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3-Day Itinerary in Sarajevo: the best things to see in Bosnia’s capital!

Sarajevo is a city full of history and surprises. It is by far one of our  favorite cities in the Balkans  because it is so diverse and unique. This guide is for you if you’re planning a trip to Sarajevo and want to get the best out of your time there. And guess what? You can easily fit all the best things to do in Sarajevo in just 3 days!

In this guide, we’ve put together an itinerary that covers the  best things to do in 3 days in Sarajevo  so you can make your trip as memorable as possible. We have combined a bit of our personal experience with interesting tips we got from locals during our visits to create this epic 3-day Sarajevo itinerary.

Sarajevo Itinerary Day 1: Exploring the Old Town

Sarajevo is a  mix of Eastern and Western cultures , and this is one of the things that make this city so special. On one side, you have mosques, bazaars, and a clear influence of the Ottoman times. On the other, you have Catholic and Orthodox churches along with Austrian-style buildings and a modern side of town.

On the first day of your 3 days in Sarajevo, the idea is that you explore the  capital’s Old Town , which represents the Western side. Sarajevo’s Old Town is the heart and soul of the city.

Below we will guide you step-by-step through everything you need to see on this first day in Sarajevo:

The Sarajevo Sebilj and the Baščaršija region

The  Baščaršija region  is a lively pedestrian zone filled with restaurants and souvenir shops. This is the center of Sarajevo’s Old Town and a point you can use for reference when getting a taxi or searching for accommodation (more about this later!).

One of the most important attractions of the Baščaršija region is the  Sarajevo Sebilj , a wooden fountain also known as Pigeon Square (for obvious reasons). The Sebilj is one of the most famous landmarks in Sarajevo and it dates back to 1753. There is a local legend that says that whoever drinks the water from the Sebilj fountain will return to Sarajevo someday –  so make sure you have a sip just to be safe.

Wander around and do some shopping at the Old Town Bazaar

The Old Town Bazaar is one of the most popular attractions in Sarajevo and it reminds us a lot of Bazaars in Istanbul and other Ottoman-influenced cities. The market extends through the entire Baščaršija region and it is filled with souvenir shops, traditional restaurants (in fact, some of the best places to eat are here!), and coffee places. 

If you are looking to bring home some souvenirs from your trip to Sarajevo, this is the best place to get them as you will find the most variety. They also sell beautiful handmade pots and  džezva , which they use to make traditional Bosnian coffee.

PS:  Make sure you carry cash with you if you intend on buying things at the Bazaar.

Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque

You will quickly notice that the Old Town revolves around the mosque located in the center, called  Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque . Tourists can visit the mosque if dressed appropriately, outside of prayer hours. You can buy the ticket directly on-site. I really recommend doing so, the mosque is beautiful from the inside!

On a quick walk around the mosque, you can notice that many other buildings have the same name Gazi Husrev-beg. That is because there is an entire complex built to support the community – from schools to a library and museum. The Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque is a very important spot in the city, not only as an attraction but also for the locals.

Pass by the Old Bezistan Covered Market

Since you will be in the area, make sure you pass by the  Old Bezistan Covered Market . It has changed a lot throughout the years but it is an important part of Sarajevo’s history. During the Ottoman Empire, this was an important market used to trade things like fabrics and spices, even though nowadays the building is prettier from the outside than inside. 

On that same square, you can also see the  ruins of Tašlihan , which was used as an inn for merchants during the Ottoman times.

Visit the Markale for fresh local produce & see the Sarajevo Roses

The Markale is not a place many travel guides recommend visiting, but for us, checking out the local market is one of the best ways of getting in contact with the local culture. This is where you can find fresh produce directly from the farmers. We tried some amazing cheese and charcuterie in there, we can strongly recommend it.

In Sarajevo, the Markale is very worth the visit not only for the local produce but also for its historical importance. During the Siege of Sarajevo, a violent massacre happened just outside the market that caused the death of many people. The place where it happened is marked by a red symbol on the floor, called a Sarajevo Rose.

You can find the  Sarajevo Roses  throughout the entire town, they are memorials of places where attacks happened, which were in most cases mortar explosions. The exact location where the mortars exploded was then painted with red resins around to make up the memorial roses.

Stand in the middle of Sarajevo’s Meeting of cultures

Remember that I started this guide by saying that one of the most special things about Sarajevo was how the Eastern and Western cultures are able to coexist in one place?

Well, this is the exact place that marks the  encounter of both sides .

The “Meeting of cultures” is marked by a line on the floor. It is easy to spot as very often there are groups of tourists around it. If you stand in the middle and look to one side, you will see the Western side only. If you turn around, you will be facing the Eastern side. The differences between them are very clearly visible, which makes this such a strong symbol of the city.

Go for a traditional Bosnian coffee and baklava

You cannot say you have truly experienced Sarajevo until you have stopped for a traditional Bosnian coffee. The place we recommend going to is called  Coffee Dućan .

From the outside, you cannot see much but once you walk in, you will see the entire courtyard filled with tables and people having coffee and tea outside. It has a very interesting vibe and they serve true Bosnian coffee.

Kovači Martyr’s Cemetery

During the afternoon part of this first day of your Sarajevo itinerary, we recommend walking up to the  Kovači Martyr’s Cemetery . This is the main cemetery for soldiers who died during the Bosnian War and the Siege of Sarajevo.

Those were very violent times in Bosnia’s capital, with over 300 grenades per day and almost 12,000 residents deceased, including 1,500 children. If you want to learn more in-depth about the city’s history, we recommend doing a Free Walking Tour that is led by local guides who share the story of the war and much more.

Climb up to the Yellow Fortress to see Sarajevo from above

Just a few meters higher than the cemetery is the Yellow Fortress, where you can see an  ample view of the city of Sarajevo . It was built between 1727 and 1739 and it used to serve as one of the defense points against the Austro-Hungarian empire.

Entrance to the Yellow Fortress is free and you can enter from 8 am to midnight every day. There is a small cafe located at the top, but the best thing about this place is the view. Sarajevo is surrounded by hills and from here, you can get a very good idea of how the entire city is displayed.

Pro tip : The Yellow Fortress is one of the best places in Sarajevo for watching the sunset! Walk up at the end of the day if you want to catch the sunset light from the top.

Sarajevo Itinerary Day 2: Getting to know the Eastern side of the city

Since the first day of the 3-day Sarajevo itinerary was dedicated to the Western part of the city, it is now time to explore the Eastern side.

Sacred Heart Cathedral

Only a few meters after the “Meeting of Cultures” point that you have been on the first day of this Sarajevo Itinerary, you will find the  largest catholic church in Bosnia and Herzegovina  called Sacred Heart Cathedral.

The Cathedral is considered one of the most important landmarks of Sarajevo and it is even featured in the flag of Sarajevo Canton and the coat of arms of Sarajevo.

Throughout the year, there are often events happening in the square in front of the Cathedral.

See the Eternal Flame

The Eternal Flame of Sarajevo is a  memorial for the victims of World War II  and a must-visit landmark. A simple tribute, the monument has been burning since 1946, the first anniversary of the liberation of Sarajevo after it was under the control of the German Nazis for four years.

Cathedral of the Nativity of the Theotokos

In this 3-Day Sarajevo Guide, we have guided you through a Mosque and a Catholic church, so now it is time to see the  largest Orthodox Church in Sarajevo .

The Cathedral of the Nativity of the Theotokos is a Serbian Orthodox Church located in a beautiful square. The entrance is free.

Walk to the Latin Bridge

The Latin Bridge is one of the most important places in Sarajevo when it comes to world history. It was on this bridge in 1914 that a shot rang out and Gavrilo Princip assassinated Austrian Archduke Ferdinand – the  event which started WWI .

Today there is a memorial plaque at the site of the shooting and also a museum around the corner that covers all about this historical event. It is worth taking time to go stand at the very spot where the world changed forever.

Take a nice walk through Miljacka Riverfront

The Miljacka Riverfront is one of my favorite places in Sarajevo. We strongly recommend you spare some time on your schedule to just walk through the streets and take in the atmosphere of the town.

By the river, you will find many important buildings such as the  National Theatre , and some of the university buildings such as the  Academy of Fine Arts , which is a remarkable building.

Walk up to Vijećnica, the old City Hall

On one of the edges of the river, one building stands out: the Vijećnica. The building was built in 1896, during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Vijećnica has had an eventful history: it was used as the old City Hall, then the National Library, until it was severely damaged during the Siege of Sarajevo when most of the books were destroyed.

Nowadays, Vijećnica is one of the  strongest symbols of Sarajevo . It has since been fully reconstructed and reopened in 2014. It is currently used for official political and cultural events.

You can buy a ticket at the door to visit the inside.

Emperor’s Mosque

The most impressive mosque located on the other side of the Miljacka river is the  Emperor’s Mosque . The Mosque is rather small compared to other mosques, but it stands out because of its unique design and beautiful colors.

The Emperor’s Mosque is open for visits outside of praying times, provided that you are dressed accordingly.

Have a beer at the iconic Sarajevska Pivara (the Sarajevo Brewery)

We left this recommendation for the end of Day 2 of the Sarajevo Travel Itinerary on purpose – we recommend going for a visit to the Brewery in the afternoon.

Visiting the Sarajevo Brewery was one of our favorite things to do in the city. When we went, the factory itself was closed for visits but they used to offer a tour, so you should definitely check if it is available during your visit.

Whether you do the tour or not, you can always have a beer at the  Sarajevo Brewery’s bar . We cannot recommend it enough! The atmosphere of the bar is so unique, it feels like stepping back in time as soon as you pass through the doors. It is a great spot for a happy hour drink.

To wrap up this second day of the Sarajevo itinerary, we recommend going out for dinner in the Old Town. Continue reading to see the restaurants we recommend.

Sarajevo Itinerary Day 3: Learn more about the city in its museums

The last day of this 3-day Sarajevo itinerary is dedicated to learning more about the history of the city and Bosnia in general. Sarajevo is full of museums and galleries so it can be a bit daunting trying to figure out which ones are worth going to. I am sure there are many of them worth your buck, but two of them deserve specific attention.

Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum

The Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum is one of the most interesting museums we have been to during our entire time in Bosnia. As the name suggests, the museum is about the story of the  Sarajevo War Tunnel , a tunnel built under the airport during the siege that was crucial for keeping the people and the city alive.

We won’t spoil too much about what you will see there, but the War Tunnel Museum is very interactive and very rich in history. It is definitely on the top of the list of things we recommend seeing in Sarajevo, regardless if you have only 2 or 3 days in town.

Visiting the Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum will take up a bit of your time because it is not located in the city center and it is not connected to any public transport. If you will not be traveling in your own rental car, the best way to get to the museum is to either organize the trip with a taxi or  go on a tour. The taxi company we used is called Crveni Taxi (number +387 033 760 600) and you can arrange for the driver to wait for you or come pick you up at a certain time.

Gallery 11/07/95 or Srebrenica Gallery

The second museum we strongly recommend visiting is the  Gallery 11/07/95 , located in the same square as the Sacred Heart Cathedral. This museum takes you on a journey via photos and videos through the Srebrenica massacre that happened on 11/07/95.

This is a very impactful museum, but it is very well made and it is a story that is worth knowing so it hopefully does not ever repeat itself. In addition to the main exhibition, they often have additional showings which vary throughout the year. You can expect to spend a couple of hours in the gallery as the exhibition is extensive.

Finish your day going up to Mount Trebevic

To wrap up your experience in Sarajevo, the last item on our list of best things to do is  go up to Mount Trebevic . Located on the opposite side of the river as the Yellow Fortress, from the top of Mount Trebevic you also get a nice overview of Sarajevo from a different angle.

You can go up by  cable car  or hiking (we recommend the first!). Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympic Games which was a big deal to the Bosnian people, they celebrate it until this day. One of the most iconic places during the 84 Games was the bobsled track built on top of Mount Trebevic. Nowadays, the track is abandoned but you can still walk through a part of it. It is now full of graffiti paintings.

——

This wraps up our recommendations of the  best things to do in Sarajevo in 3 days . We truly believe that if you follow our Sarajevo Itinerary, you will get to know the most important places in the city and learn many things about its history in the meantime.

Tours in Sarajevo

If you want to know more about Sarajevo, the best thing to do is get a tour as the guide will be able to give you insights from a local perspective, which is very unique.

These are the best options if you are looking for a tour to visit Sarajevo:

• Do a self-tour  by downloading the free app Guide2Sarajevo. It is provided by city tourism and will give you information on each site you visit. It is very useful.
• Book a guided tour   via Get Your Guide 
• Join the  Free Walking Tour  that happens every day in Sarajevo. They have a couple of different tour options – see which one you like best.

How many days do you need in Sarajevo?

We recommend staying  at least three full days  in Sarajevo if you really want to visit the best things the city has to offer.

Sarajevo is a large city, with a lot to see and do. You can still fit in most of the attractions listed in this Sarajevo Itinerary if you only have 2 days in the city but know you will be missing out on some of the things (especially the museums, which take time).

We visited Sarajevo during our road trip through Bosnia –  check here our full Bosnia itinerary .

What is the best month to visit Sarajevo?

The best months to visit Sarajevo are from April to October. During this time, temperatures are mild and the city is filled with things to do. The peak months for tourism are July and August, which is when the city is at its fullest. I recommend avoiding those months because it can get a bit too hot, so it is not that comfortable to walk outside all day.

My favorite month to visit Sarajevo is September , as it has the perfect summer-like weather and far fewer crowds than August.

If you’re planning a winter trip to Sarajevo, make sure you pack warm clothes as it gets really chilly. During the winter, you can combine your visit to Sarajevo with a ski trip as there are a few snow slopes around the city.

How to get to Sarajevo?

If you will be coming from abroad, the easiest way to get to Sarajevo is to fly into town via Sarajevo International Airport. Bosnia has three other airports that you can check for flight options – read more about them in our  Bosnia airport guide .

If you will be coming from one of the other Balkan countries, you can also prefer to drive to Sarajevo. This is what we normally do since we live in Slovenia. Read more about  how is it to drive in Bosnia and Herzegovina .

Need to rent a car for your trip? Get a quote here!

If those options do not suit your budget or schedule, check the options available for public transport (we often use  Omio  or  Rome2Rio  to check the best alternatives) or  book a tour to Sarajevo on Get Your Guide .

Do you need a car to move around in Sarajevo?

No, the great majority of things we recommended you to visit on this Sarajevo Itinerary can be  visited by foot . The Old Town and Baščaršija are very small, so you will rarely need a car or public transport. In fact, the only attraction on this list that you will not be able to walk to is the Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum.

Finding parking in the center of Sarajevo is not easy, especially for a foreigner. If you will be visiting Sarajevo with a vehicle, we recommend reserving an accommodation that offers a parking place. See some options below.

Where to stay in Sarajevo?

The best place to stay in Sarajevo is  close to the Old Town . This way, you can be sure that you will be able to explore the best attractions in the city on foot.

Here are our recommendations for places to stay in Sarajevo:

• Apartment Sanny : This is the place where we stayed during our last trip to Sarajevo and we can definitely recommend it. The apartment was perfect for 4 people, with two rooms and two bathrooms. The location was amazing and our friendly host let us keep the car in her personal covered garage, which was perfect.
• Hotel Story : A 4-star hotel located in the heart of Sarajevo. This hotel is a great option for couples and families, with great comfort and an impeccable location.
• Apartmani 071 : Simple and functional, perfect for couples. Located steps away from the Old Town, this accommodation offers free parking which is very convenient.

If you want to know more about the different neighborhoods, check out our  detailed guide on where to stay in Sarajevo !

Where to eat in Sarajevo?

No travel guide is complete without proper food recommendations, right?

Sarajevo has some of the  best and most affordable food  we have eaten during our Balkan adventure. Everywhere we stopped to eat, we were always so satisfied and surprised by the flavors – even if they were the simplest of places.

Here is our top list of places to eat in Sarajevo:

• Inat Kuća  – Our favorite restaurant for dinner. The atmosphere is amazing, we got a table right by the river, and the menu is filled with traditional Bosnian recipes. Everything we had was delicious.
• Željo 2  – This is the best place for having čevapi in Sarajevo. Čevapi is the traditional Bosnian barbecue (you can see it in the picture above) and you have to try it at least once while in the country.
• Čevabdžnica Nune  – Another great option for having čevapi, would be second on our list of preferences.
• Buregdžnica Bosna  – The best place in Sarajevo for eating burek, a traditional pastry-filled dish that is to die for. Our favorite ones are the meat and the potato (but you should ask for whatever is freshly made cause that will be the tastiest).
• Nanina Kuhinja  – Small but great place for eating typical Bosnian food. Located in the Old Town, it is one of the few places where you can get alcoholic beverages with your meal.
• Staklo  – If you are looking for a cheap and homemade meal, this place will be just right for you. It is easy to pass by it unnoticed because the front is very small but the food we had was amazing and incredibly affordable.

Where to go for a drink in Sarajevo?

When it comes to drinks, it is important to mention that in the Baščaršija region, most restaurants do not serve alcoholic beverages (with a few exceptions).

During our trip, these were our favorite places for having a drink in Sarajevo:

• Fabrikka Bar:  Located inside a small alley, this small bar serves amazing craft beer. The best thing about Fabrikka is that it is quite isolated so it is not as noisy as the other places. We loved the vibe here so much that we came back a couple of times in 3 days.
• Vučko Gastro Bar : Another great pub for having a happy hour drink in the afternoon.
• Sarajevo Brewery : If you want to have a local beer in style, there is no other place to go than Sarajevo Brewery.

Sarajevo is a great destination for those who want to experience Eastern European culture and history. With its mix of modern and traditional things to do, 3 days in Sarajevo are guaranteed to be full of memorable experiences. We highly recommend visiting the attractions mentioned above as well as exploring the city on foot.

Don’t forget to indulge in the amazing food and drinks Sarajevo has to offer! Enjoy your trip!

Organizing your trip

To help you plan your trip to Bosnia, we have put together our favorite planning resources: 

• Flights : Get affordable flights to Bosnia on  Skyscanner.com . 
• Travel insurance : Make sure you are protected during your trip. We use  VisitorsCoverage  whenever we are traveling abroad. 
• Renting a car : We always use  Discover Cars  to get the best car deals. 
• Accommodation : Find the best hotels and apartments on  Booking.com . 
• Activities : Get fun ideas of what to do and buy unique activities with  Get Your Guide.
• SIM Card : Stay connected during your trip with  Airalo.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. This means that we get a small commission from any purchase you make, at no additional cost to you!

Edin (Edo for friends like you) is the Slovenian half of Mauka. Even though Edo was born in Novo Mesto (Slovenia), he has Bosnian origins and has spent most of his life exploring the Balkan Region. Now, with Fernanda, he has expanded his travel borders to explore more of Europe, South America, and the rest of the world. He is the technical master behind the blog, but he also adventures as a writer when it comes to giving tips about destinations he is passionate about.

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Hi We would be grateful if you could guide us (a senior Muslim couple from Pakistan) how to spend four nights in Sarajevo in a mediocre budget, not missing most of the sites. A clean, pocket friendly place to stay. Please suggest expenditure per day in Dollars including food and transportation. We are planning to travel from Belgrade to Sarajevo by Bus. Conversion rate from US Dollar to local currency?

I would say that the blog nicely covers quite some things to do in Sarajevo, as an additional, 4th day, I would maybe suggest a day trip to Mostar or a day trip to Mostar, Blagaj and Konjic . You can read more about where to stay in Sarajevo in our dedicated post Where to Stay in Sarajevo in 2023 (All Budgets) where we give some ideas for different budgets and locations.

The expenditure depends a bit on where you will be eating, you can spend as little as 2-3$ for a meal or if you would like to have a nice dinner you can pay 15-20$ or more. Same goes for the transport, if you will be taking local trams the price will be less then a dollar per ticket, while taxis start at around 1.5$ to start and additional 0.75$-1$ per km.

Currently 1$ is worth 1.83 Bosnian Marka – I would suggest you always have some cash on you in local currency, as not all of the places will have options to pay with a card.

Hope you have a great stay in Sarajevo and Belgrade.

Best, Fe & Edo

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Complete Sarajevo Travel Guide: What to See in Bosnia & Herzegovina’s Charming Capital

This is going to sound very cliche, but I firmly believe that Sarajevo is one of the most underrated capitals in Europe. 

This Sarajevo travel guide will show you everything you need to know for a first-time visit, including how to get there, what to do in Sarajevo, where to stay, and much more. 

SARAJEVO CITY GUIDE

Perfect for … An unexpected weekend getaway – Poignant history – Energetic atmosphere – Coffeehouses and tea houses galore!

Known as the ‘Jerusalem of Europe,’ Sarajevo is a multicultural city where Islam, Christianity, and Judaism co-mingled for centuries. 

Thanks to its central location in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Sarajevo is an excellent base to start or end your trip. For example, it’s only a 2-hour journey to one of Bosnia’s most popular destinations, Mostar , and there are more than a dozen day trips available from Sarajevo (check out this post’s last section for the full list!) 

However, it’s totally understandable if you decide to stay in Sarajevo. The city’s calm and pleasant atmosphere is partially influenced by its numerous cafes and tea houses. Is there anything better than ordering a nice cup of Bosnian coffee and watching the world go by?

How many days do I need in Sarajevo?

Two days is a good start: You can spend one day exploring the city and another day at (what I call) ‘upper Sarajevo’ — taking a cable car up to Trebević Mountain and leisurely making your way back down with a stop at the Abandoned Bobsleigh Track.

Best of all, the city is fairly compact and you can explore the main tourist attractions in Sarajevo by foot.   

HOW TO GET TO SARAJEVO 

The city’s central location means that  you have many options in traveling to Sarajevo, especially from neighboring Balkan countries like Serbia, Croatia, Montenegro, and more.  

FROM NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES

From Serbia 

The most common way to travel from Serbia to Bosnia is between Belgrade to Sarajevo. If you’re planning to travel from one capital to the other, there are a few ways to do so:

BUS – There’s a direct bus from a few different companies, including Flixbus , and the journey takes about 8 hours (not counting time at the border).   

If you prefer not sitting on the bus all day, you can also take a 3-hour direct bus from Belgrade to Bijeljina (a city near the border), stay overnight, and take another 5-hour bus to Sarajevo. 

Pssst — If you stop in Bijeljina, be sure to visit Ethno Village Stanisici , an awesome village complex with traditional Bosnian houses from all over the country! 

CAR – The driving distance between Belgrade and Sarajevo is 300 km (186 mi), and takes about 5 to 6 hours depending on traffic. 

PLANE – Finally, there is a direct flight from Belgrade to Sarajevo. It’s less than an hour and served by Air Serbia. Check airline tickets from Serbia to Bosnia here . 

From Croatia 

BUS – Croatia has a ton of bus connections to Sarajevo. The easiest and most comfortable way of getting between the two countries is via Flixbus, which has routes from Rijeka, Split, Dubrovnik, Pula, and Zagreb to Sarajevo.  

CAR – The shortest way of traveling from Croatia to Sarajevo is from Split, which is around a 4 ~ 4.5 hour journey. There’s also the option to drive from Dubrovnik, which is a very popular route. The trip takes around 5 hours and passes through another famous city ( Mostar ). 

PLANE – There are flights from multiple Croatian cities, including Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, and Pula. However, only the flight between Zagreb to Sarajevo is direct, while those from other cities have a layover in Zagreb before proceeding to Sarajevo. Check airline tickets from Croatia to Bosnia here .

From Montenegro  

BUS – There are both direct and indirect buses from Montenegro to Sarajevo: the direct buses take about 8 hours (plus border crossing time), while the indirect buses typically stop in Mostar. 

CAR – Traveling from Kotor to Sarajevo by car takes about 4.5 to 5.5 hours, depending on traffic and border crossing time. 

PLANE – There are flights from both of Montenegro’s airports — Tivat and Podgorica — although they are not direct. 

FROM ELSEWHERE 

PLANE — Sarajevo is the country’s biggest airport and, as such, has many connections to European cities and beyond. There’s even an airport shuttle bus that will take you straight to Bascarsija (the city center) for 5 KM (2.50 EUR) — the timetable can be found on the airport’s official Facebook page .

BUS — If you’re taking a bus to Bosnia & Herzegovina, there’s a good chance you’ll end up here. :) 

However, it’s important to note that there are two bus stations in the city: the main one near the center is called Sarajevo Central Bus Station , while the other one is on the southern outskirts and called Istočno Sarajevo Bus Station . 

TRAIN — The city has its own train station called the Sarajevo Main Railway Station (Glavna željeznička stanica u Sarajevu). Even better, it’s just a few meters away from the central bus station! 

TRAVEL TIP: Be aware of taxi scams! Similar to most other countries in the Balkans, it’s best to watch out for unscrupulous taxi drivers. We arrived in Sarajevo via a (very long) bus ride from Belgrade and were very tired. 

TRANSPORTATION & GETTING AROUND SARAJEVO 

Sarajevo has all of the typical comforts of a capital city, including a comprehensive public transportation system. You can get around Sarajevo using a variety of methods, including buses, trolleys, taxis, and even the adorable trams that zigzag around the city. 

Here’s a quick primer on public transport in Sarajevo:

Taking the tram is one of the best (and easiest!) ways to get around Sarajevo. Although there are a handful of tram lines, the most important one for tourists is tram line #3. 

The route goes from east to west and covers nearly all of the important stops. If you’re planning to travel to the railway or bus station, tram lines #1 and #4 are also helpful in getting there. 

Last but certainly not least, Sarajevo has its own cable car system! There’s only one route, which takes you from Sarajevo’s city center to Mt. Trebevic. The ride takes about 9 minutes to reach the top, and uncovers beautiful views of the city’s skyline. The price is 15 KM (7.5 EUR) for a one-way ticket or 20 KM (10 EUR) for a round-trip ticket. 

I recommend buying a one-way ticket to the top and walking back down with a stop at the Abandoned Bobsleigh Track (Check out What To Do in Sarajevo for the full info!) 

Although most people associate taxis with higher costs, this isn’t the case in Sarajevo. There are a decent amount of taxis in the city, with most drivers hanging around the Old Town and other sights. A typical ride within the city should cost you a few KMs, and not more than 10 EUR. As mentioned above, be careful when taking a taxi from the railway or bus stations, as some drivers may try to inflate the price. 

For everything else, there’s the bus. :) 

WHAT TO DO IN SARAJEVO

Sarajevo is, in a sense, similar to other Balkan cities like Novi Sad (Serbia) or Plovdiv (Bulgaria). Although fairly compact, it offers the perfect mix of cultural landmarks, museums, touristy things to do, and a thriving cafe and foodie scene. 

If you’re still wondering what to see in Sarajevo, be sure to add the following places to your itinerary! 

Wander through Baščaršija   One of the best ways to familiarize yourself with Sarajevo is to take a walk through Baščaršija ( photo above ), the city’s cultural soul and historical center. There’s a reason why I recommend doing this first (it’s #1 on this list!) before you move onto the other tourist attractions in Sarajevo :) 

The area was originally the foundation for sarajevo back in the 1400s, and, after a few centuries, baščaršija is now a delightful mishmash of cobblestone alleys, hammams, traditional buildings, and hans (traditional inns). it’s the perfect place to hunt for a souvenir or two, or simply get lost amid the sounds of merchants haggling and clanking of coppersmiths. , stroll by the sebilj fountain speaking of baščaršija… don’t forget to take a photo with its superstar located in the center of the square, this ottoman-style fountain is a symbol of the city and a popular spot to people watch. , be dazzled at sarajevo’s city hall (gradska vijećnica sarajevo) just a few minutes south of baščaršija is a gorgeous orange and yellow building called the vijećnica, or none other than sarajevo city hall .

However, Sarajevo’s City Hall is much more interactive because you can go inside! It’s definitely worth paying the 10 KM (5 EUR) entry fee, as you’ll get access to the art gallery upstairs and a small exhibit on WWI on the basement floor. Of course, don’t forget to marvel at the building’s eclectic mix of neo-Moorish, romanticist, and historicist influences. 

The building was part of many important moments in history. In fact, Franz Ferdinand visited the city hall with his wife Sofia between the first and second assassination attempt on his life, which would later cause World War I. 

Nearly a century later, the building would be destroyed by shelling and a fire during the Siege of Sarajevo in 1992. Although some locals and librarians who worked at the city hall tried to salvage what was left, more than a million books, manuscripts, and other valuable publications were unfortunately destroyed.

After the war, the city hall was in disrepair for many years until 2014, when it was restored to its former glory and reopened to locals and visitors. Despite its hardships, the city hall is a symbol of hope and resilience for many Sarajevans.   

Learn About the City’s Heartbreaking History Although Sarajevo is an energetic and thriving city these days, it wasn’t always like this. During the 1990s, the city was subjected to horrible events that resulted in the Siege of Sarajevo. Over the course of nearly 4 years, the city faced constant shelling, sniper fire, and other atrocities before a ceasefire in 1996. 

Although the Bosnian War was more than three decades ago, there are still stark reminders around the city, from apartment buildings with bullet hotels to ‘Sarajevo roses’ (marks in the sidewalk filled with red resin, where mortar shells exploded). 

Likewise, there are a few museums to learn more about Bosnia’s history. The first three places can be done in a day, as they’re within a short walking distance from each other. 

📍 Museum Of Crimes Against Humanity And Genocide — This was the museum we chose to visit first and, to be honest, it was a very emotional experience. The Museum of Genocide is a collection of items that came from the war, including the personal belongings of victims, army mementos, and stories from survivors. 

📍 Galerija 11/07/95 — This museum/memorial/art gallery is more visual, with photographs and videos that specifically focus on the Srebrenica genocide (on July 11, 1995 — hence the name). 

📍 War Childhood Museum — One of the newest museums in Sarajevo is the War Childhood Museum, which is similar to the first museum but is told from the children who lived through the Bosnian War. 

📍 Tunnel of Hope — This museum / historical object is a bit farther than the other museums (it’s on outskirts of Sarajevo), but still worth a visit. Originally constructed at the beginning of the war, the Tunnel of Hope was the city’s only link to the outside world and used to funnel food, medical supplies, weapons, and other items to locals. 

Likewise, one of the most powerful ways to learn more about a place or event is by interacting with someone who has personally been there. Since the war was in the 1990’s, nearly every Sarajevo guided tour will have someone who personally lived through the war. Here are some excursions to consider: 

Times of Misfortune Half Day Tour in Sarajevo Sarajevo: Bosnian War and Fall of Yugoslavia Tour  Tunnel War Tour 

Abandoned Olympic Bobsleigh Track  Last but certainly not least is my personal favorite: Sarajevo’s Abandoned Bobsleigh Track! If you’re a fan of urbex (urban exploration), street art, or just unusual places, then be sure to add this spot to your itinerary. 

Did you know that Sarajevo was the host of the 1984 winter Olympics? There were many new venues and tracks built for the occasion, including the bobsleigh and luge track. The track was used for various events up until 1991, when the Bosnian War broke out. 

After the war ended, the entire area was reclaimed by nature and had overgrown branches (it is, after all, near the side of a mountain!), as well as various war wounds (i.e. holes from shelling). In 2014 the city conducted an extensive de-mining operation and the track became a canvas for local graffiti and mural artists.

WHERE TO STAY IN SARAJEVO ACCOMMODATIONS IN SARAJEVO 

Sarajevo has a diverse variety of accommodations, from classic hotels and hostels to chic apartments, vacation rentals, and guesthouses. In fact, similar to other Balkan countries , apartments and guesthouses are extremely popular and make up a good chunk of the accommodations in Sarajevo. 

Also, be sure to double and triple check the payment method before reserving your accommodation. As mentioned in my 17 Bosnia & Herzegovina travel tips post (point #6), a lot of places are cash-only and may cost you a trip to the ATM or currency exchange kiosk. WIth that in mind, let’s check out all of the cool places in Sarajevo! 

SARAJEVO HOTELS

İsa Begov Hamam Hotel — with its gorgeous mosaic exterior, color palette, and oriental details, Isa Begov certainly gets my vote as the most beautiful hotel in Sarajevo.

The Isa Begov is the oldest hamam in the city (it was built in the 1400s!), although the majority of the baths were damaged in the Yuguslav Wars. After the war ended, the destroyed building was rebuilt into a hotel and assimilated parts of the old bath house.

Nowadays, guests can get a glimpse of the Ottoman Empire in one of the 15 bespoke rooms and suites, featuring handmade furniture, comfortable beds, and complimentary access to the Turkish baths! WHERE TO BOOK : Booking.com | Agoda  

Heritage Hotel Gate of Sarajevo — The Gate of Sarajevo hotel is, like the name says, conveniently located on the edge of the city’s Old Town, which is perfect if you enjoy the quiet yet still want to be close to the tourist attractions. It’s an excellent choice if you have a car, as there’s free parking in front of the hotel and a gas station just a few meters away! WHERE TO BOOK : Booking.com | Agoda | Hotels.com

Ibis Styles — Modern design meets Bosnian motifs at Ibis Styles, which is decorated from head to toe (or rather, lobby to terrace) in traditional details. 

At the breakfast lobby guests can marvel at the ornate copper dishes, check out the colorful rugs and Vucko paintings in the lobby, or relax in style at the Bosnia-themed suites and rooms. WHERE TO BOOK : Booking.com | Agoda | Hotels.com

Villa Orient — Less than 100 meters from the famous Sebilj Fountain is this cozy hotel, which is actually a traditional Ottoman-style house! It has all the convenient comforts of a hotel, including complimentary breakfast, a 24-hour front desk, and spacious rooms. BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com

Hotel Hecco Deluxe — Located just a few meters from the city’s most prominent pedestrian street (Sarači), Hecco Deluxe is one of the best hotels in Sarajevo if you want to be in the center of all the attractions. 

For an even more ✨ deluxe ✨ stay, book one of the upper rooms, which have breathtaking views of Sarajevo’s skyline (and some even have balconies!) BOOK HERE: Booking.com | Agoda | Hotels.com

President — This sleek and upscale hotel is in Sarajevo’s city center and offers plenty of plush amenities like complimentary breakfast, parking, turndown service, and room service. 

BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com || Hotels.com  

Other great hotels in Sarajevo to consider:

🏨 Hotel Sana   🏨 Boutique Bristol   🏨 Hotel Platinum  

APARTMENTS & GUEST HOUSES

Apartments Salim — The 100 sq. m penthouse apartment is located in a quiet yet central neighborhood of the city (it’s only a 5-minute walk to the Latin Bridge) and has everything you need for a comfortable trip.

This place is perfect for families or groups (up to 6 guests!) thanks to the two double rooms and spacious couch, as well as a fully-stocked kitchen and living room. WHERE TO BOOK : Booking.com | Agoda  

Apartment Milk&Honey  — A colorful and charming loft-style apartment that features a quirky modern design, three bedrooms (great for families!), and a great location. BOOK HERE: Booking.com

Studio Apartment Theatre View — This cute studio is right in the center of Sarajevo and, like the name says, is across Sarajevo National Theatre. Foodies and art fans will especially love this place because it’s within steps of cafes, restaurants, galleries, museums, and much more. BOOK HERE: Booking.com | Agoda

Aparthotel Centar Sarajevo — Nestled in a quiet street on Skenderija (the area right across the river), you’ll have quick access to the center and enjoy the peace and quiet. 

This aparthotel is an excellent choice for groups or families, as it offers more than 20 different options, including studios; one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments; and penthouse suites! BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com || Hotels.com 

Prenociste Zan — Located right in the middle of Baščaršija (the historical old town), you’ll be in the center of all the action. Zan was one of the guesthouses where we stayed during our trip, and we loved it. The guest house is run by the sweetest mother and son team who also have a  cafe downstairs and give the best recommendations. :) BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com 

Other great apartments in Sarajevo to consider:

🏨 Bascarsija’s Sights 🏨 Residence Prime Luxury

SARAJEVO HOSTELS

It’s located near the center, has a clean and on-theme design, and, if you’re lucky, they even throw small parties from time to time. The hostel also has a nice variety of shared dorm rooms and private rooms, including 4- and 6-bed dorms, as well as private twin and double rooms.

Travel tip: Be sure to reserve early, as this hotel is popular and gets booked up very quickly! BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com || Hotels.com  

The Good Place Hostel — Nestled on the main pedestrian street of the city (Ferhadija), this small and cozy hostel is a great choice if you want to make friends (it has just a few beds) or chill out (there’s a huge relaxation area in front of the panoramic windows!) BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com  

Hostel Kucha — This adorable hostel is located in a quiet suburb of the city (just 700 meters from the center) and is one of the most budget-friendly hostels in Sarajevo — single beds start at only $10/night! 

Don’t miss the spacious and sunny terrace — a great spot to chill or work for digital nomads! BOOK HERE: Agoda || Booking.com || Hotels.com 

Pigeon Square Rooms— Cute, cozy, and inviting are just a few words to describe this guesthouse slash hostel. Located in the heart of the Old Town (with a gorgeous view of the Sebilj Fountain and square!), there are plenty of rooms to choose from, including 3- and 4-bed dorm rooms, as well as private double and twin suites. BOOK HERE: Booking.com | Agoda | Hotels.com

WHERE TO EAT IN SARAJEVO

🍽 Klopa — If you can go to only one restaurant in Sarajevo, let it be this one. This place gets top marks from me thanks to its fantastic service, delicious comfort food, and location (it’s right in the center!)

However, what really made our dining memorable was our waiter, who was friendly, hilarious, and had excellent recommendations. Thanks to his advice, we tried the menu of the day and had the most delicious chicken filet and steak ( above photo ) at a great price. 

🍽 Espresso Lab — If you miss your favorite coffee chain from Turkey, you’ll be happy to know that they’ve opened up shop here as well. :) 

🍽 Blind Tiger — What happens when you combine burgers and cocktails? This bar & restaurant! Blind Tiger was highly recommended by virtually every traveler that we met (and a few locals as well!). No wonder it’s a popular hangout spot — make sure to get here early, as it gets very popular in the evenings.

🍽 Caffe Bar ANDAR — Right in the middle of Sarajevo’s Old Town is this adorable hidden gem. Seriously — walk past and you might miss it! 

While here, you might notice that the cafe is decorated with shoes, shoe materials, and even wooden forms for making shoes. It’s not a coincidence — there’s a heartwarming story behind the cafe and its unique shoe theme, which you can read on the back of their menu. 

A sweet history, delightful owner, and a nice cup of Bosnian coffee — you can find it all here at ANDAR. :) 

Seriously, this is one of the best restaurants in Sarajevo — from the chic modern decor to the delicious and healthy dishes, Fit Bar is it. 

Bonus: the menu is so well thought out and has a ton of vegetarian choices, as well as allergy information, macros, and calories. Try the pressed juices, they’re amazing! 

🍽 Buregdzinica Sac — If you want to try an authentic Bosnian burek (or just want to try the best in the city!), then come to Sac. This hole in the wall specializes in burek and there’s always a line. Best of all, there’s about 7 or 8 different fillings to try, including meat, cheese, pumpkin, chicken, and more!

Located just 150 meters from Sac (above), Ćevabdžinica Zeljo is the most popular cevapi place in Sarajevo — and dare I say, the entire country! Be sure to visit very early in the day (or if you have plenty of time), as this place is always crowded with locals. The biggest portion (15 pieces) costs 10 KM (5 EUR), while the smallest (5 pieces) is only 3.5 KM (less than 2 EUR). 

🍽 Simidçe Sarajevo — If you’re missing the delicious taste of Turkish food, here’s your chance! 

As the name says, this recently-opened cafe has simit, as well as the famous Turkish breakfast (🤤), pastries, pizza, and other snacks. Besides stopping for breakfast, it’s also a great place to watch people feed the pigeons, as it’s right in front of the famous Sebilj Fountain. 

🍽 Ministry of Cejf — This is one of the most popular cafes in Sarajevo, and it’s no surprise why. A mix of hipster and local, the Ministry of Ćejf offers traditional coffee, soft drinks, and delicious desserts. Be sure to get a spot outside if you can, as it has a prime location for people watching.

Psst… Wondering what this cafe’s quirky name means? Click over to my 17 Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Tips for a quick primer on interesting local words and phrases! 

🍽 Four Rooms of Mrs. Safija —If you’re looking to try haute cuisine in Sarajevo, then this is for you! The Four Rooms of Mrs. Safija could easily pass as a Michelin restaurant thanks to its beautiful atmosphere, creative dishes, and attentive service. If you’re lucky, they might even have a 6-course tasting menu! 

Be sure to read the backstory of Mrs. Safija on their website. Although I didn’t quite get the plot, it’s still entertaining and a fun way to spend the time while waiting for your food. ;)

🍽 Gonul Kahvesi — Similar to Espressolab, Gonul Kahvesi is another Turkish franchise that has made its way to Sarajevo. This was one of our surprise finds, as we serendipitously discovered it while walking back from the Abandoned Bobsleigh Track (mentioned above in Things to Do).  

The cafe is located on a hill and offers a fantastic view of the entire skyline — there’s even a useful chart with the names and outlines of each building on the terrace. Besides the view, Gonul Kahvesi has a great choice of coffee, drinks, and snacks, along with friendly employees. 

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Sarajevo Travel Guide

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With their imaginations and travel memories fired by spiky minarets, grilled kebabs and the all-pervasive aroma of ground coffee, many travellers see in SARAJEVO a Slavic mini-İstanbul. The Ottoman notes in the air are most prominent in Baščaršija, the city’s delightful Old Town, which is home to umpteen mosques, bazaars, kebab restaurants and cafés. Further afield, burnt-out buildings evoke the catastrophic war of the mid-1990s, though the fun-loving, easy-going Sarajevans do a great job of painting over the scars of those tumultuous years – it’s hard to walk around without being offered coffee, and it’s hard to be invited for coffee without making friends.

Drinking and nightlife

Ferhadija and around, festivals in sarajevo, the latin bridge and 1878–1918 museum, “sniper alley” museums.

Sarajevo gained importance during Roman times, and after a short slumber was reinvigorated as a trading hub during the Ottoman period, but sadly its recent history is far more pertinent. The international spotlight fell on the city as the host of the 1984 Winter Olympics, but less than a decade later the world’s eyes were retrained on it during a siege that lasted for almost four years – by some estimates, the longest in military history. Bosnian Serb forces made a near-unbroken ring around the city, shelling major buildings and shooting civilians dead on their way to work, while years of litter lay rotting in the streets. When the ceasefire was announced in 1996, around ten thousand people had been killed; on the ground you may notice some of the many Sarajevo Roses – flower-like scars of mortar shell explosions, poignantly filled in with red resin, though now badly fading.

The central district of Baščaršija is Sarajevo’s prettiest and contains most of its sights. Heading west from here, the city’s history unravels like a tapestry – Ottoman-era mosques slowly give way to the churches and elaborate buildings of the Austro-Hungarian period, before communist behemoths herald your arrival into “Sniper Alley” and its shells of war.

Top image: Bascarsija square, Sebilj fountain © Boris Stroujk/Shutterstock

The city now has a fair few hostels, though many are unofficial, so be careful when booking. If you get stuck, dozens of agencies around Baščaršija will be able to set you up with a private room.

The powerful waft of grilled čevapi is a sure sign that you’re about to enter Baščaršija , whose pedestrianized streets are a delight to wander around, filled to the brim with cafés, snack stands and trinket stalls. It’s most logical to approach this district from the east, where you’ll find the once-glorious National Library . In 1992, a single day’s shelling destroyed over three million books, but reconstruction of this pink-and-yellow cream cake of faded beauty is now almost complete. A little way along is the central square, home to Sebilj , a small kiosk-like fountain, and Baščaršija Mosque . Far more beautiful is the Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque just down the way, which is worth a peep inside. Further west, you’ll come across the Bezistan , an Ottoman-era bazaar now sadly filled with all manner of fake goods unsuited to such an elegant structure.

Baščaršija is also home to the six buildings that make up the Museum of Sarajevo – by far the largest is located inside the old Bursa Bezistan bazaar, just off the main square, which features a whole host of historical relics, all beautifully presented.

Sarajevo has a fair few quirky underground bars, which come and go with alarming regularity, so ask around. Locals go out late – most bars only start filling up after midnight and kick on until 1 or 2am at least.

You can’t walk more than 10m in Baščaršija without coming across yet another ćevabdžinica – note that many do not serve alcohol. Burek is similarly easy to hunt down, and many travellers rate it the best in the Balkans.

Along and just off Ferhadija , the main pedestrianized thoroughfare, are several points of interest. Dominating the skyline just west of the Bezistan bazaar is the twin-turreted Catholic cathedral dating from the 1880s, while, just behind here, along Mula Mustafa Baseskije, stands the central market place . It was here, on February 5, 1994, that 68 people were killed following a mortar attack in what became the war’s single most infamous incident; a blood red wall is inscribed with the names of all those who died. Adjacent to the cathedral, the superb Galerija 11/7/95 is dedicated to the memory of the victims of the 1995 Srebrenica massacre.

Baščaršija Nights bascarsijskenoci.ba. Ballet, theatre, music and art exhibitions throughout July.

Jazz Fest jazzfest.ba . Excellent jazz festival, with some stellar names, usually held in November.

MESS mess.ba . International, English-centred festival of theatre in October.

Sarajevo Film Festival sff.ba . In August, this is now one of the most prestigious film festivals in Europe, and largely focused on the region’s own output.

Saravejo Winter sarajevskazima.ba. Artistic festival (music, film, visual and performing arts) each February.

Modest in appearance, the Latin Bridge has some weighty history behind it – this was the scene of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and, by extension, the start of World War I; a plaque on the wall indicates the exact spot where Ferdinand met his fate. Off its northern end, the small, one-room 1878–1918 Museum commemorates the incident, its most significant exhibits being the pistol used by the assassin, Gavrilo Princip, and the subsequent indictment against the perpetrators (there were seven in all). Across the Miljacka River you’ll see the fascinating Papagajka , a decaying yellow-and-green residential block apparently designed with hovercars in mind – this is how the Jetsons may have lived under Communism.

Most useful to travellers is a small area around Mula Mustafa Bašeskije, where you’ll find a couple of appealing markets – indoor and outdoor – and a few secondhand clothing stores. One recommended souvenir purchase is a Bosnian coffee set: while whole teams of Baščaršija stands sell cheap ones, Sprečo, at Kovači 15, offer beautiful hand-made copper-and-tin sets for around €30. Also try tracking down Butik Badem on Abadžiluk, which doles out superb Turkish sweets, dried mulberries, and a lot more besides.

Well worth the fifteen-minute walk west of Baščaršija is the Historical Museum . Don’t be put off by the somewhat brutal exterior and shabby entrance, as the permanent exhibition detailing how Sarajevo functioned during the siege is sobering and superbly presented. The exhibits and photos are frequently harrowing, though the most striking aspect is the remarkable resourcefulness Sarajevans displayed, manifest in some ingeniously improvised implements for cooking, lighting, heating and the like. On the other side of the main road stands the Holiday Inn , a distinctive yellow building that was the city’s only functioning hotel during the siege, and as home to foreign journalists was also one of its safest places.

Of even greater importance during the siege was the tunnel under the airport, part of which is now open as the Tunnel Museum which can be visited on daily tours. During the siege, Sarajevo’s UN-held airport was the only break in the city’s surrounding ring of Serb forces – an 800m-long tunnel dug underneath the runways provided, for most locals, the only way into or out of the city. At the museum, you’ll be played a home-movie-style DVD that describes the tunnel’s creation, and the reasoning behind it, before being led through a small section of the now-collapsed route.

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• Where to stay
• Travel advice

• 1.1 History
• 1.2 Orientation
• 1.3 Climate
• 2.1 By plane
• 2.2 By train
• 2.5 By thumb
• 3.1 On foot
• 3.2.1 By tram
• 3.2.2 By bus
• 3.3 By bicycle
• 3.4 By taxi
• 3.5 By shared electric scooter
• 4.1 Baščaršija
• 4.2.1 History and archeology
• 4.2.2 War memorials
• 4.3 Administrative buildings
• 4.4.1 Islamic
• 4.4.2 Christian
• 4.4.3 Jewish
• 4.5.1 Goat's Bridge
• 4.6 Vratnik
• 4.7 Olympics
• 5.1 Recreation parks
• 6.1 Baščaršija
• 6.2 Shopping malls
• 7.1.1 City centre around the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque
• 7.1.2 City centre around the Vječna vatra memorial
• 7.2 Mid-range
• 7.3 Splurge
• 9.2 Mid-range
• 9.3 Splurge
• 11.1 Emergency services
• 12 Stay healthy
• 14.1 Embassies

Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina , and its largest city, with 420,000 citizens in its urban area (2013). Sarajevo metropolitan area that has a population of 555,000 also includes some neighbourhoods of "East Sarajevo" that are a part of Republika Srpska . Sarajevo is very tourist friendly, especially pedestrian area in the Old Town in the centre of the city.

Understand [ edit ]

History [ edit ]

Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting and diverse cities in this part of Europe. It is a place where the Western and Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It is both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace through multicultural tolerance. The city is traditionally known for its religious diversity, with Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Catholics and Jews coexisting here for centuries. Additionally, the city's vast historic diversity is strongly reflected in its architecture. Parts of the city have a very Central-European look, while other parts of the city, often blocks away, have a completely distinct Ottoman, some Soviet-like or Socialist modernism feel.

Some important events in Sarajevo's history include the 1914 assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which led to World War I ; the 1984 Winter Olympics; and the 1992-1996 siege.

The city has physically recovered from most of the damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of 1992–1995, although bullet holes can still be found in some buildings. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to explore. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, Serbs or anyone else. There is little street crime, with the city ranking as one of the safest in Southeastern Europe.

Orientation [ edit ]

The city of Sarajevo stretches west–east along the river Miljacka; the main arterial road and tram routes tend to follow the west–east orientation. It is set in a narrow valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides.

Most tourists spend a lot of time in Old Town ( Stari Grad ). The eastern half of Old Town consists of the Ottoman-influenced Bascarsija ( BAHS CHAR she ya ; etymologically baš (head, main), čaršija (bazaar, trading area) in Turkish), while the western half showcases an architecture and culture that arrived with Austria-Hungary, symbolically representing the city as a meeting place between East and West.

• 43.85935 18.43049 1 Tourist Information Centre , Sarači 58 , ☏ +387 33 580 999 , [email protected] . ( updated Sep 2017 )
• [ Visit Sarajevo
• "Sarajevo Navigator" is an online guide magazine in English and Bosnian, the latest issue being March 2019.

Climate [ edit ]

Sarajevo has a humid continental climate, since mountains surrounding the city greatly reduce the maritime influence of the Adriatic Sea. Summers are typically hot (record high of 41 °C in 2008) with an average of 46 days per year above 32 °C, while winters are snowy and cold with an average 4 days per year below -15 °C. Rain can be expected in every season, with an average of 75 days of precipitation per year, which in winter often falls as snow.

Get in [ edit ]

By plane [ edit ]

This is Bosnia's principal airport, hemmed in by mountains and fog-prone, so flight delays are common in winter. The only passenger terminal is Terminal B; it's closed overnight 23:00–05:00. In the groundside main hall (after customs on arrival, before security on departure) there are currency exchange booths, car rental desks, a bookshop that sells local SIM cards, and a fast food area upstairs; there's no luggage storage. Airside is small, with a cafe and duty free shops accepting major currencies. New terminal facilities are under construction, to open in 2021. About 1 km away, walkable by the route to the trolleybus (below) then keep straight on, is the East Bus Station for destinations in Republika Srpska.

The most important hub connections are from Frankfurt (by Lufthansa), Vienna (by Austrian), Istanbul (by Turkish Airlines), Dubai (by flydubai) and Doha (by Qatar Airways) as well as flights to neighbouring countries (Belgrade by Air Serbia and Zagreb by Croatia Airlines) amongst others. Service to London-Luton is operated by Wizz Air, and to London-Stansted from April to October.

While you're at the airport, consider visiting the Tunnel of Hope Museum ( Tunel Spasa ). This saves you a trip from city centre later on, though you'll probably have to drag your luggage along. The museum is southside of the runway (the terminal being north), which they tunnelled beneath in 1993 to create a lifeline to the besieged city.

Getting there and away :

• By bus – Centrotrans bus runs daily between airport and Baščaršija in city centre. It runs roughly hourly 05:30-22:00, timed to connect with flights, taking 20-30 mins. A one-way ticket is 5 KM, return 8 KM, the first bag (up to 23 kg) per person is included and each extra bag is 5 KM. You pay on boarding the bus. It stops on request at central bus stops, which may not be specifically marked for the airport bus but they're usually next to tram stops.
• By taxi – Taxis are notorious for scams! To the city centre should not exceed 20 KM, although some drivers try for double that from foreigners. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km for 6–7 km; any "airport supplement" is bogus. Some drivers will refuse to use the meters; insist on them, and if they don't, then walk away. One scam is to wave a "fixed price list" at you, but it's just the product of a greedy imagination. Your hotel may offer an airport transfer, with rates varying from the competitive to the silly. A further option is to walk through Dobrinja as described below to pick up a taxi, though the saving on an honest fare is small.
• By trolleybus – This involves a walk of 600 m through the nearby neighbourhood of Dobrinja to reach the stop on Bulevar Mimara Sinana. You might want a map or a compass: the general direction is northeast with the terminal directly behind you, but it involves a zigzag. You exit the airport at the main gate onto Kurta Schorka highway. Turn right (southeast) and walk 200 m, there's no sidewalk. Take the first left, Andreja Andrejevića, and cut through residential Dobrinja passing near Hotel Octagon. Emerge onto the main road and turn right (again southeast) along Bulevar Mimara Sinana. On the opposite side (with westbound traffic) after 200 m, before you reach Mercator Center, is the bus stop Dobrinja škola B. Trolleybus 103 runs every 6 – 7 minutes daytime to Trg Austrijski, in the centre on the south riverbank, taking 25 min; walk across the Latin Bridge to come into Old Town. (Don't take the 107 or 108 if you're aiming for Old Town.) The fare is 1.80 KM, pay the driver, and note there are frequent ticket inspectors.

Tuzla Airport is another way in, as it has budget flights by Wizz from across Germany and Scandinavia. The airport is 120 km north of Sarajevo. An airport bus runs direct from Sarajevo to meet the Wizz flights, taking 2 hours and costing €22 each way. Or you can travel via the frequent standard buses to Tuzla, taking a leisurely 3 hours.

By train [ edit ]

• 43.86028 18.39904 2 Sarajevo Railway Station ( Nova željeznička stanica ), Put života 2 ( near Avaz Twist Tower ), ☏ +387 33 65 53 30 . This communist-era station is in a dilapidated state, with few trains and lots of down-and-outs, though it's reasonably central in this strung-out city. The ticket office is cash only and they laboriously write out tickets by hand, so service is slow. There are toilets and cafes. Staff at the information desk speak good English and their stock reply to many enquiries is to try the bus station next door: this is good advice. ( updated Jul 2019 )

There are no international trains to Bosnia: Coming from the west, the work-around route is to travel first to Zagreb in Croatia. From Zagreb main station ( Glavni Kol ) take the local train at 09:00 to Hrvatska Kostajnica, arriving by 10:45: see Croatian Railways timetable. The fare's about €8. You're now 3 km from the Bosnian borderpost, either take a taxi, or walk south into town then east and cross the river by the first bridge. Once you've entered Bosnia, find a taxi to Banja Luka , 100 km southeast, costing around 100 KM and taking maybe 90 mins. You'll reach Banja Luka in plenty of time to catch the 15:49 local train to Sarajevo via Zenica , arriving by 20:41. The train is a modern Spanish Talgo and the fare is about 26 KM. When checking the Bosnian Railways website , use the timetable menu not the ticket menu, as the latter only offers the main towns and bookable trains.

For the reverse journey, be on the 10:15 train from Sarajevo to Banja Luka in order to make the 19:15 from Hrvatska Kostajnica and reach Zagreb at 21:00. And confirm that your taxi driver has agreed to take you to the correct Kostajnica on the Croatian border (ie north-west, a printed map may help), not accidentally-on-purpose to some other Kostajnica, e.g. the one 80 km east near Doboj.

The only other railway route you're likely to get in by is Čapljina - Mostar - Sarajevo, with only two trains a day, departing from Sarajevo at 07:15 and 16:49 and taking around 2 hours to reach Mostar. Since 2015 there are no passenger trains south of Čapljina into Croatia and the port of Ploče (which has transport to Dubrovnik, Split and the Adriatic islands), though the line is still open for freight.

If your accommodation is in the west of the city, e.g. the Ibis Styles Hotel, then coming from Banja Luka you could change at Zenica for the local train to Sarajevo, which also stops at 43.851682 18.346417 3 Alipašin Most on Safeta Zajke. But it doesn't save much time or effort. The trains from Čapljina and Mostar trundle through this station without stopping.

By bus [ edit ]

There are two bus stations in Sarajevo, Main Station for most long-distance services and East Station for Serbia and towns in Republika Srpska.

On all intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage, usually 1 KM or €1 per piece. The driver will insist on exact change in one or the other currency pretty much at random, and then get picky about the denomination of the exact change you give him.

Major bus routes within the country are to Tuzla (hourly, taking 3 hours, fare 11 KM), to Mostar via Konjic and Jablanica (hourly, taking 2 hours 30 min, fare 14 KM) and to Banja Luka via Zenica (every couple of hours, taking 3 hours, fare 11 KM.)

• 43.82377 18.35649 5 East Bus Station ( Autobuska stanica Istočno / Lukavica ) ( away west, thanks to the bitter geography and politics of this region ). It's in East Sarajevo in Republika Srpska, and the route from central Sarajevo has to sweep west to get round the hills then approach south then eastwards near the airport. It has better connections to Serbia than Main Station; both stations have buses to Montenegro. The main services are to Belgrade , Novi Sad , Herceg Novi and Nis and also Zvornik for stop-over connection to Srebrenica . Routes within the country are to Bijeljina, Kalinovik and Trebinje not far from Dubrovnik. ( updated Mar 2023 )

To reach East Station, take trolleybus 103 from Austrijski Trg to the end and then walk for 400 meters, or a taxi for around 15 KM. There are no controls to cross into Republika Srpska, it's just like crossing any internal border. There's not much at the station except a ticket counter and the obligatory cafe/grill. Travellers reported harassments by a drunk guy hanging around at the east bus station (see e.g. Google Maps Reviews).

Sarajevo East Station asks you to pay a station tax which is 1 KM per person (for online tickets). Insist on your receipt that indicates the 1 KM as the staff usually tries to scam tourists and keep the money for themselves or asks for twice the price.

East Sarajevo has cafes, shops and ATMs, e.g. in TOM shopping centre 200 m southwest along Radomira Putnika.

By car [ edit ]

The main route from the west is past Zagreb east on E70, then south on E661 to enter Bosnia and towards Banja Luka thence Sarajevo via the A1 highway from Zenica. You can also reach the city from the East via the suburbs of Ilidža or from the north via M18/A1 from the direction of Tuzla.

By thumb [ edit ]

Hitching is easy to moderate, though make sure your sign is in the local language. Sarajevo is a long, thin city: if you can't get a lift into the centre, at least get yourself dropped by the tram tracks.

Get around [ edit ]

Sarajevo is a medium-sized, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is always possible, but much less so if you have a map; however, getting lost in Bascarsija's winding streets can be part of the fun, and may reveal some interesting surprises.

Very good free maps can be obtained from the tourist information office, shopping centres and hotels. Some bookshops may also sell printed maps of the city. Map apps on a smartphone are particularly useful.

Asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People might not know the names of streets a block from the building they've lived in all their lives. Taxi drivers can't be expected to find anything other than the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian; showing the driver on your map may be necessary.

Avoid driving in the Old Town. The steep and narrow streets, with a one way system, means you are likely to get lost and possibly damage your car. Also, it is next to impossible to find a parking spot.

Otherwise, a car might be invaluable to reach the sights farther away from the city center, especially East Sarajevo which belongs to Republika Srpska.

On foot [ edit ]

In Sarajevo, street signs are few and far between, and small and on the sides of buildings too far away to see when you're standing on a street corner. Building numbers are more or less consecutive. The city is mostly walkable, especially the city centre and the part of the city which is built on the slopes of Mt. Trebević.

By public transport [ edit ]

By tram [ edit ].

Sarajevo's tram network operated by KJKP GRAS [dead link] is among the oldest in Europe, and it looks it. A single line runs east from Ilidža passing within 2 km of the airport: an extension to the airport has been planned and intermittently constructed since the 1990s. It runs up the middle of the main highway into the city, with a spur north (Trams 1 & 4) to the main railway and bus stations. At Marijin Dvor it divides into an anti-clockwise loop, same direction as the traffic flow. All trams go east along Hiseta and the riverbank through Baščaršija (Old Town) as far as City Hall. Here they loop to return west along Mula Mustafe Bašeskije (a few blocks north of the river) and Maršala Tita to Marijin Dvor. Only Tram 3 runs the entire line out to Ilidža, the others go part route, e.g. the 1 & 4 terminate at the railway station. The length of the route is around 12 km. Old trams from Amsterdam were donated to Sarajevo and can still be seen touring the city, with the Dutch stickers still on it.

Buy tickets in advance from kiosks labeled tisak, duhanpromet, inovine on the street (1.60 KM) or from the driver, where they cost slightly more (1.80 KM, paid in cash). Validate your ticket immediately on boarding: it's only good for one trip, with no transfers. A day card for unlimited travel on all local public transport in Zone A costs 5 KM. There are frequent ticket inspections: if you can't reach the validator because the tram is too crowded, then don't board. If you are caught without a valid ticket, you will be escorted off and fined 26.50 KM.

You would only use these for the few sights or accommodation well off the tram route, e.g. the airport and nearby Tunel Spasa, (see "Get in"), Sarajevo East bus station or Vratnik district east of the centre, Buses 51, 52 or 55.

Bus tickets are always bought at the driver for 1.40 KM. You can not use pre-bought tram tickets in busses.

The planned departures of busses and trams can be found in the Moovit app ( iOS , Android ).

By bicycle [ edit ]

Only for seasoned urban cyclists: Sarajevo traffic is as hostile to cyclists as it is to fellow-motorists, only with worse results.

Nextbike has a bike rental scheme here and in Tuzla. First you need to register and pay a 20 km deposit, easiest done online. It may take 24 hours to activate but if you're already registered with them in another country, you should be good to go. There are 14 pick-up / docking stations all along the tram lines out to Dobrinja near the airport, their map shows real-time availability. The first 30 mins per day are free, a further 30 mins cost 1.50 KM.

By taxi [ edit ]

Taxi scams are common especially at the main train & bus stations and the airport. Try to avoid using taxis when possible, as even supposedly legitimate operators can scam. Know roughly what the honest fare should be, and insist on them using the meter. All legitimate taxis have a "TAXI" sign on top, licence plates with "TA", and have a meter. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km, plus maybe 1 km for luggage, so a trip between Baščaršija and airport shouldn't exceed 20 KM. Pay in cash, the driver will issue a receipt upon request. Some official operators are

• Paja Taxi 1522 or ☏ +387 33 15 22
• Žuti (Yellow) Taxi ☏ +387 33 66 35 55
• Samir & Emir Taxi 1516
• Holand Taxi tollfree 0800 2023

The best way to find a reputable Taxi is to ask a local person you trust which one they would use. Ownership and management of official operators can change frequently.

By shared electric scooter [ edit ]

Renting an electric scooter is available in Sarajevo like in many other European cities. You can use the app BeeBee to access them.

See [ edit ]

With the exception of the Tunnel Museum and the Bosna spring, all landmarks are in or within walking distance of Old Town. Several walking tours are available, a free/tip based walking tour starts every day at 10:30 at the crossing of Gazi Husrev begova street and Mula Mustafa Baseskija street (address: Velika Avlija 14) and covers most of the Baščaršija.

The municipality of Sarajevo provides an app called "Guide2Sarajevo" (Android, ios). It contains a map with sights and restaurants as well as several themed routes to walk in the city (ranging from 2 to 6 hours) on which you use your phone as audio guide (works even without mobile internet, because the files are downloaded on installation). It's remarkably well made.

Baščaršija [ edit ]

Baščaršija is the historic district of Sarajevo. The cobbled streets, mosques and oriental-style shops at the heart the city feel like a world away from Europe when the call to prayer starts. You could be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church or a synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time. In this old bazaar you can find dozens of shops selling copperware, woodwork and sweets. Many historic monuments are situated around Gazi Husrev-begova street.

Museums [ edit ]

Sarajevo has numerous museums on a variety of topics. The museums can offer an air-conditioned refuge from heat during Sarajevo's hot summers, or a place to warm up in the chilly winter months.

History and archeology [ edit ]

War memorials [ edit ].

Scars from the Bosnian War can still be seen in many parts of the city, as bullet holes in walls or abandoned buildings. The unresolved conflict (see box The Yugoslav Wars ) left traumatic memories, and museums and memorials associated with the Bosnian War are scattered around the city.

• Sarajevo Roses are scars left in the concrete from mortar blasts during the Siege of Sarajevo, filled with red resin. Around 200 can be found throughout the city.
• ICAR Canned beef monument In the vicinity of the National Museum and the Bosnian Historical museum. A giant can of beef meant as a sarcastic sneer at inadequate help from the European community during the siege. The infamous canned beef was inedible, and according to popular legend even refused by stray cats and dogs. The city was also supplied with 20 years out-of-date rations from the Vietnam war, and pork for a muslim-majority population.

• Cemeteries: those who died in the 1990s war were buried in pre-existing cemeteries. In these you find old Ottoman turbe , Austro-Hungarian dignitaries, casualties of two World Wars, Yugoslav citizens - and then row upon row upon aching row of simple white marble stones for people in their twenties slain in the latest conflict.

Art [ edit ]

• The grandiose Academy on the south bank facing Festina Lente bridge was originally a church, built in 1899 to Karl Pařík's design. It's now the Academy of Performing Arts within the University of Sarajevo, but no longer fit for purpose and they plan to move elsewhere. So just admire the facade.

Administrative buildings [ edit ]

Religious buildings [ edit ]

Islamic [ edit ].

Christian [ edit ]

• The Franciscan Monastery ( Franjevački samostan na Bistriku ) next to the church was built in 1894, also in Gothic Revival style and designed by Karel Pařík. It's still a monastery and therefore seldom open to visitors, but its collection of paintings, sculptures, organ, manuscripts and books are occasionally put on view.

Jewish [ edit ]

The Jewish population was first established in 1492-97 when Sephardic Jews fled the Inquisition in Spain and Portugal, and settled here and in other Ottoman cities. The Ashkenazi Jews mostly arrived during Austro-Hungarian rule in the late 19th century. Inter-community relations were mostly amicable and the population was relatively unharmed by the First World War, collapse of Austria-Hungary and formation of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. By 1940, their numbers peaked at around 14,000, 20% of the city population. In 1941 the Nazis invaded, placing the country under the control of the Croatian Ustaše , who vigorously set about the deportation and extermination of minority groups. Those who could, fled to the west, and after the war most exiles remained abroad. Some 2000 Jews did remain or return, but when the 1990s civil wars broke out, there was a mass evacuation to Israel of Jews living in former Yugoslavia. Fewer than 1000 remain in Bosnia and Herzegovina today, perhaps half of them in Sarajevo.

Ottoman bridges [ edit ]

During Ottoman rule of Sarajevo, 13 bridges were built over the Miljacka River and Bosna River. Four stone bridges remain: the Latin Bridge , the Šeher-Čehajina Bridge , the Goat Bridge and the Roman Bridge .

Goat's Bridge [ edit ]

The bridge had an important ceremonial function, as it served as the place where each Ottoman vizier was welcomed by the previous vizier and citizens of Sarajevo. The bridge is constructed from white marble, has a single arc with two circular apertures, and is 42 m long and 4.75 m wide. The span of the main arc is 17.5 m. According to the legend, before the bridge's existence, a poor shepherd noticed his goats sniffing on a shrub along the Miljacka River. Upon inspecting the shrub, he found a treasure with golden coins, which he used to finance his own education. After he became wealthy and influential, he had the bridge constructed at the shrub where his goats found the treasure, which gave the bridge its name. The truth in the legend was lost in history, but the bridge was almost certainly built between 1565 and 1579, a time when the road network underwent major infrastructure upgrades under reign of Mehmed-paša Sokolović.

If you came to the bridge on the cycle/pedestrian path along the river by foot, you can continue the road after the goat bridge uphill to Vakuf Isa-bega Ishakovića (a view point) and then few hundred meters further on the cycle path to Pale turn right to Jarčedoli . Once you reached the 43.85409 18.44804 50 top of the hill , you'll have majestic views over Sarajevo, especially the hills and ruins on the opposite site.

From there follow many stairs and narrow streets down to Alifakovac which ends at the city hall.

Vratnik [ edit ]

In the 17th century conflict between Austria-Hungary and the Ottoman Empire, the decisive battle came at Zenta (now in Serbia) in 1697, when the Ottomans were routed, and their grip on central Europe was broken. The Austro-Hungarian forces then devastated Sarajevo before marching home. Further attacks were likely so a fortified city was built here 1727–1739, east of the old centre of Baščaršija. Later suburbs surrounded it, and the name Vratnik (probably meaning "gates") applies to this wider district, but the sights of interest are all in the Vratnik redoubt.

From Baščaršija either walk up Kovači past the war cemetery onto Jekovac and Carina (Buses 51, 52 & 55 run this way); or follow the river upstream taking the right fork just before the road goes into a tunnel, then ascend right for White Fortress or left for Yellow Fortress.

• Jajce Kasarna are Austro-Hungarian barracks 200 m east of Yellow Fortress. They're derelict and unsafe to enter.

Olympics [ edit ]

Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympic Games . These (officially the XIV Olympic Winter Games) were the first held in a socialist state, although Moscow had hosted the 1980 Summer Olympics. Some structures remaining from that era are in a sorry state.

Do [ edit ]

• Cable car ( From Franjevačka south of the river, a short walk over the river from the City Hall. ). M-Tu 10:00-20:00; W-Su 09:00-20:00 . Restored in 2018, this cable car runs up to the former 43.83979 18.44876 58 Ski Station –Though, a little oberpriced. Nice views hilltop strolls and a decent cafè. Forest paths lead to the Pino Hotel (accessible by road, e.g. drive or taxi) and the pictureque and Instram-heavy Trebevic Bobsled Track which mad off-road bikers hurtle down, and which is being restored for winter sports. It makes sense walking one direction to see the bobsled track, and using the cable car the other direction, since the slide is pretty much between the Ski Station and city. 20 KM return, 15 KM one-way (locals pay less than a third) . ( updated Mar 2023 )
• Fox in a Box , Sime Milutinovica 15/I ( Next to Museum of Literature & Performing Arts, off Zelenhi berekti ), ☏ +38 761 10 10 07 , [email protected] . 09:30-22:30 . Escape room games. In "Mr Fox's Secret Study", you try to escape from the office by solving riddles. In "The Bank Job", you try to steal diamonds from the bank safe, in the dark by torch. In "The Bunker", you try to avert an accidental nuclear war. 60 KM . ( updated Jul 2019 )

Recreation parks [ edit ]

• Sarajevo City Centre mall has a large play area for children. BBI Centar a smaller one. Both malls are slightly west of the city centre on the main road.

Sports [ edit ]

• 43.82769 18.311064 9 Ilidza Thermal Riviera ( Termalna rivijera Ilidža ), Butmirska Cesta 18, 71211 Ilidza ( behind the airport, 5 minutes walk from Ilidza tram station ), ☏ +387 33 771-000 . 09:00-22:00 . Water park with several indoor and outdoor swimming pools, wave pool, massage amenities and water slides. Slightly outdated infrastructure, but the natural sulphur rich water makes up for it on hot summer days. Sauna and fitness centre available at the adjacent Hotel Hills. Basic entry 9 KM, extra for wellness & fitness centres . ( updated Mar 2018 )

• From May to August there are white-water rafting trips down the river Neretva. The usual base for trips is Konjic midway between Sarajevo and Mostar. Operators who do package day-trips from Sarajevo include Sarajevo Funky Tours , Sarajevo Insider , Meet Bosnia Travel and Balkland . These cost about 100 KM including transport and lunch.
• See Sarajevo Region for the ski resorts of Jahorina, Bjelašnica and Igman, all about 35 km away.

Events [ edit ]

Sonar compiles the city's regular calendar of events.

• Nights of Baščaršija: throughout July the old town centre has theatre performances, classic and rock music concerts and folklore dances. Various locations but concentrated around Ćemaluša.

Buy [ edit ]

Most shopping centres and upscale restaurants accept credit cards. Small cafés, clubs and souvenir shops mostly require cash, but might jib at notes larger than 20 KM.

• 43.86712 18.41071 2 Pijaca "Ciglane" . Interesting local market where you won't find any tourist. ( updated Mar 2023 )

In addition to the usual types of souvenirs, such as key rings, are more distinctive carpets and copperware, not all of which are locally made. Over a century ago, each street in this area hawked a specific ware: for example, one street had all the coppersmiths, shoes were on another, jewellery on another. An underground souk (open 08:00-20:00) stretches along the west side of Gazi Husrev-begova street. Prices are generally fixed, and so whilst haggling for a 4 KM keyring is pointless it may be possible for bulk purchases or the odd 2,000 USD carpet.

• Isfahan Gallery , Saraći 77 ( inside Morića Inn ), ☏ +387 33 237 429 , [email protected] . Persian carpet seller inside the Morića Inn. The handcrafted carpets are pricey, but the setting inside the reconstructed inn is worth a visit. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.858564 18.418458 4 Sahinpasic , 38d Titova , ☏ +387 33 220-112 . Has a decent collection of historical literature.  
• 43.85894 18.43061 5 Baklava Shop Sarajevo , Ćurčiluk Veliki 56 ( on the northern side of Brusa Bezistan ), ☏ +387 61 267 428 . A wide selection of baklava in many flavours (walnut, almond, hazelnut, pistachio, etc.), where the baklavas containing orah (walnut) are considered to be the most traditional ones. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.85923 18.43151 6 Kazandžiluk Street . The street is named after Sarajevo’s master coppersmiths, featuring shops such as Sakib Baščaušević and Aganovic. ( updated Sep 2017 )

Shopping malls [ edit ]

Sarajevo offers numerous shopping malls, the most notable being the Sarajevo City Center in the commercial district. Most shopping malls in Sarajevo have been newly constructed or renovated, and offer a modern shopping experience to those who can stand the annoying pop music they play all day long.

• 43.85641 18.40593 8 Alta Shopping Center , Franca Lehara 2 ( across the street from the Sarajevo City Center ), ☏ +387 33 953-800 . M-Sa 09:00-22:00, Su 10:00-20:00 . Shopping centre in the commercial district of the city, with 70 stores. Famous for the Lego store inside. ( updated Aug 2017 )
• 43.85831 18.41663 9 BBI Center , Trg djece Sarajeva 1 ( across the street from Veliki Park ), ☏ +387 33 569-990 . M-Sa 08:00-22:00, Su 08:00-22:00 . Second largest shopping centre in Sarajevo, after the City Center with 125 stores. It won the ICSC European Shopping Centre Awards in 2011. ( updated Aug 2017 )
• 43.847 18.37427 10 Bosmal City Center , Milana Preloga 12A , ☏ +387 33 725-180 . Shopping centre on the south bank of the river with 50 stores. ( updated Aug 2017 )
• 43.8549 18.3998 11 Importanne Center , Zmaja od Bosne 7 , ☏ +387 33 266-295 . 07:00-23:00 . Smaller shopping mall with around 35 stores. ( updated Aug 2017 )
• 43.8572 18.3843 12 Mercator , Ložionička 16 . One of the oldest shopping malls in Sarajevo with around 35 stores. ( updated Aug 2017 )
• Grand Centar Ilidža , Butmirska cesta 14 , ☏ +387 33 629020 . M-Sa 08:00-22:00; Su 08:00-21:00 . Ilidža shopping centre with 33 stores is by the #3 tram terminus and Thermal Spa. ( updated Aug 2017 )

Money [ edit ]

The local currency is konvertibilna marka (KM, Convertible Mark , international abbreviation BAM), fixed at €1 = 1.95583 KM (~1 KM = €0.51)), and is used throughout the country. Informally, restaurants may accept euros at €1 = 2 KM. The odd rate is because the Convertible Mark was originally pegged 1:1 against the Deutsche Mark, which was replaced with the euro at that rate.

There are many banks along Maršala Tita at the north boundary of Old Town, usually open M-F 08:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-13:00. Money can also be exchanged at any post office or at currency exchange booths, which stay open till 21:00: as always take care to check both the exchange rate and level of commission.

Eat [ edit ]

It is said in Bosnia that some people eat to be able to drink, others eat to be able to live and work, but true Bosnians work and live to eat. A lot of attention is devoted to the preparation and consumption of food in Sarajevo. Gastronomy in the city was developed under Eastern and Western influences, and Bosnian cuisine focuses on local produce like meat, vegetables, fruits and dairy products. For information on typical Bosnian foods, see Bosnia#Eat .

Budget [ edit ]

Cheap food on the go, from a myriad small shops and cafés, is burek , ćevapi or pita . Burek is meat pie. Ćevapi are grilled meats; the word derives from "kebab" and the traditional Sarajevo style is minced beef and mutton in a somun flatbread. Pita is a filo pasty or pie, typical varieties being meat ( meso ), cheese ( sirnica , similar to ricotta), cheese and spinach ( zeljanica ), pumpkin ( tikvenica ) and spicy potato ( krompirusa ).

City centre around the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque [ edit ]

• 43.859022 18.431635 1 Buregdžinica Bosna , Bravadžiluk 11 , ☏ +387 33 538-426 . Daily 08:00-23:00 . Pita & burek café, sandwiched between Mrkva and Bosnian House. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.8589 18.429663 2 Fan Ferhatović , Čizmedžiluk 1 . Pleasant ambience in the bazaar, good local food, friendly staff. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.85876 18.429662 3 Ćevabdžinica Željo 3 , Ćurčiluk veliki 34 . Traditional Bosnian barbecue food. The atmosphere is great. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.858863 18.431381 4 Sač , Bravadžiluk mali 2 . Authentic Bosnian cuisine with yummy burek and excellent pies. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.85872 18.42564 5 Teraza , Strossmayerova 8 , ☏ +387 61 569 513 . Pizzas and Bosnian sandwiches. Excellent location just heart of the city center with unique retro design makes you feel calm and relax. The food and the service are good. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.859124 18.426409 6 The Epicentrum , Muvekita 11 . Excellent homemade food, paradise tomato soup. ( updated May 2022 )

City centre around the Vječna vatra memorial [ edit ]

• 43.859822 18.425833 7 Pizzeria Ago , Mula Mustafe Baseskije 17 , ☏ +387 33 203-900 . 08:00-23:00 . Good value pizzas, and pancakes at only 2 KM. Excellent pizzeria, great service and staff. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.858808 18.423346 8 Srebrena školjka , Ferhadija 7 . Traditional Bosnian cuisine in a fabulous atmosphere, very very nice staff, almost like stepping back in time. If you're looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of the summer heat, this is it. The upstairs dining room has character and a great view down into the market. The owners are warm and friendly. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.858412 18.423304 9 Ćevabdžinica Nune , Ferhadija 12 . A little restaurant in the backyard of the main street Ferhadija. Super cute father and son shop with some of the best cevapci in town! Definitely a recommendation for a quick meal. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.85928 18.425207 10 Chipas , Trg Fra Grge Martića 4 . Excellent food, fast service, very cultured and friendly waiters, everything clean and tidy. A large selection of food and drinks at a very decent price. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.858996 18.425629 11 Sedef , 71000 Ferhadija 16 BA . Traditional dishes, comfortable and quiet place in an alley. A very beautiful restaurant, the food is delicious and clean, and the service is amazing. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.8596 18.42188 12 Cakum-Pakum , Kaptol 10 , ☏ +387 61 955 310 . A little restaurant with great crepes. There is kind of a hype about this place. It's nice and cozy and has a wonderful interior design. ( updated May 2022 )

Mid-range [ edit ]

• 43.84886 18.38417 13 Pizzeria Maslina , Trg Heroja 12 , ☏ +387 62 751 200 . Affordable with a diversity of cuisines, from Italian to Bosnian traditional food. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.859016 18.432226 14 Petica Ferhatović , Bravadžiluk 21 , ☏ +387 33 537 555 . Daily 08:00–23:00 . Popular but spacious serving fresh beef ćevapi. The waitresses wear traditional Bosnian dresses. 6 KM for ćevapi (July 2019) . ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.858548 18.428448 15 Ascinica ASDž , Ćurčiluk mali 3 in Bascarsija , ☏ +387 33 238-500 . 08:00–19:00 . When you get sick of greasy meats, ASDž serves Bosnian-home-cooking, vegetable-based dishes (but don't expect vegetarian, as many are still flavoured with little meat). Order cafeteria-style at the counter: you pay by the plate, and can mix-and-match different foods onto the same plate. ( updated May 2022 )
• 43.852949 18.40026 16 Cappuccino , Grbavica ( near river Miljacka in green area ). Daily 07:00-22:00 . Delicious Bosnian meals and the best pasta and pizza in the region. Good for a full meal, a snack or just a coffee. ( updated Aug 2022 )
• 43.85973 18.4281 18 A P Ǝ T I T , Gazi Husrev begova 61 , ☏ +387 62 86 81 31 , [email protected] . An "open kitchen" and a daily menu prepared from ingredients; meat dishes, fish dishes, risottos, pastas, imaginative salads, fragrant woks and delicious sweet pleasures. Also dishes for vegans, vegetarians and gluten-free offerings. ( updated Aug 2022 )

Splurge [ edit ]

• 43.859598 18.43048 19 Dveri , Prote Bakovića 12 , ☏ +387 33 537-020 , [email protected] . 09:00-23:00 . Homestyle restaurant in heart of old Sarajevo. Very cozy feel, with strands of garlic, lots of delicious warm bread, hearty soups, meats, etc. ( updated Aug 2022 )
• 43.861024 18.417922 20 Mala Kuhinja , Tina Ujevića 13 , ☏ +387 61 144 741 , [email protected] . M-Sa 10:00-23:00 . Tiny restaurant, only seats 15, owned by Bosnian celebrity chef Muamer Kurtagic. No menu: he prepares what is fresh each day and for any preferences. You watch the work in progress. ( updated Aug 2022 )
• 43.87152 18.42758 21 Restaurant Kibe , Vrbanjuša 164 , ☏ +387 33 441 936 , +387 61 040 000 (Mobile) , [email protected] . With stunning panoramic views of the city, Kibe Mahala offers a selection of national dishes, such as spit-roasted lamb, and a wide assortment of wines from Bosnia and Herzegovina and the region. ( updated Aug 2022 )
• 43.830013 18.303705 22 Restoran Brajlovic , Samira Ćatovića Kobre 6, Ilidža , ☏ +387 33 626-226 . 07:00-23:00 . At the water front of the Zeljeznica, offers an up scale selection of Bosnian specialities. Their cevapcici is popular. ( updated Aug 2022 )
• 43.856868 18.432245 23 Sarajevo Brewery ( Sarajevska pivara ), Franjevačka 15 , ☏ +387 33 491-100 . Daily 10:00-01:00 . A large bar and restaurant near the Latin Bridge. Serves 'western' food, only so-so quality & amount for the price, plus a variety of beers brewed on the premises. Sometimes smoky & lacking ventilation, quality of service variable. The brewery also has a souvenir shop / museum. ( updated Aug 2022 )

Drink [ edit ]

Sarajevo has vibrant night life with a plenty small thematic bars. Clubs are usually opened until early morning. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are hot days to hang out despite the rest of the week offers quite good night life. There are probably over 100 cafés in the city, centred in the old town, but a clear distinction is made whether the traditional Bosnian coffee is served or not.

Cafes [ edit ]

• 43.85914 18.43174 1 Bosanska kafana "Index" , Bascarsija 12 ( Kazandziluk ), ☏ +387 33 447-485 . Bosnian coffee ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.84906 18.38555 2 Cafe Slastičarna "Palma" , Porodice Ribar br.5 , ☏ +387 33 714 700 , [email protected] . Coffee and pastry shop, located in the part of town called Hrasno, started in 1970. In 1985 "Palma" received the CD -Diplomatic Consular Code. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.86036 18.4322 3 Ministry of Ćejf , Kovači 26 , ☏ +387 61 482 036 . Great espresso and well trained baristas. Also has karak and good cakes. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.85911 18.42955 4 Miris Dunja , Ulica Čizmedžiluk 9 , ☏ +387 62 922 900 . Coffee, including Bosnian coffee, and fruit juices. On a typical day the Bosnian coffee is very good, and on a good day it is extraordinary. Bosnian coffee: 2 KM . ( updated Aug 2019 )
• 43.85351 18.37176 5 Mrvica , Paromlinska 58h ( located in the Novo Sarajevo residential area, near "Vjetrenjača" (Windmill) ), ☏ + 387 62 887 777 , [email protected] . Coffee, brunch or even lunch ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.85929 18.42609 6 Mrvica Old Town , Ulica Jelića 5 ( near the Sacred Heart Cathedral "Katedrala Srca Isusova" ). Coffee and different types of cakes and desserts. No Bosnian coffee served, only "modern" coffee styles. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.857629 18.421401 7 Opera Bar/Café , B Sarajeva 25 ( opposite the city's Opera house ), ☏ +387 33 831-647 . 07:00-12:00 . Fast WiFi connection, but the staff can be unfriendly and inattentive. Attracts the acting and musical community among the regulars, though this isn't an exclusive kind of place. A bit smoky. Espresso: 2 KM . ( updated Jul 2017 )

Bars [ edit ]

• 43.856407 18.426087 8 Café de Paris , Hamdije Kreševljakovića 61 ( South end of Ćumurija bridge, in the green-and-yellow building. ), ☏ +387 33 211-609 . 07:00–22:00 . You might not have expected to find an IPA in the Balkans, but Café de Paris serves a selection of craft beers from Sarajevo microbreweries. They also have a range of very smooth local rakijas (try the quince). Riverside, outdoor seating looks out upon impressive architecture from the Austro-Hungarian times. Craft beer 3–4 KM . ( updated Oct 2016 )
• 43.855161 18.421549 9 Tre Bicchieri Wine Store & Tasting Bar , Cobanija 3 , ☏ +387 33 223-230 . Long list of Italian wines. Very cozy and comfortable place. Good music & relaxing atmosphere. ( updated Jul 2017 )

Sleep [ edit ]

You need to register with the local police within 24 hours of arrival. Your hotel or hostel should do this on check-in, but if you wild-camp or stay at a private residence, you need to organise this yourself. Failure to register doesn't normally bother the authorities but could result in a fine or deportation.

• You can wild camp in the park by the River Miljacka. Chances are you'll see tents already there. Follow the road west and stay close to the river. In summer there is a public toilet. No guard or services.
• Locals may unofficially let you stay in their property, payment to be negotiated.
• 43.862102 18.439061 1 Haris Youth Hostel , Vratnik Mejdan 29 , ☏ +387 33 23 25 63 . Haris is the owner, friendly fellow who also owns a tourism agency near the pigeon square at Kovaci 1 and can take you on tours around the city, annotated with his own experiences from the war. The hostel is ten minutes uphill walk from the main square, worth it for the view and hospitality. Dorm 18 KM ppn, private rooms 40 KM ppn . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.858481 18.426597 2 Hostel City Centre Sarajevo , Saliha Hadzihuseinovica Muvekita No. 2/3 ( Between Ferhadija and Zelenih beretki streets ), ☏ +387 61 757 587 . Check-out: 10:00 . Clean and tidy place to stay with kitchen facilities, 2 large living and common rooms, cable TV, free internet and wifi. They have 4- ,5- ,6- and 10-bed mixed dorms plus 2,3 and 4 bed private rooms. You'll need to lug your baggage up 4 flights, no lift. Dorm 30 KM ppn . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.847502 18.391441 3 Motel Jasmin , Kupreska 26 ( Bascarsija ), ☏ +387 33 71 61 55 . Singles, doubles, triples with separate bathrooms and TV. Cleanliness very variable. B&B double 60 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.860196 18.431075 4 Hostel Ljubičica , Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 65 ( Old Town, tram stop Bascarsija ), ☏ +387 61 131 813 . The hostel itself is friendly, central for Old Town and usually clean. However it's also a travel & accommodation agency, and may place you in any of a number of dorms in the area; it may not be clear at the time of booking what you're getting. Dorm 30 KM ppn . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.85871 18.429286 5 Hostel Kod Keme ( Kemal's Place ), Mali Ćurčiluk 15 ( Bascarsija ), ☏ +387 33 531-140 . Small friendly guesthouse with private rooms, no dorm. B&B double 80 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.858677 18.431736 6 Pansion Sebilj , Bravadžiluk bb ( Obala Kulina baba between Careve cuprija and Novi most at the Miljacka riverside ), ☏ +387 33 573-500 . Most of the staff speak English fluently. An internet-cafe is downstairs in the same house, a restaurant in the atrium. The restaurants in the Old Town, groceries and a pharmacy are all in walking distance. Good location, friendly staff, hot water, clean. But no internet, walls are paper thin, you can hear everything in the next room, and the downstairs bar plays loud music till midnight, uncomfortable slat beds. Unisex showers (only 2) and bathroom. No way to lock bathroom or shower area when inside. No laundry service, no kitchen. No lockers for gear. 30 KM ppn . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.8646 18.436327 7 Hostel Tower , Hadzisabanovica 15 , ☏ +387 61 800 263 , toll-free: +387 61 566 350 , [email protected] . Clean & mostly friendly place, wifi weak. On two occasions in 2018-19, guests fell foul of the owner and were literally kicked out, with a boot to backside. Dorm 20 KM ppn, private room from 40 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.861762 18.432935 8 Hotel Hayat , Abdesthana 27 ( a less-than 5-minute walk northeast from the Kovači Square, near Bascarsija ), ☏ +387 33 570-370 . 130 KM . ( updated Jul 2017 )
• 43.865076 18.405322 9 Hotel & Hostel Kan Sarajevo , Brace Begic 35 ( near the bus station ), ☏ +387 33 220 531 . Single to quadruple bed- bedrooms as well as apartments. Restaurant on site and personal assistance with sightseeing. From 40 KM. ( updated Jul 2017 )

• 43.859972 18.429767 10 Garni Hotel Konak , Mula Mustafe Başeskije 54 ( Tram 1 to Pigeon Square, follow tram tracks west for two blocks, look left for the red and white sign ), ☏ +387 33 476 900 , [email protected] . Staff are friendly, speak English, and in the off season can be persuaded to negotiate. Hotel amenities include breakfast, ensuite bathrooms and internet connected computers, while the hostel rooms are double bed privates with satellite television which share a bathroom among three rooms. B&B double from 140 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• Hotel Hecco Deluxe , Ferhadija 2 ( By Eternal Flame ), ☏ +387 33 558 995 , [email protected] . Business hotel with suites and terrace restaurant. It's on the top floors of a building that is otherwise empty, so it's a bit spooky in hours of darkness. Often smells of cigarette smoke. B&B double 140 KM . ( updated Jul 2019 )
• 43.86159 18.422495 11 Hotel Michele , Ivana Cankara 27 , ☏ +387 33 560 310 , +387 61 338 177 , [email protected] . In a quiet area. The staff are nice, breakfast and laundry included plus private parking with direct elevator access to the room floors. B&B double 120 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.860237 18.426884 12 Hotel VIP , Jaroslava Černija br 3 , ☏ +387 33 535533 , [email protected] . Latin bridge is 300 metres from Hotel VIP, while Bascarsija Street is 300 metres away. The airport is 9 km. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.859909 18.426867 13 Motel Sokak , Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 24 ( Just down the road from the Bascarsija tram stop. ), ☏ +387 33 570-355 , [email protected] . It's small clean, quiet, friendly and comfortable, in an old building but modern inside. Double: 185 KM . ( updated Jul 2017 )
• 43.857876 18.427334 14 Opal Home Sarajevo ( Hotel Opal Home ), Despićeva 4 , ☏ +387 37 445 445 , [email protected] . The four-star hotel with modern design and luxury interior. 12 comfortable rooms and 22 beds. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.86081 18.43111 15 Pansion Stari Grad , Sagrdžije 29A ( walk up the hill from the Sebilj ), ☏ +387 33 239 898 , [email protected] . Check-out: 10:00-11:00 . A cozy hotel walking distance from the old town with friendly staff willing to help guests get around the city with maps and tips. Double 100 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.828937 18.358975 16 Hotel Terex , Ive Andrica 23, 71123 Dobrinja ( on a walking distance from the airport ), ☏ +387 57 318 100 , fax : +387 57 317 150 , [email protected] . Small hotel surrounded by apartments in the residential area of Dobrinja, close to the Dobrinja commercial district. 180 KM . ( updated Oct 2017 )
• 43.833145 18.348289 17 Hotel Imzit , Lukavička Cesta , ☏ +387 33 451 423 , [email protected] . Basic hotel at the outskirts of Dobrinja at the foot of Suma Mojmilo hill. 160 KM . ( updated Oct 2017 )
• 43.82807 18.339722 18 Hotel Octagon , Akifa Šeremeta 48 , ☏ +387 33 789-905 . A lovely 3 star hotel in a residential area across from the airport, ideally suited for business travellers on a lay-over. 160 KM . ( updated Oct 2017 )
• 43.856425 18.403564 19 Hotel Holiday ( formerly Holiday Inn ), Zmaja od Bosne 4, 71000 Sarajevo ( 5 min walk from train and bus station ), ☏ +387 33 288 200 , +387 33 288 300 , fax : +387 33 288 288 , [email protected] . Check-in: 12:00 , check-out: 12:00 . Clean, safe, nice private rooms with private bathroom and shower, well-maintained. Friendly staff speak English. Credit cards accepted. The restaurant on the third floor is great. 236 KM . ( updated Aug 2018 )
• 43.852839 18.38968 20 Novotel Sarajevo Bristol , Fra Filipa Lastrića 2 ( Tram stop Pofalići ), ☏ +387 33 705 000 , [email protected] . Check-in: 14:00 , check-out: 12:00 . Business hotel now part of Accor chain. Great rooms and comfortable beds. Friendly staff, three restaurants/cafés. Halal certified. Held in regard as one of the best large hotels in the city. Entrance fee to a small spa is included in the room price. B&B double from 180 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.857929 18.425978 21 Hotel Central , Ćumurija 8 ( facing Strossmayerova pedestrian mall ), ☏ +387 33 561 800 , [email protected] . Clean comfy hotel, and it is indeed central. With spa and fitness centre. B&B double 220 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.860374 18.41438 22 Hotel Colors Inn ( Colors Inn Sarajevo ), Koševo 8 , ☏ +387 33 276600 , [email protected] . Has 37 single and double rooms and a private parking. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.85817 18.43015 24 Hotel President Sarajevo , Bazardžani 1 , ☏ +387 33 575 000 , [email protected] . Located near the centre of the old town of Sarajevo. Hotel President offers 72 comfortable rooms, garage, breakfast room, Congress Hall as well as a Café/lobby bar. ( updated Sep 2017 )
• 43.843606 18.335791 25 Radon Plaza , Džemala Bijedića 185 ( foot of Avaz tower, next to BMW showroom ), ☏ +387 33 752 900 , [email protected] . Swish hotel, named after its owner, who is also the owner of Avaz newspaper and one of the city's wealthiest people. B&B double 200 KM . ( updated Jun 2019 )
• 43.827716 18.36586 26 Hotel Espana , Ive Andrića bb, 71123 Lukavica ( on a walking distance from the airport ), ☏ +387 57 961-200 , fax : +387 57 961 202 . Hotel in a calmer residential area of Sarajevo on the territory of Republika Srpska . 220 KM . ( updated Oct 2017 )

Connect [ edit ]

There are four mobile operators in Sarajevo: BH Telecom (060, 061, 062), m:tel (065, 066, 067), HT Eronet (063) and Haloo (064). Since Bosnia and Herzegovina is not part of the EU or EEA, the international roaming charges are not capped as those have been since 2017, and can be much higher. However Bosnia and Herzegovina is part of a Balkan roaming zone with Montenegro, Serbia and North Macedonia, capped at €0.20 per MB from July 2017. But that only applies if you have a local SIM card, from any of the operators, which can be purchased in one of the many kiosks around the city. BH Telecom, m:tel and HT Eronet have offers aimed towards tourists, starting from 20 km for 5 GB.

The local area code is +387 33 ( Kanton Sarajevo ) and the local postal code is 71000.

• BH Telecom , Sarači 60 , ☏ +387 33 238-573 . M-F 08:00-22:00, Sa 08:00-16:00 . Several locations, the most convenient for Old Town is on Sarači next to the TIC. Basic mobile internet package for 5 KM (300 MB) and "Ultra Tourist 1" for 20 KM (5 GB). Ask for BH Mobile's Tourist SIM. ( updated Jul 2019 )
• Central Post Office BH Pošta is a sight in itself, see "Administrative buildings" listing earlier. It's at Obala Kulina bana 8 next to the National Theatre.
• There's another big post office next to the railway station, open M-F 07:30-18:00 and Sat 08:00-16:00.

Stay safe [ edit ]

There are still many minefields and unexploded ordnances in the broader Sarajevo area (although not in any urban area). Never go into damaged buildings (which are really rarely seen) and always stick to paved surfaces avoiding grassy hills that surround the city. As of 2020, Trebević has been completely demined. Areas that are not cleared are marked by yellow tape or signs, but still not all minefields have been identified due to the lack of resources and the lack of international help. Paved roads are always safe. Crime against foreigners is very rare and the city is safe to visit. (As with any country in former Yugoslavia, be careful not to get into sensitive discussions about politics with people you do not know, but even those can be very educational when you come across a person who's willing to discuss it.) Be aware of pick pockets who usually operate on public transportation.

Bosnia and Herzegovina has double the traffic fatality rate in Europe as a whole, and in the early 2020s there have been a few high-profile accidents with pedestrians. Be alert whether driving or crossing the street.

There are an incredible number of pickpockets working in the city and very few police officers on patrol; police are rarely seen. Pickpockets are very sloppy and it's pretty easy to spot them, but with that number of people picking the pockets they probably will succeed eventually.

Due to being surrounded by hills the air in Sarajevo in winter months (November-February) can be noticeably thick with pollution, so that asthmatics or those with other chest problems may find themselves short of breath a lot of the time, particularly at night. Ensure you have ample medication, just in case.

Avoid areas of the city such as Alipašino Polje, Švrakino and the surrounding areas of the Novi Grad municipality as those are mainly dangerous zones with high crime rates, shootings, violence and poverty. Go there only with locals and not during the night. Anyway it is off the tourist trail and you most likely won't have any reason to even go to those parts. Getting there accidentally is next to impossible as these rough neighbourhoods are far from the city centre and any of the sights in outlying areas.

Emergency services [ edit ]

• General emergency number , ☏ 112 .  
• Police , ☏ 122 .  
• Fire , ☏ 123 .  
• Ambulance , ☏ 124 .  
• Mountain Rescue , ☏ +387 33 61 29 94 43 , toll-free: 121 .  
• BIHAMK ( Road Assistance ), ☏ 1282 .  

Stay healthy [ edit ]

• Water from fountains and taps in Sarajevo is safe to drink, but it may have an unpleasant chlorine odour. The mains supply may be turned off overnight.
• The main risk to your health, land mines aside, is the strong sunlight. Usual precautions: hat, long-sleeved shirt, seek the shade and apply sun screen.
• Pharmacies ( Apotheka ) are dotted around the city. Two handy for Old Town are Al-Hana on Ulika Patka, and Apoteka Baščaršija at Obala Kulina bana 40 by the riverside.
• 43.85864 18.40809 3 General Hospital ( Dr Abdulah Nakaš Hospital ), Kranjčevićeva 12 , ☏ +387 33 285-100 , [email protected] . Only if it's serious. ( updated Jul 2019 )

Respect [ edit ]

Cultural heritage from the Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and most recently Yugoslav periods has been assimilated into modern Sarajevo as a multicultural, multireligious metropole. Catholic and Orthodox Christians and Muslims share the city, and as such, common sense regarding respect towards people of these religious backgrounds should be upheld. Even the younger generation is on average very religious in comparison to other European capitals, although not all religious traditions may be followed equally strictly. For example, young Muslims may choose to drink wine but refuse pork, while older Muslims likely abstain from both. Keep this in mind when offering presents to your host family. When visiting mosques, skin-covering clothing should be worn, and women should wear a scarf covering their hair. At the most touristic mosques, scarfs are available for visitors to borrow.

Although the Bosnian War ended with a UN enforced cease fire, the underlying conflicts between the different ethnic groups in Sarajevo are far from resolved. Many inhabitants have survived the siege of the city from 1992–95, and almost everyone has lost relatives and/or friends in the conflict. Strong anti-Serb sentiments may be present among the Bosniak population, and scars from the war are left in memory. While the war is not a taboo subject, as evidenced by the many memorials and museums scattered around the city, it remains a sensitive topic that easily brings up negative memories, if addressed uncomprehendingly. Aside from anti-Serb sentiments, many also feel dismay or anger towards the United Nations, which are blamed for the Srebrenica massacre and inadequate protection of Sarajevo citizens during the Siege.

There is an ongoing dispute between Bosnian unionists and Serb separatists, striving for the independence of Republika Srpska . Since the neighbouring town of East Sarajevo is on the territory of Republika Srpska, opinions will vary depending on where you ask in the city, although the relations are less tense than in other parts of the country and people don't have issues crossing the geographical borders. The political situation in Sarajevo in particular is complex, and outsiders taking a position may be accused of uninformed interference in internal Bosnian affairs. In general, it is advised to abstain from discussing politics, unless your conversation partner brings up the topic him/herself and asks for your opinion.

Cope [ edit ]

Embassies [ edit ], go next [ edit ].

• Konjic – 43 km southwest of Sarajevo, has Tito's enormous bunker and white-water trips down the River Neretva.
• Jablanica – 20 km west of Konjic, has a notable necropolis and the railway bridge scene of the Battle of Neretva.
• Mostar – 30 km south of Jablanica, rightly famous for its picturesque old bridge and Ottoman centre. You'll most likely pass through en route to the Adriatic coast.
• Belgrade – The capital of Serbia, 200 km northeast of Sarajevo, is a lively cosmopolitan city.

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Sarajevo travel guide

Sarajevo tourism | sarajevo guide, you're going to love sarajevo.

Sarajevo will capture your heart with its beauty, history and a sense of old-world European charm, convalescing in a modern city. Start at the Yellow Fortress to take in sweeping, panoramic views of the city before you head down for a viewing of the Olympic Bobsled. Tour the city's old mosques and cathedral's and finish the evening at Zlatna Ribica.

Top 5 Reasons to Visit Sarajevo

1. take in the city's historical architecture.

Don't miss the Latin Bridge, the Academy of Fine Arts, the Orthodox Cathedral and the old Emperor's Mosque.

2. Check Out the Vibrant Nightlife

Nightlife around Sarajevo is youthful and trendy. Check out spots like Baghdad Cafe, which is a hookah bar as well as a dance club.

3. Stroll Around Old Town

Old Town is a real draw for travelers, with it's town squares, cobbled streets, craft stores and churches standing side by side with mosques.

4. Take A Sarajevo War Tour

Learn about the history of Sarajevo and its decade-long conflict. You can also visit several strategic sites that are for soldiers and citizens alike.

5. Sample the Best of Sarajevo's Cuisine

Local cuisine includes delicacies like burek , which are special meat pies, and ćevapi , minced-meat sausages served with fresh bread, raw onions and kajmak , a type of sour cream

What to do in Sarajevo

1. the light at the end of the war.

While walking through the city it's hard to believe that, just 20 years ago, this region was torn apart by civil conflict. During the Bosnian War and the siege of Sarajevo, an underground tunnel known as "The Tunnel of Hope" was constructed to bypass Serbian forces which had left millions of civilians trapped without food, provisions, or a safe way out of the war-torn city. The tunnel, which once stretched 800 meters, has now been converted into a museum where you can walk 25 meters of the journey to understand the desperation that caused its construction.

2. Cornerstone Of The Medieval City

One of the most prominent tourist attractions is the imposing White Fortress overlooking the old Sarajevo city center. Though the exact date of the structure is unknown, based on writings and architectural clues historians date its construction to somewhere between the 14th and 15th centuries. Its location atop the Sarajevo valley gave it a perfect vantage point during the Middle Ages, when sieges were frequent. After years of neglect, the site is now being restored to its original glory.

3. Mediation Through Architecture

Over the years Bosnia and Herzegovina have known many different rulers, names, and borders. The old Town Hall, which sits by the Miljacka River, serves as an important symbol of peace between nations after being completely destroyed and rebuilt in the early 21st century. The House of Spite is so named due to a former owner, who agreed to make way for the new Town Hall only on condition that the Austro-Hungarian authorities pay him in gold coins and move his house brick by brick to the other side of the river. They complied, and now you can view one of the greatest examples of Austro-Hungarian architecture right across from that ancient home, which now serves as a restaurant preparing local Bosnian dishes.

4. The Old Ottoman Bazaar

For centuries this region was part of the vast Ottoman Empire, which stretched from Iraq all the way to eastern Europe. You can still feel the middle eastern influence at this old bazaar located right next to other popular attractions like the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and the Old Clock Tower. Buy some fragrant oriental spices, taste some delectable Turkish delights, or purchase artisan metal handcrafts forged right in the nearby square. The Bačarija is the perfect place to pick up a souvenir and feel the once prominent Ottoman culture in Sarajevo.

5. Best New Hiking Trails In Europe

Hikers and nature lovers alike will love the new network of well-marked paths stretching from Albania to Slovenia along the Dinaric Alps. The beautiful views near Sarajevo inspired both Outside Magazine and National Geographic to take note of the Balkans' unique beauty and potential as a world tourist destination. Due to the 360-degree mountains surrounding Sarajevo, you could start in the eastern edge and follow the cliffs to completely circle Bosnia's capital city in just a day.

Activities & attractions in Sarajevo

Other activities

Where to Eat in Sarajevo

If you're hungry, don't miss Petica, where you can dig into creamy kajmak and all-beef ćevapi starting at BAM3.5

When to visit Sarajevo

Sarajevo experiences four distinct seasons. Summer is the best with temperatures at 85°F. However, fall is incredibly pleasant as well, with temperatures hovering around 72°F.

How to Get to Sarajevo

Located 3.8 miles from the city center is the Sarajevo Airport. To travel to the city center, use Bus #36. Purchase a ticket for BAM1.60 at the kiosks or shell out BAM1.80 to buy from the driver.

International trains coming in from Croatia have been discontinued as of March 2017. However, there is a journey from Mostar and Čapljina to Sarajevo. Tickets cost BAM11. Trains arrive at Railway Station Sarajevo.

Book a private car from companies like GEA Tours for BAM70. If you're traveling from Belgrade to Sarajevo, get on the A3/E75. Take Route 20, Route 136 and Route 26 before getting onto the M19.

Sarajevo's main bus station is called Autobuska stanica Sarajevo and is located right next to the train station. International tickets must be bought online. A one-way trip from Vienna costs around BAM86.

Airports near Sarajevo

Airlines serving sarajevo, where to stay in sarajevo.

Rest in luxury at the esteemed Radon Plaza. Or, feel right at home with great hospitality at Hotel Michele. Travelers on a budget will love Hostel Posillipo.

Popular Neighborhoods in Sarajevo

Bačarija – Thriving and alive, there are plenty of shops, eateries and bars in this neighborhood. You can also check out the local markets that pop up through the day.

Babića bača – One of the oldest neighborhoods in Sarajevo boasts beautiful public and residential gardens, picturesque stone bridges overlooking ponds and gorgeous sacred mosques.

Skenderija – Sitting on a hill is this neighborhood, which is famous for its significance as a sports and culture hub. The 194 Winter Olympic Games was held here.

Where to stay in popular areas of Sarajevo

Most booked hotels in sarajevo, how to get around sarajevo, public transportation.

Residents and travelers alike rely on the GRAS public transport in Sarajevo. Tickets cost BAM1.8 and there are also unlimited day passes available.

Taxis in Sarajevo can be taken from various points around the city. Flat rates start at BAM1.50 and it is BAM1.62 for each mile after that.

There are several rental company options like Minell or AutoEurope. Depending on the company, rental prices start at BAM189.

Car rental agencies in Sarajevo

The cost of living in sarajevo, shopping streets.

Check out the Alta Shopping Center or Sarajevo City Center if you love to find deals at malls. Otherwise, potter around Old Town for one-of-a-kind wares from open-air bazaars.

Groceries and Other

A quart of milk in Sarajevo costs BAM1.35 and a dozen eggs will run you about BAM2.55.

The Ultimate Sarajevo Travel Guide And Itinerary

• Last Updated On: December 24, 2023

Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the most complex and beautiful cities in the Balkans. I’ve been all over the Balkans (literally I have been to every country in the Balkans) and few places offer the combination of history, historical beauty, and modern significance that Sarajevo offers. Sarajevo has perhaps the most traumatic and destructive history of any European city in modern times as it was the epicenter of the Bosnian War of the 1990s.

I spent three full days in Sarajevo soaking in the culture, history, and food after an equally amazing trip to the southern capital of Mostar . I will talk about the food in great detail later but I can safely say that the best Balkan food you can find is in Sarajevo and Bosnia in general. You will not find better cevapi or burek than you will find in Sarajevo.

Just to prove I’m not lying, make sure to read my other posts about the countries in the Balkans!

• Two week Balkans itinerary: Serbia, Croatia and Montenegro
• Montenegro Coast Road Trip
• Albania and Kosovo
• N. Macedonia
• North Greece

History of Sarajevo

Sarajevo as we know it today was founded by the Ottoman Empire during the time they conquered and controlled the Balkans. The city was designed in the traditional Ottoman style with numerous Mosques, a traditional market square, a bazaar, and more.

The people of this area also converted to Islam during the Ottoman empire which gave rise to the Bosnian identity. As the Ottoman empire was collapsing in the late 19th century and nearby Serbia staked its independence, Sarajevo sought to do the same. Eventually, they came under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian empire in 1878.

During the next few decades, rapid industrialization and architectural changes took place. Many of Sarajevo’s iconic gothic style architecture was designed in these decades and many of these were built directly aside the Ottoman old town offering a beautiful contrast of East and West.

After WW1, Sarajevo became a part of Yugoslavia and saw rapid growth for the next decades with countless Communist style buildings going up in and around the old city. Communist style architecture isn’t much to write home about so I will just keep it there.

Sarajevo was known as the Jerusalem of Europe

Sarajevo was aptly named the Jerusalem of Europe prior to the Bosnian War of the 1990s. Sarajevo during the era of Yugoslavia was known as the true melting pot of Europe with all religions represented. Muslims, Catholic, Orthodox, and Jews all lived in the same city in peace. Even the demographic split between Muslim, Catholic and Orthodox was pretty even.

As you walk through the city, you’ll see the three main religions of the Balkans beautifully represented by imposing churches and mosques. For the Catholic Croatian side of Bosnia, you had the Sacred Heart Cathedral , a large Gothic era cathedral that still stands proud today. For Orthodox, you have the Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos which is the second largest Orthodox church in the Balkans. For Islam, you have numerous mosques all over the city including the most famous Gazi Husrev-beg MOsque in the old town.

I’ve been all over Europe and it’s hard, if not impossible to find another city that displays all three religions in such a grandiose fashion. Sadly, after the war, the population of Croats and Serbs decreased significantly as demographics were re-aligned along ethnic lines.

Best time to visit Sarajevo

Sarajevo is a typical European destination which means the best weather is between May and October. The winter months from November to April can be quite cold as it is surrounded by mountains so make sure to dress accordingly. As well, the mountains also ensure the city doesn’t completely bake in the summer heat which is nice.

If you’re visiting other parts of the Balkans like neighboring Serbia, Croatia, or Montenegro , make sure to account for the weather in those areas as well. The peak tourist months of July and August means places like Dubrovnik will be packed fuller than a Disneyland theme park.

Sarajevo is still relatively off the beaten path as far as European destinations go. Tourism has definitely increased in recent years and it has especially become popular with Middle Eastern tourists. However, even while visiting in August, it didn’t feel overwhelming as other European capitals I’ve visited.

How to get around Sarajevo

The city of Sarajevo is built in a valley surrounded by mountains. It closely follows the Miljacka River, meaning its shape is long and spread out. From the town’s city center, the newer residential parts of Sarajevo stretch for many kilometers westward towards the airport. As a tourist, you’ll likely never visit these areas since there isn’t much to see so most of your time will be in the Old Town.

The old town of Sarajevo is small and you can walk from one end to the other in 20 minutes so you don’t need to familiarize yourself with the trains.

Sarajevo Airport to the city center

From the airport, your main options are the bus and a taxi. The Sarajevo city bus costs 5 KM and takes about 45 minutes to reach the city center. Taxis are available outside the airport and are metered. A ride into the old town will be roughly 20 KM. Payment has to be in cash.

There are also many train and bus connections between Sarajevo and its major southern city of Mostar . In addition, Sarajevo to Belgrade is a popular bus route.

Where to stay in Sarajevo

Because of Sarajevo’s size and city layout, you really don’t need to research much about where to stay and where the best neighborhoods are. It is abundantly clear, stay near the old town. If you are confused, just look at a map of Sarajevo and simply stay in and around the yellow shaded area which denotes the old town.

Staying south of the river is also an option but don’t venture too far out as there really isn’t much going on outside of the old town.

Accommodation is very cheap in Sarajevo in comparison to places like neighboring Croatia . You can expect to find Airbnbs for well under $100 a night even in the summer months. The week or two surrounding the Sarajevo Film festival will see elevated prices but even then it is not that much more.

One of the best and most central places to stay is at the Hotel Europe , a five star luxury hotel located right in the heart of the old city between the Ottoman old city and the Austro-Hungarian old city.

What to do and see in Sarajevo

Sarajevo is a small city but packs a surprising amount of things to see. I didn’t even get a chance to do everything but here are some of the top sights to visit in the Bosnian capital.

Have a shisha in the city square

I love a good shisha and being in an Ottoman style old town means you have plenty of options at night. There is a small square just adjacent to the main square where there are plenty of cafes and shisha lounges. At night, you’ll see all the young locals coming here for their nightly shishas.

Make sure to visit Damask for the best shishas at night between 8pm and midnight. Prices are very reasonable and shishas are amazing. There are numerous other spots in the square offering shishas and drinks.

Sarajevo Sebilj

Sarajevo has many things to see but it’s most iconic monument is the Sebilj. This wooden fountain sits in the middle of the Old Town square and it is definitely one of its most photographed landmarks. It was built in 1753 during the Ottoman empire, providing fresh water to its citizens. One of Sarajevo’s most iconic photos is taken of this monument with the mosque and mountains in the background.

This square is also known as Pigeon square as giant swarms of pigeons congregate behind the Sebilj for people to feed. Whoever thought this was a good idea is beyond me. It’s almost as disgusting as the people that kept feeding the seagulls in front of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul . If you have a fear of pigeons, you’ll want to avoid this square completely!

Contrast between old town and city center

Sarajevo offers one of the most unique contrasts of any city in Europe. The Old City (Stari Grad) is the area east of the Ferhadija street which showcases Ottoman architecture and the city from hundreds of years ago. Everything west of Ferhadija street is the newer part of town which was built after the 1880s when the city was handed to the Austro Hungarian empire.

There is a plaque on the ground of this street marking the “meeting of cultures” which firmly divides the city between east and west.

Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque

The Gazi Husrev mosque is the largest mosque in all of Bosnia. This beautiful structure holds significant importance in the Islamic community of Bosnia. The inside is beautifully designed and is open to the public. Islam in Bosnia is probably one of the most liberal interpretations in the world. Most people in the country are not super religious and you can see it just by the way people dress and the amount of rakija consumed.

Nearby, there is also a giant watchtower with a clock that does not tell the time that you’re used to but rather is pegged to lunar time and specifically the hour of sunset.

Miljacka Riverfront and Latin Bridge

The Miljacka river runs through the city of Sarajevo and is adorned with numerous small bridges that connect the two halves of the city. The most famous bridge is by far the Latin Bridge.

This bridge was the site where Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated by Serbian extremists in 1914. This would of course trigger the events that led to World War I, the largest conflict the world had seen up to that point.

On the northern end of the bridge, you’ll find a mural and plaque that marks the spot of the assassination. You’ll even find two footsteps embossed in the ground that shows exactly where Gavrilo Princip, the assassinator stood while firing the gun.

Sarajevo Roses

It’s impossible to avoid the legacy of the war and no one in Sarajevo is trying to. You’ll find bullet holes all over the buildings ranging from apartment buildings, to commercial buildings, to hospitals, and even in the old town. There are scars of the war everywhere you go.

You’ll also find patches all over the city that were previously mortar damage that has now been filled in with red colored resin. These aptly named “Sarajevo Roses” mark spots where lives were taken during the war. You’ll find them all over the city as you walk around which serves as a grim reminder of how harrowing life was 30 years ago but also how far the city has come since.

Sarajevo Genocide Museum

The Sarajevo Genocide Museum is a must visit for travelers visiting the Balkans. It is a small museum dedicated to the plights and suffering endured by millions during the Bosnian war between 1992 and 1995. Sarajevo suffered large casualties and was under siege for three years but the worst atrocities were committed outside of the capital city. While the capital city had some form of defense against invaders, the small villages around Bosnia did not.

The museum has many images, interviews, and even diary entries from people that lost their lives to the massacres committed in the 1990s by the hands of the Serbs. I’m not going to lie, it was very tough to read some of the things at the museum but that is the whole purpose. It reminds me of my visit to the Rwandan genocide museum which shockingly enough, occurred at the same time as the Bosnian War. The parallels between the two genocides is especially extreme as it was essentially two groups of people that for all intents and purposes were the same people but due to ultra nationalist rhetoric, atrocities were committed.

The craziest thing to me about this whole conflict is that young Serbians don’t learn about these genocides in the same light that young Germans learn about World War II. In Germany, there is no denial or any sort of filtering given to WW2. Germans know they did unspeakable things and know 100% they were the bad guys. In Serbia, there are still schools of thought that deny what was done in the 1990s, as if there was another side to the story.

Trebević Cable Car

One of the best things to do in Sarajevo on a clear sunny day is to take the city’s cable car. Built in 1958, this cable car system connected the city center with the mountain Trebevic. Over the years, it’s seen numerous repairs and shut downs before finally reopening to the masses in 2018.

The ride is 8 minutes and takes you 1.2km above sea level to fantastic views of the city and surrounding landscape.

Free Walking Tour of Sarajevo

The free walking tour of Sarajevo is a must do. The tour walks around the old Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian parts of town and is a great way to learn about the city. There are tours that leave daily at 10:30am and 3pm from the Stari Grad.

The tour visits all of the big highlights of Sarajevo including the Ottoman old town, the Latin bridge, the Vijecnica, Caravanserai, and much more.

The Vijećnica  is that beautiful Neo-Moorish building in front of the river at the edge of the old town. It was once a city hall before coming a large library after WWII filled with rare books and documents. During the war, it suffered extensive and deliberate damage from the Serbian shelling and countless books were destroyed.

Nowadays, it has mostly been restored to its former glory and you can enter the building for a visit of the old library.

Old Bezistan Covered Market

In the old Ottoman town of Sarajevo, the most famous market is the covered market of Bezistan. This is similar to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul but just at a fraction of the size. While metalworkers and jewelers operated outdoors, those who made and sold textiles called this indoor market home for centuries. You can walk through the beautiful stone structure and buy any souvenirs that suit your fancy.

Off along the outside of the Bezistan Covered Market, you’ll find the open air ruins of the  Tašlihan . I thought these were Roman ruins at first but they were built in the 16th century but only ruins remain in the modern times.

Have a drink at S One Sky Lounge

For the best views of Sarajevo with a drink, make sure to visit the S One Sky Lounge. This trendy lounge offers beautiful views of the old town and is perfect for a quick drink before dinner on a sunny day. Drinks here are expensive in comparison to other bars but it’s expected as you’re also paying for the view!

Collapse of Yugoslavia Day tour

Shortly after the walking tour, I decided to join their afternoon private guided tour covering the fall of Yugoslavia and the war in Bosnia. As you’ll quickly learn, Sarajevo was the epicenter of the fight during the Yugoslavian war of the 1990s and the city was under constant siege for three years. As the city is surrounded by mountains, it was a very easy city to lay siege to as the Serbian military could easily set up shop on the mountains and rain down mortars and bullets from above.

It’s estimated there was 400,000+ bullets that came down on Sarajevo in those three years.

This tour was fantastic. Our guide was a local millennial Bosnian that lived through the war as a child and told stories of their daily struggles and what life was like in those times. The tour also talked about the history of Yugoslavia and why the conflict became what it ultimately was. I had already learned a lot about this conflict from my previous travels through the Balkans but learned even more during this trip.

One of the main causes for the atrocities committed in Bosnia was the arms embargo that was inflicted on all of Yugoslavia which wasn’t lifted when the war started. Serbians controlled the remnants of the Yugoslavian army so they had plenty of weapons but Bosnia had no way of obtaining any weapons from the outside.

Sniper Alley

The tour drove around Sarajevo to various points of interest showing what life was like during those few years. Sniper Alley was one of these areas that is now a main commercial street. During those three years, sniper alley was an extremely dangerous street that was monitored by Serbian snipers ready to shoot anyone crossing. Civilians would have to sprint across these streets or bike as fast as possible during those times.

Tunnels of Sarajevo

The tunnels of Sarajevo are a must visit for any visitor to the city. Located near to the airport, this impromptu tunnel was created during the war as a way to smuggle goods in and out of the city without the detection of the Serbians. This 800m long and 1.6m high tunnel was a lifeline to the city as literally there was no other way of obtaining basic supplies.

You can actually walk through the tunnel for a few meters retracing the steps of those that had to live through the carnage.

Best Cevapi in Sarajevo

Cevapi, or Cevapcici, is the most popular food of the Balkans. It is at the heart of every Balkan person to eat and love cevapi. I’m not Balkan but I can safely say I’ve eaten my way through all the different cevapi variations in each country. Every country has their version but none compare to the cevapi in Bosnia, and particularly Sarajevo.

This delicious meal of ground beef served in a delicious lepinja bread with onion and kajmak is one of the must try dishes in Sarajevo.

There are countless cevapi restaurants in Sarajevo and every resident has their favorite. Ask one person and you’ll get a completely different answer than someone else. These are fighting words after all.

I sampled numerous cevapi restaurants in Sarajevo and the best cevapi I had was at Cevabdzinica Zeljo . The secret to an amazing cevapi is delicious meat that has the flavor of the charcoal grill, bread that is soft but crispy, and kajmak that is rich but not super buttery.

Zeljo had the best of all of these and it was overall my favorite. The other also very respectable options are Fertahovic, Nune, and Cevabdzinica Specjial. You won’t go wrong at any of these places! Just keep in mind that a good cevapi shop does not serve alcohol because they don’t need the extra income. The menus are quite basic and you’re here just for a few simple things. If you find a restaurant serving cevapi with beer, avoid it as they are not making their own fresh cevapi.

Best Burek in Sarajevo

Burek is a way of life in the Balkans. This delicious pastry stuffed with meat, cheese, potatoes, or spinach is one of the most famous dishes you can have in the region. I’ve had Burek everywhere and I can safely say that Sarajevo has the best burek in the world. It’s even better than the burek I had in Istanbul or the ones I had in Kosovo.

The Bosnian style of Burek is unique in that it is cooked in a sac; which is a traditional round pan that is covered with piles of charcoal. Bosnian burek is also famous in that the outer crust of the burek is remarkably soft yet crunch, and is filled with toppings without falling apart.

A visit to Sarajevo without a visit to one of the many buregdzinicas is not a complete trip. The best burek in Sarajevo are at Buregdzinica Bosna and Buregdzinica Sac . Burek is a popular breakfast dish but is eaten all throughout the day. It is traditionally served with kajmak, the Bosnian version of sour cream.

So delicious.

Drink Bosnian Coffee and Eat Baklava

Bosnian coffee is a must try when visiting Sarajevo. It’s essentially the same thing as Turkish coffee but people drink it here like there’s no tomorrow. You’ll see locals hanging out at the countless cafes in the old town sipping on their coffees for hours. The best place to try this is at Cafe Divan located inside the Caravan Saray – Morica Han. This traditional style cafe was once a caravan house that housed travelers and traders from all over the world.

Nowadays, Cafe Divan is a traditional coffee house that serves tourists and locals alike. The wooden interior and abundance of trees inside the courtyard makes everything feel a few degrees warmer than on the main street.

Eat delicious Balkava at Cafe Jasmin

I’m not a big sweets person but I absolutely love Baklava. This Turkish desert is famous all over the Middle East. Since the Balkans were a part of the Ottoman empire, these countries also have a storied history of producing and consuming Baklava. While traditional Turkish baklava is made with Pistachio, Bosnian baklava is made with walnuts were are most abundantly available in the country.

You’ll find baklava literally on ever street corner but for the best, make sure to visit Cafe Jasmin or Baklava Ducan in the old city. Expect to pay 2-3 KM per piece and I would only recommend to eat 1 piece at a time as they are super rich.

Two Day Itinerary of Sarajevo

Sarajevo is not a big city and you don’t really need more than two days to see the whole city. I spent more time in this city because my partner had roots in this city and I could spend a lifetime eating burek.

Nevertheless, if you have two days in Sarajevo, this is how I would plan the trip.

Day 1 in Sarajevo

9:00am: Get an early start to the day by having breakfast at one of the many burek shops in the city. Burek is a way of life in the Balkans and you’ll find it all over the place but nothing beats the burek of Bosnia (not even being biased here). Go to Buregdzinica Bosna for the best burek you can get. There are multiple types of burek but the most popular are with meat. Get a side of Kajmak with it as well and you’ll be in heaven. Move over French croissants , this is probably one of the most savory and delicious breakfasts you’ll ever have.

10:00am: Walk towards the Sarajevo Sebilj for one of the most iconic views of the city. The city square should be bustling by now so it’s a great time to get a feel of the old city. Walk through the narrow streets and look at the crafts and goods for sale.

10:30 – 12:30: Join the free walking tour which explores a lot of the old town of Sarajevo. This is a great way to get acclimated to the city and get the historical perspective from a local.

12:30 – 13:30: Time for food again. Eat a cevapi at one of the countless cevapi restaurants in town. My favorites are Zeljo and Fertahovic but you can’t go wrong with either option. 10 pieces of cevapi will be enough for a hungry dude.

14:00 – 16:00 : Head to the Caravanserai at Morica Han to enjoy an afternoon Bosnian coffee with baklava. Lounge here and explore the old town afterwards to your desire.

18:30 : Have a drink at the beautiful S One Sky Bar while soaking in the views of Sarajevo and the nearby mountains.

20:00 – Dinner out on the town followed by a shisha session in the old town

Day 2 in Sarajevo

9:00: No day is compete without burek so just like the day before, visit your favorite burek shop to eat the best burek in the Balkans.

10:30 – 14:00 : Go on the guided Fall of Yugoslavia tour. This tour will drive you around the city visiting the most iconic spots dedicated to the war in Sarajevo including the tunnels, sniper alley, and more.

14:00 – 15:00 : Time for lunch which is just more cevapi in my books. Don’t really need to get much else besides your daily meat coma.

15:00: Visit the Sarajevo Genocide Museum dedicated to the lives lost and the mass suffering of the Bosnian people during the wars.

16:00: Take the Trebevic cable car to the top of the mountain for stunning views of the city.

Continue Reading:

Guide to visiting mostar, bosnia and herzegovina, the perfect two week itinerary for the balkan countries.

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The Ultimate Travel Guide to Sarajevo

Sarajevo might well be one of the most off the beaten track cities to visit in Europe, but the Bosnian capital is also one of the most fascinating cities on the continent.

Although its best known either as the site of the assassination of Franz Ferdinand, the spark that started the first world war, or for the brutal siege that levelled much of the city when Yugoslavia collapsed in the 1990s, Sarajevo is rising like a phoenix from the ashes to become a top tourist destination in the Balkans.

This is where east meets west, where cultures, cuisines, and religions collide head on, and where the convoluted history is just as intriguing as contemporary life.

It could be the most underrated city in the Balkans, so to inspire your next adventure, here’s our ultimate travel guide to Sarajevo.

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Table of Contents

How to get to Sarajevo

It might be the capital and largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but Sarajevo isn’t necessarily the most well connected of destinations. You’ll need to be a little more intrepid getting here, but it’s well worth the effort.

There are flights to many major European cities, however options are limited, although regularly expanding. Most of these are scheduled flights rather than cheaper flights with budget airlines, who have yet to really expand to Sarajevo.

Even from many major hubs such as London or Paris, you will likely need to transit through Croatia or Germany, or perhaps even Istanbul.

There are irregular trains to Mostar, and to Zagreb, and most travellers might find it best to arrive by bus if they are planning on travelling overland and including Sarajevo as part of a wider Balkans travel itinerary.

Buses are much more frequent than trains and can connect you to Mostar and to cities within the Republika Srpska to the north. There are regular international routes to most neighboring Balkan nations too.

What to expect in Sarajevo

Sarajevo is very different to most European cities, because historically, this is a city with more Eastern influences than western. The dominant religion is Islam, a fact that caused huge tensions that degenerated into ethnic conflict in the 1990s, as Christian Serbs fought Muslim Bosnians.

The war ended many years ago but the signs of destruction are still seen everywhere, be it bullet holes or cemeteries. This is a city that wants to look forward though and you’ll find that many Bosnians are willing to share their war experiences while at the same time being welcoming to foreigners.

That being said, be careful what you say about the war and what you say about Serbia.

The local language is Bosnian, which for practical purposes is very similar to Serbian or Croatian, and uses the Latin script when written. You will find that levels of English are increasing however it might be difficult to find people who speak the language proficiently.

In fact, if you don’t speak the local language then it’s more likely to meet someone in Sarajevo who speaks German than many other foreign languages.

The local currency is the Convertible Mark , however you will find that most touristy establishments would also freely accept Euros.

How to get around Sarajevo  

Sarajevo is a relatively compact city, and it’s more than possible to spend most of your time walking from one major sight to the next. Bare in mind though, that Sarajevo is also surrounded by mountains and in many places, especially the Old Town, the streets can be exceptionally hilly.

You’ll definitely need to be fit for a whole day of walking in Sarajevo but it’s a great way to see the city.

The airport and the main bus stations are all a short journey away by public transport and you can make use of the bus and the tram system to get around the city. The tram is particularly useful and very easy to navigate.

Taxis are prolific across the city, however be sure to know your address and ask the driver to put on the meter as taxis scams can be far too common.

The best time to visit Sarajevo

Sarajevo can be visited anytime of the year, especially if you’re looking for a city break, however you do need to be aware of the at the times extreme differences in temperature that come with each season.

Famously, Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, and that’s because the relatively high altitude of the city ensures that the surrounding mountains see a lot of snow in the latter months of the year. It can become bitterly cold from November through to March, but for winter sports lovers it can be perfect.

In comparison, summer can be hot, with temperatures rising into the 30s. If you’re interested in hiking the surrounding mountains and seeing the city at its most colourful and active then the summer months are the time to be here. As with anywhere in Europe though, the summer season from June through to September is always going to be the busiest and most expensive time of the year to visit.

Things to do in Sarajevo 

One of the top tourist attractions in Sarajevo is Bascarsija, or the Old Town.

This is the most historic part of the city, dating back to the 15th century, and it’s here that you’ll find the most beautiful Ottoman era buildings, as well as the lively bazaar where you can find local souvenirs and excellent local food.

Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque  

The Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque is one of the most important landmarks in the city, and it’s here that you can admire both the Islamic and Ottoman heritage at its finest extant.

The mosque was constructed in 1532 to be the centre of religious life in the city and it still continues to this day to be the main place of worship for Sarajevo’s majority Muslim population.

Sebilj Fountain

Another historic must-see is the Sebilj Fountain, a beautiful remnant of the Ottoman era.

This wooden fountain is located in the heart of the Old Town and somehow survived for centuries from the mid 18th century when it was first constructed.

Yellow Fortress

History buffs also won’t want to miss out on a visit to the Yellow Fortress , an iconic defensive position constructed in the early 18th century.

It was built by the ottomans to defend the frontier of their vast empire against the encroaching Austro-Hungarians, although it failed to stop the city’s eventual takeover.

Sarajevo Tunnel

Located on the outskirts of the city, the Sarajevo Tunnel is a remnant of the long Siege of Sarajevo that the city suffered during the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s.

Surrounded on all sides the Bosnians had no choice but to dig what became known as the Tunnel of Hope, in order to reach the surrounded city itself. Today, part of the tunnel is preserved as a museum and a memorial  

Latin Bridge

The Latin Bridge spans the Miljacka River and dates back to at least the 16th century.

An iconic work of architecture in itself, the bridge is best known for being the location of the assassination of Arch Duke Franz Ferdinand in 1914, the momentous event that set off a chain reaction leading to World War 1.

Sarajevo Roses

Across the city, you’ll see parts of the pavement are coloured pink or red, marking the sites where locals were killed during the Siege of Sarajevo in the 1990s.

Known as the Sarajevo Roses, these simple yet moving tributes show the course of the war and the suffering endured by the local population during the long siege.

Mount Trebevic

Above the city, a well worn hiking treika leads through the hills to Mount Trebevic, which offers a sweeping panorama of Sarajevo.

The mountain top is also where the 1984 Winter Olympics bobsleigh track can be found too, although today it’s entirely abandoned in the woods alongside the path to the summit.

You can in fact follow the concrete contours of the bobsleigh track to Mount Trebevic, which makes for a unique outing from the city itself.

What to eat in Sarajevo

The cuisine that you’ll find in Sarajevo is an eclectic mix that can trace its influences across Europe and the East. The food in Sarajevo is a mix of delicacies left behind by the many empires and people that have made the city their own over the centuries, from Turkish through to Austrian.

For starters, you’ll find lots of street food across the city and while at first it might just seem like a whole lot of meat, bread and kebabs, it will soon grow on you if you’re not a vegetarian. Cevapi is the national dish, and although it’s just grilled meat and bread the locals can never get enough of it.

You can also try local favourites such as the Bosnian Pot, a delicious stew that’s rich in meat, vegetables, and spices. You can try the Boreks, a pastry left over by the Ottomans, or indulge in plenty of Baklava.

Bosnian coffee is well known for its strength, while if you’re looking for an alcoholic tipple then you won’t be in the city long before you’re plied with Rakija, the fierce spirit that’s found across the Balkans.

Where to stay in Sarajevo

Budget – Sarajevo is an inexpensive city to visit by western standards and the low costs ensure that there’s plenty of budget accommodation to be found. One of the best hostels in the city is Hostel Franz Ferdinand , named for the infamous Austrian whose death sparked a war.

Midrange – there are countless small hotels, guesthouses and Air BnB options to be found across Sarajevo. The City Boutique Hotel is an excellent option if you’re looking to stay in the Old Town, while a more central favourite is the Hotel Central Sarajevo .

Luxury – luxury options won’t be quite as prevalent as other European cities, but the luxury options that do exist are often excellent value and usually found in incredibly historic buildings. Located in the Old Town, the famed Hotel Europe is one such establishment, dating back well over a century.

Tours to do in Sarajevo

Free walking tour.

One of the best and cheapest ways to explore Sarajevo is by joining a free walking tour of the city. You’ll have the chance to see Sarajevo’s most famous sights, from the modern city centre right into the Old Town. These tours are always led by enthusiastic locals, but at the end of the day, if you don’t enjoy yourself then you still only pay exactly how much you feel the experience was actually worth.

Sarajevo War Tour

It’s hard to visit Sarajevo and not learn about the war . It was very recent, and still very much within living memory and you’ll still find scars across the city

The war history is complex and convoluted though, and many travellers find that the only real way to learn more and to attempt to understand the Siege of Sarajevo and the conflict that erupted in the 1990s is to actually learn from the locals who were there.

It’s moving and at times difficult, but a Sarajevo War Tour is one way to better understand the city and its recent history.

Franz Ferdinand Tour

Sarajevo is also well known for being the city where Archduke Franz Ferdinand, of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, was assassinated in 1914

A Franz Ferdinand tour will take you to all the sights associated with that fateful day and the repercussions after, and you’ll be able to better visualize and understand how this one event proved to be the catalyst for World War 1.

Day trips from Sarajevo

Mostar is one of the most gorgeous cities in the Balkans, and it’s found just a day trip away , lying on the turquoise waters of the Neretva River.

The city is famed for its Ottoman era bridge, and you’ll find the locals will dive from the high stone work right into the water below. The city is charming but much of it had to be rebuilt after the war in the 1990s, and like Sarajevo, you’ll still find the scars there today.

If you want to see firsthand the brutal damage that the war caused in the 1999s, then take a sombre day trip to Srebrenica .

For many, this is more of a pilgrimage or an educational outing, similar to visiting the likes of Auschwitz in Eastern Europe. Srebrenica is where many ethnic Bosnians were massacred by ethnic Serbs during the Bosnian war, and today the memorial and graves continue to move later generations.

Olympic Mountains

Sarajevo is surrounded by high mountains and in winter they become perfect for snow sports.

Take a day trip to the Olympic Mountains for superb views and outdoor activities. The mountains were the location of many of the events in the 1984 Winter Olympics, and it makes for a more relaxing change from all that war history.

Recommended tours in Sarajevo

• Modern World Longest Siege – Siege of Sarajevo Half-day Tour
• Full-Day Tour from Sarajevo to Herzegovina with Mostar, Blagaj Dervish House, Pocitelj, Jablanica, and Konjic
• Lukomir Highland Village Tour and Hike from Sarajevo
• Mostar and Herzegovina Cities Day Tour from Sarajevo
• Jajce with Pliva lakes and Travnik day tour from Sarajevo
• Private tour: Balkans dark side – Tunnel of Hope
• Understanding Srebrenica Genocide – Full Day Study Trip from Sarajevo
• Tito’s Bunker Tour
• Fall of Yugoslavia, Sarajevo War Tour
• Lukomir Village tour from Sarajevo
• Sarajevo Morning Coffee, Tea and Market tour

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Sam, a seasoned traveler across four continents and 49 countries, is a leading authority in travel planning. Her website, Travelling King, offers tailored itineraries and expert guides for seamless trips. Sam's expertise in luxury travel, fast travel, and destination guides keeps her at the forefront of the travel community.

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The Backpacker’s Travel Guide to Sarajevo, Bosnia | 2023

It did not take long for Sarajevo to become one of my favorite cities in the Balkans. Despite being a smaller city, Sarajevo packs one hell of a punch. I can’t think of many cities that have as much character and personality as Sarajevo. Oozing with history, culture, and beauty, Sarajevo is truly a special place. Throw in vibrant nightlife, beautiful hiking trails, and an affordable cost of living, and you’ve got yourself as backpacker-friendly of a city as you can imagine. Be sure to include Sarajevo on your Balkan backpacking itinerary.

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Table of Contents

• What To Know Before Going to Sarajevo

How To Get To Sarajevo

Where to stay in sarajevo.

• The Best Things To Do in Sarajevo

Food and Nightlife in Sarajevo

What to know before going to sarajevo and bosnia.

Sarajevo is a great entry point to the country of Bosnia. I’m not just saying that because it is the cheapest place to fly into, either. As the capital and largest city of Bosnia, it’s a great place to get your feet set and slowly immerse yourself into Bosnia’s culture, language, and way of life. It’s easy to get by in Sarajevo with just English. Your hostel or hotel receptionist will definitely speak English, as will most restaurant and museum staff within the city center. From there, you can slowly begin to delve deeper into Bosnia.

The currency of Bosnia is the Bosnian Mark, which has a value of about half a euro. Bosnia and Herzegovina isn’t a member of the European Union yet, although it has applied for membership. The cost of living in Bosnia is very low, making it a great budget-friendly European destination. You can easily live off of less than $20 a day in Bosnia, including accommodation and food. The people in Bosnia are among the friendliest that I’ve encountered in my travels. They are very welcoming and hospitable to travelers.

As far as COVID entry requirements, Bosnia doesn’t seem to have any. I crossed over into Bosnia from Montenegro and they literally didn’t even check my passport. Leaving Bosnia into Croatia was a bit stricter, as can be expected since Croatia is part of the E.U. Visiting Sarajevo during COVID felt pretty normal, although nightlife was still relatively shut down. Masks were “required” in most indoor establishments like grocery stores and museums, although a lot of places were a lot more relaxed about it. Bosnia does have a large Muslim population, but Sarajevo overall is pretty liberal and relaxed. Unless you’re going to mosques, you won’t have to dress a certain way. Alcohol is still served pretty much everywhere in Sarajevo, along with the multitude of hookah bars.

Oh, and before you go, make sure to have good travel insurance handy whenever you’re out adventuring. I use  SafetyWing  to keep me covered throughout my travels for as low as $40 a month.

As the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo is pretty easily accessible. Flights, trains, and buses all stop by this bustling Balkan city.

Getting to Sarajevo By Flight

Sarajevo has an airport and you’ll be able to find cheap flights to and from Sarajevo from most major European cities. The airport is just 12 kilometers away from downtown Sarajevo. The taxi will cost around 10 euros, or you can catch the local bus for 1 euro. The ride should take about 30 minutes either way, so I’d recommend saving a little money and just hopping on the airport bus.

Getting to Sarajevo By Bus

Buses are the cheapest and most common way to get to and from Sarajevo. Buses are pretty straightforward, so I won’t go into detail. Although accurate timetables can’t really be found online for the Balkan countries, you can use Rome2Rio or busticket4.me to get an idea of bus schedules and departures.

Getting to Sarajevo By Train

Bosnia hasn’t developed their rail system as well as other European countries. It is possible to get to Sarajevo by train, though. If you’re coming from Mostar, Sarajevo is only a couple of hours away. Zagreb also has trains to and from Sarajevo, and is much better connected to the rest of Europe. Zagreb is another cool capital city that is worth the visit, so if you’re stopping through there, you can get to Sarajevo directly from their train station.

How To Get Around Sarajevo

Sarajevo has a great public transportation system, consisting of buses and trams. If you don’t feel like walking, you don’t have to. For most travelers though, walking should do just fine. Sarajevo is not that big of a city. If you’re staying somewhere centrally located in downtown Sarajevo, you won’t have much need for public transportation. Maybe you’ll take the cable cars up to Trebenic Mountain, but aside from that, most of Sarajevo’s attractions are within walking distance. It’s a smaller city, so unless you’re staying in the suburbs, your feet should be able to take you everywhere you need to go.

Sarajevo has no shortage of hostels to choose from. Whether you want to be right in the heart of all the action, or tucked away in a quieter neighborhood, Sarajevo’s got something for you.

Hostel Kucha

Hostel Kucha is where I stayed, and nice as it is, boy was it a walk to get up here. It’s part of the I Travel Balkans network of hostels, a network that I grew to trust throughout my time in the Balkans. Kucha is clean, modern, and beautifully-designed. The staff are super welcoming and dedicated to making sure that travelers have an excellent experience in Sarajevo. Like I mentioned, it is a short but steep hike up from the city center. Thankfully, if your legs are too tired from exploring Sarajevo, public transportation is also an option. A bus drops you off at the bakery across from Hostel Kucha. Ask reception for the details. Hostel Kucha is worth the walk.

Hostel Balkan Han

This hostel was recommended to me, but I opted for Hostel Kucha. At times, I wish I stayed here because its location is much more ideal. Hostel Balkan Han is right in the center of Sarajevo, putting you steps away from all of the action.

Sarajevo is a year-round destination, and doesn’t really experience the high seasons and inflated prices that the coastal destinations of the Balkans experience. Finding accommodation in Sarajevo is very easy and affordable, with hostel dorms starting as low as $7. Of course, feel free to splurge a little bit and book one of the nicer places that I mentioned above. Sarajevo is as backpacker-friendly as it gets.

View All Hostels in Sarajevo

The Best Things to do in Sarajevo

Sarajevo has a ton of stuff to do. The insane amount of history that happened here is mind-blowing and often heartbreaking. One can’t visit Sarajevo without doing their best to immerse themselves in its history and culture. Boasting centuries and centuries of history, Sarajevo might be one of the most intriguing cities in Europe.

Take A Free Walking Tour of Sarajevo

I love free walking tours, especially in cities with an intense history. One can walk around Sarajevo and see the sights, but without knowing the stories and significance behind its locations, it doesn’t mean anything. There are a few walking tours you can do, but I’d recommend taking a walking tour centered around the war. My hostel recommended the company Sarajevo Walking Tours . They run free walking tours, which by now you know means you just tip them whatever you feel they were worth at the end. The two tours recommended by my hostel were East Meets West and War Scars. The first one focuses more on Sarajevo and its history, and the second one focuses more on the war and its impact.

The Abandoned Bobsled and Luge Track

Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, and the mountains surrounding Sarajevo became home to skiers, snowboarders, and bobsledders. Ten years later, those same mountains would be used by the Serbs as they sieged Sarajevo for four years. These days, the mountain is used mainly by hikers, but remnants of the past still remain. One of Sarajevo’s most popular attractions is the abandoned bobsled track at the top of Trebenic Mountain. I don’t know why this was so cool, but it was. If you take the cable car or hike up Trebenic Mountain , you’ll find the abandoned Olympic bobsled and luge track. You can spend an hour or so walking along this track and taking some artsy photos. It’s pretty cool to see, and definitely one of the more unique hikes I’ve ever done.

Hike Around Trebenic Mountain

Aside from the abandoned bobsled track, Trebenic Mountain has plenty of great hiking trails. You can hike up there from the city, but I’d recommend taking the scenic cable car ride. You can go for a round trip ride or take a one-way and hike back down. Once you get up here, you’ll find maps showing all the hiking trails in the area. It’s a great way to get out of the city and into nature.

Roam Through the Neighborhood of Bascarsija

You’re naturally going to end up here, as it is Sarajevo’s most central and picturesque neighborhood. It has a very cool vibe to it, and has often been compared to like Istanbul-lite. Well, Istanbul-lite-lite-lite, because Sarajevo is much tinier than Istanbul. This is the area you’ll want to spend time in if you like to wander, eat, learn about history, and shop. Basically, this is simply where you’ll want to be.

Go Museum Hopping

Even if you’re not the type of traveler who likes museums, Sarajevo has a few that can’t be missed. Here are some of my favorites.

Galeria 11/07/95

This small museum gives you an in-depth look at the Siege of Sarajevo. It takes an alternative angle, so along with the memorials to those lost in the siege and genocide, it also gives a look at how the Sarajevans adapted to life during those long years.

Museum of Crimes Against Humanity

This was one of the most gruesome museums I have ever been to in my life. Be warned, it is not for the faint of heart. The pictures are raw and unfiltered, and are often NSFL. The stories you’ll read about the war and genocide here are devastating.

The other museums you can visit in Sarajevo are the Museum of Sarajevo 1878-1918, which covers Austro-Hungarian rule of Bosnia up until World War I. The National Gallery, National Museum, The Olympic Museum, and The War Childhood Museum are a few others that you can check out while you’re in Sarajevo.

Latin Bridge

I mean, you can’t really do much at a bridge besides cross it, but Latin Bridge has quite a bit of significance. Right after crossing this bridge, Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated. If you took your history classes, you know what that led to. World War I shortly followed. You might just stumble upon this bridge while roaming around, but it’s a can’t-miss, both for the views and the history.

Cemeteries of Sarajevo

While dark and depressing, visiting some of the cemeteries in Sarajevo can be a very eye-opening experience. There are a few of them throughout the city, and you really can’t miss them. Amidst the red roofs and beautiful neighborhoods, you’ll find vast plots of green dotted with white gravestones. It really hits home just how devastating the genocide, Bosnian war, and siege of Sarajevo were.

I loved the food in Sarajevo. Bosnia is one of the most budget-friendly countries in Europe. I did not hesitate to treat myself to nice meals for the price of cheap takeaways in Western Europe. The historic neighborhood of Bascarsija will be your best bet for finding traditional Bosnian food. Byreks are the main fare in Bosnia. Each Balkan country will claim that they have the best byrek, but I think Bosnia probably has the strongest claim. Make sure to ask for the sour cream that comes with the byrek because it will transform your experience. Cevapi is another must-have dish in Sarajevo.

I didn’t get to experience Sarajevo’s nightlife much, as things were still relatively restricted due to COVID. There is definitely an underground nightlife scene, though. Sarajevo is just one of those cities where I know they have some crazy raves in a bunker or abandoned castle or something. I see myself going back to Sarajevo time and time again, so I’ll update this when I do finally get to go wild. For now, here’s a nightlife guide to Sarajevo .

Sarajevo is not to be missed. I was underwhelmed by other Balkan capitals such as Tirana and Podgorica, but dang, was Sarajevo cool.

Buy Me A Beer!

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4 thoughts on “ the backpacker’s travel guide to sarajevo, bosnia | 2023 ”.

Hey!! Loved your post you should come to Pakistan and especially visit the northern areas of Pakistan i promise you will Love it there.

I am going to Pakistan next month!

Hello, I will visit Sarajevo this summer, I don’t want to carry a lot of luggage. Are there laundries?

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Additional information, tourist information, arriving to sarajevo.

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International Airport Sarajevo Kurta Schorka 36 Tel. 28 91 00 More information:  www.sarajevo-airport.ba

The airport is 12 km from the city center. The Airport Bus connects the Sarajevo center and Sarajevo International Airport, and there are several other transport options between the city and the airport. All information about the bus timetable can be found at http://www.sarajevo-airport.ba/vijest.php?id=468. The one-way fare is 5,00 KM, and 8,00 KM in both directions.

Otherwise, the taxi will take you to the city at a price of approx. 20 KM. In cold months, early morning flights may be delayed or canceled, as the area sometimes covers heavy fog until late in the morning or later.

Working hours: 05:00 – 23:00

Tourists at this airport come with a number of regular, seasonal and charter flights from the company: Turkish Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa, Air Serbia, Adria Airways, Eurowings, Atlas Global, Flydubai, Germanwings, Pegasus, Air Arabia, Wizz Air ….

Sarajevo International Bus Station The Way of Life 8, Tel. +387 33 21 31 00, +387 33 21 30 10 More information:  www.centrotrans.com

Bus buses from many European cities come from the bus station Sarajevo. Recently, cooperation with the international bus company Flixbus (www.flixbus.com) has been established. Intercity lines every day from Sarajevo: Banja Luka, Bihać, Fojnica, Jajce, Medjugorje, Travnik, Tuzla, Visoko, Zenica and other cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Bus station Lukavica Address: Srpska vladara 2 Phone: +387 57 31 73 77

Intercity lines every day from Lukavica: Srebrenica, Trebinje, Višegrad, as well as Belgrade, Niš, Novi Sad, Herceg Novi, Podgorica

Sarajevo is located in the central part of Bosnia and Herzegovina and is linked to the transversal of the two most important main routes in the region; Adriatic highway and car – via Zagreb – Belgrade.

There are many beautiful landscapes, roads tend to be quiet, and there are plenty of high quality places to stop drinks or meals. Some of the best restaurants in the state are right next to the main road. There is little chance to spend gasoline in the middle of a niggard, as there are many gas stations along all major routes. Equally nice number of insured garage. For relatively little money, an “automaker” will make repairs, and a “vulcanizer” will repair your tire.

If you use parts of highway A1 from Zenica, you will pay the toll of Zenica – Sarajevo 6,00 KM.

If you travel A1 from Sarajevo to Mostar, the section of the Sarajevo highway (Vlakovo – Tarčin you will pay BAM 2,50.

When traveling with your car, if your green card does not apply to Bosnia and Herzegovina, you must take out insurance at the border crossing. Rules like those in the European Union are in place. Speed limits are marked according to standardized rules. Permissible speeds: in settlements 60 km / h; outside the inhabited areas 80 km / h; on the highway 120 km / h.

In the period from November to April, winter driving rules apply, so pay attention to the skidding of the road and the possibility of heavy snowfall.

In the event of a breakdown on the road, assistance will be provided by the Bosch Automotive Motor Club, BIHAMK by calling 1282. For international calls, please use +387 33 282 ( www.bihamk.ba )

Sarajevo – Mostar – 130 km Sarajevo – Belgrade – 310 km Sarajevo – Dubrovnik – 238 km Sarajevo – Zagreb – 403 km

Railway station FBIH Put života 2 Tel: +387 33 65 53 30 More information:  www.zfbh.ba

The main train station is a 10-minute walk from the center of town. In the immediate vicinity of the station there is a taxi stand, bus and tram station. If you are going to Baščaršija choose tram number 1 or tram number 4 in the direction of Ilidža.

Train lovers have regular daily lines to: Banja Luka, Mostar, Capljina, Zenica, Kakanj and Konjica.

We recommend: By train from Sarajevo to Mostar, you will experience a true adventure through over 100 natural tunnels located along the beautiful green landscape and the emerald canyon of the Neretva River.

Visit Sarajevo

Tourist Information

Useful information, additional information, publications, mobile application, offline city guide.

Visit Sarajevo App is an offline City Guide of Sarajevo with interactive map you can carry in your pocket. 

EVERYBODY LOVES SARAJEVO

Top Attractions

Bascarsija & Sebilj

Ottoman era begins in 1461 when the city was founded by the first Bosnian governor Ishak-beg Isaković (Ishak Bay Isaković), a pioneer in planned construction.

The new government displays superiority with large buildings. Aleksandar Vitek and Ćiril Iveković work on the design for Vijećnica (City Hall)

Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque

Another permanent stamp was left by Gazi Husrev Beg (Gazi Husrev Bey), triple Bosnian Steward and Builder.In 1530, with his own money, he built the most monumental building of Islamic culture in B&H

Orthodox Church

As Orthodox grew in numbers, so did the need to build a new church. It took over a decade to build one and it was completed in the last years of the Ottoman rule in 1874.

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Welcome to Courtyard Sarajevo

Uncover the best of sarajevo from our city center hotel.

Courtyard Sarajevo welcomes both business and leisure travelers to Bosnia and Herzegovina with modern hotel rooms and suites, an unbeatable location in the city center and first-class service. Each of our spacious hotel rooms offers thoughtful amenities like a 42-inch flat-screen TV, complimentary Wi-Fi access, a mini-fridge and a coffee maker. Partake in specialty cocktails at our immaculately decorated, opulent S One Sky Lounge, which boasts sweeping panoramic views of Bosnia and Herzegovina's capital city. We also feature an exquisite signature restaurant, a 24-hour fitness center and a handy on-site market. Choose our hotel for your business meeting, wedding, or social occasion to benefit from contemporary, light-filled venue spaces and dedicated planning services. Thanks to our outstanding setting in the city center, you'll have no trouble exploring the area; we're steps from the historic Old Town, and near top-quality museums, shopping and dining. Elevate your travel experience at Courtyard Sarajevo.

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Check-in: 3:00 pm

Check-out: 12:00 pm

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Pets welcome with non-refundable fee of EUR 50 per stay

Non-Refundable Pet Fee Per Stay: €50

Maximum Number of Pets in Room: 1

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Sample flavorsome international fare at our S One Restaurant. This Sarajevo favorite features a welcoming restaurant atmosphere and a diverse menu; join us for a delectable meal after a busy day in the city.

S One Sky Lounge

Take in mesmerizing 360-degree views of Sarajevo while enjoying the sophisticated ambiance of S One Sky Lounge. Our rooftop lounge boasts a full selection of craft cocktails and a panoramic elevator.

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Open 24 hours a day for your convenience, The Market in our Sarajevo hotel offers an array of snacks, cold beverages and sundries whenever you need them.

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Skenderija 1, Sarajevo, Bosnia Herzegovina, 71000

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Languages spoken by staff: English, German, Croatian, Hungarian, Russian

For more information about the physical features of our accessible rooms, common areas or special services relating to a specific disability please call +387 33-954500

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Entrance to On-Site Business Center is Accessible

Entrance to On-Site Fitness Center is Accessible

Main Entrance is Accessible

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Carbon Footprint: 21.88 kg per room night

Water Footprint: 407.44 liters per room night

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The check-in time at Courtyard Sarajevo is 3:00 pm and the check-out time is 12:00 pm.

The pet policy at Courtyard Sarajevo is:

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A Sculpture Inspired by Global Conflicts

For Sejla Kameric, a fiberglass white flag represents not surrender, but a plea for peace.

By Ginanne Brownell

In April 1992, just before Sejla Kameric turned 16, her hometown, Sarajevo, came under siege for almost four years.

The war in Bosnia, in which her father and two uncles were killed, cast a shadow on Kameric, a multimedia artist who has examined war, peace, belonging and otherness in her oeuvre over the last 25 years.

Now, 32 years since Sarajevo became a symbol of the dissolution and destruction of Yugoslavia, her sculpture “Cease,” a shredded white flag made of fiberglass, has been installed at half-staff on the flagpole in the Campo Santo Stefano square in Venice.

Kameric, who divides her time between Sarajevo, Berlin and the Croatian coast, has a busy year ahead with a big solo show at Cukrarna Gallery in Ljubljana, Slovenia, in June and another exhibition opening at the Museum of Contemporary Art of Montenegro , in Podgorica, in September.

Aside from promoting a retrospective book of her self-portraits and textiles that was released last year, she is also working on an exhibition and theater performance with the La MaMa Experimental Theater Club in New York, which will open next year. She spoke about her career thus far in a video interview, which has been edited and condensed.

How did the idea for “Cease” come about?

I was having a conversation with architect and curator Giulia Foscari about how the physicality of a flagpole is kind of like a pavilion. If countries do not have a pavilion, then we can have nations use a flagpole to run works up and down it. That is where the conversation started.

Coming from a place like Sarajevo, does the white flag have an even deeper meaning for you?

It is just very simple: Humanity has lost the plot. The simple symbol of surrender or peace or putting your hands up, the kid that is holding a white flag, how can you shoot the kid who’s holding a white flag? A few weeks ago, Pope Francis caused outrage by saying Ukraine should wave the white flag. But it is not about surrender. It’s about saying, “I don’t accept the violence.” We really have to change this paradigm in which victims are not the weak ones, victims are the ones who refuse to be violent.

A lot of critics of the Venice Biennale say that it’s very political in terms of how countries choose the artists to represent their pavilions. You come from a very politicized region. Do you feel that politics often gets mixed up with art?

A country that is divided cannot implement anything, so it starts to use art as a political tool. As a young artist, I had this attitude where I said: “OK, my country doesn’t exist anymore. The Yugoslavian pavilion is occupied now with Serbia or Montenegro. This idea of the national pavilion doesn’t resonate with me; I think it’s wrong. It’s something that we should question and I’m not sure that I would ever be a part of the national pavilion.”

And then obviously, a few decades after I was thinking I can be subversive. Coming from this small nation in Europe, we could send a different message. We could talk about this diversity and these complex national ideas like “What is this European otherness that exists?”

While your “Bosnian Girl” project at the time it was released, about 20 years ago, felt very specific to the postwar mood in the region, there is now a universality to the piece — dehumanizing people by making them an “other.” Do you agree?

Yes, absolutely. Finally with time, it can be accepted as it was made. The piece itself did not change but now the reading is different.

I very often had to fight the same prejudice from those who liked the work, because they thought that because when I made the work, I was only a Bosnian girl. Like “You made that and it’s only this”; that is the context. It was painful to see the popularity of the work.

Many perspectives that were coming from the West were really excluding the conversation about general prejudice and otherness because it is not only about a particular geographical place or a particular war or gender. It is about seeing different shades.

Looking back over your career, is there anything that you would do differently?

I constantly reflect on how and what I did. And yes, I would change many things. Every time I make something I am like, “Oh, maybe I would tweak this or that.” So it is a constant, I wouldn’t say doubt, but a reflection of how something could have happened and what that is.

But what stayed or remained true is that I reacted to the circumstances in which I was in. None of us have the privilege to do things in a different way once they have happened, but what we can choose is to accept all the good and bad mistakes. If I could live different lives, I would probably have one life dedicated only to photography and another life dedicated to dance. I would change only the circumstances in which I had to operate. And they would, you know, probably be more peaceful.

Inside the Venice Biennale

The 2024 venice biennale features work by more than 330 participating artists from some 90 countries scattered throughout the city..

Photos:  Our photographer is on the ground covering the spectacle that makes the Biennale  one of the premier events in the art world’s global calendar.

Critiquing and Representing the U.S.:  Jeffrey Gibson’s history-making turn at the Biennale  brings the gay and Native American artist center stage with works of struggle and freedom.

Protests Go On:  Israel’s exhibition was already closed after its artist refused to display her work  until there was a cease-fire and hostage deal in Gaza. But that didn’t calm the discontent .

Can Adriano Pedrosa Save the Biennale?:  Balancing diplomacy and geopolitics is hardly new for the first Biennale curator from Latin America. He isn’t scared to make a strong statement  on contemporary art.

A Match Made in Venice:  An American institution is sponsoring an exhibition by a Chinese artist in collaboration with a Japanese architect at a centuries-old Venetian building. Here’s how Tadao Ando and Zeng Fanzhi came together .

Criticism Meets Optimism:  The group show “Nigeria Imaginary” will be one of the most ambitious African presentations  ever at the Biennale.

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Sarajevo Destination Festival 2024 – b2b business meetings

• Brokerage event
• 26 April 2024, 00:00 CEST - 26 April 2024, 23:59 CEST
• Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Practical information

Description.

Sarajevo Economic Region Development Agency SERDA and Entreprise Europe Network in Bosnia and Herzegovina (EEN), with the support of the Sarajevo Fair and numerous international organizations and agencies for development and promotion of tourism, is organizing b2b business meetings within the international tourism fair "Sarajevo Destination Festival 2024" ( 25-27 April 2024).

Sarajevo Destination Festival 2024 – b2b business meetings will be held on the second day of the fair, April 26, 2024 in the Skenderija Center, Sarajevo with an aim to create possibilities for making new business contacts and finding international partners for cooperation and business projects. Participants can arrange meetings in line with their needs and interests, and negotiate possibilities of cooperation.

SARAJEVO DESTINATION FESTIVAL by SARAJEVO TRAVEL FEST is a gathering place for tourist communities and the entire tourism industry in order to promote individual tourist destinations in the countries of the region, the Balkans and Europe, as well as the world. The Festival program is including conference and professional lectures as well as numerous presentations, gastronomic, folklore, musical and other contents. The Festival will be an ideal opportunity to spend your days in the company of international tourism organizations/communities, hoteliers, guides, tour operators, influencers and other tourism actors, but also to get to know the city of Sarajevo and enjoy its hospitality.

For more information about the fair, visit the website: https://destinationfestival.ba/

Target groups of the Festival and b2b meetings:

- Tourist communities and organizations - Tourist agencies - Hotels, boarding houses and catering establishments - Potential investors in the tourism industry - Manufacturers and traders of hotel and catering furniture, techniques and equipment - Professional organizations and associations - Media - Users of tourist services - Other representatives of the tourism industry

Why participate in b2b meetings: - Find partners for cooperation and business projects - Expand your network of partners - Exchange experiences with other actors in tourism and find new ideas for your business - Hold up to 15 meetings in one day - Registration and participation in b2b business meetings are free and include: - Schedule of meetings for each individual registered participant (pre-arranged 20-minute bilateral meetings) - Information package delivered on the day of business meetings - EEN staff support before, during and after business meetings

Venue: Skenderija Center, Terezija bb, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Agenda for April 26, 2024: 09:45 – 10:00 Registration of participants of b2b meetings at the SERDA/EEN stand 10:00 – 12:00 Bilateral meetings on the SERDA/EEN stand area 12:00 – 12:40 Sarajevo Destination Festival 2024 opening ceremony 12:40 – 15:00 Bilateral meetings on the SERDA/EEN stand area

Deadlines: - March 25 – April 24, 2024: Online registration of participants via b2b web platform - March 25 - April 24, 2024: Overview of registered participants and booking of b2b meetings via b2b web platform - April 26, 2024: b2b business meetings

For more information and support please contact: Sarajevo Economic Region Development Agency SERDA/Enterprise Europe Network, Aida Džamalija Duran, tel: +387 33 652 935, e-mail: [email protected] .

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