ford cruise o matic fluid type

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C-4 Cruise o matic Fluid level

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I have a 66 with a 289 and a c4 cruise-o-matic, it has the 11 bolt pan not sure if that matters but autozone claimed I had the other c4 with the 13 bolt pan... My problem is that when I try to refill the trans after a trans pan gasket the stick doesn't read any fluid till it's hot there is only an add mark and a full.... so I drained 2 quarts out I put 1 1/2 in(waited for it to come to full operating temp) then started to add slowly(like a few ounces of fluid) checking it after a few mins an then it goes from add to Tons of bubbles and 4 inches over full from just a small amount of fluid... I've tried a few times now but I wonder is the stick the right one, is the tube wrong, am I just stupid and need mental help? judge.gif I know for sure when I drained it it was over full on the stick and I caught it in a drain pan and measured the amount it drained 2 full quarts I didn't replace the filter. And I have owned the car for the last 20 years... I had it rebuild 10 years ago and never changed the fluid myself I had the trans shop do it. az.gif  

One trick I used after filling fluid was to go through the gears with the vehicle running then recheck it. It will then show an accurate reading.  

This is going to sound silly but look a both sides of dip stick and use the lowest reading.The dip stick is touching the tube on the way in and getting fliud on it,also try letting it sit 10 to 15 minuntes before checking  

The car must be at operating temperature and have been driven so the trans is at normal temperature, then park it on the level, leave it running, open the hood, get back into the seat and shift it through each gear and wait for it to engage before going to the next, then do the same working your way back to park (this fills the servos), once in park, remove the dipstick and wipe it and reinsert it fully then remove it and look at the fluid level on both sides of the dipstick, the lowest one is the actual level and compare it to the markings for the level whether it is within normal or too low or too high. This it the proper procedure for checking the fluid level. Since you were filling the transmission, this many times adds air also, if the dipstick is at the add mark, that is one pint from the add to the full mark, if you add too much fluid you get the fluid too high in the transmission and the rotating assembly gets air wiped into it also. So the best thing to do if it has a lot of air in it, is to let it sit for either several hours or a day, then check you fluid cold, it should be low and may barely read on the dipstick, if it is near the add mark do not add any. Since the trans holds between 10 1/2 pints to 11 1/2 pints it expands a lot from cold to normal operating temperature almost a quart. Run it through the different ranges, PRNDLLDNRP, then recheck, if it doesn't read on the dipstick at all, add 1/2 PINT, and recheck, until it just reads on the dipstick, it will still probably low, but you have to get the transmission up to temperature. IF it feels like it goes into the gears okay, then take it for a short drive locally not on the freeway, then find a level spot and recheck your level. Good Luck.  

rex1965 said: ...Since the transmission holds between 10 1/2 pints to 11 1/2 pints... Click to expand...

I would agree with everything Rex mentioned. It needs to have enough fluid in it to be drivable before you can check the fluid level. Other years were different for but a '66 it should not hold any more than 9 quarts (8 qts, 27 oz per the shop manual). A complete refill on my '66, 289-C4 only takes about 8 quarts. After the first 4 quarts you have to start the engine for a few minutes between quarts or the ATF will run out of the vent pipe onto the floor. If its the one that came from the factory in '66 it will only have 11 bolts in the oil pan.  

Hey Ivy, I m taking MY 65 289 V8 WITH Cruise-O-Matic Trans. to the shop this coming Monday AM to have Fluid changed along with filters and the two seals(small one and the big one-one inner and small one outer) replaced at same time as it is leaking some now on the shifter rod shaft. Two problems they don't have Motorcraft type F ATF fluid. Said they would probably use mercon 5 in it. Is this a good idea. I know type F ATF is avaialbe from some places yet. They are dropping pan and changing fluid as the tranny pan is in need of a new gasket also. Yhey will adjust Bands at that time if needed they said. Now how many quarts will it take to refill it when they are done. I need an answer if possible asap as time is short as you can see. Please email me [email protected] with your answer and thoughts. Also when I take it out of park and put in reverse it has started to make a little noise as it starts to back up and it feels like you have the parking brake on and I have to work it from park to Low and back to reverse several time to get it to start to back up freely. There is no strain at shifter handle during this. Then it may go a day or two and be fine overtime. ??? Then here it comes again. I checked the shifter rod mechanism and it is not loose or slipped ??. Thanks Ivy66, Doug Styers  

It must have had air in the system. I drained some out for the second time and ran it through the gears checked the stick and drove it. Was low again so I topped it off and 200 miles later it's still ok.Thanks for the replies, I've finally got this project rolling again. mexican.gif  

Silverfox1932, you need to start a new thread for your problem, the other one is over 2 years old. And to answer your question, you must use ATF type F in your transmission, it is still available, and the torque convertor needs to be drained also, it has a drain plug accessible when the inspection cover is removed on the bellhousing, you may have to turn the engine over a little to see it. If you don't use ATF type F, you run the risk of damaging all the seals, the clutches, and bands, which in turn may cause more damage. My 2 cts. Good luck.  

If you are in the US Type F is available at any auto parts store.  

As I stated in the prior comment from 2 years ago, my stock '66 C4 only uses about 8 quarts to refill even when you drain the torque converter. Type F is available everywhere in the US, even at Walmart. If your shop can't find it you may need to find another shop that tries a little harder. A '66 has no real 'filter'. There is a wire mesh screen that keeps odd nuts and bolts from circulating but its a long way from what most would call a 'filter'. Idle speed is the thing that most affects how a C4 shifts into gear. If your idle is much above the factory spec of 500 RPM you won't have a very smooth engagement. At 500 RPM it will go into gear so smoothly and quietly that you won't even know that it happened.  

My Cruise-O holds 11 quarts. But it's for a bigger car. Cast iron case, longer clutch packs. Truly a masterpiece of engineering.  

Yes, how much oil was in a C4 depended greatly upon what car, engine and year. The 8 qts I mentioned is for a factory '66, 289 C4 similar to what the OP mentioned in 2014. For a 6-cyl car in '66 the shop manual says the oil capacity was another quart less than for the 289s. More HP through the C4 generates more heat and adding more oil is a cheap way to try and keep the C4 oil temperature down for the cars with more HP. To do that requires a different and larger oil pan so that the fluid level stays about the same.  

I'm guessing that the cases for the bigger cars and trucks are larger too. When I bought a rebuild kit it shorted me a couple of clutch disks, so my stacks are longer, which I assume would require a longer case. These older automatics have a vent/ overflow port on the top. To keep mine clean on the outside I've installed a rubber hose on that to carry excess fluid to the pavement. If I overfill the transmission even a little bit Type F runs right out of that hose. So Ford wants these things almost completely submerged in fluid.  

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Cruise-O-matic does it have filter or screen, how many quarts to fill?

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I need to change the tranny filter in my cruise-o-matic and need to know if it has a cleanable screen or filter? Also how much fluid does it take and what kind? Can you also drain the torque converter? Thanks, BobG  

Hello, I just changed the transmission fluid on mine. The filter is a metal screen. I suppose it could be cleaned, but I just replaced it. Its about $7 at Kragen. I also use Valvoline ATF Type FA. Mine took about 4 quarts, but you might want to look in the owners manual for factory recomendation for your car if you have it, or I'm sure someone on this board knows. I don't know if you can drain the torque converter, but I am interested to find out. I don't think you can, but I could be wrong. My buddy said it is a good idea to change the gear oil as well in the rear. I need to figure out how or maybe someone who has done it before could explain. Hope that helps.  

Every time I pulled my tranny and didn't really drain the torque converter it took me about 8 qts at least to fill it back up again. But then that was totally pulling the tranny and some came out of the torque converter. I think there were plugs in the side kinda of mine to drain it. I don't know if they are all the same or not though. The rear, you would have to siphon out or remove the axle and jack one side of the car way up so that it can drain out that way. Or at least that's the ways I know of. I think they sell a siphon type thing for that purpose. Deb <font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ShotRod64 on 8/31/04 7:08am ]</font>  

To drain the converter remove the bottom inspection cover on the bellhousing, there will be an access hole in the flexplate that will allow you to remove the drain plug on the front (engine side) of the converter. You will have to rotate the engine to get the drain plug at the BDC position. Remove the plug and drain away, to keep things from getting messy make a little chute out of cardboard to keep the fluid from collecting in the bellhousing. Make sure your drain pan has enough capacity, completley drained(pan and converter) should take 10-12 qts. to refill. While you're at it disconnect the transmission cooling lines and blow them out with air, this can get messy, no sense contaminating your fresh fluid with the old stuff in the cooler. When you refill it put in about 6 qts. start it up and run it thru the gears and add the rest untill full. Tony <font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: UTRY on 8/31/04 9:56am ]</font> <font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: UTRY on 9/1/04 4:23am ]</font>  

Sounds like I didn't drain mine all the way. Mine actually took about 6 quarts after counting how many quarts I have left. I just let everything drip from where the filter was and didn't pull the transmission or mess with anything else. I need to get my hands on a manual myself.  

I was told that the new Dexron 3 tranny fluid is a replacement for the old type F fluid. Have any of you tried this ?  

I'll use that dexron 3 in my power steering, but with the luck i have with trannies I never use anything but the type F in them. If the tranny has been rebuilt not that long ago with new seals etc it would probably be fine. I just wouldn't take the chance if it hasn't. Deb  

On 2004-08-31 03:31, norcal500 wrote: Sounds like I didn't drain mine all the way. Mine actually took about 6 quarts after counting how many quarts I have left. I just let everything drip from where the filter was and didn't pull the transmission or mess with anything else. I need to get my hands on a manual myself. Click to expand...

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Ford C4 and C6 Transmissions: What Are the Differences?

Ford’s C4 and C6 3 speed automatic transmissions are similar in operational characteristics; however, there are still unique differences between the C4 and C6 transmissions. Starting from the year they were produced, their specifications, as well as their applications, these two transmissions are worth comparing side by side.

For instance, while C4 transmissions may have been launched and further designed in different versions between 1964 and 1981, C6 transmissions found application in certain vehicles around 1966 to 1996. The list goes on and on, but there are also similarities between these two and the most obvious is that they are automatic transmissions that change gears automatically unlike manuals.

Nonetheless, let’s take a closer look at the differences between Ford C4 and C6 transmissions.

Differences Between Ford C4 and C6 Transmissions

The Ford C4 and C6 transmission specs show that there are apparent differences between either of these. The peculiar disparity between both include:

• Year of production
• Internal components
• Evolved versions

1. Year of Production

The Ford C4 is also called the Dual-Range Cruise-O-Matic , FMX transmission and it was produced around 1964 and was used until 1981. Specifically, the vehicles that came with a C4 transmission were the Ford Bronco between 1973 to 1977, and the Ford F-series between 1965 to 1981. Here’s what it looks like:

• Ford Bronco (1973–1977)
• Ford Cortina (1974–1982 )
• Ford F-Series (1965–1983)
• Ford Fairlane (1964–1970)
• Ford Fairmont (1978–1983)
• Ford Falcon (1965–1970)
• Ford Granada (1975–1982)
• Ford LTD (1975–1980)

The C6 automatic transmission, on the contrary, was launched by Ford around 1966 and it found use cases until 1996. It was produced at Ford’s Livonia Transmission Plant, Michigan and in the mid-1980s, its production was transferred to a Sharonville Transmission Plant, Ohio.

Also, the C6 transmission was used in high-performance vehicles as well as trucks with more significant engines such as Ford trucks, passenger cars, and Lincoln cars. The C6 was evident in the Ford F-Series between 1967 to 1996 as well as the Ford Bronco between 1978 to 1991. In the latter version, five bell housings were used, and these are:

• Diesel bell housing.
• FE bell housing for the Ford FE family engines.
• The Cleveland bell housing in the 351M, 400, and Ford 385 engine family.
• Windsor bell housing for all Windsor engines, 300 “Big Six” I-6, and the 351 Cleveland.
• Mel 462 used in 1966 to 1968 462 V-8 Lincoln Continental as well as 1968 to 1970 460 V-8 Lincoln Continental.

Ford C4 is a medium-duty transmission judging from its lightweight of 130 lbs dry w/ torque converter and its design with an aluminum case. So, if you’re wondering how heavy is a C4 transmission, then it does not pack so much load at all.

On the other hand, C6 transmission is a heavy-duty transmission that can handle much load. Like its predecessor, it featured a lightweight at 175 lbs dry w/ converter and an aluminum case. It is believed that by today’s standards, a transmission of this nature has a high-level parasitic loss as a result of its weight and size.

3. Internal Components

The C4 can be split into three sections, which are the transmission case, bell housing, and the tail housing.

On the other hand, the C6 identification is the Borg-Warner flexible shift band and the Simpson planetary gearset it features. Within its case are a one-piece casting and a bell housing.

Upon the C6’s launch, it featured 17.4 inches, 7 inches, and 14 inches tailshaft housing lengths for the Lincoln cars, Ford trucks, and Ford passenger cars, respectively.

4. Evolving

A look back at the C4 and C6 transmissions when they were launched shows that there have been other variants since then. An instance is the case of the C4, which featured a 0.788 inch, 24 spline input shaft between 1964 to 1969.

However, upgrades to the C4 in 1979 brought about a 26 spline, 0.839-inch shaft. The same was evident in 1971 when the input shaft was updated to feature 24 splines at the clutch hub and 26 splines on the torque converter side.

5. Fluid Type

Transmission fluid is essential in a car to allow the components to move swiftly while at the same time, ensure there is no overheating or slippage. Accordingly, the kind of transmission fluid the C4 uses is the Type F automatic transmission fluid. In contrast, the transmission fluid supported by the C6 is the Type FA automatic transmission fluid.

6. Modern Use

The contemporary use of the C4 and C6 transmissions are for different purposes. While both are used by hot rod and drag racers enthusiasts, the C6 has gained favoritism when it comes to offroad driving. The C4 is not quite suitable for off-road since it cannot handle as much power as the C6 and as such, it was mostly used in cars and not trucks.

7. Gear Ratios

The C4 gear ratios are:

• First Gear 46:1
• Second Gear 46:1
• Third Gear 00:1
• Reverse Gear 20:1

The C6 Gear ratios are:

• Second 46:1
• Reverse 00:1

Similarities Between the Ford C4 and C6 Transmission

While there is a significant disparity between the C4 and C6 transmission, it’s worth noting that there are slight similarities between both. Some of these include:

• Transmission speed
• Aftermarket support

1. Transmission Speed

The C4 and C6 are both 3-speed automatic transmissions designed by Ford.

2. Simplicity

Both transmissions’ design spoke simplicity and durability. The C6, for instance, was admirable for its simplicity, strength, and reliability. It is even more durable than the C4, which makes it more expensive. As of today, it is still a popular choice for motorsports such as off-road and drag racing vehicles.

3. Upgrades

The C4 and C6 transmissions later had better versions of themselves and what was also noticeable between the duo is that they then featured an overdrive gear.

Thus, if you’re wondering if a C4 transmission has an overdrive, it most certainly does today. The overdriven gears were not present when they have launched as well as a lockup torque converters which are now evident in new transmission for boosting fuel economy.

Similarly, the response to questions like how many gears does a C6 transmission has, would be three. What this boils down to, is earlier versions of these transmissions are entirely different from their later iterations.

The C4 and C6 transmission upon their launch both depended on a Simpson planetary gearset.

5. Aftermarket Support

Given that it has been decades since the launch of the C4 and C6, a car enthusiast can get excellent aftermarket support for both transmissions.What’s also worthy to note, is that they have been revised to handle torque better than their older versions.

How to Tell a C4 From a C6 Transmission

A closer inspection of the C4 and C6 shows a similarity in physical appearance. However, they can be told apart by considering the following:

• Determine the number of bolts securing the transmission’s oil pan to the transmission itself. On the C4, there will be 11 bolts while on a C6, there will be 17.
• Ascertain where the drain plug is situated at the transmission pan. If the plug is at the side of the transmission’s pan, it is the C6 but on the bottom means it’s a C4.
• Determine where the speedometer driver gear is located. If it is on the driver’s side of the extension housing, it is the C6 but a C4, if it is at the rear of the transmission at the point, then driveshaft is connected to the transmission’s back.

Judging from the internal and external components, there are apparent differences between the C4 and C6 transmissions. These differences will enable you to tell a C4 from a C6 transmission despite their similar appearance. There have also been upgrades to either of these two in order to improve their level of performance from what they could offer as at when launched.

Nonetheless, in the present year and beyond, they’ll still be noteworthy as some of the most popular transmission ever designed by Ford Motors. Their performance also has led to the creation of modern automatic transmissions which car fanatics have come greatly to rely upon.

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Merc-O-Matic transmission fluid

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I have owned my 1957 Mercury for 25 years and am the second owner. I must be getting old as I thought I once knew the answer to my question. My original owner's manual calls for Type A transmission fluid. I think Ford changed to Type F in the early 60s. I believe my Merc-O-Matic transmission is basicly a three speed version of the two speed Ford-O-Matic. Does anyone know what currently-made transmission fluild would be best for this car's transmission? thanks  

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Dominick said: It was replaced by Type F. Click to expand...

Use only Type "F" if the transmission has not been overhaul recently. If this trans has been rebuilt, then todays Mecron/Dexron is fine with the newer- modern material clutches... I've found Type "F" fluid at my local Autozone.  

type F doesn't have any abrasives, so it's safe to use in almost any transmission as long as it's only type F. also used as power steering fluid for a LONG time...  

MissInformation said: Are you sure Dominick? I'm not doubting you, but for some reason, " I " thought that Type A ATF changed it's name to Dexron, which became Dexron II, then Dexron IIE, then Dexron III, which was also Mercon, which then became Mercon V, if I recall correctly. Click to expand...

Dominick said: I Think that you are right and I am Wrong. Click to expand...

MissInformation said: I'm not doubting you , but for some reason, " I " thought that Type A ATF changed it's name to Dexron, if I recall correctly. Click to expand...

Dexron is the GM name for the fluid. that's what i've been taught  

This thread is so cluttered, I don't know who is agreeing with whom or what the final agreement is. I recently went to www.castrol.com and did an online chat with their help desk for information regarding Mercon V, and they were very helpful. Just a thought, if someone wants to get a definitive answer.  

Thank You Poppy . I started this mess.  

Dominick said: Thank You Poppy . I started this mess. Click to expand...

Castrol Consumer Relations said: Thank you for contacting Castrol, Type A transmission fluid was introduced in 1949. It then evolved to type A with a suffix. Eventually it became Dexron I, then II, then III and now Domestic Multi-Vehicle ATF. Therefore Castrol Domestic Multi-Vehicle ATF would be applicable to vehicles where Type A is recommended. Click to expand...

• history_of_atf.pdf 2.7 MB Views: 523

i have allways used type f in all ford auto transmissions made before 1980 after 1980 type f in c-4s and c-6s.  

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Moscow Muled

Why do moscow mules come in copper mugs.

Oct 18, 2019

Have you ever wondered why the Moscow Mule cocktail is served in a copper mug? In this post, we answer that question in detail. As it turns out, the answer is partly based on historical events and partly based on the extra "kick" that copper brings to this classic cocktail. Let's dive in!

Introduction

A remarkable cocktail is something you notice from across the room, easily identified by the signature drinking vessel it's served in. Few are more distinct than the burnished copper mug of a Moscow Mule. 

Great cocktails aren't just alcohol and mixers––they should be something more, a full sensory experience from beginning to end. It starts as you observe the precise convergence of ingredients in a golden ratio that blossoms into flavors and aromas of citrus and spicy ginger. It is then delivered into an ice-filled copper mug and garnished with fresh mint and a slice of lime.  Finally, it is presented before you, shiny and cold, compelling you to taste.

The copper mule mug not only tells the story of the drink it contains, but also is essentially functional to the full experience. You might already know that the cone-shaped bowl of a long-stemmed Martini glass was designed so that olives would stand perfectly upright, and the elegantly curvaceous welled Margarita glass was designed to add ample salt, sugar and garnishes.

But why are Moscow Mules served in copper mugs?

Inquiring minds want to know, so this article will sum up the science and history of why traditional Moscow Mules come in copper mugs, and other legit benefits of serving cocktails in pure copper mugs. This includes:

A Brief History of the Moscow Mule

The science of using copper mugs.

• How Copper Mugs Amplify the Taste & Aroma of your Moscow Mule
• The Enhanced Experience of Drinking from a Pure Copper Mug

The origin of this timeless cocktail is the tale of the American Dream. One fateful day in 1941 , three struggling entrepreneurs had a serendipitous meeting at the Cock 'N Bull bar on the Sunset Strip in Hollywood: A bar owner passionate about his unpopular home-brewed ginger beer, a businessman who took a big chance and purchased Smirnoff vodka, and a Russian immigrant with a cache of copper mugs she couldn't seem to sell. That day, the unlikely trio wisely decided to join forces in a bold venture that would not only save their individual businesses, but also create an iconic American cocktail.

Essentially, the Moscow Mule is the most successful marketing campaign in cocktail history. At a time when most Americans had never even heard of vodka, this cocktail introduced them to the traditional Russian alcohol, and established Smirnoff as a necessity in both bars and homes alike.

Thanks to celebrity endorsement, the Moscow Mule soon took the Hollywood cocktail scene by storm, and quickly became the most beloved mixed drink of the 1950's.

It's popularity understandably waned during the Cold War, and it was briefly re-branded as the Smirnoff Mule to distance itself from communism. However, the recent cocktail renaissance of the 21st century has seen the Moscow Mule come kicking back, as evidenced by lists like Esquire's Top 10 Cocktails of 2019 , and Business Insider's 8th Best-selling Cocktail in the World, 2018 .

But the answer to why Moscow Mules are served in copper mugs goes much further than a conveniently clever alliance between co-founders desperate for a big break. The story of the Moscow Mule is both the struggle of the immigrant searching for success, and the flashy lifestyle of the rich and famous.

It boasts a simple recipe , yet a complex flavor profile, encapsulated in a shiny copper mug. And as delicious and refreshing as the Moscow Mule may be, it's the copper mug that makes the cocktail so extraordinary.  Like the drink itself, the pure copper mule mug is a balance of form and functionality.

The most scientific benefit of the copper mug is its ability to regulate temperature. When a drink is served in a copper mug, it gets cold fast––and stays that way.

Copper is a renowned thermal conductor that will keep your beverage frosty in any weather, and is one of the reasons the traditional Moscow Mule has become synonymous with summer. Add a little ice, and the copper chills drinks instantly, and sustains a refreshingly icy rim with every sip.

Because copper is such an excellent conductor, it can keep your cold beverages colder for longer. The downfall of many ill-fated cocktails on a hot summer day is melting ice. Copper mugs stay brisk, and don't disrupt the recipe's ratio, so the simple yet distinct flavors of the Moscow Mule remain strong till the last drop.

Another important feature of the solid copper Moscow Mule mug is the handle. Much like the stem of a wine glass, the copper mug handle keeps the nearly 100 degree body temperature of your hand from impacting the status of your deliciously frosty cocktail.

How Copper Mugs Amplify the Taste and Aroma of Your Moscow Mule

If you want to know what a Moscow Mule tastes like, purists would insist the only way to experience it is in a 100% copper mug. Aside from being a great American tradition, copper mugs offer some unique enhancements to both the flavor and aroma of the Moscow Mule (or almost any finely-crafted cocktail).

Although subjective, most discerning drinkers would agree that copper mugs imbue cocktails with a superior taste. Experts explain that the copper oxidizes the vodka upon contact, thus enhancing the flavor profile and potency of the aromatics.

The intense cold of the copper also creates more stability in the bubbles of the ginger beer carbonation, and balances the tangy citrus of the lime with the earthy spice of the ginger.

For the skeptics out there, the theory of superior taste is easily verifiable. Simply make or order two Moscow Mules––one served in a plastic cup, and one served in a copper mug. Take a moment to inhale deeply, enjoy a big sip, and let your senses be the judge.

The epiphany should take a matter of moments, and you soon realize why a Moscow Mule is best served in a copper mug, and why any other cup or glass is vastly inferior. The difference can be so vivid, you might even consider drinking all your favorite beverages from copper mugs, even hot tea and coffee!

The Enhanced Experience of Drinking From a Pure Copper Mug

Throwing back shots with reckless disregard is a great way to get hammered, but a terrible way to enjoy something delicious. People order cocktails for the full package––observing its creation, revelling in its presentation, and slowly savoring its captivating story and unique taste.

Not only is a cocktail a well-balanced combination of spirits and mixers, it's also about the aesthetic and function of the vessel it's served in. A cocktail should be an object of inspired beauty, presented thoughtfully in a suitable glass or mug and garnished appropriately. It should take time, because it's made by hand.

Although the copper mug has become the symbol of Moscow Mules, it can also pair exquisitely with many other cocktails. Many people seem drawn to the shine and nostalgia of the metal, and Mixologists seem impressed by the scientific properties of the copper mug. Other drinks prominently featured in copper mugs include Dark 'n Stormy, Mescal, Gin & Tonic, and Cuba Libre.

No matter how frosted a beer glass gets, nothing can keep a mixed drink colder than a copper mug. The sensation when one's lips touch the ice-cold rim with every sip is part of the unique experience.

The flavors are heightened, the aromas amplified, and the balance of vodka, lime juice and ginger beer is never watered-down by melting ice. Provided your Moscow Mule is served in a pure copper mug, the last sip should be just as robust and enjoyable as the first.

The benefits of drinking from copper mugs aren't a newfound discovery. In fact, copper has been the preferred metal for drinking vessels for thousands of years.

Gurus in India have been using copper mugs for hundreds of years, and copper goblets called Escra have been found in ancient Irish ruins. Even American settles in 1645 drank exclusively from a massive tankard made of pure copper, known today as the Virginia Tankard .

The Moscow Mule is a classic drink served in a magnificent copper mug because it tells a compelling story, and enhances your consumption experience. It is an unforgettable drink because it's served in a mug that is both more beautiful than and functionally superior to glass.

Three Reasons Moscow Mules Come in Copper Mugs

The reason your Moscow Mule is served in a copper mug is not a fluke. It is not because it's the latest trendy hipster craze. It's not just a marketing ploy (although it definitely started out as one), nor is it a conspiracy by the lobbyists for Big Copper.

Moscow Mules come in copper mugs for three reasons: taste, temperature, and presentation.

The unique experience of drinking a Moscow Mule is a balanced combination of these three elements. It's also the reason this drink is not only the most recognizable, but also consistently one of the most popular drinks in global cocktail culture history.

Taste: The natural properties of the copper oxidize the alcohol, resulting in powerful aromatics and superior flavors. The bubbles of the ginger beer stay fizzy, and perfectly counter the acidity of the fresh lime juice. It's spicy yet refreshing. Simply put, it's delicious!

Temperature: Copper is an ideal thermal conductor, instantly chilling your beverage upon creation, and maintaining a consistently arctic temperature. This prevents the ice from quickly melting and dulling the cocktail ratio, while keeping the rim refreshingly frosty with every sip. The handle also keeps your hot little fingers from fluctuating the temperature with every touch.

Presentation: A glinting copper mug looks authentic and catches the eye. It is vintage, yet modern, and tells a story of creativity, charm and resilience. It is instantly recognizable, and makes for a fine looking beverage. Yes please!

The Bottom Line

The copper mug is iconic, a great American tradition of nearly 80 years, and is the only proper way to drink a Moscow Mule. Cheers!

Did You Enjoy This Article?

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Moscow Mule Copper Mug

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