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Bangkok Tours
BANGKOK TOURS WITH A PRIVATE TOUR GUIDE
Join us for a great time, great food, and great company.
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Bangkok City Tours
Bangkok Highlights tour by local transport
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Floating markets and Bangkok tour
Markets and Tham Khao Bin cave tour
Day trips from bangkok.
Historical Ayutthaya tour
Bridge River Kwai and Hellfire Pass tour
Erawan Waterfalls tour
Private city tours in Bangkok with the best possible customer service. We love our city and enjoy showing it to you, it is for a good reason that Bangkok is one of the most visited cities in the world.
Escape the hectic of Bangkok and explore the beautiful countryside of central Thailand. Enjoy a nice variety of famous markets, stunning temples and historical sites, relaxing boat tours, and impressive caves.
BKK Tours is awarded with a Certificate of Excellence by TripAdvisor since 2012. Received a Hall of Fame award which recognizes consistent excellent reviews for their private Bangkok tours and day trips.
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We invest time and effort to make our tours run as clockwork, as smooth and professional as possible, committed to organize a great experience for you. We can advice how to optimize your valuable time in Bangkok.
Latest reviews
- We had an amazing tour with Petch, she was informative and very knowledgeable which made our time with her an absolute pleasure. We were collected from our hotel on time in an air conditioned comfortable mini bus and our driver was excellent, cold water and refreshing cold towels were provided throughout the day. All of the temples we visited were so interesting and Ayutthaya was a wonderful place to visit. The lunch was at an authentic Thai restaurant with plenty of local people enjoying their weekend and the food was delicious. Would fully recommend both BKK Tours and our amazing guide Petch. read more read less Historical Ayutthaya tour Paul a. 29 Mar 2024
- We have spent two wonderful and exciting days with our tour guide Raht. She took us through historic Ayutthaya and the highlights of Bangkok. Her knowledge about history were impressive, combined with the excellent organisation of the tour. Without her we would not been able to manage all the sights. The lunch places selected were awesome, we loved the food. Thanks for everything!!! read more read less Historical Ayutthaya tour UK 27 Mar 2024
- We considered various tour options before our trip to Bangkok and honestly felt like we won the lottery in having Air as our guide! It was a long hot day to visit so many city sites but Air kept us going. She's very knowledgeable as a guide and speaks terrific English (our biggest concern in choosing a guide) but what truly makes a guide is their ability to connect with their clients in an engaging way and for this reason, I give her an A+ rating. She is fun & funny and radiates the warmest positive energy. We will always have the best memories of Bangkok thanks to her! read more read less Bangkok Highlights tour by local transport Mary S. 25 Mar 2024
- This tour is fantastic. We have done it more than once and doing it again this summer. Air is a superb guide with great english skills and knowledge and makes the tour very special with focus on you. read more read less Bangkok Highlights tour by local transport Niels C. 22 Mar 2024
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Calendar and opening times for 2024 at the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha temple) in Bangkok.
Advantages of a private tour in Bangkok
To truly make the most of your time in Bangkok, it is highly recommended that you consider booking a private tour. From navigating the city easily to experiencing the local culture authentically, a private tour guide can provide valuable insights and advice. Save time, stay safe, and get a personalized experience with a private tour guide in Bangkok.
Amazing day tour of Bangkok
Our 700th review on TripAdvisor: Amazing day tour of Bangkok. We wouldn’t have been able to do half of this without booking with your company. Highly, highly recommended tour!
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Amazing tour! We actually were the only ones on the tour this day & had a great private guided experience around Bangkok. Loved touring around on various modes of transport & seeing big sites + hidden off the beaten path sites. Thank you!!!!
Definitely recommend! I was on my first trip to Bangkok a few weeks ago and had very little time to explore – Saichon’s tour was the perfect choice for me and I am so glad I did it! My flight was delayed and I arrived at the tour an hour late. Saichon was very helpful, responsive and flexible – he simply rearranged for me to meet him at the time I could. The tour was also longer than expected as we covered basically everything worth seeing on a walk through all the highlight areas. I definitely also saw things and neighbourhoods I would never have seen on my own.
was very knowledgeable and covered so many areas we would never find on own our own. Some really cool little hidden spots and the famous ones too!
We would like to thank you for a memorable and enjoyable dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya Princess dinner cruise. Your communication was faultless. Our English speaking tour guide Anna was helpful and friendly, in fact we couldn’t have done it without her. Our driver battled heavy traffic and accidents to get us there in time. We thoroughly enjoyed the food, the fantastic service and the amazing singer. We cannot fault this tour. It is excellent value for money. Thank you so much, we would do this tour again and again. Regards Lisa Ashurst, Australia
Highlights and Hidden Gems of Bangkok private tour Simon really knows Bangkok. My group of 7 family members including a 3 year old followed Simon through the street of Bangkok as he explained the history of the places we visited. Simon was very attentive to our needs and issues. Walking the streets in the 30+ temperature was hot for all of us. Simon realizing this, was quick to switch from walking to each sight to a Tuk Tuk ride. We all had a great time. I very happy I selected Sion for this tour and highly recommend him as a tour guide.
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Amy Suksamai
Sawaddee Kha (Hello) My name is Amy. I'm an energetic and resourceful Tour Guide several ...
Kingkamon Sanguanpibool
"Kung" is my nick name, friendly and easy going person with service mind. I love Travelling ...
I am a guide in Bangkok, Thailand, I can offer attractions in Bangkok and any place in Thailand. It ...
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Hi everyone, I have been working as a tour guide since 2008 - mostly as a bicycle tourist guide. I ...
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I'm a professional tour consultant. Done my MBA in travel and tourism management. I'm fluent ...
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Hello , I’m Chanisa. I was born in Nakhon Pathom. Now , live in Bangkok. I have been working ...
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Ladies & Gentlemen, Please feel free to call me ‘Tom’. Being a native Bangkokian, I was born, ...
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Puukii Moonlasan
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The undisputed kingpin of Southeast Asian tourism and youthful hedonism in Thailand, Bangkok is a heady mix of sounds, smells and sights that awe and overwhelm in equal measure. Most first-time visitors head straight for the famous streets of Banglamphu, where the gaudy and ceaseless movement of Khao San Road continues well into the night. It is spots like these that have driven Bangkok to the forefront of international party tourism, and for many the neon clubs and super-bars of this downtown region have become something of a rite of passage. But there’s much more to see and do here than meets the eye, and most all Bangkok tour guides would be quick to stress the city’s political importance, standing as it does at the very heart of Thai governance. It’s also home to a countless array of temples, from the opulent Grand Palace to the sparkling Golden Mount. But it doesn’t stop there; Bangkok has also long-been fabled as the street food king of the world, home to better Pad Thai conjurers than any city in the county and host to some of the most creative culinary outlets going. These can be spotted right across the town, hidden curiously down the backstreets near the Chao Phraya River or steaming endlessly outside the Muay Thai arenas of the centre.
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Thailand Private Tours & Local Tour Guides
Plan a trip to thailand with local tour guides, and bangkok, chiang mai, phuket and more..
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Ladies & Gentlemen, Please feel free to call me "Tom". Being a native Bangkokian, I was born, has grown up and worked in longer than 30 years. The capital city of Thailand, Bangkok is mixed together between new and old, modern and traditional. No matter what kind of tourists you are, people watching lovers, history/culture learners, shopping paradise, gourmet tasty foods…, Bangkok is for sure the right spot for you to land and enjoy it, then I’m pleased to show you around and guide through it, sharing its background story not only its well-known attractions but also off the beaten paths and hidden gems. If you need to find something unique, I’m ready in taking you to its suburb and vicinity, for example, Ayutthaya, Samut Prakan and many more. Come with me and let’s marvel at the world famous Thai temples or wander among world heritage sites, breathe the fresh air along the white-sandy beach, view Thai local ways of life or visit charming old china town- or scary museum in the hospital. Whether you’re a solo traveler or in a group and any other criteria possibly have is based on what you informed me. If this is your first visit, Bangkok certainly will log you in with its magic spell and I’ll try every ways possible to let you want to come back, so let me be a part of your great journey in my hometown today. Drop me your words in need and I’ll generate a tailor-made tour according to your own interests and conditions. Thanks a lot and see you soon, Tom, ………………………………………………………………………… Credentials; - Certified and Licensed Tour Guide from The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) : A qualified tour guide, who’s legally able leading tours in Bangkok and all over Thailand since 2013. - Master Degree in Communicative English from the public university in Thailand since 2005.
We have 12 years of experience in food guiding tour in Bangkok. Our tour only conduct in English and our clients are mainly from English speaking countries. We bring our customers to taste 7 different kind of dishes.
Chatthabhol J.
Sawadee everyone. i'm petch, and i am a local guide from chiang mai, north thailand. i am fluent in english and also have a tour guide license. i really enjoyed traveling and making new friends. while i travel. i was born in ching mai, and i got to experience the tourist attractions in chiang mai and chiang rai provinces: exp, temples, national parks, local restaurants,local people, hill tribe villages, coffee shops, etc. i would love to travel to new places in thailand, explore the world, and share my experiences to help others make the right decision or schedule when they want to visit a new place. thank you so much .
Pattaranin P.
I love to drive because i want to travelling and see what it waitting for me at the destination but i will be cool to have someone share great moment together , new thailand tour guides.
Well, here is Tour Guide Nusara speaking. I welcome you all to the beautiful land of smiles Thailand. I live in Bangkok and I love to share the Thai culture with the visitors, visiting to Thailand. My hobbies are playing sports (Badminton, Swimming, etc), reading books, and playing with my pet, as I'm a cat lover! I can also cook! I like to cook Thai food such as the Papaya salad!. The strong points that set me apart from others would be that I'm friendly and I'm very flexible! My passion is traveling. so I would love to take everyone to enjoy and see how the beautiful Thailand is! Please, join me!
Chawanwit (kay) K.
My name is chawanwit or “kay”. i was born, raised, and educated in bangkok, thailand. i’ve been working as a licensed professional tour guide since 1984 and also escorted tours overseas. i worked for chris rowthorn the lonely planet’s author for 8 years. i started my tour company in november 2019, i am running a business base on my entire tourism experience, and knowledge and i do have a small team of professional tour guides incorporated. we know the city of bangkok and nearby attractions like the back of our hand. in addition to knowing the famous places, we know the secret and rarely visited places. most importantly, we know how to get you around bangkok comfortably and efficiently. and we know the best local restaurants where you can enjoy the food that we locals enjoy. so, please contact me and let us help you get the best out of your visit to thailand. .
We would like to share our knowledge & experience with visitors and make them feel comfortable with the city. Of course, we love our job!
Pannathat C.
I am a professional english speaking tour guide who is a local in chiang mai and has been involved in thailand tourism for 20 years. my strong experience can ensure your satisfaction and fun during travel. i am truely cares about sustainable tourism that environment and local community must be protected. my personal funny character and all-time smile on face will make your day brighter. , popular thailand private tours.
Bangkok Full Day Tour of Three Most Magnificent Temples
If you have been in bangkok but never visited the thai temples before, you should do it to truly understand what the thai way of life is about. with this tour, you will visit three of the most magnificent thai temples, a must-see that travellers should not miss for whatever reasons. are you ready for a tour that you will remember for the rest of your life these marvelous structures will make you life long memorable because wherever one turns you will be amazed how worthwhile it is..
Phuket Private Tour as-you-like
This tour cover my favorite places in phuket island. please choose 4-6 places from the list of more than 20 places in phuket, than i will make an itinerary according to your interests. if you have some question, please feel free to talk with me..
A Full Day Trip Pattaya Tour
According this trip, we are going to enjoy what pattaya, located on the east coast of the gulf of thailand and far away from bangkok 160 kms , has to offer. nowadays, pattaya is very famous all over the world which not only its beauty of natural settings like pattaya beach lies parallel to the city center about 2.7 km long but also the magnificent man-made things, for example, the sanctuary of truth, the tropical nongnuch garden and many more..
Phuket elephant camp, Tiger Kingdom and View Point
In this tour, i will take you to do my favorite activity in phuket. you will excite at the elephant camp that you can do many activities here. the most popular is elephant trekking. and then you will be close up with tiger like never before at tiger kingdom. the last stop point will be the view point that you can see 3 beaches from here., new thailand private tours.
A Full Day Trip Bangkok-Pattaya
Regarding this trip, we are going to explore and enjoy what pattaya has to offer. it is on the east coast of the gulf of thailand and far away from bangkok 160 kms approximately. nowadays, pattaya is very famous all over the world which not only its beauty of natural settings like pattaya beach lies parallel to the city center about 2.7 km long but also the magnificent man-made things, for example, the sanctuary of truth, the tropical nongnuch garden and many more..
A Full Day Tour Bangkok Suburb
Regarding this trip, you all will admire the biggest and tallest stupa of thailand called phrapathom chedi in nakhon pathom province. other than that, the human imagery museum is an attraction very interesting for you to prove that how life like they are. also, at jesada technik museum will let you enjoy a lot of old and classic vehicles and life along the waterways at mahasawas canal which we ride you immerse the peaceful and tranquil atmosphere..
Bangkok Chinatown Half Day Tour
Bangkok's chinatown is one of the most authentic and original spots in bangkok, when i was quite young, yaowarat is one of my favorite areas for strolling. there are a lot of tiny lanes and narrow alleyways which have its own charming for exploration. moreover, yaowarat road at night time, with abundance of tasty food stalls and restaurants opening up and electric neon lights shining the air until the wee hours..
A Personal Shopper
Take you on a shopping spree tailored to your own tastes, assist you find what you want & save your time, negotiate a good price, the best place to buy thai silk, thai arts & crafts, thai hand-made jewelry, international & local designer clothing boutiques , genuine wholesalers and chatuchak weekend market: where to buy a thousand local products.
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Chiang Mai Cultural & Natural Tour
Chiang mai is a place where you can find mountains, winter mist, and vibrant hill tribes. in 1296, the city was established as the capital of the ancient lanna kingdom. our first stop at tha phae gate. a landmark that is well-known and must be photographed. head to the mountains, roughly 17 km from the city, to view wat phra that doi suthep & wat pha lat in the jungle. after that, go to long neck village & have lunch at dan thewada. take pleasure in the shady scenery & waterfalls at the end..
Chiang Mai Night Temple Tour
Wat umong suan phutthatham to explore the tunnels, pagoda, marvel at the natural surroundings or for a meditation retreat, you will leave with a sense of peace and appreciation for the quiet, buddhist way of life. after that, go to the famous temple. this sacred temple was built in the 14th century and has a long and colorful history to learn about. the temple grounds had a variety of stunning statues, a golden pagoda, murals, a view point, and other artwork that showcased and honored buddhism..
Chiang Rai Day Tour ( From Chiang Mai )
Begin our journey in chiang mai and move towards chiang rai city.take a day to visit the most popular places in northern thailand. visit wat rong khun (white temple), wat rong seur ten (blue temple), baan dam(black museum), and then meet the karen long neck tribe village.reach the golden triangle, where thailand, laos, and myanmar come together at the common border of 3 countries. our itinerary includes a boat trip along the renowned mekong river and a visit to the laos market near the border..
Bangkok Big Buddha and The Old Community
Visiting wat paknam bhasicharoen (big buddha)by boat . traveling to attractions that are unique and memorable in the heart of thai people such as a museum(baan kudichin).learning how to cook thai food using fresh and local ingredients. i'm telling this stories about way of life and waiting for you to see with your owns eyes..
Thailand Tour Reviews
Estefania R.
HALF DAY TOUR FROM BANGKOK TO FLOATING MARKET
“ Very nice trip with an amazing guide! ”
Nusara was very nice with us! She was very attentive and was explaining us everything, giving many details about what we were visiting, live style, history... we were very comfortable with her. 100% recomended!
Thank you so much for your review. I had a really good time with you both. And really hope to see you again with your baby. Have a nice day ever. Miss you. Nusara R.
Alexander D.
“ worst guide ever ”
only a glorified taxi driver. took us to a paddle boat center that charged us $125 for two hours and he would not even get in the boat with us. we later learned the place charged twice the going rate too! no tour guide info hardly at all all day! stay away
DAY TRIP TO AYUTTHAYA FROM BANGKOK
stay away from this guide. he is a glorified taxi driver who does not care about his customers except to make money
Thailand Private Tour Guide
Thailand frequently asked questions, do you need a tour guide in thailand gowithguide find your perfect tour guide at gowithguide. relax and cherish unforgettable tours with loved ones. create personalized tours for a truly memorable trip, how many days is sufficient in thailand gowithguide find your perfect tour guide at gowithguide. relax and cherish unforgettable tours with loved ones. create personalized tours for a truly memorable trip, what is the best month to go to thailand gowithguide find your perfect tour guide at gowithguide. relax and cherish unforgettable tours with loved ones. create personalized tours for a truly memorable trip, how much is a private tour guide in thailand gowithguide find your perfect tour guide at gowithguide. relax and cherish unforgettable tours with loved ones. create personalized tours for a truly memorable trip, why are private tours better gowithguide find your perfect tour guide at gowithguide. relax and cherish unforgettable tours with loved ones. create personalized tours for a truly memorable trip, latest thailand articles.
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Our private tour guides know Bangkok and the surrounding region very well, speak the local thai language plus the other languages, too, and can help you to understand the local people, culture, traditions, and history better while you are in Bangkok. During the tour in Bangkok, you will not have any problems with locals if a tour guide is by your side. Your local personal tour guide in Bangkok will help you learn a lot about the region and share only the most exciting knowledge and best experiences with you. Check out some of the local sights & attractions of Bangkok, wildlife & nature, and ask your personal tour guide to show you the local gems hidden from a regular tourist without a professional tour guide. Before you travel to Bangkok, be sure you have enough local currency Thai baht with you in case you need to buy a souvenir or tip a tour guide!
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Our trip was awesome and guide, tony did a excellent job .
I loved! Best tour in Bangkok! We went to river tour Amphawa! Very fun! Than to the train market and we ride the train! Perfect! Tommy is an amazing guide!
Ben was an amazing tour guide for the floating markets and train markets. He took great photos, guided us to the best shops and lunch. I highly recommend this tour!
Alice was great! She asked us what kind of food we liked, what we didn’t like, if we had any allergies, and made great decisions based on that! We were full by our third stop, and walked it off as Alice gave us a tour of China town and explained the history! We had a great time!
It was a very enjoyable experience. Opart was so friendly and knowledgeable. I did the tour before and loved it and I wanted to do it again for my family to have the same experience and they were thrilled. I definitely recommend this tour to anyone specially if you go with Opart.
Amazing trip on the Dai Inthannon. Kiki was à very great guide.
Great trip, my family was very happy. Thank you :)
Great trip. I love to get away from the things that many tourists too and have memorable experiences. This day gave me that and also some great food.
AJ Davison D.
Great day out.
9 things you should know before visiting Bangkok
Apr 25, 2024 • 6 min read
Make the most of your time in bustling Bangkok with our 9 insider tips © Witthaya Prasongsin / Getty Images
I moved to Bangkok in 1999, a time when most visitors to Thailand reluctantly did a night in this megacity before beelining to an island or the north. Synonymous with traffic jams, pollution and urban sprawl, the Thai capital was largely seen as an unwanted but obligatory stopover.
Decades later, things have changed and Bangkok is now the destination of choice for many visitors – with good reason. Easier to get around and cleaner than ever, with a vibrant eating and drinking scene that caters to just about every budget and an enviable spread of intriguing sights and fantastic-value shopping, the city has more to offer than ever before.
Yet like any big city, Bangkok has its quirks and surprises. Here's what you need to know before you go.
Find out what you should know in advance about Thailand , including important cultural, religious and legal issues, etiquette and health.
Bangkok is easier to get around than ever
Bangkok used to be synonymous with traffic jams and air pollution. The jams still happen, but the good news is that the city’s public transportation system has grown immensely. The various above and underground rail networks currently unite 10 different lines – with more in the works – and 192 stations, including trains linking both of Bangkok’s international airports and the city center.
On top of this, taxis remain ubiquitous and cheap – though subject to the issues that make the city’s traffic so infamous – while quirky public transportation systems such as the city’s river and canal taxis provide a slow but steady (and scenic) way to get around.
Crime happens but it's rare
Thailand has a low crime rate and is generally considered a safe country. Bangkok suffers from the same type of violent crimes as any big city, but anecdotally, is considered a safe place. Apart from occasional bag snatching and theft, the most dangerous thing in the city is its traffic (Thailand’s roads are some of the deadliest of any country). Solo women travelers and locals I’ve spoken to also report feeling safe in the city.
A particular Bangkok annoyance is scams directed at tourists. These typically involve taxi drivers who refuse to use their meters, or tuk-tuk drivers and/or well-dressed, English-speaking men who appear out of nowhere offering free tours that inevitably lead to dodgy gem shops or tailors. The good news is that most of these situations are easy to spot and relatively low-pressure; if something seems off, simply walk away.
It’s also worth noting that Bangkok’s police don’t have a great reputation. Steer clear of them unless you really need help.
Street food isn’t the only good food
Western chefs and food media have been raving about Bangkok’s street food for more than a decade. And it’s a fun, often delicious way to eat. But if you relegated yourself to street food alone, you’d miss the entire scope of Bangkok’s cuisine.
Supplement those streetside noodles with meals at the charming, decades-old restaurants in the old town – these are the places that get the most praise in the Thai-language media. In Bangkok’s newer districts, such as along Thanon Sukhumvit, consider a Japanese meal – the city is home to one of the largest populations of Japanese people outside of Japan.
If your budget allows, consider a splurge restaurant. While the rest of the world was obsessing over its street food, Bangkok's dining scene went in the opposite direction and today is home to several modern, cutting-edge upscale restaurants.
Sometimes it's too hot to handle
Bangkok is one of the hottest capital cities in the world, with an average mean temperature of 29°C (84°F). This heat is compounded by intense humidity and the urban environment, which reflects and retains heat, meaning the city often feels much, much ( much ) hotter. April is Bangkok's hottest month, with an average daily max temperature of 35°C (96 ° F) and during the “winter” in December and January, temperatures rarely dip below 20°C (68°F).
All of this means you shouldn't try to cover too much ground on foot – an already difficult task given the city’s lack of pedestrian infrastructure. If you do walk, learn the technique of regularly ducking into air-conditioned malls, hotel lobbies and 7-Elevens to cool off.
Likewise, pack light clothing, but remember – Thais are conservative when it concerns showing skin in public and Bangkok is not the beach.
Bangkok is a queer-friendly city
LGBTIQ+ people are made to feel welcome in Bangkok, which is generally considered Asia’s most queer-friendly city. The epicenter of the gay scene is Thanon Silom, especially in and around Soi 4, which is ostensibly Asia’s biggest queer nightlife area.
Thankfully, it looks like this queer-friendly vibe will extend to legislation. In 2023, the Thai parliament passed draft bills on same-sex marriage, which are expected to become laws, making Thailand the first country in Southeast Asia to allow same-sex marriage.
Keep in mind that public displays of affection between people of any gender are frowned upon in Thailand.
There are better budget options than Khao San Road
If you want to be based in the world’s most famous backpacker strip – and all that that entails – book a bed or room on Thanon Khao San, generally known as Khao San Road. It’s lively and fun, and provides easy access to the city’s old town.
But having moved slightly upscale in recent decades, Khao San Road no longer represents the best value area to stay in Bangkok. And with loud bars and a boozy vibe, it’s definitely not the most peaceful place to stay.
If you want to have access to the backpacker amenities but don’t want the noise and hassle, consider staying in the streets nearby, such as Thanon Rambutri or Thanon Phra Athit.
Monsoon season brings sudden surprises
During the annual monsoon, from approximately May to October, Bangkok’s streets occasionally turn into rivers. During this time of year, don’t be surprised if you have to camp out on an elevated street corner or in a 7-Eleven until the waters recede.
Malls are part of city life
While shopping malls are a dying breed in much of the west, they’re thriving in Bangkok. The city is home to some of the most over-the-top shopping centers in the world, which in contemporary Bangkok, have a dual function as (conveniently air-conditioned) social centers. Thais gather at the city’s more than 500 shopping centers to chat, eat, take selfies and occasionally make purchases, and so should you.
Bangkok essentially shuts down during the Thai New Year
Every year around April, Bangkok grinds to a halt during Thai New Year, known as Songkran or the water festival. The tradition has its origins in the cleansing role of water, but these days it essentially means that Bangkok becomes ground zero to a multi-day, raucous water battle.
Whether you're into it or not, you’ll be splashed with water and/or smeared with baby powder. Don’t even attempt stepping outside your door with your Sunday best on and don’t expect your favorite restaurant, or that museum or monument to be open (shopping centers, inevitably, will be operating). Discover more about Bangkok's festivals and seasonal attractions in our guide to the best time to visit the city .
Weed isn’t exactly legal in Bangkok
In June 2022, marijuana and hemp were removed from the Category 5 narcotics list in Thailand. However, there are still many restrictions and smoking marijuana in public is not legal and is not recommended.
Yes, there's a sex industry, but it's easy to avoid
“One Night in Bangkok” is indeed a reality. But if you steer clear of the main red-light zones at night – namely Thanon Patpong, Soi Nana and Soi Cowboy – it's likely you won’t even witness this side of the city.
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How (and Why) to Forage for Ant Eggs in a Northeastern Thai Forest
Though Isan cuisine has proven popular around the world, chefs in the northeastern Thai region are still fighting for recognition domestically, using foraged ingredients and fine dining techniques to rewrite their culinary reputation
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Share All sharing options for: How (and Why) to Forage for Ant Eggs in a Northeastern Thai Forest
Gather eggs between march and may., prepare for thorny underbrush and an armada of hungry mosquitos., ants are creatures of habit. if a tree has yielded eggs before, it will do so again., all it takes are a series of sharp, well-directed shakes of a branch to deposit handfuls of pearl barley-like white “caviar” into a net., hurry. ants will chase you when you take their eggs. if they catch you, they bite — hard..
These rules are second nature to chef Weerawat “Num” Triyasenawat and second-generation forager Chimphan “Auntie Noi” Sripha, who regularly collect ingredients from the forests of Thailand’s northeastern Isan region. After dusting their haul with potato starch, which repels swarming ants, they calmly count their bounty and taste a couple of plump eggs, which burst in the mouth with the flavor of fresh milk.
Locals typically use ant eggs for spicy salads or soup. Sripha combines them with sweet tree leaves and queen ants (which have a mildly hallucinogenic effect) in a delicately spiced stew that’s typical for the region. A longtime proponent of foraging, just like his culinary idol, French chef Michel Bras, Num uses the eggs at Samuay & Sons , his restaurant in Udon Thani, the third largest city in Isan .
“We have been eating insects for centuries,” Num says. “Foraging is [part of our shared] wisdom, from [when we were in] survival mode.”
A full morning’s labor yields enough eggs for one dinner service — not a huge return on investment. But Num says the exercise isn’t about gathering enough eggs to fill out a menu. It’s about reframing the culinary narrative around Isan. Though the region is a huge agricultural powerhouse, it’s relatively poor and chronically underrated by city folk from Bangkok and Central Thailand, akin to the divide between coastal capitals and flyover states in the U.S.
“Most people think Isan food is humble, affordable, cheap,” he says. “I want to take what people know about Isan food and then take them somewhere else.”
Num is one of a growing number of chefs rewriting the culinary map of Thailand. Utilizing seasonal, traditional ingredients — mountain crabs, boba pearl-like mushrooms, sour forest mangoes, mole crickets — his sophisticated-yet-unpretentious dishes are upending stubborn perceptions.
As for the ant eggs, Num quickly salt-cures them, smokes them with sugarcane, and combines them with caviar from Hua Hin in Southern Thailand in an inventive take on the salad called sup nor mai. The implication is clear: If eggs from fish can be a delicacy that fetches thousands of dollars, why not eggs from Isan’s ants?
Num’s ant eggs thunder with umami, but the dish is a far cry from Isan’s reputation for fiery, tart, and salty food. While a specific, crowd-pleasing version of the region’s cuisine has become hugely popular at street food stalls in Thailand and restaurants across the U.S. — often boiled down to the “holy trinity” of grilled chicken, som tum (green papaya salad), and sticky rice — food in Udon Thani usually bears more similarities with the murky, umami-filled cuisine of Northern Thailand. Dishes often have a slightly bitter undertow, restrained acidity, absolutely no sugar, muted spice, and strong notes of pla rah, a fish sauce made by fermenting freshwater fish with salt for up to a year.
Nuance tends to get lost when people discuss Isan, which is both Thailand’s most populous region and its poorest, contributing less than 10 percent of national gross domestic product, mostly from agriculture. Centuries of cultural difference and economic inequality have created deep divides between the Northeast and the seat of power in Bangkok. Though politicians regularly woo voters in Isan in order to win seats in parliament, they rarely deliver on promises to help the region; populist administrations supported by Northeasterners never last long in the capital, either, leading to an adage: Isan votes governments into power and Bangkok kicks them out.
Without economic or political leverage, Isan is stuck in a kind of catch-22: too poor to build enough infrastructure to attract tourists, yet not enough tourism money to rise out of poverty.
The popularity of Isan cuisine initially seems like a silver bullet to solve some of the region’s woes, but the spread of food around the country and the world hasn’t historically translated into real opportunities back home. Persistent stigmas among Central Thai residents about their Northeastern neighbors continue to shape interpretations of Isan food.
“How could this region, with such culture, hard-working people, vast and diverse landscapes, and so many phenomenal Thai dishes be so overlooked?” asks Aarya Surindhara, a hotelier and restaurateur in the process of turning her childhood home in northern Isan into a hotel, Domaine du Mekong.
Surindhara finds the roots of the impasse deep in Isan’s history. The region was part of the Lao Lan Xang kingdom, the Land of a Million Elephants, from the 14th to 18th centuries, before it was conquered by France in 1893 and ceded to what was then Siam a few years later. Some of Isan’s most famous dishes are adaptations from Laos, including som tum, larb, sticky rice, and jaew (spicy sauce that accompanies grilled meat). Foods influenced by Laos are especially prominent among Isan’s farm workers because they’re easy to assemble, transportable, and eaten by hand with local leaves and herbs. Mok pla, for instance, combines freshwater fish with a heady paste of dill, chiles, makrut lime leaves, garlic, and onions, all wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed.
But in Bangkok, these Laotion influences aren’t seen as anything to be proud of. Capital residents regularly use the term “Lao” as a pejorative, meaning “country bumpkin” or someone unsophisticated and credulous. And that’s not the only aspect of Isan cuisine that Bangkokians have rejected.
After World War II, workers from the Northeast migrated en masse to the capital, where they mostly took up blue-collar jobs as taxi drivers, maids, security guards, and construction workers. Homesick for their own cuisine, some migrants started selling som tum, chargrilled meats, and larb from food stalls by the city’s Victory Monument. But locals — many of them averse to funky pla rah — quickly reinterpreted these dishes, giving birth to items like “som tum Thai,” a sour-salty-sweet-spicy melange that adds dried shrimp and peanuts (typical Central Thai flourishes) to the standard green papaya.
“Isan food in Bangkok is so different,” Num says, creating a sort of “parallel cuisine” in which almost every flavor is louder than what you get back home. “It’s spicier. And when [chefs] do use pla rah, it’s so much more pronounced.” He notes that Bangkok chefs usually use too much sugar as well, echoing a common complaint among chefs about the current state of Thai food in general. Num’s hypothesis for the reason behind Bangkok’s sweet tooth? “Sweetness equals wealth.”
In the last few decades, immigrants from Myanmar have gradually taken over a lot of those blue-collar jobs. But economic opportunities in Isan have remained limited, and many ambitious young folks still expect to migrate to the capital. This has been especially true for chefs, who have developed a playbook for culinary stardom: After rising from humble beginnings in a small town, they develop an innovative take on a local cuisine, earn a Michelin Bib Gourmand or other recognition, conquer Bangkok with a chain of restaurants, expand abroad, and maybe land a Netflix special. This narrative leaves out a critical final step: widely affecting perceptions of regional Thai cuisine.
Rejecting that narrative and eschewing Bangkok for Udon Thani has turned chef Num into a folk hero of sorts. Though he has his side projects — a Thai restaurant inspired by the 1970s and ’80s opening in Bangkok, a pop-up in Khao Yai to help reforest the surrounding mountains — he continues to cook alongside his brother, chef Voravat “Joe,’’ at Samuay & Sons, a restaurant named for his mother and inspired by his father, an insurance salesman who served as the family cook.
His ringtone, Nino Rota’s “Speak Softly, Love” (the theme to The Godfather ), hints at the role he plays in the local food world. He constantly takes calls to connect chefs with producers, advise culinary students, or weigh in on ingredient questions.
“I don’t do this for myself,” Num says in between calls. “I just want to help people get good money.”
In Khon Kaen, a neighboring city, chefs Paisarn Cheewinsiriwat and Kanyarat Thanomsang have found their own riches at Kaen , a reference to the city and to Paisarn’s parents’ timber business (“kaen” means “wood”). The dining room, which is predictably filled with wood, is also decorated by the best in local textiles, and local music plays from the speakers.
“We have a saying: ‘Gindan kue sinsap,’ or ‘poverty can yield treasure,’” Paisarn says. “The herbs that grow here have such strong flavors because they have to be strong enough to survive. There are so many good things in this land.”
While working as a chef at a luxury wellness resort, Paisarn dreamt of one day cooking with Iranian caviar, Canadian lobster, and all of the world’s most expensive ingredients. Now that he finally has his own restaurant, his perspective on luxury has shifted. “The way of being elegant has changed,” he says.
Kaen’s seasonal menu allows Khon Kaen’s ingredients to shine with simple European-inflected techniques. Local wagyu steaks are grilled and served with charred local sugar peas and mushrooms. A rustic vegetable stew seasoned with pla rah is dressed up as minestrone. Bottles of the local moonshine — once the purview of celebrating villagers — are given the digestif treatment, wheeled out on a trolley as Isan eau-de-vie.
In Ubon Ratchathani in southeastern Isan, Sirorat Thowtho, who goes by Pa Chef (Auntie Chef), also embraces local inspiration, but she doesn’t feel the need to attract outside customers. She named her restaurant Mok , a reference to the farmer’s dish mok, but also to mok’s other meaning in Thai: “hidden.”
“If anyone doesn’t intend to come looking for us, they won’t be able to find it,” she says. “It’s a hidden gem.”
Those lucky enough to find the restaurant are treated to a multicourse Isan omakase, including local fish made into sausage and served in its broth with dollops of chile paste and osetra caviar, local snails cooked in white wine a la escargot, and dancing shrimp (served grilled instead of alive, as they’re often eaten locally) with shrimp biscuits and pineapple salsa.
“In the eyes of outsiders, this land is full of drought,” Thowtho says. “But Isan is the source of the best meat, vegetables, and jasmine rice in the world.”
Chefs don’t have to serve local cuisine in order to serve their communities. Tawara “Earl” Ananthikulchai felt lost after graduating from college, so he taught himself how to bake.
“After I decided to stay at home, I had only one idea: bring what I learned about French pastry to my hometown,” he says. Ananthikulchai now runs the popular patisserie Le Bonheur out of his childhood home. He prides himself on introducing treats like Black Forest cake, poached pears in red wine, and perfect scones to Udon Thani’s burgeoning scene.
These chefs no longer need a big glitzy place in Bangkok to prove their chops and attract followers. Though they have seemingly opposite approaches to attracting the attention of diners outside Udon Thani, Samuay & Sons and Mok both earned Bib Gourmand recognition in Michelin’s inaugural Isan guide in 2023.
“It used to be very difficult to be a talented chef stuck in an Alpine lodge somewhere,” says Gavin Vongkusolkit, owner of the Ad Lib hotel in Khon Kaen. He cites social media as a big shift in how fans find and honor great cooking. “Now with Michelin and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, people travel for food. They’re looking for something different.”
Foreign audiences, like those that control awards-granting organizations and support Isan restaurants abroad, have been especially receptive to the region’s transformation. But global affirmation only gets a chef so far.
“I want to see Samuay & Sons as a good place to eat for everyone, for local people and as a destination,” Num says.
During many dinner services, Samuay & Sons caters to locals, who arrive for a quick bite from the a la carte menu, which is cheaper and quicker than the tasting menu. They order simple dishes like massaman curry and the chef’s own childhood favorite, kai pullo, eggs and pork braised in Chinese five-spice powder. Ant eggs don’t make an appearance.
“The a la carte menu is a straightforward focus on flavor. The [tasting menu] courses are meant to be innovative,” he says. “I hope Michelin understands the concept.” Num doesn’t see the two menus as mutually exclusive. He believes he can push boundaries without alienating his local customers. “The concept of authenticity is Western,” he says.
This big-tent conception has allowed the region’s restaurants to gain traction with many types of customers, as chefs cook with local ingredients at various price points. It also seems like Num’s broader message about Isan’s value is getting through to diners.
“Seven years ago, people had no idea what I was trying to do,” Num says. “But now we can say we are pioneers.”
Chawadee Nualkhair is a Bangkok-based food writer.
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Rule 1: Gather eggs between March and May. Rule 2: Prepare for thorny underbrush and an armada of hungry mosquitos. Rule 3: Ants are creatures of habit.