1995 safari trek diesel review

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The Good, the Bad, & the Ugly on the 6.5

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This weekend I'm going to look at a 1997 6.5 GMC Sierra with low miles and wanted to know if the 6.5 is a solid, reliable engine and if it has any issues. I need a truck to put a camper on (about 2200-2400 lbs) and pull a boat/snowmachine trailer. I owned an '02 Duramax and know they were notorious for injector problems, although I never had any issues with mine, and it had low miles. I sold it to afford to move, so I'm back in the market for a cheaper truck. Does the 6.5 have any significant problems that I need to look for? How is the tranny in the 6.5? Any comments, good, bad, or otherwise, about the 6.5 and what to look out for? I did search the archives and couldn't find shite. Thanks, Tim  

welcome to the 'Place. did you use the search function? it will help you find loads of information on the 6.5. the 6.5 was given a bad reputation for "injector pump" issues but it was the PMD on the 94 and up 6.5 that would fail from heat soak. there are aftermarket fixes for this issue as every 94 and up 6.5 has this issue at one point or another. try the search bar out and you'd be surprised at what you'd find. i don't think i can fit all the info in one post. good luck on your purchase and welcome again. :welcome:  

iamdave0887 said: .... it was the PMD on the 94 and up 6.5 that would fail from heat soak. Click to expand...

PMD= Pump mounted driver. There are several vendors on the site that sell after market kits to relocate them. But a must is to get it out of the engine compartment. Heath is a very respectable vendor and has the best warranty around. IMO heath has the best pmd relocator around!  

I'm Happy Oil Pressure switch, lift pump and vac pump are the other three things that might get you. The oil pressure switch powers the lift pump, and sometimes fails. I have rewired mine with a relay and it has been fine. Lift pumps them selves are as with any car, get weak after time, and all of a sudden you just running out of fuel at full throttle. The last on list is vac, it runs the waste gate, with out it you got no boost. I would get a TurboMaster or Make one as I did, with help from site, pull the pump, then you have no worries about it. I got my truck for $2900, with 130k on it, I have since put over 15k on it, most of which has had a 5k and up trailer on the back of it. Usually gets 14-15mpg towing, 18-20mpg empty on road, depending on driving speed. For all the bad you hear about them, I really enjoy driving it. With the straight pipe, it is awesome to listen too.  

PMD becomes a FSD (fuel solenoid driver) when remote mounted. As long as you will relocate it, don't hesitate and put it outside engine bay. Never mount it on the side of the intake : what kills the PMD is the heat peak when you shut the engine. While the engine is running, the PMD is cooled by the flow of fuel passing through the IP (injection pump), a kind of liquid cooling. When you shut off, no more cooling, and plenty of heat. Remote mounting the PMD on the side of the intake will have the same effect  

Spaghetti Westerns are what life is about! This FAQ really does cover it all: FAQ I think searching the archives is best for specific issues, but the above FAQ is good to get you all the information you need before a purchase. Jon  

The good-Bad rep makes them cheap, Best sounding diesel out there, 21 mpg highway is possible with the right combo,cheap parts, with the right mods it can be a decent tow vehicle. Classic body style IMO The bad-Weak tow rating out of the box, walking may be faster The Ugly-Improper maintanence can lead to costly repairs but the same can be said about most cars, last made 8 years ago and first made 14 years ago so a lot are beaters or have an ugly color scheme.  

I had no major problems with my 6.5 since i bought it(2+ years). It's a good engine as long as your familiar with the common issues associated with it. Let it breathe and relocate the PMD and you should be swell. You said your looking at a '97, it comes with dual thermostats which will help with any cooling issues. One thing to check is the blow by, take off the oil filler cap when the truck is running at operating temp, and check for excessive blow by. Blow by can be due to a ineffective CDR, or possible wear(piston rings), its a good way to see the engine condition. It isn't a duramax, but it is a good reliable engine, easy to work on, without the steep price tag.  

Pict. of PMD? Thanks for the replies. The faq was apparently where I needed to be. Does anyone have a picture of the remote mounted PMD in their garage? Thanks again, Tim  

tccak71 said: Thanks for the replies. The faq was apparently where I needed to be. Does anyone have a picture of the remote mounted PMD in their garage? Thanks again, Tim Click to expand...

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=983417&highlight=pmd#post983417  

I'm shocked nobody has mentioned the propensity for the 6.5 to crack blocks and heads. ...not to mention break crankshafts. Keep them at or near factory power settings, don't overheat them, and they'll last a good long time. Parts are cheap compared to Duramax too. As for busted cranks, make sure the harmonic balancer doesn't have worn out rubber, and your crank will be happy. "Hee hee. He said 'worn out rubber' and 'crank' in the same sentence." Once it blows up, slap in a Peninsular 18:1 and beef it up to run with a stock Duramax for 1/2 the money. I like mine just fine. It's stock.  

Mine has been great since I bought it... mind you this is all after I have put a lift pump in it (solved some of the problem) then I was another to find "snot in my sock" that made a world of difference after fixed (no more stumble) but wow, then I discovered I had a dead vacuum pump, fixed that and now have a truck with no stumbles, and it makes boost. I am happy with it! I paid sweet F all for my truck and now I love it, guess there were too many things wrong with it all at the same time and the guy just gave up! His loss my gain!  

Love mine! Affordable/efficient diesel great for camper/ towing/ and plowing! Electrical gremlins would be my only comment.... But the fact that you HAD a Duramax first , could be setting you up for disappointment no matter what gets said here. Good Luck! Let us know.  

The lift pump gets the fuel from the tank to the injection pump. It is on the drivers side frame rail underneath the cab. It looks a little like an inline fuel filter with wires going to it.  

B.E. yours is exception to rule on PMD fails, doesn't happen on all of em, but often enough that GM had to issue a special policy to cover the issue, so GM/Stanadyne believed the issue to be real enough to have to come up with a plan for it. Multiple members different sites have gone through it and had to deal with it. 3x myself before I went the Heath route, PMD fails aren't a myth.  

I bought my 00 6.5 TD 2500hd in 03 with 97 thousand miles on it. It now has 242K miles. One alternator, one set of batteries, a powersteering pump replaced under GM recall, and yes, one injection pump/PMD replacement not under warrenty- 2800 dollar bill by a diesel shop. For the money, the tranny and motor are excellent with proper care and maintenance. I've been hauling snowmobiles back and forth across the country (Colorado to Maine). Even pulling a two place sled trailer I got 16-17 consistently. 64mph is where I get my best fuel mileage. Go easy on the accelrator, you can get 20-21 easily.  

tccak71 said: Is Heath a member? Provide a service? I understand "Heath" is/or sells the kit to move the PMD, is that correct? Any links to it/him? Click to expand...

Whole lot of info to get you up speed quickly is in FAQ, follow links in my signature (blue hyperlinks) for more stuff you need to know about the site  

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Home › Reviews › Safari › Trek › 28RB2

Safari Trek 28RB2 2006

Published: September 16, 2011

You'll certainly get more with this American motorcaravan – read the Practical Motorhome Safari Trek 28RB2 review

Worth considering if you’re in the market for the most expensive mainstream luxury European motorhomes. It’s big, but not too brash and amazingly well specified.

Imperious driving position Domestic-quality fixtures and fittings Specification

Running costs

Big is beautiful in the States, but in the case of the Safari Trek, ‘big’ is a relative term. This US motorhome offers the luxury of a huge living space and an upmarket finish normally found only on vehicles twice the price and 10ft longer.

The secret is hidden inside the roof, above the lounge, from which the Electro-Majic bed lowers at the flick of a switch to provide a full-sized double, with plenty of headroom. This innovation has allowed Safari to ‘lose’ the rear bedroom that is standard on nearly all US motorhomes of this class without compromising on a sofa, large kitchen or a dining table.

Although this motorhome’s dimensions are larger than those of most European A-class vehicles, the lack of a slide-out section means that it can be accommodated by many campsites.

As far as driving the Trek is concerned, fuel consumption is not as high as you may have thought (around 12-14mpg) but every comfort is provided. As long as you can get your head around the vehicle’s size, it will be a pleasure to drive from the vantage point of the armchair-like cab seats. In addition to the reversing camera, there are cameras on each wing which automatically activate when you indicate, so you can see cyclists, motorcyclists and other hazards.

Specification lists on RVs can be so long as to be confusing, but a quick glance inside this coach shows what you get for your money. Everything is of domestic quality, from high quality fabrics and floor tiles to a Corian kitchen worksurface. The styling is typical of Safari’s parent company, Monaco, which builds ‘vans which retail in the region of £300,000. Despite all this, the Trek can be plated below HGV weight (7.5 tonnes) and still have around a tonne payload.

Although the lack of a slide-out is evident in the lounge width (2.4m), it’s nevertheless ample for a couple, and the Trek lacks none of the kit that makes RVs so popular in the racing paddocks.

An hydraulic levelling system automatically sets things to rights on-site, while a generator provides power. Even if you are hooked up, the inverter controls the draw from components, so if you’re in danger of exceeding the maximum amperage of the mains supply, the generator and twin batteries will kick in.

The washroom has a proper porcelain toilet, a big shower (about 88cm x 1.14m) and a big wardrobe with a linen cupboard next door. The toilet tank is the same size as the waste water tank. The kitchen is domestic in size and quality. There’s a convection microwave oven, and the fridge is huge, even by domestic standards.

Though it’s huge and highly priced in comparison with an average coachbuilt, the Safari is not much more expensive than a specced-up Hymer S-Class, yet it offers a degree of independence that wipes the floor with most Europeans.

Technical Specifications

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Northwest Trek Fun Club

The Club for Safari Trek Motorhome Owners

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• Trek Brochures
• ABOUT THE TREK
• All Things Trek

First built for the 1991 model year in Harrisburg, Oregon, with the last coming off Monaco’s Coburg, Oregon line in 2008, the Trek never really strayed from its roots. Its unique features never really changed. The chassis etc., came and went, but its coach part remained much the same since its inception. It was a large luxury coach in a small package.

Below you will find brochures from each year of production. In some years, multiple brochures were made.

Did you know that when Monaco took over building the Trek they came out with the Holiday Rambler Traveler model which is very similar to the Trek and which also used a Magic Bed?  You will find a 2003 brochure and video and a 2004 brochure for the Holiday Rambler Traveler model.

1991 Trek Brochure

  1992 trek.

1997 Trek Brochure

  1998 trek.

1998 Trek Brochure

1999 Trek Brochure

2000 trek.

2000 Trek Brochure

2001 trek.

2001 Trek Brochure

  2002 trek.

  2002 Trek Brochure

2002 trek sport brochure, 2002 trek sport specs, 2003 trek.

2003 Trek Brochure

2003 hr traveler brochure, 2003 hr traveler video,   2004 trek.

2004 Trek Brochure

2004 hr traveler brochure,   2005 trek.

2005 Trek Brochure

  2006 trek.

2006 Trek Brochure 1

2006 trek brochure 2, 2006 trek brochure 3, price sheet for 2006 28rb2 on 2005 chassis,   2007 trek.

2007 Trek Brochure

  2008 trek.

2008 Trek Brochure

  2016 trek.

2016 Trek Brochure

6 Most Common Problems with Safari Trek RV

The Safari Motorcoach Corporation introduced the Trek RVs in the 1980s. Since then, these RVs have been a popular choice among all travelers around the world.

But in the over 40-year-old run, the Safari Trek has faced many issues. Among these, there are some common problems that you also might have suffered from.

Broken pushrod, excessive fuel demand, leaking rooftop, parking brake failure, refrigerator not cold enough, and slide getting stuck are some of the common issues that you should know about. 

Let’s take a look at these problems along with some solutions.

Problems and Solutions at a Glance

Table of Contents

Common Safari Trek RV Problems and the Solutions:

Here are some problems that most of the customers face with their Safari Trek RVs:

1. Broken Pushrod:

This is a major problem that might arise with your Safari Trek RV. This might happen after the RV has traveled 50,000 miles. You will become stranded permanently if the engine pushrod breaks during your journey.

If the distance between the hydraulic lifter and the rod grows too wide, this problem might arise. Also, if the rocker’s arm is heavily worn, it will collapse to the side.

A bent pushrod will result as a result of this. It might snap at any time if you drive like this.

A bent pushrod is mostly repairable. If you can disconnect it, it’s a simple task. Place it on a firm, level surface and hammer it until it is perfectly flat. However, this is only a short-term remedy.

A damaged or significantly bent pushrod can also be replaced. It will cost around $500 to replace it. It’s also a time-consuming procedure.

So, if the engine pushrod on your Safari Trek breaks down in the middle of the journey, you’ll have to wait nearly 6 hours to get it serviced. This is only true if you can locate a nearby vehicle repair shop.

2. Excessive Fuel Demand:

Excessive fuel demand and low mileage are interconnected with each other. If the RV requires additional fuel, the mileage per liter will be reduced. For earlier Safari Trek vehicles, this is a typical occurrence.

This problem might suggest that your RV has a significant problem. High fuel consumption is sometimes caused by a faulty engine thermostat or engine misfiring.

Your RV will also demand extra fuel if the converter becomes blocked or the transmission slides.

If you discover that your Safari Trek is losing a lot of mileage, take it to the local auto shop as soon as possible. You may also go to Safari for better service if you have a warranty.

If the engine misfires, you should do a fast engine inspection. If necessary, adjust the thermostat.

Regularly inspecting the converter and gearbox is also recommended. To save energy, try to use the air conditioner as little as possible. Also, pay attention to the maximum speed limit.

3. Leaking Roof:

Water leak in the Safari Treks has given horrible experiences to some users. After driving for a couple of years, your RV will be prone to a leaking roof.

The roofing material deteriorates as you use it more often. High temperatures and excessive cold weather can cause the roof the crack. Also, the sealants become harder with time.

As a result, the interior gets drenched with an unwanted water supply. The metal parts might get rusted and you can also face dangerous electrical problems if water gets too close to the electronics.

If you wish to prevent this problem, park the RV below a shed. The sun will severely damage the roof if you park in an open place.

You may also get a protection cover from Amazon to safeguard your device from water and sunlight. The UV-resistant and waterproof coverings can help the roof and sides last longer.

You can also acquire better and higher-quality roof sealants. Renewing the hardened sealant is one of the greatest ways to keep your Safari Trek RV’s roof from leaking in the future.

4. Parking Brake Failure:

The Safari Trek RV’s parking brake fails for a variety of reasons. Corrosion of the braking system’s internal components is a possibility. As a result, the lever will be unable to freely move.

It’s also possible that the parking brake cable will break. As a consequence, there will be no signal passing through the wire.

The parking brake sensor might fail at any time. Even after releasing the brakes, the LED may illuminate. The brakes will also be hindered if you use harsh brakes while traveling at a fast speed.

If any of the internal parts get rusted, you should replace them right away. If the cable wears out or breaks, you should replace it with fresh wires.

If the sensor is malfunctioning, it may need to be replaced. It has to be changed right away if it isn’t lighting up or is constantly lighted.

When traveling at faster speeds on highways, be cautious. You should not slam on the brakes at once. Not only does it cause brake components to fail, but it is also extremely hazardous.

5. Refrigerator Not Cold Enough:

You could discover that the foods and items in your Safari Trek’s refrigerator aren’t as cold as they should be. This might happen even if you refrigerated the products overnight.

This issue might be the result of poor insulation. The vacuum rubber on the refrigerator door may be damaged. As a result, cold air seeps through the openings inside the refrigerator.

If this occurs, you should examine the insulating pads on the refrigerator doors. Inspect the refrigerator doors for any chilly air coming out. If you notice a cool breeze, the issue is with the vacuum rubbers.

This problem should come as no surprise if you’ve been using the RV for a long time. Buy the insulation pad for your RV refrigeratyor model. Then replace them by removing the old one. Seek professional assistance if necessary.

6. Slide Getting Stuck:

The Safari Trek Slide may become stuck. This generally happens when you wish to retract the slide. This is a major issue because you can’t drive the RV with the slide extending.

The most common reason for the Safari Trek’s slide to quit operating is the rubber seals drying up.

If this happens, you should lubricate the seals. Apply a seal conditioner product to the exterior seal.

You should first apply the product on a piece of clothing. Then, using the garment, apply the spray to the seals on the inside of the RV. Take care not to get the product on any other portions of the interior.

What Majority of the Users Feel About Safari Trek RV?

The recreational vehicles from the Safari Trek are still available in the market. Most of the reviews on the forums indicate that the users are very happy with the product.

But still, some users have talked about their dissatisfaction. A user from the I RV 2 forum has stated that the steering on his Safari Trek 2430 has decayed. Although he had to replace the tires and shocks, the drifting still haunted him.

Another user from the RV.net forum has stated that a Safari Trek owner was facing handling problems. The short wheelbase of the RV was the main reason.

You can see various problems with this company’s RV in forums. But most importantly, these are outnumbered by hundreds of praises about their loved Safari Treks.

Final Thoughts

Maintenance is the main thing that will keep your RV out of problems. If you can take care of your Safari Trek, you can double the lifetime of your RV.

This guide has been made for you if you are planning to buy a Safari Trek, or if you already own one. Nevertheless, you should follow the solutions I have provided if you face any of the mentioned issues.

Hopefully, this article will help you with your journey. Comment below if you have something in your mind.

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