no way to know for sure, but I zeroed in on the clutch switch, number 12 in the Realoem diagram below:

Click to enlarge

These switches tend to fail and happily it was also the cheapest replacement possibility. BMW wanted $80 for the replacement switch, but I found it for around $10 from various online sources. Had the problem been the cruise actuator or even worse the control module itself, the price would have been much higher.

Replacement of the switch is straightforward to describe but a real PITA to do. Getting access is the easy part – simply remove the footwell cover directly below the steering column, being careful to disconnect a light and the climate control sensor. You just remove two screws and take care not to jerk it out and break any plastic tabs.

The problem comes from removing the old switch, and replacing it with the new one. The cruise clutch switch is right next to the brake circuit switch, which was such a hassle to replace a couple of years ago . Just like that switch, this one was very difficult to remove from its metal bracket.

The target is the white switch on left

Replacement switch

Then when I finally did get it out, the new one was extremely difficult to snap into place. It’s possible that I made things harder for myself by going with an aftermarket part, since I did notice some very subtle differences in the plastic ridges at the front of the switch. That’s a guess, not a statement — I’m just sharing my experience. I’m not saying that if you pay 8x times the price for the OE switch it will snap right in.

Finally in place

After some sweating and cursing I got the old one out and the new one snapped into place. Took me almost an hour all told. I was encouraged to see some discoloration inside the old switch, indicating that it probably was the cause of the malfunction. So then all I needed to do was reinstall the footwell panel and go for a test drive.

Success – cruise control was back on line. I didn’t find as much information as I expected to in the forums on this problem, so I hope this post is useful for other owners.

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  3 Responses to “Restoring Cruise Control on an E36 M3”

hey i was wondering where did you purchase your cruise clutch switch , or what online store do you recommend ?

See the red plastic piece between the white plunger and the body of the switch? You pull out on it so that it gets out of the way of the clips the snap into the pedal bracket. Once snapped in, you push it back in with a screwdriver or finger if you can and it locks the clips so the switch can’t pop out. You do the same for removal of the switch. Forcing it may just break your new switch before you can even use it once.

I just got na E36 and the cruise was not working. Got a new switch, but mine did not work. What else could I look?

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• BMW 3 Series Forum - Technical Talk on the BMW E21

1993 E36 325i Electronic Shift Control Warning Light On

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Hi All, I'm a recent new 1993 E36 325i Coupe owner, Automatic Transmission with Cruise Control. I just got it from a friend, so I'm working through all the niggles. Got an MOT on Friday with just a bulb and 3 tyres, which is a good start and I'm prepared to put some time in sorting other issues. Some trim and other minor bits already tidied. Actually it's a nice car, and feels good after my Rover 620Si, although it seems there's a lot more to go wrong with BMWs. My car is stuck in limp home mode, so permanently in 4th gear, with the exclamation mark on the dashboard permanently on. No amount of restarting will stop it, and it is on from startup. The switch for Sports / Eco / Economy / Winter mode is initially set to 'S', and then if I switch to 'W' for Winter, that light lights up as well. Pushing 'E' doesn't change the display. Of course, none of the modes have an effect on the drive, or make it easier to pull off in 4th gear! Whilst this is fine on the motorway, it's a pain around town, and I can imagine will damage the gearbox further eventually unless fixed. In fact it already seems to 'surge' a tiny bit on constant speed (only visible on mpg gauge 'swaying' slightly), although I don't think it's slipping yet. Did I read somewhere that Auto Boxes have clutches too? I haven't found a definitive thread on this yet. I read one guy replaced the solder in his EPROM and sprayed with WD40 and it worked. I can't imagine it's the fluid, as I can stop hard then accelerate and there's no 'thump'. I have the problem with water leaking past the Scuttle and heat box into the passenger footwell, and presumably this is at least close to the ECU by now - plan to fix soon, when I know this problem is fixable. Engine runs great, though (apart from a slight rattle in the exhaust on return to idle from high revs - presume outgoing Catalytic Converter / Cat as backbox is new and sound is under car). I just bought a INPA Diagnostic kit and software, so I hope to hook that up and learn more this weekend. I expect no one can help me without the fault codes from this. Interested in anyone with similar experiences, even if their issue was professionally fixed and not DIY. I'll post any progress I make in this thread too. Thanks for any advice, Steve. PS I'd love to swap out to manual, but that's too involved for me at this stage. I'll keep that as a last resort rather than fix Auto - yes, I know that's the wrong approach.  

take off the negitive lead on the battery for 10 15 mins and reconect it that will make it start off in 1st again and hope it doesnt go back into limp mode im having simerler problems but mine wont shift and keeps goin back into limp mode  

nah just take it off and wait 10 mins then put it on and go 4 a drive check your fuses 2 i think its number 28 by memery..good luck  

Thanks again, Jamie. I looked at the Fuses in the manual. You're right that 28 is Transmission Control, but also Cruise, Engine Control Module, and Starting system - surely I would have other symptoms if there was a problem with that fuse? Also 26 and 46 cover the Transmission Control, but they also cover Reverse Light and ABS/Brake-Lights/Instruments/OBC/MultiFunctionClock, so I'd also see sypmtoms in them?  

Your speed sensor on the gearbox would cause these problems. Get the transmission fault codes read.  

Thanks Ronnie - from the research I've done it is starting to look like that could be a good first port of call, especially given my 'delayed' speedo issues also posted on another thread. Is replacing the Auto Box Speed Sensor possible for DIY Home Mechanic on Axle Stands, or does the Transmission have to be dropped down to access it so it's a garage job?  

If u do have to remove the box, that can also be done on axle stands just make sure to have a jack under the box and a mate to help as auto box is heavy. My old 320 used to get that transmission light, would come on when i would drive hard in sport mode, i gave the transmission an oil change and filter and never seen the light again, and done about 6k on it with no light.  

So, I removed the battery for 20 minutes (negative only!), and reconnected it in the hope that the Shift Control Light would go off. It didn't and no difference, although the car started without any new locking or alarm issues so that's good! I'm going to up my efforts to get INPA working on my laptop - problem is it only has 283 megs of space remaining on it's 750MB Hard Drive, and even if I uninstall Office it will still not have enough for INPA which is a massive 438MB! I thought it was a basic utility!? Can I ask a stupid question which I should know - is the OBD-1 diagnostics port for my 1993 E36 325i in front of the steering wheel, under the bonnet? I think it's under a small round cover. Cheers, Steve.  

SteveR1 said: Can I ask a stupid question which I should know - where is the OBD-1 diagnostics port for my car? Inside near the dash/steering wheel, or under the bonnet passenger side next to the ECU? I'll have a look near the ECU first. Cheers, Steve. Click to expand...

Right, after much reading online, it seems I'm close to this but still I'm only getting the Battery indicator in INPA 3.01, and not Ignition (regardless of ignition state or car running), in OBD interface mode (STD:OBD). Of course, communications with all modules fail. I updated the EDIABAS ini to ADS (and ran ADS setup file), and this time Battery and Ignition both stayed on, regardless of ignition position. Again, comms with all modules fail. I've really searched hard on this, but no one I can find has posted exactly how they hooked this up on an earlier E36 (1992/3 coupe, so not the first). A lot on later E36s (OBD2) and E46s. Here's a link to the interface cable I bought, which is RS-232 Serial (COM) Port, to 16-pin OBD2 / OBDII / OBD-II / OBD-2, with an adapter to the 20-pin round BMW port. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-Scanner-E...iagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3361bd64af Do you think the cable can work with a 1992/3 E36? I'm not sure because some people are saying you *need* a genuine ADS cable for this. Sadly, the bundled software was INPA 5, which is only an upgrade as I now understand, and you need to get INPA 3.01 from the web as a base install, which I have done. I installed it as per INPA_ENGLISH installation instructions, with PATH and Registry settings, and restart in between. The F1 (Information) screen shows ini path, ecu path, and interface (STD:OBD or ADS). I saw someone got theirs working with OBD in the ini file, but I can't be sure, and it's hard to compare when you have different Interface cables. Any help or links to other posts appreciated! Is this thread better continued in the Diagnostics forum? Cheers, Steve.  

For anyone listening to this, my connector is a Chinese Teleway OBD2 connector, with an OBD2 to BMW 20 pin adapter. Anyone got this working with INPA on a pre-95 E36? All the connectors and their descriptions can be seen on this great page: http://www.miglenium.de/workshop_obd-other.html  

From further research, I think I need an ADS cable, which is an expensive next step. That's because I have pin 15 active in my diagnostic port - I checked that by opening the bonnet, looking at the diagnostic port by the left hand side suspension strut, in very small writing there is the pin numbering, and pin number 15 has a metal contact in it in my car. If you take the indent ('key') on the central point of the diagnostic port as 6 o'clock on a clock face, then PIN 15 is at about 3 o'clock. I'm looking at buying one from http://do-it-auto.de . 95 Euros (plus shipping, probably). Not cheap, considering that's just the start of resolving my problems... So the cable I bought from eBay doesn't work with earlier E36s, and neither does the software, despite it being a listed model in the description. Many posts say that some modules should communicate via this cable, but I tried the basic ones like airbag, and it didn't work so I expect none do really. I will try to get a refund, but probably not offered. Beware owners of earlier E36's - spend your money on a proper ADS cable! One thing I will try is with PA Soft Scanner, as perhaps these cables work with this software. Doubt it, but will try I hope this weekend.  

Finally finished work for the year, and picking this up again, so I'll carry on the story in case others can benefit. I bought an ADS cable from eBay, which looks like it's working with my 1992 E36 325i (M50), and the guy I bought it from really knows his stuff. His name is 'automotive-tool' (Phil), and is actually listing on the US site, but ships internationally. He is based in Hong Kong, but has stock in the UK sometimes, so can deliver quickly. The item description was "BMW INPA / Ediabas OBD & ADS Interface" (#160499165761), and it cost me £57.50 ($89). It also functions as an OBD interface, at the touch of a button - it is 16 pin but comes with a working adapter for 20 pin. Just ask him to also include a serial cable, as that doesn't come with it. So I'm sure the interface and cable are good, as when I load up INPA, I get Battery and Ignition signals perfectly. It also has lights on the unit itself. However, INPA *still* isn't working for me - I get all the classic 'Communication Interrupted' errors. I'm going to try installing it on another laptop, but if this doesn't work, I'm going to have to start posting errors in the forum for help. The guy I bought the interface from will be a start. If it works, I'll post here for reference. I can't get hold of PA Soft Scanner, so nevermind that.  

Early E36s have an issue with poor scuttle drainage which overflows into the ECU (DME) compartment giving all sorts of weird issues. In auto cars the EGS (The transmission ECU) lives in the same compartment. My heater box guide gives you the links.... [url]http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f3/e36-heater-box-seal-replacement-to-fix-wet-t40364/ [/URL] and here to check both DMEs... [URL="http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-DME-Repair/E36-DME-Repair.htm"][url]http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...DME-Repair.htm [/URL][/URL] ​  

if you remove the battery lead and then refit all you are doing is reseting the ecu but not finding the fault its only in limp mode because theres a fault detected, it will just detect it again in a few miles. get it scaned and see what codes come up, the leaking coolant probebly coming from the heter matrix would get it fixed as a pos as you dont want it to get worse and then you fine you have lost all you coolant and overheated the car, auto boxs dont have clutch but use something called Torqe converters that have friction lining and oil in them but I dont think that the fault. If it was my car i would change the oil in the box  

the autobox have there own ECU just for gearbox nothing else  

if the lead does not work just take to a garage in the new year for a scan,  

"auto boxs dont have clutch but use something called Torqe converters that have friction lining and oil in them" - Torque converters don't have a friction lining, they have a fluid coupling like a turbine. "the autobox have there own ECU just for gearbox nothing else" - I'd already mentioned that above if you had bothered to look. Are these "facts" based on your extensive knowledge of cars or were you just desperate to have an opinion?  

Own facts the tubines called an impella  

There are three parts actually, the Stator, the Impeller and the Turbine.  

yes but the impeller has fins on it  

like turbine  

I give up, you are the king of auto gearboxes.  

not realy rather be a Dr of Bmw  

Hi, After that discussion, a quick update on the thread: I did the scuttle clearing using the advised posts, so hopefully the car's dry, but the damage is probably already done to the ECUs. I didn't do the heater box one yet, but I might as I think my heater fan is having electrical problems as I have to put it to setting 4, and then turn it back if I want it lower - if I put it straight to 1 it often doesn't work, and I sometimes smell burning. I'm hoping some rust is just sticking the motor, so needs some WD40, but clearly access isn't easy! I still can't get INPA and all that working with ADS connector. Latest is my father-in-law's laptop also doesn't have a serial port, and the old one I had specifically does not read CD-Rs (for software), has a hard drive too small, and I can't install the drivers for PCMCIA USB ports to ! I just want to get all this IT stuff through so I can get to the codes and get a clue, and clear some codes! I think it's not heater matrix as it doesn't smell sweet, and it only happens when it rains. I had a leaking heater matrix with a Vauxhall Astra once, so I'm pretty sure it's different, but thanks for the suggestion. More later, in case I can hopefully solve this! Any suggestions welcome, although there's nothing more to go on, really. Steve.  

You will find that most non BMW fault code readers won't 'talk' with a car that old. Most common causes of autobox 'limp home' are: A weak battery. Even if it starts the car, if it's not the right a/h unit, the box will go into limp home. Camshaft sensor. If this fails, the box will go into limp home. ABS sensor - as above. The ABS ECU will only read from three wheels and tell the autobox ECU. The first two are most common.  

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Cruise control is not working (solved: bad MAF)

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edit: solved by new MAF sensor, see post #27. I did some searching, but a couple threads I found on this ended without the OP saying if it was fixed and how. Symptoms: first noticed I could not turn on the cruise control going down the highway. Press the I/O, no green light. Tried to set the speed by pushing + just in case the green light was broke, no luck. After reading up a bit, I checked if I could get it to turn on in the garage... never touching the brake. Green light comes on and goes off with the button as much as I want, until I hit the brake. Once I touch the brake, the cruise light won't turn on until I do an ignition cycle. I've seen MAF and brake switch come up often in older threads. Seems to be some disagreement on the MAF. My brake lights work fine, and I didn't have any trouble lights. But I decided to try a new brake light switch... mostly because it's so much cheaper than a MAF. No change with the new brake light sensor. I'm about to order a new MAF (cleaned it a couple weeks back with no change). Can anyone confirm that the MAF definitely fixed their cruise issue? Does a bad MAF makes sense with being able to turn on/off the cruise until I press the brake?  

MAF is an expensive item that is not returnable in most cases. You must be certain that the MAF is the problem, I have never seen one cause the Cruise to not work. Try this test. Stop on the side of the highway and cycle the ignition off then on to clear the system. You only need a place where you can get to 30 mph or more without using the brakes, then set the Cruise. You stated that you can make the green light turn on and off as much as you want until you use the brakes, then you cannot make the light come on again until you cycle the ignition off then on. The green light should never go away until you hit the 1/0 button. When the system is enabled, the light should remain on until it is disabled. Once it is enabled, then it can be engaged or disengaged. You attain the set speed and engage the system after it has been enabled. As the conditions change, you depress the brake or the clutch and the system is disengaged although it is still enabled. When the conditions allow, you can select the Resume function if the system is still enabled. The car will increase its speed until it attains the previously set speed and then stay there. If I read your symptom set correctly, I'm reading that depressing the brake pedal not only disengages the system, it disables it also. The green light on the dash indicates to you that you can press the Set or Resume button and cause the Cruise to engage and make the car do what the button says it should do. I say, Set button, but it's really the + Button. If the system is on, enabled, then you depress the + button to store the speed and remain there, or you hold the + button to increase the speed and then hold, or you can press the gas pedal to attain a new speed then depress the + button to hold the new speed. Resume sends the car to full throttle until it gets to whatever speed was set before the brake or clutch was depressed. (Ignore references to clutch if you have an automatic.) The clutch/brake disengages the system, but does not disable it. If on, you must depress the 1/0 button to disable the system. Your car sounds like once the system is disengaged, it cannot be engaged again until you cycle the ignition. If you can stop on the side of the road and cycle the ignition, then proceed up to speed without using the brakes, then the system should be able to be set. If true then you have something wrong with the brake switch or the controller for the Cruise. I completely get that this is not the right way for the system to work, but if it works this way then it's a clue. I have never seen any relationship with the MAF and the Cruise Control. The brake switch makes sense, the MAF does not.  

Thanks for the idea. I forgot the mention this is an automatic, but I still should be able to get down to 10 mph or so, shift to nuetral, cycle the ignition, and shift back into drive without having to hit the brake. Gonna run out to a country road this evening and give this a try.  

Get PA Soft BMW Scanner 1.4, and read the trouble codes from ALL the modules. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RHJTS2 Especially check the IKE (instrument cluster), DME (engine computer), EGS (automatic transmission computer), and ABS modules.  

I had a similar "no cruise" problem. It was the MAF. I replaced it with a seimens/VDO MAF from fcpeuro. Get OBDFusion and the appropriate interface adapter. iOS uses wifi, android uses Bluetooth. Buy a Veepeek adapter from Amazon. Search for threads about OBDFusion with posts by jfoj. He's the resident guru. OBDFusion will let you see the what the MAF is reporting.  

Okay, you have a clue. If the Cruise works before you use the brake, but not after, then you have somewhere to look. Back to Enable and Engage... You enable the system with the 1/0 button and engage it with the + button. You disengage it with the brake pedal or the - button. Now, the - button only disengages for the duration that it is held, then when it is released the new speed will be held until the brake pedal is depressed or the 1/0 button is pressed again. If you get the system to work if you do not use the brakes beforehand, then it stands to reason that the brake switch is high on the list of usual suspects. You have a P0102, this points to the MAF. I have never heard of a MAF keeping the Cruise Control at bay. This is news to me. Seems that others can confirm it as true, so go that way.  

The only time my cruise wouldn't work was when I forgot to reconnect the MAF plug, I drove into town and then got the ses light. I don't think the cruise worked before the light came on but once the MAF was reconnected everything worked.  

I replaced the brake light switch after the cruise started acting up. Same symptoms with both the old and new switch.  

I wish I could explain why the MAF takes the Cruise Control off line. I cannot. The MAF should be blind to the activities of the brakes. If the MAF is killing the cruise, it should do so whether the brakes are applied first or not. Remember, the OP says that the Cruise works if the brakes are not used first.  

DME uses the MAF value to calculate engine load which is needed for many things, such as AT shifting, fuel economy estimation, cruise control adjustments. Hence why a faulty MAF can indirectly disable cruise control, cause an EGS fault (cog light), and other problems. Most likely a faulty MAF is the OP's problem here.  

Doesn't a bad MAF reading trigger a default fuel trim setting? My guess is that default setting overrides the cruise control setting.  

He reported a P0102, which is a MAF fault code.  

That's a big part of the reason I haven't sprung for a new MAF yet. Especially when I could get the cruise engage light to turn on / off in the garage. It seems that if my MAF was causing the cruise to not work, it shouldn't work all the time... not just after I touch the brake. I'm hoping to keep this thread active long enough where someone found a pinched wire somewhere or other fix they did after trying the Brake light switch. I'm going to try to dig up a schematic this weekend that shows the brake light switch wiring, and see if I can determine which wire goes to the cruise controller and check continuity. Thanks for all the input so far!  

If the MAF was killing the Cruise, it would always kill the Cruise, not just after the brakes have been applied. The green light that you speak of is part of the enable side of the system. It should remain on at all times whether the system is engaged or not. You enable (set the system to ON), then reach the desired speed and engage. If the conditions change and you use the brakes, then the system is disengaged but remains enabled, so the light should remain lit. I have had several cars that use the green light, and a few that do not. Those that use the light keep it on at all times (after the system is switched ON) to keep you apprised of the readiness state of the system. If the light is on, then you can set the speed, if the light is not on, then you cannot set the speed. On the cars that I have owned (my E36 among them) that do not have the green light, they just let you set the speed at any time when setting the speed is valid -- above 30 mph, for example. In the case of no indicator light, the system is always "enabled", and you attain the desired speed and set it. Use the brakes and it cuts out. Use the Resume feature, and the car returns to the previously set speed. I'm a bit confused by your statements that the green light goes out when you use the brakes to disengage the system.  

What if the MAF is in a soft fail condition, and is not responding fast enough to the change in fuel trim when the brakes are applied, causing a fail mode? I'm clearly stretching here, but am wondering if you could find someone that would let you swap MAFs to test cruise control on EACH vehicle? At least you could rule out the MAF.  

SSchwab said: swap MAFs to test cruise control on EACH vehicle Click to expand...

A huge problem with the E46 schematics is that they are all "black box". You will have trouble finding a schematic that helps you.  

Enable and disable turn the system on and off. Engage and disengage make the system keep the car going at the set speed or not. You turn the system on (enable) and the green light comes on, but the car continues going whatever speed your foot tells it to go. You get to the speed you want and press the + button to engage the system, it now goes at a speed that does not need input from your foot to maintain. You can use your foot to increase the speed, then press the + button again to set the new higher speed, or you can press and hold the - button to coast, then release the - button to hold the new lower speed. You depress the brake of clutch pedal to disengage the system, but it should remain enabled -- it no longer maintains the speed, but is poised to do so when you depress the + button again when a new speed is attained, or return to the previously set speed when you press the Resume button. BUTTONS 1/0 = ON/OFF. This enables the system and turns the green light on or off. + - = Set/increase speed, and coast/decrease speed. If the system is enabled (the green light is on) the + button will store the current speed or increase the speed then set the new speed, the - button will cause the car to coast and then store the new slower speed when released. There is a button with a pictogram that looks like a speedometer, same as the green light. This resumes the previously set speed after using the brakes or clutch. The only thing that should make the light come on or go off is the 1/0 button. All it indicates is that the system is ready to be set to maintain the speed. It does not indicate that the speed is currently being maintained or not, so it should not go off until you set the system off with the 1/0 button. If the brake pedal activity is making the light go out, then I don't know what the problem is, but the brake pedal switch or the vehicle coding folat to the top of the list. I don't know if the behavior (operating parameters) of the Cruise Control can be changed by coding. I don't have an explanation for why this would even be desirable. So, when you attain a desired speed and press the 1/0 button, the green light comes on. The vehicle speed still requires input from your foot. You press the + button and the speed holds steady. Now press and hold the + button, the speed increases until you release the button, the speed then holds at that speed. Press the - button and the vehicle coasts to a lesser speed, release the - button and the new speed is held steady. This is all normal, and the green light remains on the entire time. You depress the brake because conditions demand it. The Cruise drops out and the car slows. You release the brake and the car coasts. The green light should still remain lit. You press the gas pedal to regain speed and press the + button again, the new speed is held. Or, if you are above about 30 mph, you can press the speedometer button and the car will regain the previously (before the brake pedal was applied) set speed. This can be, or will feel like, full throttle acceleration. I am not sure that it is or isn't, but there is heavy throttle application. If the speed drops below 30, you cannot resume the previously set speed. The green light will remain on to indicate that the system is waiting for you to input a command to store the speed and hold it. If you press the 1/0 button at any time, the system will be disabled, and disengaged. The green light will go out. You are reporting a failure mode where the system works as described until you depress the brake pedal. The system disengages as it should -- it no longer maintains the set speed -- but it cannot be re-engaged again until you bring the car to a full stop and cycle the ignition off then back on, and then bring the car to speed without applying the brake at any time. Basically, if the brakes are applied, the Cruise does not work. If you set the Cruise before the brakes are ever used, then it works until the brakes are used. Once the brakes are applied, the green light goes off and the Cruise Control System cannot be used again until the ignition switch cycles off then on. Is that correct?  

I'm not ready to accept that the MAF is the problem since the Cruise works up until the point where the brakes are applied, then it completely shuts down. My guess is that you need the control module. For some reason, the disengage signal from the brake pedal is being treated as a disable signal, and it shuts the system down until it is fully reset by cycling the key. I have an E46 manual, but the circuit for the Cruise is not helpful at all.  

I think this is at the point of hooking it up to some sort of diagnostic computer, whether it's your own, using various software, or a shop. IMHO, without software, this is beyond shadetree work.  

Agreed...after you swap MAFs with a friend to confirm it is NOT the cause.  

P0102 comes up every time I start the car now. I will put in a new MAF this weekend.  

I checked DME connectors for corrosion today. I should have done this before ordering the MAF. All clean, so dodged that one at least.  

Put a new MAF in last night. Cruise immediately worked as it should. Continued to work fine this morning too. I really don't understand why it would work if I didn't touch the brake if it was a MAF issue. Seems like it would not work regardless of the brake pre… Thanks for all the help and input!  

Really! Personally, I'd like to get an explanation as to why this is true. I cannot see how the Cruise would take a dive after depressing the brake pedal if the MAF was on the fritz. I'm not arguing that I am right and that all must agree with me or I'm launching the missiles. I'm just saying that what I know causes me conflict with the reported resolution of the symptom set. I need to know more.  

I totally agree! I'm really hoping someone knows why and shares, because I looked at a lot of different things first thinking if the MAF was causing this the cruise wouldn't work ever. The only reason I replaced the MAF is because the code started popping up every ignition cycle. Currently it makes no sense to me at all...  

I am not surprised that the MAF was your issue. And it makes a little sense to me that an engineer would NOT want you to be comfortable driving very long with a bad MAF, and cruise control is a comfort feature for long drives.  

A bad MAF should send the mixture rich. Back in the day when Grandpa had to set the choke on a cold start, the choke sent the mixture rich. A bad MAF would be sorta like setting the choke. As for the comfort, I can drive my cars for hours without touching the Cruise Control settings. "Never," is an absolute, and I abhor absolutes so I will not say that I never use the Cruise, but I never use the Cruise, so it is nonsensical that a bad MAF would affect the Cruise, AND only do so if the brakes are applied at some point. The main concern of the engineers' should be the health and safety of the machine he has engineered, and as such having the MAF get in the way of the cruise control that might reasonably never be turned on, then the engineering falls short. I understand that Cruise is a comfort feature, but lots of people might never ever use this feature, so engine operations would persist for hours, and miles upon miles, with a MAF problem and since they are not using the Cruise, they might never know. I'm not buying the argument that comfort is the tie-in here, that's all. I am only a single data point, but I can drive for hours without the cruise control. Indeed, I would not spend the money on cruise control if it was a separate option. I have it on every car I own because it is part of a feature package that includes things I actually want, but I seldom use it. Frankly, I am not comfortable with the Cruise turned on. Remember the failure mode here, the Cruise works until the brakes come on, then it turns off. It does not simply disengage, the entire system shuts down and cannot be turned on until the key is cycled off then on again. So, the car works fine the driver manages to get someplace where the Cruise can be activated, and he does so before the brake pedal is applied. The Cruise functions normally. Then, as the conditions warrant, the brakes are applied, the Cruise turns off, but the failure mode is that it cannot be turned on again. The MAF is the problem. THIS is the part that I need to have explained. I am having two problems understanding this, 1.) the MAF can make the Cruise not work, and 2.) it only causes the Cruise to not work if the brakes are applied first. If the brakes are not applied, the MAF is still just as bad as it if the brakes are applied, yet the Cruise only does not work if the brakes are applied.  

jdstrickland said: The main concern of the engineers' should be the health and safety of the machine he has engineered, and as such having the MAF get in the way of the cruise control that might reasonably never be turned on, then the engineering falls short. Click to expand...

Yeah the MAF can cause all sorts of strange issues. It will also prevent brake and throttle at the same time. I learned that on my 128 when I went to heel toe downshift after I installed my AFE intake. I put in the used MAF that was with the kit to see if it worked. It prevented cruise control and braking while on the throttle. I put in my original MAF and the car worked perfectly after resetting the code it eventually threw for the MAF. The computer logic is likely not "OMG BAD MAF DISABLE CRUISE". It's just more likely that is a consequence of the computer switching to another control method that does not include accommodations for cruise control or something like throttle and brake at the same time. It could also be a safety thing. It may use the MAF to check for throttle and pedal position rationality. Since it doesn't have that, the logic is then, when the brakes are applied, cut throttle input entirely. That's the safest thing. At least that's more reasonable that HUR DUR ENGINEERS R DUMB GAISZ  

The brake switch signal communicates with cruise control after cruise is engaged, not before.  

I am glad you all have pursued this thread. It was especially great to see that collectively several of you have made observations, checked them, and confirmed how the system behaves. I came across this thread only because I was searching in desperation thinking that I might have turned a simple maintenance task into a disaster: I replaced the intake camshaft position sensor, and I was distracted at the end, and apparently I did not fully seat the MAF connector. I started up the car to run an errand, and though the car drove 'okay', the cruise enable button did not light up the dash light. I immediately returned to my garage. I noticed the MAF connector, but there were no codes, and I thought that I must have goofed up one of the connections to the DME. I removed the air box, and inspected all the electrical connectors I might have disturbed during my sensor swap. Nothing looked out of place or badly connected. So I reinstalled the air box and made sure the MAF was well connected. I started up the car and ran my errand, and the cruise worked perfectly. Until I found this thread I was figuring some intermittent random wire break, but now my experience makes sense.  

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cruise control cable replacement

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98 740i i just had my water pump and belts replaced and the mechanic did not reconnect the cruise control cable because it was rusty and he deemed it not safe fearing it might stick (he forgot to tell me and i found out 2 days later) where can i find the "correct proper quality" cable without going to the BMW parts department? i understand the same quality parts are available elsewhere but i dont know where to look also, is this a easy DIY job or is it something tricky? thanks  

Advance auto parts owns world pak I've had very good luck with them. Oebimmerparts is online and Max over there is excellent !  

On the webpage menu bar at the top is a "Site Sponsors" button...start there. Just a few places of the top of my head besides the dealership: ECSTuning, OEMbimmerparts, bavauto, fcpeuro. Don't know how hard it is but you can check a few places: Bentley (repair manual), E38.org , Timm's meeknet . Oh, and there is a member on the E46 page (Silbervogel) with a link in his signature for a program that checks stock and tons of different places and gives you what their price is.  

u.nanimous said: Oh, and there is a member on the E46 page (Silbervogel) with a link in his signature for a program that checks stock and tons of different places and gives you what their price is. Click to expand...

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great tips thanks  

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DIY: Complete ASC delete with no ABS light/fault!

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Thread: DIY: Complete ASC delete with no ABS light/fault!

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So everyone knows how to remove the ASC TB and all but you still have the acutator next to the master cylinder. If you unplug it you get an ABS fault which kills your ABS so heres how to make it go away!!!!!!! What im basically doing is tricking the ABS system into thinking the ASC system is still in place. I measured the resistance across the 2 poles of the ASC acuator to 10 ohms. so you replace the acutaor with a 10 ohm resistor and bam! Sorry for the crappy pics. cameras kicking the bucket. Parts needed: 1 10ohm 1 watt resistor (bought mine at radioshack) Start like this: haha.... -now un plug that biach: -then grab one of these (or i suppose you should buy one before you begin haha) -Cut the 2 wires for the plug for the ASC acutator and do this: -Tape up that biach, stuff it somewhere and burn this thing ~!

460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

Dude, you could bank on making a kit. HIDE THIS THREAD QUICKLY. Congrats. You should get banana plugs that fill the connector and then you can solder in the resistor in line with the plugs and not destroy the plug.

Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite

I considered that but considering it cost all of 1.25 i passed. And i figured ide pass on the knowledge because ive learned 3242342343 other things about my car and how to mess/mod/screw with it because of this forum. I also thought of doing that but didnt want it coming loose.

Originally Posted by 328iJunkie I considered that but considering it cost all of 1.25 i passed. And i figured ide pass on the knowledge because ive learned 3242342343 other things about my car and how to mess/mod/screw with it because of this forum. I also thought of doing that but didnt want it coming loose. Heatshrink + zip ties + resistor + solder = never coming loose. Butt splices are well and dandy, but its worth it to make it bulletproof. You should make a project with the TB.

Quick question though, my car had the ASC removed a looooong time ago and I've never seen the ABS light come on. After I took it back from the shop after the accident the ABS light was on. Although it wasn't on right after it was hit and on it's way to the shop. So what gives? Should I do this mod or is it just some crap that got into the ABS sensors in the wheels? Should I take 'em out and clean with the brake cleaner or whatknot? Any input appreciated, thanks.

Originally Posted by Seruy Quick question though, my car had the ASC removed a looooong time ago and I've never seen the ABS light come on. After I took it back from the shop after the accident the ABS light was on. Although it wasn't on right after it was hit and on it's way to the shop. So what gives? Should I do this mod or is it just some crap that got into the ABS sensors in the wheels? Should I take 'em out and clean with the brake cleaner or whatknot? Any input appreciated, thanks. There you go. Doesnt the ASC light have a seperate light from the ABS?

ABS is completely different from the ASC. ABS is airbag system, ASC is traction control.

e46 m3, some 740 sport shorts, F30h, LR3 and a 540it

Originally Posted by Aradaiel ABS is airbag system, ASC is traction control. ABS is the Anti-lock Braking System, SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) is the air bag system.

Originally Posted by Tronix ABS is the Anti-lock Braking System, SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) is the air bag system. +1 haha. ABS and ASC in our cars are nearly interconnected. And yes a ABS light would be on for many different reasons, ide check the wheel speed sensors to begin with.

Noob question: Whats the difficulty in simply pressing the ASC switch when you'd prefer to have it off? Im sure there is something Im missing

The ASC system is a secondary throttlebody in the intake tract that just shuts (killing all power) when you spin the wheels. Its a terrible traction system who isnt a complete terrible driver so i dont like it. Its a bottle neck in my 3.5" intake system and i hated it so out it went.

looks good. I wonder what the equivalent trick is for an E36 M3. ASC is different in the M3 that what I am seeing in your photo.

Johno -- 2003 e46 M3 -- 2018 e90 M5 -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4

Originally Posted by Johno looks good. I wonder what the equivalent trick is for an E36 M3. ASC is different in the M3 that what I am seeing in your photo. He has already pulled out the ASC throttle body and replaced it and the boot with the Samco boot. The actuator ussually has to stay in the car or you'll get the light...or just replace it with a resistor

The actuator ussually has to stay in the car or you'll get the light...or just replace it with a resistor My ASC system throttle body is out of the car. All that is left is the asc throttle cable and the plug for the throttle posistion sensor. If all I need to do is wire a resister across the plug where the sensor used to attach, I would like to know the resister value ...and whether this resistor across the wires will lead to any problems. Basically I need to fool the car into thinking the parts are still there. If by chance the ASC light can come on when there is wheel spin that would be nice... But not required.

I think you might be better off just taking the actuator out and living with the light. That way, the ABS/ASC brain knows that the system is not working and won't try to operate it while you are driving. See, the second throttle body is just one part of the system. It also applies the rear brakes and also can retard ignition (and perhaps cut off injectors). Just read the description of the system in the E36 Bentley. If you try to fool it into thinking the throttle plate is there, maybe it will still try to apply your rear breaks to stop wheel spin. Or maybe it will figure out that the throttle position sensor for the ASC throttle isn't there when it tries to close it and you'll get a fault light after that...

Originally Posted by Johno My ASC system throttle body is out of the car. All that is left is the asc throttle cable and the plug for the throttle posistion sensor. If all I need to do is wire a resister across the plug where the sensor used to attach, I would like to know the resister value ...and whether this resistor across the wires will lead to any problems. Basically I need to fool the car into thinking the parts are still there. If by chance the ASC light can come on when there is wheel spin that would be nice... But not required. +1 on what TLK said. This will mess things up. It will apply the brakes and etc but not slow the airflow so you might acutally lean out. If youve removed the ASC TB you might as well get rid of the actuator too. You cant have half the ASC system or shit wont work very well.

Hmm, maybe I'll remove the rest of that useless system (hehe sorry, don't mean to troll ) Originally Posted by 328iJunkie +1 on what TLK said. This will mess things up. It will apply the brakes and etc but not slow the airflow so you might acutally lean out. If youve removed the ASC TB you might as well get rid of the actuator too. You cant have half the ASC system or shit wont work very well. Nothing will be leaned out. The ASC TB has its own throttle position sensor. Seriously, to the people who consider removing this safety hazard out of the car - you won't miss it at all.

Originally Posted by epj3 Hmm, maybe I'll remove the rest of that useless system (hehe sorry, don't mean to troll ) Nothing will be leaned out. The ASC TB has its own throttle position sensor. Seriously, to the people who consider removing this safety hazard out of the car - you won't miss it at all. No he was asking if he could put a resitor in the TPS for the ASC TB to make it think its still there.

Originally Posted by liilpa09 hmmm wonder if this would work with the windshield washer fluid low signal i get on my OBC since i took out my windshield washer fluid reservoir... yes, but you need to measure the resistance of the sensor with the resevoir full to put the correct one in there.

Originally Posted by Jrdeamicis yes, but you need to measure the resistance of the sensor with the resevoir full to put the correct one in there. i don't have the reservoir anymore...any other way of doing this? cant i just measure it when the car is on since it still is trying to read the reservoir sensor (which is no longer there?)

Originally Posted by liilpa09 i don't have the reservoir anymore...any other way of doing this? cant i just measure it when the car is on since it still is trying to read the reservoir sensor (which is no longer there?) I can get my DVM out and find out for you what it is.

The windsheild washer level is just a open/closed switch. Bridge the two wires and itll never come up again. edit, same with the coolant level sensor.

Originally Posted by 328iJunkie The windsheild washer level is just a open/closed switch. Bridge the two wires and itll never come up again. edit, same with the coolant level sensor. what do you mean by bridge? like stick a metal wire from the one hole of the plug to the other hole in the end of the plug?

Basically, I just cut the plug off and connected the two wires.

Originally Posted by 328iJunkie Basically, I just cut the plug off and connected the two wires. Is there a cleaner way of doing this? It's unfortunate that you still have wires running in the engine bay... Is there a way to pull the wires out of where they begin so that there are no lose wires laying anywhere?

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Elektrostal , Moscow Oblast, Russia