trek chainring removal

How to Replace Your Chainrings

Basic removal and installation instructions for 5-bolt chainrings on 3-sprocket systems.

This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install chainrings. Since there are so many different crank and chainring sizing combinations, I’ll stick to the basics and give a general overview of the process based on a 5-bolt, 3-chainring system.

For this job, you’ll typically need a 5mm allen key , a chainring nut wrench , and some waterproof grease . On some bikes, you may find it easier to remove the right crank arm before you begin.

Chainring Removal

Before removing the largest two chainrings you’ll often have to remove the smallest one, which is often threaded directly into your crank arm. Use your allen key to loosen all of the bolts that hold the chainring in place, and then use a marker to make a note of the chainring’s position in relation to the crank before removing it completely. Some chainrings have a bump sticking out that should be lined up with your crank arm.

The largest two rings are usually bolted to each other with a nut and bolt. Here you’ll need to hold the nut in place with the special chainring wrench while you loosen the bolt with your allen key. Once again it’s a good idea to mark the chainring’s position in relation to your crank arm. The two largest outer rings often have a few spacers or washers in between, so be sure to note exactly how they came apart so they can be reinstalled correctly.

While it’s ok to install a new chainring that has a different number of teeth, you’ll want to make sure that your new chainrings have the same side profile as the old ones.

Chainring Installation

Before you reinstall the bolts, apply a thin layer of grease to the threads to keep out moisture. Now you can reassemble all of your chainrings the same way they came apart.

Make sure all of the bolts are finger tight and then begin tightening them evenly in a star pattern. Start by tightening the first bolt, and then every second bolt until you’ve gone all the way around. Repeat this process until all of the bolts are tight. Be careful not to over-tighten. Park Tools recommends 44-88 inch pounds of torque for aluminum bolts, and 70-95 inch pounds for steel bolts.

A bicycle geek since early childhood, spent his twenties as a mechanic in bike shops. His passions include flatland BMX, unicycles, cycle touring, mountain biking and road riding.

Related Links

• Sheldon Brown: Chainrings
• Utah MTB: Chainwheel Repair
• Bicycle Torque Specifications

Recommended Tools

• Shimano TL-FC20 Dustcap Pin Tool
• Park Tool HXS-1.2 Hex Wrench Set
• Shimano TL-FC10 Crank Extractor
• Park Tool PAW-12 Adjustable Wrench
• Park Tool SK-3 Starter Mechanic Tool Kit
• Park Tool PK-3 Professional Tool Kit

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How to Replace the Chainring on Your Bike

Lay down enough miles and your bike’s chainring will need a refresh.

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. How we test gear.

The good news is: It’s easy to replace and the signs that your chainring is past its prime are easy to spot. The teeth will be visibly worn-down to a defined point—by comparison, the teeth on a new chainring are flat at the top— and the chain may stick to it instead of easily releasing while pedaling.

If you’re replacing your chainring(s), it’s a good time to check your cassette and chain for wear, too, and possibly replace those at the same time since they wear down together. (Here’s how to replace your cassette and how to replace your chain .)

Below, we cover how to replace a single or double chainring, how to remove your crank to access it, and which tools you’ll need for the job.

What You’ll Need:

• Hex wrench set or Torx wrench set, depending on chainring bolt style
• Nut wrench tool, depending on chainring bolt style
• Threadlocker, like Loctite
• Bike grease
• New chainring
• Torque tool, preferably, to properly tighten chainring bolts and crank bolt

Tools for Changing a Chainring

Park Tool L-Shaped Torx Compatible Wrench Set

Park Tool Chainring Bolt Wrench for Slotted Nuts

Bondhus L-Shaped Hex Wrench Set

Park Tool Ratcheting Click-Type Torque Wrench

The new chainring.

First, you’ll need to pick up your new chainring(s). The easiest thing to do is to pick up a new version of the chainring that’s on your bike currently, if you can—it’s guaranteed to fit and be compatible with the rest of your drivetrain.

Should I get a different size chainring?

Perhaps you’d like to use this opportunity to make your ride even better by changing the size of your chainring. Chainring size can make a big difference, especially if your bike only runs one, like on singlespeed bikes , track bikes, most modern mountain bikes , and many gravel bikes .

If you find yourself riding in the easiest gears in your cassette most of the time, and often have a hard time turning over the pedals , you should consider a smaller chainring with less ‘teeth.’ If you find yourself riding in the hardest cogs most of the time and frequently spin out, then you might want to consider getting a bigger chainring. Even changing to the next size chainring, up or down, with a difference of just two teeth will feel noticeably different.

If you’d like to get a larger chainring, make sure your front derailleur can accommodate it; review the manufacturer’s specifications, or contact them. Likewise, if you’re going with a different size chainring, bigger or smaller, you’ll likely need to adjust the length of your chain, too.

There are a few other things to keep in mind when getting a different type of chainring, regardless of size. Many chainrings attach to a part called the ‘spider’ which then attaches to (or is integrated into) the crank. (Some manufacturers make direct-mount chainrings that mount directly to the crank arm instead of a spider.) Make sure the new chainring has the correct number of mounting holes, typically four or five, and matches the spider or crank; it will also need to use the correct size bolt circle diameter (BCD).

Regardless, make sure your new chainring is compatible with the rest of your drivetrain.

Removing the Crankset

Depending on your setup, you may be able to remove the chainring(s) without having to remove the crankset. If not, there are many different types of cranksets and, subsequently, ways to remove them. Regardless, first you’ll remove the chain from the chainring, letting it rest on the chainstay.

Self-Extracting

Most cranksets use a crank bolt to secure one or both cranks. If there is a crank bolt on the right crank (with the chainring), remove it counterclockwise with a hex wrench, typically size 8mm. Note, the crank bolt will likely take quite a bit of force and leverage to remove. If there’s a retaining ring over the bolt, keep it in place (and tighten if needed with a pin spanner or larger hex wrench, you want it secure)—you can still remove the bolt, just fit the hex wrench past the ring. There may be a dust cap over the bolt instead, which may or may not need to be removed to access the bolt. If your crank is self-extracting, these are the only steps you’ll need to follow to remove the crank.

Some cranksets only feature a bolt on the left crank. Follow the same instructions above and remove it with a hex wrench. If that’s all that’s needed to remove the left crank, you can now pull out the right crank, which will be attached to the spindle that fits through the bottom bracket. You may need to use a rubber mallet to gently tap the spindle and crank out.

Non-Self-Extracting

If removing the crank bolt does not free either the right or left crank, you have a non-self-extracting setup. You may then need a crank remover —as indicated by internal threading that may now be visible—also called a crank puller, that matches your crank bolt size. Or, once you remove the bolt, you may find either a square taper spindle, an 8-spline spindle, or a 10-spline spindle, and will need the right proprietary tool to remove the crank.

Alternatively, if there are two pinch bolts at the base of the crank, you will need to loosen those first and partly pull out the stop plate from the gap before removing the crank bolt. Some two piece cranks instead have a preload collar that will need to be loosened first.

Lastly, there are other less common variations of cranksets that require different methods of removal, like older Campagnolo cranksets and one-piece cranksets commonly found on older and classic-style bicycles.

Replacing the Chainring

To remove the chainring, you’ll need either a hex wrench (typically size 5mm) or a Torx wrench to remove the bolts—locate the bolts on the back of the chainring and turn counterclockwise to remove. In some crankset styles, the chainring bolts face outside instead and require a tool like a nut wrench tool to hold it in place from behind while you use a hex or Torx wrench to remove it from the front. Again, the bolts may take a bit of force and leverage to remove.

With the chainring(s) off, take this opportunity to wipe down the spider, crank, bolts, and spindle (if attached) with a clean cloth.

To help with correctly positioning the new chainring(s), note the orientation of your old chainring(s) before removing.

To install, line up the bolt holes on the new chainring with those on the crank/spider, position the chain stop pin on the large chainring behind the crank, and make sure any writing is facing out, away from the bike. If you’re also installing a second, smaller chainring, place it on top of the larger chainring, line up the holes and any indicator (orient it behind the crank), with the writing facing in towards the bike. Reinstall the chainring bolts—preferably with threadlocker compound, like Loctite , applied to them—to the recommended torque spec in a star-shaped pattern.

Now, reinstall the crank, carefully ensuring that any splines are correctly lined up. If there is a spindle attached, grease the outside of it and any threads or splines at the end before fitting it through the bottom bracket. Tighten the crank bolt to the recommended torque spec—it will be fairly high, 27 Newton meters or more.

A properly-installed chainring should run smoothly and without creaking . If that isn’t the case, check that all bolts are properly tightened to their recommended torque spec. When in doubt, rely on your local shop mechanic to help you finish the job.

When she’s not out riding her mountain bike, Jessica is an editor for Popular Mechanics . She was previously an editor for Bicycling magazine. 

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How to change chainrings – video

Replace bike chainrings with our easy step-by-step guide

BikeRadar / Immediate Media

Changing a chainring on your road bike or mountain bike is a fairly simply task, but one that needs performing promptly when chainring teeth become worn. You can also swap chainrings to alter gear ratios to give you fewer teeth for easier climbing, or more teeth for on-the-flat time trial efforts.

Check out the video below to take you through changing chainrings.

Before you start, you’ll need to bear in mind your chainset’s bolt circle diameter (BCD) when buying new rings. BCD is usually either 110 or 130mm – or essentially compact or traditional sizing. If your bike came with 50x34T chainrings, it’s almost certainly 110 BCD. If it came with 53x39T chainrings it’ll be 130 BCD. Of course, you can always measure the diameter of your old chainring from bolt hole to bolt hole to check. There’s always an exception and in this case, it’s the four-bolt systems used on the newest 11-speed Shimano groupsets, for which a variety of chainring sizes are available without the worry of different BCDs.

Video: how to change a chainring

Video: How to change chainrings

This video is part of the Park Tool Maintenance Monday series. You can purchase the Park Tools used in the video at a number of dealers across the UK and internationally. For more maintenance videos, subscribe to the BikeRadar YouTube channel.

Tools for the job

• Hex or torx keys
• BB removal tool
• Chaining nut wrench tool

How to replace a chainring

1. remove chainset.

Unless you’re only changing the outer chainring – which it’s often possible to do by un-bolting it and slipping it over the crank arm – you’ll need to start by removing the chainset. Check out our how to replace a crankset video for how to do this.

You will usually have to remove the chainset to replace the chainrings

2. Remove chainring bolts

Some high-end cranksets allow you to remove the chainring bolts with only a hex or torx key, but if your chainset uses traditional bolts, you’ll need either a chainring nut wrench tool to sit in the slotted recess of the chainring nut or another hex key (often 1mm larger than the front) to hold in the rear nut and prevent it turning.

The chainring nut tool keeps the chainring nut secure while screwing or unscrewing the bolt

Secure the nut and unscrew the bolts in an anti-clockwise direction. Remove the bolts, taking care to keep them safe for installation of the new rings. You can now remove the old chainrings to discard or thoroughly clean if you’re only changing one ring to alter ratios.

3. Replace chainrings

When replacing the chainrings, you need to pay attention to their rotational alignment.

The outer (largest) ring usually has a small pin sticking out from its surface. The ring should be installed so that the pin is positioned behind the crank-arm, where it can help avoid a total chain jam in the event of the chain over-shifting and falling between the outer ring and crank.

The pin stops the chain getting stuck between the crank arm and chainring

The inner ring will usually have a small tab on the inside of the outer part of the ring, which also needs to be fitted behind the crank.

The ramped edge of the teeth – which aids shifting – or any branding or other markings should be visible as you place the ring on.

The branding faces outwards – setting the teeth the right way round for smooth shifting

With rings aligned, place each nut into the bolt hole. Securing the nut with chainring nut wrench or hex key, thread the bolt into the nut in a clockwise direction, screwing in just until the bolt feels resistance and the rings are held in place. Repeat for all bolts and then gradually move from bolt to bolt, tightening each bolt a quarter of a turn each time until tight. You can also use a torque wrench for this process, tightening to the recommended torque printed on the bolts.

Re-fit the chainset, making sure to thread the axle through the chain.

Give the bike a pedal and shift through the gears to check all is working correctly. If you’ve changed the size of your outer chainring, you may need to adjust the height of the front derailleur to get the smoothest possible shift – here’s how to set up your front derailleur.

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ISO Bosch Performance CX chainring lock ring tool

• Add to quote

Park Tool CWP-7 and Park Tool BBT-18, 36mm socket. The lock ring is left hand thread, torque to 25-30nm.  

Check your toolbox first. One of them requires the "Bosch specific--which I think is also Rotor/Rohloff-sized--tool, but the other newer ones seem to have smaller lockrings (which are the same size as the old 8-point Truvativ/FSA tools). I don't recall the specified torque being blisteringly tight. If you have a hook spanner (Hozan, for example), it should fit well enough to tighten it in the interim.  

on your first ride? take it to the shop you got it from!  

As a general rule I don't let bike shops touch my bikes. Thanks to everyone that posted in this thread with help in finding the right tool &/or helpful information. =sParty  

I have the same bike and have the same issue I just got the tool in the mail and plan to do the same thing with the thredlocker did it do the trick for you?  

Yes -- worked a charm. I got the right tool and the chainring hasn't backed off since locktiting it. However I did have to retighten my NDS crank recently (I'd locktited that, too.) Just have to keep an eye on these things, I guess. =sParty  

So many fasteners were loose on my 2021 Rail 7, I loosened everything I had a socket for and torqued them to spec. As for the lockring, I torqued it and safety wired it. With the crank arms, I torqued them, and torqued them again after each of the next few rides (without loosening them). All's been well for 600+ miles.  

^^^ Aviation?  

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Bosch Gen 4 - How to change the chainring?

• Thread starter GrahamPaul
• Start date Mar 10, 2020

• Jul 20, 2020

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

You are doing everything right, it is a self extracting system and it is a normal thread. You have just had a monkey torque it up to 10000 nm. Mine was the same, thought I was going to break it while undoing.  

Paul Mac said: You have just had a monkey torque it up to 10000 nm. Mine was the same, thought I was going to break it while undoing. Click to expand...

Active member

Can you borrow an impact driver.....the battery DeWalt ones for example ?  

• Thread starter

Strap the other crank to the chain stay so that you can use both hands on your breaker bar? Saves on skinned knuckles too...  

Like a Boss

sandyman44 said: thanks, that is what I was afraid of. if it was a wheel nut on the car, I'd use a 2 foot breaker bar as the wrench and stand on the end (holding the bonnet or roof for stability). Achieving the same leverage on a bike is a lot more difficult. any tips? need to stop the crank moving as well as increasing the wrench leverage. I tried adapting my 1/2" drive 2 foot breaker bar down to 8mm hex, but ended up with about a 10cm long stack with 4 joins from one adapter to the next, to get the size down, did not feel stable... Click to expand...

E*POWAH Master

sandyman44 said: can anyone give any tips as to how to get the cranks off bosch gen4 ebike? I have a scott genius e-ride 2020. The website spec says the cranks are SRAM X1. they are certainly SRAM. I want to change the chainring (currently has SRAM direct mount boost 34T) to a smaller 30T. I have bought raceface NW 30T, together with FSA 104BCD bosch gen4 boost spider. These look like they will be the right fit. I've also bought the unior chainring locknut tool, which again looks like it will be the right fit. however I am defeated at the first obstacle. Can't get the cranks off. only need to remove the drive side, to change the ring. There is an outer retaining bolt with a 10mm hex . this (re)moves easily. through this there is another bolt with 8mm hex hole. This doesn't move at all. my understanding is that they make a self-extracting pair, I should leave the outer bolt in place, turn the inner one, the crank will self extract. however, inner doesn't move AT ALL, with or without the outer bolt. I have an 8mm hex wrench about the same length as crank, pushed into the inner bolts hole. It fits nicely. I am putting one hand on the end of the crank, other hand on the end of the wrench with the two opposed at 180 degrees horizontally, as much weight as I can get down through them, nothing moves at all. My understanding is that the inner bolt should be a "normal " thread so I am trying to move it anti-clockwise. is there some special secret or is it just about leverage / torque? I've never had a crank that works like this before so I am trying to work it out without breaking it. many crank removal youtube tutorials of course but none of them seem to be for SRAM cranks with an bosch gen4. pics with and without the outer bolt below View attachment 36273 View attachment 36274 Click to expand...

• Jul 21, 2020

HORSPWR said: You're not supposed to remove the outer bolt. You undo the inner bolt and when it backs out it comes up against the outer bolt and then draws the crank off the spindle, it acts like its own puller. You just need more force like a breaker bar with an allen key socket. Click to expand...

sandyman44 said: yep, I was pretty sure that was how it worked, just wanted to see if it was that. as there is no definitive manual for this exact setup that I can find. I've got some 1/2" drive hex bits on order now, so I can connect them directly to my breaker bar, waiting for those to turn up before trying again. I do have a ryobi one+ impact driver so I may also try that, although probably will need to buy a longer hex bit to get it to reach in. despite having multiple tool sets you never seem to have the right one! hadn't thought to try power tools always a bit wary of that on a bike. I have mashed screw heads with this tool before, needs a lot of pressure to stop the bit bouncing out. can't believe need to do this much mechanical engineering just to remove a crank! Click to expand...

• Jul 27, 2020

HORSPWR said: Don't worry, next time it'll probably fall off...when you're riding it ? Click to expand...

sandyman44 said: I did the job with the 2ft breaker bar and a 1/2" hex-end socket set ALLEN KEY / HEX BIT SOCKET SET US PRO TOOLS 1/2" Drive 4mm to 17mm 3383 | eBay . Bike propped in corner against wall so it can't go forwards, right foot on right pedal, full weight, then transfer 1/2 weight to left foot on breaker bar parallel with the chainstay. couple of pumps with the left leg and the torque did the job. chainring locknut was comparatively easy to remove. the unior 1671.2/4 is a perfect fit for that job and way cheaper than the bosch branded tool. got mine from germany, none of the uk shops had one. I now have new ring and spider fitted. I put 50NM on the crank extraction bolt when refitting. now need to remove some links from the chain now as dropping 4T on the ring leaves it too long, not ridden it yet. chainline is about 2 mm further out than the factory sram chainring, which is perhaps due to the racefact ring having these threaded holes with standoff, I may have been able to go with the non-boost version of this spider. View attachment 36749 View attachment 36750 Click to expand...

• Jul 28, 2020

HORSPWR said: That should make chainring changes easier next time! Click to expand...

Like a Boss said: Are folks even bothering about the o-ring, or omitting it altogether? Click to expand...

deertrackdoctor

• Nov 17, 2021

thanks guys this post was helpful . I down graded my drive train to Micro shift advent X .I got 1200km from chain and cassette without paying attention to chain wear . Fot info i managed to Purchase the unior lock ting tool and the e thirteen chainting in the UK from Tredz .I hope that info helps someone in the future . Ive purchased a chain wear guide this time so hope to get more than 1200km out the new cassette by chainging chain at proper time . cant complain as replacement cost of cassette and chain is only £65 .Ive no regrets selling the 12 speed drive train when new and fitting 10 speed micro shift advent x . I can live with new cassette and couoke of chains every 2000km  

• Nov 28, 2021

sandyman44 said: I did the job with the 2ft breaker bar and a 1/2" hex-end socket set ALLEN KEY / HEX BIT SOCKET SET US PRO TOOLS 1/2" Drive 4mm to 17mm 3383 | eBay . Bike propped in corner against wall so it can't go forwards, right foot on right pedal, full weight, then transfer 1/2 weight to left foot on breaker bar parallel with the chainstay. couple of pumps with the left leg and the torque did the job. chainring locknut was comparatively easy to remove. the unior 1671.2/4 is a perfect fit for that job and way cheaper than the bosch branded tool. got mine from germany, none of the uk shops had one. I now have new ring and spider fitted. I put 50NM on the crank extraction bolt when refitting. now need to remove some links from the chain now as dropping 4T on the ring leaves it too long, not ridden it yet. chainline is about 2 mm further out than the factory sram chainring, which is perhaps due to the racefact ring having these threaded holes with standoff, I may have been able to go with the non-boost version of this spider. Click to expand...

Singletrackmind

• Oct 30, 2023

Has anyone who has changed the chainring on a Gen 4 motor noticed an aluminum washer between the motor and the chainring? Had a the new Sram Transmission installed on my bike and lockring used to fasten the front chainring to the motor kept coming loose. Noticed it was barely grabbing any threads and after purchasing a new lockring, took front chainring off before installing and noticed an aluminum washer between the chainring and motor. Removed the washer and now the lockring is held on by more threads and seems to be very secure. Went on a neighborhood ride and lockring has not loosened. Maybe stock chainring requires a washer? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.  

My Whyte e160rs is a boost offset and I don’t think it has an aluminium washer there. There is a thin rubber O ring.  

Depends what chain ring you took off. If it was the sram one, it has a thick washer bonded to it from new. In use the bond breaks and when you take the chain ring off it leaves the washer behind. If it was a e13 chain ring, some come with a washer to make the chain ring a boost fitment.  

• Nov 20, 2023

Singletrackmind said: Has anyone who has changed the chainring on a Gen 4 motor noticed an aluminum washer between the motor and the chainring? Had a the new Sram Transmission installed on my bike and lockring used to fasten the front chainring to the motor kept coming loose. Noticed it was barely grabbing any threads and after purchasing a new lockring, took front chainring off before installing and noticed an aluminum washer between the chainring and motor. Removed the washer and now the lockring is held on by more threads and seems to be very secure. Went on a neighborhood ride and lockring has not loosened. Maybe stock chainring requires a washer? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Click to expand...

• Nov 21, 2023

slorider said: Did you ever figure out what this washer was? I have a Trek Rails and found the same washer. I can barely get the locking ring back on with the washer. Did you just leave the washer off? Click to expand...

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Verve +2 Chain Guard Removal

• Thread starter Howard A
• Start date Sep 11, 2020
• Sep 11, 2020

My 2020 Verve +2 has the factory installed full length chainguard that makes it difficult to access the chain for resetting after a chain slip and for general maintenance. I'd like to replace this with a more typical circular chain guard attached to the outside of the chainring. Has anyone done this modification to their Verve +2? Thanks in advance, Howard  

• Jan 16, 2021

XLC Chain Guard CG A01 Protector, Black | Bikeinn

fooferdoggie

Well-known member.

my smaller chainring bosch I needed a crank arm remover to get out off. https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC...=park+crank+arm+remover&qid=1610845267&sr=8-2  

I ordered that arm remover earlier and plan to use it, but I want to go to a different guard so I can install the chain on a trail if it comes off. The OEM won’t allow you to do that. M  

Mgreene50 said: I ordered that arm remover earlier and plan to use it, but I want to go to a different guard so I can install the chain on a trail if it comes off. The OEM won’t allow you to do that. M Click to expand...

• Jan 17, 2021

Never moved past the concept phase Mike. I checked with my local Trek tech and he told me it wasn't easily doable and would require some hunting around for a new ring and guard that would work. According to him Trek/Bontrager had no such part. Now, he told me this as he was changing out my front chain ring to a modified narrow width (NW) chain ring which has eliminated my chain slippage problems. I have put about 600 miles on the new NW chainring over the past few months on varied terrain and surface conditions with zero chain slips.....therefore I have given up on the guard removal idea. Looks like you may have found one that works, not sure. If you are experiencing frequent chain slips definitely get it into your Trek shop and they'll get you set. Good luck! Howard  

• Jan 18, 2021

I can't add any info to the search for a new chain guard, but I thought I would mention that I removed the chain guard on my Verve+ 2 at 88 miles and have had no problems with pants touching the bare chain (I am now at 1,300+ miles). My chain came off at 88 miles and I had to visit bike shop to have it put back on. When I realized how involved it was to get to chain, I had them leave the guard off. I commute with my bike and so the factory chain guard is simply unacceptable. Since removing the guard, I haven't had a single chain slip, but still I keep the guard off. My bike shop did, however, recently put a spacer on at the chain ring, per Trek's service bulletin, that is supposed to prevent chain problems.  

Bicicleta said: I can't add any info to the search for a new chain guard, but I thought I would mention that I removed the chain guard on my Verve+ 2 at 88 miles and have had no problems with pants touching the bare chain (I am now at 1,300+ miles). My chain came off at 88 miles and I had to visit bike shop to have it put back on. When I realized how involved it was to get to chain, I had them leave the guard off. I commute with my bike and so the factory chain guard is simply unacceptable. Since removing the guard, I haven't had a single chain slip, but still I keep the guard off. My bike shop did, however, recently put a spacer on at the chain ring, per Trek's service bulletin, that is supposed to prevent chain problems. Click to expand...

Hi Mike, The spacer goes between the chain ring and the motor. It looks like a plastic shim. I also read on this forum someone having the chain ring replaced with a different type--more of a mountain-bike style?--but my Trek shop went with the spacer, which Trek emailed me about before it was available. Gabriel  

I did this on my Verve + 3. Replaced it with a ring guard from Amazon. It certainly simplifies chain maintenance. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07N76R2CK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  

Attachments

Latitude said: I did this on my Verve + 3. Replaced it with a ring guard from Amazon. It certainly simplifies chain maintenance. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07N76R2CK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Click to expand...

Mgreene50 said: That’s what I’m looking for, was it difficult to install? How did you remove the OEM by pulling the crank arm off? Thanks Click to expand...

Howard A said: Never moved past the concept phase Mike. I checked with my local Trek tech and he told me it wasn't easily doable and would require some hunting around for a new ring and guard that would work. According to him Trek/Bontrager had no such part. Now, he told me this as he was changing out my front chain ring to a modified narrow width (NW) chain ring which has eliminated my chain slippage problems. I have put about 600 miles on the new NW chainring over the past few months on varied terrain and surface conditions with zero chain slips.....therefore I have given up on the guard removal idea. Looks like you may have found one that works, not sure. If you are experiencing frequent chain slips definitely get it into your Trek shop and they'll get you set. Good luck! Howard Click to expand...

Latitude said: I didn’t pull the crank arm off, just the pedal. The chain guard was then a tight fit to come off around the crank arm, but doable with a slight bit of bending of the hole in the guard, which I never intend to re-use. It was a delicate job to remove the gear screws and put the new supplied, slightly longer ones in from behind... not a lot of finger room. A crank wrench would make the job easier all around, but it went reasonably smoothly. I do prefer the look as well as functionality. The guard is reversible... I just faced the graphics inward. Click to expand...

Mgreene50 said: I have a crank removal wrench so I plan on using it. Is there another guard behind the sprocket next to the motor? Waiting on the guard you spoke of to come in then I will tackle it. Thanks Mike Click to expand...

• Jan 21, 2021

Latitude said: I can’t say if there’s another guard... wasn’t an issue for me. Click to expand...

Mgreene50 said: I got it! pulled the crank arm, removed the old guard and replaced it with a mt bike ring. Click to expand...

• Jan 22, 2021

Park tool bicycle crank arm removal tool CCP-22 sold on Amazon A video on YouTube helped also on how to use it  

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CelebWatch: Shatner Gets “Weird” + Pine Goes To “Moscow” + Nimoy Wraps “Fringe” + Quinto On The “Margin”

| April 12, 2010 | By: Anthony Pascale 19 comments so far

Shatner pitches "Weird or What" in Cannes

We will find in May if William Shatner’s new sitcom Bleep My Dad Says gets picked up, but one Shatner show that is definitely going on the air is Weird or What , a new documentary series Shatner is co-producing an hosting. The show description press release make it sound a bit like Leonard Nimoy’s In Search Of :

in Weird or What? William Shatner will investigate and analyze all that is weird in the world, including everything from paranormal phenomena to weird and wonderful creatures, from medical oddities to mysterious disappearances, and bizarre natural disasters to mystical monster attacks.  

The show has been sold to Discovery Channel in the US and History Channel in Canada. Today Shatner is at the MIP TV convention in Cannes today selling  the show to the world. Variety reports that production company Cineflix has successfully sold the show to "nearly every territory". At the event Shatner described the show:

We’re looking at weird circumstances but we’re presenting them in a light-hearted, jaunty way. We’re not taking ourselves too seriously.

Chris Pine headed to Moscow as Jack Ryan

Last year Chris Pine, the new Kirk, was tapped as the new Jack Ryan, to head up another big Paramount franchise. New details have emerged on this next film based on the Tom Clancy character. Pajiba reports the following story synopsis for the next Jack Ryan film (now with the working title of "Moscow"):

The movie will pick up with the Jack Ryan not long after his stint in the Marines, before he’s joined the CIA, while he’s a Wall Street stock broker, an occupation that will play heavily into the script. In the Clancy novels, Jack Ryan was a successful financial analyst in Baltimore for Merrill Lynch. In the new movie, he will have transplanted to Moscow to continue his financial advising, not for Merill Lynch (which has been absorbed by Bank of America), but for a billionaire employer. It is that billionaire employer who eventually sets Jack Ryan up to take the fall for terrorist plot designed to collapse the U.S. economy. After that, Ryan must race against time to clear his name, reveal the terrorist plot, and save his wife, who has been taken hostage by the billionaire employer.

No word yet on when "Moscow" will go in front of cameras or be released, but probably following Pine’s work on the next Star Trek .

Nimoy’s last day as an actor? + honored as space inspiration

Spock Prime, Leonard Nimoy has recently stated he is ready to back into acting retirement. This would mean his last job as an actor would be reprising his role as William Bell in the season finale  JJ Abrams’ Fringe . And yesterday, Nimoy tweeted " Finishing work on Fringe today. Really good experience. The two parter will air in May." Today he tweeted that his back home. Speaking of Twitter, in just four days TheRealNimoy has picked up almost 33,000 followers.

But Mr. Nimoy is still out and about. On Thursday Leonard is being honored by the Space Foundation at the National Space Symposium in Colorado. Nimoy is being presented with the Douglas S. Morrow Public Outreach award for being an inspiration to people around the world "to explore the wonders of science, space, and technology." And a reminder, next Friday the original Spock is headed to the Vulcan, Alberta, Canada (the official Star Trek capital of Canada) to unveil a bust of himself, and then he is off to the Calgary Entertainment Expo for the weekend.

Quinto on NYSE floor

Finally we come to the new Mr. Spock, Zachary Quinto. The actor is currently in New York  filling out his resume as a producer an actor in Margin Call , a film set in the world of the stock market. Last week Zach tweeted this pic of himself with his Before the Door production company partners.

While he has been in New York, Quinto has been a frequent Twitterer, sending gems like this one last Thursday:

the t-shirt i was wearing today smelled. so i bought a new t-shirt. now it smells. already. why you got to be so smelly t-shirts?

But no worries, Zach was cleaned up all nice by the next night…

Jeez, that photo of Nimoy is fierce! :D

I cant wait to see nimoy and the shat at vegas will miss them when their gone

Shats new show sounds fun–long as they dont make fun of believers cuz that could be bad n sad–

Like a jaunty “In Search Of…”

If I see one more word with quotes around it I’m going to “scream”.

Has Shatner seen Star Trek 11 yet?

How really cares. I don’t. maybe I did at one point. But I don’t now. Let it go. For crying….out….loud

“We’re not taking ourselves too seriously.”

In contrast to some of today’s Hollywood actor wannabees, Shatner can afford to not take himself too seriously. :)

Nimoy looks like an old, and very wise Spock on that photo. Acting retirement surely would be a waste of material…

#6 No, he’s busy having a life. :))

The two shows should be combined to form a show called “Weird Fringe”, and in the first show William Shatner could focus on mysteries of Mr.Spock’s bowl haircut.

Wow whats up with Quinto’s nerdball galsses….First we see a hobo Spock and now dork Spock.

ZQ’s follow up tweet is hilarious!

Nimoy always look cool…kinda badass…you wish Fringe would throw a evil Spock beard on him! Shat looks kinda pudgy…a jolly old type… I was really hoping Mr Nimoy would make it in the new MI movie as Paris…maybe a evil Paris with a beard!

Jack Ryan before Star Trek or after???

From everything I’ve seen of Ben Affleck, he’s pretty impressed with himself. Chris Pine will be 1000 times better than him.

Quinto needs a fashion adviser.

I think Quinto should do a music video as Bilbo Baggins

Alec Baldwin was a great Jack Ryan. Tough act to follow (and I’m a big Ford fan).

16. Yeah! xD lol

Quinto is always dressed stylish, cool and modern- I love it. Zach, just rub some patchouly on yourself and get back to work please!!!!!!!! And Bleep Jack Ryan!