excursion 4x4 not working

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4x4 Not working (no light)

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So I have a 2003 F350 6.0 and when you shift it into 4wd hi or low nothing happens. No lights on the dash come on and I have tested and there is no power going to the motor on the t-case. Any ideas? I have tested all the fuses I could find and have switched out relays under the hood to check that, but still nada. PLEASE HELP the snow is about to fly  

I am having the same problem. i've been searching post but not finding this same situation. Mostly hub problems.  

quick fix i took off the motor that on tranfer case and put on a 9/16 wrench and turned it to back of truck ..to engage 4x4 to hi at least if you get stuck you can get out ..  

Did you find the problem yet?  

I replaced the motor on the transfer case but still nothing. I can hear the relays clicking under the hood when I turn the switch but its not engageing. No light on the dash or the switch. Also no sign of vacume leak. a/c stays the same when I turn 4wd on.  

So, there is now power at the TC switch motor? My next question is did you manually turn the engagement shaft when you had the motor off to see if it would engage easily, before putting the new one on? I can't remember the exact motor logic anymore, but it tries for about 20 seconds to engage before it cycles itself off. Unfortunately, the ESOF can be a PITA when things stiffen up in the TC. It is always a good idea to cycle it and run it in 4x4 on a regular basis, just not on a hard surface. The light comes on when the motor has rotated the shaft to the correct position.  

I did not try to turn the shaft. I take it that it will get bound up internally if not used often. I bought the truck 8 yrs old with 20,000 miles on . its got 27,000 now. I was hoping it would'nt be anything internal with that low milage. Will moving it manualy get it to loosen up or do i have to move it then drive it and then move it back? Also only one pin had power to the motor . I did'nt know if they both should or not. Thanks for help. Im kinda stuck.  

Also have the same problem, mine is an 03 also, out of curiosity does your 4x4 switch light up with your parking lights on, mine are out, wondering if we have the same symptoms, maybe we can both figure this out, im very frustrated.  

No the switch does not light up at all. The 4X4 and LOW RANGE in the instrument cluster only light up when I start the engine and then go out like all the others. Nothing lights up when I turn the 4x4 switch.  

motorman173 said: No the switch does not light up at all. The 4X4 and LOW RANGE in the instrument cluster only light up when I start the engine and then go out like all the others. Nothing lights up when I turn the 4x4 switch. Click to expand...

the 4x4 and dash light are tied to the PCM the system has no clue what so ever if the hubs did anything but the transfer case motor has some hall effect sensors and can tell if the motor moved to the expected position and then will turn the dash light on accordingly  

I do have power to one of the two pins at the motor when the switch is turned but its only one. I was afraid that it is the GEM also. I just read about that. Someone said you can by pass it but there were no details as to how. Twoicebergs asked about turning the shaft. I will be trying that in the morning. This is my first truck with this electronic crap 4x4. So far it seems better for the parts suppliers than the truck owner. IMHO  

motorman173 said: I do have power to one of the two pins at the motor when the switch is turned but its only one. I was afraid that it is the GEM also. I just read about that. Someone said you can by pass it but there were no details as to how. Twoicebergs asked about turning the shaft. I will be trying that in the morning. This is my first truck with this electronic crap 4x4. So far it seems better for the parts suppliers than the truck owner. IMHO Click to expand...

No. Sorry. I just heard about it myself searching the forum. How hard should it be to turn the shaft with a wrench and which direction does it turn? clockwise or counter clockwise? The GEM is said to be behind the glove box.  

I think from the 2wd position you can turn it clockwise or counter, could be wrong it should turn easily. Also i am usure if there is a neutral position.  

What is a GEM? Not hijacking but my Dads 03 is doing the exact same thing, turn switch and no lights or engagement. Subscribed.........  

I guess its a controler of some sort for the 4x4 system. I guess the old tried and true method of grabbing a lever to enguage the 4 whell drive was too simple.  

I agree wish i had the sure stick in my truck. Of course mine fails in the biggest snow storm we have had in years. Im leaning towards my GEM module but its kinda pricey to just throw one at it. Anyways these can be tested with a scantool or something? Any ford techs that would know? I think you can pull codes from this module.  

I would love to figure this out all the threads i have read on here seem to lead to dead ends. I did see one where a guy had a broken wire underneath the relays under the hood, i am going to inspect this area on my truck and go from there  

u can pull codes with a good reader the GEM doesn't just usually fail one item and I am not sure the 4X4 runs through the gem anyway ? I do know it is a PCM /ECM 's job to send the signals out to the TC shift motor and ESOF solenoid the chances are greater the Transfer case motor or wiring have failed specially if u hear relays clicking ,, but it could be the relay as well I have all the manuals but have not had to dig into this system yet  

Yeah. I couldn't find anything that really helped with this problem very much. Might not have used the right search words. I do understand how to troubleshoot the vacume hubs. Another brilliant idea. Lol  

well a manual transfer case was an option and it came with manual hubs u can even convert yours but I like the ESOF I just check it every once in a while  

I replaced my motor a year or so ago and i definitely have no power going to it. The GEM module is split into 2 categories for this year for 4x2 and 4x4 model trucks so it has to have something to do with it i would imagine.  

I have same issue but have no relay click. Tried swapping them and no results Sent from my SCH-I510 using AutoGuide App  

Ok. I took the motor off and put it into 4 wheel manualy. For future refrence the shaft turns counter clockwise to engage. I did this about a dozen times to loosen it up then drove it around for a couple of miles to get the internals moving. When i came back I put it all back together. When I turned the switch I can hear the relay Going on and off but it wont engage the transfer case. I've had it with this thing. Its going to the shop.:dunno:  

Just out of curiosity, did you try the motor off the shaft? As well, how much force did you need to turn the shaft? The TC shift motor doesn't create much torque. Keep us posted on your shop repair. BTW, one of my previous low-use trucks developed a similar problem. After 9 years of living in the rust belt everything started to get stiff. The shaft was easy to move when warm, but when it was <0*F it did not like to rotate/shift. It finally burned out the TC shift motor and I replaced it - that was when I really found out what the problem was. Rather than take off the TC and repair/replace the sticking parts, I used some penetrating oil on the shaft support and seal. When parking it in the winter I used to put it in 4x4, just in case I needed it on the next drive. Call me lazy, but it also exercised the parts. I ran it like that for a few years; it got better, but never back to normal. Since this happened, I always engage 4x4 every day I drove it. Same for my new truck, and after 110,000 miles, even at -26 its shift into 4x4 like new.  

I did not try the motor off the shaft because the instructions said not to and that it would void the waranty. The shaft was kind of stiff but without any type of refrence I cant tell if it is normal resistance or from lack of use. Do you know if it will hurt the motor trying it off the T/C? I did spray PB blaster in the shaft while it was apart.  

Anyone have any word on this problem yet? I'm having similar issues but mine has a mind of it's own. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes it don't. It also will work till I shut truck off then it won't work and be stuck in 4wd. Or vice versa. Replaced switch cause it didn't light up with parking lights. Now it lights with parking lights but still has mind of it's own to when it wants to work.  

The answer I got today was that they had replaced both relays under the hood. I could hear it clicking trying to turn the motor but apperantly they were still bad. They cost about $30 each. I would start there if the wiring looks good. Its probably the cheapest place to start. The motor was $120.I was also told that the relays for the 4 wheel drive are the same as the relays for the wipers and horn under the dash so you can swap them in to see if that is the problem. I hope this helps.  

Check this out..... http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/showthread.php?t=284350 Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.  

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2002 Ford Excursion 4X4 won't engage

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2003 F350 6.0 4X4 not Engaing

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Hello again, so I looking for some more guidance on resolving this issue. A 2003 f350 6.0 4X4 long bed, with the hubs locked in place, the 4X4 high and low work. However, when they are set to auto, the switch illuminates in the cab, but 4X4 in not engaging. I first noticed it when i went sking this past weekend when i needed to use it. The light came on so i thought it was working til i was entering a steep parking lot, i couldnt climb at all. So the parking lot guys locked my hubs in and away a I went. Any ideas where to start?  

The vacuum lines coming from the canister to the hubs can be a problem. Start at the axle where they connect and back track from there. generally they become brittle and break and cause hub not locking problems.  

x2^ guarrantee its a vacuum leak. if u wanted to spend the money, u could get some warm lockout hubs and never have to worry about ESOF vacuum leaks again.  

What exactly does ESOF stand for, and what would be the advantage to Warn's lockout hubs vs autolocks  

Fos the electronic shift on the fly, the manual recommends to operate in Auto mode rather than lock, If i went with Warn's, would I always have to get out of my truck and lock them in when i need to use 4X4  

What type of vacuum line do i use to replace the broken one?  

I have a 2005 FX4 with the same issue. works perfectly if I lock them in, but the ESOF is not working for some reason. Anyone have a sort of map for these lines??? and Does Ford sell them outright?? Thanks.  

I never understood why someone would replace these hubs with the warn hubs due to a vacuum leak. The warn hubs are manual lock. Stock hubs you can manual lock. If you choose to manual lock, you still need to cap off the vacuum line to not have a vacuum leak for other systems. Why not just decide to fix the vacuum leak or to just revert to manually locking hubs. Just curious. I have a vac leak somewhere myself. Not sure if it is at the hub or not. On my recent mountain trip, I knew there was snow on the mountain, so I manually locked my hubs just before I started up the mountain and unlocked them when I came off on my return trip. I engaged 4WD with the dash switch when I needed it. No big issue for me.  

The solution! i ordered a new PVH solenoid and installed it in less than 10Min. Now my 4X4 system is fixed. Only 60 bucks with shipping from touselyfordparts.com. The old one just wasn't working correctly.  

Did you inspect you vacuum lines or did you just take a chance on the solenoid??? I found the lines online and they are about 75 bucks to get a new set of them. I just dont want to replace the lines and it be the solenoid, or vice versa.  

I unplugged the vacuum lines from the PVH solenoid then turned the key to on , then switched to 4x4,! The vacuum pump is drawing on the lower vacuum line, but no vacuum on the top line to the hubs ! So the PVH was faulty. Also, I have the hard plastic vacuum lines not rubber vacuum hose so the lines were less Lilly to be the problem.  

Thanks for the info, I will perform the inspection of the lines this weekend. We will see what happens, maybe I will get lucky and just pulled the line off or something.  

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Ford Superduty 4wd hubs problem QUICK FIX (ESOF)

Superduty “4×4 not engaging” problems? This is a very common issue, here is how to fix it. It might be a quick patch/replacement of a vacuum line, or a solenoid replacement. I made a quick video that will only take a couple minutes for you to figure out what the problem is, and depending on the problem, the actual fix shouldn’t take you more than 15 minutes. When I had this problem I couldn’t find a good resource to troubleshoot, so hopefully this helps.

First, is your vacuum pump working? You will hear it when you turn the truck to ON and engage 4wd, you disconnect a vacuum hose (pump senses drop in pressure and tries to re-pressurize), or if there is a vacuum leak the pump will just engage for a few minutes as soon as you turn truck to ON. Assuming you’re able to get the pump to engage, let’s move on (otherwise replace the vacuum pump).

Next, is your solenoid working? Simply disconnect the vacuum line that comes directly from the pump and goes INTO your solenoid, and plug the vacuum pump line directly into the upstream vacuum line that’s headed to your hubs. Check my video for how to do this in detail. You will completely bypass the electronics of the 4wd system and apply direct vacuum to your hubs. If you have no leaks in the vacuum lines that go out to your hubs from the solenoid, then the vacuum pump should shut off in under 45 seconds (once it fully pressurizes).

Now if the vacuum hub continues to run for over a minute, you have a vacuum leak in your lines, but test whether your hubs are engaged by jacking up the front tires and spinning one tire with 4hi engaged. Your passenger tire and driver side tires should both spin together now (but in opposite directions if you have an open diff), but if your hubs are NOT locked, then each tire will spin completely independently of one another. This means you have a vacuum leak or your vacuum pump is not functioning (again this should be very obvious if it’s not, test the vacuum with your finger over an active line, it should suck air). To force your hubs to engage just spin the manual locking hubs to “LOCKED”.

If you have any questions, please comment below.

8 thoughts on “ Ford Superduty 4wd hubs problem QUICK FIX (ESOF) ”

I have a 99 F250 superduty with ESOF, the light on the dash doesn’t come on and does not shift into 4wd. I can jump the relays and it will shift, it will work fine but after not driving for a week or so and try the 4wd again the light does not come on or shift into 4wd. Any advice thanks.

Hey Bob, it could be your hubs or solenoid, or a crack in your lines. There are two things you could try that come to mind. You can get a vacuum gauge (possibly rent one from your local auto store) that attaches to your vacuum lines and see if sufficient PSI is being pushed to your hubs when you trigger it after that time. I’m thinking that over the time the ambient pressure in your lines is slowly decreased and the pulse that is sent after a week is now insufficient. This would point to a bad solenoid most likely. You could also use many vacuum gauges to inject pressure into your hubs which would tell you what kind of PSI is needed to lock them. I’ve done this in the past to diagnose and it’s a fantastic tool for this, make sure you get one with many adapters for the different sizes (but you can always use tape for a retrofit).

I have a problem with a noise coming from my left(drivers) side hub trying to engage?? while I am driving. If I manually lock the hubs the problem is solved no noise, vibration or rubbing/trying to engage sound. I have a 2001 superduty with the 7.3 turbo diesel. My vacuum pump feeds to a vacuum tank, then to a solenoid. I found the right front vacuum line hanging due to a split, cut off an inch and reattached to the axle. There is no vacuum felt from either side when pulling the lines off the axle to the hubs. I have tested it in 2wd on the switch and 4wd hi on the switch. if this is a solenoid problem maybe then I would get vacuum? My pump and other parts are not the same as your video. I have found the pump and reservoir but am still looking for the solenoid. I have also been looking for a diagram of the routing of the vacuum lines but no luck so far. I may just go buy a length of tube to bypass the truck to test the system to see if I can get vacuum to the hubs and do the manual tire spin you showed in the video. That would at least show me whether it is the solenoid or lines right? Hope you have an answer as I have driving with the manual lock on so I don’t damage the hubs with them trying to engage or rub. Another mechanic said I may have a DRY hub??? But since no problem when locked I think it is a vacuum problem. I do need to know when vacuum should and should not be present. A buddy had a similar problem in his 2012 F150 but he said that there was vacuum present in 2wd and he found a leak in the hose near the hub that he sealed. But since he had the gas engine, different year and model it doesn’t seem to help me. Thanks for any help you may have.

Hi Mark, sorry for the late reply you got stuck in spam somehow. If you’re still having the 4×4 issue with your 2001 Superduty here is a little bit of help.

I do need to know when vacuum should and should not be present.

Vacuum SHOULD always be present in the lines (between the pump and the solenoid at the very least). Regardless if you are in 4wd or not, it is charged and ready to send a pulse to the hubs if you decide to turn on/off 4wd.

The function of the vacuum hubs has been compared to a ball-point pen in that the action to engage is almost identical to the action to disengage. There is a vacuum pulse (not full-time) applied to engage the hubs and then the vacuum shuts off. To disengage, a similar (but shorter) pulse is applied. Those who think that the vacuum “holds” the hubs in a locked position are misinformed.

If there is no vacuum in the lines when you turn the key to the on position, the vacuum pump will start to try and bring the lines to a “vacuum” state. The pump will turn off when the system reaches a certain vacuum strength. Don’t think it should run every time you turn on the key. So, (while the key is in the ACC or ON position) we know there should always be vacuum in the lines so if you pull a line off of anything, causing the lines to lose vacuum, then you will hear the vacuum pump kick on (if pump is functioning correctly).

If you trace any of the vacuum lines from your pump you will find the solenoid. It’ll go from the pump -> solenoid -> then to each hub.

Is the 4or vaccuum solenoid controlled by ground? PWM? I’ve got 13v on center pin on solenoid, and ground showing on other two pins, but the grounds wont light a test light.

I don’t actually know, hopefully someone else will chime in and document this for everyone, but in my video I demonstrate a method to bypass the solenoid to prove that all else is functioning.

I have a 2008 Ford f350 super duty 4×4 single axle fx4 and when I put it in 4×4 it isn’t working but the shift lights are working and showing its in 4×4 high or low but isn’t going into 4wheel drive.i can here the silinoid switching over but only the back tires spin what could be wrong I’d appreciate some feed back.

Do the check I do in the video where I put it on jackstands, lock it in and check the front tires and whether they’re spinning or not, whether the front driveshaft spins, and then if the front driveshaft is spinning then try locking the hubs in manually and see if that changes anything. Get back to us with your results.

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1998 ford Expedition 4x4 isn't working

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I have a 98 Expedition and the 4x4 will not engage. When I shift it from 2wd to 4wd the light comes on but dose not engage. When I shit it from 4wd to 4wd low it will shift into low gear but not the front wheels. Any help?  

4 words; Vacuum Activated Autolocking Hubs. It could be something as simple as a vacuum line that's been pulled off. On your model year when they lose vacuum they go into unlock mode, on subsequent years lost of vacuum cause the hubs to lock.  

Where would I start to look? Any idea?  

Look at the vacuum lines from the engine down. They can get knocked off, so look closely.  

<BR> This diagram will explain it better; http://www.warn.com/powertrain/images/611/VLH 2006.PDF <BR>  

Thanks guys, I will let you know what I find  

I just wanted to add that I have an xlt 4.6 and it also has the awd setting when I looked at the diagram on the fan shroud it didnt have anything on it about the 4x4, when i got under and took a look at it i think i have an electric shift motor could that be it? if it is a vaccum line where would i look?  

I don't think the 98 Expeditions had vacuum shifting. GM vehicles had. It's probably the shift motor, they have had problems with them. Tomorrow I'll have access to info about it and post more.  

Thanks for the help if you wouldn't mind sending it to my email it is [email protected] I have been looking at my haynes manual and it looks like an easy swap just let me know if you think it might be something dif or if there is some way to test the motor once again thank you!  

Well I checked the transfer case motor and that worked fine. all of the vaccum lines looked to be fine. now what?  

I checked the front differential and the vacuum actuator that is on the front differential isn't moving. All of the lines look good so now i am really at a loss. Do you think it could be the actuator or maybe even the pump? Thanks for the time.  

I think I'll be able to check tomorrow and see what I can help you with. I've been tied up and haven't had a chance to check.  

I've been busy but maybe this will help you. Here is a page that will show you how to Diagnose problems with your electric shift 4X4 There's also been problems near the battery where the vacuum lines get eaten with acid.  

I first want to say thank you to rtf143, you have been alot of help. Second I did alot of checking and looking and I found that the vacuum motor isn't moving. I took off the vacuum lines and when I did they had vaccum one when it was in 4wd and one when its in 2wd. I took the rod off of the vacuum motor from the dif housing and the lever in the dif housing moves kinda stiff i dont know if that is supposed to be like that? Would this mean that the vacuum motor is bad thank you jesse  

Does the vacuum motor move with the lever off when vacuum is applied? That would rule out a bad motor if the vacuum move it and holds vacuum. As far as the lever, It doesn't move real easily but without trying myself, I couldn't say. Did you check out the site I sent?  

Yes i did check out the site and it did help but then when i went to pull it up out in the garage i couldn't get it to pull up. I tried to check all the stuff i could remember. i will check to make sure that is moves free off i dont think i did, then I will get back to you. Thanks  

Ps if that is the problem where do i find a new one i cant find on at any auto parts store.  

Where to get one, I don't know. If you call the dealer and see how much it is, you'll know if you want to search further. Where do you live? If it's not a hot dry area maybe a wrecking yard would have one that would work. You can can search here: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market  

I checked that web site and i didn't find one on there. I live in Minnesota, are these a common problem?  

You'd have to find out if they have an Epedition and they'd take it off. We haven't had any go out but anything can happen. I live in Oregon.  

So I am having a similar issue with my expy. Mine is a 98 4.6L 4x4. I just replaced the transfer case motor yesterday, today we had our first day of snow and i found out that the 4x4 still isn't working. The dash light all indicate that everything is working, i can hear the transfer case engage into low range, but its only spinning the back tires. When I checked the vacuum lines before they all looked good. Kinda confused about what to look for next, any pointers would be helpful.:angry::beerbottl  

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4wd is not working

• Thread starter Michael McElwain
• Start date Jun 27, 2020

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• Jun 27, 2020

Michael McElwain

I had the wrench light come on in the dash. I took it to the Ford service department. They replaced the shift motor per the diag. tree but it didn't fix the problem. They told me that I needed to replace the 4x4 module located in the right front kick panel. I have searched my truck manual and other manual and cannot find anything that states were this module is located at. Can you help me to locate this module or give me the right name of it?  

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Michael McElwain said: I had the wrench light come on in the dash. I took it to the Ford service department. They replaced the shift motor per the diag. tree but it didn't fix the problem. They told me that I needed to replace the 4x4 module located in the right front kick panel. I have searched my truck manual and other manual and cannot find anything that states were this module is located at. Can you help me to locate this module or give me the right name of it? Click to expand...

I told them to change it but they told me that the part was obsolete. They couldn't help me with it.  

Michael McElwain said: I told them to change it but they told me that the part was obsolete. They couldn't help me with it. Click to expand...

I have a 2007 Ford Expedition 4 wheel drive. I took it to the dealership for service because when I put it in 4 wheel drive, a wrench showed and said that it needs maintenance. The dealership replaced my shift motor per diag tree, but it didn't fix the issue. They told me that I needed a 4x4 module but they couldn't fix it because the part was obsolete. I would have to find it in a junkyard. These are the remaining codes that still show: P1849.1857 & 1861. Can anyone define these codes for me? Can anyone tell me where the 4x4 module is located?  

Here is module location: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/SD/sdcrowder/2013-02-19_043424_07_expedition_4x4_module.pdf  

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