trek 4100 for sale

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Size / 13", 15.5", 17.5", 19.5", SM

At a glance

Where to buy.

Specifications

• Frame Oversized Alpha™ Aluminum offers the increased durability and strength to handle the most rugged trails.
• Fork InSync Grind 320, 70mm travel
• Wheels Matrix 550 rims; alloy hubs; 14G, black spokes
• Wheel Size 26"
• Crank Suntour XCC-100 48/38/28
• Front Derailleur Shimano C051
• Rear Derailleur Shimano Altus
• Shifters Shimano EF29
• Brakeset w/ levers
• Handlebar High tensile steel, 30mm rise
• Saddle Trek ATB
• Seatpost Alloy micro-adjust
• Stem Alloy AHS, 25Ëš (men’s), 40Ëš (women’s)
• Headset AHS 1-1/8" semi cartridge, sealed

Q: Where to buy a 2003 Trek 4100?

The 2003 Trek 4100 may be purchased directly from Trek .

Q: What size wheels does the 2003 Trek 4100 have?

The 2003 Trek 4100 has 26" wheels.

Q: What size 2003 Trek 4100 should I get?

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Trek 4100 2003 Hardtail

• USER REVIEWS

This bike is a tank, incredibly durable.

Heavy, and 10 years later it's a little old and outdated.

I've owned this bike for about 10 years. Brought it home new from the store. I've replaced the obvious parts like break pads and cables. I've replaced the seat and the pedals and recently the pedal arm. This bike has held up through everything from dragging it through the woods to Porcupine Rim trail and Moab last year. I ride it on a regular basis and I don't take it easy. The fork has been missing an end cap for 4 years and it still rides great. Sure you could have a better, lighter bike with much better suspension, but ten years of heavy use for this price can not be beat.

Strong frame

front suspension is bouncy

Owned since 2008 its been a great bike for getting around town. I don't have to worry about locking it up in the city. I like it a lot and I plan to keep it for years to come.

Good frame worthy of upgrades. The stock components were not terrible for XC either. I just killed the original deraileur in a race with several hard rock strikes. Honestly, I bent it back with pliers and it still worked pretty good! But it wasn't perfect and gave me an excuse to replace it with XT. The original wheels never gave me a problem, but I didn't do big drops either.

Most components. The original pedals were garbage. The stem and handlebars were practically wrought iron. The front fork bounced like a pogo stick up every climb.

This is a follow-up to my review from years ago. Over the 5 years that I have had this bike I upgraded when I found the right parts on sale, and now I have a machine that I am very happy with. The only original components that I need to replace are the cranks and front deraileur, which still work like new. When they die, I will replace with lighter stuff and have a super light, super durable machine, that cost very little. And if I decide to go FS, I'll just swap my parts to the new frame, and I'm good! Thanks Trek for making a durable, affordable bike.

Similar Products Used:

Junky bikes growing up.

Strong Aluminum frame so it's lighter than the 820 and when you push down on the cranks you'll feel the bike respond. Don't let the die-hards fool you, there really is nothing wrong with the stock components on this bike assuming you are of average weight and riding ability (with the exception of the pedals, they really should be of some type of metal). It is easier to upgrade as you're riding ability gets better with components that fit your budget and your objective than it is to buy the higher end 4000 series and be essentialy "stuck" with those components. The saddle is moderately comfortable (if you sit further back on it) and once broken in the shocks have good response (obviously not for 6 foot acid drops!) and the rims and tires will get the job done. As earlier noted: The black and red frame is way cool!!!

Pedals and I wasn't crazy about the stock grips (too small and kinda hard). Other than that nada.

Great Value and quality parts. This is an entry level bike so when you review it, you take that into consideration. A much better value and deal than the Specialized "Hardrock" in my opinion. The frame is going to last as long as any new upgrades you might make.

Frame is thee same one as they use across the range, decent components

Pedals are rubbish, grips not great

I moved from road racing, and having tried far more expensive cycles, I stuck with this - it is a great bike

only far more expensive OR cheap garbage

Light frame, nice red colours, ez fire shifters, matching clr fork, matching clr seat. Got it on sale (no tax) so good deal for me. Feels like this bike is a head turner. Maybe because i bought the red one as opposed to the silver one... It's my first real mtn bike and I'm quite happy with the ride.

The shocks seem to be 'sticky'. It won't come back up if you press it down about an inch. You gotta pull the front of bike off the ground for the shocks to become unstuck.. Will need to ask the bike shop WTF is going on tmrw...

Good quality at that price.. I almost got the Trek 820 instead.. but that was a steel frame and would have been too heavy for me to lift over my head. I have a bike rack on my car, and i have no problems getting it up and down the car. I'm not a very strong guy either... So all the guys who think this bike is to heavy are either girls.. or just weaklings.. no one can be weaker than me!

First bike.....unless you want to count my crappy old Huffy Firemountain POS that i got from Toys r us.. I have that to my sister and she is happy with it....

new to cycling. seemed like a lot for the money when I shopped around

pedals are barely better than nothing. seat was so-so

I rode a dime store 20 years and thought I would get on another bike but decided to try again for health reasons. I thought I got alot for the money compared to the wal-mart specials and have been pleased with it. I did not want to spend a lot of money on a bike if I didn't like riding but have had a great time riding with my wife and her new bike also. After riding it a while i have found some things that were not top notch but I am getting familier with bikes and will upgrade in another year and still keep this one for the trail that goes through my town. We ride mostly on rodes out with the deer and coyotes but ride the trail. I have been pleased with this purchase and what I got with it .You get what you pay for so there will be upgrades in both bike but was a good choice for a first bike

Great light, durable aluminum frame. I like the EZ fire shifters as opposed to gripshift. Great value for the quality Shimano components you get. Good, quality bike for beginners (like myself) who don't want to spend a lot of $ for a bike they don't need (yet.) Nice color and I like the subtle touches like the black spokes, which make the bike look more expensive than it is.

Front InSync fork seems to be OK so far, but I am upgrading to a Judy C which has longer travel and is adjustable. The plastic pedals definitely suck...those will eventually be changed.

Great for beginners who want a quality bike for a low cost.

Old Trek Mountain Track 800.

It is a good price for a decent bike. The frame is pretty good.

The pedals are bad. The Shimano components aren't that good. The fork is a brand I have never heard of, and doesn't seem to do that much except slam down and bottom out when I do about a two and a half foot drop.

This is a good bike for anyone who just rides around town or like in a little nature park. I wouldn't recommend doing any drops over 3 or 4 feet. It's alright, but I'm getting a Jamis xlt 1.0. This is a great all around bike for someone who isn't jumping off cliffs yet.

This bike takes a lot of abuse. I thinks its a great bike for the price. Even though I will be upgrading soon I'm keeping this bike as a backup (And for guests)

Pedals are plastic, InSync shocks are ok but RockShocks would be better.

Great fist mountain bike.

Department store junk.

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• Mountain Bike Review

Friday, December 8, 2006

• Mountain Bike Trek 4100

Thanks for that,very informative

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Blog Archive

• Mountain Bike Trek 7000
• Mountain Bike Trek 7200 Review
• Mountain Bike Trek 4500 Review
• Mountain Bike TREK 820

A note about Trek road bike model numbers: in general, higher model numbers mean higher original prices. This is especially true of models within a particular year.

1993+ RETAIL PRICES FOR TREKS

Suggested retail prices for Treks from 1993 to current are included in the specifications at BikePedia.com . These are listed under "Sugg Retail" for each bike. This database is a great resource.

The Trek Bike Archives , covering 2003 and newer Treks, also contains suggested retail prices.

LISTING OF TREK RETAIL PRICES BY MODEL AND YEAR

Visitors to this site have submitted the following pricing information for various Trek models at the time they were new. The prices are a combination of list prices and selling prices. (If you have any pricing on Trek steel road bike models, please send it along so it can be added here.)

WHAT IS MY USED TREK WORTH? (If "PRICELESS!" is not sufficiently accurate for you.)

eBay.com is the best practical guide. It can tell you what similar bikes recently sold for on eBay. Try search/ advanced search/ check "completed items only". This way, you get the final prices paid. Search for words like "Trek road" with words to exclude "aluminum carbon". You also can search more specifically, such as for "Trek 400". You might need to try for a few weeks to find a bike similar to yours, if it is not a common model.

To compare a local sale to an eBay sale, you should add the cost of shipping to the eBay price. A low value bike can be hard to sell on eBay for top dollar if the bike is to be shipped, as that can add $50 or more to the price.

Craigslist.org can provide some information about current prices. However, these are asking prices, not the actual price for which the bike was sold. One can search by region on the Craigslist.org site. One can search for an item on Craigslist overall (not just by region). Use a search engine (Google or Yahoo etc.) and include "Craigslist" as the first keyword. Follow this by what you are looking for. For example "Craigslist Trek 760".

A very rough measure of current selling price is to multiply the original selling price by a percentage. See the price information above for prices of many Treks when new. For bikes 1976 to about 1983, one can use a range of 40% to 70% for a bike. For bikes from about 1984 to 1990, one can use 33% to 50% of the original selling price. This is for bikes with good to excellent paint and in good to excellent overall condition. Condition is very important. A bike in mint condition will sell well above these ranges, perhaps at or above the original price when new. A bike in poor condition, especially one with significant rust inside and out, has little value.

The percentage for selling frames is higher than for bikes because the frames are less outdated than old components. For frames 1976 to 1983, one can use a range of 40% to 100%. For frames from about 1984 to 1990, one can use 33% to 80% of the original selling price. This is for frames in good to excellent overall condition.

The bike values above are useful only if the potential buyer is a person who appreciates a vintage lightweight or specifically, a vintage Trek. A vintage road bike offered at a garage sale might never be sold, even for a ridiculously low price, because it is unlikely the right buyer will come along. See Selling Suggestions for help in finding the right buyer.

Value can vary by season . Road bikes typically sell for more money and more quickly in the Spring and early Summer. An exception is for local sales in regions that don't have cold or rainy Fall and Winter seasons. Another exception is high end collector bikes, which tend to be season independent.

SMALL VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHT BIKES SELL FOR LESS?

Smaller vintage road frames/bikes often do not sell for as much as a larger version of the same frame. This is true of the 21” (54cm) size and especially the 19” (48cm) frames. Nineteen inch frames/bikes can sell at a discount of up to 40% over their larger brethren. The lesser value is easily demonstrated; for example, by looking at eBay selling prices. (An exception to this general rule is for classic French and Italian bikes, which are highly valued by [older] Japanese collectors.)

Why would this be? Certainly Trek sold bikes of these sizes to willing buyers in the late 1970s and early to mid 1980s at the same price as for larger bikes. There must have been the right number of smaller men, women and kids to buy them. Are Americans that much bigger now? A recent scientific study says no. Certainly most kids, as they grow up and need larger bikes, will pass through these size ranges.

I believe older bikes are bought and kept by people interested in fixing or working on them. These owners need a bit of expertise to get the bikes properly back on the road or keep them on the road (or even just to keep them in a collection). It also takes effort and knowledge to locate replacement parts. New riders tend to buy new bikes and only slowly (if at all) learn how to repair them. For parents to buy a used bike for their (smaller) children, requires that the parents be bike savvy, which eliminates lots of potential small bike users. Bike repair and maintenance generally do not interest women (there are major exceptions to this rule), who are a major fraction of people who would use the smaller bikes.

Even if a person wanted to have a shop maintain their classic Nuovo Record, Super Record, or SunTour Superbe-equipped bike, the shops with that knowledge are rare and the parts cannot be bought from their typical suppliers.

The good news, for those of us built close to the ground, is that we can buy vintage lightweight bikes at favorable prices.

Brochures | Price Lists and Values | Trek History | Trek Timeline | Serial Numbers Component Dates | Gallery | Contact | Buy/Sell Suggestions Refurbish/Upgrade | Bike Resources | Home

*Trek is a trademark of Trek Bicycle Corporation, Waterloo, WI

All copyrights in the TREK brochures, pricelists, owner's manuals and photographs displayed on this website are the sole property of Trek Bicycle Corporation, Waterloo, Wisconsin.

All materials in this site not copyrighted by others are Copyright © 2001-2014 Skip Echert Web Associates , All rights reserved.

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Cool Features

Trek 4100 Mountain Bike

About 18 years ago we bought a pair of Trek 4100 hardtail bikes. The image at the top of this page is taken from the 2013 Trek bikes catalog.

These were our first mountain bikes. Our intent was to get out in the open air and enjoy the trails.

We had no idea how to choose a mountain bike or what to look for, what’s important and what’s not so important.

These were entry level bikes, but they had an alloy frame and a very nice red and black paint scheme. The drivetrain was a basic Shimano 3X7 speed drivetrain, the 26″ tires were 1.95″wide and the front shock had as a 70mm travel.

About two years later I started to upgrade and replace all kind of bits and components on my bike. This first wave included the following: 

• a new rear wheel with a 9 speed Shimano freewheel
• a new 9 speed Shimano Deore drivetrain - shifters, rear derailleur, chain, 11-34 cassette
• a new set of Avid SD5 brake levers

This setup worked very well for me. The bike handled all trails and any ride I attempted. After a while i noticed my wheels are not true anymore, and I realized I need better wheels given my weight and riding style.

A pair of Sun Ringle 36H rims and a set of Shimano Deore wheel brackets became my net set of wheels. More or less bombproof wheels, they stayed true to this day.

About one year later I retired these bikes in favor of a full suspension bike. 

For about 12-13 years my old Trek bike was rarely used. Nevertheless, whenever I upgraded or replaced a component on the bike I used day in day out, the old part found it’s way to the Trek. 

About 2 years ago I finally switched to a 29er. I took the wheels, the RockShox Reba and a Shimano Deore crankset (originally installed on my Genesis touring bike) and installed them on the old Trek. And, I also replaced the v-brakes with the Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes that came off the touring bike as well. I used an A2Z frame adapter to mount the rear caliper, it works very well.

The second bike kept it’s original configuration for many years, only the handlebar was replaced with a new one after a bad crash. Eventually I did upgrade the drivetrain to a 3X9 setup and the wheels to a new set, hand built wheels with fantastic Ambrosio rims.

Today both bikes are fully functional, very well maintained and ready to hit the trails if needed. 

This is how my Trek looks today:

Going back to 2013, this is the first year I joined a bunch of experienced riders in my first bike touring expedition. I did not have a touring bike at the time, so I used my old Trek. A rear panniers rack, slick road tires and a set of bags was all I needed. 

It was a very good experience riding about 500km in 8 days, no major mechanical issues.

To summarize, in my own personal opinion, these Trek frames are fantastic. They are lightweight, climb very well and are very stable going downhill, comfortable riding position and most of all, very reliable. Real fun playing around and upgrading components on these bikes.   

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• Crosscountry
• Rider Notes

2003 Trek 4100

A 26″ aluminum frame hardtail crosscountry bike with modest components and rim brakes.

For This Bike

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A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

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Last updated June 29 Not listed for 2,487 days

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Restoring a MTB- TREK 4100 ALPFA

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I'm looking to restore a Trek 4100 Alpha I found for 30 dollars. It needs work!!! I want to find someone who might have old parts laying around that would fit this bike like good set of shifters and brake components maybe even an upgraded set. And of course for a really cheap price as I haven't been employed for the last 16 months. Our biking season is coming in my neck of the woods. But anyway I don't want a donor bike because I will only eventually try to build that too. Even if you have advice on what to look for I would really appreciate it.  

Attachments

The first question I have is whether you are able to take everything apart and put it back together? A neighbor brought me a bike that had been sitting out in the rain (which always ticks me off) that someone gave him. You may not need to replace everything just to get it rolling again, but you have to be able to take it apart to see what can be cleaned and re-used and what has to be replaced. By apart I mean hubs, bottom bracket, headset, etc. Another problem may be what basic bike tools you own or have access to. You will most likely need cables, tires, tubes, brake pads and a chain, but if you can clean up the rest of it and get is greased/lubed you may be able to get it to work. I don't know if the fork works (rusted?), if it doesn't you may have to pick up a cheap rigid. If it is stuck and won't compress you kinda already have a heavy rigid, but if it collapses at the wrong time while riding it will not be a pleasant experience. John  

Thanks John, My goal is to fix as much of the the things I can on this bike but your right the front shock is now rusted rigid. Is that gas and can it be taken apart without much danger. And also I would like to upgrade the gear shifting components to rapid fire like on my Trek 830. I really never liked the twisting kind of shifter.  

illfixit said: Thanks John, My goal is to fix as much of the the things I can on this bike but your right the front shock is now rusted rigid. Is that gas and can it be taken apart without much danger. And also I would like to upgrade the gear shifting components to rapid fire like on my Trek 830. I really never liked the twisting kind of shifter. Click to expand...

But if you must, ulnevafixit, stop posting here and start reading: Articles For Beginning Cyclists Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog  

So, anyone have any parts. I'm still looking!!!  

Everybody's right, I'm afraid. Those parts are usually thrown away or donated to a bike kitchen. You could try there. Good luck.  

illfixit said: God dammit, I never dreamt this post would rise up so many sensitive feelings about fixing an old bike, holy ****. I'll find another source as to find my parts. And the beginner comments please I've been riding mountains for 40 plus years from New England to AZ and have won several mtb races. I thought there was a bit more backbone in my fellow riders, apparently not. So please ask your mommies for some warm milk and be carful of the pole in the basement as you prepare for your next adventure. And remember don't for get to wear your protection and your sippy cup of water so you don't get hurt and dehydrated. As for you John, disregard this reply and thanks for the direction I don't know how you stand it here!!!Signing off... Click to expand...

That thing could be salvaged, but you aren't going to get that fork apart, and it isn't even worth saving. If that came into my shop, I'd be expecting at the MINIMUM to replace all the cables and the cable housings, perhaps even the chain. Put as little effort into that thing as possible, it is the equivalent of taking an old rusting Pinto that's got weeds growing out of it, and getting the engine to just turn over.  

illfixit said: I'm looking to restore a Trek 4100 Alpha I found for 30 dollars. It needs work!!! Click to expand...

Cables, chain, and a good bit of elbow grease, and I'd ride that thing. I had my Y33 sitting outside for probably a solid 2 years. Just stupid on my part, but it was out there for a long time. Fork paint is badly faded, chain was so badly rusted it would not move. Rear hub very, very rough. Took it apart for warranty on the frame, and I have been able to make almost every part usable again. The wheels are almost perfect, front and rear XT derailleurs are fully usable. Bottom bracket was fine. Cassette cleaned up and looks like new. Deore V brakes are being used on my brother's hardtail, as well as the brake levers. The shifters were broken and junk anyway, so we didn't even mess with them. My RST Mozo Pro fork was in rough shape, but after pulling it apart, removing the old grease and all of the water in it, it works like a nearly new 19 year old fork! The tires were completely destroyed, and I had to hack away the weeds that had encased the entire rear wheel. It was a sad, sad, sad sight.  

I'm sure we will all prosper from the full retelling of his unfortunate implosion, so it is posted for posterity...  

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