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RV Underbelly Insulation 101

February 3, 2021 by Charlotte Phillips

Last updated on June 23rd, 2023 at 09:13 am

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Are you in the market for a new RV and confused by “RV Underbelly Insulation” listed under the non-standard features?

Maybe you have an older RV and you’re looking to add underbelly insulation to your rig, already aware of the many benefits. Or perhaps your current underbelly insulation is getting old and in need of replacement.

No matter the reason, let’s learn about RV underbelly insulation and why it might matter to you, especially if you plan on doing any winter camping !

What Is RV Underbelly Insulation?

RV underbelly insulation is exactly what it sounds like; insulation made for the underside or underbelly of your rig. It is not always a standard feature, especially on older rigs, but you may find yourself wondering why it isn’t standard once you learn more!

RV underbelly insulation is often hidden beneath your RV’s protective underbelly plastic, usually, a material known as coroplast. You may not have this special protective layer if you own an older rig, but it may be worth looking into, especially if you install some insulation and need to protect it!

RV underbelly insulation may feel like a strange addition to any rig but it’s there to protect your pipes, warm up your floors, and keep the inside of your rig more fully insulated! It is definitely a more in-demand feature now than it ever has been before. And for good reason!

I live full-time on the road in my trailer, and this comes with plenty of ups and downs. One aspect of life on the road I pay a lot of attention to is how I keep my rig cool in summer and warm in winter since I’m on the road year-round. RV underbelly insulation is arguably one of the simplest ways of ramping up the protection your rig has over winter, but be sure to winterize your rig effectively too!

Does My RV Have Underbelly Insulation?

You may be wondering if your existing RV already has underbelly insulation. You may not be able to tell right away, especially if your insulation is properly covered by a thin sheet of coroplast. However, should you have coroplast beneath your RV, it should be a fairly easy removal process.

They are often held to your trailer’s frame by some simple screws or other attachments. Chances are, if you have a coroplast cover for your undercarriage, you have insulation inside of it. Many suggest not altering your coroplast covering in any way unless it is already damaged. Moving the plastic sheeting may result in damage to it or the frame, and it could be an eyesore if you’ve just forked out on painting your rig .

An RV dealer or authorized repair shop may be your best bet should you need your underbelly insulation looked at. However, if you’re planning to replace your coroplast or are a more skilled handyperson than the average RV owner, feel free to remove your coroplast cover to check on the status of your insulation!

Many RV owners who have done their own underbelly repair report satisfaction in doing it themselves, reporting that they learned a lot more about how their trailer works. The underbelly hides a lot of important things, and you may find fixing it yourself to be an informative task. Propane lines, water lines, black and gray water tanks , and other necessary RV components lie beneath your frame, and it’s always a good idea to familiarize yourself with things of that nature!

What Are The Benefits Of Underbelly Insulation?

Underbelly insulation is a wonderful feature that may or may not come standard if you are shopping for a new RV. I wish my 1976 travel trailer had it, but it is a newer development in the RV world. I am attempting to install it myself, as the benefits far outweigh the cons!

Added Insulation

As the name suggests, underbelly insulation adds a wonderful layer of insulation to the floor of your rig. As a full-timer , I find I lose a lot of heat in the winter through my floor. If I had underbelly insulation, I have no doubt that my heater wouldn’t have to work so hard! 

The same goes for your air conditioner too. Cold air sinks while hot air rises, which means you no doubt are losing that wonderful cold air through your bare floors! If you had underbelly insulation, it would assist in the efficiency of your air conditioning unit .

Underbelly insulation is most important in winter, given how harsh winter temperatures can get. However, even if you only camp in the warmer months, this extra layer will greatly improve the use of your air conditioner. Underbelly insulation is often the number one addition to make when considering a 4-season RV versus a 3 or less-season rig!

Protection For Pipes And Tanks

Underbelly insulation is a great invention for your RV’s water lines, pipes, and tanks. Some underbellies are heated on newer RVs to protect your water lines from freezing in the winter. This can be a devastating repair for RV owners, should a pipe freeze and burst . 

Underbelly insulation, whether heated or not, can protect your intricate water system, as well as keep both your gray and black water tanks from freezing too. You’d be amazed how much a few sheets of insulation and coroplast can help when it comes to cold-weather camping! You’ll likely never have to worry about your pipes freezing again.

Protection For Your RV’s Frame And Subfloor

Since my RV is a tad on the older side, I have had to deal with corrosion and holes in my trailer’s frame. I do not have a protective coroplast sheet underneath my rig, and the holes in my trailer’s frame came as an unwelcome surprise. I have now replaced all of my rig’s flooring due to water splashing up through the holes and damaging my subfloor!

If I had had underbelly insulation and a coroplast cover, I would not have had this issue. My frame, no matter how old, would have been protected from water damage and other potentially damaging items found while traveling. Rocks, debris, branches, and other things found while driving will be deflected by the coroplast, keeping your frame and subfloor safe!

Deterrent For Rodent And Other Pests 

Having an intact coroplast cover as well as underbelly insulation can be a natural pest deterrent. The watertight seal often associated with underbelly protection also defends your rig from mice, chipmunks, spiders, and any other pests that may want to make your RV their new home.

Having underbelly insulation and protection may be increasingly valuable to those of you that store your RV at any point. Pests often seek RVs as shelter in the colder months, and it is easy for mice and the like to squeeze their way through any hole in your frame. If you have a completely intact coroplast cover and insulation above that, the chance of a pest getting through is a lot slimmer.

Because of the persistence of pests, you may want to inspect your underbelly often, especially if you plan on storing your rig come winter. Any crack or hole in your underbelly is a doorway for pests, and you may not realize you have an issue until it’s too late!

What Are The Cons Of Underbelly Insulation?

While underbelly insulation is not often a standard feature, there are only a few reasons not to consider it. However, these cons should be noted, especially if you have existing underbelly insulation and plan on replacing it.

Covers Shoddy Workmanship

Some RVers who have had to replace their underbellies find that their rig has been put together poorly, sometimes even finding damaged pipes or other manufacturer errors. If you are concerned about the build of your RV, especially if you begin experiencing operation errors, your underbelly may hold the answers. However, these answers are usually covered up!

Some ambitious do-it-yourself-ers tend to remove the underbelly cover on their rigs, just for their own peace of mind and maintenance access. Some RVs are built better than others, and you may find that having so many key parts of your rig covered up is not a perk.

Coroplast Is NOT Pest Proof!

You may think that having a coroplast cover over your RV’s underbelly will completely protect it from pests, especially rodents. However, coroplast is a very thin, flexible plastic material and is no match for rodent teeth. Should your coroplast be damaged in any way, or should you store your RV with food inside (this is not a good idea), a rodent will find its way in, no matter what.

This is something to keep in mind, especially when it comes to the maintenance of your underbelly. While a coroplast cover may be another layer and deterrent for many pests, it is not a fail-safe!

Weight Of Underbelly Insulation

While you should never purchase an RV that comes close to your tow vehicle’s maximum capacity, the weight of your underbelly’s insulation may be a factor. While coroplast and insulation sheets don’t tend to weigh much, some underbelly insulation can add significant weight to your rig .

Most of the time, RV manufacturers don’t make underbelly insulation very heavy. However, if it is a fix you plan to do yourself, or if a prior RV owner has done their own underbelly protection, make sure you know the materials being used. Sometimes heavy metal or insulation can be used, adding a lot of unnecessary weight to the bottom of your rig.

While this is usually a rare occurrence, it is worth considering, especially if your tow vehicle is made for lightweight rigs in the first place!

Types Of RV Underbelly Insulation

Whether you have underbelly insulation already and are hoping to replace your current stuff or perhaps install it from scratch, it’s important to know what types of insulation are out there.

The most common RV underbelly insulation products are listed below.

Rigid Foam Board

This insulation is available at hardware stores in various materials. These boards are the most common type of underbelly insulation due to their affordable price point, ease of installation, and moisture resistance. They are also fire-resistant, though can give off harmful fumes should they ever catch fire.

This type of insulation is also readily available at hardware stores and is fire-resistant. Rolls of fiberglass insulation are usually affordable but can be dangerous to handle due to the nature of fiberglass. You may also find it a difficult material to work with as it tears easily.

Spray Foam 

This is the most flexible insulation option, capable of spraying on almost anywhere. This can be valuable for a tricky underbelly, as you won’t have to measure and cut your insulation. However, spray foam can be very messy as well as costly.

No matter the option you choose, all of these materials are viable and useful for insulating the underbelly of your RV! You may wish for a professional to help you install your insulation, and they may recommend some materials over others. However, if you’re looking to install your underbelly insulation yourself, read on!

How To Insulate Your RV Underbelly Yourself

The time has come: you’ve decided to replace or install insulation along the underbelly of your RV. And you’ve decided to do it yourself! There’s nothing better than the feeling of a job well done, and it may save you a pretty penny if you choose to tackle this job on your own.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to insulating your rig’s underbelly! Take the time to gather the supplies and tools you think you’ll need, such as screwdrivers for removing parts of your RV’s underbelly, a utility knife for cutting the insulation, tape measure for accurately measuring the underbelly, etc.

Also always wear protective equipment such as a headlamp, gloves, and eye goggles or glasses. You never know what might happen when repairing any part of your RV!

1. Measure Your RV’s Underbelly

Whether you’re planning on using spray foam, fiberglass, or rigid insulation sheets, you need to accurately measure the underbelly of your RV before procuring supplies. Use a tape measure and measure every bit of your RV that you plan on covering with insulation.

Should you be installing rigid foam, make sure you measure more accurately so that you can cut the sheets to fit. It will make the process a lot smoother if you measure your pieces and cut them all before you begin installing!

2. Remove Coroplast, Existing Insulation, And Other RV Parts

Your underbelly is complicated, whether you have existing insulation or not. Removal of your existing coroplast and insulation should be a fairly easy task, but disconnecting the various pipes and tubes beneath your RV might be more complicated. It is necessary to do, however, just in case damage occurs during the installation of your new insulation.

Don’t be shy about labeling your various lines and wires with tape, and take photos of what your underbelly looks like before you begin removing the more complicated parts. This may seem time-consuming, but it will make reinstalling everything a breeze. Plus, the last thing you need is to install something incorrectly!

3. Installation!

The moment you’ve been waiting for (or perhaps dreading): installing your new insulation! Hopefully, you’ve cut out your rigid foam pieces, or trimmed up your rolled fiberglass insulation by now. Begin puzzling them together beneath your rig, using screws or liquid adhesive.

If you are using spray foam, it should be fairly self-explanatory to install. No matter what insulation material you plan on using, always begin at one end of the RV and move to the other to ensure a tight finish.

4. Put It All Back Together

Success! Your insulation looks amazing, all of your pipes and tanks are covered and warm. Now it’s time to put everything back to operating conditions. Hopefully, you labeled your bits and pieces, so installation should be no problem.

Your coroplast cover comes last, and your RV’s underbelly should be all set once this is installed! Make sure the coroplast is undamaged and completely covers all of your new beautiful insulation and your camper should be insulated and good to go!

Products To Help With Insulating Your RV’s Underbelly

Unsure what products to turn to when it comes to replacing your RV’s underbelly insulation? Here are some good options to assist with your DIY investment, so that you don’t have to stress!

Best Spray Foam Insulation: Touch N Seal Black UV-Resistant Polyurethane Gun Foam Spray Sealant Kit

[amazon box=”B081S514CS”]

While needs tend to vary depending on the length of different RVs, this handy kit from Touch N Seal includes 10 24 oz cans of UV-resistant spray foam as well as a couple of cans of spray foam remover. This is handy for me as I’m not the steadiest with my hands and may accidentally get the product somewhere I’m not supposed to! This foam insulation is recommended for many projects, RV underbellies among them.

While it may be a bit more expensive than other types of insulation, this spray foam is water and fire-resistant, so I don’t have to think about it once it’s installed. It is also a wonderful pest deterrent, creating a seal against rodents and spiders. There are many tutorials for this product, and it should be fairly self-explanatory to use these cans!

This product reaches a full cure in one hour should the temperatures be mild, and it is a discreet black color that resists UV fading – ideal for when I’m camping in the height of summer . While it may require a separate purchase of a professional spray gun, this product may be worth it for many folks. You can see the latest price and read more reviews on Amazon by clicking here .

Best Rolled Foam Insulation: SmartSHIELD -5mm 48″x50ft Reflective Foam Core Insulation

[amazon box=”B07ST85RGR”]

Used in a variety of applications, this SmartSHIELD insulation bundle may be the answer to all of our RV underbelly insulation prayers! Using advanced technology, this insulation is vapor and sound resistant along with reflective, all in a 5 mm thick roll! I like that this set also comes with various rolls in different widths, as it means less product will go to waste as I don’t have to cut as much – ideal in my eyes as RVing costs enough already!

This handy roll of insulation has a clean white finish as well as being made of fire-resistant materials. It’s simple to install and maintains very high ratings for both heat resistance (such as radiant pavement beneath the rig) and temperature retention (such as controlling the climate inside of the RV).

While it may be a pricier insulation option compared to fiberglass rolls or rigid boards, it may be a great choice due to the fairly easy installation and moisture-resistant material. You can check out more reviews from RV owners and see today’s price on Amazon by clicking here .

Best Underbelly Cover Replacement Material: VIBE INK Bundle 24″ x 36″ Corrugated Plastic

[amazon box=”B083WNQGF7″]

Are you surprised to learn that coroplast is essentially plastic yard sign material? Surprise no more, and consider this large bundle of coroplast signs from VIBE INK. Coming in a 24 pack, these 36”x24” signs will no doubt cover your rig’s underbelly, and hopefully leave you with some leftover should you ever need to patch it! While this doesn’t seem like the sturdiest material, it will protect your RV’s underbelly and it is water and wind resistant.

Easy installation is something I look at when bringing new products into my RV, so I like that these sheets are easy to install, though make sure to seal up any cracks or spaces between your coroplast. Any empty space or weakness in the installation will no doubt be found by pests! You can click here to see the latest price on Amazon .

Best Underbelly Repair Tape: Mobile Home RV Flex Mend Belly Bottom Repair Kit

[amazon box=”B017UNKBBC”]

Looking for help repairing your RV’s existing coroplast underbelly? Check out this handy kit from Flex Mend, a bundle including a non-adhesive flexible roll and an adhesive tape-like roll of their signature product.

While this is not a solution if you’re like me and have a couple of holes in your metal frame, it’s a potential option if you just need some coroplast repair on an existing insulated underbelly. It’s just like duct tape: unroll, peel, and stick! Anyone can use this product, though if you use the non-adhesive version you’ll need to purchase an additional adhesive for it. You can see the latest price on Amazon by clicking here .

Best Tape Measure: General Tools LTM1 2-in-1 Laser Tape Measure

[amazon box=”B06Y2L42M8″]

So you’re ready to replace or finally install a protective underbelly on your rig. Chances are, your average tape measure isn’t going to cut it, especially if you own a large enough rig ! This tape measure from General Tools features a standard 16-foot metal tape measure as well as a digital laser measurement system.

A laser tape measure? How cool is that!? You’ll be the envy of the neighborhood, as well as a happy camper taking measurements from beneath your cramped rig. The laser side of this tape measure can range up to 50 feet so it’s possible to measure from one end of a rig to the other no matter how large!

Easy to operate by one person, and featuring a large LED display, you’ll feel like the ultimate DIY expert! This should help save you some time when it comes to measuring, and we all know what they say: measure twice, cut once! Check out today’s price on Amazon by clicking here .

Can Exterior Skirting Help RV Insulation?

I’ve talked about the pros and cons of using RV underbelly insulation, but in sub-zero temperatures, it may be worth taking even more insulation measures. If you plan on living in your rig throughout winter but only plan on moving every week or so, it may be wise to invest in some exterior skirting to aid the insulation of your RV.

Exterior skirting can be made from plywood, siding, or metal that gets used around the RV base once you’re in position on a parking pad or similar. Although the skirting will have to get moved and packed away each time you move your rig, if you only plan on moving once in a while and want to keep protected from the snow and ice, skirting is something to give some thought to as it helps insulate the RV floor.

Understanding the value and perks of RV underbelly insulation is important, especially if your rig doesn’t have any installed yet. Whether you go to an RV dealer or do the work yourself, having an insulated underbelly is a wonderful addition to any rig. Your feet will thank you should you take the camper out this winter!

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Travel Trailer & RV Insulation Guide: R-Values Explained

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Thanks for your support! If you make a purchase using our links in this article, we may make a commission. And, as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. See the full disclosure here .

When you go camping for the weekend, isn’t it a great feeling to plug into shore power and not have to worry about an electric bill? At one point or another, part-timers come to this realization and quietly smile to themselves. During the camping season, they crank up their RV air conditioners without considering RV insulation or R-value.

For full-timers, it’s a different experience. A lot of these RVers are required to pay for electric service monthly. Unless you have a solar system that can feed your A/C’s appetite, over half of your electric bill is consumed just by climate control.

Understanding how RV insulation works is the key to reducing your climate-control costs. To do that, we’ll explain how insulation works and what R-value means. With this key knowledge, you’ll become a master RVer who can beat the summer heat and live like royalty in the coldest of winters.

What Does R-Value for RV Insulation Mean?

If you remember Peter Sellers as Inspector Clouseau, you’ll remember the Pink Panther Owens Corning commercials of the 1980s and 1990s. Owens Corning recommended that you have at least a 12-inch layer of their R-25 insulation to protect your home properly. Unless you owned a set of Encyclopedia Brittanica, you had to assume it was a good rating. 

RVs of that time period mainly used fiberglass batt insulation but were nowhere near R-25. If you had R-7 insulation in your RV, you were lucky. Only experts in insulation who could build their own coach from the ground up had a chance of extending their RV season beyond Halloween.

An insulating material’s resistance to conductive heat flow is measured or rated in terms of its thermal resistance or R-value — the higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness. The R-value depends on the type of insulation, its thickness, and its density. United States Department of Energy (DOE) definition of R-value

In our physical world, heat always moves towards cold. It does this until the temperature is balanced. The key to R-value is minimizing the thermal conductivity of insulating materials.

To translate all of this into “RV Speak,” R-value is a measurement used for insulation. The higher the number, the better your coach retains/resists heat. The R-value of air is R-1, while a thick layer of densely packed fiberglass batt can have an R-value of R-25.

We would love to have R-25 values on our RVs, but the technology isn’t there yet. Most RV manufacturers use dense polyfoam block foam insulation that ranges between R-5 to R-7 in their RV sidewalls. All-season/four-season travel trailers increase their insulation depending on the RV maker.

Insulation aims to prevent or minimize heat transfer to the colder temperature. In the summer, think of the outside air as that invading medieval army trying to break into your castle with a battering ram at your castle gates. The R-value would be the strength of your gate (insulation), keeping the invaders out. 

Resistance Isn’t Futile: How Heat Transfers Through RV Insulation

The DOE’s definition of R-Value talks about resistance to the conductivity of heat flow. There are actually three different ways insulation works, two of which create R-Value.

• Conduction: A relevant definition of conduction is the process where heat transmits through a solid material when there’s a temperature difference. Most metals, graphite, and some plastics are conductive. Using fiberglass batt or foam insulation stops heat transfer from the inner to the exterior walls of your RV. 
• Convection: Heat circulates air as it transfers to colder temperatures. According to master home builder Bob Vila , you want to contain a layer of air near a heat source, allowing the heat to transfer throughout the space. Using Bob’s definition, your insulation’s R-value keeps the convection effect inside your RV, dissipating the heat (or air conditioning) within the coach instead of leaching outside.
• Radiation: Radiant heat (like the sun) travels in a straight line and warms anything solid in its path that absorbs energy. Using reflective air bubble sheeting on your windows and doors doesn’t increase your R-value directly. It does reflect ultraviolet radiation and other radiant heat sources from transferring inside.

Other Ways to Enhance the R-Value of Your RV

Insulation with a high R-value can effectively slow conduction and convection. If you have reflective sheeting on your windows, you’re further protecting the interior of your RV from heat transfer. Yet heat can be sneakier than a cockroach.

Sealing the Cracks

You want to ensure your heat vents are closed and secured during the summer. Conversely, your air conditioner ducts should be sealed during the winter. Slideout edges should be inspected and covered with door draft stoppers or other draft-preventing materials.

Even if your ducting is insulated, you’re wasting climate-control energy keeping these unneeded ducts temperature controlled. Sealing these vents will not only increase your R-value, but the interior of your RV will also reach your desired temperature faster and more efficiently.

Moisture Control

Moisture in the air doesn’t affect your R-value, but it does affect your energy costs. Humid air takes more energy to cool than dry air. Water isn’t a conductor of heat, so it takes longer to cool or heat.

This is only part of the issue with humid air. If your RV’s interior is exposed to humid air for long periods of time, this is perfect conditions for mold and mildew to start growing. The wooden infrastructure of your furniture and various other components that aren’t sealed can start to crack or warp.

Your rooftop air conditioner doesn’t have a dehumidifier feature in it, so you may want to invest in a dehumidifier. You’ll see your energy costs drop and elongate the life of your RV. This’ll also save you from having to replace any insulation prone to water-related damage.

3. Common Types of RV Insulation

Now that you have a full tool belt of knowledge concerning what R-value means and how it relates to your RV, we’ll explore the common types of insulation within the RV world. For those do-it-yourselfers (DIY) who are rebuilding their Antique (pre-1944), Vintage (1945- 1970), Classic (1971- 1989), or Neo-Classic (1990-2007) Era coach, this section can help you with your project.

1. RV Foam Block Insulation

Rigid foam is the most popular type of insulation used today. RV manufacturers cut the polyfoam into precisely measured pieces and put them in a heated press with the exterior walls. This process bonds the two pieces to create an airtight seal.

They are then laminated together for further protection against contaminants. These compound pieces are then attached to the aluminum frame with just enough room for wiring, plumbing, and ducting. Before the interior walls are installed, support framing is placed for windows and furniture.

The R-value of rigid foam is anywhere between 3.5 to 6. All-weather/four-season coaches that are built for beyond freezing temperatures have R-values that go up to R-10 in some cases. Insulated bay doors and RV door insulation may have different R-values than the sidewalls.

There are 2 types of rigid foam:

I. Extruded Polystyrene (XPS)

This type is easily recognized by its pink, blue, or green color. RV manufacturers use XPS due to its perfect balance of benefits. It’s thin enough to use in sidewalls, has a medium R-value, is strong, and is cost-effective. XPS is also recyclable.

II. Expanded Polystyrene (EPS)

You’ll recognize this material from the foam ice chests, coffee cups, and other foam products. RV makers place this type of insulation in long bars in the roof of motorhomes and some towables. It has the highest R-value of the three versions, doesn’t degrade, and is most often used in home and building construction.

If you plan on replacing your rigid foam, do your research first. Removing it can be difficult since it’s laminated, heat bonded, and glued to the exterior wall. There’s not a lot of room between your insulation and your interior walls, but you may want to consider adding spray foam insulation which will add to what you already have.

2. Spray Foam RV Insulation

Spray foam is not commonly used as factory-installed insulation. Many DIYers like to use it to add an extra layer of insulation to what they already have. It has the lowest levels of R-value (around R-3.5) but is the easiest to install.

There are a few different types, but expanding polystyrene is the safest to use. If you decide to use spray foam, ensure all of your windows are open and use fans to vent the fumes. You’ll also want to use PPE (personal protection equipment) and thoroughly protect your RV’s interior.

Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso, ISO) comes in a spray can. It sprays out as a liquid and hardens dry. The closed cell version has a higher R-value than the open cell type.

3. Fiberglass Batt RV Insulation

You’ll find fiberglass batt insulation in RVs from older eras to today’s conventionally built wood-framed travel trailers . The problem with RV fiberglass batt insulation is its “magnetism” for moisture, which starts to break down within a year. Fiberglass batt is great for solid-structure buildings, not RVs.

The trade-off is its high R-value. When vintage and early classic RVs came off the factory floors, they had R-values between 13-19. Today’s wood-framed RVs are built much better, but unless they’re kept near hospital-level environments, the insulation degrades, becoming nesting grounds for mold and mildew.

Also, pests looking for warm places to nest will give Fiberglass Batt 5 stars for the luxury accommodations. Some RV brands still use fiberglass batt in wood-framed RVs with corrugated aluminum. To prevent Mr. and Mrs. Rat or Mouse from moving in, ensure you’re keeping up on your RV preventive maintenance, focusing on seals and open spaces.

Do Dryer Sheets Keep Mice Away From RVs and Campers? We wrote an article all about it so please check it out!

RV’s of these time periods have walls that look like houses. You could cut rigid foam into strips that fit within the studs and/or use spray foam. Either one will work well as a replacement.

Before you retrofit your new insulation, definitely check for asbestos in earlier era RVs. Some of these RVs do have this carcinogen in them. The safest way to remove it is to hire experts that have the proper equipment to remove it.  

RV Exterior Sidewall Insulation

Did you know that your exterior RV sidewalls have R-values of their own? Materials like Azdel are fiberglass composites that are designed with thermal and sound insulation properties. With an R-value three times better than wood, Azdel has a rating of roughly 4.5.

With the bonding process, the R-value of the wall and the insulation work in concert to create the highest R-value travel trailers. Many major RV manufacturers and their subsidiaries use Azdel in their coaches. Some of them include: 

• Forest River
• Gulf Stream
• Many others

RV Underbelly Insulation

RV floor insulation wasn’t thought of much in previous years. Underneath the subfloor was either metal or wood. When the concept of four-season camping entered into the RV world, using RV insulation in the underbelly was an optional feature.

As it became popular, sealing travel trailer underbellies became a standard feature. RV manufacturers are now using corrugated plastic sheeting to protect and insulate the underbody of RVs. Like the sidewalls, they place a rigid foam layer to work together with this material that has its own R-value.

The black sheeting has an average R-value of R-6. Many people forget how valuable it can be to prevent the summer heat from coming through the floor. It also contains your furnace’s efforts in the coldest of winters.

RV Roof Insulation

Your Roof has a top layer usually made of either a rubber composite or a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) membrane. Underneath that is a thick layer of insulation. Your RV’s roof does most of the “heavy lifting” when it comes to insulating your RV since heat rises, and it’s the one area that’s most exposed to the sun.

Your roof’s insulation is usually between R-10 to R-20. Since it’s thicker than the walls, more insulation is possible. Ensure your A/C evaporators are working properly so the water isn’t overflowing onto your roof insulation.

As a preventive maintenance tip, adding a sealant layer will definitely help when you’re up there checking for cracking. The sealant is a white paint-like material that can be rolled on. It’ll help your roof in the battle against the sun’s radiant heat.

What Is the Best Type of RV Insulation?

In most cases, rigid foam board insulation is the best type of RV insulation that balances benefit and cost. It has a high R-value, holds up to travel, time, and moisture rigors, and isn’t very difficult to install.

Fiberglass batt insulation comes standard in many older RVs, but it’s not the best choice. This type of insulation tends to hold on to moisture and breaks down quickly, causing it to be a breeding ground for mold and mildew.

Spray foam insulation is easy to install but offers a high R-value per square inch, but can become expensive and time-consuming in the installation process. This insulation would be best for fair-weather RVers.

What’s the Best R-Value Measurement?

The best way to measure R-value for your RV insulation isn’t the collective whole. Thanks to one of our readers with an engineering background, you want to learn your RV’s R-value by determining the thickness (in inches) per square foot.

When you compare the various RV insulation types at the square-inch level, you’ll find some fascinating results:

Remember, R-value is based on thickness, not length. If a sheet of XPS rigid foam is exactly 1 inch thick, it should have an R-5 value per square foot anywhere you measure it. Theoretically, if another sheet has thin spots, that specific spot will have a lower R-value than the other insulation around it.

If you were to double up the layers of RV insulation, that doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll get twice the R-value. Depending on what you’re using, that value could go beyond that doubled value or not do much at all.

For example, if you were to spray another layer of spray foam on an already-dried layer, the R-value more than doubles.

On the other hand, doubling up an R-5 fiberglass batt insulation doesn’t mean it has the same R-value as a single layer of R-10 fiberglass batt.

To make the best use of RV insulation to increase your R-value, you’ll need to research the insulation material you’re using. Learn how it works and how to use it for optimal insulating values.

Other RV Insulation Ideas

Your RV may have great insulation, but your climate-control devices still work hard to keep the interior space comfortable. Your coach has windows, slideouts, and other components that your insulation doesn’t protect. Our RV window insulation tips feature can help you complete the rest of the equation.

There are other techniques you can use to prevent heat transfer. We already mentioned using door draft stoppers around your slideouts. If you have your choice, try and pick a campsite that’s more shaded. A window awning can be a great way to dampen the sun’s rays.

If you don’t have a rear window, try to park your RV so the front faces north. The southern-facing side of your RV will receive the most direct sunlight. Windows with the most northern exposure get the least amount of sun exposure in the United States.

RELATED READING

To learn more about insulating an RV or travel trailer, check out some of our other blog articles below! 1. What Are RV Interior Walls Made Of? 2. Can You Use a Camper in the Winter? 3. Best Sealant for RV Windows – Leakproof Your RV! 4. RV Window Tinting – Increase Privacy and Reduce Heat 5. Are Azdel Panels Worth it for Your RV or Trailer?

5 thoughts on “Travel Trailer & RV Insulation Guide: R-Values Explained”

You should check out Grand Design Camp Trailer Imagine. the put in a all season package and other unique R values that are quite impressive.

I am curious if anyone has used foam board insulation on the outside under the floor of a slide. We plan on traveling in the winter next year to ski and having the slides out would be nice but don’t want to have a tremendous amount of heat loss over something easy to install with velcro. Thoughts? We do plan on doing the AirSkirts for the underside of the RV.

Good guide overall, not many RV centered articles that deep dive into this topic! I will say that there are a few things that I could see being confused about when it comes to R-Value. When you see R-values of 15 or 25, really high ones, for an INDIVIDUAL insulation, that typically means that’s the overall R-value for THAT THICKNESS (typically more than an inch) or when it is put between wood studs like you find in traditional home building.

What you want to look at is the R-value PER INCH of insulation.

When comparing spray foam and rigid foam board, spray foam can be significantly more insulative (depending on the type). Closed-cell spray foam has an R-value/inch of 7 while XPS rigid foam board has an R-value/inch of only 5. Open-cell spray foam on the other hand has an R-value/inch of around 4 while EPS rigid foam board has a R-value/inch of around 3.6! Things like fiberglass batting, the fluffy cotton candy stuff, only has an R-value/inch of up to 3.8. Once you account for settling, water/mold resistance, and air sealing; I would argue that closed-cell spray foam outperforms most other insulations, for a price of course!

Just some thoughts from an engineer who was initially confused on how fiberglass insulation could claim such high R-Values on the packaging. 🙂

I have a 22 ft camper trailer and I want to use it in the winter, whats the way and inexpensive to do this all my own or by you …. Thanks John

Just came across your blog. I am building a slide in truck camper for a Toyota Tacoma using an aluminum exoskeleton and closed cell foam insulation covered in fiberglass for winter camping to go skiing. My thought is 2” thick floor & walls for R-13 and 4” thick ceiling for R-26. Do you think this would be adequate?

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How to Insulate An RV Underbelly To Keep Cold Out & Heat In

• Last Updated: April 8, 2024
• 13 minutes read

To insulate your RV underbelly your best options are spray foam insulation or rigid foam board. You must use materials appropriate for different temperatures and confirm the sealing is secure enough to avoid drafts.

From my experience, an improperly insulated RV underbelly can make your comfortable mobile home into a sauna in summer, or an icebox in winter. Nobody seeks adventure when enduring extremely high or low temperatures! That’s why understanding the intricacies of underbody insulation is key for a comfortable and easy ride.

Understanding An RV Underbelly

The underbelly of your RV is essentially the bottom side or undercarriage of your RV. It is frequently overlooked, yet very important to the health of your mobile home. It’s essential for shielding your RV’s plumbing and electrical from the damaging effects of traveling.

An array of parts, including electrical wire, propane lines, freshwater/water systems, and electrical wiring are housed beneath your RV, making it a completely self-sufficient and operational unit. 

Understanding this complex web will help you appreciate how important it is to insulate it for the best possible comfort on your travels. The underbelly plays a crucial role in preserving a pleasant interior temperature, in addition to serving as protection. An underbelly that is well-insulated serves as a buffer against harsh weather, trapping cold air during sweltering summer months and heat inside during your winter adventures.

Importance of Insulating the RV Underbelly

• Temperature Regulation: Having adequate insulation beneath the RV underbelly helps maintain a suitable interior temperature, keeping you comfortable in both summer and winter.
• Energy Efficiency: Insulation acts as a barrier against the weather, reducing the workload on the heating and cooling system of your RV. This results in better energy efficiency and is potentially cost-effective.
• Component Protection: Insulating the underbelly shields vital components like plumbing, wiring, and tanks from extreme weather damages like freezing pipes in the winter and potential damage from overheating in the summer.
• Preventing Condensation: Insulating plays a key role in avoiding condensation, which in turn keeps moisture from building up and causing corrosion of metal parts on the underbelly as well as the growth of mold and mildew.
• Extended Lifespan: Insulation helps your RV’s undercarriage components last longer by acting as a protective barrier and preventing wear and tear from exposure to harsh external conditions.
• Enhanced Comfort: Regardless of the outside weather, a well-insulated underbelly makes for a more comfortable pleasant living space inside the RV.
• Reduced Noise: Insulation reduces outside noise, making the RV quieter and more peaceful inside and improving your trip experience overall.

Adding insulation to the underbelly of your RV is a wise investment that will pay off in terms of enhanced comfort, overall protection, and longevity of your mobile home.

Preparing The RV Underbelly For Insulation

Here I will take you through the step-by-step guide on how to prepare the RV underbelly for insulation:

Step 1. Jack Up Your RV: 

You will need 2 – 4 jack stands for your RV. Place the jack under one of the hard points, it might help to crank the hitch down to give you more space. Then, lift one side of the RV and repeat the same for the other sides.

Step 2. Thorough Cleaning:

Confirm that your RV, especially the underbelly is clean before beginning the insulating process. Clear away any residue, dirt, or debris that came up throughout your trip. The insulating materials have a better base when the surface is clean.

Step 3. Inspect For Damage:

Pay close attention to the underbelly for any indications of wear, leaks, or damage. It’s imperative to take care of these concerns before adding insulation to stop more troubles and prolong the life of the parts in your RV.

Step 4. Locate Vulnerable Areas:

Point out locations, where exposed wiring, tanks, and pipes, are present. To protect critical components from severe temperatures, special care must be taken while insulating these vulnerable areas.

Step 5. Choose Suitable Insulation Material:

Confirm the insulation you choose is appropriate for both your RV and the climate in which you will be traveling. Foam board, spray foam, and reflective foil are typical choices. Consider elements like R-value, weight, and ease of installation.

Step 6. Measure And Plan:

To calculate how much insulation is required, take precise measurements of the underbelly area. When planning the installation procedure, consider any access points that would need to be removed, including panels or openings.

Step 7. Gather Necessary Tools:

Assemble the instruments needed for the task, such as a utility knife, tape measure, adhesive or fastener, and the proper safety equipment. Preparing things ahead of time helps to expedite the insulating process.

Step 8. Seal Gaps And Cracks:

Seal any cracks or gaps in the underbelly before adding insulation using a high-quality sealant like silicone caulk or expanding foam. Avoiding air leaks that can reduce the insulation’s effectiveness, contributes to the creation of an airtight and efficient insulating barrier.

Step 9. Install Insulation Methodically:

Start the insulation by carefully adhering to the arrangement that has been prepared. Confirm it fits correctly and covers the entire region, being especially careful around components’ edges, corners, and surrounding areas. When necessary, use fasteners or adhesive.

Step 10. Consider Vapour Barriers:

Consider installing a vapor barrier to avoid moisture build-up in humid climates. This extra layer improves the insulation’s overall efficiency and aids in preventing condensation.

Step 11. Safely Reattach Panels:

After the insulation is installed, firmly reattach any access panels or openings you must remove. To preserve the integrity of the underbelly insulation, confirm the seal is tight and remove the jacks.

Different Types Of Insulation Materials

Now, it might seem confusing to pick the right insulating material for your requirements with the number of options out there. To make it easier, in the following table, I list down the different materials and their properties for you to choose the correct one to match your needs.

How To Choose The Right Insulation Material?

You can select the best RV underbelly insulation material to fit your travel preferences and guarantee the highest level of comfort on your trip by considering a few variables along with your unique requirements.

Removing Existing Insulation If Exists

Although removing the old insulation from your RV’s underbelly may seem like a daunting task, it is manageable with little expertise. First, put on a mask and gloves to protect yourself. Next, determine the kind of insulation that you have. If it’s in the form of rolls or batts, carefully cut and remove parts with a utility knife. 

A pry bar might be useful for foam board insulation. Be especially careful while handling plumbing and electrical areas. To get rid of debris, vacuum or sweep the space for which you can use a wire brush or scraper to help loose sticky insulation. Recall that taking your time will confirm thorough removal. With a little elbow grease, you can create the foundation for an overhaul of the underbelly of your RV.

How to Put The Insulation Material

After the underbelly of your RV has been prepared, let’s get down to the specifics of applying the insulating material like a pro:

 Step 1. Prepare Your Equipment: Before starting the insulation project, confirm you have your utility knife, measuring tape, choose insulating material, and any required adhesive or fasteners on hand. 

Step 2. Start From The Bottom: Ascend from the lowest position on the underbelly and proceed upwards. 

Step 3. Cut To Perfection: To perfectly fit the calculated spaces, cut the insulation material with your reliable utility knife. Here, accuracy is essential, you want every component to fit perfectly into its assigned place.

Step 4. Cover The Gaps: Use precisely cut pieces to close in any spaces or gaps surrounding components.

Step 5. Use Adhesive: Remove the backing paper from any adhesive-backed insulation before adhering to the new layer. To guarantee a strong connection, press down the adhesive firmly.

Step 6. Fasteners: For materials that need fasteners confirm they are strategically fastened.

Step 7. Smooth Out: Smooth out the insulation material to eliminate any wrinkles or uneven surfaces.

Pro Tip: If you’re using spray foam, apply it evenly and sparingly. It expands, so a little goes a long way, it is like a foam hug – not too tight, just right.

How To Test Adequate Insulation?

Maintaining adequate insulation is essential for a comfortable and functional RV. Hence to check the efficiency of your newly insulated RV underbelly, here are 5 efficient methods:

• Thermal Imaging: 

To perform a thermal inspection, either get a thermal imaging camera or hire a professional to conduct a thermal inspection. This is a high-tech approach that allows you to visually identify temperature variations marking the areas that lack insulation.

• Temperature DIfferential Test:

You can conduct a temperature differential test by measuring the temperature inside and outside your RV. A significant difference indicates effective insulation.

• Hand Test For Drafts:

On a breezy day, run your hands along windows, doors, and other potential draft points. If you feel the cold air escaping in, it indicates inadequate insulation.

• Energy Consumption:

Track your RV’s energy consumption. If your heating or cooling system is working overtime, it might be a sign that your insulation isn’t pulling its weight. Good insulation will maintain a comfortable interior without depending much on the heating or cooling system.

• Humidity And Condensation Checks:

Monitor humidity levels inside your RV and Keep an eye out for condensation. Insulation gaps or insufficient ventilation may result in excessive moisture.

By combining these methods, you’ll get a comprehensive understanding of your RV’s insulation performance.

Maintenance Tips:

Maintaining your RV’s insulation will not only increase its longevity but also keep the components of your underbelly protected from weather mishaps. Here are some tips for confirming that your insulation stands strong and lasts long.

• Regular Inspection: Schedule routine inspections of the underbelly to look for any signs of wear, leaks, cracks, damage, or shift in insulation materials. Early detection will save you from later expenses.
• Inspect Access Pannels:  If your RV has an access panel, check them regularly. Confirm they are in their designated places and the seals are intact. Access panels provide entry points for maintenance, so keeping them in check is important.
• Protect Against Rodents: Keep your RV’s underbelly insulation safe against rodents as they can cause serious damage by nesting or chewing. Use rodents repellent or rodent-resistant material to keep away the critters.
• Keep Drainage Clear:  Confirm proper drainage around the underbelly by clearing out any debris or blockages to avoid impeded water flow. Good drainage prevents water buildup, reducing the risk of moisture-related issues.
• Monitor Humidity Levels:  Keep an eye on the humidity levels inside your RV as high humidity can compromise the effectiveness of the insulation. If needed use a dehumidifier to maintain a dry and comfortable environment.
• Insulate Exposed Pipes: Insulate exposed pipes to prevent condensation and potential damage. Pipe insulation helps maintain temperature consistently and protects against moisture.
• Winterization: If you will be storing your RV during winter, take extra precautions. Winterize the RV and its underbelly by adding extra insulation layers or using specialized products designed for extreme cold temperatures.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do i choose the right thickness of insulation for my rv’s underbelly.

Consider factors like climate, intended use, and personal preferences while choosing the thickness of the material to insulate the RV’s underbelly. In colder regions, choose thicker insulation ( around 1.5 to 2 inches ) to provide better thermal resistance. 

For moderate climates, a thinner insulation layer may suffice. Consider the R-value which indicates thermal resistance, the higher the R-value signifies better insulation.

Strike a balance between the effective insulation and your RV’s weight constraints.

Can I DIY The Insulation Installation Or Should I Hire A Professional?

DIY insulation for your RV’s underbelly is absolutely doable. With careful planning and the right tools, you can effectively install various insulation materials. However, if you are uncertain about the process, have a complex RV structure, or prefer a professional touch, hiring an expert is a wise choice. A professional can confirm a precise installation, and address specific challenges.

Ultimately, the decision depends on your confidence in DIY projects and the complexity of your RV underbelly. The selected Insulation material can sometimes be a challenge too.

How Do I Deal With Moisture And Condensation While Insulating The RV Underbelly?

To protect your underbelly insulation against moisture and condensation, employ an all-around approach. Start by sealing the gaps and cracks to prevent external moisture infiltration. Incorporate a vapor barrier in humid climates to prevent condensation within the insulation.

Confirm proper ventilation to facilitate moisture escape and maintain a dry environment. You can also use moisture-resistant insulation materials, such as closed-cell foam or spray foam, to deter water absorption. 

Additionally, insulate exposed pipes to prevent condensation. By combining these strategies, you’ll protect your RV from any moisture-related challenges while preserving the effectiveness of your insulation.

Are There Any Precautions Or Safety Measures To Consider During Installation?

When installing RV underbelly insulation, prioritize safety by wearing protective gear, including gloves and a mask. Use a respirator in well-ventilated areas, especially when working with spray foam. Be cautious around sharp tools, and follow manufacturer guidelines for handling insulation materials.

Work with a partner, particularly in confined spaces to confirm help is available if needed. Turn off power sources and disconnect electrical connections before starting the installation. Remember, precaution is better than cure.

What Are The Estimated Costs For Insulating Your RV’s Underbelly?

The cost of insulating an RV underbelly varies based on factors like insulation material, RV size, and whether you choose to get professional help. If you choose to take the project in your hand, it may range from $200 to $800 for materials like foam boards or spray foam.

However, professional installation can significantly increase the costs, ranging from $500 to $2000 or more depending on the complexity of the job.

About Author / Aaron Richardson

Aaron Richardson is an expert RVer and the co-founder of RVing Know How. Aaron, along with his wife Evelyn, has been living and traveling in their Keystone Fuzion RV since 2017. Their adventures span across the country and beyond, including memorable RVing experiences in Mexico. Aaron's passion for the outdoors and RVing shines through in his writings, where he shares a blend of travel stories, practical tips, and insights to enhance the RV lifestyle.

What Size Truck Do I Need To Pull A Travel Trailer? (Ultimate Towing Guide)

Can i dump rv waste into a septic tank.

Susan Shaver

Unbelievable that some people think 32 degrees. or even 0 degrees Fahrenheit is cold!!! When I search for winter ready Class B or Camper Vans, I expect the responses to make sense. These do not!! Waste of time! Please tell me where to go to find actual information for sub zero insulated and weather ready Camper Vans!

Meaghan R Chalmers

I want to know how to make my VanCamper ready for winter camping! Not how to get it ready for winter storage. Where do I find the information I need?

Jonathan Nieuwenhuis

If i sprayfoam under my minibus , is there a possible danger for the sprayfoam to get on fire because if the heat of the motor and exhaust Line?

Refurbishing an 04 model travel trailer Yhis article was very helpful. Answered all of my questions!

Thanks! Sal

Can I just spray the foam insulation in the underbelly speriocticly throughout the underbelly by just poking a hole in the underbelly cover?

2″ foil faced poly-iso foam board carefully cut around obstacles, seams sealed with great stuff expanding foam or similar. screws and large 2″ washers to fasten. the goal is to add r-value and eliminate wind. 4×8 sheet=~$40

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855-625-9191

Ultimate Guide to RV Insulation: Tips for Comfortable Travel

Insulate Your RV for Optimal Comfort: A Step-by-Step Guide

Traveling in an RV brings the joy of exploration, but it's crucial to maintain a comfortable interior, especially in extreme weather. This guide provides easy steps to insulate your RV, whether you're in Las Vegas, Henderson, Utah, or Saint George.

Identify Key Insulation Areas:

Check windows, doors, vents, walls, ceilings, and floors.

Select the Right Insulation Material:

Options include Fiberglass, Reflective Foil, Spray Foam, and Rigid Foam.

Prepare Your RV Interior:

Clear out furniture and panels for easy access.

Seal Gaps and Cracks:

Use caulking or foam for a draft-free environment.

Window Insulation Tricks:

Apply thermal curtains and reflective films to retain heat.

Door Draft Solutions:

Weather-stripping and draft stoppers are your best friends.

Wall Insulation Techniques:

Fit fiberglass batts snugly and add reflective foil for extra protection.

Ceiling Insulation Methods:

Choose between rigid foam and spray foam for top efficiency.

Floor Insulation Tips:

Rigid foam is ideal, especially for exposed underbellies.

Install RV Skirting:

A must-have for preventing underbelly cold air circulation.

Reflective Heat Barriers:

Essential for hot weather, install these on the roof and walls.

Utilize Thermal Blankets:

Great for cabinets and storage areas.

Insulate Vents and Fans:

Minimize heat loss with insulated covers.

Consider Insulated Flooring:

For extra warmth, add insulated flooring or rugs.

Regular Maintenance and Adjustments:

Keep an eye on wear and tear. Tailor your insulation approach to your RV's model and construction. Always consult your manual or professionals for the best methods.

RV Repair Maxx is your go-to for RV, Boat, & ATV repairs in Las Vegas, Henderson, Utah, and Saint George. Contact us at 855-625-9191 for top-quality mobile maintenance and repairs.

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Written by Johnathan R. Smith • May 3, 2019 • 12:58 am • Guides

How To Insulate a Travel Trailer (Stay Warm In The Winter)

Many people find that just because it’s cold outside doesn’t mean they lose their itch to travel and explore the outdoors. With a brutal winter sweeping across the United States, you may be curious about how to insulate a travel trailer.

Fortunately, there are numerous methods available to help keep a camper warm in the winter. Below, you’ll find a few of our team’s favorite techniques.

Things to Note About Insulting a Trailer

Before we share how to insulate a travel trailer , there are a few things that we should note. First and foremost, you should practice caution when camping in the winter, especially as temperatures drop below freezing. Although the methods you’ll find below are effective ways to keep your camper warm, they are not full-proof.

A travel trailer’s design is the primary reason why this is the case. Some campers may not have more than a single layer of insulation that is prone to air leaks. If the temperature is too cold outside, you’ll be fighting an uphill battle. The tips that we provide are perhaps best suited for fall camping when the temperatures can dip once the sun goes down.

If you do plan on camping during the winter, be sure to check your local weather reports to make sure that there are not any temperature or freeze warnings in place. Also, make sure that you carry adequate supplies with you. Not only does this include food and water but gasoline and batteries as well.

If you run out of fuel, you could quickly find yourself in a life-or-death situation.

Also, keep in mind that insulation is a year-round effort. The tips you find listed below should not only benefit you in the fall or winter but in the summer as well. In these cases, you may be looking to keep colder air inside of your camper and prevent hot air from entering.

Although we’ll primarily focus on ways to keep a camper warm, many of the tricks could be useful during the summer as well.

Secondly, you may find something called an R-Value pop up when looking into the insulation that campers offer. An R-Value is the official thermal resistance rating. The higher the R-Value on your trailer, the more efficient it will be at maintaining an even temperature. Numerous external factors could determine R-Value efficiency, including the climate in which you’ll be camping.

This brings us to our third and final point, which is that you should look into the insulation options offered by today’s modern travel trailers. Manufacturers now offer features such as insulated underbellies and full heating units.

If you are struggling to keep your current camper protected, check to see if there are manufacturer’s upgrades available, which could streamline the process significantly.

Method One: Replace or Reseal the Windows in Your Trailer

If your manufacturer does not offer any heating or air conditioning upgrades and you are struggling with insulation problems, then you may want to look at the windows on your trailer. Many older travel trailers have single-pane windows, which are remarkably cheap and inefficient when it comes to insulating the vehicle.

The first thing that you should do is check with your manufacturer to see if there is still a warranty in place. If so, explain the problems you’ve been having. While the warranty may only cover replacement single-pane windows, they may offer you a discounted upgrade for windows of better quality.

More important, however, is the fact that tampering with your windows could void the warranty if it is indeed still in place. Stricter manufacturers could void the entire warranty on your travel trailer if you chose to replace the windows, even though the warranty covers other aspects.

So, it’s best to check with your manufacturer before performing any third-party alterations.

Replacing the windows in your trailer could be expensive, but it could go a long way toward solving your insulation problems. There are two reasons why this is a costly option. For one, windows, in general, are expensive, especially if you’re looking for a quality option that will keep your camper warm.

Secondly, RV windows are often not of standard size, meaning they aren’t available in your local hardware store. As a result, you’ll need to custom-order the windows or have someone cut oversized windows instead.

If you still wish to proceed, you should start by measuring the windows that you want to replace. Then, look up the types of windows available for your trailer. Typically, there are four windows options for trailers and campers:

• Vertical sliders are tall and open on tracks
• Horizontal sliders are wide and also open on sliders
• Awning windows feature dual-pane glass
• Jalousie windows provide excellent views but subpar insulation

Once you’ve secured your new windows, you can unscrew and remove the existing window frame. Remove any putty that is leftover.

Then, use fresh sealant to fix your new window in place. We recommend that you use new screws to help fasten the window to the siding of the trailer, instead of the screws used with the previous unit.

If you’re in a bind and replacing windows isn’t an option, there are some short-term fixes that you could try using items that are easily accessible. You could first try wrapping the windows in bubble wrap. Spraying the windows with water will act as a clinging mechanism for the bubble wrap.

You could also try adding a plastic insulating film, which creates a functional airtight seal on the windows.

Method Two: Reinsulate the Walls

Another pricey endeavor that you could undergo to help insulate your trailer is reinsulating the walls. The same protocol goes for the walls as it does the windows. We recommend contacting your manufacturer to see if you’re eligible for any work covered under warranty and if altering your trailer will void your warranty.

If the warranty is not an issue, then you could find it worthwhile to replace the thin layer of fiberglass insulation that likely came with your camper.

We recommend that you contact a professional maintenance expert to perform this repair, as it will be quite tricky to do on your own, especially if you do not have much experience tinkering with your trailer. You’ll likely choose from one of three options:

• Fiberglass foam

Fiberglass foam is an excellent choice if you’re not looking to tear down and reconstruct your entire trailer. Your insulation expert will likely add additional fiberglass foam overtop the single layer that is currently in place. Fiberglass foam provides decent R-Value. There are, however, a few points of concern that you’ll want to consider.

First, fiberglass foam could be prone to mold, resulting in a damp, musty smell in your trailer. If your insulation is moldy, you’ll need to replace any affected areas. Furthermore, fiberglass foam expands when it is warm.

The expansion could potentially be one of the reasons why your current fiberglass insulation has become less effective. Again, you’ll need to replace the insulation when this occurs.

Spray foam is a quick and easy choice to reinsulate a trailer. Spray foam has an exceptional R-Value. The foam comes in a can with an extended nozzle. You will likely have to remove your windows to find crevices where you can spray the insulation.

Once you spray the insulation, it expands much like shaving cream, filling cracks that have resulted in poor insulation.

Lastly, rigid foam is custom-fit for your vehicle. That’s because it comes in blocks that you then cut to size. This foam also offers a high R-Value and should provide a considerable upgrade over your existing insulation. The foam is durable and is not prone to moisture. However, installing rigid foam is an extensive effort that requires caulk, industrial tape, and other tools.

Method Three: Reinsulate the Doors

Another area that tends to cause problems for trailer owners is the doors. Much like windows, factory-issued entries don’t always have the best weather-prevention capabilities. The first thing that you can try is to purchase weather stripping and adding it beneath the door.

Weather stripping is a heavy fabric that adheres to the bottom of the entrance to prevent outside air from entering.

If you notice a draft coming in beneath your door, weather stripping is the answer. You should be able to find the product at any local home improvement store. You’ll likely need to purchase a roll of the stripping and cut it to size. However, it’s always a good idea to have some handy considering your trailer door likely sees frequent use and the stripping can wear down quickly.

If you don’t have access to a hardware store and notice a draft coming in beneath your door, you can create a makeshift weather strip with a towel or t-shirt.

Roll the fabric into the shape of a log and butt it up against the bottom of the door to reduce air flow. Remember that each time you open the door, you’ll need to put the fabric back in place.

When weather stripping does not seem to work, you may need to take more permanent action by re-caulking the area around your door.

Re-caulking the area around the door should be a part of your annual maintenance, but many camper owners neglect doing so. Be sure to fill in any cracks or holes with extra caulk, which should create a quality seal.

Method Four: Close the Vents

If your windows, walls, or doors are not the source of your insulation issues, you may want to look at the vents on your trailer. You should practice extreme caution when doing so though, as forgetting about the vents could create numerous safety issues and put your camper at risk. Cooking inside of the trailer without proper ventilation could increase your chances of carbon dioxide or monoxide poisoning.

The vents are also useful for allowing moisture and humidity to leave your vehicle. Leaving your vents closed in the summer could result in poor air circulation that causes considerable moisture damage. It could also increase the risk of mold developing in the camper.

So, if you are going to close the vents in your camper, make sure that you’re mindful of when they are open and shut.

One of the best solutions to close your vents is with a vent cushion. These devices don’t cost more than $15 or $20. However, they are sized to fit specific vents, so you should measure your vents before purchasing the products.

Vent cushions are useful both for cooling your RV in the summer and keeping it warmer in the winter by stopping the transfer of heat.

Some cushions are available with a reflective coating that repels the sun’s UV rays. Those worried about keeping their camper warm in the fall or winter probably don’t need to worry about this, but it could be a nice add-on for those dealing with insulation problems in the summer.

Installing the cushion is quick, as you merely climb up to the vent and stuff the product into place.

Conclusion on Trailer Insulation

If you’re someone who enjoys traveling throughout the year, there’s a good chance that you’re continually trying to figure out how to insulate a travel trailer.

Fortunately, we feel that the four methods that we’ve provided on this list will go a long way toward keeping your camper warm. You’ll be both comfortable and safe as a result.

One of the biggest things that trailer owners must weigh is the cost of the upgrades versus the cost of a new trailer.

For instance, replacing windows and doors in a camper could be expensive, depending on factors such as the age of the trailer, whether the surrounding material is dry-rotted or weather-damaged, and the materials you’re looking to use for the upgrade.

Today’s manufacturers offer state-of-the-art heating and cooling amenities. It could be in some trailer owner’s best interest to purchase a new unit rather than continuing to sink money into their existing vehicle. However, if you feel as though you are not yet ready to upgrade your trailer or are in need of a more short-term fix, the four methods that we’ve listed above should suffice.

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5 Best RV Insulation Tips: Choose the Perfect Option for Travel

RV insulation is crucial for comfort. Choose from fiberglass, foam, or rigid foam options. DIY techniques like skirting and sealing windows enhance insulation. Understanding R-value helps in selecting the right type for your RV’s needs.

If you’re an avid traveler or someone who loves to explore the great outdoors, chances are you own a travel trailer or RV.

These mobile homes provide us with the freedom to venture wherever we want while still keeping the comforts of home close at hand.

However, maintaining optimal comfort in your RV requires proper insulation.

Insulation is a critical factor that often gets overlooked when purchasing or upgrading an RV. The type of insulation used can significantly affect the comfort level inside the vehicle, especially in extreme weather conditions.

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Understanding what kind of insulation your RV has can greatly impact how well it holds up against the heat or cold.

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Types of Insulation

When it comes to RV insulation , you have several options to choose from. Let’s look at some of the most common ones:

Fiberglass Insulation

Resembling pink cotton candy, fiberglass insulation is the most common type of RV insulation that comes standard in many trailers.

It has a high R-value, making it an excellent choice for single-climate RVers.

However, it tends to hold onto moisture and breaks down quickly, which could lead to mold and mildew growth.

Foam Insulation

Foam insulation comes in two forms – rigid foam board and spray foam.

Rigid foam board insulation is the preferred choice in most cases due to its high R-value, durability, and ease of installation.

Spray foam insulation, on the other hand, offers a high R-value per square inch but can become expensive and time-consuming in the installation process.

Spray Foam Insulation

Spray foam insulation is not commonly used as factory-installed insulation. Many DIY enthusiasts like to use it to add an extra layer of insulation.

It has lower levels of R-value (around R-3.5) but is the easiest to install. It’s perfect for those hard-to-reach areas and can effectively seal any gaps or cracks.

Rigid Foam Board Insulation

Rigid foam board insulation is another popular choice among RV manufacturers.

Cut into precisely measured pieces, the foam is bonded with the exterior walls to create an airtight seal.

It typically has an R-value between 3.5 to 6, and in more advanced all-weather coaches, it can go up to R-10. You’ll find two types of rigid foam: Extruded Polystyrene (XPS) and Expanded Polystyrene (EPS).

DIY Insulating Techniques for Your Travel Trailer

Aside from the insulation installed in your RV, there are several do-it-yourself techniques you can adopt to improve your RV’s thermal resistance:

RV Skirting

RV skirting is an excellent way to keep the underside of your RV insulated during cold weather.

It acts as a barrier, preventing cold air from entering and hot air from escaping, thus helping maintain a consistent temperature inside your RV.

Sealing the Windows

Windows are common spots where heat can escape or enter your RV. Sealing them with weather-stripping tape or silicone caulk can significantly improve your RV’s insulation.

Multi-Pane Windows

Replacing single-pane windows with multi-pane ones can also enhance your RV’s insulation. Multi-pane windows feature two or more layers of glass with a gap in between, creating an additional barrier against heat transfer.

Window Coverings

Insulated window coverings like thermal curtains or reflective blinds can help prevent heat loss during winter and keep out heat during summer.

Shanty Airlocks

A shanty airlock is a small vestibule built at the entrance of your RV. It provides an extra layer of insulation and prevents heat or cool air from escaping every time the door is opened.

Gift Wrapping Your Door

A simple yet effective technique is to insulate your door by wrapping it with bubble wrap or insulating material. This low-cost solution can help reduce drafts and heat loss.

Roof Vent Lids and Covers

Insulating your roof vents with vent lids or covers can prevent heat from escaping and cold air from getting in.

Vent Insulation Pads

You can also purchase removable vent insulation pads that fit over your roof vents. They’re easy to install and remove, providing an extra layer of insulation when needed.

Understanding R-Value Measurements

R-value is a critical aspect when it comes to RV insulation. But understanding what it means and how to measure it is equally important.

Importance of R-Value in Insulation

In simple terms, R-value is a measure of how well a material resists heat flow. The higher the R-value, the better the material is at insulating.

When choosing insulation for your RV, you want to look for materials with a high R-value to ensure maximum thermal resistance.

How to Determine the Ideal R-Value for your RV

Determining the ideal R-value for your RV is not about the collective whole. Instead, you should focus on the thickness (in inches) per square foot.

Comparing various RV insulation types at the square-inch level can yield interesting results and help you make a more informed choice.

Role of the RV’s Roof in Insulation

The roof of your RV plays a significant role in its insulation. As heat rises, it’s the area most exposed to the sun and responsible for most of the “heavy lifting” when it comes to insulating your RV.

Composition of the RV’s Roof

Mostly, an RV’s roof comprises a top layer made of either a rubber composite or a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) membrane.

Underneath that, you’ll find a thick layer of insulation. The insulation value of your RV’s roof usually falls between R-10 to R-20, depending on the thickness.

Insulation Techniques for the RV’s Roof

One effective way to enhance your roof’s insulation is by ensuring that your A/C evaporators are functioning properly and not causing water to overflow onto your roof insulation.

Another preventive maintenance tip is adding a sealant layer – a white paint-like substance that can be rolled on. This sealant helps fight against the sun’s radiant heat, improving your RV’s insulation.

FAQs about Travel Trailer Insulation

We’ve covered a lot about RV insulation, but you may still have some questions. Here we answer some of the most commonly asked questions about travel trailer insulation:

What is the cheapest way to insulate a trailer?

The most cost-effective way to insulate a trailer is by using fiberglass insulation. It’s cheap, easy to install, and has a high R-value.

However, it tends to hold moisture and degrade quickly, so it might not be the best long-term solution.

What can I use to insulate my camper?

You can use various materials like fiberglass, foam board, spray foam, or rigid foam to insulate your camper. The choice depends on your specific requirements, budget, and the climate you’ll be traveling in.

Can you insulate a travel trailer for winter?

Yes, you can insulate a travel trailer for winter. In fact, it’s highly recommended if you plan on camping in colder climates.

You can do this by using high R-value insulation, sealing windows and doors, installing multi-pane windows, and skirting your RV.

What is the R-value of RV insulation?

Typically, the R-value of RV insulation varies greatly depending on the type of material.

Fiberglass insulation usually has an R-value between 13-19, while foam board insulation can range from 5 to 20. Remember, the higher the R-value, the better the insulation.

Choosing the right insulation for your travel trailer can seem daunting, but with the right information, you can make an informed decision.

Remember, the key is to consider your specific needs, the climate you’ll be traveling in, and your budget. With the right insulation, you can enjoy your RV adventures comfortably, no matter the weather conditions!

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RV Wall Repair Do It Yourself – Exterior and Interior – Water Damage Wall

Paying close attention to the part of your RV wall that needs repair will help you prevent greater problems and higher costs in the future. In the following, we’ll discuss some of the things, that you need to know in doing the repairs for yourself. If you’re ready, let’s begin and learn how to do some fixes to the wall of your RV.

May you like: Best RV Roof Coating – Rubber Roof Coating for RV Camper Trailer

Table of Contents

RV Interior Wall Repair

The first common issue is interior wall damage. In order to repair it, follow these steps.

Case 1 Changing the paneling

May you like: Best RV Roof Sealant – RV Rubber Roof Sealant

Case 2 Water damage in the RV wall

And for the results, let us try to compare with some before and after photos. Before, with all the mess mold mildew

Here is the end result with the new plywood up.

Tips for other cases

Rv fiberglass wall repair.

To make small repairs on the fiberglass wall, prepare the things, including drill, breathing mask, eye protection, gloves, sandpaper, fiberglass repair kit, auto body filler, and foam insulation.

• Wear eye protection, gloves & a breathing mask. Remember that fiberglass can be stuck in your skin. It is also unhealthy to inhale.
• Using a sharp knife, you can cut away the damaged portion.
• Repair the insulation located behind the sliding if deep holed. Use expanding foam insulation on it and let it dry. Sand the excess foam insulation to level it with the rest of the insulation.
• Mix auto body filler, apply to the hole & let dry before sand flushing.
• Repair the fiberglass by applying it over the filler. Allow to drying before sand flushing.
• Paint the repaired area. Choose the correct color of the touch-up paint.

RV Foam Wall Repair

Another walling material to repair in your RV is the foam wall. Here is what you need to do.

• Get rid of the hole debris. Take all the drywall or plaster pieces clinging to the hole’s edges.
• Use some old newspaper to stuff into the hole. Be sure to arrange that at the bottom because it needs to support the spray foam later. Make sure that the area behind the hole is clear.
• Spray foam into the hole but only up to ¾ of the way because the foam will later expand to fill the hole.
• Allow the foam to harden. Usually, it will take up to two hours. After, you can cut flush it to the wall surface with a utility knife before shaping it to concave.
• With a drywall joint compound, use a layer of it to the hardened foam. Scrape the joint compound flat using the utility knife and then letting it dry overnight. Again, apply a coating before scraping to finish the task.
• Start sanding the final coat you have just applied when dried. To finish the job, prime the patch using PVA wall primer before painting it.

RV Laminate Wall Repair

Delamination is one of the major issues that have been plaguing many RV owners through the years. When this happens, there is usually water regression in the Luan, also called the interior panel & the film sheeting outside.

Due to the moisture buildup, the adhesive quality will be compromised, resulting to warping or bubbling found on the surfaces. In some cases, it may be worth repairing but not in all. For the small cracks or punctures, you can repair them or take them to the auto-body repair shop or RV dealer.

With the aluminum siding, you can also find specific gel-coat-type waxes and cleaning products in order to keep the RV looking new.

RV Shower Wall Repair

Check out the following for tips on how to repair the RV shower wall.

• Turn the water supply off.
• Take the shower access panel out. If you cannot find the panel’s location, you should consult the RV manual.
• Locate and reach through the panel space. Disconnect both the cold and hot feeds, the pipes starting from the faucet assembly going to the showerhead, and the vacuum breaker.
• Remove fitted accessories. Remove shower walls. If your RV shower is not sectional, you can take the uppermost piece out first and then work all the way down towards the pan. In some cases, there may be brackets holding the panel to the enclosure. You can find them through the panel hole.
• Lift the shower pan, but avoid damaging the plumbing that carries the used water to the grey holding tank.
• Measure the exact size of the shower enclosure to buy a matching replacement.
• Read and follow the entire installation instructions that come with the replacement shower.

Read more: RV Sewer Hose Fittings

RV Water Damage Wall Repair

For water damage, expect a further challenge in the DIY task. Check out the following steps.

• Prepare a tape, 80-grit sandpaper, 60-grit sandpaper, epoxy resin or wood hardener, putty knife & wood putty.
• Look for water leak sources to prevent more water damage.
• If the leaks are entering through the windows, apply RV caulking.
• You can also patch up exterior siding and roof with waterproof tape. Apply it carefully because it will not come off once its backing sticks to the trailer.
• But for major exterior siding or roof repairs, you might want to ask help from a pro because it is labor-intensive.
• From the inside of the camper, look for all areas with water damage. Check the ceiling, floor & walls for signs as well as mushiness.
• You can also repair damaged wood in the wall by pulling off the loose pieces and smoothing the wood grit remaining using 80-grit sandpaper. Paint or spray-on epoxy resin or wood hardener. It will not just repair and harden the wood but will prevent mold growth, too.
• Apply wood putty after 24 hours in order to harden the wood. Use putty to fill the wood indents that resulted from the water damage. Dry the wood putty and sand it using 60-grit sandpaper to smooth it.
• Install the new paneling or wallpaper.

There you have some of the most common wall problems and fixes you can do yourself. But in the case of major repairs, you might want to seek help from a pro. Read more: Best RV Toilet Paper Eco-Friendly, Septic Safe & Clog-Free RV Toilet Tissue

I like that you said that in order to repair a fiberglass wall you need to have tools, such as a mask, fiberglass repair tool, auto body filler and many more. My friend talked about fixing the interior of his RV. I’m going to suggest to him about taking it with a professional that has all the tools needed.

This is a great how-to that you wrote up here. Now for me and my trailer, I need to get some of the panels repaired. I think if I followed your guide, I could manage to do some of them myself. However, they are badly damaged so it might be best to go with a professional for this one.

Mark, I usually add some L shaped steel brackets along the exterior walls and to the new flooring to increase the stability of the walls when traveling. This allows one to simply replace the flooring up to and not beneath the walls.

It’s helpful that you said to wear eye protection and a breathing mask so that fiberglass doesn’t become a problem. My trailer has a giant crack in the wall so I’ll be sure to fix it soon. I bet these tips will be helpful!

Some repairs need professional expertise but some repairs can be done easily with Liquid RV Roof. Liquid RV Roof is a true DIY product which can restore the old RV roof at a fraction of cost of roof replacement. With only a single coat it also saves labor and material costs. Serving the rv industry for over 27 years.

I am doing a remodel on my class A and I thank you for your information and definately people, wear a mask and glasses, there isn’t much worse than fiberglass particles in your eyes or mouth (been there!) also the wood, mold, potential rodent feces, and bugs are to be considered as well! Peel and stick wallpapers and tiles are great for bathroom and kitchen walls after your new panel is in place, they are smaller walls and easier to work on and nicely separates living areas without much fuss.

I have a pop up camper with water damage on one corner which is were the bracket to raise the top is located. The bolts from the bracket have started to tear through the interior wall. The damaged area is about 24″ across the top. Any ideas on how to repair this section of the wall and the bracket that is attached?

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RV Styrofoam Floor Replacement and Repair (Helpful Guide)

• January 23, 2023 /
• RV Interior /
• By James V.

The plywood and Styrofoam flooring in most RVs is not the best flooring material you can have. It serves a purpose and tries to give you a comfortable floor to walk on. It just won’t last especially if you get leaks.

This type of flooring keeps the weight off and helps make the trailer lighter. But it is not the most durable you can have. When it starts to sag in high-traffic areas injecting some epoxy is one method you can use to shore up the top plywood flooring material.

To learn more about this and other methods to rep[air Styrofoam flooring in your RV, just continue to read our article. It has the information you want to know about so you can do this task yourself. It is a medium to hard fix.

How To Restore Styrofoam Camper Flooring

Many RV owners have run into this problem. Because of the design of the RV or trailer, the floor receives high-traffic areas and areas that get no traffic. It is usually the high-traffic areas where the Styrofoam starts to compress too much and you get soft spots.

To fix those soft spots, you can use epoxy. This material can be injected into the area and help fill up the soft spot so it does not compress when you walk on it. To inject the epoxy, you would need to drill holes in the right spots.

Now you can drill from the top, which is fine or you can drill from the bottom. The bottom is a bit more difficult as it would require some sort of hose attached to the nozzle to spray into the affected area without having it come back out on you.

The epoxy should work fine but it may not last. Other people have replaced the epoxy with some resin but that material needs some extra support so it does not compress.

Even if you choose this method, you may end up replacing the top layer of plywood anyways. That is because the constant traffic weight has damaged it in places.

There are drawbacks to using this method as well as resin as the drilling can weaken the plywood that Is not damaged. Or the styrofoam, epoxy, or resin breaks down again and you are left with the same problem. Sometimes in another spot on the floor.

RV Styrofoam Floor Replacement

This is probably the best of all ideas. Fixing soft spots will work temporarily but they are more of a fix the symptom type repair and do not get to the actual cause of the problem.

The problem is not the compression that creates soft spots but the thin layers of plywood and the Styrofoam material. They are just not that strong to last a long time. If you have the budget for it, replacement is the best option.

When you go to replace the flooring in your RV, you will have lots of options to choose from. There is plywood and vinyl, plywood and carpet, wood planking, vinyl planking, tiles, and so on.

Your first task would be to pick which type of flooring you want instead of the Styrofoam and thin luan plywood already there. Styrofoam is used more as insulation and you can put that back in if you want. But underneath the sub-floor.

But you would need a good subfloor that is thicker than luan plywood. The thickness of the sub-floor should be greater than 1/4 inch. You want a solid subfloor for better stability and strength. Some people go 3/4 inch thick plywood even though it is heavy material to use.

On top of the subfloor, you can add whatever flooring material you want to use. One owner renovating his fixer-upper trailer turned to bamboo flooring planks. It is a strong, solid flooring material that should withstand heavy traffic. Plus, it looks good when completed.

As long as the sub-flooring is strong, durable, and protected, the type of flooring material is best left to your preferences.

RV Sandwich Floor Repair

First off, the term sandwich refers to the luan plywood, foam, and luan plywood layers most RV makers use to create their flooring. The Styrofoam is the inside of the sandwich.

The second thing that needs to be mentioned is that besides heavy traffic, the foam starts to break down when it absorbs water. This is often the number one cause of soft spots in your RV’s flooring.

When those soft spots occur, you need to take quick action before they get worse. This means you have to find a good way to repair those smaller spots without ruining the whole floor.

To repair those soft spots, here are some steps to follow:

1. Find the source of the water leak- this is very important as you need to seal the leak before you replace the damaged soft spot. If you don’t then you are just setting yourself up for another repair sooner than you would like.

The water leak could come from degraded pipe connections, condensation, or a leak in your roof somewhere due to seals failing, etc. Fix the leak in the correct manner so you do not have to worry about more floor damage.

2 . Cut out the soft spot- this is one option you have at your disposal. It is either do this or fill the soft spot with epoxy or resin. Your choice but the former is the better of the two options.

Cut out the soft spot by drilling some guide holes and using your jigsaw or flexible saw. Then remove the flooring material. This may be difficult as the flooring material is glued down very heavily by the RV maker.

Once the material is done, replace the old flooring with a new panel of the same type of material.

3. The epoxy option- this is not as hard as the previous method. The reason for that is you are only drilling evenly spaced holes over the soft spot. Depending on the size of the soft spot, those holes should be 6 inches apart.

Then mix up some epoxy and inject it into those holes. Do not overfill the holes. The epoxy will spread out into the cavity and supply the reinforcement you want.

The steps are not that hard to follow. The difficult part of the replacement method is removing the old flooring as it is supposed to be glued very tightly to the beams underneath the floor.

The epoxy may not last as long as you would like. It just helps you in the short term to make sure you can walk safely throughout your RV or trailer.

Can You Epoxy a Camper Floor?

Yes, you can and it is one of the first solutions most RV owners will tell you to use. It does the trick if you follow the directions on the can for mixing the epoxy. Plus, it is an inexpensive way to fix a problem.

But epoxy is not a long-term solution especially if you do not find the leak that caused the problem in the first place or change your walking routes. This method is best for minor repairs or small soft spots.

When your soft spot is quite large, then you are left with cutting out the old flooring and replacing it with similar material or other construction flooring materials.

We cannot stress it enough but you really have to check for any water leaks that may have contributed to the damaged flooring. If you store your RV or trailer for long periods of time without proper airflow, then it will be the condensation that caused the problem.

Make sure that you store the RV or trailer correctly so that you do not have to do any repair work due to condensation. The condensation may also cause mold to grow in the sub-flooring area which will make it necessary to replace the whole floor.

When you do the cut out method, look for mold growing in those damaged areas. Then use some anti-mold chemicals to kill it before it spreads too far.

RV Floor Repair Epoxy

There are different brands of epoxy you can buy. Some come in large enough containers that will do more than one soft spot with ease. Others come in smaller containers that would work for very small soft spots.

1. Pro Marine- the two parts come in 2-quart jugs that should provide you with more than enough epoxy to fix your flooring. It is made in the U.s. and it can be applied to your flooring problem.

Just follow the instructions and make sure you have a proper injector to get it into your flooring areas. It may take a few hours for this epoxy brand to set up correctly. The cost is $77 approx. At Amazon

2. Beast Bond- another 2-part, a 2-quart epoxy kit that makes sure you can get your repairs done quickly. It doesn’t take long to mix and its free-flowing texture should make it easy to inject into your floor.

After injecting, it should take between 24 and 48 hours to cure. Plus, it is a self-leveling type of epoxy that should fill all those soft spots with ease. The cost is $70 approx. At Amazon.

3. Crystal Clear Epoxy Resin Kit- this option comes in 21-ounce bottles, one for each part. It too is a self-leveling epoxy that is easy to pour into those drilled holes.

There is not supposed to be a foul odor and your working time is only 30 minutes approx. Curing time may be a few hours though so give it time to set up and harden. The cost of this product is $40 approx. at Amazon.

4. Axil Floor Fit Kit- this is a 2-part epoxy designed to work with flooring materials. It is not available at Amazon but is sold on this website for approx $55.

Once mixed it should flow easily to fill any gaps and voids in your flooring. When it cures, it is supposed to strengthen the flooring material around it. Like the other epoxy options on this list, it has multiple applications so you can repair other problems around your trailer or camper.

3 Reasons Why You Have Soft Spots in Your RV

When you feel those soft spots, you know that there is always a cause. Here are the three causes that will create those annoying soft spots.

1. Water or moisture damage- it goes without saying that water or moisture can do a lot of damage to an RV if you are not careful. Water will find a way to get to different parts of your flooring even if the leak is halfway across your RV.

When it does, the foam can absorb it causing the foam to break down or weaken. That action creates the soft spot. We say moisture because humidity can often be the cause of the soft spots as can the water used in your kitchen and bathroom

2. The foam breaks down- it is not the strongest material in the world and too much weight on one spot or a lot of traffic can compress that foam. When the foam breaks down, the flooring material will buckle under your weight.

3. Bad installation by the manufacturer- these things happen as all RV owners can attest. Sometimes the fault for the soft spots in your flooring is not yours. The fault belongs to the inferior construction methods used by different RV makers.

Some Final Words

There will be times when you will experience these soft spots. If you use your RV or trailer a lot or walk in one route all the time, the foam will eventually break down. For small soft spots, epoxy is the best way to go.

For bigger soft spots, replacement is the only option. That is a lot more work but it is better, stronger, and longer lasting than epoxy. Or just replace the whole floor with something prettier but stronger than what is there now.

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Travel Itinerary For One Week in Moscow: The Best of Moscow!

I just got back from one week in Moscow. And, as you might have already guessed, it was a mind-boggling experience. It was not my first trip to the Russian capital. But I hardly ever got enough time to explore this sprawling city. Visiting places for business rarely leaves enough time for sightseeing. I think that if you’ve got one week in Russia, you can also consider splitting your time between its largest cities (i.e. Saint Petersburg ) to get the most out of your trip. Seven days will let you see the majority of the main sights and go beyond just scratching the surface. In this post, I’m going to share with you my idea of the perfect travel itinerary for one week in Moscow.

Moscow is perhaps both the business and cultural hub of Russia. There is a lot more to see here than just the Kremlin and Saint Basil’s Cathedral. Centuries-old churches with onion-shaped domes dotted around the city are in stark contrast with newly completed impressive skyscrapers of Moscow City dominating the skyline. I spent a lot of time thinking about my Moscow itinerary before I left. And this city lived up to all of my expectations.

Travel Itinerary For One Week in Moscow

Day 1 – red square and the kremlin.

Metro Station: Okhotny Ryad on Red Line.

No trip to Moscow would be complete without seeing its main attraction. The Red Square is just a stone’s throw away from several metro stations. It is home to some of the most impressive architectural masterpieces in the city. The first thing you’ll probably notice after entering it and passing vendors selling weird fur hats is the fairytale-like looking Saint Basil’s Cathedral. It was built to commemorate one of the major victories of Ivan the Terrible. I once spent 20 minutes gazing at it, trying to find the perfect angle to snap it. It was easier said than done because of the hordes of locals and tourists.

As you continue strolling around Red Square, there’s no way you can miss Gum. It was widely known as the main department store during the Soviet Era. Now this large (yet historic) shopping mall is filled with expensive boutiques, pricey eateries, etc. During my trip to Moscow, I was on a tight budget. So I only took a retro-style stroll in Gum to get a rare glimpse of a place where Soviet leaders used to grocery shop and buy their stuff. In case you want some modern shopping experience, head to the Okhotny Ryad Shopping Center with stores like New Yorker, Zara, and Adidas.

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To continue this Moscow itinerary, next you may want to go inside the Kremlin walls. This is the center of Russian political power and the president’s official residence. If you’re planning to pay Kremlin a visit do your best to visit Ivan the Great Bell Tower as well. Go there as early as possible to avoid crowds and get an incredible bird’s-eye view. There are a couple of museums that are available during designated visiting hours. Make sure to book your ticket online and avoid lines.

Day 2 – Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, the Tretyakov Gallery, and the Arbat Street

Metro Station: Kropotkinskaya on Red Line

As soon as you start creating a Moscow itinerary for your second day, you’ll discover that there are plenty of metro stations that are much closer to certain sites. Depending on your route, take a closer look at the metro map to pick the closest.

The white marble walls of Christ the Saviour Cathedral are awe-inspiring. As you approach this tallest Orthodox Christian church, you may notice the bronze sculptures, magnificent arches, and cupolas that were created to commemorate Russia’s victory against Napoleon.

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Unfortunately, the current Cathedral is a replica, since original was blown to bits in 1931 by the Soviet government. The new cathedral basically follows the original design, but they have added some new elements such as marble high reliefs.

Home to some precious collection of artworks, in Tretyakov Gallery you can find more than 150,000 of works spanning centuries of artistic endeavor. Originally a privately owned gallery, it now has become one of the largest museums in Russia. The Gallery is often considered essential to visit. But I have encountered a lot of locals who have never been there.

Famous for its souvenirs, musicians, and theaters, Arbat street is among the few in Moscow that were turned into pedestrian zones. Arbat street is usually very busy with tourists and locals alike. My local friend once called it the oldest street in Moscow dating back to 1493. It is a kilometer long walking street filled with fancy gift shops, small cozy restaurants, lots of cute cafes, and street artists. It is closed to any vehicular traffic, so you can easily stroll it with kids.

Day 3 – Moscow River Boat Ride, Poklonnaya Hill Victory Park, the Moscow City

Metro Station: Kievskaya and Park Pobedy on Dark Blue Line / Vystavochnaya on Light Blue Line

Voyaging along the Moscow River is definitely one of the best ways to catch a glimpse of the city and see the attractions from a bit different perspective. Depending on your Moscow itinerary, travel budget and the time of the year, there are various types of boats available. In the summer there is no shortage of boats, and you’ll be spoiled for choice.

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If you find yourself in Moscow during the winter months, I’d recommend going with Radisson boat cruise. These are often more expensive (yet comfy). They offer refreshments like tea, coffee, hot chocolate, and, of course, alcoholic drinks. Prices may vary but mostly depend on your food and drink selection. Find their main pier near the opulent Ukraine hotel . The hotel is one of the “Seven Sisters”, so if you’re into the charm of Stalinist architecture don’t miss a chance to stay there.

The area near Poklonnaya Hill has the closest relation to the country’s recent past. The memorial complex was completed in the mid-1990s to commemorate the Victory and WW2 casualties. Also known as the Great Patriotic War Museum, activities here include indoor attractions while the grounds around host an open-air museum with old tanks and other vehicles used on the battlefield.

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The hallmark of the memorial complex and the first thing you see as you exit metro is the statue of Nike mounted to its column. This is a very impressive Obelisk with a statue of Saint George slaying the dragon at its base.

Maybe not as impressive as Shanghai’s Oriental Pearl Tower , the skyscrapers of the Moscow City (otherwise known as Moscow International Business Center) are so drastically different from dull Soviet architecture. With 239 meters and 60 floors, the Empire Tower is the seventh highest building in the business district.

The observation deck occupies 56 floor from where you have some panoramic views of the city. I loved the view in the direction of Moscow State University and Luzhniki stadium as well to the other side with residential quarters. The entrance fee is pricey, but if you’re want to get a bird’s eye view, the skyscraper is one of the best places for doing just that.

Day 4 – VDNKh, Worker and Collective Farm Woman Monument, The Ostankino TV Tower

Metro Station: VDNKh on Orange Line

VDNKh is one of my favorite attractions in Moscow. The weird abbreviation actually stands for Russian vystavka dostizheniy narodnogo khozyaystva (Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy). With more than 200 buildings and 30 pavilions on the grounds, VDNKh serves as an open-air museum. You can easily spend a full day here since the park occupies a very large area.

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First, there are pavilions that used to showcase different cultures the USSR was made of. Additionally, there is a number of shopping pavilions, as well as Moskvarium (an Oceanarium) that features a variety of marine species. VDNKh is a popular venue for events and fairs. There is always something going on, so I’d recommend checking their website if you want to see some particular exhibition.

A stone’s throw away from VDNKh there is a very distinctive 25-meters high monument. Originally built in 1937 for the world fair in Paris, the hulking figures of men and women holding a hammer and a sickle represent the Soviet idea of united workers and farmers. It doesn’t take much time to see the monument, but visiting it gives some idea of the Soviet Union’s grandiose aspirations.

I have a thing for tall buildings. So to continue my travel itinerary for one week in Moscow I decided to climb the fourth highest TV tower in the world. This iconic 540m tower is a fixture of the skyline. You can see it virtually from everywhere in Moscow, and this is where you can get the best panoramic views (yep, even better than Empire skyscraper).

Parts of the floor are made of tempered glass, so it can be quite scary to exit the elevator. But trust me, as you start observing buildings and cars below, you won’t want to leave. There is only a limited number of tickets per day, so you may want to book online. Insider tip: the first tour is cheaper, you can save up to $10 if go there early.

Day 5 – A Tour To Moscow Manor Houses

Metro Station: Kolomenskoye, Tsaritsyno on Dark Green Line / Kuskovo on Purple Line

I love visiting the manor houses and palaces in Moscow. These opulent buildings were generally built to house Russian aristocratic families and monarchs. Houses tend to be rather grand affairs with impressive architecture. And, depending on the whims of the owners, some form of a landscaped garden.

During the early part of the 20th century though, many of Russia’s aristocratic families (including the family of the last emperor) ended up being killed or moving abroad . Their manor houses were nationalized. Some time later (after the fall of the USSR) these were open to the public. It means that today a great many of Moscow’s finest manor houses and palaces are open for touring.

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There are 20 manor houses scattered throughout the city and more than 25 in the area around. But not all of them easily accessible and exploring them often takes a lot of time. I’d recommend focusing on three most popular estates in Moscow that are some 30-minute metro ride away from Kremlin.

Sandwiched between the Moscow River and the Andropov Avenue, Kolomenskoye is a UNESCO site that became a public park in the 1920’s. Once a former royal estate, now it is one of the most tranquil parks in the city with gorgeous views. The Ascension Church, The White Column, and the grounds are a truly grand place to visit.

You could easily spend a full day here, exploring a traditional Russian village (that is, in fact, a market), picnicking by the river, enjoying the Eastern Orthodox church architecture, hiking the grounds as well as and wandering the park and gardens with wildflower meadows, apple orchards, and birch and maple groves. The estate museum showcases Russian nature at its finest year-round.

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If my travel itinerary for one week in Moscow was a family tree, Tsaritsyno Park would probably be the crazy uncle that no-one talks about. It’s a large park in the south of the city of mind-boggling proportions, unbelievable in so many ways, and yet most travelers have never heard of it.

The palace was supposed to be a summer home for Empress Catherine the Great. But since the construction didn’t meet with her approval the palace was abandoned. Since the early 1990’s the palace, the pond, and the grounds have been undergoing renovations. The entire complex is now looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. Like most parks in Moscow, you can visit Tsaritsyno free of charge, but there is a small fee if you want to visit the palace.

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Last, but by no means least on my Moscow itinerary is Kuskovo Park . This is definitely an off-the-beaten-path place. While it is not easily accessible, you will be rewarded with a lack of crowds. This 18th-century summer country house of the Sheremetev family was one of the first summer country estates of the Russian nobility. And when you visit you’ll quickly realize why locals love this park.

Like many other estates, Kuskovo has just been renovated. So there are lovely French formal garden, a grotto, and the Dutch house to explore. Make sure to plan your itinerary well because the estate is some way from a metro station.

Day 6 – Explore the Golden Ring

Creating the Moscow itinerary may keep you busy for days with the seemingly endless amount of things to do. Visiting the so-called Golden Ring is like stepping back in time. Golden Ring is a “theme route” devised by promotion-minded journalist and writer Yuri Bychkov.

Having started in Moscow the route will take you through a number of historical cities. It now includes Suzdal, Vladimir, Kostroma, Yaroslavl and Sergiev Posad. All these awe-inspiring towns have their own smaller kremlins and feature dramatic churches with onion-shaped domes, tranquil residential areas, and other architectural landmarks.

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I only visited two out of eight cities included on the route. It is a no-brainer that Sergiev Posad is the nearest and the easiest city to see on a day trip from Moscow. That being said, you can explore its main attractions in just one day. Located some 70 km north-east of the Russian capital, this tiny and overlooked town is home to Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius, UNESCO Site.

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Sergiev Posad is often described as being at the heart of Russian spiritual life. So it is uncommon to see the crowds of Russian pilgrims showing a deep reverence for their religion. If you’re traveling independently and using public transport, you can reach Sergiev Posad by bus (departs from VDNKh) or by suburban commuter train from Yaroslavskaya Railway Station (Bahnhof). It takes about one and a half hours to reach the town.

Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius is a great place to get a glimpse of filling and warming Russian lunch, specifically at the “ Gostevaya Izba ” restaurant. Try the duck breast, hearty potato and vegetables, and the awesome Napoleon cake.

Day 7 – Gorky Park, Izmailovo Kremlin, Patriarch’s Ponds

Metro Station: Park Kultury or Oktyabrskaya on Circle Line / Partizanskaya on Dark Blue Line / Pushkinskaya on Dark Green Line

Gorky Park is in the heart of Moscow. It offers many different types of outdoor activities, such as dancing, cycling, skateboarding, walking, jogging, and anything else you can do in a park. Named after Maxim Gorky, this sprawling and lovely park is where locals go on a picnic, relax and enjoy free yoga classes. It’s a popular place to bike around, and there is a Muzeon Art Park not far from here. A dynamic location with a younger vibe. There is also a pier, so you can take a cruise along the river too.

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The Kremlin in Izmailovo is by no means like the one you can find near the Red Square. Originally built for decorative purposes, it now features the Vernissage flea market and a number of frequent fairs, exhibitions, and conferences. Every weekend, there’s a giant flea market in Izmailovo, where dozens of stalls sell Soviet propaganda crap, Russian nesting dolls, vinyl records, jewelry and just about any object you can imagine. Go early in the morning if you want to beat the crowds.

All the Bulgakov’s fans should pay a visit to Patriarch’s Ponds (yup, that is plural). With a lovely small city park and the only one (!) pond in the middle, the location is where the opening scene of Bulgakov’s novel Master and Margarita was set. The novel is centered around a visit by Devil to the atheistic Soviet Union is considered by many critics to be one of the best novels of the 20th century. I spent great two hours strolling the nearby streets and having lunch in the hipster cafe.

Conclusion and Recommendations

To conclude, Moscow is a safe city to visit. I have never had a problem with getting around and most locals are really friendly once they know you’re a foreigner. Moscow has undergone some serious reconstruction over the last few years. So you can expect some places to be completely different. I hope my one week Moscow itinerary was helpful! If you have less time, say 4 days or 5 days, I would cut out day 6 and day 7. You could save the Golden Ring for a separate trip entirely as there’s lots to see!

What are your thoughts on this one week Moscow itinerary? Are you excited about your first time in the city? Let me know in the comments below!

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24 comments.

Ann Snook-Moreau

Moscow looks so beautiful and historic! Thanks for including public transit information for those of us who don’t like to rent cars.

MindTheTravel

Yup, that is me 🙂 Rarely rent + stick to the metro = Full wallet!

Mariella Blago

Looks like you had loads of fun! Well done. Also great value post for travel lovers.

Thanks, Mariella!

I have always wanted to go to Russia, especially Moscow. These sights look absolutely beautiful to see and there is so much history there!

Agree! Moscow is a thousand-year-old city and there is definitely something for everyone.

Tara Pittman

Those are amazing buildings. Looks like a place that would be amazing to visit.

Adriana Lopez

Never been to Moscow or Russia but my family has. Many great spots and a lot of culture. Your itinerary sounds fantastic and covers a lot despite it is only a short period of time.

What was their favourite thing about Russia?

Gladys Parker

I know very little about Moscow or Russia for the\at matter. I do know I would have to see the Red Square and all of its exquisite architectural masterpieces. Also the CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST THE SAVIOUR. Thanks for shedding some light on visiting Moscow.

Thanks for swinging by! The Red Square is a great starting point, but there way too many places and things to discover aside from it!

Ruthy @ Percolate Kitchen

You are making me so jealous!! I’ve always wanted to see Russia.

Moscow is in my bucket list, I don’t know when I can visit there, your post is really useful. As a culture rich place we need to spend at least week.

DANA GUTKOWSKI

Looks like you had a great trip! Thanks for all the great info! I’ve never been in to Russia, but this post makes me wanna go now!

Wow this is amazing! Moscow is on my bucket list – such an amazing place to visit I can imagine! I can’t wait to go there one day!

The building on the second picture looks familiar. I keep seeing that on TV.

Reesa Lewandowski

What beautiful moments! I always wish I had the personality to travel more like this!

Perfect itinerary for spending a week in Moscow! So many places to visit and it looks like you had a wonderful time. I would love to climb that tower. The views I am sure must have been amazing!

I was lucky enough to see the skyline of Moscow from this TV Tower and it is definitely mind-blowing.

Chelsea Pearl

Moscow is definitely up there on my travel bucket list. So much history and iconic architecture!

Thumbs up! 🙂

Blair Villanueva

OMG I dream to visit Moscow someday! Hope the visa processing would be okay (and become more affordable) so I could pursue my dream trip!

Yup, visa processing is the major downside! Agree! Time and the money consuming process…

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Partner content

Moscow for everyone: Here's how to enjoy the Russian capital whatever your passion

Flanked by the imposing buildings of the Kremlin, the stepped granite blocks of Lenin’s Mausoleum and the fanciful onion domes of St Basil’s Cathedral, Moscow's Red Square is nothing short of legendary, but only a taste of what the Russian capital has to offer.

Manicured gardens and parks, brutalist monuments, quirky museums, open-air cinemas and glitzy boutiques co-exist in this storied city, which burst into the 21st century with a slew of restaurant openings and grand urban schemes.

Visitors have never had it so easy, with a raft of digital innovations designed to facilitate and enhance the tourist experience.

One such is the RUSSPASS , a new e-service that allows users not only to plan and book attractions in Moscow and across Russia, but also to create bespoke itineraries to suit every type of interest and budget. The RUSSPASS app is available in English and Spanish and allows tourists to buy e-tickets and to top up the balance of a Moscow transport card.

Beyond caviar and ballet

Moscow’s burgeoning gastronomic scene has been causing a stir locally and internationally. Published for the first time in 2021, the Michelin Moscow Guide awarded its prestigious stars to no fewer than nine of the city’s restaurants. A total of 69 restaurants were recommended, with three of them awarded ‘green stars’ for sustainability. Fifteen restaurants received the ‘Bib Gourmand’, which acknowledges excellent cooking at affordable prices.

Time-honoured haunts for blinis and caviar include the baroque Café Pushkin and the formidable soviet-themed Dr Zhivago , while the glass-domed White Rabbit , whose chef starred in Netflix's 'Chef's Table', continues to dazzle with creative twists on classic dishes. Also creating a stir is Twins Garden , which focuses on wildly inventive vegetable dishes and home-grown produce.

As the country emerges from the pandemic, music, theatre and exhibitions are also back on the agenda. A performance from the matchless Bolshoi Ballet has been a hot ticket since the 18th century, but the Bolshoi Theatre is just one of more than 700 Moscow cultural centers.

These include world-renowned palaces of art such as the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts , a remarkable collection bringing together masterpieces from every major Western movement as well as Egyptian antiquities.

Lesser-known but equally fascinating galleries lie all over the city. An offshoot of the Tretyakov Gallery, the New Tretyakov Gallery also focuses on modern Russian artists, and features works by Kandinsky, Chagall and Popova, among many others.

Moscow's wealth of parks and curious architecture make it a great place for children. The fairytale colours of buildings such as St Basil's Cathedral are every match for the architectural whimsy at Dream Island , a huge indoor theme park where cartoon characters wander through the crowds.

The shiplike Northern River Terminal, built in the 1930s in a Stalinist style, is also a favourite, and has recently undergone dramatic renovation. It now includes a wealth of children’s playgrounds, heating swimming pools and a winter ice rink.

Other ways to keep the little ones entertained include catching a movie at the Khudozhestvenny cinema or a trip on the Moskva River cable car. This vertiginous ride has panoramic views over the city, taking in the Moscow river, the Ostankino TV and radio tower and the skyscrapers of the business district.

These and other activities for children and families are laid out in the official city tourist portal, discovermoscow.com . Here you’ll find information on every type of attraction, from which animals can be petted at the VDNH city farm to the best street food snacks and where they can be found.

It’s a huge and colourful resource, covering the most obscure museums and secret parks, with suggestions for different days of the week and a blog-style news section. On a practical level it lays bare the transport system, COVID-19 protocols, Wi-Fi possibilities and where to hire bikes and scooters.

Rising to current challenges with innovation

Not only its attractions, but also Moscow’s enormous efforts to face the health crisis in practical and forward-thinking ways have been acknowledged on the international stage. In 2021 it has been nominated for both World’s Leading City Destination and Europe’s Leading City Destination at the World Travel Awards.”

The authorities’ support for the travel industry in troubled times has seen dozens of online events and international tourism conferences, as well as the launch of the Moscow Travel Hub, a collaborative platform to promote the creation and development of new products and services.

The spring of 2021 saw the Moscow Travel Hack, an extensive hackathon in which finalists were offered financial support for the implementation of their products, at a time when digital tourism solutions have never been so integral.

Digital tourists can use discovermoscow.com to take a virtual trip to the ballet or opera and even watch cooking or fashion shows. Together with the wealth of detail and endless images of the site, even armchair travellers can experience the wonders of Russia’s greatest metropolis.

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