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Few travellers make it to this icy continent, but the lucky ones who do get to explore a frozen Eden ruled by the elements and teeming with wildlife.

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G adventures sailing & cruises, g adventures private travel.

Whether it’s a family retreat or a girls trip, you can surround yourself with a hand-picked crew and customize a tour that fits you all perfectly.

The Geluxe Collection

Our new line of premium active adventures is officially here. With perfectly paced itineraries, one-of-a-kind accommodations and elevated dining, this is adventure at its finest.

National Geographic Journeys

Go deeper into the cultures and habitats of the places we explore. More is included and you’ll enjoy greater hands-on exploration, interactions with local experts, and freedom to roam.

National Geographic Family Journeys

Are you an adventure-loving family in search of meaningful ways to discover the world together? These tours are specially designed for travellers seven and up and their inquisitive families.

Jane Goodall Collection

Step deeper into the animal kingdom while respecting all of its inhabitants. Our incredible collection of wildlife-focused tours is endorsed by the world-renowned ethologist.

Roamies by Hostelworld

The thrill of adventure. The awesomeness of hostels. Get ‘em both on these immersive small group trips for 18 to 35-year-old travellers.

Why choose us

As the leader in small group travel for 30 years, we know how to do it right: flexible itineraries, freedom to roam, safety, peace of mind, and locally based guides.

Change the world just by having the time of your life. When you travel with us, you become a force for good by acting responsibly and creating positive impact.

Together with our non-profit partner, Planeterra, we ensure local communities touched by our tours benefit from our visits in as many ways possible.

Trees for Days

Leave your destination even greener than you found it! For every day on tour, we’ll plant a tree in your honour and ensure that our forests get to live their best lives.

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Last minute deals.

Looking to have the time of your life in the next 90 days or so? You can save big if you’re ready to book now.

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Got the urge to get away? We’ve got you covered. Check out the tours below, then get booking today!

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Introducing The Geluxe Collection

Icy hot deals on select expedition departures.

Depending on your travel date, you can snap up iceberg-sized savings on our Antarctica Expedition cruises to Earth’s frozen frontier.

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Why travel with G Adventures?

We’re the leader in small group adventure travel for more than 30 years. How’d we get here? By redefining the way travellers see the world. Check out how we’re creating the future of travel.

Small groups

Small groups

Join a small group of like-minded travellers that, like you, are eager to safely and confidently experience all the things that make our world worth exploring.

Guaranteed departures

100% guaranteed departures

Pack those bags and don't break a sweat because we guarantee every single one of our departures. As long as it's safe, you're going!

Locally based guides

Locally based guides

At G Adventures, we don’t have tour guides — we have Chief Experience Officers. And they are all locally based, meaning they know the area you’re exploring like the back of their well-travelled hand.

Built to support local communities

Built to support local communities

We have always created our tours by building meaningful relationships with local communities, directly benefiting the people and places we visit.

Flexibility, freedom, fun

Flexibility, freedom, fun

No matter the Travel Style, our tours balance well-planned itineraries with the flexibility to do your own thing and make the experience your own.

G for Good

When you travel with us, you experience first-hand our commitment to making travel a force for good is in everything we do.

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Our mission is simple – to help you enjoy all the fun of exploring our fascinating world. For more than 40 years, we’ve been providing a wonderfully simple, and genuinely personal, way to enjoy the vacation of your dreams.

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See Mount Etna from The Greek Theatre of Taormina in Sicily on a tour of Italy

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Why Grand European Travel?

Find your perfect trip in our collection of over 300 guided vacations and river cruises

We work tirelessly to deliver a seamless travel experience for you

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Our mission is simple - to help you enjoy all the fun of exploring our fascinating world... For more than 40 years, Grand European Travel has provided a wonderfully simple, and genuinely personal, way to plan, experience, and enjoy the vacation of your dreams. As a trusted travel partner, we offer a one-stop shop experience to help you quickly find, easily plan, and totally enjoy enriching travel experiences.

Find your ideal travel style and vacation destination in our collection of over 300 guided tours and river cruises to Europe and beyond. From great value guided tours to once-in-a-lifetime experiences, every vacation delivers exceptional value, with everything arranged for you, not by you, including trusted hotels, must-see sights and comfortable transportation. When you book with Grand European Travel, you'll always receive unparalleled customer service from our team of travel experts based in the USA, who will work with you to find perfect trip that fits your travel preferences, securing you the best pricing and available airfare from your chosen departure city.

Only Grand European Travel gives you insider access to our internationally renowned family of award-winning travel brands.   Trafalgar tours offer the best best value for your vacation dollar with fully loaded itineraries that are perfectly balanced including sightseeing, visits to major sites and attractions, locally hosted dining experiences and free time. Insight Vacations offer a Business Class experience on Premium guided tours that offer more inclusions, hands-on experiences, regional dining and business class extended leg-room on all motorcoaches.  For a more luxurious experience consider a Luxury Gold  guided journey or an all-inclusive  Uniworld Boutique River Cruise with luxury accommodations, a choice of included experiences and world-class gourmet cuisine. If you are looking for semi-independent, budget tour,  Costsaver trips are perfect for travelers opting for less inclusions, 3-star accommodation and more free time to explore each destination.

Together, we work passionately to manage all the details to make your vacation perfect.  When you book with us and travel with one of our sister brands, you'll enjoy the great value, exceptional service and fabulous experiences that only we can provide.

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Email Sign-up Travel Credit: Receive a $150 per person ($300 per couple) discount toward your first tour (operated by Trafalgar or Insight Vacations) when you sign up for GET emails; valid for each full-paying adult who signs up with a unique email address. Valid for new bookings only made from 01 January to December 31 2024 for travel from 01 January 2024 to 31 December 2025. Discount is not combinable with any other discount or offer, including GETAWAY Deals, Limited Time Offers, AARP member discount, Past Traveler Global Tour Rewards discount, Groups or Multiple Trip discounts. Offer cannot be booked online. GET reserves the right to validate bookings and will remove any additional offers added online that are not combinable. Other conditions may apply.

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Great Adventure Tours: Group Tours and Travel

Are you planning a group tour on a budget? Don’t know where to start?

Great Adventure Tours has you covered.

Great Adventure Tours is here to help you plan and manage your next trip. We remove the hassle of organizing your trip so that you can focus on enjoying your travel experience. We specialize in offering educational tour packages and many more.

Great Adventure Tours offers an incredible range of group tours and travel packages. We organize day trips, wedding travel options, student group tours, small group tours and corporate tours regardless of your group size, budget or travel style.

Great Adventure Tours provides group travel options from plenty of destinations in North America. Some of our popular destinations are Mackinac Island, New York City, Chicago, Boston, Washington DC, Orlando, Montreal, Quebec City, Orlando, Quebec, and Toronto.

Contact us today to receive a quote! We will save you time and money!

WHY BOOK WITH Great Adventure Tours

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Great Adventure Tours specializes in planning, organizing and managing handcrafted group tours and travel to meet the needs of tour operators, church groups, family reunion groups, alumni associations, bank clubs, etc. We create group travel itineraries for any destination for special interest groups of all types and sizes. This includes categories such as music and arts, historical tours, behind-the-scenes sports experiences, food and wine, wellness, etc. We design your group tour, your way!

We have a team of experienced professionals who offer you holistic services from complete itinerary planning (transport, hotels, attractions, restaurants) to arranging local tour escorts who represent your company.

We are dedicated to providing your group with outstanding services, extraordinary tour guides, unique hotels, attractions and restaurants. All our local tour managers/step-on guides are very professional, knowledgeable and friendly.

We are reputed as one of the premier receptive wholesale operators based on consistently delivering outstanding service at competitive rates.

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Great Tours of Italy | Small Group Tours. Discover Italy with our exclusive team. Uncover hidden treasures, savor authentic cuisine, and create unforgettable memories with our impeccable tours.  Beauty awaits you, let yourself be guided by the passion and expertise of our agency!

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WELCOME to our premier travel agency, your gateway to the enchanting world of Italian adventures ! Immerse yourself in the timeless beauty and captivating culture of Italy with our expertly crafted tours. From the romantic canals of Venice passing the sun-kissed  Amalfi Coast and extending to the edges of Italy and out to the islands of Sardinia and Sicily , we curate experiences that weave history, art, and gastronomy into unforgettable journeys . Let us be your companions as you uncover the hidden gems and iconic landmarks that make Italy a traveler’s dream . Embark on a voyage that will leave you spellbound and longing for more, as we unveil the heart and soul of Italy, one extraordinary tour at a time. Your Italian adventure starts here!

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Great-Explorations.com

35+ years creating and guiding trips throughout the world. Truth be told, founder Robbin McKinney has guided more trips, in more places, for longer, than anyone in the active travel world.

Genuine Local Guides

Our guests tell us time and time again that our guides are what sets us apart from other companies. Caring, knowledgeable, athletic, articulate and fun-loving, each is a natural leader.

Never Sub-contracted

We operate all of our own trips. We design our routes, own our bikes, have our own guides. You’ll never deal with the ‘ middle man ’ at Great Explorations which means everything will be as it appears.

Thoughtful Trip Design

We spend a great deal of time creating and updating our routes to ensure you are on the quietest, most scenic roads and trails that exist. Each of our trips is thoroughly researched, planned and tested.

Distinctive Hotels

As with everything else on our tours, you can trust all our accommodation choices to provide you with the perfect compliment to your trip. From charming inns to luxury chateaux and unique hotels.

Finally (and possibly the reason for our remarkable growth over the years), we encourage you to compare our trip prices, hotels and what is included and you will see we offer unsurpassed value.

Bicycles & Equipment

We have invested a significant amount of time and money to ensure you have the best bicycle for your trip. Our relationship with Cannondale has allowed us to offer top-of-the-line bikes.

Accurate information

At Great Explorations, each trip is thoroughly researched. We don’t simply ‘ link hotels ’ and we don’t depend on outdated guide books and second-hand information or review sites.

Cooking course, local guided walking tours, wine tasting with a sommelier, dining experiences that are memorable, musical performances... On our trips, all of the surprises are good ones!

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9 Great Chicago Architecture Tours

I f you're looking for the best Chicago architecture tours, you've found them here! As a local who has explored these tours on weekends, during staycations, or while showing visiting friends around Chicago, I can honestly say that this list shares the most unique and fun experiences.

The city has great options including the best architectural boat tours, helicopter tours, walking tours, and more.

If you have limited hours, take the Hop On/Hop Off bus tour in Chicago or visit the top Chicago attractions to get the most out of a short amount of time.

Architecture Tours You Should Try in Chicago

Chicago architecture cruise.

Check rates for Chicago Architecture Cruise

If you love touring on water, then this cruise is for you. I've taken this cruise several times while showing friends the city and they loved it too.

On this cruise, you will ride the Chicago River and see the city's famous architecture. You'll see the impressive flat skyline including over 40 famous buildings such as Navy Pier, the Wrigley Building, and the John Hancock Building with audio narratives. The tour covers all three branches of the Chicago River.

Navy Pier Centennial Wheel Regular & Express

Check rates at Navy Pier Centennial Wheel

This is one of my favorite ways to see the city and the Chicago skyline. You circle only once, but the ride is super slow, and you'll have some great photo ops when you get to the top.

Navy Pier is among the most visited destinations in the world. It offers beautiful views from the wheel, and it's a must-do when in the area! Located right on the pier, you have spectacular views of the city's skyline, architecture, and waterfront.

45-Minute Private Helicopter Flight

Check rates at 45-Minute Private Helicopter Flight

I was scheduled to go on this flight but it was canceled due to bad weather. At least they are good at following safety protocol. Too bad that I missed this amazing experience by helicopter. From what I hear, you will get the best views of touring Chicago architecture, and the experience of flying amongst the clouds. 

Willis Tower Skydeck and The Ledge

Check rates for Willis Tower Skydeck and The Ledge

Having been on the Skydeck a couple of times, it never disappoints. What I didn't like much was that there is a limited time that you have to stand in the box. But if there were no supervision, the line would be from the street.

But here, you will have some of the most breathtaking views of Lake Michigan. You'll also see why home is to beautiful parks and cultural attractions such as the Adler Planetarium in Millennium and the Shedd Aquarium in Grant Park.

Look north to see Chicago's iconic skyscrapers and landmarks from Lincoln Park to the world-famous Wrigley Field.

Night Tour with Willis Tower Entry & Skyline Cruise

Check rates at Night Tour with Willis Tower Entry & Skyline Cruise

This tour is a wonderful way to spend the evening while touring in Chicago. You'll immerse yourself in one of the tallest architectural buildings in Chicago along with a Chicago boat tour. 

Experience the Windy City’s most popular attractions on this overnight tour. Watch the night light show of Buckingham Fountain. Cruise along the Chicago skyline and climb to the top of the iconic Willis Tower.

Big Bus Panoramic Sunset Tour with Live Guide

Check rates at Big Bus Open-Top Panoramic Night Tour

If this is your first visit to this city, this is a great way to tour Chicago , Illinois and how it shines at night. There is so much to see on both sides of the bus since the architecture of Chicago is interesting

Experience the stunning skyscrapers of Windy City that light up at night. Take a panoramic nighttime tour from the Magnificent Mile to Michigan Avenue past the Chicago Theater and Buckingham Fountain.

Chicago History, Culture, and Architecture Walking Tour

Check rates at Chicago History, Culture, and Architecture Walking Tour

This is a great way to hear about Chicago's history and architecture. Take a private stroll or share walks with family or friends for this architecture tour. You can see old and new architecture, try delicious local treats, see beautiful boats tour the river. 

Chicago Architecture Center Exhibit Admission

Check rates at Chicago Architecture Center Exhibit

The Chicago Architecture Center or CAC is located at the south end of Magnificent Rock near Michigan Walker Intersection. You'll discover super-sized models of architecture from around the world.

The vouchers give you access to two floors of imaginative exhibitions at the city's newest cultural venue.

Chicago Art Deco Skyscrapers Walking Tour

Check rates at Chicago Art Deco Skyscrapers Walking

The luxurious materials and geometric decorations of Art Deco represent the opulence and optimism of the decadent 20s. Visit some of the city's most beautiful architecture and learn about the history and characteristics of this modern decorative style.

Final Thoughts on the Best Chicago Architecture Tours

These are the best ways to tour Chicago architecture and see all the unmissable attractions. I've taken every single one of these tours, including ones not mentioned and found them worth the money.

I enjoyed seeing the towering skyscrapers and iconic landmarks. The tours offer a fascinating glimpse into the architectural history of the Chicago. Not to mention, it's nice to play tourist in my own back yard.

As a visitor, be sure to plan your tour in advance and consider factors such as weather and time of day to make the most of your experience. Don't forget your camera to capture the stunning views along the way.

Whether you're an architecture enthusiast or simply looking to appreciate the city's remarkable skyline, a Chicago architecture tour is a must-do activity. The buildings are inspiring structures and some are a marvel of innovative designs that have shaped this iconic city.

Whether you go on water, in the air, or on foot , book your tour today and embark on a journey through Chicago's architectural wonders.

9 Great Chicago Architecture Tours

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Great experience!! - Over The Falls Tours

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Great experience!!

I took my grand-daughter to Niagara Falls NY for a surprise 13th birthday get-away. We only had a day and a half to see all the key sites on the American side. I selected this tour and we were picked up at our hotel at 1 pm which was super convenient! Serena, our guide was really nice and did a great job getting us to all the sites and ensuring everyone was looked after. The Maid of the Mist boat ride was truly awesome and we were both amazed! The other vantage points were definitely worth seeing but seem a little lackluster after seeing the Falls from the water. All in all a great and super convenient way to see pretty much all you need to see in about 4 1/2 hours. Would definitely recommend!

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KOOL KATS is amazing!!! Dale is awesome and his information and stories are top notch!!! Dale really took time to get to know us and he is extremely professional yet so funny! The group is small so you feel like being taken care off properly. I definitely recommend Dale's Kool Kats!

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Everything was amazing. We really enjoy our trip with Dale. I loved the pizza at the bakery where we stop. I got to much pictures and videos for my instagram.

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Dana communicated clearly from the morning of the tour onward. I felt very comfortable and relaxed because I knew exactly what to expect. She shared many interesting pieces of information along the way and was friendly and welcoming. I couldn’t have asked for a better guide!

Paul was a fantastic tour guide, very knowledgeable and great personality. Made sure we were having fun. We absolutely loved the entire experience from start to finish!!

Our tour was the best experience. Our tour guide, Eduardo, was on time, informational, and entertaining. Several sites in the tour were ones I would not have known about if they had not been included in the tour.

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Catbacker 2024

Catbacker Tour Set for Next Month

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UK and Great Britain Tours & Trips

Our 974 Great Britain and UK tours will take you to amazing places with unforgettable views, remarkable history, and unique experiences. Travel along the astounding coast of Cornwall or see for yourself what makes the Edinburgh Castle and the Scottish Highlands so special.

250+ UK and Great Britain tour packages with 23,581 reviews

Essential Britain & Ireland Tour

  • In-depth Cultural
  • Coach / Bus

Essential Britain & Ireland

Very nice itinerary ... jam packed days and evenings. I chose not to do any of the extra evening excursions that were offered so I was able to use the time to explore every overnight stop on my own. The tour guide was amazing... so full of knowledge about all the countries/areas we visited.

England, Scotland and Ireland end Dublin Tour

England, Scotland and Ireland end Dublin

pretty good considering all

Britain and Ireland Experience (12 Days) Tour

Britain and Ireland Experience (12 Days)

Fast paced tour, covered a lot. Stuart was an excellent driver and Hamish a very knowledgeable guide, both got us from A-B safely & on time. Breakfast were all good, three set dinners okay. Hotels clean, comfortable but locations mostly remote.

Britain and Ireland Delight (Summer, 8 Days) Tour

Britain and Ireland Delight (Summer, 8 Days)

The hotels are good and Mat is funny and knowledgably. The whole travel is well organized and interested.

Wonders of Britain and Ireland (12 Days) Tour

Wonders of Britain and Ireland (12 Days)

Really enjoyed having Greg for our Tour Director, he was so organized and efficient. Empathetic to people's needs. He is very knowledgeable and made the tour a lot of fun.
  • €100 deposit on some dates Some departure dates offer you the chance to book this tour with a lower deposit.

Best of UK & Ireland Tour

Best of UK & Ireland

Our tour leader Peter was amazing! He took such good care of us, entertained us with stories, folklore and history everywhere we went. Lee was shadowing and proved to be an amazing guide as well! His stories and history were such a gift! Lee...you're welcome! Paul has got to be the BEST driver in the UK! It was incredible the way he navigated the narrow roads, bridges and entrances without a scratch to the bus! His humour and general good nature made the bus trip a truly memorable vacation! Expat is exceptional! Thank you for the memories and new friends!
  • 10% deposit on some dates Some departure dates offer you the chance to book this tour with a lower deposit.

Britain & Ireland Explorer (Classic, 13 Days) Tour

Britain & Ireland Explorer (Classic, 13 Days)

We had a great holiday and highly recommend insight tours . We had lovely hotels and a fantastic tour guide who was very knowledgeable with places and the history.

United Kingdom and Ireland ( 10 days ) Tour

  • Sightseeing
  • Christmas & New Year

United Kingdom and Ireland ( 10 days )

Britain and Ireland Panorama (16 Days) Tour

Britain and Ireland Panorama (16 Days)

Everything about the trip was good, including the weather, and Greg even influenced that, playing the Beatles "Here comes the sun" to start every morning. Full breakfast was good fuel for the day. Greg was enthusiastic, knowledgable, amusing, and patient with tardy guests. The coach drivers (Liam and Tommy) were superb. The porterage was a very nice touch.

Grand Tour of Britain & Ireland Tour

Grand Tour of Britain & Ireland

We were impressed. Our guide (Kaeleigh) was extremely well informed and provided information and history. The whole process was well organised from booking until the last breakfast. We highly recommend.

The Best of Britain & Ireland Tour

The Best of Britain & Ireland

The tour was as advertised “a taste of the UK”,we saw some wonderful sites, beautiful towns/cities & magnificent people.Our tour guide (Peter) gave us interesting facts & antidotes for the places we went to.The accomodation was average but it did the job required (sadly none had separate laundry facilities to catch up with washing).Sometimes you felt rushed other times why are we here for 4 hours(to much shopping time).Overall we had a great time with our fellow passengers & Cosmos looked after us with respect & if given a chance to travel again by coach Cosmos tours will be on our check list. Regards Peter & Anne

5 Day Skye & Highland Fling Tour

5 Day Skye & Highland Fling

Best tour I have ever been on. I had an absolute blast with Neil. I highly recommend this tour as a first date with the Highlands and Isle of Skye.

Best of Ireland & Scotland (Classic, 14 Days) Tour

Best of Ireland & Scotland (Classic, 14 Days)

Greg and Arther did and excellent job above and beyond great knowledge of all the history and culture made everyone feel so welcome

Great Britain Tour

Great Britain

Our guide Peter W was wonderful and driver Minty exceptional. The sights were just what I was hoping for and the drives and optional trips very good.

10-Day Ultimate Ireland Small Group Tour Tour

10-Day Ultimate Ireland Small Group Tour

Finn, our driver and guide provided a wealth of information throughout the trip. Many of the sights and experiences exceeded my expectations.

What people love about UK And Great Britain Tours

Guides were great and the tour was an excellent way to see lots of places in a short amount of time
The driver, Billy, and tour director, Speedy, made the trip very interesting and informative. They were both very helpful. We were disappointed that some of the hotel didn’t really cater for the older tourist with rooms a fair distance from reception, climbing stairs and dragging our luggage.
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A snorkeller above bleached and dead staghorn coral off Heron Island

Great Barrier Reef’s worst bleaching leaves giant coral graveyard: ‘It looks as if it has been carpet bombed’

Scientists stunned by scale of destruction after summer of storm surges, cyclones and floods

Beneath the turquoise waters off Heron Island lies a huge, brain-shaped Porites coral that, in health, would be a rude shade of purplish-brown. Today that coral outcrop, or bommie, shines snow white.

Prof Terry Hughes, a coral bleaching expert at James Cook University, estimates this living boulder is at least 300 years old.

“If that thing had eyes it could have looked up and watched Captain Cook sail past,” he says, back on the pristine beach of this speck of an island 80km offshore at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef .

It is not just Heron’s grand old bommie that is freshly bleached. The surrounding tangle of staghorn corals, or Acropora , are splashed in swathes of white, or painted a dappled mosaic of greens and browns that betray the algae and seaweeds growing over the freshly killed coral. Hughes estimates 90% of those branching corals are dead or dying.

Terry Hughes inspects the coral around the Heron Island research station

Snorkelling above these blighted coral thickets evokes the imagery of forests annihilated by bushfires, or cities obliterated by missiles.

“It looks as if it has been carpet bombed,” says the Greens senator Peter Whish-Wilson, who has accompanied Hughes to Heron. “Like limbs strewn everywhere.”

Even Hughes, a man who has witnessed as much mass mortality of coral as any, looks shellshocked.

The Dublin-born, Townsville-based marine biologist already knew the coral ringing Heron had just experienced its worst recorded bleaching – and that this was no isolated event .

Last month the Australian Institute of Marine Science and the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority released a report warning that the reef was experiencing “the highest levels of thermal stress on record”. The authority’s chief scientist, Dr Roger Beeden, spoke of extensive and uniform bleaching across the southern reefs, which had dodged the worst of much of the previous four mass bleaching events to blight the Great Barrier Reef since 2016.

Hughes saw in the institute’s aerial surveys results the most “widespread event and severe” bleaching event to date, not just in the south, but across much of the entire system – which stretches 2,300km up the Queensland coast.

Aerial video shows mass coral bleaching on Great Barrier Reef amid global heat stress event – video

But none of these metrics, it seems, could truly prepare him for the act of bearing witness to the unfolding calamity he has dedicated his life to preventing.

“It’s fucking awful,” the softly spoken scientist says, emerging from the ocean. “They said the bleaching was extensive and uniform. They didn’t say it was extensive, uniform and fucking awful.

“It’s a graveyard out there.”

Hughes and Green senator Peter Whish-Wilson inspect the coral using a viewing tube

Lethal hot water

The academic director of the University of Queensland research station on Heron, Dr Selina Ward, doesn’t mince words either. She describes this as “the year from hell”.

Storm surges washed away some of her favourite stands of corals, there have been outbreaks of coral-eating crown-of-thorns starfish, cyclones and floods. But these “multiple assaults” pale compared with this most “horrendous bleaching”.

The bleaching peaked in February and March. At the end of March, Ward visited 16 sites around Heron and nearby reefs, including around One Tree Island – a scientific reserve with “the maximum level of protection you can get”.

“It was terrible, the worst bleaching event I’ve ever seen,” she says. “In those 16 sites, every single one was severely bleached – and some of the corals were starting to die already.”

Her big question, though, is what is happening under the water right now.

Corals bleach when sustained exposure to warmer than average water causes them to expel the photosynthetic algae that give them colour – and from which the corals polyps obtain much of their nutrients.

A coral can die or recover from bleaching. The weeks that follow a bleaching event are a brief window in which scientists like Ward and Hughes can assess how many corals have starved without their symbiotic algae. In a few months, those newly dead corals will be covered in weed and beginning to be broken down into barren rubble piles – the time and cause of their demise will become more and more obscured.

The reef is now in that window, Ward says, where scientists can get into the water and observe the amount of bleached corals that – though left more vulnerable to disease and less fertile – might just regain colour and pull through. As well as those that will not.

Great Barrier Reef suffering ‘most severe’ coral bleaching on record – video

But bleaching is only one coral reaction to what Hughes says is perhaps better described as a hot water event. Some corals will simply “cook”. Others turn a vivid blue or neon yellow – a garish shade our research vessel’s skipper says has been widespread on the corals around Heron.

These, though dazzling, are also disconcerting – this fluorescence is a protein corals produce as a kind of sunscreen. It is not a very effective defence though. According to Hughes, most of these neon corals won’t survive.

“The irony is that it looks beautiful in death,” Whish-Wilson says of a fluorescent coral while he and Hughes wade through knee-deep water as the tide recedes around Heron and coral tips emerge from the water like bones.

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Heron Island from the air

The unseen national emergency

After the summer of 2023-24, the Great Barrier Reef is awash in cruel irony and dissonance. The first strikes the traveller to Heron as its Islander catamaran departs its berth and rounds a canal into Gladstone’s harbour.

A hulking and rusty bow is slowly revealed as a bulk carrier connected, by crane-like loaders, to great mounds of crushed black earth. Behind it, another ship is being loaded with coal. And another behind that.

Then, as the catamaran rounds Curtis Island, it ducks and weaves its way through bulk carrier after bulk carrier, lurking outside the harbour like a school of sharks at the edge of a reef. On his phone’s shipping app, Hughes lists 43 of the steel leviathans.

Bulk carriers moored offshore

Whish-Wilson says the flotilla speaks to a government having “a bet each way”.

“But you can’t have a future for fossil fuels and a future for a healthy reef,” he says. “You just can’t.”

Later, reflecting on a trip he already feels will haunt the rest of his life, the Greens healthy oceans spokesperson says this devastating bleaching should trigger Unesco to declare the Great Barrier Reef’s world heritage values as “in danger” and demand a visit from the federal environment minister, as well as a declaration of national emergency.

If this were a bushfire raging across thousands of kilometres, he says, that declaration would already have been made.

“But because it is in the ocean, it is out of mind, out of sight.”

Slim hope of recovery

Another of Heron’s incongruities is that, even amid such underwater devastation, it still harbours breathtaking beauty. Green sea turtles cruise above stands of broken coral, giant coral trout open their mouths and gills for electric blue cleaner wrasse, manta rays glide gracefully through the shallows.

Hughes first came here as a postdoctoral researcher in 1985 and has often returned. Now, as he prepares to leave Heron once more, he ponders the future of a natural wonder of the world to which he has given so much of his life.

A turtle shelters among bleached and dead staghorn coral

The 67-year-old has seen the coral ecosystems of the Great Barrier Reef degrade and knows that they are on the inexorable path of further decline. Yet, if global heating can be limited to well below 2C on pre-industrial levels , Hughes still believes it is possible to stabilise sea temperatures and allow those corals that survive to mount a slow recovery.

It is not a question of hope or resignation, he says, but “immediate action”.

Unless fossil fuel emissions are cut “ASAP”, he says, the corals of the world’s reefs will be replaced by something else, perhaps seaweed or sponges.

“There would still be a tropical ecosystem here,” Hughes says with a sweep of his hand. “But at some point we would have to say it is no longer a coral reef. We’d have to call it something else.”

So when will Hughes return to Heron to see what, if anything, recovers? Will he check on that grand old bommie, now snow white?

“I’m not sure I will come back,” he says.

Hughes, left, onboard a research station inflatable

And why not? To this, a long pause, as Hughes looks away and out at the ocean, the only sound a choked sob and the haunting wail of the black noddies that brood and swarm on this troubled coral cay.

“’Cause it’s so upsetting,” he says, eventually.

Not that Hughes plans on staying silent.

“I think scientists like me need to be as vocal as possible,” he says. “To show people what’s happening.”

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Sonny Rollins' big-hearted music speaks for itself on newly reissued 'Freedom Weaver'

Kevin Whitehead - Square

Kevin Whitehead

In 1959, Rollins was a few years into one of the great hot streaks in jazz history when he took a three-week trip to Europe. Three hours from that tour are heard on a new Rollins-approved reissue.

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The black crowes impress as ‘happiness bastards’ tour rocks and rolls on.

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The Black Crowes perform on stage in support of their ninth studio album 'Happiness Bastards,' now ... [+] available via Silver Arrow Records. Friday, April 19, 2024 at Byline Bank Aragon Ballroom in Chicago, IL

“Alright!” shouted a clearly excited Chris Robinson last week as the Black Crowes performed on stage in Chicago. “Friday night at the rock and roll show!”

Following last month’s release of their latest studio album Happiness Bastards , their ninth, the Crowes performed Friday night in Chicago at Aragon Ballroom about halfway through the U.S. leg of their current tour, a lengthy jaunt set to take them abroad next month ahead of fall and winter dates in support of Aerosmith’s rescheduled “Peace Out” North American farewell tour.

“When we saw we were coming back to the Aragon, we were very excited,” said Robinson late, noting the group’s first performance in the picturesque room in almost 25 years. “And we’re very excited to have Glyders opening for us. They’re from this town, check them out,” he continued, lauding the work of the Chicago-based, psychedelic garage rock trio (as a cardboard cutout of Chuck Berry looked on from the venue’s balcony).

Glyders perform on stage as the opening act for The Black Crowes. Friday, April 19, 2024 at the ... [+] Aragon Ballroom in Chicago, IL

Over the course of 35 minutes, Glyders offered up a rewarding, lo-fi opening set.

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“Cheers, everyone!” said bassist Eliza Weber early. Singer/guitarist Joshua Condon and drummer Joe Seger would soon find a groove during standout tracks like “Geneva Strangemod” and “High Time,” both from their 2023 full-length debut Maria’s Hunt.

Since we were first introduced in 1990, the Crowes have tallied a pair of platinum albums and three gold records, with Happiness Bastards , the group’s first studio album of original material in nearly 15 years, a worthy addition to their unique brand of southern-fried rock and roll.

Chris Robinson (left), Rich Robinson (right) and Erik Deutsch (back) perform on stage with The Black ... [+] Crowes during their 'Happiness Bastards' tour. Friday, April 19, 2024 at Aragon Ballroom in Chicago, IL

“There’s a little town about 90 miles south of Atlanta called Macon, Georgia,” Robinson explained Friday night in Chicago, spotlighting the group’s roots. “Little Richard is from Macon. And the Allman Brothers Band,” he began, just one day removed from the death of co-founding Allman Brothers guitarist Dickey Betts. “But there’s another: the greatest soul singer of all time, Otis Redding,” he continued. “Well, we jumped on that song and it goes like this,” said Robinson, setting up a late take on one of the biggest Black Crowes hits in Redding’s “Hard to Handle.”

While recent tours celebrated their Shake Your Money Maker record, this one makes the case for the new project, with the Black Crowes performing six songs from it over the course of about 95 minutes on stage Friday in Chicago.

As they do on the album too, “Bedside Manners” and “Rats and Clowns,” two of Happiness Bastards ’ more rollicking moments, kicked things off Friday night.

Nico Bereciartua (Left) and Sven Pipien (right) perform on stage with The Black Crowes during the ... [+] 'Happiness Bastards' tour. Friday, April 19, 2024 at Aragon Ballroom in Chicago, IL

Performing as an 8 piece group, drummer Cully Symington and keyboard player Erik Deutsch were set beside backing vocalists Mackenzie Adams and Lesley Grant atop a unique two-tiered stage built to resemble stacks upon stacks of vintage amplifiers and audio equipment.

Frontman Chris Robinson, who performed in front of a large mirror, was joined on stage by guitarists Rich Robinson and Nico Bereciartua as well as longtime bassist Sven Pipien. Festive lighting strung over, along and behind the stage flanked the group who performed under a massive “Happiness Bastards” banner hanging from the lighting rig over the stage.

“Good to see you all. Welcome to the ‘Happiness Bastards!’” said Chris early in Friday’s set. “We’ve got some new songs and we got some old ones - like this!” he said, shuffling left before pointing right at Rich on the slide guitar, ultimately bunnyhopping in reverse back to center stage as “Twice As Hard” rang out early in Chicago.

Sven Pipien (Left) and Chris Robinson (right) perform on stage with The Black Crowes during their ... [+] 'Happiness Bastards' tour. Friday, April 19, 2024 at Aragon Ballroom in Chicago, IL

Robinson was in fine form Friday, a rejuvenated frontman shimmying about while delivering a still impressive lead vocal, with the new music cementing a once unthinkable rebirth for the Black Crowes, who’ve continually staked their claim as one of America’s best rock acts since reforming in 2019.

From 1996’s Three Snakes and One Charm , “Nebakanezer” was an early highlight in Chicago. The gnarly dual guitar riffwork of “Horsehead,” from 1999’s By Your Side followed, providing one of Friday’s more rewarding one-two punches.

Rich Robinson of The Black Crowes performs on stage during the 'Happiness Bastards' tour. Friday, ... [+] April 19, 2024 at Aragon Ballroom in Chicago, IL

While “Oh Josephine” slowed things down momentarily, “Thorn in my Pride” found the group beginning to roll, with Chris on harmonica as the Crowes delivered an all hands, Stones-like jam to close the cut.

“Everyone say hello to Rich Robinson,” said Chris, gesturing toward his younger brother. With a wave of his right hand, Rich greeted the rapturuous Chicago crowd, soon strumming in the familiar opening licks to “She talks to Angels” on acoustic guitar.

Chris Robinson (left) and Rich Robinson (right) of The Black Crowes perform on stage during the ... [+] 'Happiness Bastards' tour. Friday, April 19, 2024 at Aragon Ballroom in Chicago, IL

From the new record, “Flesh Wound” followed, quickly proving to be a late high spot. The saccharine-drenched affair was a blast in the live setting, conjuring up the power pop stylings of Cheap Trick as the Black Crowes soared forward in fun fashion.

The brothers Robinson leaned in close, singing into the same mic during “Jealous Again” before closing with “Remedy,” with Chris back on harp as the new “Kindred Friend” wrapped things up in the Windy City.

“What is a band, other than something you dream up?” asked Chris rhetorically on stage in Chicago. “This band started in our mom and dad’s house in the 80s,” he continued, noting the pair’s humble roots. “And that dream will continue on.”

Jim Ryan

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  6. 5 Best European Tours 2024 & 2025

    Europe Tours. Rick Steves tours provide the best value for your trip to Europe. Our stress-free European vacations package together small groups, great guides, central hotels, all sightseeing — and memories to last a lifetime. Browse Rick's best Europe tours and vacation packages: Best of Europe in 21 Days Tour. 2024

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    Moscow Free Tour: Great tour - See 3,629 traveler reviews, 845 candid photos, and great deals for Moscow, Russia, at Tripadvisor.

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  9. European Vacation Packages

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  11. The Great Tours: England, Scotland, and Wales

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  13. The 63 Most Anticipated Tours of 2024

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  14. Tour & Travel Agency in Moscow

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  17. 10 Best Greece Tours & Trips 2024/2025

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  20. Great Day! Tours and Charter Bus Service

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  22. Great experience!!

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  24. Catbacker Tour Set for Next Month

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  25. Great Wolf Lodge pushes opening date up ahead of Labor Day weekend

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  26. UK and Great Britain Tours & Trips

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    After the summer of 2023-24, the Great Barrier Reef is awash in cruel irony and dissonance. The first strikes the traveller to Heron as its Islander catamaran departs its berth and rounds a canal ...

  29. Sonny Rollins' big-hearted music speaks for itself on newly ...

    In 1959, Rollins was a few years into one of the great hot streaks in jazz history when he took a three-week trip to Europe. Three hours from that tour are heard on a new Rollins-approved reissue.

  30. The Black Crowes Impress As Happiness Bastards Tour Rocks And ...

    Nico Bereciartua (Left) and Sven Pipien (right) perform on stage with The Black Crowes during the ...[+] 'Happiness Bastards' tour. Friday, April 19, 2024 at Aragon Ballroom in Chicago, IL